Forsomeminutespastastrange，far-awaymusicalnote，likethemurmurofrunningwater，hadstruckmyear，andyetallabouteverythinglookeddead。Ofanimateoreveninanimatepulsationtherewasnosign。OneunbrokensheetofsnowstretchedasfarasIcouldsee，inwhichstoodthegreattreeslikemummies。Stillthesoundcontinued，seemingtocomefromundermyfeet。Istopped，and，kneelingdown，putmyeartothecrust，andthere，asdistinctaspossible，Iheardthewimplingofababybrook，crooningtoitselfunderitsthickwhiteblanket。Herethenwasthecradleofoneofthosestreamsthatlaterwouldbecomesuchanuglycustomertomeet。
　　Itwasbabilyinnocentnow，andtheonelivingthingbesidemyselfonthisMaydayinthegreatsnow-sheetedsolitude。
　　Perhapsitwasthebrookthathadunderminedthesnow。Atallevents，soonafterIovertooktheothers，theguide，fearingtotrusttoitfarther，suddenlystruckupagaintotheleft。Weallfollowed，remonstrating。Wehadnosoonergotupthanwewentdownagaintheotherside，andthispicket-fencestyleofprogresscontinuedtillweemergeduponthetopofacertainspur，whichcommandedafineviewofgorges。Unfortunatelyweourselveswereontopofsomeofthem。
　　Theguidereconnoiteredbothsidesforadescent，pushinghiswaythroughathickgrowthofdwarfbamboo，andbroughtupeachtimeontheedgeofanimpassablefalltothestreambelow。Atlasthetooktothearete。Itwasmaskedbytreesforsomedistance，andthencameoutasabareknifeedgeofrockandearth。Downitwescrambled，tilltheslopetothesidebecamepassable。Thiswasnowmuchlesssteep，althoughstillsteepenoughfortheguidetomakemehaltbehindatree，forfearofthestonesdislodgedbythosebehind。
　　Thesecamedownpastuslikecannon-balls，ricochettingbybigbounds。
　　Atthebottomwereachedthestream，andbesideitwehaltedforlunch。Justbelowourrestingplaceanotherstreamjoinedourown，bothcomingdownforbidding-lookingvalleys，shutinbysavagepeaks。
　　Onthedelta，betweenthewaters，wemadeoutabandofhunters，threeofthem，tarryingafteranunsuccessfulchase。Thislastwasageneralinference，ratherthananobservedfact。
　　Thespotwasidealforpicturesquepurposes，——thewaterclearascrystal，andthesunshinesparkling。Butotherwisematterswentillwithus。Ourextemporeguidehadpromisedus，overhisownfiretheeveningbefore，asingledayofittoArimine。Ontheroadhisestimateofthetimeneededhadincreasedalarmingly。Fromdirectquestioningitnowappearedthatheintendedtocampoutonthemountainopposite，whosesnowyslopeswerepainfullypropheticofwhatthatnightwouldbe。Besides，thismeantanotherdayofittoArimine;andevenwhenwereachedArimine，wewerenowhere，andIwasscantoftime。Wehadalreadylostthreedays;ifwekepton，I
　　foresawthelossofmore。Itwasverydishearteningtoturnback，butithadtobedone。
　　OurobjectnowwastostriketheAshikuratrailandfollowitdown。
　　Theguide，however，wasnotsureofthepath，sowehailedthehunters。Oneofthemcameacrossthedeltatotheedgeofthestreamwithinshoutingdistance，andfromhimweobtainedknowledgeoftheway。
　　Atfirstthepathwasunadventurousenough，thoughdistressinglyrough。Intruth，itwasnopathatall;itwasanabstractdirection。Itledstraighton，regardlessoffooting，andwefollowed，nowwadingthroughswamps，nowstumblingoverroots，nowduckingfromwhip-liketwigsthatcutusacrosstheface，untilatlastweemergedabovethestream，anduponasceneasgrandlydesolateasthemostmorbidmisanthropemightwish。Amassofbouldersofallsizes，fromabarntoacobblestone，completelyfilledachasmatthebaseofasemicircularwallofcastellatedclaycliffs。Intothepitwedescended。Thepinnaclesabovewereimpressivelyhigh，andbetweenthemwerecouloirsofdebristhatlookedtoustobeasperpendicularasthecliffs。Uponeofthesebreakneckslidestheguidepointedforourpath。Portersandall，wedemurred。Path，ofcourse，therewasnone;therewasnotevenanapologyforasuspicionthatanyonehadeverbeenupordowntheplace。Wefeltsuretheremustbesomeotherwayout。Themorewesearched，however，thelesswefound。Thestream，whichwasanimpassabletorrent，barredexitbelowonoursidebyrunningstraightintothewallofrock。Theslidewasanuglyclimbtocontemplate，yetwelookedatitsometimebeforeweacceptedtheinevitable。
　　Whenindesperationwefinallymadeupourminds，webeganpickingourdubiouswayupamongamassofrocksthatthreatenedtobecomeastoneavalancheatanymoment。Noneofuslikedit，butnoneofusknewhowlittletheotherslikedittillthatevening。Intheexpansionofsuccessweadmittedourpastfeelings。Onepoorportersaidhethoughthislasthourhadcome，andmostofusbelievedanearfuturewithoutusnotimprobable。Itshowshowdangerunlockstheheartthatjustbecause，halfwayup，Ihadrelievedthismanofhisstick，whichfromahelphadbecomeahindrance，hefelttowardmeanexaggeratedgratitude。Itwasnothingformetodo，forIwasfree，whilehehadhisload，buthadIreallysavedhislifehecouldnothavebeenmorebeholden。Indeed，itwasatimetointensifyemotion。
　　Aswescrambledupwardonallfours，theascent，fromfamiliarity，grewlessformidable。Atleastthestonesdecreasedinsize，althoughtheirtiltremainedthesame，buttheanglelookedlesssteepfromabovethanfrombelow。
　　Atlast，oneaftertheother，wereachedaplacetothesideoftheneckofthecouloir，andscramblingroundthecopingofturfatthetopemerged，tooursurprise，uponapath，orratherupontheghostofone。Forwefoundourselvesuponanarrowridgeofsoilbetweentwochasms，endinginapinnacleofclay，andalongthisribbonoflandranapath，perfectlypreservedforperhapsascoreofpacesout，whenitbrokeoffbodilyinmid-air。Theuntowardlookofthewaywehadcomestoodexplained。Hereclearlyhadbeenacataclysmwithinitinerarytimes。Somegiganticlandslidemusthaveslicedthemountainoffintothegorgebelow，andinsteadofapathwehadbeenfollowingitsstillunlaidphantom。Thenew-borncharacterofthechasmexplaineditsshockingnakedness。Butitwasanuncomfortablesighttoseeapathinallitsentiretyvanishsuddenlyintothevoid。
　　Theuncutendoftheformertrailledbacktoalittletablelandsupportingapatchoftillingandtenantedbyanuninhabitedhut。
　　TheWillowMoortheycalledit，thoughitseemedhardlybigenoughtobearaname。Onreconnoitringforthedescent，wefoundthefarthersidefallenawaylikethefirst;sothattheplateauwasnowcutofffromalldecentapproach。Oneofus，atlast，struckthebuttendofapath;butwehadnotgonefardownitbeforeitbrokeoff，anddeliveredustothegullies。Thisside，however，wasmuchbetterthantheother，andittooknoneofusverylongtoslipdowntheslope，repairthebridge，andjointheAshikuratrail。
　　Wewerenowoncemoreonthepathwehadcomeup，withthecertaintyofbadplacesinsteadoftheiruncertaintyaheadofus，adoubtfulbetterment。TheOnigaJolayinwaitroundthecorner，andtherestofthefamiliardevilswouldallappearinduecourseoftime。
　　Tiedovermybootswerethestrawsandalsofthecountry。Theywerenotmadetobewornthus，andshowedgreatuneasinessintheirnewposition，dowhatwemightwiththethongs。Everybodytriedhishandatit，firstandlast;butthefidgetythingsalwaysendedbycomingoffatthetoeortheheel，orsluingroundtothesidetilltheywereworsethanuseless。Theyweresupposedtopreventonefromslipping，whichnodoubttheywouldhavedonehadtheynotbegunbyslippingoffthemselves。Theyworethemselvesoutbytheirnervousness，andhadtoberenewedeverylittlewhilefromthestocktheporterscarried。InhonoroftheOnigaJoIhadafreshpairputonbesidethebrooksacredtothememoryofmypocket-handkerchief。WethenrosetotheDevilPlace，andthreadeditinsinglefile。Whetheritwerethecompanionship，orfamiliarity，orsimplythatmyrightsideinsteadofmyleftnextthecliffgavegreaterseemingsecurity，I
