Lime-makingmaylaborunderobjections，consideredgenerically，butthismethodofconductingthebusinessissusceptibleofadvantageousimitation。Itshouldcommenditselfatoncetotheatricalmanagersforabitofstageeffect。Evidentlyitisharmless。Nolessevidentlyitischeap;andinsomecasesitmightworkadoublebenefit。Impresariosmightthusconsumeallthepublicstatuaryaboutthetowntotheartisticeducationofthecommunity，besidesproducingmostrealisticresultsinthetheatre。
　　ThroughthecourtesyofsomeofthelaborersIwaspermittedtoenterasmallkilninwhichtheywerethenatwork。Iwentincautiously，andcameoutwithsomehaste，forthefumesoftheburning，whichquitefilledtheplace，mademefeelmyintrusiontoopoignantly。
　　Iamwillingtobelievetheworkthoroughlyenjoyablewhenonceyoubecomeusedtoit。Inthemeantime，Ishouldchooseitsalternative，——thepleasuresofadirtyfishingboatinanastyseaway，——ifIwereunfortunateenoughtomakeoneofthepopulation。Iliketobreathewithoutthinkingofit。
　　Thecharcoalusedintheprocesscame，theytoldme，fromNoto。
　　Ifeltathrillofprideinhearingthelandofmycourtingthusdistinctivelyspokenof，althoughthementionwerenotbywayofanyremarkablemerit。Atleasttheplacewashonorablyknownbeyonditsownborders;hadinfactacertainprestige。Fortheyadmittedtherewascharcoalintheirownprovince，butthebest，theyallagreed，camefromtheirneighboroverthesea。Theyspoketoappreciativeears。IwasonlytooreadytobelievethatthebestofanythingcamefromNoto。Didtheylaymyinteresttothescoreoflime-making，Iwonder，orweretheyinpartundeceivedwhenIaskedifNotowerevisiblefromwherewewere？
　　"Itwas，"theysaid，"onverycleardays。""DidIknowNoto？"Whatshallamansaywhenquestionedthusconcerningthatonwhichhehassethisheart？Hecannotsayyes;shallhesaynoandputhimselfwithoutthepaleofmereacquaintance？Thereisasenseofnearnessnottobejustifiedtoanother，andtheonetowhomamanmayfeelmostkinisnotalwayssheofwhomheknowsthemost。
　　"Iambywayofknowingit，"Isaid，asmyeyesfollowedmythoughtshorizonward。Wasitallmiragetheysaworthoughttosee，thatfaintcoastlinewashedalittledeeperblueagainstthesky？Ifearmeso，forthelime-burnersfailedtomakeitout。Thedaywasnotclearenough，theysaid。
　　Butthelittleheapofcharcoalatleastwasreal，andithadoncebeenatreeonthatfarthershore。Charcoaltothem，itwasnolongercommoncharcoaltome;for，lookingatit，wasInotfacetofacewithsomethingthathadonceformedpartofNoto，theunknown！
　　VII。
　　OyaShiradzu，KoShiradzu。
　　Towardthemiddleoftheafternoonwereachedapartofthecoastlocallyfamousorinfamous，forthetwowereone;astretchofsomemileswherethemountainsmadenoapologyforfallingabruptlyintothesea。Sheerforseveralhundredfeet，theshoreishereunscalable。
　　Nordiditusetobepossibletogoroundbyland，forthecliffsaremerelytheendsofmountain-chains，themselvesutterlywildandtractless。AnarrowstripofsandwasthesolelinkbetweenEtchiuontheonehandandEchigoontheother。ThenativescalltheplaceOyashiradzu，koshiradzu，thatis，aspotwherethefathernolongerknowsthechild，northechildthefather;soobliteratingtosenseofallbesideisthepersonaldanger。Refugethereisnoneofanykind。Tohavebeencaughthereinastormonthemakingtide，mustindeedhavebeentolookdeathintheface。
　　Betweenthedevilofaprecipiceandthedeepsea，hewhoventuredonthepassagemusthavehurriedanxiouslyalongthethreadofsand，hopingtoreachthelastbendintime。Asheroundstheill-omenedcornerheseesheistoolate;alreadythesurfisbreakingagainstthecliff。Heturnsbackonlytofindretreatbarredbehindbyrollersthathavecreptinsincehepassed。Hisveryfootprintshaveallbeenwashedaway。Caged！Likethewallsofadeep-downdungeontheperpendicularclifftowersathisside，andinthepittheyrim，heandtheangryoceanareleftalonetogether。Thentheseabeginstoplaywithhim，creepingcatlikeup。Herhugepaws，thebreakers，buffethisface。Thewaterisalreadyabouthisfeet，ashebacksdesperatelyupagainsttherock。Andeachwavecomescrushinginwithacruelgrowltostrike——shortthistime。Butthenextbreakscloser，andthenextcloserstill。Heclimbsaboulder。Thesprayblindshim。Hehearsadeafeningroar;feelsashockthathurlshimintospace，andheknowsnomore。
　　Nowtheplaceisfearfulonlytofancy。Foraroadhasbeenbuilt，beltingthecliffshundredsoffeetabovethetide。Itisapartofwhatisknownasthenewroad，anameitislikelylongtokeep。
　　Itssidesareinplacessosteepthatitfailsofitsfootingandisconstantlyslippingoffintothesea。Suchsadmisstepsaretheoccasionforbandsofconvictstoappearonthesceneunderthemarshalingofapoliceofficerandbesettoworktorepairtheslidebydiggingalittledeeperintothemountain-side。Theconvictswearclothesofalightbrick-colorwhichatadistancelooksalittlelikecouleurderose，whilethepolicearedressedinsombreblue。Itwouldseemsomewhatofasatireonthefacts！
　　Thenewroadisnotwithoutitssensationtosuchasdislikelookingdown。Fortunately，thejinrikishamenhavenottheinstinctofpackmulestobepersistentlytriflingwithitsouteredge。
　　Inadditiontothevoidattheside，anothershowedeverynowandtheninfront，whereadipandaturncompletelyhidtheroadbeyond。
　　Theveritableendoftheworldseemedtobetherejustahead，closeagainstthevacancyofspace。Acoupleofrodsmoreandwemuststepoff——indeedtheendoftheworldforusifwehad。
　　WhentheroadcametofacetheOyashiradzu，koshiradzu，itattackedtherisebyfirstrunningawayfromitupastreamintothemountains;
　　abitofthewisdomoftheserpentthatenabledittogainmuchheightonthebendback。Treesvaultedthewaytapestryingitwiththeirleaves，betweenwhichonecaughtpeepsatthesea，ashimmerofbluethroughashimmerofgreen。Thepathwasstrungwithpedlarsandpilgrims;thelatterofbothsexesandallages，undermushroomhatswiththeirskirtsneatlytuckedinatthewaist，showingtheirleggings;theformerdoingfulcrumdutytoacoupleofbasketsswungonapoleovertheirshoulders。ThepilgrimswereontheirwaybackfromZenkoji。Someofthemwouldhavetrampedovertwohundredmilesonfootbeforetheyreachedhomeagain。Arichharvesttheybroughtback，religion，travel，andexerciseallinone，enoughtokeepthemhappylong。IknowofnothingwhichwouldmorepersuademetobeaBuddhistthanthesesamedelightfulpilgrimages。Freshair，freshscenesontheroad，andfreshfaithattheendofit。NodesertcaravanofpenancetotheseMeccas，butasummer’sstrollunderasummer’ssky。Anendthatsanctifiesthemeansandameansthatnolessjustifiesitsend。
