Feelsomeoftheworstofit,Isay;forsomeoftherestoftheworstis,bythissimplefaith,excluded。
Itwasintheyear1868,thatthecloudsfinallyrose。ThebusinessinpartnershipwithMr。Fordebegansuddenlytopaywell;
aboutthesametimethepatentsshowedthemselvesavaluableproperty;andbutalittleafter,FleemingwasappointedtothenewchairofengineeringintheUniversityofEdinburgh。Thus,almostatonce,pecuniaryembarrassmentspassedforeveroutofhislife。
HereishisownepiloguetothetimeatClaygate,andhisanticipationsofthefutureinEdinburgh。
’……ThedearoldhouseatClaygateisnotletandtheprettygardenamassofweeds。Ifeelratherasifwehadbehavedunkindlytothem。Wewereveryhappythere,butnowthatitisoverIamconsciousoftheweightofanxietyastomoneywhichI
boreallthetime。Withyouinthegarden,withAustininthecoach—house,withprettysongsinthelittle,lowwhiteroom,withthemoonlightinthedearroomup—stairs,ah,itwasperfect;butthelongwalk,wondering,pondering,fearing,scheming,andthedustyjoltingrailway,andthehorridfustyofficewithitsendlessdisappointments,theyarewellgone。Itiswellenoughtofightandschemeandbustleaboutintheeagercrowdhere[inLondon]forawhilenowandthen,butnotforalifetime。WhatIhavenowisjustperfect。Studyforwinter,actionforsummer,lovelycountryforrecreation,apleasanttownfortalk……’
CHAPTERV。—NOTESOFTELEGRAPHVOYAGES,1858TO1873。
BUTitisnowtimetoseeJenkinathislife’swork。Ihavebeforemecertainimperfectseriesofletterswritten,ashesays,’athazard,foronedoesnotknowatthetimewhatisimportantandwhatisnot’:theearlieraddressedtoMissAustin,afterthebetrothal;thelatertoMrs。Jenkintheyoungwife。IshouldpremisethatIhaveallowedmyselfcertaineditorialfreedoms,leavingoutandsplicingtogethermuchashehimselfdidwiththeBonacable:thuseditedthelettersspeakforthemselves,andwillfailtointerestnonewholoveadventureoractivity。Addressedastheyweretoherwhomhecalledhis’dearengineeringpupil,’theygiveapictureofhisworksoclearthatachildmayunderstand,andsoattractivethatIamhalfafraidtheirpublicationmayproveharmful,andstillfurthercrowdtheranksofaprofessionalreadyovercrowded。Buttheirmostengagingqualityisthepictureofthewriter;withhisindomitableself—confidenceandcourage,hisreadinessineverypinchofcircumstanceorchangeofplan,andhiseverfreshenjoymentofthewholewebofhumanexperience,nature,adventure,science,toilandrest,societyandsolitude。Itshouldbeborneinmindthatthewriterofthesebuoyantpageswas,evenwhilehewrote,harassedbyresponsibility,stintedinsleepandoftenstrugglingwiththeprostrationofsea—sickness。Tothislastenemy,whichheneverovercame,Ihaveomitted,inmysearchaftercondensation,agoodmanyreferences;iftheywereallleft,suchwastheman’stemper,theywouldnotrepresentonehundredthpartofwhathesuffered,forhewasnevergiventocomplaint。Butindeedhehadmetthisuglytrifle,ashemeteverythwartcircumstanceoflife,withacertainpleasureofpugnacity;andsuffereditnottocheckhim,whetherintheexerciseofhisprofessionorthepursuitofamusement。
I。
’Birkenhead:April18,1858。
’Well,youshouldknow,Mr。—havingacontracttolaydownasubmarinetelegraphfromSardiniatoAfricafailedthreetimesintheattempt。Thedistancefromlandtolandisabout140miles。
Onthefirstoccasion,afterproceedingsome70miles,hehadtocutthecable—thecauseIforget;hetriedagain,sameresult;
thenpickedupabout20milesofthelostcable,splicedonanewpiece,andverynearlygotacrossthattime,butranshortofcable,andwhenbutafewmilesoffGalitainverydeepwater,hadtotelegraphtoLondonformorecabletobemanufacturedandsentoutwhilsthetriedtosticktotheend:forfivedays,Ithink,helaytheresendingandreceivingmessages,butheavyweathercomingonthecablepartedandMr。—wenthomeindespair—atleastIshouldthinkso。
’Hethenappliedtothoseeminentengineers,R。S。Newall&Co。,whomadeandlaiddownacableforhimlastautumn—FleemingJenkin(atthetimeinconsiderablementalagitation)havingthehonouroffittingouttheELBAforthatpurpose。’[Onthisoccasion,theELBAhasnocabletolay;but]’isgoingoutinthebeginningofMaytoendeavourtofishupthecablesMr。—lost。
Therearetwoendsatorneartheshore:thethirdwillprobablynotbefoundwithin20milesfromland。Oneoftheseendswillbepassedoveraverybigpulleyorsheaveatthebows,passedsixtimesroundabigbarrelordrum;whichwillbeturnedroundbyasteamengineondeck,andthuswindupthecable,whiletheELBA
slowlysteamsahead。Thecableisnotwoundroundandroundthedrumasyoursilkiswoundonitsreel,butonthecontrarynevergoesroundmorethansixtimes,goingoffatonesideasitcomesonattheother,andgoingdownintotheholdoftheELBAtobecoiledalonginabigcoilorskein。
