dustysurlycountenance。IaskedhiminWelshifIwasintherightdirectionforWrexham，heansweredinasurlymannerinEnglish，thatIwas。IagainspoketohiminWelsh，makingsomeindifferentobservationontheweather，andheansweredinEnglishyetmoregrufflythanbefore。ForthethirdtimeIspoketohiminWelsh，whereuponlookingatmewithagrinofsavagecontempt，andshowingasetofteethlikethoseofamastiff，hesaid，"How’sthis？whyyouhaven’tawordofEnglish？Aprettyfellowyou，withalongcoatonyourbackandnoEnglishonyourtongue，an’tyouashamedofyourself？Why，hereamIinashortcoat，yetI’dhaveyoutoknowthatIcanspeakEnglishaswellasWelsh，ayeandagooddealbetter。""Allpeoplearenotequallyclebber，"saidI，stillspeakingWelsh。"Clebber，"saidhe，"clebber！whatisclebber？whycan’tyousayclever！Why，Ineversawsuchalow，illiteratefellowinmylife；"andwiththesewordsheturnedawaywitheverymarkofdisdain，andenteredacottagenearathand。
　　"HereIhavehad，"saidItomyself，asIproceededonmyway，"topayfortheover—praisewhichIlatelyreceived。Thefarmerontheothersideofthemountaincalledmeapersonofgreatintelligence，whichIneverpretendedtobe，andnowthiscolliercallsmealow，illiteratefellow，whichIreallydon’tthinkIam。
　　ThereiscertainlyaNemesismixedupwiththeaffairsofthisworld；everygoodthingwhichyouget，beyondwhatisstrictlyyourdue，issuretoberequiredfromyouwithavengeance。Alittleover—praisebyagreatdealofunderrating—agleamofgoodfortunebyanightofmisery。"
　　InowsawWrexhamChurchataboutthedistanceofthreemiles，andpresentlyenteredalanewhichledgentlydownfromthehills，whichwerethesameheightsIhadseenonmyrighthand，somemonthspreviously，onmywayfromWrexhamtoRhiwabon。Thescenerynowbecameverypretty—hedge—rowswereoneitherside，aluxurianceoftreesandplentyofgreenfields。Ireachedthebottomofthelane，beyondwhichIsawastrange—lookinghouseuponaslopeontherighthand。Itwasverylarge，ruinous，andseeminglydeserted。Alittlebeyonditwasafarm—house，connectedwithwhichwasalongrowoffarmingbuildingsalongtheroad—side。
　　Seeingawomanseatedknittingatthedoorofalittlecottage，I
　　askedherinEnglishthenameoftheold，ruinoushouse？
　　"CadoganHall，sir，"shereplied。
　　"Andwhomdoesitbelongto？"saidI。
　　"Idon’tknowexactly，"repliedthewoman，"butMrMorrisatthefarmholdsit，andstowshisthingsinit。"
　　"Canyoutellmeanythingaboutit？"saidI。
　　"Nothingfarther，"saidthewoman，"thanthatitissaidtobehaunted，andtohavebeenabarrackmanyyearsago。"
　　"CanyouspeakWelsh？"saidI。
　　"No，"saidthewoman，"IareWelshbuthavenoWelshlanguage。"
　　LeavingthewomanIputonmybestspeedandinabouthalfanhourreachedWrexham。
　　ThefirstthingIdidonmyarrivalwastogotothebookshopandpurchasetheWelshMethodisticbook。Itcostmesevenshillings，andwasathick，bulkyoctavowithacut—and—come—againexpressionaboutit，whichwasanythingbutdisagreeabletome，forIhateyourflimsypublications。Theeveningwasnowbeginningtosetin，andfeelingsomewhathungryIhurriedofftotheWynstayArmsthroughstreetscrowdedwithmarketpeople。OnarrivingattheinnIenteredthegrandroomandordereddinner。Thewaiters，observingmesplashedwithmudfromheadtofoot，lookedatmedubiously；seeing，however，therespectable—lookingvolumewhichI