　　Whilewewerestillinthewaywiththesepiousfolkwetouchedourmiddayhalt，awaysideteahousenotchedinacorneroftheroadcommandingapanoramicviewoverthesea。Theplacewaskeptbyadeafoldladyandhertaillesscat。Theoldlady’speculiaritywaspersonal;thecat’swasnot。Noself-respectingcatinthispartofJapancouldpossiblywearatail。Thenorthernbranchofthefamilyhaslongsincediscardedthatreallyuselessfelineappendage。Adoginlikecircumstancewouldbesadlystraitenedintheexpressionofhisemotions，butacatiseverywhitacatwithoutacontinuation。
　　Withthedeafoldladywehad，forobviousreasons，nosustainedconversation。Shebusiedherselfforthemostpartinmakingdango，akindofdumpling，butnotonecalculatedtostircuriosity，sinceitismadeofriceallthrough。Theseourmenatewithmorerelishthanwouldseempossible。MeanwhileIsatawayfromtheroadwhereI
　　couldlookoutupontheseaoverthecliffs，andthecatpurredaboutinheroffhandwayandusedmeincidentallyasarubbingpost。Treesfringedthepictureinfront，andtheribbonofroadwoundoffthroughitintothedistance，beadedwithfolk，andshotwithsunshineandshadow。
　　Iwassorrywhenlunchwasoverandwetookleaveofourgentlehostesses;tabbiesbothofthem，yetnounpleasingpair。Afewmorebendsbroughtustowherethepathculminated。Theroadhadforsometimelainbaretotheseaandsky，butatthesupremepointsomefinebeechesmadeanaturalscreenmaskingthenakedfaceoftheprecipice。
　　Onthecuttingabove，fourhugeChinesecharactersstoodgravedintherock。
　　"Yanogotoku，tonogotoshi。"
　　"Smoothasawhetstone，straightasanarrow，"meaningthecliff。
　　Perhapsbecauseoftheirpictorialdescent，thecharactersdidnotshockone。Unliketheusualbrandingofnature，theyseemednotoutofkeepingwiththespot。Notfarbeyond，thebuttsofthewinter’sneve，buriedindirt，bankedthepath。
　　Formilesalongtheraodtheviewoffwassuperb。Nothingborderedonesideofthewayandthemountainborderedtheother。Farbelowlaythesea，stretchingawayintoblueinfinity，avastsemicircleofultramarinedomedbyahemisphereofazure;anditwasnoticeablehowmuchvasterthesealookedthanthesky。Weweresohighaboveitthattheheavingsofitslongerswellswereleveledtoimperceptibility，whilethewavesonlygravedthemotionlesssurface。Hereandtheretherufflingsofabreezeshowedindarkermarkings，likethechangesonwateredsilk。Themostephemeraldisturbancemadethemostshow。
　　Dottedovertheblueexpansewereblackspots，fishingboats;andasteamerwithalongtrailofsmokeshowedintheoffing，stationarytotheeye，yetshiftingitsplaceliketheshadowofastylewhenyouforgottolook。Andinlongperspectiveoneitherhandstretchedthebattlementofcliff。Visualimmensitylaytherebeforeus，ineachofitsthreemanifestations;ofline，ofsurface，andofspace。
　　Westoodstill，thebettertotrytotakeitin——thisgrandeurtemperedbysunshineandwarmth。Dowhathewill，manisverymuchthecreatureofhissurroundingsyet。Insomeinstantsense，theeyesfashionthefeelings，andweourselvesgrowbroaderwithourhorizon’sbreadth。TheChaldeanshepherdsalonewiththenighthadgranderthoughtsforthecompanionship，andIventuretobelievethattheheartofthemountaineerowesquiteasmuchtowhatheisforcedtovisageastowhatheiscompelledtodo。
　　Wetuckedourselvesintoourjinrikishaandstarteddown。Byvirtueofgoing，thespeedincreased，tillthewaywerolledroundthecurveswasintoxicating。Thepanoramabelowswungtomatch，andweleanedinoroutmechanicallytotrimthebalance。Occasionally，asithitsomestone，thevehiclegavealurchthatstartledusforamomentintosobriety，fromwhichwestraightwayrelapsedintoexhilaration。Curiousthis，howthebodybringsaboutitsownforgetting。ForIwasconsciousonlyofmind，andyetmindwastheonepartofmenotinmotion。Isupposemuchoxygenmademetipsy。
　　Ifso，itisarecommendabletipple。Spiritswerenotunhappilynamedafterthenaturalarticle。
　　ItwaslateafternoonwhenweissuedatlastfromourtwodaysThermopylaeupontheEtchiuplain。Aswedrewoutintoitsexpanse，thegiantpeaksoftheTateyamarangecameintoviewfrombehindtheirfoothills，drapedstillintheirwinterermine。Itwaslastyearyetinthoseupperregionsoftheworld，butallaboutusbelowthrobbedwiththeheartbeatsofthespring。Ateachmile，amidtheeverlengtheningshadows，natureseemedtogrowmoresentient。
　　Throughthethickairthepeaksstoodoutagainsttheeasternsky，insaffronthatflushedtoroseandthenpaledtogray。Thericefields，alreadyfloodedfortheirfirstworking，mirroredtheglowoverheadsoglassilythattheirdykesseemedtofloat，insunsetillusion，amerebartraceryofearthbetweentheskyaboveandaskybeneath。
　　Uponsuchlatticeofaworldwejourneyedinmid-heaven。Stealthilytheshadowsgathered;andasthehourforconfidencesdrewon，naturetookusintohers。Thetreesinthetwilight，justbreakingintoleaf，stoodingroupsamongthefieldsandwhisperedlowtooneanother，noddingtheirheads;andthenfromouttheshadowoftheMayeveningcamethecroakingofthefrogs。Strangelythesoundfittedthehour，withitsliketouchofmysterioussuggestion。Asthetwilightindefinite，itpervadedeverything，yetwasneveranywhere。
　　Deafeningatadistance，ithushedatourapproachonlytobeginagainbehindus。Will-o’-the-wispoftheear，infatuatingbecauseforeverillusive！Andthedistanceandthenumbersblendedwhathadperhapsbeenharshintoamellowwholethatfilledthegloamingwithasortofvoice。IbegantounderstandwhytheJapanesearesofondofitthattheydeemitnotunworthyaplaceinnature’svocalpantheonbutlittlelowerthanthesongofthenightingale，andechoitssentimentinverse。Andindeeditseemstomethathissoulmustbeconventionallytunedinwhomthiseven-songofthericefieldsstirsnoresponsivechord。
　　VIII。
　　AcrosstheEtchiuDelta。
　　Thetwilightlingered，andtheroadthreadeditstortuouscourseformilesthroughthericeplain，borderedoneitherhandbythedykesofthepaddyfields。Everyfewhundredfeet，wepassedafarmhousescreenedbyclippedhedgerowsandbosomedintrees;andatlongerintervalswerolledthroughsomevillage，thecountrypikebecomingforthetimethevillagestreet。Thelandwasanarchipelagoofhomesteadinaseaofrice。Butthetreesaboutthedwellingssocutuptheview，thatforthemomentsofpassingthemindforgotitwasallsoflatandcamebacktoitsoceaninsurprise，whenthenextvistaopenedonthesides。