’IwentdowntoGatesheadtodiscusswithMr。Newalltheformwhichthistolerablysimpleideashouldtake,andhavebeenbusysinceI
cameheredrawing,ordering,andputtingupthemachinery—
uninterferedwith,thankgoodness,byanyone。IownIlikeresponsibility;itflattersoneandthen,yourfathermightsay,I
havemoretogainthantolose。MoreoverIdolikethisbloodless,painlesscombatwithwoodandiron,forcingthestubbornrascalstodomywill,lickingtheclumsycubsintoanactiveshape,seeingthechildofto—day’sthoughtworkingto—morrowinfullvigourathisappointedtask。
’May12。
’Bydintofbribing,bullying,cajoling,andgoingdaybydaytoseethestateofthingsordered,allmyworkisverynearlyreadynow;butthosewhohaveneglectedtheseprecautionsareofcoursedisappointed。Fivehundredfathomsofchain[were]orderedby—
somethreeweekssince,tobereadybythe10thwithoutfail;hesendsforitto—day—150fathomsalltheycanletushavebythe15th—andhowtherestistobegot,whoknows?Heorderedaboatamonthsinceandyesterdaywecouldseenothingofherbutthekeelandabouttwoplanks。Icouldmultiplyinstanceswithoutend。
Atfirstonegoesnearlymadwithvexationatthesethings;butonefindssosoonthattheyaretherule,thatthenitbecomesnecessarytofeignarageonedoesnotfeel。Ilookuponitasthenaturalorderofthings,thatifIorderathing,itwillnotbedone—ifbyaccidentitgetsdone,itwillcertainlybedonewrong:theonlyremedybeingtowatchtheperformanceateverystage。
’To—daywasagrandfield—day。Ihadsteamupandtriedtheengineagainstpressureorresistance。Onepartofthemachineryisdrivenbyabeltorstrapofleather。Ialwayshadmydoubtsthismightslip;andsoitdid,wildly。Ihadmadeprovisionfordoublingit,puttingontwobeltsinsteadofone。Nouse—offtheywent,slippingroundandoffthepulleysinsteadofdrivingthemachinery。Tightenthem—nouse。Morestrengththere—downwiththelever—smashsomething,tearthebelts,butgetthemtight—nowthen,standclear,onwiththesteam;—andthebeltsslipawayasifnothingheldthem。Menbegintolookqueer;thecircleofquidnuncsmakesageremarks。Oncemore—nouse。I
begintoknowIoughttofeelsheepishandbeat,butsomehowIfeelcockyinstead。Ilaughandsay,"Well,Iamboundtobreaksomethingdown"—andsuddenlysee。"Oho,there’stheplace;getweightonthere,andthebeltwon’tslip。"Withmuchlabour,ongothebeltsagain。"Nowthen,asparthro’thereandsixmen’sweighton;mindyou’renotcarriedaway。"—"Ay,ay,sir。"Butevidentlynoonebelievesintheplan。"Hurrah,roundshegoes—
sticktoyourspar。Allright,shutoffsteam。"Andthedifficultyisvanquished。
’Thisorsuchasthis(notalwaysquitesobad)occurshourafterhour,whilefivehundredtonsofcoalarerattlingdownintotheholdsandbunkers,rivetersaremakingtheirinfernalrowallround,andriggersbendthesailsandfittherigging:—asortofPandemonium,itappearedtoyoungMrs。Newall,whowashereonMondayandhalf—chokedwithguano;butitsuitsthelikeso’me。
’S。S。ELBA,RiverMersey:May17。
’Wearedelayedintheriverbysomeoftheship’spapersnotbeingready。Suchasceneatthedockgates。Notasailorwilljointillthelastmoment;andthen,justastheshipforgesaheadthroughthenarrowpass,bedsandbaggageflyonboard,themenhalftipsyclutchattherigging,thecaptainswears,thewomenscreamandsob,thecrowdcheerandlaugh,whileoneortwoprettylittlegirlsstandstillandcryoutright,regardlessofalleyes。
’Thesetwodaysofcomparativepeacehavequitesetmeonmylegsagain。Iwasgettingwornandwearywithanxietyandwork。AsusualIhavebeendelightedwithmyshipwrights。IgavethemsomebeeronSaturday,makingashortoration。To—daywhentheywentashoreandIcameonboard,theygavethreecheers,whetherformeortheshipIhardlyknow,butIhadjustbidthemgood—bye,andtheshipwasoutofhail;butIwasstartledandhardlylikedtoclaimthecomplimentbyacknowledgingit。
’S。S。ELBA:May25。
’Myfirstintentionsofalongjournalhavebeenfairlyfrustratedbysea—sickness。OnTuesdaylastaboutnoonwestartedfromtheMerseyinverydirtyweather,andwerehardlyoutoftheriverwhenwemetagalefromthesouth—westandaheavysea,bothrightinourteeth;andthepoorELBAhadasadshaking。HadInotbeenverysea—sick,thesightwouldhavebeenexcitingenough,asIsatwrappedinmyoilskinsonthebridge;[but]inspiteofallmyeffortstotalk,toeat,andtogrin,Isooncollapsedintoimbecility;andIwasheartilythankfultowardseveningtofindmyselfinbed。