　　boreinmyhand—noneofyourrailroadstuff—theybecamemoreassured，andIpresentlyheardonesaytotheother，"It’sallright—that’sMrSo—and—So，thegreatBaptistpreacher。Hehasbeenpreachingamongstthehills—don’tyouseehisBible？"
　　SeatingmyselfatatableIinspectedthevolume。AndhereperhapsthereaderexpectsthatIshallregalehimwithananalysisoftheMethodisticalvolumeatleastaslongasthatofthelifeofTomO’
　　theDingle。Inthatcase，however，hewillbedisappointed；allthatIshallatpresentsayofitis，thatitcontainedahistoryofMethodisminWales，withthelivesoftheprincipalWelshMethodists。Thatitwasfraughtwithcuriousandoriginalmatter，waswritteninastraightforward，Methodicalstyle，andthatIhavenodoubtitwillsomedayorotherbeextensivelyknownandhighlyprized。
　　AfterdinnerIcalledforhalfapintofwine。WhilstIwastriflingoverit，acommercialtravellerenteredintoconversationwithme。AftersometimeheaskedmeifIwasgoingfurtherthatnight。
　　"ToLlangollen，"saidI。
　　"Bytheteno’clocktrain？"saidhe。
　　"No，"Ireplied，"I’mgoingonfoot。"
　　"Onfoot！"saidhe；"Iwouldnotgoonfoottherethisnightforfiftypounds。"
　　"Whynot？"saidI。
　　"Forfearofbeingknockeddownbythecolliers，whowillbealloutanddrunk。"
　　"Ifnotmorethantwoattackme，"saidI，"Ishan’tmuchmind。
　　WiththisbookIamsureIcanknockdownone，andIthinkIcanfindplayfortheotherwithmyfists。"
　　Thecommercialtravellerlookedatme。"AstrangekindofBaptistminister，"IthoughtIheardhimsay。
　　CHAPTERLXII
　　RhiwabonRoad—ThePublic—houseKeeper—NoWelsh—TheWrongRoad—TheGoodWife。
　　IPAIDmyreckoningandstarted。Thenightwasnowrapidlyclosingin。Ipassedthetoll—gateandhurriedalongtheRhiwabonroad，overtakingcompaniesofWelshgoinghome，amongstwhomweremanyindividuals，whom，fromtheirthickandconfusedspeech，aswellasfromtheirstaggeringgait，Ijudgedtobeintoxicated。AsI
　　passedaredpublic—houseonmyrighthand，atthedoorofwhichstoodseveralcarts，ascreamofWelshissuedfromit。
　　"LetanySaxon，"saidI，"whoisfondoffightingandwishesforabloodynosegointhere。"
　　ComingtothesmallvillageaboutamilefromRhiwabon，Ifeltthirsty，andseeingapublic—house，inwhichallseemedtobequiet，Iwentin。Athick—setmanwithapipeinhismouthsatinthetap—room，andalsoawoman。
　　"Whereisthelandlord？"saidI。
　　"Iamthelandlord，"saidtheman，huskily。"Whatdoyouwant？"
　　"Apintofale，"saidI。
　　Themangotupandwithhispipeinhismouthwentstaggeringoutoftheroom。Inaboutaminutehereturnedholdingamuginhishand，whichheputdownonatablebeforeme，spillingnoslightquantityoftheliquorashedidso。Iputdownthree—penceonthetable。Hetookthemoneyupslowlypiecebypiece，lookedatitandappearedtoconsider，thentakingthepipeoutofhismouthhedashedittosevenpiecesagainstthetable，thenstaggeredoutoftheroomintothepassage，andfromthenceapparentlyoutofthehouse。Itastedthealewhichwasverygood，thenturningtothewomanwhoseemedaboutthree—and—twentyandwasrathergood—
　　looking，IspoketoherinWelsh。
　　"IhavenoWelsh，sir，"saidshe。
　　"Howisthat？"saidI；"thisvillageisIthinkintheWelshery。"
　　"Itis，"saidshe，"butIamfromShropshire。"
　　"Areyouthemistressofthehouse？"saidI。
　　"No，"saidshe，"Iammarriedtoacollier；"thengettingupshesaid，"Imustgoandseeaftermyhusband。"
