andasinthecourseofthisjourneyIshallhavemanyoccasionstocallitacircuit,ifnotacircle,soIchosetogiveitthetitleofcircuitsintheplural,becauseIdonotpretendtohavetravelleditallinonejourney,butinmany,andsomeofthemmanytimesover;thebettertoinformmyselfofeverythingIcouldfindworthtakingnoticeof。
IhopeitwillappearthatIamnottheless,butthemorecapableofgivingafullaccountofthings,byhowmuchthemoredeliberationIhavetakenintheviewofthem,andbyhowmuchtheoftenerIhavehadopportunitytoseethem。
Isetoutthe3rdofApril,1722,goingfirsteastward,andtookwhatIthinkImayveryhonestlycallacircuitintheveryletterofit;forIwentdownbythecoastoftheThamesthroughtheMarshesorHundredsonthesouthsideofthecountyofEssex,tillIcametoMalden,Colchester,andHarwich,thencecontinuingonthecoastofSuffolktoYarmouth;thenceroundbytheedgeofthesea,onthenorthandwestsideofNorfolk,toLynn,Wisbech,andtheWash;thencebackagain,onthenorthsideofSuffolkandEssex,tothewest,endingitinMiddlesex,neartheplacewhereIbeganit,reservingthemiddleorcentreoftheseveralcountiestosomelittleexcursions,whichImadebythemselves。
PassingBowBridge,wherethecountyofEssexbegins,thefirstobservationImadewas,thatallthevillageswhichmaybecalledtheneighbourhoodofthecityofLondononthis,aswellasontheothersidesthereof,whichIshallspeaktointheirorder;Isay,allthosevillagesareincreasedinbuildingstoastrangedegree,withinthecompassofabouttwentyorthirtyyearspastatthemost。
ThevillageofStratford,thefirstinthiscountyfromLondon,isnotonlyincreased,but,Ibelieve,morethandoubledinthattime;
everyvacancyfilledupwithnewhouses,andtwolittletownsorhamlets,astheymaybecalled,ontheforestsideofthetownentirelynew,namelyMarylandPointandtheGravelPits,onefacingtheroadtoWoodfordandEpping,andtheotherfacingtheroadtoIlford;andasforthehitherpart,itisalmostjoinedtoBow,inspiteofrivers,canals,marshygrounds,&c。NoristhisincreaseofbuildingthecaseonlyinthisandalltheothervillagesroundLondon;buttheincreaseofthevalueandrentofthehousesformerlystandinghas,inthatcompassofyearsabove-mentioned,advancedtoaverygreatdegree,andImayventuretosayatleastthefifthpart;somethinkathirdpart,abovewhattheywerebefore。
Thisisindeedmostvisible,speakingofStratfordinEssex;butitisthesamethinginproportioninothervillagesadjacent,especiallyontheforestside;asatLowLeyton,Leytonstone,Walthamstow,Woodford,Wanstead,andthetownsofWestHam,Plaistow,Upton,etc。Inallwhichplaces,ornearthemastheinhabitantssay,aboveathousandnewfoundationshavebeenerected,besidesoldhousesrepaired,allsincetheRevolution;andthisisnottobeforgottentoo,thatthisincreaseis,generallyspeaking,ofhandsome,largehouses,from20poundsayearto60
pounds,veryfewunder20poundsayear;beingchieflyforthehabitationsoftherichestcitizens,suchaseitherareabletokeeptwohouses,oneinthecountryandoneinthecity;orforsuchcitizensasbeingrich,andhavingleftofftrade,livealtogetherintheseneighbouringvillages,forthepleasureandhealthofthelatterpartoftheirdays。
Thetruthofthismayatleastappear,inthattheytellmetherearenolessthantwohundredcoacheskeptbytheinhabitantswithinthecircumferenceofthesefewvillagesnamedabove,besidessuchasarekeptbyaccidentallodgers。
Thisincreaseoftheinhabitants,andthecauseofit,IshallenlargeuponwhenIcometospeakofthelikeinthecountiesofMiddlesex,Surrey,&c,whereitisthesame,onlyinamuchgreaterdegree。ButthisImusttakenoticeofhere,thatthisincreasecausesthosevillagestobemuchpleasanterandmoresociablethanformerly,fornowpeoplegotothem,notforretirementintothecountry,butforgoodcompany;ofwhich,thatImayspeaktotheladiesaswellasotherauthorsdo,thereareinthesevillages,nay,inall,threeorfourexcepted,excellentconversation,andagreatdealofit,andthatwithoutthemixtureofassemblies,gaming-houses,andpublicfoundationsofviceanddebauchery;andparticularlyIfindnoneofthoseincentiveskeptuponthissidethecountry。