’Nextmorning,Ifancieditgrewquieterand,asIlistened,heard,"Letgotheanchor,"whereonIconcludedwehadrunintoHolyheadHarbour,aswasindeedthecase。AllthatdaywelayinHolyhead,butIcouldneitherreadnorwritenordraw。Thecaptainofanothersteamerwhichhadputincameonboard,andweallwentforawalkonthehill;andintheeveningtherewasanexchangeofpresents。WegavesometobaccoIthink,andreceivedacat,twopoundsoffreshbutter,aCumberlandham,WESTWARDHO!andThackeray’sENGLISHHUMOURISTS。Iwasastonishedatreceivingtwosuchfairbooksfromthecaptainofalittlecoastingscrew。Ourcaptainsaidhe[thecaptainofthescrew]hadplentyofmoney,fiveorsixhundredayearatleast。—"Whatintheworldmakeshimgorollingaboutinsuchacraft,then?"—"Why,Ifancyhe’sreckless;he’sdesperateinlovewiththatgirlImentioned,andshewon’tlookathim。"Ourhonest,fat,oldcaptainsaysthisverygrimlyinhisthick,broadvoice。
’Myheadwon’tstandmuchwritingyet,soIwillrunupandtakealookatthebluenightskyoffthecoastofPortugal。
’May26。
’Aniceladofsometwoandtwenty,A—byname,goesoutinanondescriptcapacityaspartpurser,parttelegraphclerk,partgenerallyusefulperson。A—wasagreatcomfortduringthemiseries[ofthegale];forwhenwithadeadheadwindandaheavysea,plates,books,papers,stomachswerebeingrolledaboutinsadconfusion,wegenerallymanagedtolieonourbacks,andgrin,andtrydiscordantstavesoftheFLOWERSOFTHEFORESTandtheLOW—
BACKEDCAR。Wecouldsingandlaugh,whenwecoulddonothingelse;thoughA—wasreadytoswearaftereachfitwaspast,thatthatwasthefirsttimehehadfeltanything,andatthismomentwoulddeclareinbroadScotchthathe’dneverbeensickatall,qualifyingtheoathwith"exceptforaminutenowandthen。"Hebroughtacornet—a—pistontopracticeon,havinghadthreeweeks’
instructionsonthatmelodiousinstrument;andifyoucouldhearthehorridsoundsthatcome!especiallyatheavyrolls。WhenI
hintheisnotimproving,therecomesaconfession:"Idon’tfeelquiterightyet,yousee!"Butheblowsawaymanfully,andinself—defenceItrytoroarthetunelouder。
’11:30P。M。
’LongpastCapeSt。Vincentnow。Wewentwithinabout400yardsofthecliffsandlight—houseinacalmmoonlight,withporpoisesspringingfromthesea,themencrooninglongballadsastheylayidleontheforecastleandthesailsflappinguncertainontheyards。Aswepassed,therecameasuddenbreezefromland,hotandheavyscented;andnowasIwriteitswarmrichflavourcontrastsstronglywiththesaltairwehavebeenbreathing。
’IpacedthedeckwithH—,thesecondmate,andinthequietnightdrewaconfessionthathewasengagedtobemarried,andgavehimaworldofgoodadvice。Heisaverynice,active,littlefellow,withabroadScotchtongueand"dirty,littlerascal"appearance。
Hehadasaddisappointmentatstarting。Havingbeensecondmateonthelastvoyage,whenthefirstmatewasdischarged,hetookchargeoftheELBAallthetimeshewasinport,andofcourselookedforwardtobeingchiefmatethistrip。Liddellpromisedhimthepost。Hehadnotauthoritytodothis;andwhenNewallheardofit,heappointedanotherman。FancypoorH—havingtoldallthemenandmostofall,hissweetheart。Butmoreremainsbehind;forwhenitcametosigningarticles,itturnedoutthatO—,thenewfirstmate,hadnotacertificatewhichallowedhimtohaveasecondmate。Thencameratheranaffectingscene。ForH—proposedtosignaschief(hehavingthenecessaryhighercertificate)buttoactassecondforthelowerwages。AtfirstO—wouldnotgivein,butofferedtogoassecond。ButourbravelittleH—said,no:
"TheownerswishedMr。O—tobechiefmate,andchiefmateheshouldbe。"Sohecarriedtheday,signedaschiefandactsassecond。ShakespeareandByronarehisfavouritebooks。IwalkedintoByronalittle,butcanwellunderstandhisstirringuparough,youngsailor’sromance。IlenthimWESTWARDHOfromthecabin;buttomyastonishmenthedidnotcaremuchforit;hesaiditsmeltoftheshillingrailwaylibrary;perhapsIhadpraisedittoohighly。Scottishisstandardfornovels。Iamveryhappytofindgoodtastebynomeansconfinedtogentlemen,H—havingnopretensionstothattitle。Heisamanaftermyownheart。
’ThenIcamedowntothecabinandheardyoungA—’sschemesforthefuture。HishighestpictureisacommissioninthePrinceofVizianagram’sirregularhorse。HiseldestbrotheristutortohisHighness’schildren,andgrandvizier,andmagistrate,andonhisHighness’shouseholdstaff,andseemstobeoneofthoseScotchadventurersonemeetswithandhearsofinqueerberths—raisingcavalry,buildingpalaces,andusingsomepettyEasternking’slongpursewiththeirlongScotchheads。
’OffBona;June4。
’Ireadyourlettercarefully,leaningbackinaMalteseboattopresentthesmallestsurfaceofmybodytoagrillingsun,andsailingfromtheELBAtoCapeHamrahaboutthreemilesdistant。