　　Thingshadalreadybecomesilhouetteswhenwedashedintolantern-lightedMikkaichi。Wetooktheplaceinform，andafinesensationwemade。Whatbetweentheshoutsoftherunnersandtheclatterofthechaisesmen，womenandchildrenmadehastetoclearatrack，snatchingtheirlittleonesbackandthenstaringatusaswesweptpast。Indeed，theteamsputtheirbestfeetforemostforlocaleffect，andmorethanoncecamewithinanaceofrunningoversomeurchinwhoeitherwouldnotorcouldnotgetoutoftheway。
　　Fortunatelynocasualtiesoccurred。Foritwouldhavebeenignominioustohavebeenarrestedbythepoliceduringourfirsttenminutesinthetown，nottospeakofthesaddampeningtoourfeelingsanaccidentwouldhavecaused。
　　Inthismadmannerwedashedupthelongmainstreet。Wewereforcedtotaketheside，forthevillageaqueductorgutter——itservedbothpurposes——monopolizedthemiddle。Atshortintervals，itwasspannedbycausewaysmadeofslabsofstone。Overoneofthesewemadeafinalswirlanddrewupbeforetheinn。Thenourshaftsmadetheirobeisancetotheground。
　　Awarmwelcomegreetedtheappeal。Acrowdofservantscamerushingtothefrontofthehousewithaneyetobusiness，andacrowdofvillagefolkwithaneyetopleasureclosedinbehind。Betweenthetwofireswesteppedoutandenteredthesidecourt，tothesatisfactionoftheoneaudienceandthechagrinoftheother。
　　Butitisimpossibletopleaseeverybody。
　　Fortunatelyitwasnotsohardtopleaseus，andcertainlytheinnpeopledidtheirbest;fortheyledthewaytowhatformerlywerethestateapartments，thatpartofthehousewherethedaimyoofKagahadbeenwonttolodgewhenhestoppedhereovernightonhisjourneynorth。Thoughithadfallensomewhatintodisrepair，itwasstilltheplaceofhonorintheinn，andthereforepolitelyputattheserviceofonefrombeyondsea。ThereIsuppedinsolitarystate，andthereIsleptrightroyallyamidtherelicsofformersplendor，doubtingalittlewhethersomeunlaidghostofbygonetimesmightnotcometoclaimhisown，andoustmeatblackmidnightbytherats，hisretinue。
　　Butnothingshortofthesuncalledmebacktoconsciousnessandbademeopentothetinygarden，whereapairofduckswerepreeningtheirfeathersafteranearlybathintheirownlittlelake。Ontheverandamylakealreadystoodprepared;abrassbasinuponawoodenstand，accordingtothecustomofthecountry。SoducksandI
　　dabbledandprinkedinallinnocenceinthegarden，whichmightwellhavebeenthegardenofEdenforanyhintitgaveofaworldbeyond。
　　Itwasmyfate，too，toleaveitafterthesamemanner。
　　Forbreakfastoverwewereoncemoreoftheroad。
　　Wehadalongdayofitbeforeus，forIpurposedtocrosstheEtchiudeltaandsleepthatnightonthethresholdofmyhopes。Theday，likealldaysthatlooklongonthemap，provedstilllongeronthemarch。Itsitinerarydiversifieddiscomfort。Firstseventeenmilesinkuruma，thenaferry，thenatrampoftwelvemilesalongthebeachthroughaseriesofsanddunes;thenanotherferry，andfinallyasecondwalkofsevenmilesandahalfoversomefoothillstotopoffwith。Theinexpensivenessofthetransportwasthesolerelievingfeatureoftheday。Not，Imean，becausethegreaterandworsehalfofthejourneywasdoneonourownfeet，butbecauseofthecheapchargesofthechaisesandevenoftheporters。Torunatadogtrot，trundlinganotherinababycarriage，seventeenmilesfortwentycentsisnot，Ihold，anextortionateprice。Certaindetailsofthetariff，however，arepeculiar。Forinstance，iftwomensharetheworkbyrunningtandem，thefareismorethandoubled;aratiointheartofproportionsurprisingatfirst。Eachmanwouldseemtochargeforbeinghelped。Thefactis，thegreaterspeedexpectedofthepairmorethanoffsetsthedecreaseddraft。
　　Otherwise，asIsay，thedaywasdepressing。Itwasnotmerelythetrampthroughthesanddunesthatwasregrettable，thoughheavenknowsIwouldnotwillinglytakeitagain。Thesandhadfartoohospitableatrickofholdingontoyouateverysteptobetomyliking。Besides，thesun，whichhadcomeoutwithsummerinsistence，chosethatparticularspotforitsmiddaysiesta，andlaythereatfulllength，whiletheairwaspreternaturallystill。Itwasastupidlydrowsyheatthatgavenofilliptothefeet。
　　Butsuchdiscomfortwasmerelybytheway。TherealtroublebeganatFushiki，thetownonthefarthersideofthesecondferry。Inthefirstplacethespothad，whatismostuncommoninJapan，averysorrylook，whichwasdepressinginitself。Secondly，itsinhabitantsweremuchtoobusyormuchtoounemployed，orboth，tobeabletoattendtostrangersatthathouroftheafternoon。Consequentlyitwasalmostimpossibletogetanyonetocarrythebaggage。
　　Wedispatchedemissaries，however。Bygoodluckwesecuredsomebeer，andthenarguedourselvesdryagainontheluggagequestion。
　　Theemissarieswereatwork，wewereassured，andatlastsomeonewhohadbeensentforwassaidtobecoming。Stilltimedraggedon，untilfinallytheburdenbearersturnedup，andturnedouttobe——women。
　　AtthisIrebelled。Thesituationwasnotnew，butitwasnonethelessimpossible。Inout-of-the-waydistrictsIhadrefusedoffersofthekindbefore。ForJapanesebeastsofburdenruninadecreasingscaleasfollows，accordingtothepovertyoftheplace：jinrikisha，horses，bulls，men，women。Idrawmylineatthelast。Iamwellawarehowabsurdtheobjectsthemselvesregardsuchaprotectivepolicy，butIclingtomyprejudices。TothepresentprofferIwasadamant。Tostepjauntilyalonginairyunencumberednessmyself，whileastringofwomentrudgedwearilyafter，loadedwithmyheavypersonaleffects，wasmorethananAnglo-Saxonattitudetowardsthesexcouldstand。Iwouldnoneofthem，tothesurpriseanddismayoftheinnlandlord，andtothenoslightwonderofthewomen。
　　Thediscardingwasnotaneasypieceofwork。Thefaironeswerepresentatit，andIhavenodoubtmisinterpretedthemotive。
　　Forwomenhaveaweaknessforatouchoftheslave-masterinaman。
　　Beside，"hellhathnofurylikeawomanscorned，"thoughitbeonlyinthecapacityofaporter。Therewasnothingforit，however，buttoletitgoatthat。Fortohaveexplainedwithmoreinsistencewouldinfalliblyhavedeepenedtheirsuspicionsofwoundedvanity。
　　Butitdidseemhardtobeobligedtofeelabruteforrefusingtobeone。