　　"Won’tyoutakeaglassofalefirst？"saidI，offeringtofillaglasswhichstoodonthetable。
　　"No，"saidshe；"Iamtheworstintheworldforaglassofale；"
　　andwithoutsayinganythingmoreshedeparted。
　　"Iwonderwhetheryourhusbandisanythinglikeyouwithrespecttoaglassofale，"saidItomyself；thenfinishingmyaleIgotupandleftthehouse，whichwhenIdepartedappearedtobeentirelydeserted。
　　Itwasnowquitenight，anditwouldhavebeenpitchy—darkbutfortheglareofforges。Therewasanimmenseglaretothesouth—west，whichIconceivedproceededfromthoseofCefnMawr。Itlightedupthesouth—westernsky；thenthereweretwootherglaresnearertome，seeminglydividedbyalumpofsomething，perhapsagroveoftrees。
　　WalkingveryfastIsoonovertookaman。Iknewhimatoncebyhisstaggeringgait。
　　"Ah，landlord！"saidI；"whitherbound？"
　　"ToRhiwabon，"saidhe，huskily，"forapint。"
　　"IsthealesogoodatRhiwabon，"saidI，"thatyouleavehomeforit？"
　　"No，"saidhe，rathershortly，"there’snotaglassofgoodaleinRhiwabon。"
　　"Thenwhydoyougothither？"saidI。
　　"Becauseapintofbadliquorabroadisbetterthanaquartofgoodathome，"saidthelandlord，reelingagainstthehedge。
　　"Therearemanyinahigherstationthanyouwhoactuponthatprinciple，"thoughtItomyselfasIpassedon。
　　IsoonreachedRhiwabon。Therewasaprodigiousnoiseinthepublic—housesasIpassedthroughit。"Collierscarousing，"saidI。"Well，Ishallnotgoamongstthemtopreachtemperance，thoughperhapsinstrictdutyIought。"Attheendofthetown，insteadoftakingtheroadontheleftsideofthechurch，Itookthatontheright。ItwasnottillIhadproceedednearlyamilethatI
　　begantobeapprehensivethatIhadmistakentheway。HearingsomepeoplecomingtowardsmeontheroadIwaitedtilltheycameup；
　　theyprovedtobeamanandawoman。OnmyinquiringwhetherIwasrightforLlangollen，theformertoldmethatIwasnot，andinordertogetthereitwasnecessarythatIshouldreturntoRhiwabon。Iinstantlyturnedround。Abouthalf—waybackImetamanwhoaskedmeinEnglishwhereIwashurryingto。IsaidtoRhiwabon，inordertogettoLlangollen。"Well，then，"saidhe，"youneednotreturntoRhiwabon—yonderisashortcutacrossthefields，"andhepointedtoagate。Ithankedhim，andsaidIwouldgobyit；beforeleavinghimIaskedtowhatplacetheroadledwhichIhadbeenfollowing。
　　"ToPentreCastren，"hereplied。Istruckacrossthefieldsandshouldprobablyhavetumbledhalf—a—dozentimesoverpalesandthelike，butforthelightoftheCefnfurnacesbeforemewhichcasttheirredglowuponmypath。IdebauchedupontheLlangollenroadneartothetramwayleadingtothecollieries。Twoenormoussheetsofflameshotuphighintotheairfromovens，illuminingtwospectralchimneysashighassteeples，alsosmokybuildings，andgrimyfiguresmovingabout。Therewasaclangingofengines，anoiseofshovelsandafallingofcoalstrulyhorrible。TheglarewassogreatthatIcoulddistinctlyseetheminutestlinesuponmyhand。AdvancingalongthetramwayIobtainedanearerviewofthehellishbuildings，thechimneys，andthedemoniacfigures。ItwasjustsuchasceneasoneofthosedescribedbyEllisWynninhisVisionofHell。FeelingmyeyesscorchingIturnedaway，andproceededtowardsLlangollen，sometimesonthemuddyroad，sometimesonthedangerouscauseway。ForthreemilesatleastI