Howwefriedandsighed!Atlast,wereachedlandunderFortGenova,andIwascarriedashorepick—a—back,andpluckedthefirstflowerIsawforAnnie。Itwasastrangescene,farmorenovelthanIhadimagined:thehigh,steepbankscoveredwithrich,spicyvegetationofwhichIhardlyknewoneplant。Thedwarfpalmwithfan—likeleaves,growingabouttwofeethigh,formedthestapleoftheverdure。Aswebrushedthroughthem,thegummyleavesofacistusstucktotheclothes;andwithitssmallwhiteflowerandyellowheart,stoodforourEnglishdog—rose。Inplaceofheather,wehadmyrtleandlentisquewithleavessomewhatsimilar。Thatlargebulbwithlongflatleaves?Donottouchitifyourhandsarecut;theArabsuseitasblistersfortheirhorses。Isthatthesamesort?No,takethatoneup;itisthebulbofadwarfpalm,eachlayeroftheonionpeelsoff,brownandnetted,liketheoutsideofacocoa—nut。Itisacleverplantthat;fromtheleaveswegetavegetablehorsehair;—andeatthebottomofthecentrespike。Alltheleavesyoupullhavethesamearomaticscent。Butherealittlepatchofclearedgroundshowsoldfriends,whoseemtoclingbyabusedcivilisation:—fine,hardythistles,oneofthembrightyellow,though;—honest,Scotch—
looking,largedaisiesorgowans;—potatoeshereandthere,lookingbutsickly;anddarksturdyfig—treeslookingcoolandattheireaseintheburningsun。
’HereweareatFortGenova,crowningthelittlepoint,asmalloldbuilding,duetomyoldGenoeseacquaintancewhofoughtandtradedbravelyonceuponatime。Abrokencannonoftheirsformsthethreshold;andthroughadark,lowarch,weenteruponbroadterracesslopingtothecentre,fromwhichrainwatermaycollectandrunintothatwell。Large—breechedFrenchtroopersloungeaboutandaremostcivil;andthewholepartysitdowntobreakfastinalittlewhite—washedroom,fromthedoorofwhichthelong,mountaincoastlineandthesparklingseashowofanimpossiblebluethroughtheopeningsofawhite—washedrampart。Itryasea—egg,oneofthosepricklyfellows—sea—urchins,theyarecalledsometimes;theshellisofalovelypurple,andwhenopened,thereareraysofyellowadheringtotheinside;theseIeat,buttheyareveryfishy。
’Wearesilentandshyofoneanother,andsoongoouttowatchwhileturbaned,blue—breeched,bareleggedArabsdigholesforthelandtelegraphpostsonthefollowingprinciple:onemantakesapickandbangslazilyatthehardearth;whenalittleisloosened,hismatewithasmallspadeliftsitononeside;andDACAPO。
Theyhaveregularfeaturesandlookquiteinplaceamongthepalms。
OurEnglishworkmenscrewtheearthenwareinsulatorsontheposts,strainthewire,andorderArabsaboutbythegenerictermofJohnny。IfindW—hasnothingformetodo;andthatinfactnoonehasanythingtodo。SomeinstrumentsfortestinghavestuckatLyons,someatCagliari;andnothingcanbedone—oratanyrate,isdone。Iwanderabout,thinkingofyouandstaringatbig,greengrasshoppers—locusts,somepeoplecallthem—andsmellingtherichbrushwood。Therewasnothingforapenciltosketch,andI
soongottiredofthiswork,thoughIhavepaidwillinglymuchmoneyforfarlessstrangeandlovelysights。
’OffCapeSpartivento:June8。
’Attwothismorning,weleftCagliari;atfivecastanchorhere。
Igotupandbeganpreparingforthefinaltrial;andshortlyafterwardseveryoneelseofnoteonboardwentashoretomakeexperimentsonthestateofthecable,leavingmewiththeprospectofbeginningtoliftat12o’clock。Iwasnotreadybythattime;
buttheexperimentswerenotconcludedandmoreoverthecablewasfoundtobeimbeddedsomefourorfivefeetinsand,sothattheboatcouldnotbringofftheend。Atthree,Messrs。Liddell,&c。,cameonboardingoodspirits,havingfoundtwowiresgoodorinsuchastateaspermittedmessagestobetransmittedfreely。TheboatnowwenttograppleforthecablesomewayfromshorewhiletheELBAtowedasmalllateencraftwhichwastotakebacktheconsultoCagliarisomedistanceonitsway。Onourreturnwefoundtheboathadbeenunsuccessful;shewasallowedtodropastern,whilewegrappledforthecableintheELBA[withoutmoresuccess]。Thecoastisalowmountainrangecoveredwithbrushwoodorheather—poolsofwaterandasandybeachattheirfeet。I
havenotyetbeenashore,myhandshavingbeenveryfullallday。
’June9。
