首页 >出版文学> Wild Wales>第29章

第29章

  "ItoldhimthatIcouldtakeittotheriver,providedIcouldbutgetthreeorfourmentohelpme;whereuponhesaidthatifIcouldbutgetthevesseltothewaterhewouldgivemeanythingIasked,andearnestlybeggedmetocomethenextmorning,ifpossible。I
  didcomewiththeladandfourhorses。Iwentbeforetheteam,andsetthementoworktobreakaholethroughagreatoldwall,whichstoodasitwerebeforetheship。Wethenlaidapieceoftimberacrosstheholefromwhichwasachain,towhichthetackle,thatistheropeandpulleys,washooked。Wethenhookedoneendoftheropetotheship,andsetthehorsestopullattheother。Theshipcameoutoftheholeprosperouslyenough,andthenwehadtohookthetackletoatree,whichwasgrowingnear,andbythismeanswegottheshipforward;butwhenwecametosoftgroundwewereobligedtoputplanksunderthewheelstopreventtheirsinkingundertheimmenseweight;whenwecametotheendoftheforemostplanksweputthehinderonesbefore,andsoon;whentherewasnotreeathandtowhichwecouldhookthetackle,wewereobligedtodriveapostdowntohookitto。Sofromtreetopostitgotdowntotheriverinafewdays。Iwaspromisednoblewagesbythemerchant,butInevergotanythingfromhimbutpromisesandpraises。Somepeoplecametolookatus,andgaveusmoneytogetale,andthatwasall。"
  Themerchantsubsequentlyturnedoutaverygreatknave,cheatingTomonvariousoccasions,andfinallybrokeverymuchinhisdebt。
  Tomwasobligedtoselloffeverything,andleftSouthWaleswithouthorsesorwaggon;hisoldfriendtheMuse,however,stoodhimingoodstead。
  "BeforeIleft,"sayshe,"IwenttoBrecon,andprintedthe’InterludeoftheKing,theJustice,theBishop,andtheHusbandman,’andgotanoldacquaintanceofminetoplayitwithme,andhelpmetosellthebooks。Ilikewisebusiedmyselfingettingsubscriberstoabookofsongscalledthe’GardenofMinstrelsy。’ItwasprintedatTrefecca。Theexpenseattendingtheprintingamountedtofifty—twopounds,butIwasfortunateenoughtodisposeoftwothousandcopies。Isubsequentlycomposedaninterludecalled’PleasureandCare,’andprintedit;andafterthatImadeaninterludecalledthe’ThreePowerfulOnesoftheWorld:Poverty,Love,andDeath。’"
  Thepoet’sdaughterswerenotsuccessfulinthetavernspeculationatLlandeilo,andfollowedtheirfatherintoNorthWales。Thesecondheapprenticedtoamilliner,theothertwolivedwithhimtillthedayofhisdeath。HesettledatDenbighinasmallhousewhichhewasenabledtofurnishbymeansoftwoorthreesmallsumswhichherecoveredforworkdonealongtimebefore。Shortlyafterhisreturn,hisfatherdied,andthelawyerseizedthelittleproperty"fortheoldcurse,"andturnedTom’smotherout。
  AfterhisreturnfromtheSouthTomwentaboutforsometimeplayinginterludes,andthenturnedhishandtomanythings。Helearntthetradeofstonemason,tookjobs,andkeptworkmen。Hethenwentamongstcertainbricklayers,andinducedthemtoteachhimtheircraft;"andshortly,"ashesays,"becameaverylionatbricklaying。Forthelastfourorfiveyears,"sayshe,towardstheconclusionofhishistory,"myworkhasbeentoputupironovensandlikewisefurnacesofallkinds,alsogrates,stovesandboilers,andnotunfrequentlyIhavepractisedasasmokedoctor。"
  ThefollowingfeatsofstrengthheperformedafterhisreturnfromSouthWales,whenhewasprobablyaboutsixtyyearsofage:—
  "AboutayearaftermyreturnfromtheSouth,"sayshe,"Imetwithanoldcarrierofwood,whohadmanyatimeworkedalongwithme。
  HeandIwereattheHandatRuthynalongwithvariousothers,andinthecourseofdiscoursemyfriendsaidtome:’Tom,thouartmuchweakerthanthouwastwhenwecartedwoodtogether。’I
  answeredthatinmyopinionIwasnotabitweakerthanIwasthen。
  NowithappenedthatatthemomentweweretalkingthereweresomesacksofwheatinthehallwhichweregoingtoChesterbythecarrier’swaggon。Theymightholdaboutthreebushelseach,andI