　　metnobody。NearLlangollen，asIwaswalkingonthecauseway，threemencameswiftlytowardsme。Ikeptthehedge，whichwasmyright；thetwofirstbrushedroughlypastme，thethirdcamefulluponmeandwastumbledintotheroad。Therewasalaughfromthetwofirstandaloudcursefromthelastashesprawledinthemire。Imerelysaid"NosDa’ki，"andpassedon，andinaboutaquarterofanhourreachedhome，whereIfoundmywifeawaitingmealone，Henriettahavinggonetobedbeingslightlyindisposed。Mywifereceivedmewithacheerfulsmile。IlookedatherandthegoodwifeoftheTriadcametomymind。
　　"Sheismodest，voidofdeceit，andobedient。
　　"Pureofconscience，graciousoftongue，andtruetoherhusband。
　　"Herheartnotproud，hermannersaffable，andherbosomfullofcompassionforthepoor。
　　"Labouringtobetidy，skilfulofhand，andfondofprayingtoGod。
　　"Herconversationamiable，herdressdecent，andherhouseorderly。
　　"Quickofhand，quickofeye，andquickofunderstanding。
　　"Herpersonshapely，hermannersagreeable，andherheartinnocent。
　　"Herfacebenignant，herheadintelligent，andprovident。
　　"Neighbourly，gentle，andofaliberalwayofthinking。
　　"Ableindirecting，providingwhatiswanting，andagoodmothertoherchildren。
　　"Lovingherhusband，lovingpeace，andlovingGod。
　　"Happytheman，"addstheTriad，"whopossessessuchawife。"Verytrue，OTriad，alwaysprovidedheisinsomedegreeworthyofher；
　　butmanyamanleavesaninnocentwifeathomeforanimpureJezebelabroad，evenasmanyaoneprefersapintofhog’swashabroadtoatankardofgenerousliquorathome。
　　CHAPTERLXIII
　　PreparationsforDeparture—Catprovidedfor—APleasantParty—
　　LastNightatLlangollen。
　　IWASawakenedearlyontheSundaymorningbythehowlingofwind。
　　Therewasaconsiderablestormthroughouttheday，butunaccompaniedbyrain。Iwenttochurchbothinthemorningandtheevening。Thenextdaytherewasagreatdealofrain。ItwasnowthelatterendofOctober；winterwascomingon，andmywifeanddaughterwereanxioustoreturnhome。AftersomeconsultationitwasagreedthattheyshoulddepartforLondon，andthatIshouldjointhemthereaftermakingapedestriantourinSouthWales。
　　IshouldhavebeenlothtoquitWaleswithoutvisitingtheDeheubarthorSouthernRegion，alanddifferingwidely，asIhadheard，bothinlanguageandcustomsfromGwyneddortheNorthern，alandwhichhadgivenbirthtotheillustriousAbGwilym，andwherethegreatRycefamilyhadflourished，whichverymuchdistinguisheditselfintheWarsoftheRoses—amemberofwhichRyceapThomasplacedHenrytheSeventhonthethroneofBritain—afamilyofroyalextraction，andwhichafterthedeathofRoderictheGreatforalongtimeenjoyedthesovereigntyofthesouth。
　　Wesetaboutmakingthenecessarypreparationsforourrespectivejourneys。Thoseformineweresoonmade。Iboughtasmallleathersatchelwithalockandkey，inwhichIplacedawhitelinenshirt，apairofworstedstockings，arazorandaprayer—book。AlongwithitIboughtaleatherstrapwithwhichtoslingitovermyshoulder：Igotmybootsnewsoled，myumbrella，whichwasratherdilapidated，mended；puttwentysovereignsintomypurse，andthensaidIamallrightfortheDeheubarth。
　　AsmywifeanddaughterrequiredmuchmoretimeinmakingpreparationsfortheirjourneythanIformine，andasIshouldonlybeintheirwaywhilsttheywereemployed，itwasdeterminedthatIshoulddepartonmyexpeditiononThursday，andthattheyshouldremainatLlangollentilltheSaturday。
