Wepulledupalongside，gaveitsoccupantsgood-day，andaskedleavetomount。Thefishermen，hospitablesouls，offerednoobjection。
　　Thisseemedtomethemorecourteousontheirpart，afterIhadmadetheascent，forthereweretwooftheminthebasket，andavisitormateriallyaddedtothealreadyuneasyweight。Butthentheywereusedtoit。Therungsofwhatdidforladderweresofarapartastonecessitatemakingverylonglegsofitinplaces，whichmusthavebeencolossalstridesfortheowners。ThehigherIclambered，theflimsierthestructuregot。However，Iarrived，notwithoutunnecessarytrepidation，wormedmywayintothebasketandcroucheddowninsomeuneasinessofmind。Thewaythethingswayedandwriggledgavemetobelievethatthenextmomentweshouldallbeshotcatapultwiseintothesea。Tocallittopheavywilldoforaword，butnothingbutexperiencewilldoforthesensation。Thisoscillation，strangelyenough，wasnotapparentfromthesea;whichremindsmetohavenoticeddifferencesduethepointofviewbefore。
　　Iwasgreetedbyanextensiveoutlook。Theshore，perhapsahundredyardsaway，ranshortlyintoafisherhamlet，andthenintoalonglineofhalfsubmergedrocks，likesuccessivetouchesofaskippingstone。Beyondtheendofthisindefinitepoint，andalittletotherightofit，stoodanotherlookout。Thiswasouronlynearneighbor，thoughotherscouldbeseeninminiatureinthedistance，faintcobwebsagainstthecoast。Thebaystretchedawayonallsides，landlockedatlast，exceptwheretotheeastanopeninggaveintotheseaofJapan。
　　Toadispassionateobserverthebasketmayhavebeentwentyfeetabovethewater。Tooneinthebasket，itwasconsiderablyhigher——anditsheightwasemphasizedbyitsseeminginsecurity。
　　Thefishermenwereverymuchathomeinit，buttomethesensationwassuchastocausestrainedrelationsbetweenmywilltostayandmywishtobegone。
　　Butstrongfeelingsaresoeasilychangedintotheiropposites！Icanimagineoneoftheseeyriesadelightfulsettingtocertainmoods。
　　Adesertedoneshouldbetheplaceofplacesforreadingaromance。
　　Thesolitude，thestrangeness，andthecradle-likeswing，wouldallcomposetoshuttingouttheworld。TopaddletheresomeMaymorning，tieone’sboatoutofsightbeneath，andclimbupintothenesttositalonehalfpoisedintheskyinthemidstofthesea，shouldsavorofanewsensation。Afteralittleacclimatizationitwouldprobablybecomeapassion。Certainly，withapipe，itshouldinduceamosthappyframeofmindforaFrenchnovel。Theseemingriskoftheonesituationwouldservetopointthoseoftheother。
　　Thefishermenreceivedmythankswithamiability，watcheduswithstolidcuriosityaswepulledoff，andthenrelapsedintotheirformersemi-comatosecondition。Theireyrieslippedperspectivelyastern，sanklowerandlower，andsuddenlywaslostagainstthebackgroundofthecoast。
　　Thefavoringbreezewewerealwayshopingfornevercame。Thiswasabitterdisappointmenttotheboatmen，whothusfoundthemselvespreventedfrommorethanoccasionalwhiffsofsmoking。Oncewehadoutthesparandactuallyhoistedthesail，agodsendofanexcusetothemfordoingnothingforthenextfewminutes;butitshortlyhadtocomedownagainandonwerowed。
　　Oursurroundingsmadeaprettysight。Aforegroundofwater，smoothasonecouldwishhadhenowheretogo，withillusivecat’s-pawsofwindplayingcoylyallaround，markingthegreatshieldwithdarkscratches，andnevercomingnearenoughtobecaughtexceptwhenthesailwasdown。Folduponfoldoflowhillsinthedistance，withhamletsshowinghereandthereattheirbasesbythesea。Andthen，almostlikeapartofthepicture，sosubtlydidthesensationsblend，theslowcadencedcreakofthesweepsonthegunwale，arhythmicundercurrentofsound。
　　Atintervals，awayfarerundersail，boundtheotherway，creptslowlyby，carrying，asitseemedtoourenviouseyes，hisowncapfulofwindwithhim;andonceaboat，boundourwayandnotundersail，passedusnotfaroff。Ourboatmenwerebeautifullyblindtothisdefeattilltheirattentionhadbeenspecificallycalledtoitforanexplanation。Theythendeclaredthevictortobelighterthanwe，andthisinfaceofourhavingchosentheircraftforjustthatquality。Whatpercentofsuchstatements，Iwonder，dothemakersexpecttohavecredited？Andifanyappreciableamount，whichisthemoresold，theartlessdeceiverorhislesssimplevictim？
　　ButwealwaysheadedinthedirectionofNanao，andtheshoresfloatedbythroughthelongspringafternoon。Atlasttheybegantocontractuponustill，byvirtueofnarrowing，theyshotusthroughthestraitsinwaterclearascrystal，andthenwideningagain，droppedusadriftinWakurabay。Thoughnotsobelovedofbora，thebaywasmostpopularwithotherfish。Schoolsofporpoisesturnedcart-wheelsforouramusement，andinspotsthewaterwasfairlyalivewithbabyjelly-fish。OntheleftlayMonkeyisland，socalledfromacertainoldgentlemanwhohadhadapeculiarfondnessforthoseanimals。Hisfamilyofpoorrelationshaddisappearedathisdeath，andtheislandwasnowchieflyremarkableforacuriousclayformation，whichtimehadchiseledintocliffssomimickingafoldingscreenthattheywereknownbythename。Theywereperfectlylevelontopandperpendicularonthesides，andasdouble-facedasthemostmatter-of-factnicknamercoulddesire。Sunsetcame，foundusstillinthebayandleftusthere。Thentheduskcreptupfromtheblackwaterbeneath，likeanexhalation。Itgrewchilly。
　　JustaswewereturningthefaceofScreencliffasoundofsingingreachedus，ricochettingoverthewater。Ithadaplaintiveringsuchaspeasantsongsarewonttohave，andcame，asweatlengthmadeout，fromaboathomewardboundfromtheisland，steeringacourseatrightanglestoourown。Thevoiceswerethoseofwomen，andasourcoursessweptusnearereachother，wesawthatwomenalonecomposedthecrew。Theyhadbeenfaggot-cutting，andthebuncheslaypiledamidships，whileforeandafttheypliedtheiroars，andsang。Thegloaminghidallbutsoundandsex，andthrewitsveilofromanceoverthetrollers，whosenttheirheartsoutthusacrossthetwilightsea。Thesong，nodoubtsomecommonditty，gatheredapathosoverthewaterthroughthenight。Itsweptfromonesideofustotheother，softenedwithdistance，lingeredindetachedstrains，andthenwashushed，leavingusoncemorealonewiththenight。
　　Stillwepaddledon。Itwasnowbecomequitedark，quitecold，quitecalm，andwewerestillseveralgoodmilesofffromNanao。Atlengthonturningaheadlandthelightsofthetownanditsshippingcameoutonebyonefrombehindapoint，theadvanceguardsfirst，thenthemainbody，andwheelingintolinetookuptheirpostinalongparadeahead。Webegantowonderwhichwerethenearer。Thereisatouchofmysteryinmakingaharboratnight。Inthedaytimeyouseeitallwell-orderedbyperspective。Butasyoucreepslowlyinthroughthedark，thetwinklesoftheshippingonlydoubtfullypointtheirwhereabouts。Themostbrilliantmayturnoutthemostremote，andthefaintestatfirstthenearestafterall。Yourownmotionalonecansiftthemintoplace。Ifwecouldvoyagethroughtheseaofspace，itwouldbethuswemightcomeuponsomestar-clusterandhavethesamedelightfuldoubtwhichshouldbecomeoursunthefirst。
