ThissamedayGeneralFairfaxsentinatrumpettoproposeexchangingprisoners,whichtheLordGoringrejected,expectingareinforcementoftroops,whichwereactuallycomingtohim,andweretobeatLintoninCambridgeshireasthenextday。
Thesamedaytwoshipsbroughtinaquantityofcornandprovisionsandfifty-sixmenfromtheshoreofKentwithseveralgentlemen,whoalllandedandcameuptothetown,andthegreatestpartofthecornwaswiththeutmostapplicationunloadedthesamenightintosomehoys,whichbroughtituptotheHythe,beingapprehensiveoftheParliament'sshipswhichlayatHarwich,whohavingintelligenceofthesaidships,camethenextdayintothemouthoftheriver,andtookthesaidtwoshipsandwhatcornwasleftinthem。Thebesiegedsentoutapartytohelptheships,buthavingnoboatstheycouldnotassistthem。
18th。SirCharlesLucassentanansweraboutexchangeofprisoners,acceptingtheconditionsoffered,buttheParliament'sgeneralreturnedthathewouldnottreatwithSirCharles,forthatheSirCharlesbeinghisprisoneruponhisparoleofhonour,andhavingappearedinarmscontrarytotherulesofwar,hadforfeitedhishonourandfaith,andwasnotcapableofcommandortrustinmartialaffairs。TothisSirCharlessentbackananswer,andhisexcuseforhisbreachofhisparole,butitwasnotaccepted,norwouldtheLordFairfaxenteruponanytreatywithhim。
UponthissecondmessageSirWilliamMashamandtheParliamentCommitteeandothergentlemen,whowereprisonersinthetown,sentamessageinwritingundertheirhandstotheLordFairfax,entreatinghimtoenterintoatreatyforpeace;buttheLordFairfaxreturned,hecouldtakenonoticeoftheirrequest,assupposingitforcedfromthemunderrestraint;butthatiftheLordGoringdesiredpeace,hemightwritetotheParliament,andhewouldcausehismessengertohaveasafeconducttocarryhisletter。Therewasapapersentenclosedinthispaper,signedCapel,Norwich,CharlesLucas,buttothatthegeneralwouldreturnnoanswer,becauseitwassignedbySirCharlesforthereasonsabove。
AllthiswhiletheLordGoring,findingtheenemystrengtheningthemselves,gaveorderforfortifyingthetown,anddrawinglinesinseveralplacestosecuretheentrance,asparticularlywithouttheeastbridge,andwithoutthenorthgateandbridge,andtoplantmorecannonupontheworks;towhichendsomegreatgunswerebroughtinfromsomeshipsatWivenhoe。
Thesameday,ourmensalliedoutinthreeplaces,andattackedthebesiegers,firstattheirport,calledEssex,thenattheirnewworks,onthesouthofthetown;athirdpartysallyingattheeastbridge,broughtinsomebootyfromtheSuffolktroops,havingkilledseveraloftheirstragglersontheHarwichroad。Theyalsotookalieutenantofhorseprisoner,andbroughthimintothetown。
19th。ThisdaywehadtheunwelcomenewsthatourfriendsatLintonweredefeatedbytheenemy,andMajorMuschamp,aloyalgentleman,killed。
Thesamenight,ourmengavetheenemyalarmattheirnewEssexfort,andtherebydrewthemoutasiftheywouldfight,tilltheybroughtthemwithinreachofthecannonofSt。Mary's,andthenourmenretiring,thegreatgunsletflyamongthem,andmadethemrun。
Ourmenshoutedafterthem。Severalofthemwerekilledonthisoccasion,oneshothavingkilledthreehorsemeninourfight。
20th。Wenowfoundtheenemy,inordertoaperfectblockade,resolvedtodrawalineofcircumvallationroundthetown;havingreceivedatrainoffortypiecesofheavycannonfromtheTowerofLondon。
ThisdaytheParliamentsentamessengertotheirprisonerstoknowhowtheyfared,andhowtheywereused;whoreturnedword,thattheyfaredindifferentwell,andwereverycivillyused,butthatprovisionswerescarce,andthereforedear。
Thisdayapartyofhorse,with300foot,salliedout,andmarchedasfarasthefortontheIsleofMersey,whichtheymadeashowofattacking,tokeepinthegarrison。Meanwhiletheresttookagoodnumberofcattlefromthecountry,whichtheybroughtsafeintothetown,withfivewaggonsladenwithcorn。Thiswasthelasttheycouldbringinthatway,thelinesbeingsoonfinishedonthatside。
ThisdaytheLordFairfaxsentinatrumpettotheEarlofNorwichandtheLordGoring,offeringhonourableconditionstothemall,allowingallthegentlementheirlivesandarms,exemptionfromplunder,andpasses,iftheydesiredtogobeyondsea,andalltheprivatemenpardon,andleavetogopeaceablytotheirowndwellings。ButtheLordGoringandtherestofthegentlemenrejectedit,andlaughedatthem,uponwhichtheLordFairfaxmadeproclamation,thathismenshouldgivetheprivatesoldiersinColchesterfreeleavetopassthroughtheircamp,andgowheretheypleasedwithoutmolestation,onlyleavingtheirarms,butthatthegentlemenshouldhavenoquarter。ThiswasagreatlosstotheRoyalists,fornowthemenforeseeingthegreathardshipstheywereliketosuffer,begantoslipaway,andtheLordGoringwasobligedtoforbidanytodesertonpainofpresentdeath,andtokeeppartiesofhorsecontinuallypatrollingtopreventthem;
