perchainsidepushedout。Thesemuchdiminishthevalueofthecable,astheymustallbecutout,thegutta—perchamadegood,andthecablespliced。Theyarisefromthecablehavingbeenbadlylaiddownsothatitformsfoldsandtailsatthebottomofthesea。Thesekinkshaveanotherdisadvantage:theyweakenthecableverymuch。—Ataboutsixo’clock[P。M。]wehadsometwelvemileslifted,whenIwenttothebows;thekinkswereexceedinglytightandweregivingwayinamostalarmingmanner。Igotacageriggeduptopreventtheend(ifitbroke)fromhurtinganyone,andsatdownonthebowsprit,thinkingIshoulddescribekinkstoAnnie:—
suddenlyIsawagreatmanycoilsandkinksaltogetheratthesurface。Ijumpedtothegutta—perchapipe,byblowingthroughwhichthesignalisgiventostoptheengine。Iblow,buttheenginedoesnotstop;again—noanswer:thecoilsandkinksjaminthebowsandIrushaftshoutingstop。Toolate:thecablehadpartedandmustlieinpeaceatthebottom。Someonehadpulledthegutta—perchatubeacrossabarepartofthesteampipeandmeltedit。Ithadbeenusedhundredsoftimesinthelastfewdaysandgavenosymptomsoffailing。Ibelievethecablemusthavegoneatanyrate;however,sinceitwentinmywatchandsinceImighthavesecuredthetubingmorestrongly,Ifeelrathersad……
’June28。
’SinceIcouldnotgotoAnnieItookdownShakespeare,andbythetimeIhadfinishedANTONYANDCLEOPATRA,readthesecondhalfofTROILUSandgotsomewayinCORIOLANUS,Ifeltitwaschildishtoregrettheaccidenthadhappenedinmywatch,andmoreoverIfeltmyselfnotmuchtoblameinthetubingmatter—ithadbeentorndown,ithadnotfallendown;soIwenttobed,andsleptwithoutfretting,andwokethismorninginthesamegoodmood—forwhichthankyouandourfriendShakespeare。IamhappytosayMr。
Liddellsaidthelossofthecabledidnotmuchmatter;thoughthiswouldhavebeennoconsolationhadIfeltmyselftoblame。—ThismorningwehavegrappledforandfoundanotherlengthofsmallcablewhichMr。—droppedin100fathomsofwater。Ifthisalsogetsfullofkinks,weshallprobablyhavetocutitafter10milesorso,ormoreprobablystillitwillpartofitsownfreewillorweight。
’10P。M。—Thissecondlengthofthree—wirecablesoongotintothesameconditionasitsfellow—i。e。cameuptwentykinksanhour—
andaftersevenmileswerein,partedonthepulleyoverthebowsatoneofthesaidkinks;duringmywatchagain,butthistimenoearthlypowercouldhavesavedit。Ihadtakenallmannerofprecautionstopreventtheenddoinganydamagewhenthesmashcame,forcomeIknewitmust。Wenowreturntothesix—wirecable。AsIsatwatchingthecableto—night,largephosphorescentglobeskeptrollingfromitandfadingintheblackwater。
’29th。
’To—daywereturnedtothebuoywehadleftattheendofthesix—
wirecable,andaftermuchtroublefromaseriesoftangles,gotafairstartatnoon。Youwilleasilybelieveatangleofironropeinchandahalfdiameterisnoteasytounravel,especiallywithatonorsohangingtotheends。Itisnoweighto’clockandwehaveaboutsixandahalfmilessafe:itbecomesveryexciting,however,forthekinksarecomingfastandfurious。
’July2。
’Twenty—eightmilessafeinthehold。Theshipisnowsodeep,thatthemenaretobeturnedoutoftheirafthold,andtheremaindercoiledthere;sothegoodELBA’Snoseneednotburrowtoofarintothewaves。Therecanonlybeabout10or12milesmore,buttheseweigh80or100tons。
’July5。
’Ourfirstmatewasmuchhurtinsecuringabuoyontheeveningofthe2nd。Asinterpreter[withtheItalians]Iamusefulinallthesecases;butfornofortunewouldIbeadoctortowitnessthesescenescontinually。Painisaterriblething。—Ourworkisdone:thewholeofthesix—wirecablehasbeenrecovered;onlyasmallpartofthethree—wire,butthatwirewasbadand,owingtoitstwistedstate,thevaluesmall。Wemaythereforebesaidtohavebeenverysuccessful。’
II。
Ihavegiventhiscruisenearlyinfull。Fromthenotes,unhappilyimperfect,oftwoothers,Iwilltakeonlyspecimens;forinalltherearefeaturesofsimilarityanditispossibletohavetoomuchevenofsubmarinetelegraphyandtheromanceofengineering。
Andfirstfromthecruiseof1859intheGreekIslandsandtoAlexandria,takeafewtraits,incidentsandpictures。
’May10,1859。
’Wehadafairwindandwedidverywell,seeingalittlebitofCerigorCythera,andlotsofturtle—doveswanderingaboutovertheseaandperching,tiredandtimid,intheriggingofourlittlecraft。ThenFalconera,Antimilo,andMilo,toppedwithhugewhiteclouds,barren,deserted,risingboldandmysteriousfromtheblue,chafingsea;—Argentiera,Siphano,Scapho,Paros,Antiparos,andlateatnightSyraitself。ADAMBEDEinonehand,asketch—bookintheother,lyingonrugsunderanawning,Ienjoyedaverypleasantday。