　　gotoveritashademorecomfortablythistime，thoughitwasstillfarfrommyidealofanafternoon’swalk。Theroadtothenextworldbranchedofftoodisturbinglytotheleft。
　　Atlastthepathdescendedtotheriverbottomforgood。Isatdownonastone，pulledoutmytobaccopouch，andlitapipe。Theporterspassedonoutofsight。ThenItrudgedalongmyself。Thetensionofthelasttwodayshadsuddenlyceased，andintheexpansionofspiritthatensuedIwasconsciousofavoid。Iwantedsomeonewithmethen，perhaps，morethanIevercravedcompanionshipbefore。Thegreatgorgeaboutmelayfilledtothebrimwithpurpleshadow。Idrankinthecoolshade-scentedairateverybreath。Theforest-coveredmountainsides，patchedhigherupwithsnowinthegullies，shutouttheworld。Onlyagildedbithereandthereonsomeloftyspurlingeredtohintasunbeyond。Thestripofpaleblueskyfaroverheadbowedtomeetthevistaofthevalleybehind，avistaofpeaksmoreandmoresnow-clad，tilltheviewwasblockedatlastbyawhite，nun-veiledsummit，flushednow，inthelateafternoonlight，toatenderrose。Paststrainhadleftthespirit，aspastfatigueleavesthebody，exquisitelyconscious;andmyfancycameandwalkedwithmethereinthatlonelyvalley，asitgaveitselfsilentlyintothearmsofnight。
　　ProbablynoneIknowwillevertreadwhereIwastreadingthen，norI
　　everbeagaininthatstrangewildcleft，sofaroutoftheworld;
　　andyet，ifyearshenceIshouldchancetowandertherealoneoncemore，IknowtheghostofthatromancewillrisetomeetmeasIpass。
　　IownImadenohastetoovertakethecaravan。
　　DarknessfelluponuswhilewewereyetalongwayfromAshikura，withanuncertaincliffpathbetweenusandit：forthepath，likeatruemountaintrail，hadthepassionforclimbingdevelopedintoamania，andcouldneverrestcontentwiththeriver’sbedwheneveritspiedachancetorise。Ithadjustmanagedanascentupazigzagstairwayofitsowninvention，andhadsteppedoutinthedarkuponapatchoftallmountaingrass，asdryasstraw，whenYejiroconceivedthebrilliantideaoftorches。HehadlearnedthetrickintheHakonehills，whereitwasthehabit，hetoldtheguide，whencaughtoutatnight;andheproceededtorollsomeofthegrassintolongwispsforthepurpose。Thetorcheswereremarkablypicturesque，anddidusservicebeside。Theirruddyflare，bowingtothebreeze，butonlyburningthemoremadlyforitsthwarting，lightedthepathlikenoondaythroughacircleoffifteenfeet，anddroppedbrands，stillflaring，intothestubble，whichwefeltitacaseofconsciencetostopandstampout。Thecircle，smallasitwas，sufficedtodiscloseayawninggulfontheside，towhichthepathclungwiththepersistencyofinfatuation。
　　Thefirstthingtotellusofapproachtohumanhabitationwasthecroakingofthefrogs。AfterthewildnessofourdayitsoundedlikesomelullabyofMotherEarth，speakingofhearthandhome，andweknewthatwewerecomebacktoricefieldsandman。Itwasanotherhalfhour，however，beforeourprocessionreachedtheoutskirtsofthevillage。Herewethrewasideourtorches，andinaweary，drawn-outfilefoundourway，onebyone，intothecourtyardoftheinn。Itwasnotaninntheyearround;itbecamesuchonlyatcertainseasons，ofwhichthepresentwasnotone。IthadthehabitofputtinguppilgrimsontheirwaytotheDragonPeak;betweenthetimesofitspiousofficesitrelapsedintoasimplefarmhouse。
　　Buttheownerreceivedusnonethelesskindlyforourinopportuneappearance，andhastedtobringthewater-tubsforourfeet。NeverwasImorewillingtositonthesillamomentanddabblemytoes;
　　forIwasfootsoreandweary，andgladtobeonman’slevelagain。
　　Ipromiseyou，wewereallveryhumanthatevening，andfeltadealaloud。
　　XVIII。
　　AGenialInkyo。
　　Theownerofthefarmhousehadinheriteditfromhisfather。Therewasnothingveryoddaboutthiseventoourother-worldnotionsofproperty，exceptthatthefatherwasstillliving，ashaleandheartyasyouplease，inalittledenatthefootofthegarden。Hewas，inshort，whatisknownasaninkyo，orone"dwellinginretirement，"——asingularstate，composedofequalpartsofthisworldandthenext;
　　likedyingintheory，andthenundertakingtoliveoninpractice。
　　Foraninkyoisamanwhohasformallyhandedinhisresignationtothecommunity，andyetcontinuestoexistmostenjoyablyinthemidstofit。Hehasabdicatedinfavorofhiseldestson，and，havingputoffallresponsibilities，isfiliallysupportedinalifeofeaseandpleasure。
　　Inspiteofbeingnolongerinsociety，thefatherwasgreedilysocial。
　　Assoonasheheardaforeignerhadarrived，hetrottedovertocall，andnothingwoulddobutImustvisithisnicheearlyinthemorning，beforegoingaway。
　　Afterbreakfast，therefore，thesondulycametofetchme，andwestartedoffthroughthegarden。Forhissire’splaceofretirementlayawayfromtheroad，towardtheriver，thatthedearoldgentlemanmightcommandaviewofthepeaksopposite，ofoneofwhich，calledtheEtchiuFuji，fromitsconicalform，hewasdotinglyfond。
　　Itwasanexpeditiongettingthere。Thisarose，notfromanyspecialfaultinthepath，whichforthefirsthalfofthewayconsistedofastringofstepping-stonesneatlylaidintheground，andforthelatterfractionofnoworsemudthancouldeasilybemetwithelsewhere。Thetroublecamefromamisunderstandinginfoot-gear。
　　Itseemedtooshortawalktoputone’sbootstwiceonandoffforthedoingofit。Ontheotherhand，towalkinstocking-feetwasoutofthequestion，forthemud。SoIattemptedacompromise，consistingofmysocksandthenativewoodenclogs，andtriedtomaketheonetakekindlytotheother。Butmymittenlikesockswouldhavenoneofmythongs，and，failingofagripformytoes，compelledmetoscufflealonginaveryundignifiedway。Theneveryfewstepsoneortheotheroftheclogssawfittostaybehind，andIhadtohalttorecoverthedelinquent。ImadeasorryspectacleasIscrewedaboutontheremainingshoe，gropingafteritsfellow。OnceIwascaughtintheactbymycicerone，whoturnedroundinopportunelytoseewhyIwasnotfollowing;andtwiceinattemptingthefeatIallbutlostmybalanceintothemud。
　　Theworthyvirtuoso，ashewas，metusatthedoor，andescortedusupstairstoseehistreasures。Theroomwastapestriedwithallmannerofworksofart，ofwhichhewasjustlyproud，whilethehouseitselfstoodcopiedfromaChinesemodel，forhewasveryclassic。
　　ButIwaspleasedtofindthataboveallhisheartwasgiventotheview。Itwasshared，asIalsodiscovered，bythetea-ceremonies，inwhichhewasaproficient;suchamixtureisman。ButIbelievetheviewtohavebeenthedeeperaffection。WhileIwasadmiringit，hefetchedfromacupboardaverysuspicious-lookingbottleofwhatturnedouttobehoney，andpressedaglassofituponme。Idulysippedthisnotinappropriateliquor，sincecordialssavorofasceticism，andthisonebeingofnaturaldecoctionpeculiarlybefittedasecularanchorite。ThenItookmyleaveofonewho，thoughnolongerintheworld，wasstillsocharminglyofit。
　　Thegoodsoulchancedtobeawidower，butsuchbereavementisnonecessarypreliminarytobecominga"dwellerinretirement。"
　　Sometimesamanenterstheinkyostatewhilehestillhaswithhimthehelpmateofhisyouth，andthetwogotogethertothisaftermathoflife。Surelyaprettyreturn，this，ofthehoneymoon！DarbyandJoanstartingoncemorehandinhand，aloneinthisIndiansummeroftheirlove，astheydidyearsagoinitsspring-tide，beforeothergenerationsoftheirownhadpushedthemontolessromanticparts;