notwithstandingwhichmanygotaway。
21st。ThetowndesiredtheLordGoringtogivethemleavetosendamessagetoLordFairfax,todesiretheymighthavelibertytocarryontheirtradeandselltheirbaysandsays,whichLordGoringgranted;buttheenemy'sgeneralreturned,thattheyshouldhaveconsideredthatbeforetheylettheRoyalistsintothetown;
thattodesireafreetradefromatownbesiegedwasneverheardof,oratleast,wassuchamotion,aswasneveryetgranted;that,however,hewouldgivethebay-makersleavetobringtheirbaysandsays,andothergoods,onceaweek,oroftener,iftheydesireit,toLexdenHeath,wheretheyshouldhaveafreemarket,andmightsellthemorcarrythembackagain,ifnotsold,astheyfoundoccasion。
22nd。Thebesiegedsalliedoutinthenightwithastrongparty,anddisturbedtheenemyintheirworks,andpartlyruinedoneoftheirforts,calledEwer'sFort,wherethebesiegerswerelayingabridgeovertheRiverColne。Alsotheysalliedagainateastbridge,andfacedtheSuffolktroops,whowerenowdeclaredenemies。Thesebroughtinsix-and-fiftygoodbullocks,andsomecows,andtheytookandkilledseveraloftheenemy。
23rd。ThebesiegersbegantofirewiththeircannonfromEssexFort,andfromBarkstead'sFort,whichwasbuiltupontheMaldenroad;andfindingthatthebesiegedhadapartyinSirHarbottleGrimston'shouse,called,"TheFryery,"theyfiredatitwiththeircannon,andbattereditalmostdown,andthenthesoldierssetitonfire。
Thisdayuponthetownsmen'streatyforthefreedomofthebaytrade,theLordFairfaxsentasecondofferofconditionstothebesieged,beingthesameasbefore,onlyexceptingLordGoring,LordCapel,SirGeorgeLisle,andSirCharlesLucas。
ThisdaywehadnewsinthetownthattheSuffolkforceswereadvancedtoassistthebesiegers,andthattheybeganafortcalledFortSuffolk,onthenorthsideofthetown,toshutuptheSuffolkroadtowardsStratford。Thisdaythebesiegedsalliedoutatnorthbridge,attackedtheout-guardsoftheSuffolkmenonMileEndHeath,anddrovethemintotheirfortinthewoods。
ThisdaytheLordFairfaxsentatrumpet,complainingofchewedandpoisonedbulletsbeingshotfromthetown,andthreateningtogivenoquarterifthatpracticewasallowed;butLordGoringreturnedanswer,withaprotestation,thatnosuchthingwasdonebyhisorderorconsent。
24th。TheyfiredhardfromtheircannonagainstSt。Mary'ssteeple,onwhichwasplantedalargeculverin,whichannoyedthemeveninthegeneral'sheadquartersatLexden。Oneofthebestgunnersthegarrisonhadwaskilledwithacannonbullet。ThisnightthebesiegedsalliedtowardsAudly,ontheSuffolkroad,andbroughtinsomecattle。
25th。LordCapelsentatrumpettotheParliament-General,buttherogueranaway,andcamenotback,norsentanyanswer;whethertheyreceivedhismessageornot,wasnotknown。
26th。Thisdayhavingfinishedtheirnewbridge,apartyoftheirtroopspassedthatbridge,andtookpostonthehilloveragainstMileEndChurch,wheretheybuiltafort,calledFothergall'sFort,andanotherontheeastsideoftheroad,calledRainsbro'sFort,sothatthetownwasentirelyshutin,onthatside,andtheRoyalistshadnoplacefreebutovereastbridge,whichwasafterwardscutoffbytheenemy'sbringingtheirlinefromtheHythewithintherivertothestonecausewayleadingtotheeastbridge。
July1st。Fromthe26thtothe1st,thebesiegerscontinuedfinishingtheirworks,andbythe2ndthewholetownwasshutin;
atwhichthebesiegersgaveageneralsalvofromtheircannonatalltheirforts;butthebesiegedgavethemareturn,fortheysalliedoutinthenight,attackedBarkstead'sfort,scarcefinished,withsuchfury,thattheytwiceenteredtheworkswordinhand,killedmostpartofthedefendants,andspoiledpartofthefortscastup;butfreshforcescomingup,theyretiredwithlittleloss,bringingeightprisoners,andhavingslain,astheyreported,above100。
Onthesecond,LordFairfaxofferedexchangeforSirWilliamMashaminparticular,andafterwardsforotherprisoners,buttheLordGoringrefused。
