首页 >出版文学> Wild Wales>第31章

第31章

  cametoacollectionofhouseswhichanoldwoman,withacrackedvoiceandasmalltinmilk—pail,whomIassistedingettingoverastileintotheroad,toldmewascalledPenStrit—probablytheheadofthestreet。ShespokeEnglish,andonmyaskingherhowshehadlearnttheEnglishtongue,shetoldmethatshehadlearntitofhermotherwhowasanEnglishwoman。ShesaidthatIwastwomilesfromLlanRhyadr,andthatImustgostraightforward。IdidsotillIreachedaplacewheretheroadbranchedintotwo,onebearingsomewhattotheleft,andtheothertotheright。AfterstandingaminuteinperplexityItooktheright—handroad,butsoonguessedthatIhadtakenthewrongone,astheroaddwindledintoamerefootpath。HearingsomeonewalkingontheothersideofthehedgeIinquiredinWelshwhetherIwasgoingrightforLlanRhyadr,andwasansweredbyavoiceinEnglish,apparentlythatofawoman,thatIwasnot,andthatImustgoback。Ididso,andpresentlyawomancamethroughagatetome。
  "Areyoutheperson,"saidI,"whojustnowansweredmeinEnglishafterIhadspokeninWelsh?"
  "IntruthIam,"saidshe,withahalflaugh。
  "AndhowcameyoutoanswermeinEnglishafterIhadspokentoyouinWelsh?"
  "Because,"saidshe,"itwaseasyenoughtoknowbyyourvoicethatyouwereanEnglishman。"
  "YouspeakEnglishremarkablywell,"saidI。
  "AndsodoyouWelsh,"saidthewoman;"IhadnoideathatitwaspossibleforanyEnglishmantospeakWelshhalfsowell。"
  "Iwonder,"thoughtItomyself,"whatyouwouldhaveansweredifI
  hadsaidthatyouspeakEnglishexecrably。"ByherownaccountshecouldreadbothWelshandEnglish。Shewalkedbymysidetotheturn,andthenuptheleft—handroad,whichshesaidwasthewaytoLlanRhyadr。Comingtoacottageshebademegood—nightandwentin。Theroadwashorriblymiry:presently,asIwasstaggeringthroughaslough,justafterIhadpassedalittlecottage,Iheardacrackedvoicecrying,"Isupposeyoulostyourway?"I
  recogniseditasthatoftheoldwomanwhomIhadhelpedoverthestile。Shewasnowstandingbehindalittlegatewhichopenedintoagardenbeforethecottage。Thefigureofamanwasstandingnearher。Itoldherthatshewasquiterightinhersupposition。
  "Ah,"saidshe,"youshouldhavegonestraightforward。"
  "IfIhadgonestraightforward,"saidI,"Imusthavegoneoverahedge,atthecornerofafieldwhichseparatedtworoads;insteadofbiddingmegostraightforwardyoushouldhavetoldmetofollowtheleft—handroad。"
  "Well,"saidshe,"besureyoukeepstraightforwardnow。"
  Iaskedherwhothemanwasstandingnearher。
  "Itismyhusband,"saidshe。
  "HashemuchEnglish?"saidI。
  "Noneatall,"saidshe,"forhismotherwasnotEnglish,likemine。"Ibadehergood—nightandwentforward。PresentlyIcametoameetingofroads,andtogostraightforwarditwasnecessarytopassthroughaquagmire;remembering,however,thewordsofmyfriendthebeldameIwentstraightforward,thoughinsodoingI
  wasslougheduptotheknees。InalittletimeIcametorapiddescent,andatthebottomofittoabridge。Itwasnowverydark;onlythecornerofthemoonwascastingafaintlight。AftercrossingthebridgeIhadoneortwoascentsanddescents。AtlastIsawlightsbeforemewhichprovedtobethoseofLlanRhyadr。I
  soonfoundmyselfinadirtylittlestreet,and,inquiringfortheinn,waskindlyshownbyamantoonewhichhesaidwasthebest,andwhichwascalledtheWynstayArms。
  CHAPTERLXV
  InnatLlanRhyadr—AlowEnglishman—Enquiries—TheCook—A
  PreciousCouple。