　　Inhalfanhourtheywereallaboutus;thenearerrevealingbytheirlightthedarkbodiesconnectedwiththem;thefartherstillshowingonlythemselves。Theteahousesalongthewater-frontmadeamilky-wayahead。Wethreadedourcoursebetweentheoutlyinglightswhilethemilky-wayresolveditselfintostar-pointedsilhouettes。
　　Thenskirtingalongit，wedrewupatlastatadarksomequay，andlandedYejirotohuntupaninn。Ilookedatmywatch;itwasteno’clock。Wehadnotonlypassedmyestimateoftimesomewhereinthemiddleofthebay;wehadexceededeventheboatmen’sexcessiveallowance。Somehowwehadputsixhourstothevoyage。IbegantorealizeIhadhiredthewrongmen。Norwasthevoyageyetover，ifremainingattachedtotheboatforfullyanhourmorebeentitledtocount。ForYejirodidnotreturn，andtheboatmenandIwaited。
　　Iwasgladenoughtomakepretenceatarrivalbygettingoutoftheboatontothequay。Thequaywasadismalplace。Iwalkedouttothefartherend，whereIfoundanindividualhauntingitwithanideatosuicideapparently。HiscoursestruckmeassoappropriatethatI
　　feltitwouldbehollowmockerytoarguethepointwithhim。Hemusthavebecomealarmedatthepossibility，however，forhemadeoff。
　　Heavenknowshehadsmallcausetofear;Iwascertainlyatthatmomentnounsympatheticsoul。
　　Havingonlycometogriefonthequay，Inexttriedalandwardstrollwithmuchthesameeffect。Thestreetorplacethatgaveuponthewharfwasasdesertedasthewharfitself。Halfthehousesaboutitweredarkastombs;theotherhalfshowedonlyglimmeringshojitauntingmebythesoundstheysufferedtoescape，orbyachancesilhouettethrownforamomentuponthepaperwallbysomeonewithin。Andnowandthen，asifstillfurthertoenhancethesolitude，apairpassedmebyinlowself-suitedtalk。
　　Stillnosignoftheboy。EveryfewminutesIwouldwalkbacktotheboatandlingerbesideittillIcouldnolongerstandthemutereproachofthebasketshuddledinalittlepileonthestones，poor，houselessimmigrantsthattheywere。AndfromtimetotimeImadeatouchingspectacleofmyself，bypullingoutmywatchandpeering，bywhatfeeblelightIcouldfind，anxiouslyatitsfacetomakeoutthehour。
　　AtlastYejiroturnedupinthecompanyofapoliceman。Thisofficial，however，provedtobeaccompanyinghiminacivilcapacity，and，changingintoaguide，ledthewaythroughseveraldarkalley-waystoaninnofforbiddingface，butbetterheart。Theredidweeventuallydine，orbreakfast，forbythattimeitwasbecomethenextday。
　　XIII。
　　OntheNotoHighway。
　　Onthemorrowmorningwetooktheroadinkuruma，theroadproper，asYejirocalledit;foritwasthemainbondbetweenNotoandtherestofJapan。Thiswasthenearestapproachithadtoapropername，acircumstancewhichshoweditnottobeofthefirstimportance。
　　ForinJapan，alltheoldarteriesoftravelhaddistinctivenames，theNakasendoorMid-Mountainroad，theTokaidoorEasternSearoad，andsoforth。Likecertainothercountryrelations，theirimportancewasduetotheircityconnections，nottotheirownlocalmagnitude。
　　For，whenwelloutofsightofthetown，theydonothesitatetoshrinktoanythingbutimposingproportions。Inmidcareeryoumightoftendoubtyourselftobeonsocelebratedathoroughfare。Buttheyarealwaysdelightfultotheeye，astheywanderthroughthecountry，nowbosomedintreesamongthemountains，nowstalkingbetweentheirownlongfilesofpine，orcryptomeria，acrossthewell-tilledplains。
　　Thisonehadbutfewsentinelstolineitintheopen，butlostlittleinpicturesquenessforitslackofpomp。Itwasprettyenoughtobeverygoodcompanyitself。
　　Itwasfairlypatronizedbywayfarerstodelightthesoul;cheerfulbodies，who，thoughjourneyingforbusiness，hadplentyoftimetobehappy，andradiatedcontent。Takeitasyouplease，theJapanesepeopleareamongtheveryhappiestonthefaceoftheglobe，whichmakesthemamongthemostcharmingtomeet。
　　Nothingnotablebeyondsuchpleasinggeneralitiesofpathandpeoplelayinourway，tillwecametoaplacewhereasteepandperfectlysmoothclaybankshotfromaspurofthehillsdirectlyintothethoroughfare。Threeurchinswereindustriouslyputtingthistoitsproperuse，coastingdownit，thatis，ontheseatsofwhatdidthemforbreeches。Anover-grown-upregardformyowntrousersalonedeterredmefrominstantlyfollowingsuit。Nosuchscruplespreventedmyabettingthem，however，totheextentofatriflingbribeforarepetition。Fortheyhadstoppedabashedassoonastheyfoundtheyhadapublic。Regardlessofmaternalconsequences，Ithusencouragedthesport。Butafterall，wasitsomuchabribeasanentrancefeetothecircus，orbetteryet，asortofsubsidyfromanex-memberofthefraternity？Surely，ifadversephysicalcircumstancesprecludeprofessioninperson，thenextbestthingistobecomeanoblepatronofart。
　　Fromthisaccidentalinstance，IjudgedthatboysinNotohadaboutasgoodatimeofitasboyselsewhere;thenextsightwechanceduponmademethinkthatpossiblywomendidnot。Wehadhardlypartedfromthecoastersondrygroundwhenwemetinthewaywithalotofwomenharnessedtocartsfilledwithvariousmerchandise，whichtheyweretoilsomelydraggingalongtowardsNanao。Itwasnotsopicturesqueasightasitssexmightsuggest。Forthoughthewomenwerenaturallynotaged，andsomehadnotyetlostallcomelinessoffeature，thiswomanlinessmadethethingthemoreappealing。NotowasevidentlynoEden，sincethelocalAdamhadthuscontrivedtoshiftuponthelocalEvesolargeafractionoftheprimalcurse。
　　ItwasasbadasthenorthofGermany。Thefemaleporterswehadbeenofferedonthethresholdoftheprovinceweremerelysymptomaticofthestateofthingswithin。IwonderwhatmyyoungJapanesefriend，thenewlight，towhomIlistenedonceonboardship，whilehelaunchedintoadiatribeuponthejinrikishaquestion，thedegradingpractice，ashetermedit，ofusingmenforhorses，——Iwonder，Isay，whathewouldhavesaidtothis！Hewasaquixoticyouth，atthetimereturningfromabroad，wherehehadpickedupmanynewideas。
　　Hisproposedapplicationsofthemdidhimgreatcredit，morethantheyarelikelytowinamongtheclassforwhomtheyweredesigned。
　　Acentandtwothirdsamile，tobehadfortherunningforit，isasyettooglitteringaprizetobeeasilyforegone。
　　Ofthetravelinquestion，weweretreatedtoforty-threemiles’