5th。Thebesiegedsalliedwithtworegiments,supportedbysomehorse,atmidnight;theywerecommandedbySirGeorgeLisle。Theyfellonwithsuchfury,thattheenemywereputintoconfusion,theirworksateastbridgeruined,andtwopiecesofcannontaken,LieutenantColonelSambrook,andseveralotherofficers,werekilled,andourmenretiredintothetown,bringingthecaptain,twolieutenants,andaboutfiftymenwiththemprisonersintothetown;buthavingnohorse,wecouldnotbringoffthecannon,buttheyspikedthem,andmadethemunfitforservice。
Fromthistimetothe11th,thebesiegedsalliedalmosteverynight,beingencouragedbytheirsuccesses,andtheyconstantlycutoffsomeoftheenemy,butnotwithoutlossalsoontheirownside。
Aboutthistimewereceivedbyaspythebadnewsofdefeatingtheking'sfriendsalmostinallpartsofEngland,andparticularlyseveralpartieswhichhadgoodwishestoourgentlemen,andintendedtorelievethem。
OurbatteriesfromSt。Mary'sFortandsteeple,andfromthenorthbridge,greatlyannoyedthem,andkilledmostoftheirgunnersandfiremen。OneofthemessengerswhobroughtnewstoLordFairfaxofthedefeatofoneoftheparties,inKent,andthetakingofWeymerCastle,slippedintothetown,andbroughtalettertotheLordGoring,andlistedintheregimentoftheLordCapel'shorse。
14th。ThebesiegersattackedandtooktheHytheChurch,withasmallworkthebesiegedhadthere,butthedefendersretiredintime;someweretakenprisonersinthechurch,butnotinthefort;
SirCharlesLucas'shorsewasattackedbyagreatbodyofthebesiegers;thebesiegeddefendedthemselveswithgoodresolutionforsometime,butahand-grenadethrowninbytheassailants,havingfiredthemagazine,thehousewasblownup,andmostofthegallantdefendersburiedintheruins。ThiswasagreatblowtotheRoyalists,foritwasaverystrongpass,andalwayswellguarded。
15th。TheLordFairfaxsentoffersofhonourableconditionstothesoldiersofthegarrisoniftheywouldsurrender,orquittheservice;uponwhichtheLordsGoringandCapel,andSirCharlesLucas,returnedananswersignedbytheirhands,thatitwasnothonourableoragreeabletotheusageofwartoofferconditionsseparatelytothesoldiers,exclusiveoftheirofficers,andthereforecivillydesiredhislordshiptosendnomoresuchmessagesorproposals,orifhedid,thathewouldnottakeitilliftheyhangedupthemessenger。
Thiseveningallthegentlemenvolunteers,withallthehorseofthegarrison,withSirCharlesLucas,SirGeorgeLisle,andSirBernardGascoigneattheheadofthem,resolvedtobreakthroughtheenemy,andforcingapasstoadvanceintoSuffolkbyNaylandBridge。TothispurposetheypassedtherivernearMiddleMill;
buttheirguideshavingmisledthemtheenemytookthealarm;uponwhichtheirguides,andsomepioneerswhichtheyhadwiththemtoopenthehedgesandlevelthebanks,fortheirpassingtoBoxted,allranaway,sothehorsewereobligedtoretreat,theenemypretendingtopursue,butthinkingtheyhadretreatedbythenorthbridge,theymissedthem;uponwhichbeingenraged,theyfiredthesuburbswithoutthebridge,andburnedthemquitedown。
18th。Someofthehorseattemptedtoescapethesameway,andhadthewholebodybeenthereasbefore,theyhadeffectedit;buttherebeingbuttwotroops,theywereobligedtoretire。Nowthetownbegantobegreatlydistressed,provisionsfailing,andthetownspeople,whichwerenumerous,beingveryuneasy,andnowayofbreakingthroughbeingfoundpracticable,thegentlemenwouldhavejoinedinanyattemptwhereintheymightdiegallantlywiththeirswordsintheirhands,butnothingpresented;theyoftensalliedandcutoffmanyoftheenemy,buttheirnumberswerecontinuallysupplied,andthebesiegeddiminished;theirhorsealsosunkandbecameunfitforservice,havingverylittlehay,andnocorn,andatlengththeywereforcedtokillthemforfood;sothattheybegantobeinaverymiserablecondition,andthesoldiersdesertedeverydayingreatnumbers,notbeingabletobearthewantoffood,asbeingalmoststarvedwithhunger。
22nd。TheLordFairfaxofferedagainanexchangeofprisoners,buttheLordGoringrejectedit,becausetheyrefusedconditionstothechiefgentlemenofthegarrison。
Duringthistime,twotroopsoftheRoyalHorsesalliedoutinthenight,resolvingtobreakoutordie:thefirstrodeupfullgalloptotheenemy'shorseguardsonthesideofMaldenroad,andexchangedtheirpistolswiththeadvancedtroops,andwheelingmadeasiftheywouldretiretothetown;butfindingtheywerenotimmediatelypursued,theywheeledabouttotheright,andpassinganotherguardatadistance,withoutbeingperfectlydiscovered,theywentcleanoff,andpassingtowardsTiptreeHeath,andhavinggoodguides,theymadetheirescapetowardsCambridgeshire,inwhichlengthofwaytheyfoundmeanstodispersewithoutbeingattacked,andwenteverymanhisownwayasfatedirected;nordidwehearthatmanyofthemweretaken:theywereled,asweareinformed,bySirBernardGascoigne。