　　Thelandlord，thankstomyimportunities，managedaftersomefurtherdelaytosecureacoupleoflustylads，relatives，Isuspect，ofthediscardedfairones，andwiththemweeventuallysetout。Wehadnotgonefar，whenIcametoconsider，unjustly，nodoubt，thattheyjourneyedtooslow。ImighthavethoughtdifferentlyhadIcarriedthechattelsandtheythepurse。Ishudderedtothinkwhatthesituationwouldhavebeenwithwomen，fortheneventhepoorsolaceofremonstrancewouldhavebeendenied。Asitwas，Ispentmuchbreathintryingtohurrythem，anditispleasanternowthanitwasthentoreflecthowfutilely。ForIratedthemroundly，whiletheyacceptedmyverbalgoadingswiththetrainedstolidityoffolkwhowereusedtoit。
　　Whenatlastweapproachedthevillageofourdestination，whichborethenameofHimi，itwasalreadydusk，andthiswiththelongMaytwilightmeantalatehourbeforeweshouldbecomfortablyhoused。
　　Indeed，Ihadbeenquarteredinanticipationforthelastfewmiles，andwasonlyawaitingarrivaltoenterintoinstantpossessionofmyfanciedestate。Notcontentevenwithpureinsubstantiality，IhadinterviewedvariouspeoplethroughYejiroonthesubject。First，theportershadbeenexhaustivelycatechized，andthenwhatwayfarerswechancedtomeethadbeenbuttonholedbeside;withtheresultofmuchcontradictoryinformation。Thereseemedtobeaninnwhichwas，Iwillnotsaygood，butthebest，butnotwoinformantscouldagreeincallingitbyname。OnethoughtherememberedthattheNorthInnwastheplacetogoto;anotherthathehadheardtheWistariaHousespeciallycommended。
　　Alldoubts，however，weresetatrestwhenwereachedthetown。
　　Forwithouttheslightesthesitation，everyoneofthehousesinquestionrefusedtotakeusin。Theunanimitywaswonderfulconsideringthelackofcollusion。YejiroandImadeasmanyunsuccessfulapplicationstogetherasIcouldstand。ThenIwentandsatdownonthesillofthefirstteahouseforabaseofoperations——Icannotsayformyheadquarters，becausethatisjustwhatwecouldnotget——andgavemyselfuptomelancholy。MeanwhileYejiroransackedthetown，fromwhichexcursionshereturnedeveryfewminuteswithafreshrefusal，butthesameexcuse。ItgotsoatlastIcouldanticipatetheexcuse。Theinnwasfullalready——ofassessorsandtheirvictims。Theassessorshaddescendedonthespot，itseemed，andthewholecountry-sidehadcometotowntolieaboutthevalueofitsland。Ionlywishedtheinhabitantsmighthavechosensomeothertimeforfalseswearing。Foritwasasadtaxonmycredulity。
　　WedidindeedgetoneofferwhichIdulywenttoinspect，buttheoutsideofthehousesatisfiedme。AtlastIadoptedextrememeasures。IsentYejiroofftothepolicestation。Thismoveproduceditseffect。
　　Evenathome，fromhavingcontrivedtokeeponthesunnysideofthelawandorder，myfeelingstowardthepolicearefriendlyenoughforallpracticalpurposes;butinnolandhaveIsuchanaffectionateregardfortheconstabularyasinJapan。Membersoftheforcethere，ifthetermbeapplicabletoasetofstudentsspectacledfromover-study，whosestrengthisentirelymoral，nevergetyouintotrouble，andusuallygetyououtofit。Oneoftheirchiefcharmstothetravelerliesintheiropen-sesameeffectuponobduratelandlords。Inthistricktheyarewonderfullysuccessful。
　　Havinggivenourselvesuptothepolice，therefore，wewerealreadybywayofbeinglodged，andthatquickly。Soindeeditproved。
　　Inthetimetogoandcome，Yejiroreappearedwithanofficerincivilian’sclothes，whofirstmadeprofuseapologiesforpresentinghimselfinundress，butitseemedhewasoffdutyatthemoment，——andthenledthewayastone’sthrowroundthecorner;andinfiveminutesIwassittingassnuglyasyoupleaseinacapitalroominaninn’sthirdstory，sippingteaandpeckingatsugarplums，adistinctlyhonoredguest。
　　Herefateputinatouchofsatire。Foritnowappearedthatallourtroublewasquitegratuitous。Mostsurprisinglytheinnkeepers’
　　storyonthisoccasionprovedtobeentirelytrue，apossibilityI
　　hadneverentertainedforasecond;andfurthermoreitappearedthatourpresentinnwastheoneinwhichIhadbeenofferedroomsbuthadrefused，dislikingitsexterior。
　　Suchistherewardforactingongeneralprinciples。
　　IX。
　　OvertheArayamaPass。
　　Themorningthatwastogivememyself-promisedlandcreptontiptoeintotheroomonthethirdstory，andtouchedmewhereIslept，andonpushingtheshojiapartandlookingout，Ibeheldasfairadayasheartcouldwish。Afaintmistyvapor，likeabridalveil，wasjustliftingfromoffthefaceofthings，andlettingtheskyshowthroughinblue-eyeddepths。Itwasamorningofdesire，bashfulforitsyouthasyet，butgracedwithadepthofatmospheresuretoexpandintoafull，warm，perfectnoon;andIhastenedtobeoutandbecomeapartofit。
　　Threejinrikishasstoodwaitingourcomingatthedoor，andamidstapeltingofsayonarafromthewholehousehold，wedashedoffasproudlyaspossibledownthemainstreetofthetown，totheadmirationofmanylookers-on。Theair，ladenwithmoisture，leftkissesonourcheeksaswehurriedby，whilethesunshinefellinlongscarfsofgauzyshimmerovertheshouldersoftheeasternhills。
　　Themenintheshaftsfeltthefillipofitallandencouragedoneanotherwithlustycries，alight-heartednessthatlentthemheels。
　　Eventhepeasantsinthefieldsseemedtowishuswell，astheylookedupfromtheirworktogringood-humoredly。
　　Wevaluemostwhatweattainwithdifficulty。Itwasonthisprinciplenodoubtthattheroadconsideratelyproceededtogiveout。
　　Itdegeneratedindeedveryrapidlyafterlosingsightofthetown，andsoonwasnomorethanacollectionofholesstrungonruts，thatmadetravelinperambulatorstiringaliketobodyandsoul。Atlast，afterfivemilesoffloundering，itgaveupallpretenceatawheel-way，anddepositedusatawaysideteahouseatthefootofalittlevalley，thefirststepindeeduptheArayamapass。Lowhillshadclosedinontheright，shuttingoffthesea，andtheridgedividingNotofromEtchiuroseinhigherlinesupontheleft。
　　Herewehiredporters，securingthemfromtheneighboringfields，fortheywereprimarilypeasants，andwereportersonlyasweweretramps，byvirtueofthecountry。Porteragebeingthesolemeansoftransport，theycametocarryourthingsastheywouldhavecarriedtheirown，inskeletonhodsstrappedtotheirbacks。InthistheydidnotdifferfromtheJapanesecustomgenerally;butinonepointtheyshowedastrangeadvanceovertheirfellows。Theywerewonderfullymethodicalfolk。Theypaidnoheedtoourhurry，andinsteadofshoulderingthebaggagetheyproceededtoweighit，eachmanloadbyitself，onasteelyardofwoodsixfeetlong;theresultstheythenworkedoutconscientiouslyonanabacus。AfterwhichI