  THEinnseemedverylarge,butdidnotlookverycheerful。Nootherguestthanmyselfseemedtobeinit,exceptinthekitchen,whereIheardafellowtalkingEnglishandoccasionallyyellinganEnglishsong:themasterandthemistressofthehousewerecivil,andlightedmeafireinwhatwascalledtheCommercialRoom,andputtingplentyofcoalsinthegratesoonmadetheapartmentwarmandcomfortable。Iordereddinnerorrathersupper,whichinabouthalf—an—hourwasbroughtinbythewoman。ThesupperwhethergoodorbadIdespatchedwiththeappetiteofonewhohadwalkedtwentymilesoverhillanddale。
  OccasionallyIheardadreadfulnoiseinthekitchen,andthewomantoldmethatthefellowtherewasmakinghimselfexceedinglydisagreeable,chieflyshebelievedbecauseshehadrefusedtolethimsleepinthehouse。Shesaidthathewasalowfellowthatwentaboutthecountrywithfish,andthathewasthemorereadytoinsultherasthemasterofthehousewasnowgoneout。IaskedifhewasanEnglishman,"Yes,"saidshe,"alowEnglishman。"
  "Thenhemustbelowindeed,"saidI。"AlowEnglishmanisthelowestofthelow。"AfteralittletimeIheardnomorenoise,andwastoldthatthefellowwasgoneaway。Ihadalittlewhiskyandwater,andthenwenttobed,sleepinginatolerablechamberbutrathercold。Therewasmuchrainduringthenightandalsowind;
  windowsrattled,andIoccasionallyheardthenoiseoffallingtiles。
  Iaroseabouteight。Notwithstandingthenighthadbeensotempestuousthemorningwassunshinyandbeautiful。HavingorderedbreakfastIwalkedoutinordertolookatthetown。LlanRhyadrisasmallplace,havingnothingremarkableinitsaveanancientchurchandastrangelittleantiquemarket—house,standingonpillars。Itissituatedatthewesternendofanextensivevalleyandattheentranceofaglen。Abrookorrivuletrunsthroughit,whichcomesdowntheglenfromthecelebratedcataract,whichisaboutfourmilesdistanttothewest。Twoloftymountainsformtheentranceoftheglen,andtowerabovethetown,oneonthesouthandtheotheronthenorth。Theirnames,iftheyhaveany,Ididnotlearn。
  Afterstrollingaboutthelittleplaceforaboutaquarterofanhour,staringatthethingsandthepeople,andbeingstaredatbythelatter,Ireturnedtomyinn,astructurebuiltinthemodernGothicstyle,andwhichstandsnearlyoppositetothechurchyard。
  WhilstbreakfastingIaskedthelandlady,whowasbustlingabouttheroom,whethershehadeverheardofOwenGlendower。
  "Intruth,sir,Ihave。Hewasagreatgentlemanwholivedalongtimeago,and,and—"
  "GavetheEnglishagreatdealoftrouble,"saidI。
  "Justso,sir;atleastIdaresayitisso,asyousayit。"
  "Anddoyouknowwherehelived?"
  "Idonot,sir;Isupposeagreatwayoff,somewhereinthesouth。"
  "DoyoumeanSouthWales?"
  "Intruth,sir,Ido。"
  "Thereyouaremistaken,"saidI;"andalsoinsupposinghelivedagreatwayoff。HelivedinNorthWales,andnotfarfromthisplace。"
  "Intruth,sir,youknowmoreabouthimthanI。"
  "DidyoueverhearofaplacecalledSycharth?
  "Sycharth!Sycharth!Ineverdid,sir。"
  "ItistheplacewhereGlendowerlived,anditisnotfaroff。I
  wanttogothere,butdonotknowtheway。"
  "Sycharth!Sycharth!"saidthelandladymusingly:"IwonderifitistheplacewecallSychnant。"
  "Istheresuchaplace?"
  "Yes,sure;aboutsixmilesfromhere,nearLangedwin。"
  "Whatkindofplaceisit?"
  "Intruth,sir,Idonotknow,forIwasneverthere。Mycook,however,inthekitchen,knowsallaboutit,forshecomesfromthere。"
  "CanIseeher?"