　　Wewereatfirstinsomeperplexitywithrespecttothedisposaloftheecclesiasticalcat；itwouldofcoursenotdotoleaveitinthegardentothetendermerciesoftheCalvinisticMethodistsoftheneighbourhood，moreespeciallythoseoftheflannelmanufactory，andmywifeanddaughtercouldhardlycarryitwiththem。Atlengthwethoughtofapplyingtoayoungwomanofsoundchurchprinciples，whowaslatelymarriedandlivedoverthewateronthewaytotherailroadstation，withwhomwewereslightlyacquainted，totakechargeoftheanimal，andsheonthefirstintimationofourwish，willinglyaccededtoit。Sowithherpoorpusswasleftalongwithatrifleforitsmilk—money，andwithher，aswesubsequentlylearned，itcontinuedinpeaceandcomforttillonemorningitsprangsuddenlyfromthehearthintotheair，gaveamew，anddied。Somuchfortheecclesiasticalcat！
　　ThemorningofTuesdaywasratherfine，andMrEbenezerE—，whohadheardofourintendeddeparture，cametoinviteustospendtheeveningattheVicarage。HisfatherhadleftLlangollenthedaybeforeforChester，whereheexpectedtobedetainedsomedays。I
　　toldhimweshouldbemosthappytocome。Hethenaskedmetotakeawalk。Iagreedwithpleasure，andwesetout，intendingtogotoLlansilioatthewesternendofthevalleyandlookatthechurch。
　　Thechurchwasanancientbuilding。Ithadnospire，buthadthelittleerectiononitsroof，sousualtoWelshchurches，forholdingabell。
　　InthechurchyardisatombinwhichanoldsquireofthenameofJoneswasburiedaboutthemiddleofthelastcentury。Thereisatraditionaboutthissquireandtombtothefollowingeffect。
　　Afterthesquire’sdeaththerewasalawsuitabouthisproperty，inconsequenceofnowillhavingbeenfound。Itwassaidthathiswillhadbeenburiedwithhiminthetomb，whichaftersometimewasopened，butwithwhatsuccessthetraditionsayethnot。
　　IntheeveningwewenttotheVicarage。BesidesthefamilyandourselvestherewasMrR—andoneortwomore。Wehadaverypleasantparty；andasmostofthosepresentwishedtohearsomethingconnectedwithSpain，Italkedmuchaboutthatcountry，sangsongsofGermania，andrelatedinanabridgedformLopedeVega’sghoststory，whichisdecidedlythebestghoststoryintheworld。
　　IntheafternoonofWednesdayIwentandtookleaveofcertainfriendsinthetown；amongstothersofoldMrJones。OnmytellinghimthatIwasabouttoleaveLlangollen，heexpressedconsiderableregret，butsaidthatitwasnaturalformetowishtoreturntomynativecountry。ItoldhimthatbeforereturningtoEnglandI
　　intendedtomakeapedestriantourinSouthWales。Hesaidthatheshoulddiewithoutseeingthesouth；thathehadhadseveralopportunitiesofvisitingitwhenhewasyoung，whichhehadneglected，andthathewasnowtoooldtowanderfarfromhome。HethenaskedmewhichroadIintendedtotake。ItoldhimthatI
