Theleisurerenderedbythewifeinsuchcasesis,ofcourse,notasimplemanifestationofidlenessorindolence。Italmostinvariablyoccursdisguisedundersomeformofworkorhouseholddutiesorsocialamenities,whichproveonanalysistoservelittleornoulteriorendbeyondshowingthatshedoesnotoccupyherselfwithanythingthatisgainfulorthatisofsubstantialuse。Ashasalreadybeennoticedundertheheadofmanners,thegreaterpartofthecustomaryroundofdomesticcarestowhichthemiddle-classhousewifegiveshertimeandeffortisofthischaracter。Notthattheresultsofherattentiontohouseholdmatters,ofadecorativeandmundificatorycharacter,arenotpleasingtothesenseofmentrainedinmiddle-classproprieties;butthetastetowhichtheseeffectsofhouseholdadornmentandtidinessappealisatastewhichhasbeenformedundertheselectiveguidanceofacanonofproprietythatdemandsjusttheseevidencesofwastedeffort。Theeffectsarepleasingtouschieflybecausewehavebeentaughttofindthempleasing。Theregoesintothesedomesticdutiesmuchsolicitudeforapropercombinationofformandcolor,andforotherendsthataretobeclassedasaestheticinthepropersenseoftheterm;anditisnotdeniedthateffectshavingsomesubstantialaestheticvaluearesometimesattained。Prettymuchallthatishereinsistedonisthat,asregardstheseamenitiesoflife,thehousewife’seffortsareundertheguidanceoftraditionsthathavebeenshapedbythelawofconspicuouslywastefulexpenditureoftimeandsubstance。Ifbeautyorcomfortisachieved-anditisamoreorlessfortuitouscircumstanceiftheyare-theymustbeachievedbymeansandmethodsthatcommendthemselvestothegreateconomiclawofwastedeffort。Themorereputable,“presentable“portionofmiddle-classhouseholdparaphernaliaare,ontheonehand,itemsofconspicuousconsumption,andontheotherhand,apparatusforputtinginevidencethevicariousleisurerenderedbythehousewife。
Therequirementofvicariousconsumptionatthehandsofthewifecontinuesinforceevenatalowerpointinthepecuniaryscalethantherequirementofvicariousleisure。Atapointbelowwhichlittleifanypretenseofwastedeffort,inceremonialcleannessandthelike,isobservable,andwherethereisassuredlynoconsciousattemptatostensibleleisure,decencystillrequiresthewifetoconsumesomegoodsconspicuouslyforthereputabilityofthehouseholdanditshead。Sothat,asthelatter-dayoutcomeofthisevolutionofanarchaicinstitution,thewife,whowasattheoutsetthedrudgeandchatteloftheman,bothinfactandintheory——theproducerofgoodsforhimtoconsume——hasbecometheceremonialconsumerofgoodswhichheproduces。Butshestillquiteunmistakablyremainshischattelintheory;forthehabitualrenderingofvicariousleisureandconsumptionistheabidingmarkoftheunfreeservant。
Thisvicariousconsumptionpracticedbythehouseholdofthemiddleandlowerclassescannotbecountedasadirectexpressionoftheleisure-classschemeoflife,sincethehouseholdofthispecuniarygradedoesnotbelongwithintheleisureclass。Itisratherthattheleisure-classschemeoflifeherecomestoanexpressionatthesecondremove。Theleisureclassstandsattheheadofthesocialstructureinpointofreputability;anditsmanneroflifeanditsstandardsofworththereforeaffordthenormofreputabilityforthecommunity。Theobservanceofthesestandards,insomedegreeofapproximation,becomesincumbentuponallclasseslowerinthescale。Inmoderncivilizedcommunitiesthelinesofdemarcationbetweensocialclasseshavegrownvagueandtransient,andwhereverthishappensthenormofreputabilityimposedbytheupperclassextendsitscoerciveinfluencewithbutslighthindrancedownthroughthesocialstructuretotheloweststrata。Theresultisthatthemembersofeachstratumacceptastheiridealofdecencytheschemeoflifeinvogueinthenexthigherstratum,andbendtheirenergiestoliveuptothatideal。Onpainofforfeitingtheirgoodnameandtheirself-respectincaseoffailure,theymustconformtotheacceptedcode,atleastinappearance。
