Duringtheearlierstagesofeconomicdevelopment，consumptionofgoodswithoutstint，especiallyconsumptionofthebettergradesofgoods，——ideallyallconsumptioninexcessofthesubsistenceminimum，——pertainsnormallytotheleisureclass。Thisrestrictiontendstodisappear，atleastformally，afterthelaterpeaceablestagehasbeenreached，withprivateownershipofgoodsandanindustrialsystembasedonwagelabouroronthepettyhouseholdeconomy。Butduringtheearlierquasi猵eaceablestage，whensomanyofthetraditionsthroughwhichtheinstitutionofaleisureclasshasaffectedtheeconomiclifeoflatertimesweretakingformandconsistency，thisprinciplehashadtheforceofaconventionallaw。Ithasservedasthenormtowhichconsumptionhastendedtoconform，andanyappreciabledeparturefromitistoberegardedasanaberrantform，suretobeeliminatedsoonerorlaterinthefurthercourseofdevelopment。
　　Thequasi-peaceablegentlemanofleisure，then，notonlyconsumesofthestaffoflifebeyondtheminimumrequiredforsubsistenceandphysicalefficiency，buthisconsumptionalsoundergoesaspecialisationasregardsthequalityofthegoodsconsumed。Heconsumesfreelyandofthebest，infood，drink，narcotics，shelter，services，ornaments，apparel，weaponsandaccoutrements，amusements，amulets，andidolsordivinities。Intheprocessofgradualameliorationwhichtakesplaceinthearticlesofhisconsumption，themotiveprincipleandproximateaimofinnovationisnodoubtthehigherefficiencyoftheimprovedandmoreelaborateproductsforpersonalcomfortandwell-being。Butthatdoesnotremainthesolepurposeoftheirconsumption。Thecanonofreputabilityisathandandseizesuponsuchinnovationsasare，accordingtoitsstandard，fittosurvive。Sincetheconsumptionofthesemoreexcellentgoodsisanevidenceofwealth，itbecomeshonorific；andconversely，thefailuretoconsumeinduequantityandqualitybecomesamarkofinferiorityanddemerit。
　　Thisgrowthofpunctiliousdiscriminationastoqualitativeexcellenceineating，drinking，etc。presentlyaffectsnotonlythemanneroflife，butalsothetrainingandintellectualactivityofthegentlemanofleisure。Heisnolongersimplythesuccessful，aggressivemale，——themanofstrength，resource，andintrepidity。Inordertoavoidstultificationhemustalsocultivatehistastes，foritnowbecomesincumbentonhimtodiscriminatewithsomenicetybetweenthenobleandtheignobleinconsumablegoods。Hebecomesaconnoisseurincreditableviandsofvariousdegreesofmerit，inmanlybeveragesandtrinkets，inseemlyapparelandarchitecture，inweapons，games，dancers，andthenarcotics。Thiscultivationofaestheticfacultyrequirestimeandapplication，andthedemandsmadeuponthegentlemaninthisdirectionthereforetendtochangehislifeofleisureintoamoreorlessarduousapplicationtothebusinessoflearninghowtolivealifeofostensibleleisureinabecomingway。Closelyrelatedtotherequirementthatthegentlemanmustconsumefreelyandoftherightkindofgoods，thereistherequirementthathemustknowhowtoconsumetheminaseemlymanner。Hislifeofleisuremustbeconductedindueform。Hencearisegoodmannersinthewaypointedoutinanearlierchapter。High-bredmannersandwaysoflivingareitemsofconformitytothenormofconspicuousleisureandconspicuousconsumption。
　　Conspicuousconsumptionofvaluablegoodsisameansofreputabilitytothegentlemanofleisure。Aswealthaccumulatesonhishands，hisownunaidedeffortwillnotavailtosufficientlyputhisopulenceinevidencebythismethod。Theaidoffriendsandcompetitorsisthereforebroughtinbyresortingtothegivingofvaluablepresentsandexpensivefeastsandentertainments。Presentsandfeastshadprobablyanotheroriginthanthatofnaiveostentation，buttheyrequiredtheirutilityforthispurposeveryearly，andtheyhaveretainedthatcharactertothepresent；sothattheirutilityinthisrespecthasnowlongbeenthesubstantialgroundonwhichtheseusagesrest。Costlyentertainments，suchasthepotlatchortheball，arepeculiarlyadaptedtoservethisend。Thecompetitorwithwhomtheentertainerwishestoinstituteacomparisonis，bythismethod，madetoserveasameanstotheend。Heconsumesvicariouslyforhishostatthesametimethatheiswitnesstotheconsumptionofthatexcessofgoodthingswhichhishostisunabletodisposeofsingle-handed，andheisalsomadetowitnesshishost’sfacilityinetiquette。
