AgreatmanyoftheBanyaiareofalightcoffee-and-milkcolor,and,indeed,thiscolorisconsideredhandsomethroughoutthewholecountry,afaircomplexionbeingasmuchatestofbeautywiththemaswithus。
Astheydrawouttheirhairintosmallcordsafootinlength,andentwinetheinnerbarkofacertaintreeroundeachseparatecord,anddyethissubstanceofareddishcolor,manyofthemputmeinmindoftheancientEgyptiansThegreatmassofdressedhairwhichtheypossessreachestotheshoulders,butwhentheyintendtotraveltheydrawituptoabunch,andtieitonthetopofthehead。
Theyarecleanlyintheirhabits。
Aswedidnotcomenearhumanhabitations,andcouldonlytakeshortstagesonaccountoftheillnessofoneofmymen,Ihadanopportunityofobservingtheexpedientsmypartyresortedtoinordertosupplytheirwants。
Largewhiteediblemushroomsarefoundontheant-hills,andareverygood。
Themokuri,atuberwhichaboundsintheMopanecountry,theydiscoveredbypercussingthegroundwithstones;andanothertuber,aboutthesizeofaturnip,called“bonga“,isfoundinthesamesituations。
Itdoesnotdeterminetothejointslikethemokuri,andinwinterhasasensibleamountofsaltinitAfruitcalled“ndongo“bytheMakololo,“dongolo“bytheBambiri,resemblesinappearanceasmallplum,whichbecomesblackwhenripe,andisgoodfood,astheseedsaresmall。
Manytreesareknownbytradition,andonereceivescuriousbitsofinformationinaskingaboutdifferentfruitsthataremetwith。
Atreenamed“shekabakadzi“issuperiortoallothersformakingfirebyfrictionAsitsnameimplies,womenmayevenreadilymakefirebyitwhenbenighted。
Thecountryhereiscoveredoverwithwell-roundedshingleandgravelofgranite,gneisswithmuchtalcinit,micaschist,andotherrockswhichwesaw`insitu’betweentheKafueandLoangwaTherearegreatmoundsofsoftredsandslightlycoherent,whichcrumbleinthehandwitheaseThegravelandthesanddrainawaythewatersoeffectuallythatthetreesareexposedtotheheatduringaportionoftheyearwithoutanymoisture;hencetheyarenotlarge,likethoseontheZambesi,andareoftenscrubbyTheriversareallofthesandykind,andwepassoverlargepatchesbetweenthisandTeteinwhich,inthedryseason,nowateristobefoundCloseonoursouth,thehillsofLokolerisetoaconsiderableheight,andbeyondthemflowstheMazoewithitsgoldensandsThegreatnumbersofpot-holesonthesidesofsandstoneridges,whenviewedinconnectionwiththelargebanksofrolledshingleandwashedsandwhicharemetwithonthissideoftheeasternridge,mayindicatethattheseainformertimesrolleditswavesalongitsflanksManyofthehillsbetweentheKafueandLoangwahavetheirsidesoftheformseeninmudbanksleftbythetideThepot-holesappearmostabundantonlowgraysandstoneridgeshere;andastheshingleiscomposedofthesamerocksasthehillswestofZumbo,itlooksasifacurrenthaddashedalongfromthesoutheastinthelineinwhichthepot-holesnowappear;andifthecurrentwasdeflectedbythosehillstowardtheMaravicountry,northofTete,itmayhavehollowedtherounded,water-worncavernsinwhichthesepeoplestoretheircorn,andalsohidethemselvesfromtheirenemies。
Icoulddetectnoterracesontheland,but,ifIamrightinmysupposition,theformofthispartofthecontinentmustoncehaveresembledthecurvesorindentationsseenonthesouthernextremityoftheAmericancontinent。
IntheindentationtotheS。E。,S。,S。W。,andWofthis,lietheprincipalgold-washings;andthelineofthecurrent,supposingittohavestruckagainstthehillsofMburuma,showsthewashingsintheNandN。EofTete。