Thebasisonwhichgoodreputeinanyhighlyorganizedindustrialcommunityultimatelyrestsispecuniarystrength;andthemeansofshowingpecuniarystrength,andsoofgainingorretainingagoodname,areleisureandaconspicuousconsumptionofgoods。Accordingly,bothofthesemethodsareinvogueasfardownthescaleasitremainspossible;andinthelowerstratainwhichthetwomethodsareemployed,bothofficesareingreatpartdelegatedtothewifeandchildrenofthehousehold。Lowerstill,whereanydegreeofleisure,evenostensible,hasbecomeimpracticableforthewife,theconspicuousconsumptionofgoodsremainsandiscarriedonbythewifeandchildren。Themanofthehouseholdalsocandosomethinginthisdirection,andindeed,hecommonlydoes;butwithastilllowerdescentintothelevelsofindigence——alongthemarginoftheslums——theman,andpresentlyalsothechildren,virtuallyceasetoconsumevaluablegoodsforappearances,andthewomanremainsvirtuallythesoleexponentofthehousehold’specuniarydecency。Noclassofsociety,noteventhemostabjectlypoor,forgoesallcustomaryconspicuousconsumption。ThelastitemsofthiscategoryofconsumptionarenotgivenupexceptunderstresSofthedirestnecessity。Verymuchofsqualoranddiscomfortwillbeenduredbeforethelasttrinketorthelastpretenseofpecuniarydecencyisputaway。Thereisnoclassandnocountrythathasyieldedsoabjectlybeforethepressureofphysicalwantastodenythemselvesallgratificationofthishigherorspiritualneed。
Fromtheforegoingsurveyofthegrowthofconspicuousleisureandconsumption,itappearsthattheutilityofbothalikeforthepurposesofreputabilityliesintheelementofwastethatiscommontoboth。Intheonecaseitisawasteoftimeandeffort,intheotheritisawasteofgoods。Botharemethodsofdemonstratingthepossessionofwealth,andthetwoareconventionallyacceptedasequivalents。Thechoicebetweenthemisaquestionofadvertisingexpediencysimply,exceptsofarasitmaybeaffectedbyotherstandardsofpropriety,springingfromadifferentsource。Ongroundsofexpediencythepreferencemaybegiventotheoneortheotheratdifferentstagesoftheeconomicdevelopment。Thequestionis,whichofthetwomethodswillmosteffectivelyreachthepersonswhoseconvictionsitisdesiredtoaffect。Usagehasansweredthisquestionindifferentwaysunderdifferentcircumstances。
Solongasthecommunityorsocialgroupissmallenoughandcompactenoughtobeeffectuallyreachedbycommonnotorietyalonethatistosay,solongasthehumanenvironmenttowhichtheindividualisrequiredtoadapthimselfinrespectofreputabilityiscomprisedwithinhissphereofpersonalacquaintanceandneighborhoodgossip——solongtheonemethodisaboutaseffectiveastheother。Eachwillthereforeserveaboutequallywellduringtheearlierstagesofsocialgrowth。Butwhenthedifferentiationhasgonefartheranditbecomesnecessarytoreachawiderhumanenvironment,consumptionbeginstoholdoverleisureasanordinarymeansofdecency。Thisisespeciallytrueduringthelater,peaceableeconomicstage。Themeansofcommunicationandthemobilityofthepopulationnowexposetheindividualtotheobservationofmanypersonswhohavenoothermeansofjudgingofhisreputabilitythanthedisplayofgoodsandperhapsofbreedingwhichheisabletomakewhileheisundertheirdirectobservation。
Themodernorganizationofindustryworksinthesamedirectionalsobyanotherline。Theexigenciesofthemodernindustrialsystemfrequentlyplaceindividualsandhouseholdsinjuxtapositionbetweenwhomthereislittlecontactinanyothersensethanthatofjuxtaposition。One’sneighbors,mechanicallyspeaking,oftenaresociallynotone’sneighbors,orevenacquaintances;andstilltheirtransientgoodopinionhasahighdegreeofutility。Theonlypracticablemeansofimpressingone’specuniaryabilityontheseunsympatheticobserversofone’severydaylifeisanunremittingdemonstrationofabilitytopay。
Inthemoderncommunitythereisalsoamorefrequentattendanceatlargegatheringsofpeopletowhomone’severydaylifeisunknown;insuchplacesaschurches,theaters,ballrooms,hotels,parks,shops,andthelike。Inordertoimpressthesetransientobservers,andtoretainone’sself-complacencyundertheirobservation,thesignatureofone’specuniarystrengthshouldbewrittenincharacterswhichhewhorunsmayread。Itisevident,therefore,thatthepresenttrendofthedevelopmentisinthedirectionofheighteningtheutilityofconspicuousconsumptionascomparedwithleisure。