　　Darbycomebackfrompaternalcarestobeoncemorethelover，andJoanfrommotherandgrandamagainbecomehisgirl。
　　Wepartedfromourwatchman-guideandhalfourporterswithmuchfeeling，asdidtheyfromus。Asfriendshipsgowehadnotknownoneanotherlong，butintimacyisnotmeasuredbytime。Circumstanceshadthrownusintooneanother’sarms，and，aswebadegood-byfirsttooneandthentoanother，weseemedtobeseveringatiethattouchedveryneartheheart。
　　Twooftheporterscameonwithus，asmuchforloveasformoney，asfarasKamiichi，whereweweretogetkuruma。Alongtrampwehadofitacrossleaguesofricefields，andforapartofthewaybesidealarge，deepcanal，finelyboweredintrees，andflowingwithaswift，darkcurrentlikesomehugeboawindingstealthilyunderthebamboo。
　　ItwasthearterytoIknownothowmanysquaremilesoffield。
　　Wecameinforasteadydrizzleafterthis，anditwaslongpastnoonbeforewetouchedournoontidehalt，andstalkedatlastintotheinn。
　　Withgreatdifficultywesecuredthreekuruma，——theplacestoodonthelimitsofsuchlocomotion，——andacrowdsodensecollectedaboutthemthatitblockedthewayout。Everybodyseemedsmittenwithadesiretoseethestrangers，whichgavetheinnservants，byvirtueoftheircalling，anenviabledistinctiontovillageeyes。Buttheportersstoodhighestinregard，bothbecauseoftheirmoreintimatetietousandbecauseweherepartedfromthem。Itwasseveringthefinallinktothenowhappypast。Weallfeltit，andtoldourrosaryofmemoriesinthought，Idoubtnot，eachtohimself，aswewentoutintotheworlduponourdifferentways。
　　EightmilesinarainbroughtustotheroadbywhichwehadenteredEtchiusomedaysbefore，andthatnightwesleptatMikkaichioncemore。Onthemorrowmorningtheweatherfaired，andtowardmiddaywewereagainfacingthefringeofbreakersfromthecliffs。
　　Themountainspurslookedthegrimmerthatwenowknewthemsowellbyrepulse。Theairwasclearerthanwhenwecame，andaswegazedoutovertheoceanwecouldseeforthefirsthalfdaythefaintcoastlineofNoto，stretchingtowarduslikeanarmalongthehorizon。
　　Wewatcheditatintervalsaslongasitwasrecognizable，andwhenatlastitvanishedbeyondevenimagination’spowertoconjureup，feltastrangepangofpersonalregret。Theseathatsnatchesawaysomanylandsatpartingseemsfitlyinhumantothedeed。
　　InthecourseofthesetwodaystwothingshappenedwhichpointedcuriouslytotheisolationofthispartofJapan。Thefirstwasthenearmeetingwithanotherforeigner，whichwouldseemtoimplypreciselythecontrary。ButtheunwontedexcitementintowhichtheeventthrewYejiroandmewasproofenoughofitsstrangeness。
　　ItwaswhileIwassippingtea，waitingforafreshrelayofkurumaatNamerigawa，thatYejirorushedintoannouncethatanotherforeignerwasrestingataninnalittlefurtheruptown。HehadarrivedshortlybeforefromtheEchigoside，reportsaid。Thepassingofroyaltyorevenacircuswouldhavebeentamenewsincomparison。
　　OfcourseIhastenedintomybootsandsalliedforth。Ididnotcallonhimformally，butIinspectedthefrontoftheinninwhichhewassaidtobe，withpeculiarexpectationofspirit，inspiteofmyaffectedunconcern。Hewas，Ibelieve，aGerman;buthenevertookshape。
　　Thesecondeventoccurredthenextevening，andwasevenmoresingular。
　　Likethedodoitchronicledsurvival。Itwasmanifestedinthepersonofapoliceman。
　　SometimeafterourarrivalattheinnYejiroreportedthatthepoliceofficerwishedtoseeme。Themanhadalreadyseentheimportantpartofme，thepassport，andIwasatalosstoimaginewhatmorehecouldwant。SoYejirowassentbacktoinvestigate。
　　Hereturnedshortlywithasadcaseofconcernforconsideration，andhehardlykepthisfaceashetoldit。Theconscientiousofficer，itseemed，wishedtosleepoutsidemyroomformyprotection。
　　Fromthepassporthefelthimselfresponsibleformysafety，andhadconcludedthattheleasthecoulddowouldbenottoleavemeforamoment。Iassuredhim，throughYejiro，thathisofferwasmostthoughtful，butunnecessary。Butwhatanout-of-the-worldcornerthethoughtimplied，andwhatafinefossilthegoodsoulmusthavebeen！
　　Herewassurvivalwithanemphasis！Themanhadsleptsoundlythroughtwentyyearsormoreofchange，andwasstillinthepre-foreigndaysofthefeudalages。
　　Thepricesofkuruma，too，werepleasinglybehindthetimes。Theywerebuttwo-fifthsofwhatweshouldhavehadtopayonthesoutherncoast。AsweadvancedtowardShinshiu，however，thepricesadvancedtoo。Indeed，theoneadvanceaccuratelymeasuredtheother。Weweregettingbackagainintotheworld，itwaspainfullyevident。Atlastfaresrosetosixcentsari。Beforetheycouldmounthigherwehadtakenrefugeinthetrain，andwerehurryingtowardZenkojibysteam。
　　OurobjectivepointwasnowthedescentoftheTenriugawarapids。
　　Itwasnottheshortestwayhome，butitwaspartofourprojecteditineraryandtookusthroughacountrytypicaloftheheartofJapan。Itbeganwithafinesuccessionofpasses。TheseIhadoncetakenonajourneyyearsbeforewithafriend，andaswestartednowupthefirstone，theSarugaBambanotoge，Itriedtomakethenewimpressionfittheoldremembrance。Butmanhadbeenatworkupontheplacewithout，andimaginationstillmoreuponitspicturewithin。Itwasanothertogeweclimbedinthelightofthatlatter-dayafternoon。Withthecompaniontheoldhadpassedaway。
　　Leavingtheotherstofollow，Istarteddownthezigzagsonthefartherside。Itwasalreadydusk，andthesteepnessoftheroadandthebrisknightairsentmeswingingdowntheturnswithsomethingoftheanchor-likeescapementofawatch。MidwayIpassedasolitarypedestrian，whowastrollingtohimselfdownthedescent;andwheninturnhepassedme，asIwaswaitingunderatreefortheotherstocatchup，heeyedmesuspiciously，asonewhosewanderingswerequestionable。Theywerecertainlyquestionabletomyself，forbythattimewewerecometohabitations，andeachfreshlightIsawI
　　tookforthevillagewhereweweretostopforthenight，inspiteofrepeateddisillusionings。
　　Overhead，thelargerstarscameoutandwinkedatme，andthen，asthefieldsofspacebecamemoreandmorelightedwithstar-points，thehearth-firestootherhomesofworlds，Ithoughthowlocal，afterall，isthegreatconeofshadowwemencallnight;foritisonlynature’snightcapforthenoddingearth，assheturnsherheadawayfromthesuntoliepillowedinspace。
　　Thenextdaywasnotablechieflyfortheup-and-downcharacterofthecountryevenforJapan;whichwasexcelledonlybytheunhesitatingacceptanceofitonthepartoftheroad，andthisinitsturnonlybythecrowdsthattraveledit。Itseemedthatthedesiretogoincreasedinverselyasthedifficultyingoing。Thewayfarersweremostsociablefolk，andforapeoplewithwhompersonalityisatadiscountsingularlygiventopersonalities。Notamanwhohadadecentchancebutaskedwhitherweweregoingandwhencewehadcome。
　　Tothefirsthalfofthecountry-sideweconfidedsomuchofourprivatehistory;tothesecondwecontentedourselvesinsaying，withelaboratecourtesy，"Thesameassixyearsago，"ananswerwhichsoundedpolite，andrenderedthesurprisedquestionerspeechlessforthetimewetooktopass。
　　Especiallythewomenaddedtothepicturesquenessofthelandscape。
　　Theirheadsdoneupingay-coloredkerchiefs，framingtheirroundandrosyfaces，theirkitslungovertheirshoulders，andtheirkimonotuckedinattheirwaists，theytrudgedalongonusefulpairsofanklesneatlycasedinlavendergaiters。Somefolloweddutifullybehindtheirhusbands;otherschattedalongincompanywiththeirkind，——memberstheselastofsomepilgrimassociation。