  saidthatifIcouldgetthreeofthesacksuponthetable,andhadthemtiedtogether,Iwouldcarrythemintothestreetandbackagain;andsoIdid;manywhowerepresenttriedtodothesamething,butallfailed。
  "AnothertimewhenIwasatChesterIliftedabarrelofporterfromthestreettothehinderpartofthewaggonsolelybystrengthofbackandarms。"
  Hewasoncerunoverbyaloadedwaggon,butstrangetosayescapedwithouttheslightestinjury。
  Towardsthecloseofhislifehehadstrongreligiousconvictions,andfeltaloathingforthesinswhichhehadcommitted。"Ontheiraccount,"saysheintheconcludingpageofhisbiography,"thereisastrongnecessityformetoconsidermywaysandtoinquireaboutaSaviour,sinceitisutterlyimpossibleformetosavemyselfwithoutobtainingknowledgeofthemeritsoftheMediator,inwhichIhopeIshallterminatemyshorttimeonearthinthepeaceofGodenduringuntoalleternity。"
  Hediedintheyear1810,attheageof71,shortlyafterthedeathofhiswife,whoseemstohavebeenafaithful,lovingpartner。ByhersidehewasburiedintheearthofthegraveyardoftheWhiteChurch,nearDenbigh。Therecanbelittledoubtthatthesoulsofbothwillbeacceptedonthegreatdaywhen,asGronwyOwensays:—
  "Likecornfromthebellyoftheploughedfield,inathickcrop,thoseburiedintheearthshallarise,andtheseashallcastforthathousandmyriadsofdeadabovethedeepbillowyway。"
  CHAPTERLX
  MysteryPlays—TheTwoPrimeOpponents—AnalysisofInterlude—
  RichesandPoverty—Tom’sGrandQualities。
  INtheprecedingchapterIhavegivenanabstractofthelifeofTomO’theDingle;Iwillnowgiveananalysisofhisinterlude;
  first,however,afewwordsoninterludesingeneral。Itisdifficulttosaywithanythinglikecertaintywhatisthemeaningofthewordinterlude。Itmaymean,asWartonsupposesinhishistoryofEnglishPoetry,ashortplayperformedbetweenthecoursesofabanquetorfestival;oritmaymeantheplayingofsomethingbytwoormoreparties,theinterchangeofplayingoractingwhichoccurswhentwoormorepeopleact。ItwasaboutthemiddleofthefifteenthcenturythatdramaticpiecesbeganinEnglandtobecalledInterludes;forsometimeprevioustheyhadbeenstyledMoralities;buttheearliestnamebywhichtheywereknownwasMysteries。ThefirstMysteriescomposedinEnglandwerebyoneRanald,orRanulf,amonkofChester,whoflourishedabout1322,whoseversesarementionedratherirreverentlyinoneofthevisionsofPiersPlowman,whoputstheminthesamerankastheballadsaboutRobinHoodandMaidMarion,makingSlothsay:
  "IcannonperfitlymyPaternosterasthepriestitsingeth,ButIcanrhymesofRobinHoodandRanaldofChester。"
  Long,however,beforethetimeofthisRanaldMysterieshadbeencomposedandrepresentedbothinItalyandFrance。TheMysterieswereveryrudecompositions,littlemore,asWartonsays,thanliteralrepresentationsofportionsofScripture。TheyderivedtheirnameofMysteriesfrombeinggenerallyfoundedonthemoremysteriouspartsofHolyWrit,forexampletheIncarnation,theAtonement,andtheResurrection。TheMoralitiesdisplayedsomethingmoreofartandinventionthantheMysteries;inthemvirtues,vicesandqualitieswerepersonified,andsomethinglikeaplotwasfrequentlytobediscovered。TheyweretermedMoralitiesbecauseeachhaditsmoral,whichwasspokenattheendofthepiecebyapersoncalledtheDoctor。(7)Muchthathasbeensaidaboutthemoralitiesholdsgoodwithrespecttotheinterludes。