Itisalsonoticeablethattheserviceabilityofconsumptionasameansofrepute,aswellastheinsistenceonitasanelementofdecency,isatitsbestinthoseportionsofthecommunitywherethehumancontactoftheindividualiswidestandthemobilityofthepopulationisgreatest。Conspicuousconsumptionclaimsarelativelylargerportionoftheincomeoftheurbanthanoftheruralpopulation,andtheclaimisalsomoreimperative。Theresultisthat,inordertokeepupadecentappearance,theformerhabituallylivehand-to-mouthtoagreaterextentthanthelatter。Soitcomes,forinstance,thattheAmericanfarmerandhiswifeanddaughtersarenotoriouslylessmodishintheirdress,aswellaslessurbaneintheirmanners,thanthecityartisan’sfamilywithanequalincome。Itisnotthatthecitypopulationisbynaturemuchmoreeagerforthepeculiarcomplacencythatcomesofaconspicuousconsumption,norhastheruralpopulationlessregardforpecuniarydecency。Buttheprovocationtothislineofevidence,aswellasitstransienteffectiveness,ismoredecidedinthecity。Thismethodisthereforemorereadilyresortedto,andinthestruggletooutdooneanotherthecitypopulationpushtheirnormalstandardofconspicuousconsumptiontoahigherpoint,withtheresultthatarelativelygreaterexpenditureinthisdirectionisrequiredtoindicateagivendegreeofpecuniarydecencyinthecity。Therequirementofconformitytothishigherconventionalstandardbecomesmandatory。Thestandardofdecencyishigher,classforclass,andthisrequirementofdecentappearancemustbeliveduptoonpainoflosingcaste。
Consumptionbecomesalargerelementinthestandardoflivinginthecitythaninthecountry。AmongthecountrypopulationitsplaceistosomeextenttakenbysavingsandhomecomfortsknownthroughthemediumofneighborhoodgossipsufficientlytoservethelikegeneralpurposeofPecuniaryrepute。Thesehomecomfortsandtheleisureindulgedin——wheretheindulgenceisfound——areofcoursealsoingreatparttobeclassedasitemsofconspicuousconsumption;andmuchthesameistobesaidofthesavings。Thesmalleramountofthesavingslaidbybytheartisanclassisnodoubtdue,insomemeasure,tothefactthatinthecaseoftheartisanthesavingsarealesseffectivemeansofadvertisement,relativetotheenvironmentinwhichheisplaced,thanarethesavingsofthepeoplelivingonfarmsandinthesmallvillages。Amongthelatter,everybody’saffairs,especiallyeverybody’specuniarystatus,areknowntoeverybodyelse。Consideredbyitselfsimply——takeninthefirstdegree——thisaddedprovocationtowhichtheartisanandtheurbanlaboringclassesareexposedmaynotveryseriouslydecreasetheamountofsavings;butinitscumulativeaction,throughraisingthestandardofdecentexpenditure,itsdeterrenteffectonthetendencytosavecannotbutbeverygreat。
Afelicitousillustrationofthemannerinwhichthiscanonofreputabilityworksoutitsresultsisseeninthepracticeofdram-drinking,“treating,“andsmokinginpublicplaces,whichiscustomaryamongthelaborersandhandicraftsmenofthetowns,andamongthelowermiddleclassoftheurbanpopulationgenerallyJourneymenprintersmaybenamedasaclassamongwhomthisformofconspicuousconsumptionhasagreatvogue,andamongwhomitcarrieswithitcertainwell-markedconsequencesthatareoftendeprecated。Thepeculiarhabitsoftheclassinthisrespectarecommonlysetdowntosomekindofanill-definedmoraldeficiencywithwhichthisclassiscredited,ortoamorallydeleteriousinfluencewhichtheiroccupationissupposedtoexert,insomeunascertainableway,uponthemenemployedinit。Thestateofthecaseforthemenwhoworkinthecompositionandpressroomsofthecommonrunofprinting-housesmaybesummedupasfollows。
Skillacquiredinanyprinting-houseoranycityiseasilyturnedtoaccountinalmostanyotherhouseorcity;thatistosay,theinertiaduetospecialtrainingisslight。Also,thisoccupationrequiresmorethantheaverageofintelligenceandgeneralinformation,andthemenemployedinitarethereforeordinarilymorereadythanmanyotherstotakeadvantageofanyslightvariationinthedemandfortheirlaborfromoneplacetoanother。Theinertiaduetothehomefeelingisconsequentlyalsoslight。Atthesametimethewagesinthetradearehighenoughtomakemovementfromplacetoplacerelativelyeasy。Theresultisagreatmobilityofthelaboremployedinprinting;perhapsgreaterthaninanyotherequallywell-definedandconsiderablebodyofworkmen。Thesemenareconstantlythrownincontactwithnewgroupsofacquaintances,withwhomtherelationsestablishedaretransientorephemeral,butwhosegoodopinionisvaluednonethelessforthetimebeing。Thehumanproclivitytoostentation,reenforcedbysentimentsofgoodfellowship,leadsthemtospendfreelyinthosedirectionswhichwillbestservetheseneeds。
Hereaselsewhereprescriptionseizesuponthecustomassoonasitgainsavogue,andincorporatesitintheaccreditedstandardofdecency。Thenextstepistomakethisstandardofdecencythepointofdepartureforanewmoveinadvanceinthesamedirection——forthereisnomeritinsimplespiritlessconformitytoastandardofdissipationthatisliveduptoasamatterofcoursebyeveryoneinthetrade。