Weweretolerablysuccessfulinavoidingthevillages,andsleptonenightontheflanksofthehillZimika,whereagreatnumberofdeeppot-holesaffordedanabundantsupplyofgoodrain-waterHere,forthefirsttime,wesawhillswithbare,smooth,rockytops,andwecrossedoverbroaddikesofgneissandsyeniticporphyry:thedirectionsinwhichtheylaywereNandSAswewerenowneartoTete,wewerecongratulatingourselvesonhavingavoidedthosewhowouldonlyhaveplaguedus;butnextmorningsomemensawus,andranofftoinformtheneighboringvillagesofourpassingApartyimmediatelypursuedus,and,astheyknewwewerewithincallofKatolosaMonomotapa,theythreatenedtosendinformationtothatchiefofouroffense,inpassingthroughthecountrywithoutleaveWewereobligedtogivethemtwosmalltusks;for,hadtheytoldKatolosaofoursupposedoffense,weshould,inallprobability,havelostthewholeWethenwentthroughaveryrough,stonycountrywithoutanypathBeingprettywelltiredoutintheeveningofthe2dofMarch,IremainedatabouteightmilesdistancefromTete,Tette,orNyungweMymenaskedmetogoon;
Ifelttoofatiguedtoproceed,butsentforwardtothecommandantthelettersofrecommendationwithwhichIhadbeenfavoredinAngolabythebishopandothers,andlaydowntorestOurfoodhavingbeenexhausted,mymenhadbeensubsistingforsometimeonrootsandhoney。
Abouttwoo’clockinthemorningofthe3dwewerearousedbytwoofficersandacompanyofsoldiers,whohadbeensentwiththematerialsforacivilizedbreakfastanda“masheela“tobringmetoTete。
Commandant’shouse:lat16d9’3“S。,long33d28’E。
Mycompanionsthoughtthatwewerecapturedbythearmedmen,andcalledmeinalarmWhenIunderstoodtheerrandonwhichtheyhadcome,andhadpartakenofagoodbreakfast,thoughIhadjustbeforebeentootiredtosleep,allmyfatiguevanishedItwasthemostrefreshingbreakfastIeverpartookof,andIwalkedthelasteightmileswithouttheleastfeelingofweariness,althoughthepathwassoroughthatoneoftheofficersremarkedtome,“Thisisenoughtotearaman’slifeoutofhim。”
ThepleasureexperiencedinpartakingofthatbreakfastwasonlyequaledbytheenjoymentofMrGabriel’sbedonmyarrivalatLoanda。
ItwasalsoenhancedbythenewsthatSebastopolhadfallenandthewarwasfinished。
NoteHavingneglected,inreferringtothefootprintsoftherhinoceros,tomentionwhatmaybeinterestingtonaturalists,Iaddithereinanote;
thatwhereverthefootprintsareseen,therearealsomarksoftheanimalhavingplowedupthegroundandbusheswithhishornThishasbeensupposedtoindicatethatheissubjectto“fitsofungovernablerage“;
but,whenseen,heappearsrathertoberejoicinginhisstrength。
Heactsasabullsometimesdoeswhenhegorestheearthwithhishorns。
Therhinoceros,inadditiontothis,standsonaclumpofbushes,bendshisbackdown,andscrapesthegroundwithhisfeet,throwingitoutbackward,asiftostretchandcleanhistoes,inthesamewaythatadogmaybeseentodoonalittlegrass:
thisiscertainlynotrage。
Chapter31。
KindReceptionfromtheCommandantHisGenerositytomyMen
TheVillageofTeteThePopulationDistilledSpirits
TheFortCauseoftheDecadenceofPortuguesePower
FormerTradeSlavesemployedinGold-washingSlave-tradedrainedtheCountryofLaborersTheRebelNyaude’sStockadeHeburnsTete
Kisaka’sRevoltandRavagesExtensiveFieldofSugar-cane
TheCommandant’sgoodReputationamongtheNatives
ProvidentialGuidanceSeamsofCoalAhotSpring
PicturesqueCountryWater-carriagetotheCoal-fields
Workmen’sWagesExportsPriceofProvisionsVisitGold-washings
TheProcessofobtainingthepreciousMetalCoalwithinaGold-field
PresentfromMajorSicardNativesraiseWheat,etc
LiberalityoftheCommandantGeographicalInformationfromSenhorCandidoEarthquakesNativeIdeasofaSupremeBeing
AlsooftheImmortalityandTransmigrationofSoulsFondnessforDisplayatFuneralsTradeRestrictionsFormerJesuitEstablishment
StateofReligionandEducationatTeteInundationoftheZambesi
CottoncultivatedThefibrousPlantsCongeandBuaze
DetainedbyFeverTheKumbanzoBarkNativeMedicinesIron,itsQualityHearofFamineatKilimaneDeathofaPortugueseLady
TheFuneralDisinterestedKindnessofthePortuguese。
IwasmostkindlyreceivedbythecommandantTitoAugustod’AraujoSicard,whodideverythinginhispowertorestoremefrommyemaciatedcondition;
and,asthiswasstilltheunhealthyperiodatKilimane,headvisedmetoremainwithhimuntilthefollowingmonth。