  Indeed,forsometimedramaticpieceswerecalledmoralitiesandinterludesindifferently。Inboththereisamixtureofallegoryandreality。Thelatterinterludes,however,displaymoreofevery—daylifethanwaseverobservableinthemoralities;andmorecloselyapproximatetomodernplays。Severalwritersofgeniushavewritteninterludes,amongstwhomaretheEnglishSkeltonandtheScottishLindsay,thelatterofwhomwroteeightpiecesofthatkind,themostcelebratedofwhichiscalled"ThePuirManandthePardoner。"Bothofthesewritersflourishedaboutthesameperiod,andmadeuseoftheinterludeasameansofsatirizingthevicesofthepopishclergy。InthetimeofCharlestheFirsttheinterludewentmuchoutoffashioninEngland;infact,theplayorregulardramahadsupersededit。InWales,however,itcontinuedtothebeginningofthepresentcentury,whenityieldedtotheinfluenceofMethodism。OfallWelshinterludecomposersTwmO’rNantorTomoftheDinglewasthemostfamous。Herefollowsthepromisedanalysisofhis"RichesandPoverty。"
  Theentiretitleoftheinterludeistothiseffect。ThetwoprimeopponentsRichesandPoverty。Abriefexpositionoftheircontraryeffectsontheworld;withshortandappropriateexplanationsoftheirqualityandsubstanceaccordingtotheruleofthefourelements,Water,Fire,Earth,andAir。
  FirstofallenterFool,SirJemantWamal,whoinratherafoolishspeechtellstheaudiencethattheyareabouttohearapiececomposedbyTomthepoet。ThenappearsCaptainRiches,whomakesalongspeechabouthisinfluenceintheworldandthegeneralcontemptinwhichPovertyisheld;heis,however,presentlycheckedbytheFool,whotellshimsomehometruths,andaskshim,amongotherquestions,whetherSolomondidnotsaythatitisnotmeettodespiseapoorman,whoconductshimselfrationally。ThenappearsHowelTightbelly,themiser,whoincapitalverse,withveryconsiderablegleeandexultation,givesanaccountofhismanifoldrascalities。Thencomeshiswife,EstherSteady,homefromthemarket,betweenwhomandherhusbandthereisapithydialogue。CaptainRichesandCaptainPovertythenmeet,withoutrancour,however,andhavealongdiscourseabouttheprovidenceofGod,whoseagentstheyownthemselvestobe。EnterthenanoldworthlessscoundrelcalledDiogynTrwstan,orLucklessLazybones,whoisupontheparish,andwho,inaveryentertainingaccountofhislife,confessesthathewasnevergoodforanything,butwasaliarandanidlerfromhisinfancy。EnteragaintheMiseralongwithpoorLowry,whoaskstheMiserformealandotherarticles,butgetsnothingbutthreateninglanguage。ThereisthenaveryedifyingdialoguebetweenMrContemplationandMrTruth,who,whentheyretire,aresucceededonthestagebytheMiserandJohntheTavern—keeper。ThepublicanowestheMisermoney,andbegsthathewillbemercifultohim。TheMiser,however,swearsthathewillbesatisfiedwithnothingbutbondandjudgmentonhiseffects。
  Thepublicanveryhumblysaysthathewillgotoafriendofhisinordertogetthebondmadeout;almostinstantlycomestheFoolwhoreadsaninventoryofthepublican’seffects。TheMiserthensingsforverygladness,becauseeverythingintheworldhashithertogonewellwithhim;turninground,however,whatishishorrorandastonishmenttobeholdMrDeath,closebyhim。DeathhaulstheMiseraway,andthenappearstheFooltomoraliseanddismisstheaudience。
  Theappropriateexplanationsmentionedinthetitlearegiveninvarioussongswhichthevariouscharacterssingafterdescribingthemselves,orafterdialogueswitheachother。Theannouncementthatthewholeexposition,etc。,willbeaftertheruleofthefourelements,isratherstartling;thedialogue,however,betweenCaptainRichesandCaptainPovertyshowsthatTomwasequaltohissubject,andpromisednothingthathecouldnotperform。
  ENTERCAPTAINPOVERTY
  ORiches,thyfigureischarmingandbright,Andtospeakinthypraisealltheworlddothdelight,ButI’mapoorfellowalltatter’dandtorn,Whomalltheworldtreatethwithinsultandscorn。
  RICHES
  HowevermistakenthejudgmentmaybeOftheworldwhichisneverfromignorancefree,Thepartswemustplay,whichtousareassign’d,AccordingasGodhasenlightenedourmind。
  OfelementsfourdidourMastercreateTheearthandallinitwithskillthemostgreat;
  NeedItheworld’sfourmaterialsdeclare—
  Aretheynotwater,fire,earth,andair?