　　Therewerewayfarers，too，oflesshappymind。Foroverthelastpasstheauthoritieswerebuildinganewroad，andlonglinesofpink-coatedconvictsmarchedtoandfroatworkuponit，underthesurveillanceofthedark-bluepolice;andthesightmademethinkhowlittlethemomentarylivingcountsintheactuallife。Herewewere，twosetsofmen，doingforthetimeanidenticalthing，trudgingalongamountainpathinthefreshMayair;andyettotheonethedayseemedallsunshine，totheothernothingbutcloud。
　　XIX。
　　OurPassportandtheBasha。
　　Itwasboundtocome，andweknewit;itwasonlyaquestionoftime。
　　Butthenwehadbravedthelawsofarsowell，wehadalmostcometobelievethatweshouldescapealtogether。Imeanthefataldetectionbythepolicethatwewereviolatingmypassport。Thatdocumenthadalreadyoutrunthestatuteoflimitations，andleftmenobetterthananoutlaw。Forpracticalpurposesmycharacterwasgone，andbeingthusself-convictedImightbearrestedatanymoment！
　　Inconsequenceofpendingtreatynegotiationsthegovernmenthadbecomeparticularabouttheprivilegesitgranted。Oneofthefirstcounter-movestoforeigninsistenceonexterritorialitywastherestrictingofpassportstoafortnight’stime。Youmightlayoutanytouryouchose，andifgrantedbythegovernment，theprovincesdesignatedwouldallbedulyinscribedinyourpassport，butyouhadtocompassthemallinthefortnightorbepunished。Ofcoursethiscouldbeevaded，andaJapanesefriendintheforeignofficehadkindlypromisedtosendmeanextensionontelegraph。ButthedislikeofbeingtiedtotimesandplacesmademesinfullyprefertheriskofbeingmarchedbacktoTokyounderthechargeofapoliceman，afateIhadseenovertakeoneortwoothermalefactorscaughtatsomewhatdifferentcrimes，whomwehadcasuallymetontheroad。
　　TheHarinokitogewaslargelytoblameforthedelay，itistrue。
　　ButthenunluckilytheHarinokitogecouldnotbearrested，andIcould。
　　Thebespectacledauthoritieswhoexaminedmycredentialseverynighthadhithertowinkedatmyguilt，sothattheboltfelluponusfromaclearsky。Itisalmostquestionablewhetherithadarighttofallatthatmomentatall。Itwascertainlyacaseofofficiousofficialdom。Forwehadstoppedsimplytochangekuruma，andtheunwrittenruleoftheroadrunsthatsolongasthetravelerkeepsmovingheissafe。Tocatchhimnappingatnightistherecognizedcustom。
　　Besides，thepolicemighthavechosen，evenbyday，someotheropportunitytolightuponusthanintheverythickofourwrestlewiththeextortionatepricesoffreshkuruma。Itwasinconsiderateofthem，tosaytheleast;fortheattacknaturallythrewusintoacertaindisreputenotcalculatedtocheapenfares。Then，too，ourobvioushastehelpedfurnishcircumstantialevidenceofcrime。
　　Nevertheless，intheverymidstofthesedifficultnegotiationsatMatsumoto，evilfatepresenteditself，clothedasapoliceman，anddemandedourpapers。Luckilytheywerenotattheverybottomofthebaggage，butinYejiro’sbosom;forotherwiseoureffectswouldhavebecomeapublicshow，andcollectedanevengreatercrowdthanactuallygathered。Thearmofthelawtookthepassport，fellatonceontheindefensibledate，andpointeditouttous。Therewewere，caughtintheact。Wesankseveraldegreesinstantlyineverybody’sestimation。
　　HowweescapedisasecretoftheJapaneseforce;forescapewedid。
　　Weadmittedourmisfortunetothepoliceman，andexpressedourselvesasevenmoredesirousofgettingbacktoTokyothanhecouldbetohaveusthere。ButwepointedoutthatnowtheTenriugawawastoallintentsasshortawayasany，andfurthermorethatitwastheoneexpresslynominatedinthebond。Thepolicemanstoodperplexed。
　　Outofdoubtorcourtesy，orboth，hehesitatedforsomemoments，andthenreluctantlyhandedthepassportback。Westoodacquitted。
　　Indeedwewerenotonlysufferedtoproceed，andthatinourownway，butheactuallyacceleratedmattershimself，forheturnedtoagainstthekuruma，totheirinstantdiscomfiture。Indeed，thiswasquiteasitshouldbe，forhewasasanxioustoberidofusasweweretobequitofhim。
　　Ontheroadthekurumaprovedunruly。Theexposurewehadsustainedmayhavehelpedtothis，orthecoercionofthepolicemanmayhaveworkedrevolt。Theyjoggedalongmoreandmorereluctantly，till，atlast，theworstofthemrefusedtogoonatall。Aftersomequiteuselessaltercation，wemadewhatshiftwemightwiththeremainder，buthadnotgotfarwhenweheardthetootofafish-hornbehind，andthesoundgraduallyoverhauledus。Now，afish-hornonacountryroadinJapanmeansabasha，andabashameanstheembodimentoftheobjectionable。Itisavehicletobeavoided;bothexternallylikeafire-engine，andinternallylikeanambulanceorahearse。Indeed，sofarasitsvictimisconcerned，itusuallyendsbybecomingacrossbetweenthelattertwo。Itisamachineabsolutelydevoidofrecommendations。Ispeakfromexperience，forinamomentofadventureIoncetookpassageinone，someyearsago，andInevermeantodosoagain。Eventhesoundofitsfish-hornnowprovokesmetoevilthoughts。Butwewereinabadway，and，tomywonder，Ifoundmysentimentsperceptiblysoftening。Beforethethingcaughtupwithus，Ihadactuallyresolvedtotakeit。
　　Wemadesignalsofdistress，and，rathercontrarytomyexpectation，themachinestopped。Thedriverpulledup，andtheguard，ahalf-grownboy，whosatnexthimontheseatinfront，makingmelodyonthehorn，jumpeddown，astrangebundleofconsequenceandcourtesy，andhelpedusandourbelongingsin。Hethenswunghimselfintohisseat，asthebashasetoffagain，andfelltotootingvociferously。Wehadscarcegotsettledbeforethevehiclewasdashingalongatwhatseemed，toourlateperambulatorexperience，aperfectlybreakneckspeed。Thepaceandtheenthusiasmoftheboyinfectedus。YejiroandIfelltocongratulatingeachother，withsomefervor，onourchangeofconveyance，andeachtimewespoke，theboywhiskedroundinhisseatandcriedout，withaknowingwagofhishead，"Itellyou，it’sfast，abasha！He！"andthenassuddenlywhiskedbackagain，andfelltotootingwithrenewedvigor，likeonewhohadbeenmomentarilyderelictinduty。Theroadwasquitedeserted，sothatsomuchnoisewouldhaveseemedunnecessary。Theboythoughtotherwise。Meanwhile，wewerebeingfrightfullyjolted，andoccasionallyslungroundcornersinawaytomakeholdingonapainfullabor。
　　Isupposetheunwontedspeedmusthaveintoxicatedus。Thereisnothingelsethatwillaccountforourlossofhead。For，beforewewerewelloutofthemachine，wehadbegunnegotiationsforitsexclusivepossessiononthemorrow;andbythetimewewerefairlyinstalledintheinnatShiwojiri，thebargainstoodcomplete。
　　Inconsiderationofnoexorbitantsum，thevehicle，withallappertainingthereto，wastobetakenoffitsregularrouteandwander，likeanytramp，atoursweetwill，inquiteacontrarydirection。Theboywiththehornwasexpresslyincludedinthelease。Bythisarrangementwehopedtocompasstwodays’journeyinone，andreachbythemorrow’snightthepointwhereboatsaretakenforthedescentoftheTenriugawarapids。Weknewthedrivewouldbepainful，butwehadeverypromisethatitwouldbefast。
　　TheinnatShiwojiripossessedaforeigntableandchairs;abitoffurnishingfromwhichthefreshnessofsurpriseneverworeoff。Whatwasevenlesstobelookedfor，thesonofthehousewasproficientinEnglish，havingstudiedwithamissionaryinTokyo。Ihadsometalkwithhimlater，andlenthimanEnglishclassicwhichheshowedgreatdesiretosee。