’May14。
’Syraissemi—eastern。Thepavement,hugeshapelessblocksslopingtoacentralgutter;fromthisbaretwo—storiedhouses,sometimesplastermanycoloured,sometimesrough—hewnmarble,rise,dirtyandill—finishedtostraight,plain,flatroofs;shopsguiltlessofwindows,withsignsinGreekletters;dogs,Greeksinblue,baggy,Zouavebreechesandafez,afewnarghilehsandasprinklingoftheordinarycontinentalshopboys。—IntheeveningItriedonemorewalkinSyrawithA—,butinvainendeavouredtoamusemyselfortospendmoney;thefirsteffortresultinginsingingDOODAHtoapassingGreekortwo,thesecondinspending,no,inmakingA—
spend,threepenceoncoffeeforthree。
’May16。
’Oncomingondeck,IfoundwewereatanchorinCaneabay,andsawoneofthemostlovelysightsmancouldwitness。Faroneitherhandstretchboldmountaincapes,SpadaandMaleka,tenderincolour,boldinoutline;richsunnylevelsliebeneaththem,framedbytheazuresea。Rightinfront,adarkbrownfortressgirdleswhitemosquesandminarets。Richandgreen,ourmountaincapesherejointoformasettingforthetown,inwhosedarkwalls—
stilldarker—openadozenhigh—archedcavesinwhichthehugeVenetiangalleysusedtolieinwait。Highaboveall,higherandhigheryet,upintothefirmament,rangeafterrangeofblueandsnow—cappedmountains。Iwasbewilderedandamazed,havingheardnothingofthisgreatbeauty。Thetownwhenenteredisquiteeastern。Thestreetsareformedofopenstallsunderthefirststory,inwhichsquattailors,cooks,sherbetvendorsandthelike,busyattheirworkorsmokingnarghilehs。Clothsstretchedfromhousetohousekeepoutthesun。Mulesrattlethroughthecrowd;
cursyelpbetweenyourlegs;negroesareashideousandbrightclothedasusual;graveTurkswithlongchibouquescontinuetomarchsolemnlywithoutbreakingthem;alittleArabinonedirtyragpokesfunattwosplendidlittleTurkswithbrilliantfezzes;
wirymountaineersindirty,full,whitekilts,shoulderinglonggunsandonehandontheirpistols,stalkuntamedpastadozenTurkishsoldiers,wholooksheepishandbrutalinwornclothjacketandcottontrousers。Aheadless,winglesslionofSt。Markstillstandsuponagate,andhasleftthemarkofhisstrongclutch。OfancienttimeswhenCretewasCrete,notatraceremains;saveperhapsinthefull,well—cutnostrilandfirmtreadofthatmountaineer,andIsuspectthatevenhissireswereAlbanians,mereouterbarbarians。
’May17。
Ispentthedayatthelittlestationwherethecablewaslanded,whichhasapparentlybeenfirstaVenetianmonasteryandthenaTurkishmosque。Atanyratethebigdomeisverycool,andthelittleoneshold[ourelectric]batteriescapitally。AhandsomeyoungBashibazoukguardsit,andastillhandsomermountaineeristheservant;soIdrawthemandthemonasteryandthehill,tillI’mblackinthefacewithheatandcomeonboardtoheartheCaneacableisstillbad。
’May23。
’WearrivedinthemorningattheeastendofCandia,andhadagloriousscrambleoverthemountainswhichseembuiltofadamant。
Timehaswornawaythesofterportionsoftherock,onlyleavingsharpjaggededgesofsteel。Seaeaglessoaringaboveourheads;
oldtanks,ruins,anddesolationatourfeet。TheancientArsinoestoodhere;afewblocksofmarblewiththecrossattestthepresenceofVenetianChristians;butnow—thedesolationofdesolations。Mr。LiddellandIseparatedfromtherest,andwhenwehadfoundasurebayforthecable,hadatremendouslivelyscramblebacktotheboat。ThesearethebitsofourlifewhichI
enjoy,whichhavesomepoetry,somegrandeurinthem。
’May29(?)。
’Yesterdayweranroundtothenewharbour[ofAlexandria],landedtheshoreendofthecableclosetoCleopatra’sbath,andmadeaverysatisfactorystartaboutoneintheafternoon。Wehadscarcelygone200yardswhenInoticedthatthecableceasedtorunout,andIwonderedwhytheshiphadstopped。Peopleranafttotellmenottoputsuchastrainonthecable;Iansweredindignantlythattherewasnostrain;andsuddenlyitbrokeoneveryoneintheshipatoncethatwewereaground。Herewasanicemess。Aviolentsciroccoblewfromtheland;makingone’sskinfeelasifitbelongedtosomeoneelseanddidn’tfit,makingthehorizondimandyellowwithfinesand,oppressingeverysenseandraisingthethermometer20degreesinanhour,butmakingcalmwaterrounduswhichenabledtheshiptolieforthetimeinsafety。Thewindmightchangeatanymoment,sincethesciroccowasonlyaccidental;andatthefirstwavefromseawardbumpwouldgothepoorship,andtherewould[might]beanendofourvoyage。