　　paidaccordingly。Trulyanequitableadjustmentbetweenmanandman，atwhichIlostonlythetimeittook。Thenwestarted。
　　Fromtheteahousethepathrosesteadilyenoughforsouneducatedaway，leavingthevalleytocontractintoanopenglen。Theday，inthemeantime，cameoutasithadpromised，fullandwarm，finebaskingweather，asacertainsnakeinthepathseemedtothink。So，Ijudge，didtheporters。Ifitbethepacethatkills，thesesimplefolkmustbealong-livedrace。Theycertainlywereverycarefulnottohurrythemselves。Hadtheybeenhiredforlife，sothriftyahusbandingoftheirstrengthwouldhavebeenmostgratifyingtowitness;unluckilytheyweremineonlyforthejob。Theymoved，onefootaftertheother，withamechanicalprecision，exhaustingeventolookat。Tokeepwiththemwaspracticallyimpossibleforanordinarypedestrian。Nothingshortofawomanshoppingcouldworthilyhavematchedtheirpace。Insighttheirspeedwassnail-like;outofittheywouldappeartohavestopped，sofardidtheyfallbehind。
　　OnceIthoughttheyhadturnedback。
　　ThepathwewerefollowingwastheleasttraveledoftheonlytwopossibleentrancesintoNotobyland。Itwasasideorposterngatetotheplace，overagaponthenorthernendofamountainwall;
　　themainapproachlyingalongitsotherflank。Forahighrangeofuninhabitedhillsnearlydamsthepeninsulaacross，fallingontherightsidestraightintothesea，butleavingontheotheralowlandligaturethatbindsNototoKaga。TogetfromKagaintoEtchiu，therangehastobecrossedlowerdown。OurdipinthechainwascalledtheArayamatogeorRoughMountainpass，andwasperhapsfifteenhundredfeethigh，butpleasinglymodeledinitslinesafteronetentimesitsheight。
　　Half-wayupthetugofthelastfurlong，wheretheascentbecamesteepenoughforzig-zags，Iturnedtolookback。Downawayfrommefellthevalley，slippingbyreasonofitsownslopeoutintothegreatEtchiuplain。Hereandthereshowedbitsofthepathincorkscrew，frommypersonalstandpointallperfectlyporterless。
　　Overthelowhills，totheleft，laythesea，thecrescentofitsgreatbeachsweepinggrandlyroundintotheindistinguishabledistance。BackofitstretchedtheEtchiuplain，butbeyondthat，nothing。Themountainsthatshouldhaveboundeditwerelosttosightinthespringhaze。
　　Mechanicallymyeyesfollowedupintothelanguidblue，whensuddenlytheychanceduponalittlecloud，forcloudItookittobe。
　　Yetsomethingaboutitstruckmeasstrange，andscanningitmoreclosely，bythismostnaturalkindofsecondsight，Imarkedtheunmistakableglistenofsnow。Itwasasnowpeaktoweringthereinisolatedmajesty。AsIgazeditgrewonmewithineffablegrandeur，sparklingwithafaintsaffronglamourofitsown。ShiftingmylookalittleIsawanotherandthenanotherofthevisions，likepuffsofsteam，risingabovetheplain。Halfapparitions，belowacertainline，thesnowline，theyvanishedintoair，forbetweenthemandthesolidearththerelookedtobebluesky。Thehazeofdistance，onthissoftMayday，hidtheirlowerslopesandleftthepeakstotoweraloneintothevoid。TheywerethegiantsoftheTateyamarange，standingthereoveragainstmeinaccessiblysuperb。
　　Apairofteahouses，rivals，crownedthesummitofthepass，which，likemostJapanesepasses，wasamereknife-edgeofearth。Withaquickenedpulseifaslackenedgait，Itoppedthecrest，walked——straightpastthetwinteahousesandtheirimportunitiestostop——
　　anotherhalf-dozenpacestothebrink，andinonesweeplookeddownoverathousandfeetonthewesternside。Noto，eyelashedbythebranchesofatreejustbreakingintoleaf，layopentomebelow。
　　Afterthefirstglowofattainment，thisinitialviewwas，Iwillconfess，disillusioning。Insteadofwhatunfetteredfancyhadledmetoexpect，Isawonlyalotofterracedrice-fieldsbackedbyrangesoflowhills;foralltheworldaparquetingreenandbrowntiles。
　　Andyet，asthewishtoexcusepromptedmetothink，wasthisnot，afterall，asitshouldbe？ForIwaslookingbutattheentrancetotheland，itsouterhallway，asitwere;Nanao，itscapital，itsinlandsea，allitsbeyondwasstillshutfrommebythenearerhills。Andfeelingthusatlibertytobeamused，Iforthwithsawitasasatireonpanoramasgenerally。
　　Panoramicviewsarepainfullyplain。Theymustneedsbemappyatbest，foryourownelevationflattensallbelowittoonetopographiclevel。Fieldandwoodland，townorlake，showbytheircolorsonlyasiftheystoodinprint;andyoumightaswelllayanygoodatlasonthefloorandsurveyitfromtheloftyheightofafootstool。
　　Suchbeingtheinevitable，itwasrefreshingtoseethethingincaricature。Nopains，evidently，hadbeensparedbytheinhabitantstomaketheirmaprealistic。Therethegeometriclinesallstoodinludicrousinsistence;anychildcouldhavedrawnthethingasmechanically。
　　Thetwoteahouseswerewellpatronizedbywayfarersofbothsexes，restingaftertheirclimb。Somesimplysippedtea，chatting;othersmadearegularmealoftheopportunity。Thegreaternumbersat，aswedid，onthesill，forthetroubleoftakingofftheirstrawsandals。
　　Ourlandladywasthemodelofwhatalandladyshouldbe，foritwasapparentlyafeminineestablishment。Iftherewasamanattachedtoit，hekepthimselfdiscreetlyinthebackground。Shewasakind，sympatheticsoul，withawordforeveryone，andadeliberatenessofactionaseffectiveasitwasefficient。Andinthemidstofitall，shekeptuparefrainofwelcomesandgood-bys，asnewcomersappearedoroldcomersleft。Theunavoidablepreliminaryexerciseandthecrispairwhettedallourappetites。SoIdoubtnotshedroveathrivingtrade，althoughtoWesternideasofvalueherchargeswereinfinitesimallysmall。
　　Middayhaltsforluncharegodsendstotrampswhotravelwithporters。
　　Theycompeltheporterstocatchup，andgivethehireropportunitytosaythingswhichatleastrelievehim，iftheydonogood。Ihadbeguntofearourswoulddeprivemeofthispleasure，andindeedhadgotsofaroninmymealastocarelittlewhethertheydid，whenautomaticallytheyappeared。Fortunatelytheyneededbutashortrest，andasthedescentontheNotosidewasmuchsteeperthanontheother，halfanhour’swalkbroughtustothelevelofkurumaoncemore。