’Grapplingforthecableoutsidethebankhadbeenvotedtoouncertain;[andthedaywasspentin]effortstopullthecableoffthroughthesandwhichhasaccumulatedoverit。Bygettingthecabletightontotheboat,andlettingtheswellpitchherabouttillitgotslack,andthentighteningagainwithblocksandpulleys,wemanagedtogetoutfromthebeachtowardstheshipattherateofabouttwentyyardsanhour。Whentheyhadgotabout100yardsfromshore,weranroundintheELBAtotryandhelpthem,lettinggotheanchorintheshallowestpossiblewater,thiswasaboutsunset。Suddenlysomeonecallsoutheseesthecableatthebottom:thereitwassureenough,apparentlywrigglingaboutasthewavesrippled。Greatexcitement;stillgreaterwhenwefindourownanchorisfoulofitandhasbeenthemeansofbringingittolight。Weletgoagrapnel,getthecableclearoftheanchorontothegrapnel—thecaptaininanagonylestweshoulddriftashoremeanwhile—handthegrapplinglineintothebigboat,steamoutfarenough,andanchoragain。Alittlemoreworkandoneendofthecableisupoverthebowsroundmydrum。Igotomyengineandwestarthaulingin。Allgoesprettywell,butitisquitedark。Lampsaregotatlast,andmenarranged。Wegoonforaquarterofamileorsofromshoreandthenstopatabouthalf—pastninewithorderstobeupatthree。Grandworkatlast!AnumberoftheSATURDAYREVIEWhere;itreadssohotandfeverish,sotomblikeandunhealthy,inthemidstofdearNature’shillsandsea,withgoodwholesomeworktodo。Praythatallgowellto—
morrow。
’June10。
’Thankheavenforamostfortunateday。Atthreeo’clockthismorninginadamp,chillmistallhandswererousedtowork。Withasmalldelay,foroneortwoimprovementsIhadseentobenecessarylastnight,theenginestartedandsincethattimeIdonotthinktherehasbeenhalfanhour’sstoppage。Aropetosplice,ablocktochange,awheeltooil,anoldrustedanchortodisengagefromthecablewhichbroughtitup,thesehavebeenouronlyobstructions。Sixty,seventy,eighty,ahundred,ahundredandtwentyrevolutionsatlast,mylittleenginetearsaway。Theevenblackropecomesstraightoutoftheblueheavingwater:
passesslowlyroundanopen—hearted,good—temperedlookingpulley,fivefeetdiameter;aftpastaviciousnipper,tobringallupshouldanythinggowrong;throughagentleguide;ontoahugebluffdrum,whowrapshimroundhisbodyandsays"Comeyoumust,"
asplainasdrumcanspeak:thechatteringpaulssay"I’vegothim,I’vegothim,hecan’tgetback:"whilstblackcable,muchslackerandeasierinmindandbody,istakenbyaslimV—pulleyandpasseddownintothehugehold,wherehalfadozenmenputhimcomfortablytobedafterhisexertioninrisingfromhislongbath。
Ingoodsooth,itisoneofthestrangestsightsIknowtoseethatblackfellowrisingupsosteadilyinthemidstofthebluesea。
Wearemorethanhalfwaytotheplacewhereweexpectthefault;
andalreadytheonewire,supposedpreviouslytobequitebadneartheAfricancoast,canbespokenthrough。IamverygladIamhere,formymachinesaremyownchildrenandIlookontheirlittlefailingswithaparent’seyeandleadthemintothepathofdutywithgentlenessandfirmness。Iamnaturallyingoodspirits,butkeepveryquiet,formisfortunesmayariseatanyinstant;
moreoverto—morrowmypaying—outapparatuswillbewantedshouldallgowell,andthatwillbeanothernervousoperation。Fifteenmilesaresafelyin;butnooneknowsbetterthanIdothatnothingisdonetillallisdone。
’June11。
’9A。M。—Wehavereachedthesplicesupposedtobefaulty,andnofaulthasbeenfound。Thetwomenlearnedinelectricity,L—andW—,squabblewherethefaultis。
’EVENING。—Awearydayinahotbroilingsun;noair。Aftertheexperiments,L—saidthefaultmightbetenmilesahead:bythattime,weshouldbeaccordingtoachartinaboutathousandfathomsofwater—rathermorethanamile。Itwasmostdifficulttodecidewhethertogoonornot。Imadepreparationsforaheavypull,setsmallthingstorightsandwenttosleep。Aboutfourintheafternoon,Mr。Liddelldecidedtoproceed,andwearenow(atseven)grindingitinattherateofamileandthree—quartersperhour,whichappearsagrandspeedtous。Ifthepaying—outonlyworkswell!Ihavejustthoughtofagreatimprovementinit;I
can’tapplyitthistime,however。—Theseaisofanoilycalm,andaperfectfleetofbrigsandshipssurroundsus,theirsailshardlyfillinginthelazybreeze。ThesunsetsbehindthedimcoastoftheIsolaSanPietro,thecoastofSardiniahighandruggedbecomessofterandsofterinthedistance,whiletothewestwardstilltheisolatedrockofTorospringsfromthehorizon。
—Itwouldamuseyoutoseehowcool(inhead)andjollyeverybodyis。Atestywordnowandthenshowsthewiresarestrainedalittle,buteveryonelaughsandmakeshislittlejokesasifitwereallinfun:yetweareallasmuchinearnestasthemostearnestoftheearnestbastardGermanschoolordemonstrativeofFrenchmen。Ienjoyitverymuch。
’June12。
’5。30A。M。—Outofsightofland:aboutthirtynauticalmilesinthehold;thewindrisingalittle;experimentsbeingmadeforafault,whiletheengineslowlyrevolvestokeepushangingatthesamespot:depthsupposedaboutamile。Themachineryhasbehavedadmirably。Oh!thatthepaying—outwereover!Thenewmachinerythereisbutrough,meantforanexperimentinshallowwater,andhereweareinamileofwater。