Thecaptain,withoutwaitingtosound,begantomakeanefforttoputtheshipoverwhatwassupposedtobeasandbank;butbythetimesoundingsweremade,thiswasfoundtobeimpossible,andhehadonlybeenjammingthepoorELBAfasteronarock。Noweveryeffortwasmadetogetherastern,ananchortakenout,aropebroughttoawinchIhadforthecable,andtheenginesbacked;butallinvain。AsmallTurkishGovernmentsteamer,whichistobeourconsort,cametoourassistance,butofcourseveryslowly,andmuchtimewasoccupiedbeforewecouldgetahawsertoher。I
coulddonogoodafterhavingmadeachartofthesoundingsroundtheship,andwentatlastontothebridgetosketchthescene。
ButatthatmomentthestrainfromthewinchandajerkfromtheTurkishsteamergotofftheboat,afterwehadbeensomehoursaground。Thecarpenterreportedthatshehadmadeonlytwoinchesofwaterinonecompartment;thecablewasstilluninjuredastern,andourspiritsrose;when,willyoubelieveit?aftergoingashortdistanceastern,thepilotranusoncemorefastagroundonwhatseemedtomenearlythesamespot。Theverysamescenewasgonethroughasonthefirstoccasion,anddarkcameonwhilstthewindshifted,andwewerestillaground。Dinnerwasservedup,butpoorMr。Liddellcouldeatverylittle;andbump,bump,grind,grind,wenttheshipfifteenorsixteentimesaswesatatdinner。
Theslightsea,however,didenableustobumpoff。Thismorningweappearnottohavesufferedinanyway;butaseaisrollingin,whichafewhoursagowouldhavesettledthepooroldELBA。
’June—。
’TheAlexandriacablehasagainfailed;afterpayingouttwo—thirdsofthedistancesuccessfully,anunluckytouchindeepwatersnappedtheline。LuckilytheaccidentoccurredinMr。Liddell’swatch。Thoughpersonallyitmaynotreallyconcernme,theaccidentweighslikeapersonalmisfortune。StillIamgladIwaspresent:afailureisprobablymoreinstructivethanasuccess;
andthisexperiencemayenableustoavoidmisfortuneinstillgreaterundertakings。
’June—。
’WeleftSyrathemorningafterourarrivalonSaturdaythe4th。
Thiswedid(first)becausewewereinahurrytodosomethingand(second)because,comingfromAlexandria,wehadfourdays’
quarantinetoperform。Wewereallmusteredalongthesidewhilethedoctorcountedus;theletterswerepoppedintoalittletinboxandtakenawaytobesmoked;theguardiansputonboardtoseethatweheldnocommunicationwiththeshore—withoutthemweshouldstillhavehadfourmoredays’quarantine;andwithtwelveGreeksailorsbesides,westartedmerrilyenoughpickinguptheCaneacable……Toourutterdismay,theyarncoveringbegantocomeupquitedecayed,andthecable,whichwhenlaidshouldhavebornehalfaton,wasnowindangerofsnappingwithatenthpartofthatstrain。Wewentasslowaspossibleinfearofabreakateveryinstant。Mywatchwasfromeighttotwelveinthemorning,andduringthattimewehadbarelysecuredthreemilesofcable。
Onceitbrokeinsidetheship,butIseizedholdofitintime—
theweightbeinghardlyanything—andthelineforthenoncewassaved。Regularnooseswerethenplantedinboardwithmentodrawthemtaut,shouldthecablebreakinboard。A—,whoshouldhaverelievedme,wasunwell,soIhadtocontinuemylook—out;andaboutoneo’clockthelineagainparted,butwasagaincaughtinthelastnoose,withaboutfourinchestospare。Fiveminutesafterwardsitagainpartedandwasyetoncemorecaught。Mr。
Liddell(whomIhadcalled)couldstandthisnolonger;sowebuoyedthelineandranintoabayinSiphano,waitingforcalmweather,thoughIwasbynomeansofopinionthattheslightseaandwindhadbeenthecauseofourfailures。—Allnextday(Monday)welayoffSiphano,amusingourselvesonshorewithfowlingpiecesandnavyrevolvers。Ineednotsaywekillednothing;andluckilywedidnotwoundanyofourselves。A
guardianoaccompaniedus,hisfunctionsbeinglimitedtopreventingactualcontactwiththenatives,fortheymightcomeasnearandtalkasmuchastheypleased。TheseislesofGreecearesad,interestingplaces。Theyarenotreallybarrenallover,buttheyarequitedestituteofverdure;andtuftsofthyme,wildmasticormint,thoughtheysoundwell,arenotnearlysoprettyasgrass。