  ToowisewasthemightyCreatortoframeAworldfromoneelement,waterorflame;
  Theoneisfullmoistandtheotherfullhot,Andaworldmadeofeitherwereuseless,Iwot。
  Andifithadallofmereearthbeencompos’dAndnowaternorfirebeenwithinitenclos’d,Itcouldne’erhaveproduc’dforahugemultitudeOfallkindsoflivingthingssuitablefood。
  AndifGodwhatwaswantedhadnotfullyknown,Butcreatedtheworldofthesethreethingsalone,Howwouldanycreaturetheheavenbeneath,Withouttheblestairhavebeenabletobreathe?
  Thusallthingscreated,theGodofallgrace,Offourprimematerials,eachgoodinitsplace。
  TheworkofHishands,whencompleted,Heview’d,Andsawandpronounc’dthat’twasseemlyandgood。
  POVERTY
  Inthemarvellousthings,whichtomethouhasttoldThewisdomofGodImostclearlybehold,AnddidHenotalsomakemanofthesameMaterialsHeus’dwhentheworldHedidframe?
  RICHES
  Creationisall,asthesagesagree,Oftheelementsfourinman’sbodythatbe;
  Water’stheblood,andfireisthenature,Whichpromptsgenerationineverycreature。
  TheearthisthefleshwhichwithbeautyisrifeTheairisthebreath,withoutwhichisnolife;
  SomanmustbealwaysaccountedthesameAsthesubstancesfourwhichexistinhisframe。
  Andasintheircreationdistinctionthere’snone’Twixtmanandtheworld,sotheInfiniteOneUntomanaclearwisdomdidbounteouslygiveThenatureofeverythingtoperceive。
  POVERTY
  ButonethingtomepassingstrangedothappearSincethewisdomofmanissobrightandsoclearHowcomestheresuchjarringandwarringtobeIntheworldbetwixtRichesandPoverty?
  RICHES
  Thatpointwe’lldiscusswithoutpassionorfearWiththeaimofinstructingthelistenershere;
  AndhaplysomefewwhoinstructionrequireMayprofitderivelikethebeefromthebriar。
  Manasthouknowest,inhisgenerationIsatypeoftheworldandofallthecreation;
  Differencethere’snoneinthemannerofbirth’Twixtthelowliesthindsandthelordsoftheearth。
  TheworldwhichthesamethingasmanweaccountInoneplaceissea,inanotherismount;
  Apartofitrock,andapartofitdale—
  God’swisdomhasmadeeveryplacetoavail。
  ThereexistprecioustreasuresofeverykindProfoundlyinearth’squietbosomenshrin’d;
  There’ssearchingaboutthem,andeverhasbeen,Andbysometheyarefound,andbysomeneverseen。
  WithwonderfulwisdomtheLordGodonhighHascontriv’dthetwolightswhichexistinthesky;
  Thesun’shotasfire,anditsraybrightasgold,Butthemoon’severpale,andbynatureiscold。
  Thesun,whichresemblesahugeworldoffire,WouldburnupfullquicklycreationentireSavethemoonwithitstemp’ramentcooldidassuageOfitsbrightercompanionthefuryandrage。
  NowIbegyouthesunandthemoontobehold,Theonethat’ssobrightandtheothersocold。
  AndsayiftwothingsincreationtherebeBetteremblemsofRichesandPoverty。
  POVERTY
  Inmannermostbrief,yetconvincingandclear,Youhavetoldthewholetruthtomywond’ringear,AndIseethat’twasGod,whoinallthingsisfair,Hasassign’dustheforms,inthisworldwhichwebear。
  InthesightoftheworlddoththewealthymanseemLikethesunwhichdothwarmeverythingwithitsbeam;
  WhilstthepoorneedywightwithhispitiablecaseResemblesthemoonwhichdothchillwithitsface。
  RICHES
  Youknowthatfulloft,intheircourseastheyrun,Aneclipsecomethoverthemoonorthesun;
  CertainhillsoftheearthwiththeirsummitsofprideThefaceoftheonefromtheotherdohide。
  Thesundothuplifthismagnificenthead,Andilluminesthemoon,whichwereotherwisedead,EvenasWealthfromitsstationonhigh,GivethworkandprovisiontoPoverty。
  POVERTY