　　worththatday，byrelaysofrunners。Theoldmenfelloffgradually，tobereplacedbynewones，givingouradvancethecharacterofawave，wheretheparticlesmerelyoscillated，butthemotionwentsteadilyon。Theoscillations，however，werenotinsignificantinamount。Someofthemenmusthaveruntheirtwenty-fivemilesormore，brokenonlybyshorthalts;andthisatadog-trot，changedofcoursetoaslowerpullonbadbits，andwhengoinguphill。Afineshowofendurance，withallallowances。
　　Inthisfashionwebowledalongthroughasmilingagriculturallandscape，relievedbythehillsupontheleft，andwiththefaintestsuspicion，notamountingtoascent，oftheseaoutofsightontheright。Thedaygrewmorebeautifulwitheveryhourofitsage。
　　Thebluedepthsabove，tenantedbycastlesofcloud，grantedfancyeminentdomaintowanderwhereshewould。Eventheroadbelowgavefreeplaytoitscaprice，andmeanderedlikeanystreaminquisitivelythroughthevalley，visitingallthevillageswithinreach，afterawhimsicalfashionofitsown。Allaboutit，meadowsweretilling，andthewholelandscapebreathedanairofwell-establishedage，amidthelustinessofyouth。Theveryfarmhouseslookedtohavegrownwheretheystood，asindeedtheupperpartofthemhad。Forfromthethatchoftheirroofs，deepbeddedinmud，sprangallmannerofplantsthatmadeoftheeavesgardensintheair。Theridgepolesstoodtransformedintobedsofflowers;theirlongtuftsofgrasswavedinthewind，theblossomsnoddingtheirheadsamicablytothepassers-by。Whatacontentedfolkthisshouldbewhoseveryhomescansovegetate！Surelyaprettyconceititisforapeasantrythustosleepeverynightunderthesod，andyetawakeeachmorningtolifeagain！
　　AtthethresholdofKagaweturnedabruptlytotheleft，andattackedthepassleadingoverintoEtchiu。Aswewoundourwayupthenarrowvalley，dayleftthehollowstostandonrosytiptoeonthesidesofthehills，thebettertotakeflightintotheclouds。Thereitlingeredalittle，foldingtheforestsaboutwithitsroseatewarmth。
　　Eventhesternoldpinesflushedtothetipsoftheirshaggybranches，whilehereandthereabitofopenturnedaglowingcheekfulltothegood-nightkissofthesun。Andoverbeyonditallrosethetwilightbow，inpurplishinsubstantialitycreepingsteadilyhigherandhigher，abovethepine-cladheights。
　　Ireachedthetopbeforethejinrikisha，andasasortofrewardofmeritscrambledalittlefartherupthesteepslopetotheleft。
　　FromhereIcommandedthepass，especiallythatsideofitIhadnotcomeup。Thecorkscrewoftheroadcarriedtheeyemostpleasinglydownwithit。Icouldseeateahouseafewhundredfeetbelow，andbeyondit，atamuchlowerlevel，abridge。Beyondthiscameacomparativelyflatstretch，andthentheroaddisappearedintoagorge。Hereandthereitwaspointedwithpeopletoilingslowlyup。
　　Oftheencirclinghillstheshouldersalonewerevisible。WhileI
　　wasstillsurveyingthescene，thejinrikishamen，oneaftertheother，emergedfromthegulfoutofsightontherightandproceededtodescendintotheoneontheleft。Whenthelasthadwellpassed，andIhadtickledmyselfwiththesenseofabandonment，Iscrambledback，tookajumpintotheroadandslippeddownafterthem。Thelasthadwaitedformeattheteahouse，andstowingmeinstartedtorattledownthedescent。Theroad，unlikeus，seemedafraidofitsownspeed，andbroughtitselfupeveryfewhundredfeetwitharoundturn。Abouteachoftheseweswung，onlytodashdownthenextbend，andbegintheoscillationoveragain。Themenwereinfineexcitement，andkeptupashoutingoutofmeredelight。Intruthweallenjoyedthedissipatedsquanderinginafewminutesoftheenergyofpositionwehadsolaboriouslygainedbytoilinguptheotherside。Overthebridgewerattled，bowledalongthelevelstretch，andthenintothegorgeandoncemoredown，tillinanothertenminutesthelastfallhadshotusoutintotheplainwithmentalmomentumenoughtocarryushilariouslyintoImaisurugi，whereweputupforthenight。
　　Atbreakfastthenextmorningthesonofthehouse，anengaginglad，presentedmewithanunexpecteddish，threefossilstarfishonaplatter。Theywerefound，hesaid，innumbers，onthesidesofthehillhardby;afactwhichwouldgotoprovethatthispartofJapanhasbeenmakinginlatergeologictime。Indeed，ItakeitthebetterpartofEtchiuhasthusbeencastupbythesea，andnowliesbetweenitssemicircleofpeaksanditscrescentofbeach，likeayoungmooninthewesternsky，anewbayofricefieldintheoldbay’sarms。
　　Wehadcomebywayofitsoceanterminatoralongitsfringeofsand;
　　wewerenowtocrossitsface。
　　Aswepulledoutfromthetownandenteredthegreatplainofpaddyfieldsitwaslikeadventuringourselvesinsomevastexpanseofocean，cutuponlybyisletsoftrees。SoleveltheplainandsostilltheaironthiswarmMaymorning，theclumpsshimmeredinmirageinthedistancelikethingsatsea。Farmhousesandpeasantsatworkinthefieldsloomedupasships，pastwhichweslowlytackedandthendroppedthemoutofsightbehind。Andstillnoendofthesameinfinitelevel。Newclumpsrosedoubtfullyafar，tookonformandvanishedintheirturn。Ourmenrolledalongatagoodsix-knotgait，andmilewenttojoinmilewithlittleperceptibleeffectonthesurroundings。Onlythemistywashesofthemountains，glisteninginspotswithsnow，cameouttothesouthandthenswungslowlyroundlikethesunhimself。Occasionally，werolledintoavillageofwhichIdulyinquiredthedistancefromthelastknownpoint。Oneofthese，Takaoka，wasaverylargeplaceandstretchedamileormorealongtheroad，withramificationstotheside。
　　Atlastwenearedsomefoothillswhichwecrossedbyababypass，andfromthefarthersidelookedoffagainstthedistantTateyamarange。
　　Descendingagain，anotherstretchofplainbroughtustoToyama，theoldfeudalcapitaloftheprovince。Itisstillabustlingtown，anddoesabriskbusiness，Iwastold，inpatentmedicine，whichishawkedoverJapangenerallyandcureseverything。Buttheformersplendoroftheplacehasleftitforever。Theroomsintheinn，whereneighboringdaimyoswerewonttorestontheirjourneysthrough，arestillsuperbwithcarving，lacquerandpaintings，butnodaimyowilleveragainholdhistravelingcourtbeforetheirtokonoma。
　　Themanperchancemayagaintarrythere，butthemannerofitallhasgonetojointhepast。Nowhewhowillsmayensconcehimselfinthedaimyo’scorner，andfancyhimselfafeudallord;norwillthebreedingofthoseabouthimdisillusionhismiddaydream。
　　Thecastletheyhaveturnedintoapublicschool;andasIstrolledintoitscloseImetbandsofboysinforeignlycee-likeuniformtroopingout;chubby-facedyoungstersinstiffvisoredcaps。Girlsthereweretoo，inknotsoftwosandthrees，prettylittlethingsinsemi-Europeandress，theirhairdonealagrecque，stuckwithasingleflower，whostoppedintheirchattertostareatme。Tothinkthatthefeudaltimesaretothemasmuchataleasthemakingoftheplainitselfwhereitsruinsstandalreadymantledwithgreen！