  "Yes,sure;Iwillgoatonceandfetchher。"
  Shethenlefttheroomandpresentlyreturnedwiththecook,ashort,thickgirlwithbluestaringeyes。
  "Heresheis,sir,"saidthelandlady,"butshehasnoEnglish。"
  "Allthebetter,"saidI。"SoyoucomefromaplacecalledSychnant?"saidItothecookinWelsh。
  "Intruth,sir,Ido;"saidthecook。
  "DidyoueverhearofagwrboneddigcalledOwenGlendower?"
  "Often,sir,often;helivedinourplace。"
  "HelivedinaplacecalledSycharth?"saidI。
  "Well,sir;andweoftheplacecallitSycharthasoftenasSychnant;nay,oftener。"
  "Ishishousestanding?"
  "Itisnot;butthehillonwhichitstoodisstillstanding。"
  "Isitahighhill?"
  "Itisnot;itisasmall,lighthill。"
  "Alighthill!"saidItomyself。"OldIoloGoch,OwenGlendower’sbard,saidthechieftaindweltinahouseonalighthill。
  "’TheredwellsthechiefweallextolIntimberhouseonlightsomeknoll。’
  "Istherealittlerivernearit,"saidItothecook,"affrwd?"
  "Thereis;itrunsjustunderthehill。"
  "Isthereamillupontheffrwd?"
  "Thereisnot;thatis,now—buttherewasintheoldtime;afactoryofwoollenstandsnowwherethemilloncestood。"
  "’AmillarushingbrookuponAndpigeontowerfram’dofstone。’
  "SosaysIoloGoch,"saidItomyself,"inhisdescriptionofSycharth;Iamontherightroad。"
  IaskedthecooktowhomthepropertyofSycharthbelongedandwastoldofcoursetoSirWatkin,whoappearstobetheMarquisofDenbighshire。AfterafewmorequestionsIthankedherandtoldhershemightgo。Ithenfinishedmybreakfast,paidmybill,andaftertellingthelandladythatIshouldreturnatnight,startedforLlangedwinandSycharth。
  AbroadandexcellentroadledalongthevalleyinthedirectioninwhichIwasproceeding。
  Thevalleywasbeautifulanddottedwithvariousfarm—houses,andthelandappearedtobeinashighastateofcultivationasthesoilofmyownNorfolk,thatcountysodeservedlycelebratedforitsagriculture。Theeasternsideisboundedbyloftyhills,andtowardsthenorththevaleiscrossedbythreeruggedelevations,themiddlemostofwhich,called,asanoldmantoldme,BrynDinas,terminatestothewestinanexceedinglyhighandpicturesquecrag。
  Afteranhour’swalkingIovertooktwopeople,amanandawomanladenwithbasketswhichhungaroundthemoneveryside。Themanwasayoungfellowofabouteight—and—twenty,witharoundface,fairflaxenhair,andringsinhisears;thefemalewasabloomingbuxomlassofabouteighteen。AftergivingthemtheseleofthedayIaskedthemiftheywereEnglish。
  "Aye,aye,master,"saidtheman;"weareEnglish。"
  "Wheredoyoucomefrom?"saidI。
  "FromWrexham,"saidtheman。
  "IthoughtWrexhamwasinWales,"said"Ifitbe,"saidtheman,"thepeoplearenotWelsh;amanisnotahorsebecausehehappenstobeborninastable。"
  "Isthatyoungwomanyourwife?"saidI。
  "Yes;"saidhe,"afterafashion"—andthenheleeredatthelass,andsheleeredathim。
  "Doyouattendanyplaceofworship?"saidI。
  "Agreatmany,master!"
  "Whatplacedoyouchieflyattend?"saidI。
  "TheChequers,master!"