　　Betimesthenextmorningthebashaappeared，bothdriverandguardgotupinafinedark-greenuniform，asprucenessitmuchtickledourvanitytomark。Withafeelingakintoprincelypridewesteppedin，thedrivercrackedhiswhip，and，amidthebowsoftheinnhousehold，wewentoffupthestreet。Barringthelossofanumbrella，whichhadhappenedsomewherebetweenthetimeweboardedthebashaontheyestereenandthehourofdeparturethatmorning，andanexhaustivebutvainhuntforthesame，firstinthevehicleandthenatthestables，nothingmarredtheserenityofourfirsthalfhour。Theskywasdreamy;adelicateblueseenthroughagoldengauze。IfancyitwassuchaskywithwhichDanaefellinlove。WeroseslowlyuptheShiwojiripass，whichanewroadenabledeventhebashatodoquitecomfortably;andthesouthernpeaksoftheHida-Shinshiurangerosetocorrespondacrossthevalley，thesnowlinedistinctlyvisible，thoughthenearerrangesdidtheirbesttocutitoff。Norikura，theSaddle，especially，showedafinebitofitstenthousandfeet，wrappedintheindistinctnessofthespringhaze。Theheavyairgavealookofslumbertothepeaks，asifthosesummits，wakedbeforetherestoftheworld，hadalreadygrowndrowsy。Wehadnotyetceasedgazingatthemwhenaturnoftheroadshutthemout。Ariseofafewfeet，adip，aturn，andthelakeofSuwalaybelowusontheotherside，flankedbyitsownmountains，throughagapinwhichshowedthejustperceptibleconeofFuji。
　　TheShiwojiritogeisnotahighpass，andyetitdoesdutyaspartofagreatdivide。Adropofwater，fallingontheShiwojiriside，ifitchancetomeetwithotherdropsbeforeitbesnatchedupagainintothesky，wandersintotheseaofJapan;whileitsfellow，comingtoearthnotayardaway，endsatlastinthePacificocean。Ourwaynowlaywiththelatter。FortheTenriugawa，orRiveroftheHeavenlyDragon，takesitsriseinthelakeofSuwa，abowlofwateracoupleofmilesormoreacross。Ittricklesoutinsignificantlyenoughatoneend;gathersstrengthforfiftymilesofflow，andthenforanotherhundredcutsitswaycleanacrossarangeofmountains。
　　Howitevergotthroughoriginally，andwhy，areinterestingmysteries。Itsgorgeisnowfromonetotwothousandfeetdeep，cleft，notthroughaplateau，butthroughtheaxisofamountainchain。Inmostplacesthereisnotayardtospare。
　　Wewerestilladoubtfuldayofffromwhereitiscustomarytotakeaboat。Wehadstartedsomewhatlate，stoppedforthelackofumbrella，andnowwerecommittedtoadigressionforlettersIexpectedatShimonosuwa。IneverordermyletterstomeetmeonthelineofmarchbutIbitterlyrepenthavingchosenthatspecialspot。
　　Thereisalwayssomeexcellentreasonwhyitturnsoutmostinconvenient。ButasyetIwashopeful，forIthoughtIknewthespeedofthebasha，andthedaywasstillyoung。
　　ThedayhadgrownolderandIwiserbythetimemyletterswereread，withtheirstrangeperfumefromoutre-mer，thehorsesharnessedafresh，andweunderwayoncemore，clatteringdownthemainstreetofthevillage。Itwasnotonlyinthevillagethatwemadeastir。
　　Abashaisequaltotheoccasionanywhere。Thewholecountrysidestoppedinitstrackstoturnandstareaswepassed，andatonepointwecameinforaperfectovation;forourpassageandthenoondayrecessofaschoolhappeningtocoincide，thechildren，atthatmomentletloose，instantlydashedafteruspell-mell，inamass，shouting。Oneortwoofthemweresoeagerinthechasethattheymindednotwheretheywent，and，trippingoverstonesorruts，fellheadlonginthemud。Therestpursueduspanting，eachaccordingtohislegs，andgaveoveratlastonlyforwantofwind。
　　Theguardwassupremelyhappy。Whattimetheupperhalfofhimwastootiredtotootthelowerhalfspentinhoppingoffhisseatandonagainuponimaginaryduty。Meanwhile，inspiteofenlivenmentsnotincludedinthebill，myolddislikewasslowlybutsurelycomingback。Ibegantobeuneasyonthescoreoftime。Thespeedwasnotwhathopeandthecompanyhadledmetoexpect。Iwentthroughsomeelaboraterule-of-threecalculationbetweenthedistance，thespeed，andthetime;and，asfarasIcouldmakeout，itbegantolookquestionablewhetherweshouldarrivethatnightatall。Ihadalreadyplayedthepartofgoadoutofprecaution;Inowhadtotaketoitingoodearnest，——futiley，toboot。Meanwhilemybodywasasuneasyasmymind。Inthefirstplace，theseatsfacedsideways，sothatweprogressedafterthefashionofcrabs。Secondly，thevehiclehardlymadeapologiesforsprings。Wewererattledaboutlikeparchedcorninahopper。
　　Whatablessedtrickofmemorythat，ofwinnowingthejoysoftravelfromitsdiscomforts，andlettingthelatterslipunconsciouslyaway！
　　Thedustandtheheatandthethousandpettyannoyancespasswiththefacttobeforgotten，whilethesnow-hoodedmountainsandthedeepblueskyandthesmilingfieldsstaywithus，apartofourselves。
　　ThatdriveseemsgoldenasIlookbackuponit;yethowsadlydiscomfortingitwasatthetime！
　　Towardafternoonarumorbecamecurrentthattheroadhadbeenwashedawayahead，andthatthebashawouldhavetostopsomemilesshortofwherewehadhopedtobethatnight。Thiswasdisheartening。
　　Forwithallitsshortcomingsthebashawasundeniablyfasterthanperambulators。Therumorgatheredsubstanceasweadvanced，untilinconsequenceweceasedtoadvanceatall。Atacertainvillage，calledMiyada，thebashadrewup，andwewereinformedthatitwasimpossibletoproceedfurther。
　　Therewasnothingforitbuttohirekuruma。Themenwerearascallylot，andmadegainofournecessity。Butwewerenotassorrytoleavethebashaaswemighthavebeen，andthereportsofimpassabilitysubstantiatedthemselvesbeforewehadgotamileout。
　　Infurtherconsolation，thekurumamenturnedoutwellontheroad，andbowledusalongrightmerrily。Theroadranalongtheskirtsofthemountainsontheright，whichfellinonelongsweeptotheriver，abreadthofplainunexpectedlygoredbystreams。Thecanonswerestartlinglyabrupt，andthedarknesswhichnowcameontooknothingfromtheeffect。Asuddenzigzagdowntoadepthofahundredfeet，acarefulhitchingoveradecrepitbridge，andazigzaguptheotherside，andwewereoffatagoodtrotagain。Thisdispatchonthepartofthemenbroughtusinmuch-improvedspiritsandinverygoodtimeintoIijima，ourhoped-forgoal。
　　XX。
　　DowntheTenriugawa。
　　Wehadmadearrangementsovernightforaboat，notwithoutdifficulty，andinthemorningwestartedinkurumaforthepointofembarkation。
　　Wewereeagertobeoffuponourvoyage，elseweshouldhavestrolledafootdownthelongmeadowslope，suchinvitationlayinit，thedewsparklingonthegrassblades，thefreshlytilledearthscentingtheair，andthelarksrisinglikerocketsupintotheskyandburstingintosongastheywent。Itseemedtheessenceofspring，andwehadamileormoreofitallbeforewereachedthebrinkofthecanon。
　　Forevenheretheriverhadbegunagorgeforitselfthroughtheplain。Weleftourjinrikishaatthetopandzigzaggedonfootdownthesteepdescent，andstraightwaydepartedtheupperlifeoffieldsandlarksandsunshineforanewandsemi-subterraneanone。Itwasnotsimplyachangeofscene;itwasacompletechangeofsphere。
　　Theworldwithitsfaceopentothedayinatwinklinghadceasedtobe，andanotherworld，aworldofdarkwatergirtbyshadowedwallsofrockandtrees，hadtakenitsplace。
　　Amidfarewellwavingsfromthejinrikishamenwepushedoffintothestream。Inspiteoftherushofthewaterandthecreakingoftheoars，astrangestillnesshadfallenoneverything。Theswirling，inkyfloodsweptusonpastthehushedbanks，heightsofmotionlessleavesnearlyhidingthegrayoldrock。Occasionallysomepuffofwindmoreadventurousthanitsfellowsswoopeddowntomaketheleavesquiveramoment，andthendiedawayinawe，whilehereandthereabirdflewinandoutamongthebrancheswithstrangelysubduedtwitter。