　　XIV。
　　TheHarinokiToge。
　　Therenowbefellusasadpieceofexperience，theresultofmisplacedconfidenceintheguidebook。Ourswasthefaithasimplepublicpinsuponprint。Lejournal，c’estunjeunehomme，asBalzacsaid，andeventhebestofguidebooks，asthisonereallywas，mayturnout——acovertomanyshortcomings。
　　ItsdescriptionofthecrossingoftheHarinokitogeimpliedageneralityofperformancesthatcarriedconviction。Ifhewhoreadmightnotrun，hehad，atleast，everyassurancegivenhimthathewouldbeabletowalk。Thatthewritermightnotonlyhavebeenthefirsttocross，butthelast，aswell，wasnotevidentfromthetext。
　　Norwasitthereapparentthatthepathwhichwasspokenofasdifficultanddescribedas"hangingtotheprecipitoussideofthecliff，"mighthavebecometiredofhangingthusforthesakeoftravelerswhonevercame，andhavegivenitselfoveratlasttotheabyss。
　　Inthebook，thedeadpaststilllivedanever-youthfulpresent。
　　Intruth，however，thepathatthetimeoftheaccount，sometwelveyearsbefore，hadjustbeenmadebythesamuraiofKagatojointhemtothecapital。Sincethentheroadbytheseahadbeenbuilt，andtheHarinokipasshadceasedtobeinpracticewhatitpurportedtobeinprint。Ithadinadoublesenserevertedtotype。Therewassmallwonderatthis，foritwasaveryCerberusofapassatbest，withthreeheadstoit。ThefarthestfromEtchiuwastheHarinokitogeproper。
　　Theguidebookandafriendhadgoneoveroneseason，andtheguidebookhadinducedanotherfriendtoaccompanyhimagaintheyearafter。
　　WhethertherewereanyunpersonallyconductedascentsIamnotsure。
　　Butatanyrate，allthishappenedintheearlydays;foryearstheHarinokitogehadhadrest。
　　WeoughttohavetakenwarningfromthegeneralskepticismwemetwithatToyama，whenweproposedthepass。Butwiththefatalfaithofamaninhisguidebook，weignoredthenativeforebodings。
　　Besides，therewerejustpeopleenoughwhoknewnothingaboutit，andthereforethoughtitcouldbedone，toencourageusinourdelusion。
　　AccordinglyweleftToyamaafterlunchinthebestofspirits，injinrikisha，forKamidaki，orUpperFall，towhichthereprofessedtobeajinrikisharoad。Thedistancewasthreeri，sevenmilesandahalf。Beforewehadgoneoneofthemtheroadgaveout，andleftustotackonfootinpathsthroughtherice-fields，whichinonelonginclinationkeptmountingbeforeus。Justbeforereachingthevillage，ahugetreeinfullfaintpurplebloomshowedupalittletotheleft。
　　Underasuddenattackofbotanicalzeal，Istruckacrosslotstoinvestigate，andaftermuchtackingamongthepaddydykesfound，tomysurprise，onreachingit，thattheflowerscamefromahugewistariathathadcoileditselfupthetree。Thevinemusthavebeenatleastsixfeetroundatthebase，andhadabodyhorriblylikeanenormousboathatswungfrombrancheshighinair。Theanimallookofthevegetableparasitewassolifelikethatonebothlongedandloathedtotouchitatthesametime。
　　AtKamidaki，aftertheusualdelay，wefoundporters，whoechoedthedoubtsofthepeopleofToyama，andwentwithusprotesting。HalfanhourafterthiswecametotheJindogawa，ariverofvariableimportance。Itlookedtohavebeenoncethebedofamightyglacierthatshouldhavesweptgrandlyroundfromunseenfastnessesamongthehills。Atthetimeofourvisit，itwas，forthemostpart，awasteofstonesthroughwhichtwolargerandseverallesserstreamswereinmuchworrytofindtheirwaytothesea。Thetwolargerwerejustbigenoughtobeunfordable;soaCharonstationedateachferriedthecountryfolkacross。Atthesmaller，afterpickingoutthelikeliestspots，wetookoffourshoesandsocksandwaded，andthen，upontheotherside，satsometimeonstones，ill-modeledtothatend，todrawourthingsonagain。
　　Ourwaynowleduptheleftbank——therightbank，accordingtoaquaticconvention，whichpleasinglysupposesyoutobedescendingthestream。ItlayalongaplateauwhichIdoubtnottohavebeentheriver’sprehistoricbed，soevidentlyhadthepresentonebeenchiseledoutofittoafurtherdepthofoverfiftyfeet。Atfirstthepathstruckinland，astutelymakingachordtotheriver’sbow，anunsuspectedsignofintelligenceinapath。Itwasadventurous，too，forsoonaftercomingoutabovethebrink，itbeganuponacrobaticfeatsinwhichitshoweditselfnationallyproficient。
　　Anarrowaqueducthadbeencutoutofthesideofthecliff，andalongitsouterembankment，whichwastwofeetwide，thepathproceededtobalance。Theaqueducthadgivenwayinspots，whichcausedthepathtotaketosomericketyboardsputthereforitsbenefit。Afterthisexhibitionofdaring，itdescendedtothestream，toriseagainlater。
　　Meanwhilenightcameonandtheriverbottombegantofillwithwhatlookedtobemist，butwasinrealitysmoke。Thisgaveaweirdeffecttothenowmountainoussettings。Intothemidstofitwedescendedtoasuspensionbridgeoftwistedstrandsofthewistariavine，ballastedattheendswithboulderspiledfromtheriver’sbed。
　　Thethingswayedcheerfullyaswepassedover。
　　Onthetopoftheoppositebankstoodperchedagroupofhouses，notenoughtomakeavillage，andfartoohumbletosupportaninn。
　　Butintheirmidstroseawell-to-dotemple，where，accordingtotheguidebook，goodlodgingwastobehad。Itmayindeedbeso。Forourpartwewerenotsomuchasgrantedentry。Anacolyte，whoparleyedwithusthroughthedarkness，reportedthepriestawayonbusiness，andrefusedtoletusinonanyterms。Severalbystandersgatheredduringtheinterview，andhaditnotbeenforoneofthemwemighthavebeenthereyet。Fromthismanweelicitedtheinformationthatanotherhamletlayhalfamilefurtherup，whosehead-man，hethought，mightbewillingtohouseus。Wefollowedstraightonuntilsomebuildingsshowedinstillblackersilhouetteagainsttheblacksky，andthere，aftersomegropinginthedarkandaseconduncannyconversationthroughaloophole，——fortheplacewasalreadyboardedupforthenight，——wewerefinallytakenin。
　　Thehousewasagenerousinstanceofamountainfarmhouse。
　　Thefloorswereinnocentofmats，andtheroomsotherwisepitiablybarnlike。Yetanairoflargenessdistinguishedthewhole。Itwasclearlythehomeofamanofstandinginhiscommunity，onewholivedamplytheonlylifeheknew。Youfeltyoualreadyknewthemanfromhisouterenvelope。AndthisinsomesortpreparedmeforalittlesceneIwasshortlytowitness。ForwhilewaitingforYejirotogetdinnerreadyIbecameawarethatsomethingwasgoingoninwhatstoodforhall;andonpushingtheshojigentlyapartIbeheldthewholehouseholdateveningprayersbeforeanaltarpiece，lightedbycandlesandglitteringwithgildedBuddhasandbronzelotusflowers。