  "Dotheypreachthebestsermonsthere?"saidI。
  "No,master!buttheysellthebestalethere。"
  "Doyouworshipale?"saidI。
  "Yes,master,Iworshipsale。"
  "Anythingelse?"saidI。
  "Yes,master!Iandmymortworshipssomethingbesidesgoodale;
  don’twe,Sue?"andthenheleeredatthemort,wholeeredathim,andbothmadeoddmotionsbackwardsandforwards,causingthebasketswhichhungroundthemtocreakandrustle,andutteringloudshoutsoflaughter,whichrousedtheechoesoftheneighbouringhills。
  "Genuinedescendants,nodoubt,"saidItomyselfasIwalkedbrisklyon,"ofcertainoftheoldheathenSaxonswhofollowedRagintoWalesandsettleddownaboutthehousewhichhebuilt。
  Really,ifthesetwoareafairspecimenoftheWrexhampopulation,myfriendtheScotchpolicemanwasnotmuchoutwhenhesaidthatthepeopleofWrexhamweretheworstpeopleinWales。"
  CHAPTERLXVI
  Sycharth—TheKindlyWelcome—HappyCouple—Sycharth—RecallingtheDead—OdetoSycharth。
  IWASnowatthenorthernextremityofthevalleynearagreathousepastwhichtheroadledinthedirectionofthenorth—east。
  SeeingamanemployedinbreakingstonesIinquiredthewaytoSychnant。
  "Youmustturntotheleft,"saidhe,"beforeyoucometoyongreathouse,followthepathwhichyouwillfindbehindit,andyouwillsoonbeinSychnant。"
  "Andtowhomdoesthegreathousebelong?"
  "Towhom?why,toSirWatkin。"
  "Doesheresidethere?"
  "Notoften。Hehasplentyofotherhouses,buthesometimescomestheretohunt。"
  "Whatistheplace’sname?"
  "LlanGedwin。"
  Iturnedtotheleft,asthelabourerhaddirectedme。Thepathledupwardbehindthegreathouseroundahillthicklyplantedwithtrees。FollowingitIatlengthfoundmyselfonabroadroadonthetopextendingeastandwest,andhavingonthenorthandsouthbeautifulwoodedhills。Ifollowedtheroadwhichpresentlybegantodescend。OnreachinglevelgroundIovertookamaninawaggoner’sfrock,ofwhomIinquiredthewaytoSycharth。Hepointedwestwarddownthevaletowhatappearedtobeacollectionofhouses,nearasingular—lookingmonticle,andsaid,"ThatisSycharth。"
  Wewalkedtogethertillwecametoaroadwhichbranchedoffontherighttoalittlebridge。
  "Thatisyourway,"saidhe,andpointingtoalargebuildingbeyondthebridge,toweringupaboveanumberofcottages,hesaid,"thatisthefactoryofSycharth;"hethenleftme,followingthehighroad,whilstIproceededtowardsthebridge,whichIcrossed,andcomingtothecottagesenteredoneontherighthandofaremarkablyneatappearance。
  Inacomfortablekitchenbyahearthonwhichblazedacheerfulbilletsatamanandwoman。BotharosewhenIentered:themanwastall,aboutfiftyyearsofage,andathleticallybuilt;hewasdressedinawhitecoat,corduroybreeches,shoes,andgreyworstedstockings。Thewomanseemedmanyyearsolderthantheman;shewastallalso,andstronglybuilt,anddressedintheancientfemalecostume,namely,akindofround,halfSpanishhat,longbluewoollenkirtleorgown,acrimsonpetticoat,andwhiteapron,andbroad,stoutshoeswithbuckles。
  "Welcome,stranger,"saidtheman,afterlookingmeamomentortwofullintheface。
  "Croesaw,dyndieithr—welcome,foreignman,"saidthewoman,surveyingmewithalookofgreatcuriosity。
  "Won’tyousitdown?"saidtheman,handingmeachair。
  Isatdown,andthemanandwomanresumedtheirseats。
  "Isupposeyoucomeonbusinessconnectedwiththefactory?"saidtheman。
  "No,"saidI,"mybusinessisconnectedwithOwenGlendower。"
  "WithOwenGlendower?"saidtheman,staring。
  "Yes,"saidI,"Icametoseehisplace。"
  "Youwillnotseemuchofhishousenow,"saidtheman—"itisdown;onlyafewbricksremain。"
  "ButIshallseetheplacewherehishousestood,"saidI,"whichisallIexpectedtosee。"
  "Yes,youcanseethat。"
  "Whatdoesthedyndieithrsay?"saidthewomaninWelshwithaninquiringlook。
  "ThatheiscometoseetheplaceofOwenGlendower。"
  "Ah!"saidthewomanwithasmile。
  "Isthatgoodladyyourwife?"saidI。
  "Sheis。"
  "Shelooksmucholderthanyourself。"
  "Andnowonder。Sheistwenty—oneyearsolder。"
  "Howoldareyou?"