　　Althoughthispartoftherivercouldshowitsgorgeanditsrapids，itmadeonlytheprefacetothatchapterofitsbiographywehadcometoread。AtTokimata，somehoursfurtherdown，beginsthevoyageproper。Buteventheprefacewasimposing。Theblackwaterglidedsinuousalong，itsstealthycourseeverynowandagaininterruptedbyrapids，wherethesullenfloodlasheditselftoapassionofwhitecapswithakindofhissingroar。Downtheseweshot，theboatbowingfirstinacquiescence，andthenplungingasmadlyasthewateritself。Itwashardtobelievethatbothboatandriverwerenotsentientthings。
　　Atintervalswemetotherboatstoilingslowlyupstream，pulledlaboriouslybymenwhostrainedalongthebankattheendsofhundredsoffeetoftow-rope，theropesthemselvesinvisibleatfirstfordistance;sothatwewereawareonlyofmenwalkingalongtheshoreinattitudesofimpossibleequilibrium，andofboatsthatfollowedthemdoglikefrompureaffection。Itwouldseemwearyworkevenforcanal-boating。Ittakesweekstotoilupwhatitoncetookonlyhourstofloatdown。Aswespedpastthereturnconvoys，weseemedsadprofligates，thuswantonlytobesquanderingsuchdearly-wonvantageofposition。Thestreamwhichmeantmoneytothemwas，likemoney，hardcomeandeasygo。
　　Stillthestreamhurrieduson。Wehuggedthecliffs，nowononeside，nowontheother，onlytohavethemslipbyusthequicker。
　　Bendafterbendopened，spreadout，andclosed。Thescenechangedeveryminute，andyetwasalwaysthesame。Thenattimeswewerevouchsafedopeningsinthesurroundinghills，narrowbitsofforeground，hintsofasomethingthatexistedbeyond。
　　Forthreehoursandmorewekeptoninourserpentinecourse，fortherivermeanderedaswhimsicallyasifitstillhadachoiceofitsowninthematter。Thengraduallythelandaboutbegantomakeoverturestowardsociability。Thetreesonthebanksdisappeared，thebanksthemselvesdecreasedinheight;thentherivertooktoamoregenialflow，andpresentlywewerewareofthewholecountrysidetotherightcomingdowninonelongsweeptothewater’sedge。
　　Theprefacewasover。Thestreamwastohaveabreathingspellofairandsunlightbeforeitsgreatplungeintosixtymilesoftwilightcanon。Withaquickturnofhisrudderoartheboatmaninthesternbroughttheflat-bottomedcraftround，andinajiffyshelaybeachedontheshingleatTokimata。Itwasnowhighnoon。
　　Thegreaterpartofthevillagekindlysuperintendedtheoperationofdisembarking，andthenthemoreactiveofitsinhabitantstrottedbeforeasguidestotheinn。Forourboatwouldgonofurther，andthereforeallourbelongingshadtocomeout。Itwasonlywhenweinquiredforfurtherconveyancethatthecrowdshowedsignsofsatietyandedgedoff。Toourimportunitiesonthisheadthepopulacewerestatuesqueorworse。AJapaneseassentisnotalwaysthemostencouragingofreplies，andaJapanese"No"touchesinyouadepthnotunlikedespair。Theyhaveawayofhintingtheutterhopelessnessofyourwish，past，present，andtocome，aneternityofimpossibilitytomakeyouregretthatyoueverwereborn。Afterwehadreachedtheinn，andhadstatedourwantstoamoreinformedaudience，weweretoldthatthenauticalpartoftheinhabitantswereinthefields，gatheringmulberryleavesforthesilkworms。Fromthebribeweofferedtoinduceachangeinpursuit，wejudgedmoneytobenoobjecttothem。Thereremainednothing，therefore，butthepolice。
　　Itisgoodpolicynevertoinvokethelawexceptinthelastextremity，foryouareprettysafetohavesomeflawshownupinyoubeforeyouarethroughwithit。Thelawinthiscasewasrepresented，Yejirofound，byapersonstillyellowwiththejaundice。Hemetthedemandforboatmenwiththecounterdemandforthepassport，andwhenthiswasproducedhisofficialeyeatoncedetecteditsanachronism。
　　"This，"saidhe，"isnotinorder。Idonotseehowyoucangoonatall。"
　　Toaddartificialimpossibilitytonatural，wastoomuch。Yejiroansweredthathehadbettercometotheinn;whichheaccordinglydid。Poorman！Ipitiedhim。For，inthefirstplace，hewasstilljaundiced;and，inthesecond，althoughconsciousofguiltasIwas，Iwasmuchthelessdisturbedofthetwo。Iwasgettingusedtobeingaself-smuggler;whilehe，astheJapanesesay，was"taihenkomarimasu"（exceedingly"knownotwhattodo"），aphrasewhichisanationalcomplaint。Inthisinstancehehadcause。Whattodowithsohardenedasinnerwasaproblempassinghispowers。Herewasalaw-breakerwhobyrightsshouldatoncebebundledbacktoTokyounderpolicesurveillance。Buthecouldnotgohimself，hehadnoonetosend，andfurthermorethedelinquentseemedonlytoowillingtoescorthimselfthere，freeofgovernmentexpense，asspeedilyaspossible。AllIhadtodowastowhethisperceptionthatthesoonerboatmenweregotthesoonerIshouldbeontherightsideofthelawagain。Aftersomeconflictwithhimselfhewentinsearchofmen。
　　Iwaslefttostudythecarp-pond，withitsgoldandsilverfish，thepivotofattentionoftheprettylittlegardencourtwhichstoodhandytothekitchen。Thisjuxtapositionwasnoaccident;forsuchpondsarelandscapeandlarderinone。Betweenmealsthefisharescenery;attheapproachofthedinnerhourtheyturnintogame。
　　Theinnguesthavingsufficientlyenjoyedthegambolsoffuturerepasts，picksouthisdishtosuithistasteorcapacity，andthefishisinstantlynettedandtranslatedtothegridiron。Thesurvivors，nonethewiser，continuetosteamboatabout，intentontheirowndinners，flashingtheircolorsastheyturntheirarmoredsidesinandoutofthelight。Eccentricnaturehasfittedtheseprototypesofnavigationwithallthemodernimprovements。Doubleandeventriplesetsofscrewsarecommonthingsintails，andsometimesthefins，too，areduplex。Asforme，Ihadneithertheheartnorthestomachtohelpdepopulatethepond。ButItookmuchmechanicaldelightintheirmotions;soIfedtheminsteadoftheyme。
　　Ihadmychoicebetweendoingthisandwatchingthelateboatmenattheirdinnerinthedistance。Nodoubtmoodshaveanaestheticconscienceoftheirown，——theydemandappropriatesetting;forIwasannoyedatthehilarityofthesemenovertheirmiddaymeal。Iborethemnomalice，butIownIshouldhavepreferrednottohaveseenthemthusmakingfreewithtimetheyhaddeclaredthemselvesunabletoselltome。
　　Thanksinparttomyqualityofoutlaw，andinparttofourhours’
　　propitiationofthegodsofdelay，thejaundicedpolicemanfinallysucceededinbeatingupacrew。Therewerefourconscriptsinall，kerchiefed，nottosaypetticoated，inthenativenauticalcostume;
　　acostumenotduetobeingfresh-watersailors，sincetheirsalt-watercousinsaregiventoalikedisguiseofsex。Thesemarinersmadeuswaitwhiletheyfinishedtheirpreparations。Itmeantalongvoyagetothem，——afacilisdescensusAverni;sedrevocaregradum，——averylongpull。Thenthebowwaspoledoff，thecurrenttookusinitsarmsandswungusoutintothestream，andthecrowdontheshingledroppedperspectivelyastern。
　　WhileIwasstillstandinggazingatlesseningTokimata，Iheardacryfrombehindme，and，turning，duckedjustintimetoescapebeingunceremoniouslysomersaultedintothewaterbyahawserstretchedfrombanktobankatalevelsingularlysuitedtosuchatrick。
　　TheropewasthestationaryhalfofaferrytowhichIhadneglectedtomaketimelyobeisance。Itmarked，indeed，anincipientstageintheartofsuspensionbridges，theferryboatitselfsupportingapartoftheweight，whiletheferrymanpulleditandhimselfacross。