　　intendedtostrikeacrosstheBerwyntoLlanRhyadr，thenvisitSycharth，oncetheseatofOwainGlendower，lyingtotheeastofLlanRhyadr，thenreturntothatplace，andafterseeingthecelebratedcataractacrossthemountainstoBala—whenceIshouldproceedduesouth。IthenaskedhimwhetherhehadeverseenSycharthandtheRhyadr；hetoldmethathehadnevervisitedSycharth，buthadseentheRhyadrmorethanonce。HethensmiledandsaidthattherewasaludicrousanecdoteconnectedwiththeRhyadr，whichhewouldrelatetome。"AtravelleroncewenttoseetheRhyadr，andwhilstgazingatitacalfwhichhadfallenintothestreamabove，whilstgrazingupontherocks，cametumblingdownthecataract。’Wonderful！’saidthetraveller，andgoingawayreportedthatitwasnotonlyafallofwater，butofcalves，andwasverymuchdisappointed，onvisitingthewaterfallonanotheroccasion，toseenocalfcometumblingdown。"Itookleaveofthekindoldgentlemanwithregret，neverexpectingtoseehimagain，ashewasinhiseighty—fourthyear—hewasatrulyexcellentcharacter，andmightberankedamongstthevenerableornamentsofhisnativeplace。
　　Abouthalf—pasteighto’clockatnightJohnJonescametobidmefarewell。Ibadehimsitdown，andsentforapintofaletoregalehimwith。Notwithstandingtheale，hewasverymelancholyatthethoughtthatIwasabouttoleaveLlangollen，probablynevertoreturn。ToenlivenhimIgavehimanaccountofmylateexpeditiontoWrexham，whichmadehimsmilemorethanonce。WhenI
　　hadconcludedheaskedmewhetherIknewthemeaningofthewordWrexham：ItoldhimIbelievedIdid，andgavehimthederivationwhichthereaderwillfindinanearlychapterofthiswork。Hetoldmethatwithallduesubmission，hethoughthecouldgivemeabetter，whichhehadheardfromaverycleverman，gwrdeallusiawn，wholivedabouttwomilesfromLlangollenontheCorwenroad。
　　IntheoldtimeamanofthenameofSamkeptagwestfa，orinn，attheplacewhereWrexhamflowstands；whenhediedheleftittohiswife，whokeptitafterhim，onwhichaccountthehousewasfirstcalledTywraigSam，thehouseofSam’swife，andthenforshortnessWraigSam，andatownarisingaboutitbydegrees，thetowntoowascalledWraigSam，whichtheSaxonscorruptedintoWrexham。
　　IwasmuchdivertedwiththisWelshderivationofWrexham，whichI
　　didnotattempttocontrovert。AfterwehadhadsomefurtherdiscourseJohnJonesgotup，shookmebythehand，gaveasigh，wishedmea"taithhyfryd，"anddeparted。ThusterminatedmylastdayatLlangollen。
　　CHAPTERLXIV
　　DepartureforSouthWales—Tregeiriog—PleasingScene—TryingtoRead—GarmonandLupus—TheCrackedVoice—EffectofaCompliment—LlanRhyadr。
　　THEmorningofthe21stofOctoberwasfineandcold；therewasarimefrostontheground。Atabouteleveno’clockIstartedonmyjourneyforSouthWales，intendingthatmyfirststageshouldbeLlanRhyadr。MywifeanddaughteraccompaniedmeasfarasPlasNewydd。AswepassedthroughthetownIshookhandswithhonestA—
　　，whomIsawstandingatthedoorofashop，withakindofSpanishhatonhishead，andalsowithmyvenerablefriendoldMrJones，whomIencounteredclosebesidehisowndomicile。AtthePlasNewyddItookanaffectionatefarewellofmytwolovedones，andproceededtoascendtheBerwyn。NearthetopIturnedroundtotakeafinallookatthespotwhereIhadlatelypassedmanyahappyhour。TherelayLlangollenfarbelowme，withitschimneysplacidlysmoking，itsprettychurchrisinginitscentre，itsblueriverdividingitintotwonearlyequalparts，andthemightyhillofBrennusoverhangingitfromthenorth。
　　Isighed，andrepeatingEinionDu’sverse"TangnefeddiLlangollen！"
　　turnedaway。