’6。30。—Ihavemademycalculationsandfindthenewpaying—outgearcannotpossiblyansweratthisdepth,someportionwouldgiveway。Luckily,Ihavebroughttheoldthingswithmeandamgettingthemriggedupasfastasmaybe。Badnewsfromthecable。Numberfourhasgiveninsomeportionofthelasttenmiles:thefaultinnumberthreeisstillatthebottomofthesea:numbertwoisnowtheonlygoodwireandtheholdisgettinginsuchamess,throughkeepingbadbitsoutandcuttingforsplicingandtesting,thattherewillbegreatriskinpayingout。Thecableissomewhatstrainedinitsascentfromonemilebelowus;whatitwillbewhenwegettotwomilesisaproblemwemayhavetodetermine。
’9P。M。—Amostprovokingunsatisfactoryday。Wehavedonenothing。Thewindandseahavebothrisen。Toolittlenoticehasbeengiventothetelegraphistswhoaccompanythisexpedition;theyhadtoleavealltheirinstrumentsatLyonsinordertoarriveatBonaintime;ourtestsarethereforeoftheroughest,andnoonereallyknowswherethefaultsare。Mr。L—inthemorninglostmuchtime;thenhetoldus,afterwehadbeeninactiveforabouteighthours,thatthefaultinnumberthreewaswithinsixmiles;andatsixo’clockintheevening,whenallwasreadyforastarttopickupthesesixmiles,hecomesandsaystheremustbeafaultaboutthirtymilesfromBona!Bythistimeitwastoolatetobeginpayingouttoday,andwemustlieheremooredinathousandfathomstilllightto—morrowmorning。Theshippitchesagooddeal,butthewindisgoingdown。
’June13,Sunday。
’Thewindhasnotgonedown,however。Itnow(at10。30)blowsaprettystiffgale,theseahasalsorisen;andtheELBA’Sbowsriseandfallabout9feet。Wemaketwelvepitchestotheminute,andthepoorcablemustfeelverysea—sickbythistime。Wearequiteunabletodoanything,andcontinueridingatanchorinonethousandfathoms,theenginesgoingconstantlysoastokeeptheship’sbowsuptothecable,whichbythismeanshangsnearlyverticalandsustainsnostrainbutthatcausedbyitsownweightandthepitchingofthevessel。Wewereallupatfour,buttheweatherentirelyforbadeworkforto—day,sosomewenttobedandmostlaydown,makingupourleewayaswenauticallytermourlossofsleep。ImustsayLiddellisafinefellowandkeepshispatienceandtemperwonderfully;andyethowhedoesfretandfumeabouttriflesathome!Thiswindhasblownnowfor36hours,andyetwehavetelegramsfromBonatosaytheseathereisascalmasamirror。Itmakesonelaughtorememberoneisstilltiedtotheshore。Click,click,click,thepeckerisatwork:IwonderwhatHerrP—saystoHerrL—,—tests,tests,tests,nothingmore。Thiswillbeaveryanxiousday。
’June14。
’Anotherdayoffatalinaction。
’June15。
’9。30。—Thewindhasgonedownadeal;butevennowtherearedoubtswhetherweshallstartto—day。WhenshallIgetbacktoyou?
’9P。M。—Fourmilesfromland。Ourrunhasbeensuccessfulandeventless。NowtheworkisnearlyoverIfeelalittleoutofspirits—why,Ishouldbepuzzledtosay—merewantonness,orreactionperhapsaftersuspense。
’June16。
’Upthismorningatthree,coupledmyself—actinggeartothebrakeandhadthesatisfactionofseeingitpayoutthelastfourmilesinverygoodstyle。Withoneortwolittleimprovements,Ihopetomakeitacapitalthing。Theendhasjustgoneashoreintwoboats,threeoutoffourwiresgood。Thusendsourfirstexpedition。BysomeoddchanceaTIMESofJunethe7thhasfounditswayonboardthroughtheagencyofawretchedoldpeasantwhowatchestheendofthelinehere。AlongaccountofbreakagesintheAtlantictrialtrip。To—nightwegrapplefortheheavycable,eighttonstothemile。Ilongtohaveatugathim;hemaypuzzleme,andthoughmisfortunesorratherdifficultiesareaboreatthetime,lifewhenworkingwithcablesistamewithoutthem。
’2P。M。—Hurrah,heishooked,thebigfellow,almostatthefirstcast。HehangsunderourbowslookingsohugeandimposingthatI
couldfinditinmyhearttobeafraidofhim。
’June17。
’WewenttoalittlebaycalledChia,whereafresh—waterstreamfallsintothesea,andtookinwater。Thisisratheralongoperation,soIwentawalkupthevalleywithMr。Liddell。Thecoasthereconsistsofrockymountains800to1,000feethighcoveredwithshrubsofabrilliantgreen。Onlandingourfirstamusementwaswatchingthehundredsoflargefishwholazilyswaminshoalsabouttheriver;thebigcanesonthefurthersideholdnumberlesstortoises,wearetold,butseenone,forjustnowtheyprefertakingasiesta。Alittlefurtheron,andwhatisthiswithlargepinkflowersinsuchabundance?—theoleanderinfullflower。AtfirstIfeartopluckthem,thinkingtheymustbecultivatedandvaluable;butsoonthebanksshowalonglineofthicktallshrubs,onemassofgloriouspinkandgreen。Settheseinalittlevalley,framedbymountainswhoserocksgleamoutblueandpurplecolourssuchaspre—Raphaelitesonlydareattempt,shiningouthardandweird—likeamongsttheclumpsofcastor—oilplants,oistus,arborvitaeandmanyotherevergreens,whosenames,alas!Iknownot;thecistusisbrownnow,therestalldeeporbrilliantgreen。Largeherdsofcattlebrowseonthebakeddepositatthefootoftheselargecrags。Oneortwohalf—savageherdsmeninsheepskinkilts,&c。,askforcigars;partridgeswhirruponeithersideofus;pigeonscooandnightingalessingamongstthebloomingoleander。Wegetsixsheepandmanyfowls,too,fromthepriestofthesmallvillage;andthenrunbacktoSpartiventoandmakepreparationsforthemorning。