　　Wemetseveralmoreinthecourseofthenextfewminutes，beforewhichweallboweddownintothebottomoftheboat，whilethehawserscraped，grumblingimpotently，overhead。
　　Ourboatwasofadaptivebuild。Itwasforty-fivefeetlong，notquitefourfeetwide，andsomewhatovertwofeetdeep。Theseproportionsandthecharacterofthewoodmadeitexceedinglithe，sothatitbentlikeawillowbeforenecessity。Inthesternstoodtheheadman，wieldingforrudderanoarhalfaslongagainasthosetheothersused。Therewasverylittlerowingdone，norwasthereneed;
　　thecurrentitselftookusalongatracingspeed。
　　Shortlyafterduckingunderthelastferryropewereachedthegatewaytothecanon。Somerapidsmadeanintroduction，rocksinplacesjuttingoutofthefoam，andwhilewewerestillcurvetingtothewavesthehillssuddenlyclosedinuponthestreamintwobeetlingcliffs，spannedsurprisinglybyaloftycantaleverbridge。
　　Anindividualwhochancedtocrossatthemomentstoppedinmidpathtowatchusthrough。Thestreamsweptusin，andthecountrysidecontractedtoavanishingvistabehind。Wewerelaunchedonourlongcanonvoyage。Thechangewasassuddenasathunderstormofasmilingsummerafternoon。Itwasaneclipseoftheearthbytheearthitself。Darkrockspicketedwithtreesroseinstilldarkershadowoneitherhand，higherthanonecouldsee。Theblackriverswirledbesideus，silent，sullen，swift。Atthebottomofthatgorgeuntroddenbyman，bornebythedarkfloodthatuntouchedbysunlightcoiledsnakelikealong，weseemedadventuredonsomeunforgottenStyx。
　　Forsometimewehadvoyagedthuswithafeelingnotunlikeawe，whenallatoncetherewasabustleamongtheboatmen，andoneofthemwentforwardandstoodupinthebow。Wesweptroundacorner，andsawourfirstgreatrapidsthreehundredyardsahead。Wecouldmarkadipinthestream，andthenatumbledmassofwhitewater，whilearoarasofragecameoutofthebodyofit。Aswesweptdownuponthespot，themaninthebowbeganbeatingthegunwalewithhisoarinregularlyrepeatedraps。Theboardgaveoutahollowringthatstrangelyfilledtheriverchasm;asoundwellcalculatedtoterrifytheevilspiritsofthespot。Forindeeditwasanexorcismofhomoeopathicdesign。Hisincantationfinished，hestoodmotionless。
　　Sodidtherestofus，waitingfortheplunge。Theboatdippedbythebow，dartedforward，andinatricewewereinthemidstofadeafeningturmoilofboilingwatersandcrashingbreakers。Thebreakerslaidviolenthandsuponus，grapplingatthefrailgunwaleandcominginpartaboard，andthen，asweslippedfromtheirgrasp，impotentlyflungtheirsprayinourfaces，andwithagrowldroppedastern。Theboattrembledlikealeaf，andwastremblingyet，when，withnightmarespeed，thethinghadslippedintothepast，andwewereshotoutintothemidstoftheseethingfloodbelow。
　　Nottheleastimpressivepartoftheaffairwasthestrangespirit-rappingonthebow。Theboatmenvaliantlyassertedthatthiswassimplyforsignaltothemaninthestern。Undoubtedlynowtheactionhaslargelycloakeditselfinhabit，butthatitoncewassuperstitiousisunquestionable。DevilsstillconstitutefartoorespectedaportionofthecommunityinpeasantpartsofJapan。
　　Thesteeringtheboatmendidwasclever，butthesteeringthestreammanagedofitsownmotionwasmoreso。Forbetweentherapidsproperwereswirlsandwhirlpoolsandraceswithoutend。Thecurrenttookusinhandattheturns，sweepingusdownatspeedstraightforarockontheoppositebank，andthen，justasshipwreckseemedinevitable，whiskedusroundupontheothertack。Athickcushionofwaterhadfendedtheboatoff，sothattostrikewouldhavebeenasimpossibleasitlookedcertain。Andthenatintervalscametheroarofanotherrapid，likeastirringrefrain，withtheboatmaninthebowtobeatthetime。
　　Soweswepton，nowthroughinkyswirlsoftide，nowthroughsnow-cappedbillows，moodstheseofthepassingstream，whileabovethegrandcharacterofthegorgeremainedeternallythesame。
　　Thetreesfarup，sharp-etchedagainsttheblue，Letbuttheriver’sstripofskylightthroughTotreesbelow，thatoneachjuttingledgeScantfootholdfoundtooverlooktheedge，——
　　Asstillasstatuesontheirnichesthere，Wherenobreezestirredtheever-shadowedair，——
　　Spellboundspectators，crowdedtierontierFromwherethelowest，bendingtobenearTheshockofspray，withleavesa-tremblestoodInshudderinggazeabovetheswirlingflood。
　　Thewholedeepchasm，somevastnaturalnaveThattothethoughtatouchofgrandeurgave，Andtouchofgrace，——forthatwistariaclungUponthetrees，itsgrapelikebuncheshungInstretchtocatchtheirsemblanceinthestream;
　　Palepurpleclusters，meanttoliveindream，Placedhighaboveman’spredatoryclutch，Tosightalonevouchsafed，fromharmingtouchWiselywithheldasheishurriedpast，Andthusthemoreamemorytolast，Avioletvision;theretostay——fairfate——
　　Forevervirginlyinviolate。
　　Slowlythestripofskyoverheadbecamesteepedincolor，thehalflightatthebottomofthegorgedeepenedintint，andsuddenlyaturnbroughtusoutatablazeinthecliff，whereahandfulofhousesstraggleduptowardtheouterworld。WehadreachedMitsushima，ashaftinginthetunnel，andourhaltingplaceforthenight。
　　XXI。
　　TotheSea。
　　Itwasatenminutes’walk，thenextmorning，fromtheinndowntotheboat：aneverwindingpathalongasuccessionofterracesstuddedwithtreesjustbreakingintoleaf，anddottedwithcottages，whosefolkgaveusgood-dayaswepassed。Thesiteofthevillageslopedtothesouth，itscheekfullturnedtothesunshinethatstoledownandkisseditasitlay。OnthislovelyMaymorning，amidtheslumberingair，itmadeasamorousabitofspringtideastheheartcouldwish。Infrontofus，invignette，stretchedthestream，halfamileofittowhereitturnedthecorner。Eachsucceedinglevelofterraceresetthepicture，asiffortrialofeffect。
　　Theboatwaswaiting，lightlygroundedonabitofshingleleftbyaturnofthecurrent。Severalenthusiasticfollowersaccompaniedusouttoitwithrespectfulinsistence。
　　Onreachingourcraft，wefound，tooursurprise，thatitwasfullofbalesofmerchandiseoflargeandplethorichabit。Weaskedinastonishmentwhatallthiscargomeant。Themenansweredsheepishlythatitwastomaketheboatridebetter。Theboathadriddenwellenoughthedaybefore，andongeneralprinciplesshould，itwouldseem，rideallthebetterforbeinglight。Butindeedtheirguiltwasplain。Ourrascallyboatmen，whohadalreadychargedagoodlysumfortheircraft，hadthoughttoservetwomasters，andafterhavingleasedthewholeboattomewereintendingnowtoturnadishonestpennybyshippingsomebodyelse’sgoodsintothebargain。
　　Incompanywiththerestofmykind，Imuchdisliketobeimposedupon;soItoldthemtheymightinstantlytaketheso-calledballastoutagain。WhenIhadseentheprocessofdisembarkationfairlybegunIrelented，deciding，solongasthebaleswerealreadyaboard，totakethemontothefirststoppingplace，andthereputthemashore。
　　Theriver，itsbriefglimpseatcivilizationover，relapsedagainintouttersavagery。Rocksandtrees，aswildapparentlyastheirfirstforerunnersthere，walledusinonthesides，andappearedtodosoattheends，makingexitseemanimpossibility，andentrancetohavebeenadream。Thestreamgaveshortreaches，disclosingeveryfewminutes，asittookusroundafreshturn，anewvariationontheoldtheme。Then，asweglidedstraightourfewhundredfeet，thewallbehindusrosehigherandhigher，stretchingoutatusasiftopreventourpossibleescape。Wehadthoughtitonlyahighcliff，andbeholditwasthewholemountainsidethathadstoodbarrierthere。