　　Iwentoverthetopofthehillandthenbegantodescenditssouthernside，obtainingadistantviewoftheplainsofShropshireontheeast。Isoonreachedthebottomofthehill，passedthroughLlansanfraid，andthreadingthevaleoftheCeiriogatlengthfoundmyselfatPontyMeibioninfrontofthehouseofHuwMorris，orratherofthatwhichisbuiltonthesiteofthedwellingofthepoet。IstoppedandremainedbeforethehousethinkingofthemightyHuw，tillthedooropened，andoutcamethedark—featuredman，thepoet’sdescendant，whomIsawwhenvisitingtheplaceincompanywithhonestJohnJones—hehadnowaspadeinhishandandwasdoubtlessgoingtohislabour。AsIknewhimtobeofarathersullenunsocialdisposition，Isaidnothingtohim，butproceededonmyway。AsIadvancedthevalleywidened，thehillsonthewestrecedingtosomedistancefromtheriver。CametoTregeiriogasmallvillage，whichtakesitsnamefromthebrook；TregeiriogsignifyingthehamletorvillageontheCeiriog。Seeingabridgewhichcrossedtherivuletataslightdistancefromtheroad，alittlebeyondthevillage，Iturnedasidetolookatit。ThepropercourseoftheCeiriogisfromsouthtonorth；whereitiscrossedbythebridge，however，itrunsfromwesttoeast，returningtoitsusualcourse，alittlewaybelowthebridge。Thebridgewassmallandpresentednothingremarkableinitself：I
　　obtained，however，asIlookedoveritsparapettowardsthewestaviewofascene，notofwildgrandeur，butofsomethingwhichI
　　likebetter，whichrichlycompensatedmefortheslighttroubleI
　　hadtakeninsteppingasidetovisitthelittlebridge。Aboutahundredyardsdistantwasasmallwater—mill，builtovertherivulet，thewheelgoingslowly，slowlyround；largequantitiesofpigs，thegeneralityofthembrindled，wereeitherbrowsingonthebanksorlyingclosetothesideshalfimmersedinthewater；oneimmensewhitehog，themonarchseeminglyoftheherd，wasstandinginthemiddleofthecurrent。SuchwasthescenewhichIsawfromthebridge，asceneofquietrurallifewellsuitedtothebrushesoftwoorthreeoftheoldDutchpainters，ortothoseofmenscarcelyinferiortothemintheirownstyle，Gainsborough，Moreland，andCrome。Mymindforthelasthalf—hourhadbeeninahighlyexcitedstate；IhadbeenrepeatingversesofoldHuwMorris，broughttomyrecollectionbythesightofhisdwelling—
　　place；theywererantingroaringverses，againsttheRoundheads。I
　　admiredthevigourbutdislikedtheprincipleswhichtheydisplayed；andadmirationontheonehandanddisapprovalontheother，bredacommotioninmymindlikethatraisedontheseawhentiderunsonewayandwindblowsanother。Thequietscenefromthebridge，however，producedasedativeeffectonmymind，andwhenI
　　resumedmyjourneyIhadforgottenHuw，hisverses，andallaboutRoundheadsandCavaliers。
　　IreachedLlanarmon，anothersmallvillage，situatedinavalleythroughwhichtheCeiriogorariververysimilartoitflows。Itishalf—waybetweenLlangollenandLlanRhyadr，beingtenmilesfromeach。Iwenttoasmallinnorpublic—house，satdownandcalledforale。Awaggonerwasseatedatalargetablewithanewspaperbeforehimonwhichhewasintentlystaring。
　　"Whatnews？"saidIinEnglish。
　　"IwishIcouldtellyou，"saidheinverybrokenEnglish，"butI
　　cannotread。"
　　"Thenwhyareyoulookingatthepaper？"saidI。
　　"Because，"saidhe，"bylookingatthelettersIhopeintimetomakethemout。"
　　"Youmaylookatthem，"saidI，"forfiftyyearswithoutbeingabletomakeoutone。Youshouldgotoaneveningschool。"
　　"Iamtooold，"saidhe，"todosonow；ifIdidthechildrenwouldlaughatme。"