　　AbitoflanealmostEnglishinlook，boweredintreesandwindingdelightfullylikesomehumanstream，ledustoateahouse。Whilewewereorderingchaisesalotofchildrengatheredtoinspectus，thuskindlygivingusourfirstviewofthenatives。Theylookedmoreopen-eyedthanJapanesegenerally，butsucheffectmayhavebeenduetowonder。Atallevents，thestare，ifitwasastare，seemedlikeasilentsortofwelcome。
　　LeavingthechildrenstillgazingafteruswebowledawaytowardNanao，andinthecourseoftimecaughtourfirstglimpseofitfromtheupperendofasweepofmeadows。Itsatbythewater’sedgeattheheadofalandlockedbay，thenearerarmoftheinlandsea;andanapologyforshippingrodeintheoffing。Itseemedaveryfair-sizedtown，andaltogetheramorelivelyplacethanIhadthoughttofind。Clearlyitslifewasasengrossingtoitasifnowallofhillsnotchingtheskyshutouttheworldbeyond。Havingheard，however，thatawatering-placecalledWakurawasthesightoftheprovince，andlearningnowthatitwasbutsixmilesfurther，wedecided，asitwasyetearlyintheafternoon，topushon，andtakethecapitallater。Wedidtakeitlater，verymuchlaterthenextnight，thanwaspleasing。
　　Wakura，indeed，wastheonethinginNoto，exceptthecharcoal，whichhadanultra-Noto-riousreputation。RumorsofithadreachedusasfarawayasShinshiu，andwitheveryfreshinquirywemadeasweadvancedtherumorshadgatheredstrength。Ourinformantsspokeofitwiththevaguerespectaccordedhearsayhonor。Clearly，itwasnoplacetopassby。
　　TheroadtoitfromNanaowasnotnoteworthy，butfortwothings;oneofficiallycommendedtosight-seers，theothernot。Thefirstwasacuriouswater-wornrockupontheedgeofthebay，somewaifofaboulder，doubtless，sinceitstuckupquitealoneoutofthesand。
　　Ashrineperchedatop，andalargertempleencircleditbelow，towhichitsfantasticcuttingsservedasgatewayandgarden。Theuncommendedsightwasaneighboringpaddyfield，inwhichacompanyoffrogs，caughttrespassing，stoodimpaledonsticksafoothigh，asawfulwarningstotheirkind。Beyondthisthewaypassedthroughastringofclaycuttingsfollowingthecoast，andingoodtimerolledusintothemidstofacollectionofbarnlikebuildingswhichitseemedwasWakura。
　　Theseasonforthebathshadnotyetbegun，sothatthenumberofpeopleatthehotelswasstillquitesmall。Notsothecatalogueofcomplaintsforwhichtheywerevisited。ThelistappalledmeasI
　　satonthethresholdofmyprospectivelodging，listeningtominehost’sencomiumsonthevirtuesofthewaters。Heexpatiatedeloquentlyonboththequantityandqualityofthecures，quiteunsuspiciousthatateachfreshrecommendationhewasinmyeyesdepreciatinghisownwares。DidhehopethatamongsuchahandsomechoiceofdiseasesImightatleasthaveone！Iwasveryneartobeatingahastyretreatonthespot。FortheaccommodationinJapaneseinnsisofadistressinglycommunisticcharacteratbest，andalthoughatpresenttherewerefewpatientsintheplace，thegermswerepresumablystillthereonthelookoutforavictim。
　　Immediatecomfort，however，gettingthebetterofproblematicalrisk，Iwentin。Theroomallottedmelayonthegroundfloorjustoffthegarden，andIhadnotbeentheremanyminutesbeforeIbecameaware，asonedoes，thatIwasbeingstaredat。Theculpritinstantlypretended，withaverysheepishair，tobeonlytakingawalk。Hewasthevanguardofanarmyofthecurious。Thepeopleinthenextroomweremuchexercisedoverthenewarrival，anddidalldecencyallowedtocatchaglimpseofme;forwhichintimetheywererewarded。Visitorslodgedfartherofftookaimlessstrollstotheverandas，andlookedatmewhentheythoughtIwasnotlookingatthem。Allenviedtheservants，whoout-didAbrabycomingwhenI
　　callednobody，andthenlingeringtotalk。AltogetherIwasmoreofanotorietythanIeverhopetobeagain;especiallyasanyEuropeanwouldhavedonethemaswell。Mypublicwouldhavebeengreater，asIafterwardslearned，ifYejirohadnotbeenholdingrivalcourtinthekitchen。
　　Betweenusweweregivenagooddealoflocalinformation。Onebitfailedtocausemeunmitigateddelight。Wewerenot，itappeared，thefirstforeignerstosetfootinWakura。TwoEuropeanshad，inaquiteuncalled-forway，descendedupontheplacethesummerbefore，uptowhichtime，indeed，thespothadbeenvirgintoCaucasians。
　　Luredbythefameofthesprings，thesemenhadcomefromKanazawainKaga，wheretheywereengagedinteachingchemistry，tomakeatestofthewaters。Ibelievetheydiscoverednothingstartling。Icouldhavepredictedasmuchhadtheyconsultedmebeforehand。Theyneglectedtodoso，andtheresultwastheycame，sawandconqueredwhatlittlenoveltytheplacehad。Iwasquitechagrined。Itsimplyshowedhowbetroddenintheselatterdaystheworldis。Thereisnotsomuchasaremotecornerofitbutfallsunderoneoftwoheads;
　　thoseplacesworthseeingwhichhavealreadybeenseen，andthosethathavenotbeenseenbutarenotworthseeing。WakuraOnsenstruckmeasfallingintothelatterhalvesofbothcategories。
　　WhilediscussingmysolitarydinnerIwasinformedbyYejirothatsomeonewishedtospeakwithme，andonadmittingtobeathome，thelocalprefectwasusheredin。Hecameostensiblytovisemypassport，adutyusuallyquitesatisfactorilyperformedbyanypoliceman。Theexcusewastransparent。Hereallycamethathemightseeforhimselftheforeignerwhomrumorhadreportedtohavearrived。AsapassportonhisparthepresentedmewithsomepridethebitofautobiographythathehadhimselfoncebeeninTokyo;
　　afactwhichinhismindinstantlymadeusakindofbrothers，andraisedusbothintoacommonregionofsuperioritytooursurroundings。Heaskedaffectionatelyaftertheplace，andI
　　answeredasifithadbeentheonethoughtinbothourhearts。
　　Itwasapleasinglittlecomedy，aseachofuswasconsciousofitsconsciousnessbytheother。Altogetherwewereveryfriendly。
　　BetweentwosuchTokyoitesitwas，ofcourse，themerestformalitytoviseapassport，butbeingoneimposedbylawhekindlyranhiseyeovermine。Asitomittedtodescribemypersonalappearanceintheusualcarefullyminutemanner，asfaceoval，noseordinary，complexionmedium，andsoforth，identificationfrommerelookswasnotstriking。SohehadtotakemeontrustforwhatIpurportedtobe，anassumptionwhichdidnotdisconcerthimintheleast。Withwritingmaterialswhichhedrewfromhissleeve，heregisteredmethenandthere，and，thedemandsofthelawthuscompliedwithtotheletter，leftmeamidrenewedcivilitiestosleepthesleepofthejust。
　　X。
　　AnInlandSea。