  Iknow,andthethoughtmightysorrowinstils,ThesinsoftheworldaretheterriblehillsAneclipsewhichdocause,oradreadobscuration,Tooneoranotherineveryvocation。
  RICHES
  ItistruethatGodgivesuntoeachfromhisbirthSometasktoperformwhilehewendsuponearth,ButHegivescorrespondentwisdomandforceTotheweightofthetask,andthelengthofthecourse。
  [Exit。
  POVERTY
  Ihopetherearesome,who’twixtmeandtheyouthHaveheardthisdiscourse,whosesoleaimisthetruth,Willseeandacknowledge,ashomewardtheyplod,Eachthingisarrang’dbythewisdomofGod。
  TherecanbenodoubtthatTomwasapoet,orhecouldneverhavetreatedthehackneyedsubjectsofRichesandPovertyinamannersooriginalandatthesametimesomasterlyashehasdoneintheinterludeaboveanalyzed:Icannot,however,helpthinkingthathewasgreaterasamanthanapoet,andthathisfamedependsmoreonthecleverness,courageandenergy,whichitisevidentbyhisbiographythathepossessed,thanonhisinterludes。Atimewillcomewhenhisinterludeswillceasetoberead,buthismakinginkoutofelderberries,hisbattlewiththe"cruelfighter,"histeachinghishorsestoturnthecrane,andhisgettingtheshiptothewater,willbetalkedofinWalestillthepeakofSnowdonshallfalldown。
  CHAPTERLXI
  SetoutforWrexham—CraigyForwyn—Uncertainty—TheCollier—
  CadoganHall—MethodisticalVolume。
  HAVINGlearntfromanewspaperthataWelshbookonWelshMethodismhadbeenjustpublishedatWrexham,Ideterminedtowalktothatplaceandpurchaseit。IcouldeasilyhaveprocuredtheworkthroughabookselleratLlangollen,butIwishedtoexplorethehill—roadwhichledtoWrexham,whatthefarmerundertheEglwysigrockshadsaidofitswildnesshavingexcitedmycuriosity,whichtheprocuringofthebookaffordedmeaplausibleexcuseforgratifying。Ifonewantstotakeanyparticularwalkitisalwayswelltohavesomebusiness,howevertrifling,totransactattheendofit;sohavingdeterminedtogotoWrexhambythemountainroad,IsetoutontheSaturdaynextaftertheoneonwhichIhadmetthefarmerwhohadtoldmeofit。
  Thedaywasgloomy,withsometendencytorain。IpassedunderthehillofDinasBran。AboutafurlongfromitswesternbaseIturnedroundandsurveyedit—andperhapsthebestviewofthenoblemountainistobeobtainedfromtheplacewhereIturnedround。
  Howgrandthoughsadfromthereitlooked,thatgreymorning,withitsfineruinonitsbrowabovewhichalittlecloudhovered!Itputmeinmindofsomeoldking,unfortunateandmelancholybutakingstill,withthelookofaking,andtheancestralcrownstillonhisfurrowedforehead。Iproceededonmyway,allwaswildandsolitary,andtheyellowleaveswerefallingfromthetreesofthegroves。Ipassedbythefarmyard,whereIhadhelddiscoursewiththefarmerontheprecedingSaturday,andsoonenteredtheglen,theappearanceofwhichhadsomuchattractedmycuriosity。A
  torrent,rushingdownfromthenorth,wasonmyright。Itsoonbegantodrizzle,andmistsofilledtheglenthatIcouldonlydistinguishobjectsashortwaybeforeme,andoneitherside。I
  wanderedonaconsiderableway,crossingthetorrentseveraltimesbyrusticbridges。Ipassedtwolonefarm—housesandatlastsawanotheronmylefthand。Themisthadnowclearedup,butitstillslightlyrained—thescenerywaswildtoadegree—alittlewaybeforemewasatremendouspass,nearitanenormouscragofastrangeformrisingtotheveryheavens,theupperpartofitofadullwhitecolour。Seeingarespectable—lookingmannearthehouseIwentuptohim。
  "AmIintherightwaytoWrexham?"saidI,addressinghiminEnglish。
  "YoucangettoWrexhamthisway,sir,"hereplied。
  "Canyoutellmethenameofthatcrag?"saidI,pointingtothelargeone。
  "Thatcrag,sir,iscalledCraigyForwyn。"
  "Themaiden’scrag,"saidI;"whyisitcalledso?"