  "Fifty—three。"
  "Dearme,"saidI,"whatadifferenceinyourages。Howcameyoutomarry?"
  "ShewasawidowandIhadlostmywife。Wewereloneintheworld,sowethoughtwewouldmarry。"
  "Doyoulivehappilytogether?"
  "Very。"
  "Thenyoudidquiterighttomarry。Whatisyourname?"
  "DavidRobert。"
  "Andthatofyourwife?"
  "GwenRobert。"
  "DoesshespeakEnglish?"
  "Shespeakssome,butnotmuch。"
  "IstheplacewhereOwenlivedfarfromhere?"
  "Itisnot。Itistheroundhillalittlewayabovethefactory。"
  "Isthepathtoiteasytofind?"
  "Iwillgowithyou,"saidtheman。"Iworkatthefactory,butI
  neednotgothereforanhouratleast。"
  Heputonhishatandbiddingmefollowhimwentout。Heledmeoveragushofwaterwhichpassingunderthefactoryturnsthewheel;thenceoverafieldortwotowardsahouseatthefootofthemountainwherehesaidthestewardofSirWatkinlived,ofwhomitwouldbeaswelltoapplyforpermissiontoascendthehill,asitwasSirWatkin’sground。Thestewardwasnotathome;hiswifewas,however,andshe,whenwetoldherwewishedtogotothetopofOwainGlendower’sHill,gaveuspermissionwithasmile。WethankedherandproceededtomountthehillormonticleoncetheresidenceofthegreatWelshchieftain,whomhisowndeedsandthepenofShakespearhaverenderedimmortal。
  OwenGlendower’shillormountatSycharth,unliketheonebearinghisnameonthebanksoftheDee,isnotanartificialhill,buttheworkofnature,saveandexceptthattoacertainextentithasbeenmodifiedbythehandofman。Itissomewhatconicalandconsistsoftwostepsorgradations,wheretwofossesscoopedoutofthehillgoroundit,oneabovetheother,theloweroneembracingconsiderablythemostspace。Boththesefossesareaboutsixfeetdeep,andatonetimedoubtlesswerebricked,asstoutlarge,redbricksareyettobeseen,hereandthere,intheirsides。Thetopofthemountisjusttwenty—fivefeetacross。WhenIvisitedititwascoveredwithgrass,buthadoncebeensubjectedtotheploughasvariousfurrowsindicated。Themonticlestandsnotfarfromthewesternextremityofthevalley,nearlymidwaybetweentwohillswhichconfronteachothernorthandsouth,theonetothesouthbeingthehillwhichIhaddescended,andtheotherabeautifulwoodedheightwhichiscalledintheparlanceofthecountryLlwynSycharthorthegroveofSycharth,fromwhichcomesthelittlegushofwaterwhichIhadcrossed,andwhichnowturnsthewheelofthefactoryandonceturnedthatofOwenGlendower’smill,andfilledhistwomoats,partofthewaterbysomemechanicalmeanshavingbeenforceduptheeminence。OnthetopofthishillormonticleinatimberhousedweltthegreatWelshmanOwenGlendower,withhiswife,acomely,kindlywoman,andhisprogeny,consistingofstoutboysandbloominggirls,andthere,thoughwonderfullycrampedforwantofroom,hefeastedbardswhorequitedhishospitalitywithalliterativeodesverydifficulttocompose,andwhichatthepresentdayonlyafewbook—
  wormsunderstand。Therehedweltformanyyears,thevirtualifnotthenominalkingofNorthWales,occasionallynodoubtlookingdownwithself—complaisancefromthetopofhisfastnessontheparksandfish—pondsofwhichhehadseveral;hismill,hispigeontower,hisploughedlands,andthecottagesofathousandretainers,huddledroundthelowerpartofthehill,orstrewnaboutthevalley;andtherehemighthavelivedanddiedhadnoteventscausedhimtodrawtheswordandengageinawar,attheterminationofwhichSycharthwasafire—scathedruin,andhimselfabroken—heartedoldmaninanchorite’sweeds,livinginacaveontheestateofSirJohnScudamore,thegreatHerefordshireproprietor,whomarriedhisdaughterElen,hisonlysurvivingchild。
  AfterIhadbeenaconsiderabletimeonthehilllookingaboutmeandaskingquestionsofmyguide,Itookoutapieceofsilverandofferedittohim,thankinghimatthesametimeforthetroublehehadtakeninshowingmetheplace。Herefusedit,sayingthatI
  wasquitewelcome。
  Itriedtoforceituponhim。
  "Iwillnottakeit,"saidhe;"butifyoucometomyhouseandhaveacupofcoffee,youmaygivesixpencetomyoldwoman。"
  "Iwillcome,"saidI,"inashorttime。Inthemeanwhiledoyougo;Iwishtobealone。"
  "Whatdoyouwanttodo?"