　　Thefatherintonedtheservicefromakindofbreviary，andthefamilyjoinedfromtimetotimeintheresponses。Therewasasincerityandasweetsimplicityabouttheactthatwenttomyheartandheldmethere。Atthecloseofitthefamilyremainedbowedwhiletheintonerreverentlyputoutthelightsandfoldedthedoorsupontheimageswithin。Lockedinthatlittlecaselayalltheluxurywhichthefamilycouldafford，andtowhichtherestofthehousewasstranger。Thereissomethingtouchinginanyheartfeltbelief，andsomethingpathetictoo。
　　Thispeacefulparenthesiswashardlypastbeforethetrialsoftravelintrudedthemselvesagain。Theportersprovedrefractory。Theyhadagreedtocomeonlyasfarastheycould，andnowtheyrefusedtoproceedfurther。Herewasaprettypass。Toturnbacknowwasworsethannottohavesetoutatall。Besides，wehadnotyetevencomeinsightoftheenemy。Yejiroreasonedwiththemforsomehoursinthekitchen，occasionallypausingforlackoffurtherargumenttoreporthiswantofprogress。Itseemedthemenvaluedtheirlivesaboveamoneyconsideration，strangelyenough。Theymadenobonesaboutit;thethingwastoodangerous。Thestreamstheydeclaredimpassable，andthecharcoalburnerstheonlymenwhoknewthepath。
　　Yejiroatoncehadthesewitnessessubpoenaed，andbygoodluckoneofthemcame，who，onbeingquestioned，repeatedalltheportershadsaid。ButYejiro’sbloodwasup，andheboldlyplayedhislasttrump。Hethreatenedthemwiththearmofthelaw，amuchmoreeffectiveweaponinJapanthanelsewhere。Heproposed，infine，towalkthreeridownthevalleytothenearestpolicestationandfetchapolicemanwhoshouldcompelthemtomoveon。ItisperhapsopentodoubtwhetherevenaJapanesepoliceman’somnipotencewouldhaveextendedsofar。Butthethreat，thoughnotconclusive，hadsomeeffect。ThisstrategicstrokeIonlylearntoflater，andIlaughedheartilywhenIdid。Thatnight，however，itwasnolaughingmatter，andIbegantohavedoubtsmyself。Butitwasnotimeformisgivings，soIwentintohelp。Thecircleroundthekitchenfirewasnotacheerfulsight。Tohavethecourageofone’sconvictionsisrareenoughinthisweakworld，buttohavethecourageofone’sdoubtsissomethingIuncoverto。Tofurnishpluckforawholecompanyincludingone’sself;toheartenotherswithoutlettingthemseehowsoreinneedofhearteningistheheartener，touchesmyutmostadmiration。Ifonlyanotherwouldsaytohimthathemightbelievetheverythingshedoesnotbelieve，ashesaysthemtothatother;theythenmightatleastseemtrue。Ignorancesavedme。HadIknownwhattheydid，Ishouldhaveagreedwiththemonthespot。
　　Asitwas，IdidwhatIcould，andwentbacktomyownroom，thepreyofsomewhatlonelythoughts。
　　XV。
　　TowardthePass。
　　Iwaswakedbygoodnews。Theportershad，toacertainextent，comeround。Ifwewouldhalvetheirburdensbydoublingtheirnumber，theywouldmakeanattemptonthepass，or，rather，theywouldgoonasfarastheycould。Thiswasagreatadvance。Tobealreadymovingimpliesamomentumofthemindwhichcarriesamanfartherthanhemeans。Iacquiescedatonce。Therecruitsconsistedofthemasterofthehouse——hisfather，theofficiatoratfamilyprayers，hadretiredfromthecaresofthisworld——andapeasantoftheneighborhood。Thecharcoalburnersweretoobusywiththeirownaffairs。Fromthesill，asIputonmyboots，Iwatchedwithcomplacencethecordingoftheloads，andthen，withquitealightsomegait，followedthelengthenedfileoutintothestreet。
　　Oneaftertheotherwetrampedforthpastthefewhousesoftheplace，whosepeoplewatchedusgo，withthebuoyanttreadofthoseabouttodogreatthings，andsooutintotheopen。
　　Thepathappearedverywell。Ittrottedsoberlyalongacrossamountainmooruntilitcameoutabovetheriver。Itthenwoundupstream，clingingtotheslopeseveralhundredfeetabovethevalleybottom。Itwasprecipitousinplaces，butwithinreason，andIwasjustcomingtoconsidertheaccountsexaggeratedwhenitdescendedtotheriverbedatapointwhereabuttofnevestuckafootintotheshingle。Thestream，whichhadlookedathreadfromabove，turnedoutatorrentwhenwestooduponitsbrink。Thevalleywasnothingbutriverbed，amassofbouldersofallsizes，throughthemidstofwhichthestreamplungedwithdeafeningroar，andsodeepthatfordingwasoutofthequestion。Aman’slifewouldnothavebeenwortharushinit。
　　Wefolloweduptheboulderbankinsearchofamorepropitiousspot。
　　Thenwefolloweddownagain。Eachplacepromisedatadistance，andbaulkedhopeathand。Atlast，indespair，wecametoahaltoppositethewidestandshallowestpart，andafternoendofurging，oneoftheportersstripped，and，armedwithhispole，venturedin。
　　Thechannellaywellovertothefartherside;thricehegottoitsneareredgeandthriceheturnedback，astherushofwaterbecametoogreat。Hislifewasworthtoomuchtohim，hesaid，notunnaturally，forhimtothrowitaway。Yetcrossthestreamwemust，orreturnignominiously;forthepathwehadsofarfollowedhadfallenoverthecliffinfront。
　　Weimprovedthemomentsofreflectiontohavelunch。Whilewewerestilldiscussingviaeandviands，andhadnearlycometotheendofboth，wesuddenlyspiedastringofmendefilingslowlydownthroughthewideboulderdesertontheotherside。Weallroseandhailedthem。Theyweresofarawaythatatfirsttheyfailedtohearus，andevenwhentheyheardtheystaredvacantlyaboutthemlikemenwhoheartheyknownotwhat。Whenatlasttheycaughtsightofus，webeckonedexcitedly。Theyconsulted，apparently，andthenoneofthemcamedowntotheedgeofthestream。Thetorrentmadesomuchnoisethatourmencouldmakethemselvesintelligibleonlyinpart，andthatbybawlingatthetopoftheirlungs。Throughtheenvoy，theyinvitedthebandtostringthemselvesacrossthestreamandsopassourthingsover。Themanshookhishead。Werosetofabuloussumsandstillherepeatedhispantomime。ItthenoccurredtoYejirothatacertainplacelowerdownmightpossiblybebridged，andbeckoningtothemantofollow，heledthewaytothespotinmind。Aboulder，two-thirdswayinstream，seemedtoofferapier。Hetriedtoshouthisidea，buttheroarofthetorrent，narrowthoughitwas，drownedhisvoice;so，writingonapieceofpaper："Whatwillyoutaketobuildusabridge？"hewrappedthepaperroundastoneandflungitover。Afterreadingthismissive，thespokesmanheldaconsultationwithhisfriendsandabargainwasstruck。Forthehugesumoftwoyen（adollarandahalf），theyagreedtobuildusabridge，andatoncesetoffupthemountainsideforatree。
　　Themen，itseemed，wereabandofwood-cutterswhohadwintered，aswastheircustom，inahutatKurobe，whichwasthissideoftheHarinokitoge，andwerejustcomeoutfromtheirhibernation。
　　TheywerenowontheirwaytoAshikura，wheretheybelonged，toreporttotheirheadman，obtainsuppliesandstarttoreturnontheafter-morrow。Itwasatwo-days’journeyeitheroutorin。