Healsogenerouslypresentedmymenwithabundantprovisionsofmillet;
and,bygivingthemlodgingsinahouseofhisownuntiltheycoulderecttheirownhuts,hepreservedthemfromthebiteofthetampans,herenamedCarapatos。*WehadheardfrightfulaccountsofthisinsectwhileamongtheBanyai,andMajorSicardassuredmethattostrangersitsbiteismoreespeciallydangerous,asitsometimescausesfatalfever。
Itmaypleaseourhomoeopathicfriendstohearthat,incuringthebiteofthetampan,thenativesadministeroneoftheinsectsbruisedinthemedicineemployed。
*Anotherinsect,resemblingamaggot,burrowsintothefeetofthenativesandsuckstheirbloodMrWestwoodsays,“Thetampanisalargespeciesofmite,closelyalliedtothepoisonousbugasitiscalledofPersia,`Argosreflexus’,respectingwhichsuchmarvelousaccountshavebeenrecorded,andwhichthestatementrespectingthecarapatoortampanwouldpartiallyconfirm。”
MrWalsothinksthatthepoison-yieldinglarvacalledN’gwaisa“speciesofchrysomelidaeThelarvaeoftheBritishspeciesofthatfamilyexudeafetidyellowthickishfluidwhenalarmed,buthehasnotheardthatanyofthemareatallpoisonous。”
ThevillageofTeteisbuiltonalongslopedowntotheriver,thefortbeingclosetothewaterTherockbeneathisgraysandstone,andhastheappearanceofbeingcrushedawayfromtheriver:
thestratahavethusacrumpledformThehollowbetweeneachcreaseisastreet,thehousesbeingbuiltupontheprojectingfold。
Therocksatthetopoftheslopearemuchhigherthanthefort,andofcoursecompletelycommanditThereisthenalargevalley,andbeyondthatanoblonghillcalledKarueiraThewholeoftheadjacentcountryisrockyandbroken,buteveryavailablespotisundercultivation。
ThestonehousesinTetearecementedwithmudinsteadoflime,andthatchedwithreedsandgrassTherains,havingwashedoutthemudbetweenthestones,giveallthehousesarough,untidyappearance。
NolimewasknowntobefoundnearerthanMozambique;someusedinmakingseatsintheverandashadactuallybeenbroughtallthatdistance。
ThePortugueseevidentlyknewnothingofthepinkandwhitemarbleswhichIfoundattheMbai,andanotherrivulet,namedtheUnguesi,nearit,andofwhichIbroughthomespecimens,noryetofthedolomitewhichliessoneartoZumbo:theymighthaveburnedthemarbleintolimewithoutgoingsofarasMozambiqueThereareaboutthirtyEuropeanhouses;
therestarenative,andofwattleanddaubAwallabouttenfeethighisintendedtoinclosethevillage,butmostofthenativeinhabitantsprefertoliveondifferentspotsoutsideThereareabouttwelvehundredhutsinall,whichwithEuropeanhouseholdswouldgiveapopulationofaboutfourthousandfivehundredsouls。
Onlyasmallproportionofthese,however,liveonthespot;
themajorityareengagedinagriculturaloperationsintheadjacentcountry。
Generallytherearenotmorethantwothousandpeopleresident,for,comparedwithwhatitwas,TeteisnowaruinThenumberofPortugueseisverysmall;ifweexcludethemilitary,itisundertwenty。
Lately,however,onehundredandfivesoldiersweresentfromPortugaltoSenna,whereinoneyeartwenty-fivewerecutoffbyfever。
TheywerethenremovedtoTete,andheretheyenjoymuchbetterhealth,though,fromtheabundanceofspiritsdistilledfromvariousplants,wildfruits,andgrain,inwhichperniciousbeveragetheylargelyindulge,besidespartakingchieflyofunwholesomenativefood,betterhealthcouldscarcelyhavebeenexpectedThenativeshereunderstandthemethodofdistillationbymeansofgun-barrels,andasuccessionofearthenpotsfilledwithwatertokeepthemcoolThegeneralreportofthefeverhereisthat,whileatKilimanethefeveriscontinuous,atTeteamanrecoversinaboutthreedaysThemildestremediesonlyareusedatfirst,and,ifthatperiodbepassed,thenthemoresevere。
ThefortofTetehasbeenthesalvationofthePortuguesepowerinthisquarterItisasmallsquarebuilding,withathatchedapartmentfortheresidenceofthetroops;and,thoughtherearebutfewguns,theyareinamuchbetterstatethanthoseofanyfortintheinteriorofAngola。