　　TheyhadtoldusovernightthatasmallsteamerpliedeveryotherdaythroughNoto’sunfamedinlandsea，leavingthecapitalearlyinthemorning，andtouchingshortlyafteratWakura。Asgoodluckwouldhaveit，themorrowhappenednottobeanyotherday，soweembracedtheopportunitytoembarkinherourselves。Onher，itwouldbemoreaccuratetosay，forsheprovedsuchamitethathercabinwasbarelypossibleandanythingbutdesirable。BysquattingdownandcraningmyneckIpeeredinattheentrance，afeatwhichwasdifficultenough。Shewas，intruth，notmuchbiggerthanaship’sgig;butshehadasouloutofallproportiontohersize。Thewayitthrobbedandstrainedandsetherwholelittleframequiveringwithexcitement，mademethinkeverymomentthatshewasabouttoexplode。
　　ThefactthatshewasmannedexclusivelybyJapanesedidnotentirelyreassureme。
　　Therewasanapologyforadeckforward，towhich，whenwewerewellunderway，Iclamberedovertheotherpassengers。IwasjustsittingdowntheretoenjoyacomfortablepipewhenIwasstartlinglyrequestedbyavoicefromacaboosebehindtomoveoff，asIwasobscuringtheviewofthemanatthewheel。AfterthatIperchedonthegunwale。
　　Westeamedmerrilyoutintothemiddleofthebay。Thewaterwasslumberouslysmooth，andunderthetawnyhazeofthemorningitshonewiththesheenofburnishedbrass。Fromthegentleplowingofourbowitrolledlazilytooneside，asifintruthitweremoltenmetal。
　　Land，atvaryingpicturesquedistances，layonallsidesofus。
　　Insomedirectionstheshorewasnotmorethanamileandahalfoff;
　　inothers，theeyewandereddownavistaofwaterframedbylowheadlandsfortenmilesormore。Buttheatmospheregavethedominantthought，astrangeslumber-likeseclusion。Sorichandgolden，itshutthislittlecorneroftheworldinasortofhappyvalleyofitsown，andthesmokefrommypipedrifteddreamilyastern，anaturalincensetothespiritsofthespot。
　　Thepassengerssuggestedanything，fromapublicpicnictoanearlyexplorationparty。Thereweremen，womenandchildrenofallagesandkinds，somestowedawayinthecabinbehind，somegatheredingroupsamidships;andthoseinthecabinthoughtsmallfryofthoseondeck。Thecabinwasconsideredtheplaceofhonorbecausethecompanymadeonepayahigherpricefortheprivilegeofitsdiscomfort。Altogetheritwasaveryprettyepitomeofavoyage。
　　Justasthesteamerpeoplewerepreparingfortheirfirstlanding，theredetacheditselffromthebackgroundoftreesalongtheshorethemostsingularaquaticstructureIthinkIhaveeverseen。
　　Itlookedliketheskeletonofsomeantediluvianwigwamwhichaprehistoricrochadsubsequentlychosenforanest。Fourpolesplantedinthewaterinclinedtooneanotheratsuchananglethattheycrossedthree-quartersofthewayup。Theprojectingquartersheldinclutchalargewickerbasketlikethecarofaballoon。
　　Peeringabovethecarwasaman’shead。Astheoccupantbelowslowlyturnedtheheadtokeepaneyeonus，itsuggested，amiditswebofpoles，somemammothspiderlyinginwaitforitsprey。
　　Itwasamatterofsomewonderatfirsthowthemangotthere，untilthemotionofthesteamerturnedthesideanddisclosedasetofcrosspoleslashedbetweentwooftheuprights，formingarudesortofladder。Curiosity，satisfiedonthisprimarypoint，nextaskedwhyhegotthere。Asthiswasariddletome，IpropoundedittoYejiro，whoonlyshookhisheadandpropoundedittosomebodyelse;
　　acomplimenttotheinquirycertainly，ifnottomychoiceofinformant。
　　Thissomebodyelsetoldhimthemanwasfishing。Exceptfortheimmobilityofthefigure，Ineversawamanlooklesslikeitinmylife。
　　Such，however，wasthefact。Thewigwamwasconnectedbystringstotheentranceofasortofweir，andthemanwhocrouchedinthebasketwasonthelookoutforlargefish，ofakindcalledbora。Assoonasoneofthemstrayedintothemouthofthenet，themanpulledthestringwhichclosedtheopening。Theheightofhisobservatoryabovethelevelofthewaterenabledhimtoseethroughittothenecessarydepth。Iamatriflehazyovertheexactdetailsoftheapparatus，asIneversawafishinquisitiveenoughtogoin;butIsubmittheexistenceofthefishermeninproofthatitworks。
　　Havingdepositedsuchwightsaswishedtogoashore——fortheplacewasofnopretension——oursteamfishoncemoreturneditstailanddartedusthroughsomenarrowsintoanotherbay。Itmusthavebeenafavoriteonewithbora，asitsshoresweredottedwithfish-lookouts。
　　Theobservatoriesstoodafewstone-throwsoutindeepishwater，atpresumablyfavorablepoints，andneververynearoneanother，lesttheyshouldinterferewithapossiblecatch。Somewereinhabited，somenot。
　　ThisbaywasfurtherremarkableforasolarhalowhichIchancedtoseeonglancingupatthesun。Isupposeitwasthesingularqualityofthelightthatfirstcausedmetolookoverhead。Forathinveilofcloudhaddrawnovertheblueandtemperedthesunshinepeculiarly。
　　Ofcourseoneisfamiliarwithcaricaturesofthethinginmeteorologicalbooks;butthephenomenonitselfisnotsocommon，andtheeffectwasuncanny。AtthefirstglanceitseemedabitofNotowitchery，thatstrangelyluminouscirclearoundthesun。
　　Toadmirethemoonthusbonneted，astheJapanesesay，iscommonenough，andbefitsthehour。Buttohavethehaloofthenighthungaloftinbroaddayistocrownsobernoonwithenchantment。
　　Thesheetofwaterwassparselydottedwithsail。OnelittlecraftinparticularIremember，whosecourseboreherstraightdownuponus。
　　Shedilatedslowlyoutofthedistance，andthenpassedsocloseI
　　mighthavetossedafloweraboardofher。Sosteadyhermotionsheseemedoblivioustoourpresence，assheglideddemurelybyatrelativelydoubledspeed。
　　Onlyafterwehadpasseddidsheshowsignsofnoticingusatall。
　　For，meetingourwake，thecoquette，shesuddenlybegandroppinguscurtseysingood-by。
　　XI。
　　Anamidzu。
　　Weseemedboundthatdaytomeetfreaksinfishing-tackle。Thenextonetoturnupwasakindofcrinoline。ThisstrangethingconfrontedusaswedisembarkedatAnamidzu。Anamidzuwasthelastportintheinlandsea。AftertouchingherethesteamerpassedoutintotheseaofJapanandtiedupforthenightatasmallportontheeasternsideofthenoseofthepeninsula。
　　Asthetownlayawayfromtheshoreupwhatlookedlikeacanal，weweretransferredtoasmallboattoberowedin。Justaswereachedthebeginningsofthecanalwesawsquattingonthebankanoldcronecontemplating，itseemed，theforlornremainsofahoopskirtwhichdangledfromapolebeforeher，halfinandhalfoutofwater。Thechiefdifferencebetweenthisandthemorecommonarticleofcommercewasmerelyoneofdegree，sinceheretheribsbyquitemeetingatthetopentirelysuppressedthewaist。Theirlowerextremitieswerehidinthewaterandwere，Iwasinformed，baitedwithhooks。