　　Inthegivingofcostlyentertainmentsothermotives，ofmoregenialkind，areofcoursealsopresent。Thecustomoffestivegatheringsprobablyoriginatedinmotivesofconvivialityandreligion；thesemotivesarealsopresentinthelaterdevelopment，buttheydonotcontinuetobethesolemotives。Thelatter-dayleisure-classfestivitiesandentertainmentsmaycontinueinsomeslightdegreetoservethereligiousneedandinahigherdegreetheneedsofrecreationandconviviality，buttheyalsoserveaninvidiouspurpose；andtheyserveitnonethelesseffectuallyforhavingacolorablenon-invidiousgroundinthesemoreavowablemotives。Buttheeconomiceffectofthesesocialamenitiesisnotthereforelessened，eitherinthevicariousconsumptionofgoodsorintheexhibitionofdifficultandcostlyachievementsinetiquette。
　　Aswealthaccumulates，theleisureclassdevelopsfurtherinfunctionandstructure，andtherearisesadifferentiationwithintheclass。Thereisamoreorlesselaboratesystemofrankandgrades。Thisdifferentiationisfurtheredbytheinheritanceofwealthandtheconsequentinheritanceofgentility。Withtheinheritanceofgentilitygoestheinheritanceofobligatoryleisure；andgentilityofasufficientpotencytoentailalifeofleisuremaybeinheritedwithoutthecomplementofwealthrequiredtomaintainadignifiedleisure。Gentlebloodmaybetransmittedwithoutgoodsenoughtoaffordareputablyfreeconsumptionatone’sease。Henceresultsaclassofimpecuniousgentlemenofleisure，incidentallyreferredtoalready。Thesehalf-castegentlemenofleisurefallintoasystemofhierarchicalgradations。Thosewhostandnearthehigherandthehighestgradesofthewealthyleisureclass，inpointofbirth，orinpointofwealth，orboth，outranktheremoter-bornandthepecuniarilyweaker。Theselowergrades，especiallytheimpecunious，ormarginal，gentlemenofleisure，affiliatethemselvesbyasystemofdependenceorfealtytothegreatones；
　　bysodoingtheygainanincrementofrepute，orofthemeanswithwhichtoleadalifeofleisure，fromtheirpatron。Theybecomehiscourtiersorretainers，servants；andbeingfedandcountenancedbytheirpatrontheyareindicesofhisrankandvicariousconsumerofhissuperfluouswealth。Manyoftheseaffiliatedgentlemenofleisureareatthesametimelessermenofsubstanceintheirownright；sothatsomeofthemarescarcelyatall，othersonlypartially，toberatedasvicariousconsumers。Somanyofthem，however，asmakeuptheretainerandhangers-onofthepatronmaybeclassedasvicariousconsumerwithoutqualification。Manyoftheseagain，andalsomanyoftheotheraristocracyoflessdegree，haveinturnattachedtotheirpersonsamoreorlesscomprehensivegroupofvicariousconsumerinthepersonsoftheirwivesandchildren，theirservants，retainers，etc。
　　Throughoutthisgraduatedschemeofvicariousleisureandvicariousconsumptiontheruleholdsthattheseofficesmustbeperformedinsomesuchmanner，orundersomesuchcircumstanceorinsignia，asshallpointplainlytothemastertowhomthisleisureorconsumptionpertains，andtowhomthereforetheresultingincrementofgoodreputeofrightinures。Theconsumptionandleisureexecutedbythesepersonsfortheirmasterorpatronrepresentsaninvestmentonhispartwithaviewtoanincreaseofgoodfame。Asregardsfeastsandlargessesthisisobviousenough，andtheimputationofreputetothehostorpatronheretakesplaceimmediately，onthegroundofcommonnotoriety。Whereleisureandconsumptionisperformedvicariouslybyhenchmenandretainers，imputationoftheresultingreputetothepatroniseffectedbytheirresidingnearhispersonsothatitmaybeplaintoallmenfromwhatsourcetheydraw。Asthegroupwhosegoodesteemistobesecuredinthiswaygrowslarger，morepatentmeansarerequiredtoindicatetheimputationofmeritfortheleisureperformed，andtothisenduniforms，badges，andliveriescomeintovogue。Thewearingofuniformsorliveriesimpliesaconsiderabledegreeofdependence，andmayevenbesaidtobeamarkofservitude，realorostensible。Thewearersofuniformsandliveriesmayberoughlydividedintotwoclasses-thefreeandtheservile，orthenobleandtheignoble。Theservicesperformedbythemarelikewisedivisibleintonobleandignoble。Ofcoursethedistinctionisnotobservedwithstrictconsistencyinpractice；