Upontheseattemptsofthehorsetobreakout,theenemybuiltasmallfortinthemeadowrightagainstthefordintheriverattheMiddleMill,andoncesetthatmillonfire,butitwasextinguishedwithoutmuchdamage;however,thefortpreventedanymoreattemptsthatway。
22nd。TheParliament-Generalsentinatrumpet,toproposeagaintheexchangeofprisoners,offeringtheLordCapel'ssonforone,andMr。AshburnhamforSirWilliamMasham;buttheLordCapel,LordGoring,andtherestoftheloyalgentlemenrejectedit;andLordCapel,inparticular,senttheLordFairfaxworditwasinhumantosurprisehisson,whowasnotinarms,andofferhimtoinsultafather'saffection,butthathemightmurderhissonifhepleased,hewouldleavehisbloodtoberevengedasHeavenshouldgiveopportunity;andtheLordGoringsentword,thatastheyhadreducedtheking'sservantstoeathorseflesh,theprisonersshouldfeedastheyfed。
TheenemysentagaintocomplainoftheRoyalistsshootingpoisonedbullets,andsenttwoaffidavitsofitmadebytwodeserters,swearingitwasdonebytheLordNorwich'sdirection;thegeneralsinthetownreturnedunderalltheirhandsthattheynevergaveanysuchcommandordirection;thattheydisownedthepractice;andthatthefellowswhosworeitwereperjuredbeforeinrunningfromtheircoloursandtheserviceoftheirking,andoughtnottobecreditedagain;buttheyadded,thatforshootingrough-castslugstheymustexcusethem,asthingsstoodwiththematthattime。
Aboutthistime,aporterinasoldier'shabitgotthroughtheenemy'sleaguer,andpassingtheirout-guardsinthedark,gotintothetown,andbroughtlettersfromLondon,assuringtheRoyaliststhatthereweresomanystrongpartiesupinarmsfortheking,andinsomanyplaces,thattheywouldbeverysuddenlyrelieved。Thistheycausedtobereadtothesoldierstoencouragethem;andparticularlyitrelatedtotherisingoftheEarlofHolland,andtheDukeofBuckingham,whowith500horseweregottentogetherinarmsaboutKingstoninSurrey;butwehadnoticeinafewdaysafterthattheyweredefeated,andtheEarlofHollandtaken,whowasafterwardsbeheaded。
26th。Theenemynowbegantobatterthewalls,andespeciallyonthewestside,fromSt。Mary'stowardsthenorthgate;andwewereassuredtheyintendedastorm;onwhichtheengineersweredirectedtomaketrenchesbehindthewallswherethebreachesshouldbemade,thatincaseofastormtheymightmeetwithawarmreception。Uponthis,theygaveoverthedesignofstorming。TheLordGoringfindingthattheenemyhadsetthesuburbsonfirerightagainsttheHythe,orderedtheremaininghouses,whichwereemptyofinhabitants,fromwhencetheirmusketeerfiredagainstthetown,tobeburnedalso。
31st。Abodyoffootsalliedoutatmidnight,todiscoverwhattheenemyweredoingataplacewheretheythoughtanewfortraising;
theyfellinamongtheworkmen,andputthemtoflight,cutinpiecesseveraloftheguard,andbroughtintheofficerwhocommandedthemprisoner。
August2nd。Thetownwasnowinamiserablecondition:thesoldierssearchedandrifledthehousesoftheinhabitantsforvictuals;theyhadlivedonhorsefleshseveralweeks,andmostofthatalsowasasleanascarrion,whichnotbeingwellsaltedbredwens;andthiswantofdietmadethesoldierssickly,andmanydiedoffluxes,yettheyboldlyrejectedalloffersofsurrender,unlesswithsafetytotheiroffices。However,severalhundredsgotout,andeitherpassedtheenemy'sguards,orsurrenderedtothemandtookpasses。
7th。Thetownspeoplebecameveryuneasytothesoldiers,andthemayorofthetown,withthealdermen,waiteduponthegeneral,desiringleavetosendtotheLordFairfaxforleavetoalltheinhabitantstocomeoutofthetown,thattheymightnotperish,towhichtheLordGoringconsented,buttheLordFairfaxrefusedthem。
12th。TherabblegottogetherinavastcrowdabouttheLordGoring'squarters,clamouringforasurrender,andtheydidthiseveryevening,bringingwomenandchildren,wholayhowlingandcryingonthegroundforbread;thesoldiersbeatoffthemen,butthewomenandchildrenwouldnotstir,biddingthesoldierskillthem,sayingtheyhadratherbeshotthanbestarved。