Manylittlechurches,glitteringwhite,dottheislands;mostofthem,Ibelieve,abandonedduringthewholeyearwiththeexceptionofonedaysacredtotheirpatronsaint。Thevillagesaremean,buttheinhabitantsdonotlookwretchedandthemenaregoodsailors。ThereissomethinginthisGreekraceyet;theywillbecomeapowerfulLevantinenationinthecourseoftime。—Whatalovelymoonlighteveningthatwas!thebarrenislandcuttingtheclearskywithfantasticoutline,marblecliffsoneitherhandfairlygleamingoverthecalmsea。Nextday,thewindstillcontinuing,IproposedaboatingexcursionanddecoyedA—,L—,andS—intoaccompanyingme。Wetookthelittlegig,andsailedawaymerrilyenoughroundapointtoabeautifulwhitebay,flankedwithtwoglisteninglittlechurches,frontedbybeautifuldistantislands;whensuddenly,tomyhorror,IdiscoveredtheELBA
steamingfullspeedoutfromtheisland。Ofcoursewesteeredafterher;butthewindthatinstantceased,andwewereleftinadeadcalm。Therewasnothingforitbuttounshipthemast,getouttheoarsandpull。Theshipwasnearlycertaintostopatthebuoy;andIwantedtolearnhowtotakeanoar,soherewasachancewithavengeance!L—steered,andwethreepulled—abroilingpullitwasabouthalfwayacrosstoPalikandro—stillwedidcomein,pullinganuncommongoodstroke,andIhadlearnedtohangonmyoar。L—hadpressedmetolethimtakemyplace;butthoughIwasverytiredattheendofthefirstquarterofanhour,andtheneverysuccessivehalfhour,Iwouldnotgivein。Inearlypaiddearformyobstinacy,however;forintheeveningIhadalternatefitsofshiveringandburning。’
III。
Thenextextracts,andIamsorrytosaythelast,arefromFleeming’slettersof1860,whenhewasbackatBonaandSpartiventoandforthefirsttimeattheheadofanexpedition。
Unhappilytheselettersarenotonlythelast,buttheseriesisquiteimperfect;andthisisthemoretobelamentedashehadnowbeguntouseapenmoreskilfully,andinthefollowingnotesthereisattimesatouchofrealdistinctioninthemanner。
’Cagliari:October5,1860。
’AllTuesdayIspentexaminingwhatwasonboardtheELBA,andtryingtostarttherepairsoftheSpartiventolandline,whichhasbeenentirelyneglected,andnowonder,fornoonehasbeenpaidforthreemonths,no,noteventhepoorguardswhohavetokeepthemselves,theirhorsesandtheirfamilies,ontheirpay。
Wednesdaymorning,IstartedforSpartiventoandgotthereintimetotryagoodmanyexperiments。Spartiventolooksmorewildandsavagethanever,butisnotwithoutastrangedeadlybeauty:thehillscoveredwithbushesofametallicgreenwithcopperypatchesofsoilinbetween;thevalleysfilledwithdrysaltmudandalittlestagnantwater;wherethatverymorningthedeerhaddrunk,whereherons,curlews,andotherfowlabound,andwhere,alas!
malariaisbreedingwiththisrain。(Nofearforthosewhodonotsleeponshore。)Alittleironhuthadbeenplacedtheresince1858;butthewindowshadbeencarriedoff,thedoorbrokendown,theroofpiercedallover。Init,wesattomakeexperiments;andhowitrecalledBirkenhead!TherewasThomson,therewasmytestingboard,thestringsofgutta—percha;HarryP—even,batteringwiththebatteries;butwherewasmydarlingAnnie?
WhilstIsatfeetinsand,withHarryaloneinsidethehut—mats,coats,andwoodtodarkenthewindow—theothersvisitedthemurderousoldfriar,whoisoftheorderofScaloppi,andforwhomIbroughtaletterfromhissuperior,orderinghimtopayusattention;buthewasawayfromhome,gonetoCagliariinaboatwiththeproduceofthefarmbelongingtohisconvent。ThentheyvisitedthetowerofChia,butcouldnotgetinbecausethedooristhirtyfeetofftheground;sotheycamebackandpitchedamagnificenttentwhichIbroughtfromtheBAHIANAalongtimeago—
andwheretheywilllive(ifImistakenot)inpreferencetothefriar’s,ortheowl—andbat—hauntedtower。MM。T—andS—willbeleftthere:T—,anintelligent,hard—workingFrenchman,withwhomIamwellpleased;hecanspeakEnglishandItalianwell,andhasbeentwoyearsatGenoa。S—isaFrenchGermanwithafacelikeanancientGaul,whohasbeensergeant—majorintheFrenchlineandwhois,Isee,agreat,big,muscularFAINEANT。Weleftthetentpitchedandsomestoresinchargeofaguide,andranbacktoCagliari。
’Certainly,beingattheheadofthingsispleasanterthanbeingsubordinate。Weallagreeverywell;andIhavemadethetestingofficeintoakindofprivateroomwhereIcancomeandwritetoyouundisturbed,surroundedbymydear,brightbrassthingswhichallofthemremindmeofournightsatBirkenhead。ThenIcanworkhere,too,andtrylotsofexperiments;youknowhowIlikethat!