　　Theoldlady’sattitudewasoneofinimitableapathy;nordidshesomuchasblinkatus，aswepassed。Alittlefartherup，ontheoppositebank，satasimilarbitofstilllife。Athirdbeyondcompletedthepicture。Thesegooddamesborderedthebrinklikesomanymeditativefrogs。ThoughIsawthemforthefirsttimeintheflesh，Irecognizedthematonce。HereweretheidenticalfisherfolkwhohavesatforcenturiesinthepaintingsofTsunenobu，notawhitmoreimmovableinkakemonothaninreallife。Ialmostlookedtofindthemaster’ssealsomewhereinthecornerofthelandscape。
　　Theworthysoulswere，Iwastold，inkyos;asocial，orratherunsocialstate，whichintheircasemayberenderedunwidoweddowagers;since，incompanywiththeirhusbands，theyhadrenouncedalltheirsocialtitlesandestates。Theirdaughters-in-lawnowdidthedomesticdrudgery，whiletheydevotedtheirdaysthustosport。
　　Whetheritwerethedames，orthecanal，ormorelikelystill，sometouchofatmosphere，butIwasremindedofHolland。Indeed，Iknownotwhatthespecialoccasionwas。Itisastrangefabricwearesobusyweavingoutofsensations。Letsomethingaccidentallypickupanoldthread，andbehold，withoutrhymeorreason，wearetreatedtoawholepieceofpastexperience。Strangeryetwhenbutthebackgroundisbroughtback。Forwewereunconsciousofthewarpwhilethedetailswereweavingin。Yetreproduceitandallthewoofstartssuddenlytosight。Foratmosphere，likeaperfume，doesghostlyservicetothepast。
　　ThereissomethinglessmediateinmyremembranceofAnamidzu。Theplacehastomeamemoryofitsownthathangsabouttheroomtheymademineforanhour。Itwascertainlyaprettyroom;surprisinglyso，forsuchanout-of-the-wayspot。Idaresayitwasonlythattomyfellow-voyagerofthesteamer，hurryinghomewardtoWakamatsu。
　　Icouldhearhiminthenextapartmentmakingmerryoverhismiddaymeal。Tohimtheplacestoodforthelaststageonthejourneyhome。
　　Buttome，itmeantmore。Itmarkedboththeendofthebeginning，andthebeginningoftheend。ForIhadfixeduponthisspotformyturningpoint。
　　Itwashighnooninmydayoftravel，likethehighnoonthereoutsidetheopenshoji。Thesiestaofsensationhadcome。Thusfar，thecomingeventshadcasttheirshadowsbeforeandIhadfollowed;
　　nowtheyhadtouchedtheirzenithhereinmid-Noto。HenceforthI
　　shouldseethemmovingbackagaintowardtheeast。Thedazzlingsunshinewithoutpointedtheshadewithin，makingeventheroomseemmoreshadowythanitwas。Ibegantofeelcreepingovermethatstrangetouchofsadnessthatattendsthesuprememomentofsuccess，thoughfulfillmentbesotriflingathingasajourney’sbourne。
　　Greatorlittle，realorfancied，thefeelingisthesameinkind。
　　Themindseemsstrangelyliketheeye。Satisfysomeemotionithasbeendwellingon，andtherelaxednervesatoncemakeyouconsciousofthecomplementarytint。
　　ThenotherinnsinJapancameupregretfullyacrossthebluedistanceoftheinterveningyears，middayhalts，whereanhourofdaydreamlaysandwichedinbetweentwohalfdaysoftramp。AndIthoughtofthecompanionsnowsofaraway。Havingheardthetuneinaminorkey，thesecameinaschordsofsomeamplervariation，makingakindofsymphonyofsentiment，whereIwasbroughtbackeverandanontothesimplemotif。Andtheteahousemaidensenteredandwentoutagainlikemutesinmymind’sscene。
　　Idoubtnotthecountrybeyondisallverycommonplace，butitmightbeanEldoradofromthegildingfancygaveitthen。Iwastoldthehillswerenothigh，andthateighteenmilesonfootwouldlandthetraveleratWakamatsuontheseaofJapan，frontingKorea，butseeingonlythesea，andIfeeltolerablysurethereisnothingtheretorepaythetramp。Whenabackhasbewitchedyouinthestreet，itisafatalfollytotrytoseetheface。Youwillonlybedisillusionedifyoudo。
　　XII。
　　AtSeaAgain。
　　Iwasrousedfrommymid-Notoreveriebytidingsthatourboatwasreadyandwaitingjustbelowthebridge。Thiswasnotthesteamerwhichhadlongsincegoneonitsway，butasmallboatofthecountrywehadsucceededincharteringforthereturnvoyage。Thegoodinn-folk，whohadhelpedinthehiring，hospitablycamedowntothelandingtoseeusoff。
　　Theboat，likeallJapanesesmallboats，wasinbuildbetweenagondolaandadory，anddatedfromastageintheartofrowingpriortothediscoverythattositisbetterthantostandevenatwork。
　　Ourswasasmallspecimenofitsclass，thatwemightthequickercompassthevoyagetoNanao，whichtheboatmenaverredtobesixri（fifteenmiles）。Myestimate，promptedperhapsbyinterest，andcertainlyabettedbyignorance，madeitabouthalfthatdistance。
　　Myargument，conclusiveenoughtomyself，provedsingularlyunshakingtotheboatmen，whowouldneitherabatethepriceinconsequencenordiminishtheirownallowanceofthetimetobetaken。
　　Theboathadsweepsbothforeandaft，eachletinbyaholeinthehandletoapinonthegunwale。Shewasalsoprovidedwithasailhoistingonasparthatfittedinamidships。Thesailwaslacedvertically：apoint，bytheway，fortellingaJapanesejunkfromaChineseoneatsea，forCathayalwayslaceshorizontally。
　　Whateverourprivatebeliefsontheprobablelengthofthevoyage，bothcrewandpassengersagreedcharminglyinonehope，namely，thattheremightbeaslittlerowingaboutitaspossible。Ourreasonsforthisdiffered，itistrue;butasneithersidevolunteeredtheirs，thedifferencematterednot。Soweslippeddownthecanal。
　　Thehoopskirtfisher-dameswerejustwherewehadleftthemsomehoursbefore，andwerestilltoomuchabsorbedindoingnothingtowastetimelookingatus。Iwouldgladlyhavebotheredthemforapeepattheirtraps，butthatitseemedapitytointrudeuponsoengrossingapursuit。Besides，Ifearedtheirapathymightinfectthecrew。Ourmariners，thoughhiredonlyforthevoyage，didnotseemaversetomakingadayofit，asitwas。
　　Onething，however，Iwasbentonstoppingtoinspect，costwhatitmightindelayordiscipline;andthatwasafish-lookout。Tohaveseenthethingfromasteamer’sdeckmerelywhetteddesireforneareracquaintance。Togratifythewishwasnotdifficult;fortheshorewasdottedwiththemlikeblindlight-housesoffthepoints。Iwasformakingforthefirstvisible，buttheboatmen，withaneyetoeconomyoflabor，pointedoutthattherewasonedirectlyinourpathroundthenextheadland。SoIcurbedmycuriositytillonturningthecorneritcameintoview。Asgoodluckwouldhaveit，itwasinhabited。