16th。Thegeneral,movedbythecriesanddistressofthepoorinhabitants,sentoutatrumpettotheParliament-General,demandingleavetosendtothePrince,whowaswithafleetofnineteenmenofwarinthemouthoftheThames,offeringtosurrender,iftheywerenotrelievedintwentydays。TheLordFairfaxrefusedit,andsentthemwordhewouldbeinthetowninperson,andvisittheminlessthantwentydays,intimatingthattheywerepreparingforastorm。Sometartmessagesandanswerswereexchangedonthisoccasion。TheLordGoringsentwordtheywerewilling,incompassiontothepoortownspeople,andtosavethateffusionofblood,tosurrenderuponhonourableterms,butthatasforthestormingthem,whichwasthreatened,theymightcomeonwhentheythoughtfit,forthattheytheRoyalistswerereadyforthem。Thisheldtothe19th。
20th。TheLordFairfaxreturnedwhathesaidwashislastanswer,andshouldbethelastofferofmercy。Theconditionsofferedwere,thatuponapeaceablesurrender,allsoldiersandofficersunderthedegreeofacaptainincommissionshouldhavetheirlives,beexemptedfromplunder,andhavepassestogototheirrespectivedwellings。Allthecaptainsandsuperiorofficers,withallthelordsandgentlemen,aswellincommissionasvolunteers,tosurrenderprisonersatdiscretion,onlythattheyshouldnotbeplunderedbythesoldiers。
21st。Thegeneralsrejectedthoseoffers;andwhenthepeoplecameaboutthemagainforbread,setopenoneofthegates,andbidthemgoouttotheenemy,whichagreatmanydidwillingly;uponwhichtheLordGoringorderedalltherestthatcameabouthisdoortobeturnedoutafterthem。ButwhenthepeoplecametotheLordFairfax'scamptheout-guardswereorderedtofireatthemanddrivethemallbackagaintothegate,whichtheLordGoringseeing,heorderedthemtobereceivedinagain。Andnow,althoughthegeneralsandsoldiersalsowereresolutetodiewiththeirswordsintheirhandsratherthanyield,andhadmaturelyresolvedtoabideastorm,yettheMayorandAldermenhavingpetitionedthemaswellastheinhabitants,beingweariedwiththeimportunitiesofthedistressedpeople,andpityingthedeplorableconditiontheywerereducedto,theyagreedtoenteruponatreaty,andaccordinglysentoutsomeofficerstotheLordFairfax,theParliament-General,totreat,andwiththemwassenttwogentlemenoftheprisonersupontheirparoletoreturn。
UponthereturnofthesaidmessengerswiththeLordFairfax'sterms,theLordGoring,&c。,sentoutaletterdeclaringtheywoulddiewiththeirswordsintheirhandsratherthanyieldwithoutquarterforlife,andsentapaperofarticlesonwhichtheywerewillingtosurrender。ButintheveryinterimofthistreatynewscamethattheScotsarmy,underDukeHamilton,whichwasenteredintoLancashire,andwasjoinedbytheRoyalistsinthatcountry,making21,000men,wereentirelydefeated。AfterthistheLordFairfaxwouldnotgrantanyabatementofarticles-viz。,tohaveallabovelieutenantssurrenderatmercy。
UponthistheLordGoringandtheGeneralrefusedtosubmitagain,andproposedageneralsally,andtobreakthroughordie,butfounduponpreparingforitthatthesoldiers,whohadtheirlivesofferedthem,declinedit,fearingthegentlemenwouldescape,andtheyshouldbelefttothemercyoftheParliamentsoldiers;andthatuponthistheybegantomutinyandtalkofsurrenderingthetownandtheirofficerstoo。Thingsbeingbroughttothispass,theLordsandGenerallaidasidethatdesign,andfoundthemselvesobligedtosubmit;andsothetownwassurrenderedthe28thofAugust,1648,uponconditionsasfollows:-
TheLordsandgentlemenallprisonersatmercy。
Thecommonsoldiershadpassestogohometotheirseveraldwellings,butwithoutarms,andanoathnottoserveagainsttheParliament。
Thetowntobepreservedfrompillage,paying14,000poundsreadymoney。
Thesamedayacouncilofwarbeingcalledabouttheprisonersofwar,itwasresolvedthattheLordsshouldbelefttothedisposaloftheParliament。ThatSirCharlesLucas,SirGeorgeLisle,andSirMarmadukeGascoigneshouldbeshottodeath,andtheotherofficersprisonerstoremainincustodytillfurtherorder。
Thetwofirstofthethreegentlemenwereshottodeath,andthethirdrespited。ThusendedthesiegeofColchester。
N。B-Notwithstandingthenumberkilledinthesiege,anddeadoftheflux,andotherdistempersoccasionedbybaddiet,whichwereverymany,andnotwithstandingthenumberwhichdesertedandescapedinthetimeoftheirhardships,yetthereremainedatthetimeofthesurrender:
EarlofNorwichGoring。
LordCapell。
LordLoughbro'。
11Knights。
9Colonels。
8Lieut-Colonels。
9Majors。
30Captains。
72Lieutenants。
69Ensigns。
183SerjeantsandCorporals。
3,067PrivateSoldiers。
65ServantstotheLordsandGeneralOfficersandGentlemen。
3,526inall。
ThetownofColchesterhasbeensupposedtocontainabout40,000