andnowandthenIread—Shakespeareprincipally。Thankyousomuchformakingmebringhim:IthinkImustgetapocketeditionofHamletandHenrytheFifth,soasnevertobewithoutthem。
’Cagliari:October7。
’[Thetownwasfull?]……ofred—shirtedEnglishGaribaldini。A
veryfinelookingsetoffellowstheyare,too:theofficersratherraffish,butwithmedalsCrimeanandIndian;themenaverysturdyset,withmanyladsofgoodbirthIshouldsay。TheystillwaittheirconsorttheEmperorandwill,Ifear,betoolatetodoanything。Imeanttohavecalledonthem,buttheyareallgoneintobarrackssomewayfromthetown,andIhavebeenmuchtoobusytogofar。
’Theviewfromtherampartswasverystrangeandbeautiful。
Cagliaririsesonaverysteeprock,atthemouthofawideplaincircledbylargehillsandthree—quartersfilledwithlagoons;itlooks,therefore,likeanoldislandcitadel。Largeheapsofsaltmarktheborderbetweentheseaandthelagoons;thousandsofflamingoeswhitenthecentreofthehugeshallowmarsh;hawkshoverandscreamamongthetreesunderthehighmoulderingbattlements。—
Alittlelowerdown,thebandplayed。Menandladiesbowedandpranced,thecostumesposed,churchbellstinkled,processionsprocessed,thesunsetbehindthickcloudscappingthehills;I
ponderedonyouandenjoyeditall。
’DecidedlyIpreferbeingmastertobeingman:boatsatallhours,stewardsflyingformarmalade,captainenquiringwhenshipistosail,clerkstocopymywriting,theboattosteerwhenwegoout—
Ihaverunhernoseonseveraltimes;decidedly,Ibegintofeelquitealittleking。Confoundthecable,though!Ishallneverbeabletorepairit。
’Bona:October14。
’WeleftCagliariat4。30onthe9thandsoongottoSpartivento。
Irepeatedsomeofmyexperiments,butfoundThomson,whowastohavebeenmygrandstand—by,wouldnotworkonthatdayinthewretchedlittlehut。Evenifthewindowsanddoorhadbeenputin,thewindwhichwasveryhighmadethelampflickeraboutandblewitout;soIsentonboardandgotoldsails,andfairlywrappedthehutupinthem;andthenwewereassnugascouldbe,andI
leftthehutingloriousconditionwithanicelittlestoveinit。
Thetentwhichshouldhavebeenforthcomingfromthecure’sfortheguards,hadgonetoCagliari;butIfoundanother,[a]green,Turkishtent,intheELBAandsoonhadhimup。Thesquaretentleftonthelastoccasionwasstandingallrightandtightinspiteofwindandrain。Welandedprovisions,twobeds,plates,knives,forks,candles,cookingutensils,andwerereadyforastartat6
P。M。;butthewindmeanwhilehadcomeontoblowatsucharatethatIthoughtbetterofit,andwestopped。T—andS—sleptashore,however,toseehowtheylikedit,atleasttheytriedtosleep,forS—theancientsergeant—majorhadatoothache,andT—
thoughtthetentwascomingdowneveryminute。Nextmorningtheycouldonlycomplainofsandandaleakycoffee—pot,soIleavethemwithagoodconscience。Thelittleencampmentlookedquitepicturesque:thegreenroundtent,thesquarewhitetentandthehutallwrappedupinsails,onasandhill,lookingontheseaandmaskingthoseconfoundedmarshesattheback。OnewouldhavethoughttheCagliaritanswereinaconspiracytofrightenthetwopoorfellows,who(Ibelieve)willbesafeenoughiftheydonotgointothemarshesafternightfall。S—broughtalittledogtoamusethem,suchajolly,uglylittlecurwithoutatail,butfulloffun;hewillbebetterthanquinine。
’Thewinddroveabarque,whichhadanchorednearusforshelter,outtosea。Westarted,however,at2P。M。,andhadaquickpassagebutaveryroughone,gettingtoBonabydaylight[onthe11th]。Suchaplaceasthisisforgettinganythingdone!Thehealthboatwentawayfromusat7。30withW—onboard;andweheardnothingofthemtill9。30,whenW—camebackwithtwofatFrenchmenwhoaretolookononthepartoftheGovernment。Theyareexactlyalike:onlyonehasfourbandsandtheotherthreeroundhiscap,andsoIknowthem。ThenIsentaboatroundtoFortGenois[FortGenovaof1858],wherethecableislanded,withallsortsofthingsanddirections,whilstIwentashoretoseeaboutcoalsandaroomatthefort。Wehuntedpeopleinthelittlesquareintheirshopsandoffices,butonlyfoundthemincafes。
Oneamiablegentlemanwasn’tupat9。30,wasoutat10,andassoonashecamebacktheservantsaidhewouldgotobedandnotgetuptill3:hecame,however,tofindusatacafe,andsaidthat,onthecontrary,twodaysintheweekhedidnotdoso!Thenmytwofatfriendsmusthavetheirbreakfastaftertheir"something"atacafe;andalltheshopsshutfrom10to2;andthepostdoesnotopentill12;andtherewasaroadtoFortGenois,onlyabridgehadbeencarriedaway,&c。AtlastIgotoff,andwerowedroundtoFortGenois,wheremymenhadputupacapitalgipsytentwithsails,andtherewasmybigboardandThomson’snumber5ingreatglory。Isooncametotheconclusiontherewasabreak。TwoofmyfaithfulCagliaritanssleptallnightinthelittletent,toguarditandmypreciousinstruments;andthesea,whichwasratherrough,silencedmyFrenchmen。
’NextdayIwentonwithmyexperiments,whilstaboatgrappledforthecablealittlewayfromshoreandbuoyeditwheretheELBA
couldgethold。IbroughtallbacktotheELBA,triedmymachineryandwasallreadyforastartnextmorning。Butthewretchedcoalhadnotcomeyet;GovernmentpermissionfromAlgierstobegot;
lighters,men,baskets,andIknownotwhatformstobegotorgotthrough—andeverybodyasleep!Coalsornocoals,Iwasdeterminedtostartnextmorning;andstartwedidatfourinthemorning,pickedupthebuoywithourdeckengine,poppedthecableacrossaboat,testedthewirestomakesurethefaultwasnotbehindus,andstartedpickingupat11。Everythingworkedadmirably,andabout2P。M。,incamethefault。Thereisnodoubtthecablewasbrokenbycoralfishers;twicetheyhavehadituptotheirownknowledge。
’Manymenhavebeenashoreto—dayandhavecomebacktipsy,andthewholeshipisinastateofquarrelfromtoptobottom,andtheywillgossipjustwithinmyhearing。Andwehavehad,moreover,threeFrenchgentlemenandaFrenchladytodinner,andIhadtoacthostandtrytomanagethemixturestotheirtaste。Thegood—
naturedlittleFrenchwomanwasmostamusing;whenIaskedherifshewouldhavesomeappletart—"MONDIEU,"withheroicresignation,"JEVEUXBIEN";oralittlePLOMBODDING—"MAISCEQUE
VOUSVOUDREZ,MONSIEUR!"