　　Bridges，therefore，cameoftheirtrade。Thedistanceacrosstheboulderbedwasconsiderable，andastheytoiledslowlyupthefaceoftheoppositemountain，theylookedlikesomanyants。Pickingoutatrunk，theybegantodragitdown。Bydegreestheygotittotheriverbed，andthenceeventuallytotheedgeofthestream。Tolayitwasquiteafeatofengineering。Withsomepiecesofdrift-woodwhichtheyfoundlyingabout，theythrewaspantothebigboulder，andfromthebouldermanagedtogetthetrunkacross。Then，withropewhichtheycarriedattheirgirdles，theylashedthewholetogetheruntiltheyhadpatchedupaveryworkmanlikeaffair。
　　Wetrodacrossintriumph。Withpraiseworthycarelestitshouldbesweptawaytheythentookthethingalldownagain。
　　Suchvaluablepeoplewerenotidlytobepartedwith。Herewasararechancetogetguides。When，however，weapproachedthemonthepoint，theyallprovedsoconscientiousaboutgoinghomefirst，thattheattemptfailed。Buttheygaveussomeimportantinformationonthestateofthestreamsaheadandthemeansofcrossingthem，andweseparatedwithmuchmutualgood-will。
　　FormypartIfeltasifwehadalreadyarrivedsomewhere。Ilittleknewwhatlaybeyond。WhileIwasploddingalonginthisblissfullyignorantstateofmind，communingwithapipe，thepath，whichhadfriskedinandoutforsometimeamongtheboulders，suddenlytookitintoitsheadtoscaleacliffontheleft。Itdidthis，asitseemedtome，withoutprovocation，afteracertainrecklessfashionofitsown。Thehigheritclimbed，themorefoolhardyitgot，tillthedown-lookgrewunpleasant。Thenittooktocoquettingwiththegulfonitsrightuntil，asIknewwouldhappen，itlostitsheadcompletelyandfellovertheedge。Thegaphadbeenspannedbyafewlooseboards。Overthemakeshiftweall，oneaftertheother，gingerlycrawled，eachwaitinghisturn，withtheabyssgapingonhisside，fortheoneinfronttomoveon。
　　Wehadnotyetrecoveredfromtheshockwhenwecametoanotherplacenotunlikethefirst。Hereagainthepathhadgivenway，andacoupleoflogshadbeenlashedacrosstheinnerelbowofthecliff。
　　Wecrossedthisbybalancingourselvesforthefirsttwostepsbythestumpofabushthatjuttedoutfromacreviceintherock;forthenexttwowetouchedthecliffwiththetipsofourfingers;forthelasttwowebalancedourselvesalone。
　　Forthetimebeingthegodsofhighplaceshadtemptedusenough，forthepathnowdescendedagaintothedrybedofthestream，andthereforacertaindistancetrippedalonginallsoberness，givingmethechancetolookaboutme。Theprecipitoussidesofthemountainsthatshutinthenarrowvalleywereheavilymaskedinforest;andforsometimepast，theravinesthatscoredtheirsideshadbeenpatchedwithsnow。Witheachnewmileofadvancethepatchesgrewlargerandmergedintooneanother，stretchingtowardthestream。Wenowbegantomeetsnowonthepath。Inthemeantime，fromonecauseandanother，insensiblyIfellbehind。Theotherspassedonoutofsight。
　　Thepath，havinglulledmeintoaconfidingunconcern，startedinseeminginnocenceofpurposetoclimbagain。Itsingenuousnessbutprefacedamalicioussurprise。Forofasudden，unmaskingacorner，itpresenteditselfinprofileahead，anarrowledgenotchedinnakedsimplicityagainsttheprecipice。Thingslookbetterslightlyveiled;besides，itismoredecent，eveninapath。Inthiscasetheshamelessnesswasearnestoftheundoing。ForonreachingthepointinviewandturningitIstoodconfrontedbyasightsorryindeed。
　　Thepathbeyondhadvanished。Farbelow，outofsightovertheedge，laythetorrent;unscalablethecliffroseabove;andalineoffossilfootprints，leadingacrossthefaceoftheprecipiceinthedebris，alonemarkedwherethepathhadbeen。Spectrestheyseemedoftheirformerselves。CrusoecouldnothavebeenmorehorrifiedthanwasI。
　　Nottohavecomesuggesteditselfasthepropersolution，unfortunatelyanimpracticableone，andbeingthere，toturnbackwasinadmissible。
　　SoItookmyselfinhandandstarted。ForthefirstfewstepsIwasfartoomuchgivenuptoconsideringpossibilities。Ithoughthowasinglemisstepwouldend。Icouldseemyfootingslip，feeltheconsciousnessthatIwasgone，thedullthudsfrompointtopointaswhatremainedofmeboundedbeyondthevisibleedgedown，down……
　　Andafterthatwhat！Howlongbeforetheportersmissedmeandcamebackinsearch？Wouldtherebeanytracetotellwhathadbefallen？
　　AndthenYejiroreturningalonetoTokyotoreport——lostontheDragonpeak！EachtimeIalmostfeltmyfootgivewayasIputitdown，rightbeforeleft，leftbeforeright。
　　ThenIrealizedthatthisinopportuneflirtingwithfatemuststop;
　　thatImustgiveoverdallyingwithsensations，oritwouldsoonbealloverwithme。IwasfallingapreytothenativeLorelei——forallthesespotsinJapanhavetheirfamiliardevils——subjectively，asbefitsamodernman。InumbedsensibilityasbestIcouldandcaredonlytomakeeachstepsecure。BetweentheNirvanawithinandtheNirvanabelow，itwasasorryhell。
　　Inmid-careerthepathmadeanattempttorecover，butrelapsedtofurtherfootprintsinthesand。Atlastitdescendedtoabrook。
　　Iknelttodrink，andongettingupagainsawmypocket-handkerchiefwhiskingmerrilyawaydownstream。Igavechase，butinvain;forthoughitcametothesurfaceonceortwicetotantalizemeitwasgonebeforeIcouldseizeit。SoIgaveoverthepursuit，reflectingthat，afterall，itmighthavefaredworsewithme。IftheLoreleihadhopedtoturnmyhead，Iwaswellquitofmyhandkerchiefforheronlytrophy。
　　Shortlyafterthis，themainstreamdividedintotwo，andtheleftbranch，whichwefollowed，leduptoagorge，——beyondadoubttheabominationofdesolationspokenofbytheprophet。Idonotrememberalandscapemoreghastly。Notatree，notabladeofgrass，notevendecentearthinthewholeprospect。Apparently，theplacehadbeenflayedaliveandsulphurhadthenbeenpouredintothesore。
　　Thirtyyearsbeforeacataclysmhadoccurredhere。Thesideofoneofthemountainshadslidbodilyintothevalley。Thedebris，bydammingupthestream，causedafreshet，whichswepteverythingbeforeitandkilledquantitiesoffolklowerdownthevalley。
　　Theplaceitselfhasneverrecoveredtothisday。
　　Althoughthestreamherewasababytotheonebelow，itwaslargeenoughtobeimpassabletothenaturalman。Fromourwoodcutterfriends，however，wehadlearnedoftheleavingsofabridge，uponwhichinduetimewecame，andputtingthepartsofitinplace，wepassedsuccessfullyover。
　　Wenowbegantoenterthesnowingoodearnest，incipientglaciersnow，treacherouslyhoneycombed。Itmade，however，moreagreeablewalkingthantheboulders。Thepathhadagainbecomeprecipitous，andkeptonmounting，tillofasuddenitlandedusuponanamphitheatralarena，dominatedbyhigh，jaggedpeaks。Oneunbrokenstretchofsnowcoveredtheplateau，andatthecentreofthewintrywinding-sheetaclusterofweather-beatenhutsappealedpitiablytotheeye。TheywerethebuildingsoftheRiuzanjitahot-springs;insummerasortofsecularmonasteryforpilgrimstotheDragonpeak。