　　thelessdebasingofthebaseservicesandthelesshonorificofthenoblefunctionsarenotinfrequentlymergedinthesameperson。Butthegeneraldistinctionisnotonthataccounttobeoverlooked。Whatmayaddsomeperplexityisthefactthatthisfundamentaldistinctionbetweennobleandignoble，whichrestsonthenatureoftheostensibleserviceperformed，istraversedbyasecondarydistinctionintohonorificandhumiliating，restingontherankofthepersonforwhomtheserviceisperformedorwhoseliveryisworn。So，thoseofficeswhicharebyrighttheproperemploymentoftheleisureclassarenoble；suchasgovernment，fighting，hunting，thecareofarmsandaccoutrements，andthelike——inshort，thosewhichmaybeclassedasostensiblypredatoryemployments。Ontheotherhand，thoseemploymentswhichproperlyfalltotheindustriousclassareignoble；suchashandicraftorotherproductivelabor，menialservicesandthelike。Butabaseserviceperformedforapersonofveryhighdegreemaybecomeaveryhonorificoffice；asforinstancetheofficeofaMaidofHonororofaLadyinWaitingtotheQueen，ortheKing’sMasteroftheHorseorhisKeeperoftheHounds。
　　Thetwoofficeslastnamedsuggestaprincipleofsomegeneralbearing。Whenever，asinthesecases，themenialserviceinquestionhastododirectlywiththeprimaryleisureemploymentsoffightingandhunting，iteasilyacquiresareflectedhonorificcharacter。Inthiswaygreathonormaycometoattachtoanemploymentwhichinitsownnaturebelongstothebasersort。
　　Inthelaterdevelopmentofpeaceableindustry，theusageofemployinganidlecorpsofuniformedmen-at-armsgraduallylapses。Vicariousconsumptionbydependentsbearingtheinsigniaoftheirpatronormasternarrowsdowntoacorpsofliveriedmenials。Inaheighteneddegree，therefore，theliverycomestobeabadgeofservitude，orratherservility。Somethingofahonorificcharacteralwaysattachedtotheliveryofthearmedretainer，butthishonorificcharacterdisappearswhentheliverybecomestheexclusivebadgeofthemenial。Theliverybecomesobnoxioustonearlyallwhoarerequiredtowearit。Weareyetsolittleremovedfromastateofeffectiveslaveryasstilltobefullysensitivetothestingofanyimputationofservility。
　　Thisantipathyassertsitselfeveninthecaseoftheliveriesoruniformswhichsomecorporationsprescribeasthedistinctivedressoftheiremployees。Inthiscountrytheaversionevengoesthelengthofdiscrediting——inamildanduncertainway——
　　thosegovernmentemployments，militaryandcivil，whichrequirethewearingofaliveryoruniform。
　　Withthedisappearanceofservitude，thenumberofvicariousconsumersattachedtoanyonegentlemantends，onthewhole，todecrease。Thelikeisofcoursetrue，andperhapsinastillhigherdegree，ofthenumberofdependentswhoperformvicariousleisureforhim。Inageneralway，thoughnotwhollynorconsistently，thesetwogroupscoincide。Thedependentwhowasfirstdelegatedforthesedutieswasthewife，orthechiefwife；
　　and，aswouldbeexpected，inthelaterdevelopmentoftheinstitution，whenthenumberofpersonsbywhomthesedutiesarecustomarilyperformedgraduallynarrows，thewiferemainsthelast。Inthehighergradesofsocietyalargevolumeofboththesekindsofserviceisrequired；andherethewifeisofcoursestillassistedintheworkbyamoreorlessnumerouscorpsofmenials。Butaswedescendthesocialscale，thepointispresentlyreachedwherethedutiesofvicariousleisureandconsumptiondevolveuponthewifealone。InthecommunitiesoftheWesternculture，thispointisatpresentfoundamongthelowermiddleclass。
　　Andhereoccursacuriousinversion。Itisafactofcommonobservancethatinthislowermiddleclassthereisnopretenseofleisureonthepartoftheheadofthehousehold。Throughforceofcircumstancesithasfallenintodisuse。Butthemiddle-classwifestillcarriesonthebusinessofvicariousleisure，forthegoodnameofthehouseholdanditsmaster。Indescendingthesocialscaleinanymodernindustrialcommunity，theprimaryfact-theconspicuousleisureofthemasterofthehousehold-disappearsatarelativelyhighpoint。Theheadofthemiddle-classhouseholdhasbeenreducedbyeconomiccircumstancestoturnhishandtogainingalivelihoodbyoccupationswhichoftenpartakelargelyofthecharacterofindustry，asinthecaseoftheordinarybusinessmanoftoday。Butthederivativefact-thevicariousleisureandconsumptionrenderedbythewife，andtheauxiliaryvicariousperformanceofleisurebymenials-remainsinvogueasaconventionalitywhichthedemandsofreputabilitywillnotsuffertobeslighted。Itisbynomeansanuncommonspectacletofindamanapplyinghimselftoworkwiththeutmostassiduity，inorderthathiswifemayindueformrenderforhimthatdegreeofvicariousleisurewhichthecommonsenseofthetimedemands。