  "Idonotknowsir;somepeoplesaythatitiscalledsobecauseitsheadislikethatofawoman,othersbecauseayounggirlinloveleapedfromthetopofitandwaskilled。"
  "Andwhatisthenameofthishouse?"saidI。
  "Thishouse,sir,iscalledPlasUchaf。"
  "IsitcalledPlasUchaf,"saidI,"becauseitisthehighesthouseinthevalley?"
  "Itis,sir;itisthehighestofthreehomesteads;thenextbelowitisPlasCanol—andtheonebelowthatPlasIsaf。"
  "Middleplaceandlowerplace,"saidI。"ItisveryoddthatI
  knowinEnglandthreepeoplewhoderivetheirnamesfromplacessosituated。OneisHoughton,anotherMiddleton,andthethirdLowdon;inmodernEnglish,Hightown,Middletown,andLowtown。"
  "Youappeartobeapersonofgreatintelligence,sir。"
  "No,Iamnot—butIamratherfondofanalysingwords,particularlythenamesofpersonsandplaces。IstheroadtoWrexhamhardtofind?"
  "Notvery,sir;thatis,intheday—time。DoyouliveatWrexham?"
  "No,"Ireplied,"IamstoppingatLlangollen。"
  "Butyouwon’treturnthereto—night?"
  "Ohyes,Ishall!"
  "Bythisroad?"
  "No,bythecommonroad。Thisisnotaroadtotravelbynight。"
  "Noristhecommonroad,sir,forarespectablepersononfoot;
  thatis,onaSaturdaynight。Youwillperhapsmeetdrunkencollierswhomayknockyoudown。"
  "Iwilltakemychanceforthat,"saidI,andbadehimfarewell。I
  enteredthepass,passingunderthestrange—lookingcrag。AfterI
  hadwalkedabouthalfamilethepasswidenedconsiderablyandalittlewayfurtherondebauchedonsomewildmooryground。Heretheroadbecameveryindistinct。AtlengthIstoppedinastateofuncertainty。Awell—definedpathpresenteditself,leadingtotheeast,whilstnorthwardbeforemethereseemedscarcelyanypathatall。AftersomehesitationIturnedtotheeastbythewell—
  definedpath,andbysodoingwentwrong,asIsoonfound。
  Imountedthesideofabrownhillcoveredwithmoss—likegrass,andhereandthereheather。BythetimeIarrivedatthetopofthehillthesunshoneout,andIsawRhiwabonandCefnMawrbeforemeinthedistance。"Iamgoingwrong,"saidI;"Ishouldhavekeptonduenorth。However,Iwillnotgoback,butwillsteeple—
  chaseitacrossthecountrytoWrexham,whichmustbetowardsthenorth—east。"Soturningasidefromthepath,Idashedacrossthehillsinthatdirection;sometimestheheatherwasuptomyknees,andsometimesIwasuptothekneesinquags。AtlengthIcametoadeepravinewhichIdescended;atthebottomwasaquagmire,which,however,Icontrivedtocrossbymeansofcertainstepping—
  stones,andcametoacartpathupaheatheryhillwhichI
  followed。Isoonreachedthetopofthehill,andthepathstillcontinuing,IfollowedittillIsawsomesmallgrimy—lookinghuts,whichIsupposedwerethoseofcolliers。AtthedoorofthefirstIsawagirl。IspoketoherinWelsh,andfoundshehadlittleornone。Ipassedon,andseeingthedoorofacabinopenIlookedin—andsawnoadultperson,butseveralgrimybutchubbychildren。
  IspoketotheminEnglish,andfoundtheycouldonlyspeakWelsh。
  PresentlyIobservedarobustwomanadvancingtowardsme;shewasbarefootedandboreonherheadanimmenselumpofcoal。IspoketoherinWelsh,andfoundshecouldonlyspeakEnglish。"Truly,"
  saidItomyself,"Iamontheborders。Whatamixtureofracesandlanguages!"ThenextpersonImetwasamaninacollier’sdress;hewasastout—builtfellowofthemiddleage,withacoal—