ThecauseofthedecadenceofthePortuguesepowerinthisregionissimplythis：Informertimes，considerablequantitiesofgrain，aswheat，millet，andmaize，wereexported；alsocoffee，sugar，oil，andindigo，besidesgold-dustandivoryThecultivationofgrainwascarriedonbymeansofslaves，ofwhomthePortuguesepossessedalargenumberThegold-dustwasprocuredbywashingatvariouspointsonthenorth，south，andwestofTeteAmerchanttookallhisslaveswithhimtothewashings，carryingasmuchcalicoandothergoodsashecouldmusterOnarrivingatthewashing-place，hemadeapresenttothechiefofthevalueofaboutapoundsterling。
Theslaveswerethendividedintoparties，eachheadedbyaconfidentialservant，whonotonlyhadthesupervisionofhissquadwhilethewashingwenton，butboughtdustfromtheinhabitants，andmadeaweeklyreturntohismasterWhenseveralmastersunitedatonespot，itwascalleda“Bara“，andtheythenerectedatemporarychurch，inwhichapriestfromoneofthemissionsperformedmass。
Bothchiefsandpeoplewerefavorabletothesevisits，becausethetraderspurchasedgrainforthesustenanceoftheslaveswiththegoodstheyhadbroughtTheycontinuedatthislaboruntilthewholeofthegoodswereexpended，andbythismeansabout130lbsofgoldwereannuallyproducedProbablymorethanthiswasactuallyobtained，but，asitwasanarticleeasilysecreted，thisalonewassubmittedtotheauthoritiesfortaxation。
AtpresentthewholeamountofgoldobtainedannuallybythePortugueseisfrom8to10lbsonlyWhentheslave-tradebegan，itseemedtomanyofthemerchantsamorespeedymodeofbecomingrichtosellofftheslavesthantopursuetheslowmodeofgold-washingandagriculture，andtheycontinuedtoexportthemuntiltheyhadneitherhandstolabornortofightforthemItwasjustthestoryofthegooseandthegoldenegg。
Thecoffeeandsugarplantationsandgold-washingswereabandoned，becausethelaborhadbeenexportedtotheBrazilsManyofthePortuguesethenfollowedtheirslaves，andthegovernmentwasobligedtopassalawtopreventfurtheremigration，which，haditgoneon，wouldhavedepopulatedthePortuguesepossessionsaltogether。
AclevermanofAsiaticGoaandPortugueseextraction，calledNyaude，nowbuiltastockadeattheconfluenceoftheLuenyaandZambesi；
andwhenthecommandantofTetesentanofficerwithhiscompanytosummonhimtohispresence，Nyaudeaskedpermissionoftheofficertodresshimself，whichbeinggranted，hewentintoaninnerapartment，andtheofficerorderedhismentopiletheirarmsAdrumofwarbegantobeatanotewhichiswellknowntotheinhabitants。
Someofthesoldierstookthealarmonhearingthisnote，buttheofficer，disregardingtheirwarning，was，withhiswholeparty，inafewminutesdisarmedandboundhandandfootThecommandantofTetethenarmedthewholebodyofslavesandmarchedagainstthestockadeofNyaude，butwhentheycameneartoittherewastheLuenyastilltocross。
Astheydidnoteffectthisspeedily，NyaudedispatchedastrongpartyunderhissonBongaacrosstheriverbelowthestockade，anduptheleftbankoftheZambesiuntiltheycameneartoTete。
TheythenattackedTete，whichwaswhollyundefendedsavebyafewsoldiersinthefort，plunderedandburnedthewholetownexceptthehouseofthecommandantandafewothers，withthechurchandfort。
Thewomenandchildrenfledintothechurch；anditisaremarkablefactthatnoneofthenativesofthisregionwilleverattackachurch。
HavingrenderedTetearuin，BongacarriedoffallthecattleandplundertohisfatherNewsofthishavingbeenbroughttothearmybeforethestockade，asuddenpanicdispersedthewhole；