people,includingtheout-villageswhicharewithinitsliberty,ofwhichthereareagreatmany-thelibertyofthetownbeingofagreatextent。Onesadtestimonyofthetownbeingsopopulousisthattheyburiedupwardsof5,259peopleintheplagueyear,1665。
Butthetownwasseverelyvisitedindeed,evenmoreinproportionthananyofitsneighbours,orthantheCityofLondon。
Thegovernmentofthetownisbyamayor,highsteward,arecorderorhisdeputy,elevenaldermen,achamberlain,atownclerk,assistants,andeighteencommoncouncilmen。Theirhighstewardthisyear,1722isSirIsaacRebow,agentlemanofagoodfamilyandknowncharacter,whohasgenerallyforabovethirtyyearsbeenoneoftheirrepresentativesinParliament。Hehasaverygoodhouseattheentranceinatthesouth,orheadgateofthetown,wherehehashadthehonourseveraltimestolodgeandentertainthelateKingWilliamofgloriousmemoryinhisreturningfromHollandbywayofHarwichtoLondon。TheirrecorderisEarlCowper,whohasbeentwiceLordHighChancellorofEngland。Buthislordshipnotresidinginthosepartshasputinforhisdeputy,-Price,Esq。,barrister-at-law,andwhodwellsinthetown。ThereareinColchestereightchurchesbesidesthosewhicharedamaged,andfivemeeting-houses,whereoftwoforQuakers,besidesaDutchchurchandaFrenchchurch。
PublicEdificesare-
1。BayHall,anancientsocietykeptupforascertainingthemanufactureofbays,whichare,oroughttobe,allbroughttothishalltobeviewedandsealedaccordingtotheirgoodnessbythemasters;andtothispracticehasbeenowingthegreatreputationoftheColchesterbaysinforeignmarkets,wheretoopenthesideofabaleandshowthesealhasbeenenoughtogivethebuyeracharacterofthevalueofthegoodswithoutanyfurthersearch;andsofarastheyabatetheintegrityandexactnessoftheirmethod,whichIamtoldoflateismuchomitted;Isay,sofar,thatreputationwillcertainlyabateinthemarketstheygoto,whichareprincipallyinPortugalandItaly。ThiscorporationisgovernedbyaparticularsetofmenwhoarecalledgovernorsoftheDutchBayHall。AndinthesamebuildingistheDutchchurch。
2。Theguildhallofthetown,calledbythemthemoothall,towhichisannexedthetowngaol。
3。Theworkhouse,beinglatelyenlarged,andtowhichbelongsacorporationorabodyoftheinhabitants,consistingofsixtypersonsincorporatedbyActofParliamentAnno1698fortakingcareofthepoor。Theyareincorporatedbythenameandtitleofthegovernor,deputygovernor,assistants,andguardiansofthepoorofthetownofColchester。Theyareinnumbereight-and-forty,towhomareaddedthemayorandaldermenforthetimebeing,whoarealwaysguardiansbythesamecharter。Thesemakethenumberofsixty,asabove。Thereisalsoagrammarfree-school,withagoodallowancetothemaster,whoischosenbythetown。
4。ThecastleofColchesterisnowbecomeonlyamonumentshowingtheantiquityoftheplace,itbeingbuiltasthewallsofthetownalsoare,withRomanbricks,andtheRomancoinsduguphere,andploughedupinthefieldsadjoining,confirmit。TheinhabitantsboastmuchthatHelena,themotherofConstantinetheGreat,firstChristianEmperoroftheRomans,wasbornthere,anditmaybesoforaughtweknow。IonlyobservewhatMr。CamdensaysoftheCastleofColchester,viz。:Inthemiddleofthiscitystandsacastlereadytofallwithage。
ThoughthiscastlehasstoodonehundredandtwentyyearsfromthetimeMr。Camdenwrotethataccount,anditisnotfallenyet,norwillanotherhundredandtwentyyears,Ibelieve,makeitlookonejottheolder。Anditwasobservablethatinthelatesiegeofthistown,acommonshot,whichthebesiegersmadeatthisoldcastle,weresofarfrommakingitfall,thattheymadelittleornoimpressionuponit;forwhichreason,itseems,andbecausethegarrisonmadenogreatuseofitagainstthebesiegers,theyfirednomoreatit。
Therearetwocharityschoolssetuphere,andcarriedonbyageneroussubscription,withverygoodsuccess。
ThetitleofColchesterisinthefamilyofEarlRivers,andtheeldestsonofthatfamilyiscalledLordColchester,thoughasI
understand,thetitleisnotsettledbythecreationtotheeldestsontillheenjoysthetitleofearlwithit,butthattheotherisbythecourtesyofEngland;however,thisItakeADREFERENDUM。
FromColchesterItookanotherstepdowntothecoast;thelandrunningoutagreatwayintothesea,southandsouth-eastmakesthatpromontoryoflandcalledtheNaze,andwellknowntoseamenusingthenortherntrade。Hereoneseesaseaopenasanoceanwithoutanyoppositeshore,thoughitbenomorethanthemouthoftheThames。ThispointcalledtheNaze,andthenorth-eastpointofKent,nearMargate,calledtheNorthForeland,makingwhattheycallthemouthoftheriverandtheportofLondon,thoughitbehereabovesixtymilesover。