　　Theyweretenantednow，wehadbeentold，byacoupleofwatchmen。
　　Westruckoutwithfreerstrides，whilethemoon，whichhadbythistimerisenhighenoughtoovertopthewallofpeaks，watcheduswithanashenface，asinsinglefilewemovedacrossthewasteoflevelwhite。
　　XVI。
　　Riuzanjita。
　　Wemadeforthemainhut，alow，mouse-coloredshantyfastasleepanddeepdriftedinsnow。Theadvanceportersummonedtheplace，andthesummonsdrewtowhatdidfordooramanasmouselikeashismansion。
　　Hehadabouthimasubdued，monkishdemeanorthatonlypartiallyhidanalertnesswithin，——asecularmonkbefittingthespot。Heshowedhimselfakindlybody，andafterhehadhelpedtheportersoffwiththeirpacks，ledthewayintotheroominwhichheandhismatehibernated。Itwasaroomverymuchintherough;boardsforwalls，forceiling，forfloor，itsonlyfurnishingafire。Itwasthebestoffurnishinginoureyes，andwehastedtosquatrounditinacircle，inattitudesofextremedevotion，foritwasbittercold。
　　Themonkishwatchmanthrewahandfulmoretwigsontheembers，outofacheerfulhospitalitytohisguests。
　　Thefireplacewasmerelyaholeinthefloor，accordingtoJapanesecustom，andthesmokefounditswayoutasbestitcould。Buttherewasverylittleofit;usually，indeed，thereisnone，forcharcoalisthecommoncombustible。Acauldronhung，byironbarsjointedtogether，fromthegloomabove。Itwastwilightintheroom。
　　Alreadythedaywithoutwasfadingfast，andevenathighnoon，nonetoomuchofitcouldfindawayintothebuilding，nowhalfburiedunderthesnow。Asecondwatchmansatmuffledinshadowonthefarthersideofthefire。Hemadehispresenceknown，fromtimetotime，byoccasionalsympatheticgutturals，orbythesuddenglowofabitofcharcoal，whichhetookoutoftheemberswithapairofchopstickfire-ironstorelighthispipe。Thetalknaturallyturneduponourexpedition，withYejiroforspokesman，andfromthateasilyslidintotheall-importantquestionofguides。Ourinquiriesonthisheadelicitednothingbutdoubt。Wetriedatfirsttogetthewatchmentogo。Butthistheypositivelyrefusedtodo。Theycouldnotleavetheircharge，inthefirstplace，theysaid;andforthesecond，theydidnotknowthepath。Weaskediftherewasnoonewhodid。Therewasahunter，theysaid，nearbywhowasbywayofknowingtheroad。Amessengerwassentatoncetofetchhim。
　　Inthemeantime，iftheyshowedthemselvesskepticalaboutourfuture，theyprovedmostsympatheticoverourpast。OurdescriptionoftheFridayfootprintsespeciallybroughtoutmuchfellow-feeling。
　　Theyknewthespotwell，theysaid，anditwasverybad。InfactitwascalledtheOnigaJo，orplaceofmanydevils，foritsfearfulness。
　　Itwouldbebetter，theyadded，afterthemountainopeningonthetenthofJune。
　　"Mountainopening！"saidItoYejiro;"whatisthat？Isitanythinglikethe’riveropening’？"FortheJapanesewordsseemedtoimplynotaphysical，butaformalunlockingofthehills，liketheannualreligiousriteupontheSumidagawainTokyo。Such，itappeared，itwas。ForthetenthofJune，hesaid，wasthedateofthemountain-climbingfestival。Yearlyonthatdayallthesacredpeaksarethrownopentoapiouspublicforascent。Aprocessionofpilgrims，headedbyaflautistandabellman，wendtheirwaytothesummit，andthereencamp。Forthreedaystheceremonylasts，afterwhichthemountainsareobjectsofpilgrimagetillthetwenty-eighthdayofAugust。Fortherestoftheyearthesummitsareheldtobeshut，thegodsbeingtheninconclave，todisturbwhomweretheheightofimpiety。Apleasingcoincidenceofdutyandpleasure，thatthescalingofthepeaksshouldbeenjoinedtopilgrimsatthetimesofeasiestascent！Preparatorytotheprocessionallthepathsofapproacharerepaired。Itwasthisrepairingtowhichthewatchmenreferredandwhichconcernedoursecularselves。
　　Ourdifficultiesbegantobeexplained。Wewereveryclosetocommittingsacrilege。Wehadhad，itistrue，nodesignsonthepeaks，butwerewewhollyguiltlessinattemptingsomuchasthepassesinthisthecloseseason？Apparentlynot。Atallevents，wewereamonthaheadoftimeinourvisit，whichinitselfwasofquestionableetiquette。
　　Atthispointthemessengersenttofindthehunterreturnedwithouthisman。Evidentlythehunterwasapersonwhomeanttostandwellwithhisgods，orelsehewashimselfamyth。
　　Distraughtinmindandrestlessinbody，Igotupandwentoutintothegreatsnowwaste。Thesunsetafterglowwasjustfadingintothemoonshine。Theeffectuponthepurewhitesheetbeforemewasindescribablybeautiful。Thewarmtintofthelastofday，asitwaned，dissolvedimperceptiblyintothecoldlustreofthenightasifsomealchemistweresubtlychangingthesubstancewhilehekepttheform。Foranewspiritwasslowlypossessingitselfoftheveryshapesthathadheldtheold，andthesnowlookedverysilent，verycold，veryghostly，glisteninginitssilversheen。
　　Theskywasbitterlyclear，inhumanlycold。Tocallitfrostyweretohumanizeit。Itsexpansestretchedfarmorefrozenthanthefrozenearth。Indeed，thenightskyisalwaysawful。Forthemostpart，weforgetitforthekindlierprospectofthecradlingtrees，andthewhispersofthewind，andtheperfumesofthefields，thesightsandsoundsthateveninslumberstirwithlife;andthenearerthrustawaytherealhorrorofthefar。Buttheawespeakswithinsistencewhentheforegrounditselfisdead。
　　Shivering，Ireturnedtothefireandhumancompanionship。
　　Theconversationagainrolleduponprecipices，whichitappearedweremorenumerousbeforethanbehind，andcasualtiesamongthewoodcuttersnotunknowninconsequence。Therewasoneplace，theysaid，where，ifyouslipped，youwentdownari（twomilesandahalf）。
　　Itwashereawoodcutterhadbeenlostthreedaysbefore。Therimusthavebeenaflightoffancy，sinceitfarexceededtheheightofthepassabovethesea。Butahandsomediscountfromthestatementleftanunpleasantbalancetocontemplate。
　　Thisdeathhadfrightenedoneofthewatchmenbadly，asitmaywellhavedone。Thefactswerethese。SeparatedfromthehotspringsofRiuzanjitabytwopasseslayavalley，uninhabitedexceptfortwobandsofwoodcutters，whohadbuiltthemselvesacoupleofhuts，oneoneithersidethestream，inwhichtheylivedtheyearround。
　　ItwasthesehutsthatwentbythenameofKurobe。Duringthewintertheywereentirelycutofffromtheoutsideworld。Assoonaspracticableinthespring，apartofeachbandwasaccustomedtocomeoutoverthepasses，descendtoAshikura，andreturnwithprovisionsandmoney。