　　"Nevermindtheirlaughingatyou，"saidI，"providedyoulearntoread；letthemlaughwhowin！"
　　"Yougivegoodadvice，mester，"saidhe，"IthinkIshallfollowit。"
　　"Letmelookatthepaper，"saidI。
　　Hehandedittome。ItwasaWelshpaper，andfullofdismalaccountsfromtheseatofwar。
　　"Whatnews，mester？"saidthewaggoner。
　　"Nothingbutbad，"saidI；"theRussiansarebeatingusandtheFrenchtoo。"
　　"IftheRusiaidbeatus，"saidthewaggoner，"itisbecausetheFrancodarewithus。Weshouldhavegonealone。"
　　"Perhapsyouareright，"saidI；"atanyratewecouldnothavefaredworsethanwearefaringnow。"
　　IpresentlypaidforwhatIhadhad，inquiredthewaytoLlanRhyadr，anddeparted。
　　ThevillageofLlanarmontakesitsnamefromitschurch，whichisdedicatedtoGarmon，anArmoricanbishop，whowithanothercalledLupuscameoverintoBritaininordertopreachagainsttheheresyofPelagius。HeandhiscolleagueresidedforsometimeinFlintshire，andwhilstthereenabledinaremarkablemannertheBritonstoachieveavictoryoverthosemysteriouspeoplethePicts，whowereravagingthecountryfarandwide。HearingthattheenemywereadvancingtowardsMold，thetwobishopsgatheredtogetheranumberoftheBritons，andplacedtheminambushinadarkvalleythroughwhichitwasnecessaryforthePictstopassinordertoreachMold，strictlyenjoiningthemtoremainquiettillalltheirenemiesshouldhaveenteredthevalleyandthendowhatevertheyshouldseethem，thetwobishops，do。ThePictsarrived，andwhentheywereabouthalf—waythroughthevalleythetwobishopssteppedforwardfromathicketandbegancryingaloud，"Alleluia！"TheBritonsfollowedtheirexample，andthewoodedvalleyresoundedwithcriesof"Alleluia！Alleluia！"TheshoutsandtheunexpectedappearanceofthousandsofmencausedsuchterrortothePictsthattheytooktoflightinthegreatestconfusion；hundredsweretrampledtodeathbytheircompanions，andnotafewweredrownedintheriverAlan（8）whichrunsthroughthevalley。
　　ThereareseveralchurchesdedicatedtoGarmoninWales，butwhetherthereareanydedicatedtoLupusIamunabletosay。AfterleavingLlanarmonIfoundmyselfamongstlumpyhillsthroughwhichtheroadledinthedirectionofthesouth。ArrivingwhereseveralroadsmetIfollowedoneandbecamebewilderedamidsthillsandravines。AtlastIsawasmallhouseclosebyanantordingle，andturnedtowardsitforthepurposeofinquiringmyway。Onmyknockingatthedoorawomanmadeherappearance，ofwhomIaskedinWelshwhetherIwasintheroadtoLlanRhyadr。ShesaidthatI
　　wasoutofit，butthatifIwenttowardsthesouthIshouldseeapathonmyleftwhichwouldbringmetoit。IaskedherhowfaritwastoLlanRhyadr。
　　"Fourlongmiles，"shereplied。
　　"Andwhatisthenameoftheplacewherewearenow？"saidI。
　　"CaeHir"（thelonginclosure），saidshe。
　　"Areyoualoneinthehouse？"saidI。
　　"Quitealone，"saidshe；"butmyhusbandandpeoplewillsoonbehomefromthefield，foritisgettingdusk。"
　　"HaveyouanySaxon？"saidI。
　　"Notaword，"saidshe，"haveIoftheiaithdieithr，norhasmyhusband，noranyoneofmypeople。"
　　Ibadeherfarewell，andsoonreachedtheroad，whichledsouthandnorth。AsIwasboundforthesouthIstrodeforwardbrisklyinthatdirection。Theroadwasbetweenromantichills；heardWelshsongsproceedingfromthehillfieldsonmyright，andthemurmurofabrookrushingdownadeepnantonmyleft。IwentontillI