　　Icannotpointthewildnessofitallbetterthandidacertainsightwecameuponsuddenly，roundacorner。Withouttheleastwarning，abendinthecurrentintroducedustoafishing-poleandabasket，reposingtogetheronthetopofarock。Thesetwohintsathumanitysatallbythemselves，keepingoneanothercompany;noothersignofmanwasvisibleanywhere。Thepairofwaifsgaveoneanoddfeeling，asmighttheshadowofapersonapartfromthepersonhimself。
　　Therewassomethinguncannyintheircommonplacenessinsouncommonaplace。Whilewewerestillwonderingatthewhereaboutsoftheirowner，anotherturndisclosedhimbyasortofcovewherehisboatlaydrawnup。Indeed，itwasanidealspotforanangler，andalucrativeoneaswell，fortheriverisnaturallyfulloffish。
　　WereItheanglerIhaveseenothers，IwouldencampherefortherestofmylifeandfeedoffsuchphosphoricdietasImightcatch，tothequickeningofthebrainandthecomposingofthebody。
　　Butfortunatelymanhasmoreoftheriverthanoftherockinhiscomposition，andwhetherhewillornoissteadilybeinghurriedpastsuchnicksinlifetowardotheradventuresbeyond。
　　Therapidsherewere，ifanything，finerthanthoseaboveMitsushima。
　　Oftheminalltherearesaidtobemorethanthirty。Somehavenicknames，as"theTurret，""theAdze，""BoilingRice，"and"theMountainBath。"Indeed，probablyallofthemhavedistinctiveappellations，butonecannotaskthenamesofeverybodyinaprocession。Thereweresomebadenoughtogiveoneasensation。
　　Twooftheworstrockshavebeenblownup，butenoughstillremaintopointamomentarymoraloradornanaftertale。Allwereexhilarating。
　　ThrougheventheleastbadIshouldhavebeenmorethansorrytohavecomealone。Butconfidingtrustintheboatmenwasnotmisplaced;
　　forifquestionableintheirmorals，theywereabovereproachintheirwater-craft。
　　Therapidswereincidents;thegorgewehadalwayswithus，superbcleftthatitwas，hewnasbysomegiantaxe，notchingthemountainchainimperiouslyforpassage。Hourfollowedhourwiththesamesetting。Howtheriverfirsttookitintoitsheadtocomethroughsomanifestlyunsuitableaplaceisasecretforthegeologisttotell。ButIforonewishIhadbeenbytosee。
　　Frommorningtillnoonweracedwiththewateratthebottomofthecanon。Eachturnwaslike，andyetunlike，theonebefore，sothatI
　　wonderthatIhaveotherthanablurredcompositepictureonmymind’splate。Yetcertainbitshavepickedthemselvesoutandoustedtherest，andtherivercomesuptomeinthoughtasvividasinlife。
　　Theserepeateddisclosuresthatdisclosednothinglulledusatlastintoahappyunconsciousnessofendinthissubterraneanpassagetoalowerworld。Thoughwewerecleavingthemountainchaininpartagainstthegrain，indeedbecausewewere，itshowednosignofgivingout;untilwithoutpremonitionacurveshotusoutatthefootofavillageperchedsoperpendicularlyonterracesthatitalmostoverhungthestream。ItwascalledNishinoto，andconsistedofastreetthatsidledupbetweenthedwellingsinamorethanalpineway。Upitweclimbedaeriallytoateahouseforlunch;butnotbeforeIhaddirectedtheboatmentodischargethesmuggledgoods。
　　Inanotherhourwewereunderwayagainlesstheuninvitedbales，which，leftsittingallaloneonthesands，mutelyreproachedustilltheycouldbeseennomore。Atthefirstbendthegorgeclosedroundaboutusasruggedasever。Therapidswerenotsodangerousasthoseabove，butthestreamwasstillfastiflessfurious。Whenwelookedatthewaterwedidnotappeartobemovingatall，andwhenwelookedupagainatthebankwealmostlostourbalanceforthesuddenstart。
　　Thengraduallyachangecreptoverthefaceofthings。Thestreamgrewathoughtmoresteady，thecanonashadelesswild。Wepassedthroughsomemorerapids，——ourlast，theboatmensaid。Theriverbegantowiden，themountainsstandingmorerespectfullyapart。
　　Theyletusseenothingnew，buttheyshowedusmoreofthemselves，andgrandbuttressestheymade。Thenthereachesgrewlonger，andotherhillslesshighbecamevisibleahead。Byallsignswewerecometothebeginningoftheend。Anotherturn，andwewereconfrontedwitharealview，——averyhillyview，tobesure，butonethatbelongedtotheworldofman。
　　Itwaslikecomingoutofatunnelintothelight。
　　Thecurrenthurrieduson。Ateachbendthehillsinfrontroselesswildthanatthebendbefore。Villagesbegantodottheshores，andtheriverspreadoutandtookitsease。Anothercurve，andwenolongersawhillsandrocksahead。Agreatplainstretchedbeforeus，overwhichoureyeswanderedatwill。Lookingback，wemarkedthemountainsalreadyclosingupinline。Itriedtoplacetheriver’sgap，butthebarrierhadgrowncontinuoustotheeye。Likeadventurersinafairytale，theopeningthroughwhichwehadcomehadclosedunrecognizablybehindus。
　　Infrontallwasplain，every-dayplain，withpeopletillingit，andhamlets;andintheimmediateforeground，rightathwartourcourse，aferryboatfulloffolk。Asweboredownbetweenitandthelandingplacetwomengesticulatedatusfromthebank。Weswervedintowardthem。Theyshoutedsomethingtotheboatmen，andYejiroturnedtome。Thewayfarersaskedifwewouldletthemgowithustothesea。
　　Therewasnoregularconveyance，andtheymuchdesiredtoreachtheTokaidothatnight。WhatwouldIdo？
　　"Oh！Verywell，"saidI，reluctantly，"takethemonboard。"
　　Soithadcometothis，afterourromanticsolitaryvoyage！Weweretoendasacommoncarrier，afterall。Oneisbornademigod，theFrenchsay，todieagrocer。
　　Ourpassengerswerehonestandbusinesslike。Soonaftercomingaboardtheyofferedtopayfortheirpassage，anofferIpolitelydeclined。ThentheyfelltochattingwithYejiro，andIdoubtnotinfiveminuteshadpossessedthemselvesofallourimmediatehistory。
　　Meanwhile，theriverwaslazilydroppingusdowntothesea。Ontheleft，atarespectfuldistance，along，lowrise，likeabitoffortification，randownindefinitelyinthesamedirection，bywayofencouragingthestream。Pitiablesupposition！Wasthismeadow-meanderingbitofwaterindeedourwildTenriugawa！Itseemedimpossible。Oncewehadabatheticbitofexcitementoveranearcaseofgrounding，wherethewaterhadspreaditselfouttorippledowntoalowerlevel。Thiswasalltorecallthepast。Thestreamhadgrownsteadyandprofitable。Morethanoncewepassedcraftjarringlymercantile，andevensomehighlyrespectableautomations，water-wheelboatsanchoredinthecurrent，nosetotail，inalongline，apparentlypaddlingupstream，butneveradvancinganinch。
　　Andallthesesightshadawork-a-day，machinelooklikemiddleage。
　　Theafternoonagedtomatch。Thesunbegantodipbehindthedistanthills;andthentowardtheeast，infrontofus，cameoutthelongoutlineoftheTokaidobridge，threequartersofamileinlength，likeahugecaterpillarcrawlingmethodicallyacrosstheriver-bed。
　　Graduallywedrewtowardit，tillitsmyriadlegsglintedinthesunsetglow;andthen，aswesweptunder，itwheeledroundtobecomeinstantlyagauntstalkingsilhouetteagainstthesky。Frombelowbytheriver’smouththeroarofthesurfcameforebodinglyupoutoftheasheneast。Butinthewestwasstillaglory，andasIturnedtoitIseemedtolookdownthelongvistaofthejourneytowesternNotobythesea。IthoughthowIhadpicturedittomyselfbeforestarting，andthenhowlittlethefactshadfittedthefancy。Ithadlostandgained;ifnolongermaiden，itwasmine，andtheglamourthatfringesthefuturehadbutchangedtotheglamourthatgildsthepast。Distancehadbroughtitallbackagain。Delays，discomforts，difficulties，disappeared，anditsmemoryroseaslovelyastheskypastwhichIlooked。Forthebetterpartofplaceorpersonisthethoughtitleavesbehind。