　　Nowthisyear，beforethemeninthevalleyhadthoughtittimetoattemptthepasses，asolitarywoodcuttercameuptothehotspringsfrombelow，and，inspiteofwarningfromthewatchmen，startedaloneforKurobe。Ontheafternoonofthethirddayafterhisdeparture，theregularbandturnedupatRiuzanjita，havingleftKurobe，itseemed，thatmorning。Theypassedthenightatthehotspringshut，andonbeingquestionedbythewatchmenaboutthemanofthreedaysbefore，theysaidtheyhadheardofnosuchperson。Itturnedout，tothehorrorofbothparties，thathehadneverreachedKurobe。
　　Itwasonlythenightbeforewearrivedthatthewoodcuttershadbeenthere，andtheaffairwasstillterriblyfreshinthewatchman’sthoughts;infact，itwastheidenticalbandthathadbuiltusourbridge。Thesemenwerethoroughlyequippedforsnow-climbingandhadcomeoversafely;andyet，asitwas，theheadmanoftheotherbandatKurobehadbeenafraidtocrosswiththem，andhad，instead，goneallthewayroundbytheriverandthesea，averylongandroughjourney。Fatalaccidents，thewatchmensaid，wereofyearlyoccurrenceonthepasses。
　　AndallthiswasonlythewaytoKurobe。BeyonditlaytheHarinokitoge。Thatpassnoonehadyetcrossedthisyear。Andatintervalsduringthetalkthewatchmanrepeatedexcitedly，asasortofrefrain，"Itisimpossibletogoon，——itisimpossibletogoon。"
　　Thistalk，apartofwhichIunderstood，wasnotveryheartening，followingasitdidthepersonalexperienceoftheOnigaJo。
　　Theprospectbegantolooktoouncertaininitsconclusionandtoocertaininitspremisestobeinviting。Ifprofessionals，properlyaccoutred，foundcrossingsodangerousamatter，theplacewashardlyoneforunprovidedamateurs。Thesemountaineerswerenottiedtogether，butworeovertheirwaraji，orstrawsandals，asetofironscalledkanakajiki。Wewereshownsomeofthemwhichhadbeenleftbythewoodcuttersagainsttheirreturn。Theywereskeletonsandals，ironbandsshodwiththreespikes。TheylookedlikeinstrumentsoftorturefromtheMiddleAges，andindeedweresaidtobeindispensableagainstbacksliding。
　　Ontheotherhand，oneBlondinfeatovertheDevilPlacewasenoughforme。Totakeitontheroadratherthanturnbackwasonething，tostarttotakeitincoldbloodanother。Ihadhadquiteenoughofbalancinganddoubt。SoIaskediftherewasnootherwayout。
　　Wemight，theysaid，gotoArimine。
　　"Andhowwastheroad？"
　　"Oh，theroadwasgood，"theyansweredcheerily。
　　"Couldwegetaguide？"
　　Apparentlywecouldnot，foranawkwardpauseensueduntil，aftersomesuspense，thebiggerofthetwowatchmen，hethatsatintheshadowofthecorner，volunteeredtopilotushimself;and，headded，weshouldnothavetostartbetimes，asthesnowwouldnotbefittotravelontillthesunhadmeltedthecrust。
　　UponthisdoublycomfortingconclusionIbadethemgood-night，andbetookmetothecell-likeroomallottedmetosleep。
　　XVII。
　　OvertheSnow。
　　WhenYejiropushedtheshojiandtheamado（nightshutters）apartinthemorning，hedisclosedabankofsnowfourfeetdeep;notasnowfallovernight，buttherelicofthewinter。Ifoundmyselfinasnowgrottobeyondwhichnothingwasvisible。Hethenimpartedtomethecheerfulnewsthatthewatchmanhadchangedhismind，andnowrefusedtosetoutwithus。Itwastoolateinthedaytostart，themansaid，which，inviewofhishavinginformedusonlythenightbeforethatthesnowwouldnotbefittotravelontillthisveryhour，wasscarcelylogical。Thetroublelaynotintheway，butinthewill。Themanhadrepentedhimofhispromise。Thingslookdifferentlyascertaintiesinthemorningfromwhattheydoaspossibilitiesovernight。Fortunatelyheprovedamenabletoimportunity，andfinallyconsentedtogo。Hisfellowwasmuchworried，andfollowedhimdistressfullytotheouterthreshold;
　　whenceinperturbationofspirithewatchedusdepart，callingoutpatheticallytohismatetobeverycarefulofhimself。Hisalmostmotherlysolicitudeseemedtomemorecomicalatthetimethanitcametoseemlater。
　　Theskywaswithoutafleckofcloud，and，aswestruckoutacrossthesnow，Ifearedatfirstformyeyes，sogreatwastheglare。
　　ForIhadneithergogglesnorveil。Infact，wewereasunpreparedatroopaseverstartedonsuchanexpedition。Wehadnotapairoffootspikesnoraspikedpoletothelotofus。
　　Thejaggedpeaksofthevalley’swallnotchedtheskyinvividrelief，theirsharpteethbitingtheblue。Webelowwereblinking。
　　Luckilybeforeverylongwehadcrossedthelevelandwereattackingthewall，andonceonittheglarelessened，forwewerefacingthesouth，andtheslantoftheslopetookofffromthedirectnessofthesun’srays。Thehigherwerose，thegreaterthetiltbecame。Thefaceoftheslopewascompletelyburiedinsnowexceptwherethearetesstuckthrough，forthefacewaswellwrinkled。Theanglesoongrewunpleasanttovisage，andcertainlylookedtohaveexceededthelimitofstableequilibrium。Inmid-ascent，aswewerewindingcautiouslyup，aporterslipped。Hestoppedhimself，however，andwashelpedontohisfeetagainbyhisfellowbehind。Thebadbitwasprefacetoaworseeffectroundthecorner，foronturningthearete，wecameuponasnowslopelikeagigantichouse-roof。Itwasassteepasyouplease，anddisappearedafewhundredfeetbelowovertheedgeintotheabyss。Acrossandupthistheguide，afterlookingabouthim，struckout，andIfollowed。Thesnowwasinaplasticstate，andateachstepIkickedmytoeswellin，sowedgingmyfooting。Theviewdownwasveryunnerving。ItsoongrewsobadI
　　fixedmythoughtsolelyonmakingeachstepsecure，andwentslowly，whichwasmuchagainstmyinclination。Inthismannerwetackedgraduallyupwardinzigzags，somefortyfeetapart，eachofusimprovingthefootprintsofhispredecessor。
　　Afterashorteternity，wecameoutatthetop。Ithrewmyselfuponthesnow，andwhenIhadsufficientlyrecoveredmybreathaskedtheguide，withwhatImeantforsarcasm，whetherthatwashisideaof"agoodroad。"Heownedthatitwastheworstbitontheway，buthesomewhatgrudginglyconcededita"gake。"Isatcorrected，butintheinterestofanyfuturewandererIsubmitthefollowingdefinitionofa"gake，"which，ifnotstrictlyaccurate，atleastleanstotherightside。Ifthecliffoverhang，itisa"gake;"butifaplumblinefromthetopfallanywherewithinthebase，itisnolongera"gake，"but"agoodroad。"
　　Ontheothersidetheslopewasmorehospitable。Eventreeswinteredjustbelowthecrest，theirgreatgaunttrunksthrustdeepintothesnow。Weglissadeddownthefirstfewhundredfeet，tillwebroughtupstandingattheheadofanincipientgorge，likewisesmotheredinsnow。Roundthebolesofthetreesthesnowhadbeguntothaw，whichgavemeachancetomeasureitsdepth，byleaningovertherimofthecupandthrustingmypoledownasfarasIcouldreach。Thepointofitmusthavebeenoversevenfeetfromthesurface，andittouchednobottom。Myinvestigationstooktimeenoughtoputabendofthehollowbetweenmeandtheothers，andwhenatlastIlookeduptheywerenowheretobeseen。AsItrudgedafterthemaloneIfeltlikethatcominghistoricalcharacter，thelastmanonourthenfrozenearth。