AtWalton-under-the-Nazetheyfindontheshorecopperas-stoneingreatquantities;andthereareseverallargeworkscalledcopperashouses,wheretheymakeitwithgreatexpense。
OnthispromontoryisanewmarkerectedbytheTrinityHousemen,andatthepublicexpense,beingaroundbricktower,neareightyfeethigh。Theseagainssomuchuponthelandherebythecontinualwindsatsouth-west,thatwithinthememoryofsomeoftheinhabitantstheretheyhavelostabovethirtyacresoflandinoneplace。
Fromhencewegobackintothecountyaboutfourmiles,becauseofthecreekswhichliebetween;andthenturningeastagaincometoHarwich,ontheutmosteasternpointofthislargecountry。
Harwichisatownsowellknownandsoperfectlydescribedbymanywriters,Ineedsaylittleofit。Itisstrongbysituation,andmaybemademoresobyart。ButitismanyyearssincetheGovernmentofEnglandhavehadanyoccasiontofortifytownstothelandward;itisenoughthattheharbourorroad,whichisoneofthebestandsecurestinEngland,iscoveredattheentrancebyastrongfortandabatteryofgunstotheseaward,justasatTilbury,andwhichsufficientlydefendthemouthoftheriver。Andthereisaparticularfelicityinthisfortification,viz。,thatthoughtheentranceoropeningoftheriverintotheseaisverywide,especiallyathigh-water,atleasttwomiles,ifnotthreeover;yettheChannel,whichisdeep,andinwhichtheshipsmustkeepandcometotheharbour,isnarrow,andliesonlyonthesideofthefort,sothatalltheshipswhichcomeinorgooutmustcomecloseunderthegunsofthefort-thatistosay,underthecommandoftheirshot。
ThefortisontheSuffolksideofthebayorentrance,butstandssofarintotheseauponthepointofasandorshoal,whichrunsouttowardtheEssexside,asitwere,lapsoverthemouthofthathavenlikeablindtoit;andoursurveyorsofthecountryaffirmittobeinthecountyofEssex。Themakingthisplace,whichwasformerlynootherthanasandinthesea,solidenoughforthefoundationofsogoodafortification,hasnotbeendonebutbymanyyears'labour,oftenrepairs,andaninfiniteexpenseofmoney,butitisnowsofirmthatnothingofstormsandhightides,orsuchthingsasmaketheseadangeroustothesekindofworks,canaffectit。
Theharbourisofavastextent;for,astworiversemptythemselveshere,viz。,StourfromManningtreeandtheOrwellfromIpswich,thechannelsofbotharelargeanddeep;andsafeforallweathers;sowheretheyjointheymakealargebayorroadabletoreceivethebiggestships,andthegreatestnumberthatevertheworldsawtogether;Imeanshipsofwar。IntheoldDutchwargreatusehasbeenmadeofthisharbour;andIhaveknownthattherehasbeenonehundredsailofmen-of-warandtheirattendantsandbetweenthreeandfourhundredsailofcolliershipsallinthisharbouratatime,andyetnoneofthemcrowdingorridingindangerofoneanother。
Harwichisknownforbeingtheportwherethepacketboats,betweenEnglandandHolland,gooutandcomein。Theinhabitantsarefarfrombeingfamedforgoodusagetostrangers,but,onthecontrary,areblamedforbeingextravagantintheirreckoningsinthepublic-
houses,whichhasnotalittleencouragedthesettingupofsloops,whichtheynowcallpassageboats,toHolland,togodirectlyfromtheRiverThames;this,thoughitmaybesomethingthelongerpassage,yetastheyaresaidtobemoreobligingtopassengersandmorereasonableintheexpense,and,assomesay,also,thevesselsarebetterseaboats,hasbeenthereasonwhysomanypassengersdonotgoorcomebythewayofHarwichasformerlywerewonttodo;
insomuchthatthestagecoachesbetweenthisplaceandLondon,whichordinarilywenttwiceorthreetimesaweek,arenowentirelylaiddown,andthepassengersarelefttohirecoachesonpurpose,takepost-horses,orhirehorsestoColchester,astheyfindmostconvenient。
Theaccountofapetrifyingqualityintheearthhere,thoughsomewillhaveittobeinthewaterofaspringhardby,isverystrange。Theyboastthattheirtowniswalledandtheirstreetspavedwithclay,andyetthatoneisasstrongandtheotherascleanasthosethatarebuiltorpavedwithstone。Thefactisindeedtrue,forthereisasortofclayinthecliff,betweenthetownandtheBeaconHilladjoining,which,whenitfallsdownintothesea,whereitisbeatenwiththewavesandtheweather,turnsgraduallyintostone。Butthechiefreasonassignedisfromthewaterofacertainspringorwell,which,risinginthesaidcliff,runsdownintotheseaamongthosepiecesofclay,andpetrifiesthemasitruns;andtheforceoftheseaoftenstirring,andperhapsturning,thelumpsofclay,whenstormsofwindmaygiveforceenoughtothewater,causesthemtohardeneverywherealike;