andasthefugitivestookroundaboutwaysintheirflight，Katolosa，whohadhithertopretendedtobefriendlywiththePortuguese，sentouthismentocaptureasmanyofthemastheycould。
TheykilledmanyforthesakeoftheirarmsThisistheaccountwhichbothnativesandPortuguesegiveoftheaffair。
Anotherhalf-castefromMacao，calledKisakaorChoutama，ontheoppositebankoftheriver，likewiserebelledHisfatherhavingdied，heimaginedthathehadbeenbewitchedbythePortuguese，andhethereforeplunderedandburnedalltheplantationsoftherichmerchantsofTeteonthenorthbankAsIhavebeforeremarked，thatbankisthemostfertile，andtherethePortuguesehadtheirvillasandplantationstowhichtheydailyretiredfromTeteWhentheseweredestroyedtheTetepeoplewerecompletelyimpoverishedAnattemptwasmadetopunishthisrebel，butitwasalsounsuccessful，andhehaslatelybeenpardonedbythehomegovernmentOnepointinthenarrativeofthisexpeditionisinterestingTheycametoafieldofsugar-canesolargethat4000meneatingitduringtwodaysdidnotfinishthewhole。
ThePortuguesewerethusplacedbetweentwoenemies，NyaudeontherightbankandKisakaontheleft，andnotonlyso，butNyaude，havingplacedhisstockadeonthepointoflandontherightbanksofboththeLuenyaandZambesi，andwashedbyboththeserivers，couldpreventintercoursewiththesea。
TheLuenyarushesintotheZambesiwithgreatforcewhenthelatterislow，and，incominguptheZambesi，boatsmustcrossitandtheLuenyaseparately，evengoingalittlewayupthatriver，soasnottobedrivenawaybyitscurrentinthebedoftheZambesi，anddashedontherockwhichstandsontheoppositeshoreIncominguptotheLuenyaforthispurpose，allboatsandcanoescameclosetothestockadetoberobbed。
NyaudekeptthePortugueseshutupintheirfortatTeteduringtwoyears，andtheycouldonlygetgoodssufficienttobuyfoodbysendingtoKilimanebyanoverlandroutealongthenorthbankoftheZambesi。
Themothercountrydidnotinthese“Caffrewars“paythebills，sonooneeitherbecamerichorblamedthemissionaries。
Themerchantswereunabletoengageintrade，andcommerce，whichtheslave-tradehadrenderedstagnant，wasnowcompletelyobstructed。
ThepresentcommandantofTete，MajorSicard，havinggreatinfluenceamongthenatives，fromhisgoodcharacter，putastoptothewarmorethanoncebyhismerepresenceonthespotWeheardofhimamongtheBanyaiasamanwithwhomtheywouldneverfight，because“hehadagoodheart。”HadIcomedowntothiscoastinsteadofgoingtoLoandain1853，Ishouldhavecomeamongthebelligerentswhilethewarwasstillraging，andshouldprobablyhavebeencutoff。
Mypresentapproachwasjustattheconclusionofthepeace；
andwhenthePortugueseauthoritiesherewereinformed，throughthekindofficesofLordClarendonandCountdeLavradio，thatIwasexpectedtocomethisway，theyalldeclaredthatsuchwastheexistingstateofaffairsthatnoEuropeancouldpossiblypassthroughthetribesSomenativesatlastcamedowntherivertoTeteandsaid，alludingtothesextantandartificialhorizon，that“theSonofGodhadcome。”
andthathewas“abletotakethesundownfromtheheavensandplaceitunderhisarm！”MajorSicardthenfeltsurethatthiswasthemanmentionedinLordClarendon’sdispatch。
OnmentioningtothecommandantthatIhaddiscoveredasmallseamofcoal，hestatedthatthePortuguesewerealreadyawareofninesuchseams，andthatfiveofthemwereontheoppositebankoftheriver。