’S。S。ELBA,somewherenotfarfromBona:Oct。19。
’Yesterday[afterthreepreviousdaysofuselessgrappling]wasdestinedtobeveryeventful。Webegandredgingatdaybreakandhookedatonceeverytimeinrocks;butbycapitalluck,justasweweredecidingitwasnousetocontinueinthatplace,wehookedthecable:upitcame,wastested,andlo!anothercompletebreak,aquarterofamileoff。Iwasamazedatmyowntranquillityunderthesedisappointments,butIwasnotreallyhalfsofussyasaboutgettingacab。Well,therewasnothingforitbutgrapplingagain,and,asyoumayimagine,weweregettingaboutsixmilesfromshore。Butthewaterdidnotdeepenrapidly;weseemedtobeonthecrestofakindofsubmarinemountaininprolongationofCapedeGonde,andprettyhavocwemusthavemadewiththecrags。Whatrockswedidhook!Nosoonerwasthegrapneldownthantheshipwasanchored;andthencamesuchabusiness:ship’senginesgoing,deckenginethundering,beltslipping,fearofbreakingropes:
actuallybreakinggrapnels。Itwasalwaysanhourormorebeforewecouldgetthegrapneldownagain。Atlastwehadtogiveuptheplace,thoughweknewwewereclosetothecable,andgofurthertoseainmuchdeeperwater;tomygreatfear,asIknewthecablewasmucheatenawayandwouldstandbutlittlestrain。Well,wehookedthecablefirstdredgethistime,andpulleditslowlyandgentlytothetop,withmuchtrepidation。Wasitthecable?wasthereanyweighton?itwasevidentlytoosmall。Imaginemydismaywhenthecabledidcomeup,buthangingloosely,thus[Picture]
insteadoftaut,thus[Picture]
showingcertainsignsofabreakcloseby。ForamomentIfeltprovoked,asIthought,"Hereweareindeepwater,andthecablewillnotstandlifting!"Itestedatonce,andbytheveryfirstwirefoundithadbrokentowardsshoreandwasgoodtowardssea。
Thiswasofcourseverypleasant;butfromthattimetothis,thoughthewirestestverywell,notasignalhascomefromSpartivento。Igotthecableintoaboat,andagutta—perchalinefromtheshiptotheboat,andwesignalledawayatagreatrate—
butnosignsoflife。Thetests,however,makemeprettysureonewireatleastisgood;soIdeterminedtolaydowncablefromwhereweweretotheshore,andgotoSpartiventotoseewhathadhappenedthere。Ifearmymenareill。Thenightwaslovely,perfectlycalm;sowelayclosetotheboatandsignalswerecontinuallysent,butwithnoresult。ThismorningIlaidthecabledowntoFortGenoisinstyle;andnowwearepickingupoddsandendsofcablebetweenthedifferentbreaks,andgettingourbuoysonboard,&c。To—morrowIexpecttoleaveforSpartivento。’
IV。
AndnowIamquiteatanendofjournalkeeping;diariesanddiarylettersbeingthingsofyouthwhichFleeminghadatlengthoutgrown。Butoneortwomorefragmentsfromhiscorrespondencemaybetaken,andfirstthisbriefsketchofthelayingoftheNorderneycable;mainlyinterestingasshowingunderwhatdefectsofstrengthandinwhatextremitiesofpain,thischeerfulmanmustattimescontinuetogoabouthiswork。
’Isleptonboard29thSeptemberhavingarrangedeverythingtostartbydaybreakfromwherewelayintheroads:butatdaybreakaheavymisthungoverussothatnothingoflandorwatercouldbeseen。Atmiddayitliftedsuddenlyandawaywewentwithperfectweather,butcouldnotfindthebuoysFordeleft,thatevening。I
sawthecaptainwasnotstronginnavigation,andtookmattersnextdaymuchmoreintomyownhandsandbeforenineo’clockfoundthebuoys;(theweatherhadbeensofinewehadanchoredintheopenseanearTexel)。Ittookustilltheeveningtoreachthebuoys,getthecableonboard,testthefirsthalf,speaktoLowestoft,makethesplice,andstart。H—hadnotfinishedhisworkatNorderney,soIwasaloneonboardforReuter。Moreoverthebuoystoguideusinourcoursewerenotplaced,andthecaptainhadveryvagueideasaboutkeepinghiscourse;soIhadtodoagooddeal,andonlylaydownasIwasfortwohoursinthenight。Imanagedtorunthecourseperfectly。Everythingwentwell,andwefoundNorderneyjustwherewewanteditnextafternoon,andiftheshoreendhadbeenlaid,couldhavefinishedthereandthen,October1st。