otherwisethosewhichwerenotquitesunkinthewaterofthespringwouldbepetrifiedbutinpart。Thesestonesaregathereduptopavethestreetsandbuildthehouses,andareindeedveryhard。Itisalsoremarkablethatsomeofthemtakenupbeforetheyarethoroughlypetrifiedwill,uponbreakingthem,appeartobehardasastonewithoutandsoftasclayinthemiddle;whereasothersthathavelainaduetimeshallbethoroughstonetothecentre,andasexceedinghardwithinaswithout。Thesamespringissaidtoturnwoodintoiron。ButthisItaketobenomoreorlessthanthequality,which,asImentionedoftheshoreattheNaze,isfoundtobeinmuchofthestoneallalongthisshore,viz。,ofthecopperaskind;anditiscertainthatthecopperasstonesocalledisfoundinallthatcliff,andevenwherethewaterofthisspringhasrun;andIpresumethatthosewhocallthehardenedpiecesofwood,whichtheytakeoutofthiswellbythenameofiron,nevertriedthequalityofitwiththefireorhammer;iftheyhad,perhapstheywouldhavegivensomeotheraccountofit。
OnthepromontoryoflandwhichtheycallBeaconHillandwhichliesbeyondorbehindthetowntowardsthesea,thereisalighthousetogivetheshipsdirectionsintheirsailingbyaswellastheircomingintotheharbourinthenight。IshalltakenoticeoftheseagainalltogetherwhenIcometospeakoftheSocietyofTrinityHouse,astheyarecalled,bywhomtheyarealldirecteduponthiscoast。
ThistownwaserectedintoamarquisateinhonourofthetrulygloriousfamilyofSchomberg,theeldestsonofDukeSchomberg,wholandedwithKingWilliam,beingstyledMarquisofHarwich;butthatfamilyinEngland,atleastbeingextinctthetitlediesalso。
Harwichisatownofhurryandbusiness,notmuchofgaietyandpleasure;yettheinhabitantsseemwarmintheirnests,andsomeofthemareverywealthy。Therearenotmanyifanygentlemenorfamiliesofnoteeitherinthetownorverynearit。TheysendtwomemberstoParliament;thepresentareSirPeterParkerandHumphreyParsons,Esq。
AndnowbeingattheextremityofthecountyofEssex,ofwhichI
havegivenyousomeviewastothatsidenexttheseaonly,IshallbreakoffthispartofmyletterbytellingyouthatIwilltakethetownswhichliemoretowardsthecentreofthecounty,inmyreturnbythenorthandwestpartonly,thatImaygiveyouafewhintsofsometownswhichwerenearmeinmyroutethisway,andofwhichbeingsowellknownthereisbutlittletosay。
OntheroadfromLondontoColchester,beforeIcameintoitatWitham,liefourgoodmarkettownsatequaldistancefromoneanother,namely,Romford,notedfortwomarkets,viz。,oneforcalvesandhogs,theotherforcornandotherprovisions,most,ifnotall,boughtupforLondonmarket。Atthefartherendofthetown,inthemiddleofastatelypark,stoodGuldyHall,vulgarlyGiddyHall,anancientseatofoneCoke,sometimeLordMayorofLondon,butforfeitedonsomeoccasiontotheCrown。Itissincepulleddowntotheground,andtherenowstandsanoblestatelyfabricormansionhouse,builtuponthespotbySirJohnEyles,awealthymerchantofLondon,andchosenSub-GovernoroftheSouthSeaCompanyimmediatelyaftertheruinoftheformerSub-GovernorandDirectors,whoseoverthrowmakesthehistoryofthesetimesfamous。
BrentwoodandIngatestone,andevenChelmsforditself,haveverylittletobesaidofthem,butthattheyarelargethoroughfaretowns,fullofgoodinns,andchieflymaintainedbytheexcessivemultitudeofcarriersandpassengerswhichareconstantlypassingthiswaytoLondonwithdrovesofcattle,provisions,andmanufacturesforLondon。
Thelastofthesetownsisindeedthecountytown,wherethecountygaoliskept,andwheretheassizesareveryoftenheld;itstandsontheconfluxoftworivers-theChelmer,whencethetowniscalled,andtheCann。
AtLees,orLee'sPriory,assomecallit,istobeseenanancienthouseinthemiddleofabeautifulpark,formerlytheseatofthelateDukeofManchester,butsincethedeathofthedukeitissoldtotheDuchessDowagerofBuckinghamshire,thepresentDukeofManchesterretiringtohisancientfamilyseatatKimboltoninHuntingdonshire,itbeingamuchfinerresidence。HisgraceislatelymarriedtoadaughteroftheDukeofMontagubyabranchofthehouseofMarlborough。
Fourmarkettownsfilluptherestofthispartofthecountry-
Dunmow,Braintree,Thaxted,andCoggeshall-allnotedforthemanufactureofbays,asabove,andforverylittleelse,exceptI