AssoonasIhadrecoveredfrommyfatigueIwenttoexaminethem。
WeproceededinaboattothemouthoftheLofubuorRevubu，whichisabouttwomilesbelowTete，andontheoppositeornorthernbank。
Ascendingthisaboutfourmilesagainstastrongcurrentofbeautifullyclearwater，welandednearasmallcataract，andwalkedabouttwomilesthroughveryfertilegardenstotheseam，whichwefoundtobeinoneofthefeedersoftheLofubu，calledMuatizeorMotizeTheseamisintheperpendicularbank，anddipsintotherivulet，orinanortherlydirection。
Thereis，firstofall，aseam10inchesindiameter，thensomeshale，belowwhichthereisanotherseam，58inchesofwhichareseen，and，asthebottomtouchesthewateroftheMuatize，itmaybemore。
Thispartoftheseamisabout30yardslongThereisthenafault。
About100yardshigherupthestreamblackvesiculartrapisseen，penetratinginthinveinstheclayshaleofthecountry，convertingitintoporcellanite，andpartiallycrystallizingthecoalwithwhichitcameintocontactOntherightbankoftheLofubuthereisanotherfeederenteringthatrivernearitsconfluencewiththeMuatize，whichiscalledtheMorongozi，inwhichthereisanotherandstilllargerbedofcoalexposed。
FartheruptheLofubuthereareotherseamsintherivuletsInyavuandMakare；
alsoseveralspotsintheMaravicountryhavethecoalcroppingout。
Thishasevidentlybeenbroughttothesurfacebyvolcanicactionatalaterperiodthanthecoalformation。
IalsowentuptheZambesi，andvisitedahotspringcalledNyamboronda，situatedinthebedofasmallrivuletnamedNyaondo，whichshowsthatigneousactionisnotyetextinctWelandedatasmallrivuletcalledMokorozi，thenwentamileortwototheeastward，wherewefoundahotfountainatthebottomofahighhill。
AlittlespringbubblesupononesideoftherivuletNyaondo，andagreatquantityofacridsteamrisesupfromthegroundadjacent，about12feetsquareofwhichissohotthatmycompanionscouldnotstandonitwiththeirbarefeetThereareseverallittleholesfromwhichthewatertrickles，buttheprincipalspringisinaholeafootindiameter，andaboutthesameindepthNumbersofbubblesareconstantlyrising。
Thesteamfeelsacridinthethroat，butisnotinflammable，asitdidnotburnwhenIheldabunchoflightedgrassoverthebubbles。
Themercuryrisesto158Degwhenthethermometerisputintothewaterinthehole，butafterafewsecondsitstandssteadilyat160Deg。
Evenwhenflowingoverthestonesthewateristoohotforthehand。
Littlefishfrequentlyleapoutofthestreaminthebedofwhichthefountainrises，intothehotwater，andgetscaldedtodeath。
Wesawafrogwhichhadperformedtheexperiment，andwasnowcooked。
Thestonesoverwhichthewaterflowsareincrustedwithawhitesalt，andthewaterhasasalinetasteThegroundhasbeendugoutnearthefountainbythenatives，inordertoextractthesaltitcontains。
Itissituatedamongrocksofsyeniticporphyryinbroaddikes，andgneisstiltedonedge，andhavingastriketotheN。E。
Therearemanyspecimensofhalf-formedpumice，withgreenstoneandlava。
Someofthesandstonestrataaredislocatedbyahornblenderockandbybasalt，thesandstonenearesttothebasaltbeingconvertedintoquartz。
Thecountryaround，asindeedallthedistrictlyingNandN。WofTete，ishilly，and，thehillsbeingcoveredwithtrees，thesceneryisverypicturesqueThesoilofthevalleysisveryfruitfulandwellcultivatedTherewouldnotbemuchdifficultyinworkingthecoal。