ButwhenwegottoNorderney,wefoundtheCAROLINEwithshoreendlyingapparentlyaground,andcouldnotunderstandhersignals;sowehadtoanchorsuddenlyandIwentoffinasmallboatwiththecaptaintotheCAROLINE。Itwascoldbythistime,andmyarmwasratherstiffandIwastired;IhauledmyselfuponboardtheCAROLINEbyaropeandfoundH—andtwomenonboard。Alltherestweretryingtogettheshoreendonshore,buthadfailedandapparentlyhadstuckonshore,andthewavesweregettingup。Wehadanchoredintherightplaceandnextmorningwehopedtheshoreendwouldbelaid,sowehadonlytogoback。Itwasofcoursestillcolderandquitenight。Iwenttobedandhopedtosleep,but,alas,therheumatismgotintothejointsandcausedmeterriblepainsothatIcouldnotsleep。IboreitaslongasI
couldinordertodisturbnoone,forallweretired;butatlastI
couldbearitnolongerandmanagedtowakethestewardandgotamustardpoulticewhichtookthepainfromtheshoulder;butthentheelbowgotverybad,andIhadtocallthesecondstewardandgetasecondpoultice,andthenitwasdaylight,andIfeltveryillandfeverish。Theseawasnowratherrough—tooroughratherforsmallboats,butluckilyasortofthingcalledascootcameout,andwegotonboardherwithsometrouble,andgotonshoreafteragoodtossingaboutwhichmadeusallsea—sick。ThecablesentfromtheCAROLINEwasjust60yardstooshortanddidnotreachtheshore,soalthoughtheCAROLINEdidmakethesplicelatethatnight,wecouldneithertestnorspeak。ReuterwasatNorderney,andIhadtodothebestIcould,whichwasnotmuch,andwenttobedearly;IthoughtIshouldneversleepagain,butinsheerdesperationgotupinthemiddleofthenightandgulpedalotofrawwhiskeyandsleptatlast。Butnotlong。AMr。F—
washedmyfaceandhandsanddressedme:andwehauledthecableoutofthesea,andgotitjoinedtothetelegraphstation,andonOctober3rdtelegraphedtoLowestoftfirstandthentoLondon。
MissClaraVolkman,anieceofMr。Reuter’s,sentthefirstmessagetoMrs。Reuter,whowaswaiting(VarleyusedMissClara’shandasakindofkey),andIsentoneofthefirstmessagestoOdden。I
thoughtamessageaddressedtohimwouldnotfrightenyou,andthathewouldenjoyamessagethroughPapa’scable。Ihopehedid。
Theywereallverymerry,butIhadbeensoloweredbypainthatI
couldnotenjoymyselfinspiteofthesuccess。’
V。
Ofthe1869cruiseintheGREATEASTERN,IgivewhatIamable;
onlysorryitisnomore,forthesakeoftheshipitself,alreadyalmostalegendeventothegenerationthatsawitlaunched。
’JUNE17,1869。—HerearethenamesofourstaffinwhomIexpectyoutobeinterested,asfutureGREATEASTERNstoriesmaybefullofthem:TheophilusSmith,amanofLatimerClark’s;LeslieC。
Hill,myprizemanatUniversityCollege;LordSackvilleCecil;
King,oneoftheThomsonianKings;Laws,goesforWilloughbySmith,whowillalsobeonboard;Varley,Clark,andSirJamesAndersonmakeupthesumofallyouknowanythingof。ACaptainHalpincommandsthebigship。Therearefoursmallervessels。TheWM。
CORY,whichlaidtheNorderneycable,hasalreadygonetoSt。
Pierretolaytheshoreends。TheHAWKandCHILTERNhavegonetoBresttolayshoreends。TheHAWKandSCANDERIAgowithusacrosstheAtlanticandweshallatSt。Pierrebetranshippedintooneortheother。
’JUNE18。SOMEWHEREINLONDON。—Theshoreendislaid,asyoumayhaveseen,andweareallunderpressingorderstomarch,sowestartfromLondonto—nightat5。10。
’June20。OFFUSHANT。—Iamgettingquitefondofthebigship。
Yesterdaymorninginthequietsunlight,sheturnedsoslowlyandlazilyinthegreatharbouratPortland,andbyeandbyeslippedoutpastthelongpierwithsolittlestir,thatIcouldhardlybelievewewerereallyoff。Nomendrunk,nowomencrying,nosingingorswearing,noconfusionorbustleondeck—nobodyapparentlyawarethattheyhadanythingtodo。Thelookofthethingwasthattheshiphadbeenspokentocivillyandhadkindlyundertakentodoeverythingthatwasnecessarywithoutanyfurtherinterference。Ihaveanicecabinwithplentyofroomformylegsinmyberthandhaveslepttwonightslikeatop。Thenwehavetheladies’cabinsetapartasanengineer’soffice,andIthinkthisdecidedlythenicestplaceintheship:35ft。x20ft。broad—
fourtables,threegreatmirrors,plentyofairandnoheatfromthefunnelswhichspoilthegreatdining—room。Isawawholelibraryofbooksonthewallswhenherelast,andthismademelessanxioustoprovidelightliterature;butalas,to—dayIfindthattheyareeveryonebiblesorprayer—books。Nowonecannotreadmanyhundredbibles……Asforthemotionoftheshipitisnotverymuch,but’twillsuffice。Thomsonshookhandsandwishedmewell。IDOlikeThomson……TellAustinthattheGREATEASTERN