’June18。
’Thebigcableisstubbornandwillnotbehavelikehissmallerbrother。Thegearemployedtotakehimoffthedrumisnotstrongenough;hegetsslackonthedrumandplaysthemischief。Luckilyformyownconscience,thegearIhadwantedwasnegativedbyMr。
Newall。Mr。Liddelldoesnotexactlyblameme,buthesayswemighthavehadasilverpulleycheaperthanthecostofthisdelay。
HehastelegraphedformorementoCagliari,totrytopullthecableoffthedrumintothehold,byhand。IlookascomfortableasIcan,butfeelasifpeoplewereblamingme。Iamtryingmybesttogetsomethingriggedwhichmayhelpus;Iwantedalittledifficulty,andfeelmuchbetter。—Theshortlengthwehavepickedupwascoveredatplaceswithbeautifulspraysofcoral,twistedandtwinedwithshellsofthosesmall,fairyanimalswesawintheaquariumathome;poorlittlethings,theydiedatonce,withtheirlittlebellsanddelicatebrighttints。
’12O’CLOCK。—Hurrah,victory!forthepresentanyhow。Whilstinourfirstdejection,IthoughtIsawaplacewhereaflatrollerwouldremedythewholemisfortune;butaflatrolleratCapeSpartivento,hard,easilyunshipped,runningfreely!Therewasagroovedpulleyusedforthepaying—outmachinerywithaspindlewheel,whichmightsuitme。Ifilledhimupwithtarryspunyarn,nailedsheetcopperroundhim,bentsomepartsinthefire;andwearepaying—inwithoutmoretroublenow。Youwouldthinksomeonewouldpraiseme;no,nomorepraisethanblamebefore;perhapsnowtheythinkbetterofme,though。
’10P。M。—Wehavegoneonverycomfortablyfornearlysixmiles。
Anhourandahalfwasspentwashingdown;foralongwithmanycolouredpolypi,fromcorals,shellsandinsects,thebigcablebringsupmuchmudandrust,andmakesafishysmellbynomeanspleasant:thebottomseemstoteemwithlife。—Butnowwearestartledbyamostunpleasant,grindingnoise;whichappearedatfirsttocomefromthelargelowpulley,butwhentheenginesstopped,thenoisecontinued;andwenowimagineitissomethingslippingdownthecable,andthepulleybutactsassounding—boardtothebigfiddle。Whetheritisonlyananchororoneofthetwoothercables,weknownot。Wehopeitisnotthecablejustlaiddown。
’June19。
’10A。M。—Allouralarmgroundless,itwouldappear:theoddnoiseceasedafteratime,andtherewasnomarksufficientlystrongonthelargecabletowarrantthesuspicionthatwehadcutanotherlinethrough。Istoppeduponthelook—outtillthreeinthemorning,whichmade23hoursbetweensleepandsleep。Onegoesdozingabout,though,mostoftheday,foritisonlywhensomethinggoeswrongthatonehastolookalive。Hourafterhour,Istandontheforecastle—head,pickingofflittlespecimensofpolypiandcoral,orlieonthesaloondeckreadingbacknumbersoftheTIMES—tillsomethinghitches,andthenallishurly—burlyoncemore。Thereareawningsallalongtheship,andamostancient,fish—likesmellbeneath。
’1O’CLOCK。—Suddenlyagreatstraininonly95fathomsofwater—
beltssurgingandgeneraldismay;grapnelsbeingthrownoutinthehopeoffindingwhatholdsthecable。—Shoulditprovetheyoungcable!Weareapparentlycrossingitspath—nottheworkingone,butthelostchild;Mr。LiddellWOULDstartthebigonefirstthoughitwaslaidfirst:hewantedtoseethejobdone,andmeanttoleaveustothesmalloneunaidedbyhispresence。
’3。30。—Grapnelcaughtsomething,lostitagain;itleftitsmarksontheprongs。Startedliftinggearagain;andafterhaulinginsome50fathoms—grunt,grunt,grunt—weheartheothercableslippingdownourbigone,playingtheselfsametuneweheardlastnight—louder,however。
’10P。M。—Thepullonthedeckenginesbecameharderandharder。
Igotsteamupinaboilerondeck,andanotherlittleenginestartshaulingatthegrapnel。Iwonderifthereeverwassuchasceneofconfusion:Mr。LiddellandW—andthecaptainallgivingorderscontradictory,&c。,ontheforecastle;D—,theforemanofourmen,themates,&c。,followingtheexampleofoursuperiors;
theship’sengineandboilersbelow,a50—horseengineondeck,aboiler14feetlongondeckbesideit,alittlesteamwinchtearinground;adozenItalians(20havecometorelieveourhands,themenwetelegraphedfortoCagliari)haulingattherope;wiremen,sailors,inthecrevicesleftbyropesandmachinery;everythingthatcouldswearswearing—Ifoundmyselfswearinglikeatrooperatlast。Wegottheunknowndifficultywithintenfathomsofthesurface;butthentheforecastlegotfrightenedthat,ifitwasthesmallcablewhichwehadgotholdof,weshouldcertainlybreakitbycontinuingthetremendousandincreasingstrain。SoatlastMr。