TheLofubuisabout60yardsbroad；itflowsperennially，andatitsverylowestperiod，whichisafterSeptember，thereiswaterabout18inchesdeep，whichcouldbenavigatedinflat-bottomedboatsAtthetimeofmyvisititwasfull，andthecurrentwasverystrongIfthesmallcataractreferredtoweretobeavoided，theland-carriagebeyondwouldonlybeabouttwomiles。
Theotherseamsfartheruptherivermay，afterpassingthecataract，beapproachedmoreeasilythanthatintheMuatize；astheseam，however，dipsdownintothestream，nodrainageoftheminewouldberequired，forifwaterwerecometoitwouldrunintothestream。
Ididnotvisittheothers，butIwasinformedthatthereareseamsintheindependentnativeterritoryaswellasinthatofthePortuguese。
ThatintheNakeisintheBanyaicountry，and，indeed，IhavenodoubtbutthatthewholecountrybetweenZumboandLupataisacoal-fieldofatleast2-1/2Degoflatitudeinbreadth，havingmanyfaults，madeduringthetimeoftheigneousaction。
ThegraysandstonerockhavingsilicifiedtreeslyingonitisofthesedimensionsTheplantationinwhichtheseamofcoalexistswouldbevaluedamongthePortugueseatabout60dollarsor12Pounds，butmuchmorewouldprobablybeaskedifawealthypurchaserappeared。
Theycouldnot，however，raisethepriceverymuchhigher，becauseestatescontainingcoalmightbehadfromthenativeownersatamuchcheaperrateThewagesoffreelaborers，whenemployedinsuchworkasgold-washing，agriculture，ordiggingcoal，is2yardsofunbleachedcalicoperdayTheymightbegottoworkcheaperifengagedbythemoon，orforabout16yardspermonth。
Formasonsandcarpenterseven，theordinaryrateis2yardsperday。
Thisiscalled1bracaTradesmenfromKilimanedemand4bracas，or8yards，perdayEnglishorAmericanunbleachedcalicoistheonlycurrencyusedThecarriageofgoodsuptherivertoTeteaddsabout10percenttotheircostTheusualconveyanceisbymeansofverylargecanoesandlaunchesbuiltatSenna。
Theamountofmerchandisebroughtupduringthefivemonthsofpeaceprevioustomyvisitwasofthevalueof30，000dollars，orabout6000Pounds。
Theannualsupplyofgoodsfortradeisabout15，000Pounds，beingcalico，thickbrasswire，beads，gunpowder，andguns。
Thequantityofthelatteris，however，small，asthegovernmentofMozambiquemadethatarticlecontrabandafterthecommencementofthewar。
Goods，whentradedwithinthetribesaroundthePortuguese，produceaprofitofonlyabout10percent。，thearticlestradedinbeingivoryandgold-dustAlittleoilandwheatareexported，butnothingelse。
Tradewiththetribesbeyondtheexclusiveonesismuchbetter。
Thirtybrassringscost10satSenna，1PoundatTete，and2PoundsbeyondthetribesinthevicinityofTete；theseareagoodpriceforapenfulofgold-dustofthevalueof2PoundsTheplantationsofcoffee，which，previoustothecommencementoftheslave-trade，yieldedonematerialforexportation，arenowdeserted，anditisdifficulttofindasingletree。
Theindigo`Indigoferaargentea’，thecommonwildindigoofAfrica
isfoundgrowingeverywhere，andlargequantitiesofthesenna-plant*
growinthevillageofTeteandotherparts，butneitherindigonorsennaiscollectedCalumba-root，whichisfoundinabundanceinsomepartsfartherdowntheriver，isboughtbytheAmericans，itissaid，touseasadye-stuffAkindofsarsaparilla，oraplantwhichisbelievedbythePortuguesetobesuch，isfoundfromLondatoSenna，buthasneverbeenexported。
*Theseappeartobelongto`Cassiaacutifolia’，ortruesennaofcommerce，foundinvariouspartsofAfricaandIndiaDrHooker。