hassixmastsandfourfunnels。WhenIgetbackIwillmakealittlemodelofherforallthechicksandpayoutcottonreels……Hereweareat4。20atBrest。Weleaveprobablyto—morrowmorning。
’JULY12。GREATEASTERN。—HereasIwritewerunourlastcourseforthebuoyattheSt。Pierreshoreend。Itblowsandlightens,andourgoodshiprolls,andbuoysarehardtofind;butwemustsoonnowfinishourwork,andthenthisletterwillstartforhome……Yesterdayweweremournfullygropingourwaythroughthewetgreyfog,notatallsurewherewewere,withoneconsortlostandtheotherfaintlyansweringtheroarofourgreatwhistlethroughthemist。Astotheshipwhichwastomeetus,andpioneerusupthedeepchannel,wedidnotknowifweshouldcomewithintwentymilesofher;whensuddenlyupwentthefog,outcamethesun,andthere,straightahead,wastheWM。CORY,ourpioneer,andalittledancingboat,theGULNARE,sendingsignalsofwelcomewithmany—
colouredflags。Sincethenwehavebeensteaminginagrandprocession;butnowat2A。M。thefoghasfallen,andthegreatroaringwhistlecallsupthedistantansweringnotesallaroundus。
Shallwe,orshallwenotfindthebuoy?
’JULY13。—Allyesterdaywelayinthedampdrippingfog,withwhistlesallroundandgunsfiringsothatwemightnotbumpupagainstoneanother。Thislittledelayhasletusgetourreportsintotolerableorder。Wearenowat7o’clockgettingthecableendagain,withthemaincablebuoyclosetous。’
ATELEGRAMOFJULY20:’Ihavereceivedyourfourwelcomeletters。
TheAmericansarecharmingpeople。’
VI。
AndheretomakeanendareafewrandombitsaboutthecruisetoPernambuco:—
’PLYMOUTH,JUNE21,1873。—Ihavebeendowntothesea—shoreandsmeltthesaltseaandlikeit;andIhaveseentheHOOPERpointinghergreatbowsea—ward,whilelightsmokerisesfromherfunnelstellingthatthefiresarebeinglighted;andsorryasIamtobewithoutyou,somethinginsidemeanswerstothecalltobeoffanddoing。
’LALLAROOKH。PLYMOUTH,JUNE22。—WehavebeenalittlecruiseintheyachtovertotheEddystonelighthouse,andmysea—legsseemverywellon。Strangehowalikeallthesestartsare—firstonshore,steaminghotdayswithasmellofbone—dustandtarandsaltwater;thenthelittlepuffing,pantingsteam—launchthatbustlesoutacrossaportwithgreenwoodysides,littleyachtsslidingabout,men—of—wartraining—ships,andthenagreatbigblackhulkofathingwithamassofsmallervesselsstickingtoitlikeparasites;andthatisone’shomebeingcoaled。ThencomestheChampagnelunchwhereeveryonesaysallthatispolitetoeveryoneelse,andthentheuncertaintywhentostart。SofarasweknowNOW,wearetostartto—morrowmorningatdaybreak;lettersthatcomelateraretobesenttoPernambucobyfirstmail……MyfatherhassentmetheheartiestsortofJackTar’scheer。
’S。S。HOOPER。OFFFUNCHAL,JUNE29。—HereweareoffMadeiraatseveno’clockinthemorning。Thomsonhasbeensoundingwithhisspecialtoyeversincehalf—pastthree(1087fathomsofwater)。I
havebeenwatchingthedaybreak,andlongjaggedislandsstartintobeingoutofthedullnight。Wearestillsomemilesfromland;buttheseaiscalmerthanLochEiloftenwas,andthebigHOOPERrestsverycontentedlyafterapleasantvoyageandfavourablebreezes。Ihavenotbeenabletodoanyrealworkexceptthetesting[ofthecable],forthoughnotsea—sick,IgetalittlegiddywhenItrytothinkonboard……Theduckshavejusthadtheirdailysouseandarequackingandgabblinginamightywayoutsidethedoorofthecaptain’sdeckcabinwhereI
write。Thecocksarecrowing,andnew—laideggsaresaidtobefoundinthecoops。Fourmildoxenhavebeenuntetheredandallowedtowalkalongthebroadirondecks—awholedroveofsheepseemquitecontentwhilelickingbiglumpsofbaysalt。Twoexceedinglyimpertinentgoatsleadthecookaperfectlifeofmisery。TheystealroundthegalleyandWILLnibblethecarrotsorturnipsifhisbackisturnedforoneminute;andthenhethrowssomethingatthemandmissesthem;andtheyscuttleofflaughingimpudently,andflickoneearathimfromasafedistance。ThisisthemostimpudentgestureIeversaw。Winkingisnothingtoit。