Liddelldecidedtostop;cutthebigcable,buoyingitsend;gobacktoourpleasantwatering—placeatChia,takemorewaterandstartliftingthesmallcable。Theendofthelargeonehasevennowregaineditssandybed;andthreebuoys—onetograpnelfoulofthesupposedsmallcable,twotothebigcable—aredippingaboutonthesurface。Onemore—aflag—buoy—willsoonfollow,andthenstraightforshore。
’June20。
’Itisanill—wind,&c。Ihaveanunexpectedopportunityofforwardingthisengineeringletter;forthecraftwhichbroughtoutourItaliansailorsmustreturntoCagliarito—night,asthelittlecablewilltakeusnearlytoGalita,andtheItalianskippercouldhardlyfindhiswayfromthence。To—day—Sunday—notmuchrest。
Mr。LiddellisatSpartiventotelegraphing。WeareatChia,andshallshortlygotohelpourboat’screwingettingthesmallcableonboard。Wedroppedthemsometimesinceinorderthattheymightdigitoutofthesandasfaraspossible。
’June21。
’Yesterday—Sundayasitwas—allhandswerekeptatworkallday,coaling,watering,andmakingafutileattempttopullthecablefromtheshoreonboardthroughthesand。ThisattemptwasrathersillyaftertheexperiencewehadgainedatCapeSpartivento。Thismorningwegrappled,hookedthecableatonce,andhavemadeanexcellentstart。ThoughIhavecalledthisthesmallcable,itismuchlargerthantheBonaone。—Herecomesabreakdownandabadone。
’June22。
’Wegotoverit,however;butitisawarningtomethatmyfuturedifficultieswillarisefrompartswearingout。Yesterdaythecablewasoftenalovelysight,comingoutofthewateronelargeincrustationofdelicate,net—likecoralsandlong,whitecurlingshells。Noportionofthedirtyblackwireswasvisible;insteadwehadagarlandofsoftpinkwithlittlescarletspraysandwhiteenamelintermixed。Allwasfragile,however,andcouldhardlybesecuredinsafety;andinexorableironcrushedthetenderleavestoatoms。—Thismorningattheendofmywatch,about4o’clock,wecametothebuoys,provingouranticipationsrightconcerningthecrossingofthecables。Iwenttobedforfourhours,andongettingup,foundasadmess。Atangleofthesix—wirecablehungtothegrapnelwhichhadbeenleftbuoyed,andthesmallcablehadpartedandislostforthepresent。Ourhaulingoftheotherdaymusthavedonethemischief。
’June23。
’Wecontrivedtogetthetwoendsofthelargecableandtopicktheshortendup。Thelongend,leadingusseaward,wasnextputroundthedrumandamileofitpickedup;butthen,fearinganothertangle,theendwascutandbuoyed,andwereturnedtograppleforthethree—wirecable。Allthisisverytiresomeforme。ThebuoyinganddredgingaremanagedentirelybyW—,whohashadmuchexperienceinthissortofthing;soIhavenotenoughtodoandgetveryhomesick。AtnoonthewindfreshenedandthesearosesohighthatwehadtorunforlandandareoncemorethiseveninganchoredatChia。
’June24。
’Thewholedayspentindredgingwithoutsuccess。Thisoperationconsistsinallowingtheshiptodriftslowlyacrossthelinewhereyouexpectthecabletobe,whileattheendofalongrope,fasteithertotheboworstern,agrapneldragsalongtheground。Thisgrapnelisasmallanchor,madelikefourpot—hookstiedbacktoback。Whentheropegetstaut,theshipisstoppedandthegrapnelhauleduptothesurfaceinthehopesoffindingthecableonitsprongs。—IammuchdiscontentedwithmyselfforidlyloungingaboutandreadingWESTWARDHO!forthesecondtime,insteadoftakingtoelectricityorpickingupnauticalinformation。Iamuncommonlyidle。Theseaisnotquitesorough,buttheweatherissquallyandtheraincomesinfrequentgusts。
’June25。
’To—dayabout1o’clockwehookedthethree—wirecable,buoyedthelongseaend,andpickeduptheshort[orshore]end。Nowitisdarkandwemustwaitformorningbeforeliftingthebuoyweloweredto—dayandproceedingseawards。—Thedepthofwaterhereisabout600feet,theheightofarespectableEnglishhill;ourfishinglinewasaboutaquarterofamilelong。Itblowsprettyfresh,andthereisagreatdealofsea。
’26th。
’Thismorningitcameontoblowsoheavilythatitwasimpossibletotakeupourbuoy。TheELBArecommencedrollingintrueBalticstyleandtowardsnoonweranforland。
’27th,Sunday。
’Thismorningwasabeautifulcalm。Wereachedthebuoysatabout4。30andcommencedpickingupat6。30。Shortlyanewcauseofanxietyarose。Kinkscameupingreatquantities,aboutthirtyinthehour。Tohaveatrueconceptionofakink,youmustseeone:
itisaloopdrawntight,allthewiresgettwistedandthegutta—