  "TositdownandendeavourtorecallGlendower,andthetimesthatarepast。"
  Thefinefellowlookedpuzzled;atlasthesaid,"Verywell,"
  shruggedhisshoulders,anddescendedthehill。
  WhenhewasgoneIsatdownonthebrowofthehill,andwithmyfaceturnedtotheeastbeganslowlytochantatranslationmadebymyselfinthedaysofmyboyhoodofanodetoSycharthcomposedbyIoloGochwhenupwardsofahundredyearsold,shortlyafterhisarrivalatthatplace,towhichhehadbeeninvitedbyOwenGlendower:—
  TwicehaveIpledg’dmywordtotheeTocomethynoblefacetosee;
  HispromisesleteverymanPerformasfarase’erhecan!
  Fulleasyisthethingthat’ssweet,Andsweetthisjourneyisandmeet;
  I’vevowedtoOwain’scourttogo,AndI’mresolvedtokeepmyvow;
  SothitherstraightI’lltakemywayWithblithesomeheart,andthereI’llstay,Respectandhonour,whilstIbreathe,Tofindhishonour’droofbeneath。
  Mychiefoflonglin’dancestryCanharboursonsofpoesy;
  I’veheard,forsothemusehastold,He’skindandgentletotheold;
  Yes,tohiscastleIwillhie;
  There’snonetomatchit’neaththesky:
  Itisabaron’sstatelycourt,Wherebardsforsumptuousfareresort;
  TheredwellsthelordofPowisland,Whograntetheveryjustdemand。
  ItslikenessnowI’lllimnyouout:
  ’Tiswatergirdledwideabout;
  ItshowsawideandstatelydoorReachedbyabridgethewatero’er;
  ’Tisformedofbuildingscoupledfair,Couplediseverycouplethere;
  WithinaquadratestructuretallMusterthemerrypleasuresall。
  Conjointlyaretheanglesbound—
  Noflawinalltheplaceisfound。
  StructuresincontactmeettheeyeUponthehillock’stoponhigh;
  IntoeachotherfastenedtheyTheformofahardknotdisplay。
  TheredwellsthechiefweallextolIntimberhouseonlightsomeknoll;
  UponfourwoodencolumnsproudMountethhismansiontothecloud;
  Eachcolumn’sthickandfirmlybas’d,Anduponeachaloftisplac’d;
  Inthesefourlofts,whichcoupledstand,Reposeatnighttheminstrelband;
  Fourloftstheywereinpristinestate,Butnowpartitionedformtheyeight。
  Tiledistheroof,oneachhouse—topRisesmoke—ejectingchimneysup。
  AllofoneformthereareninehallsEachwithninewardrobesinitswallsWithlinenwhiteaswellsuppliedAsfairestshopsoffam’dCheapside。
  Beholdthatchurchwithcrossuprais’dAndwithitswindowsneatlyglaz’d;
  Allhousesareinthiscomprest—
  Anorchard’snearitofthebest,AlsoaparkwherevoidoffearFeedantler’dherdsoffallowdeer。
  Awarrenwidemychiefcanboast,Ofgoodlysteedsacountlesshost。
  Meadswhereforhaytheclovergrows,Corn—fieldswhichhedgestriminclose,Amillarushingbrookupon,Andpigeontowerfram’dofstone;
  Afish—ponddeepanddarktosee,Tocastnetsinwhenneedtherebe,WhichneveryetwasknowntolackAplenteousstoreofperchandjack。
  Ofvariousplumagebirdsabound;
  Heronsandpeacockshauntaround,Whatluxurydothhishalladorn,Showingofcostasovereignscorn;