Mr。Camden,andhislearnedcontinuator,BishopGibson,haveransackedthiscountryforitsantiquities,andhaveleftlittleunsearched;andasitisnotmypresentdesigntosaymuchofwhathasbeensaidalready,Ishalltouchverylightlywheretwosuchexcellentantiquarieshavegonebeforeme;exceptitbetoaddwhatmayhavebeensincediscovered,whichastothesepartsisonlythis:ThatthereseemstobelatelyfoundoutinthebottomoftheMarshesgenerallycalledHackneyMarsh,andbeginningnearabouttheplacenowcalledtheWick,betweenOldFordandthesaidWick,theremainsofagreatstonecauseway,which,asitissupposed,wasthehighway,orgreatroadfromLondonintoEssex,andthesamewhichgoesnowoverthegreatbridgebetweenBowandStratford。
Thatthegreatroadlaythisway,andthatthegreatcausewaylandedagainjustovertheriver,wherenowtheTempleMillsstand,andpassedbySirThomasHickes'shouseatRuckolls,allthisisnotdoubted;andthatitwasoneofthosefamoushighwaysmadebytheRomansthereisundoubtedproof,bytheseveralmarksofRomanwork,andbyRomancoinsandotherantiquitiesfoundthere,someofwhicharesaidtobedepositedinthehandsoftheRev。Mr。Strype,vicaroftheparishofLowLeyton。
FromhencethegreatroadpasseduptoLeytonstone,aplacebysomeknownnowasmuchbythesignofthe"GreenMan,"formerlyalodgeupontheedgeoftheforest;andcrossingbyWansteadHouse,formerlythedwellingofSirJosiahChild,nowofhissontheLordCastlemainofwhichhereafter,wentoverthesameriverwhichwenowpassatIlford;andpassingthatpartofthegreatforestwhichwenowcallHainaultForest,cameintothatwhichisnowthegreatroad,alittleonthissidetheWhalebone,aplaceontheroadsocalledbecausetherib-boneofagreatwhale,whichwastakenintheRiverThamesthesameyearthatOliverCromwelldied,1658,wasfixedthereforamonumentofthatmonstrouscreature,itbeingatfirstabouteight-and-twentyfeetlong。
Accordingtomyfirstintentionofeffectuallyviewingthesea-
coastofthesethreecounties,IwentfromStratfordtoBarking,alargemarket-town,butchieflyinhabitedbyfishermen,whosesmacksrideintheThames,atthemouthoftheirriver,fromwhencetheirfishissentuptoLondontothemarketatBillingsgatebysmallboats,ofwhichIshallspeakbyitselfinmydescriptionofLondon。
OnethingIcannotomitinthementionoftheseBarkingfisher-
smacks,viz。,thatoneofthosefishermen,averysubstantialandexperiencedman,convincedmethatallthepretencestobringingfishalivetoLondonmarketfromtheNorthSeas,andotherremoteplacesonthecoastofGreatBritain,bythenew-builtsloopscalledfish-pools,havenotbeenabletodoanythingbutwhattheirfishing-smacksareableonthesameoccasiontoperform。Thesefishing-smacksareveryusefulvesselstothepublicuponmanyoccasions;asparticularly,intimeofwartheyareusedaspress-
smacks,runningtoallthenorthernandwesterncoaststopickupseamentomanthenavy,whenanyexpeditionisathandthatrequiresasuddenequipment;atothertimes,beingexcellentsailors,theyaretenderstoparticularmenofwar;andonanexpeditiontheyhavebeenmadeuseofasmachinesfortheblowingupoffortifiedportsandhavens;asatCalais,St。Malo,andotherplaces。
ThisparishofBarkingisverylarge,andbytheimprovementoflandstakeninoutoftheThames,andoutoftheriverwhichrunsbythetown,thetithes,asthetownsmenassuredme,areworthabove600poundsperannum,including,smalltithes。NOTE-Thisparishhastwoorthreechapelsofease,viz。,oneatIlford,andoneonthesideofHainaultForest,calledNewChapel。
SirThomasFanshaw,ofanancientRomanCatholicfamily,hasaverygoodestateinthisparish。Alittlebeyondthetown,ontheroadtoDagenham,stoodagreathouse,ancient,andnowalmostfallendown,wheretraditionsaystheGunpowderTreasonPlotwasatfirstcontrived,andthatallthefirstconsultationsaboutitwereheldthere。
Thissideofthecountyisratherrichinlandthanininhabitants,occasionedchieflybytheunhealthinessoftheair;fortheselowmarshgrounds,which,withallthesouthsideofthecounty,havebeensavedoutoftheRiverThames,andoutofthesea,wheretheriveriswideenoughtobecalledso,beginhere,orratherbeginatWestHam,byStratford,andcontinuetoextendthemselves,fromhenceeastward,growingwiderandwidertillwecomebeyondTilbury,whentheflatcountryliessix,seven,oreightmilesbroad,andisjustlysaidtobebothunhealthyandunpleasant。
However,thelandsarerich,and,asisobservable,itisverygoodfarminginthemarshes,becausethelandlordsletgoodpennyworths,foritbeingaplacewhereeverybodycannotlive,thosethatventureitwillhaveencouragementandindeeditisbutreasonabletheyshould。
SeverallittleobservationsImadeinthispartofthecountyofEssex。
1。Wesaw,passingfromBarkingtoDagenham,thefamousbreach,madebyaninundationoftheThames,whichwassogreatasthatitlaidnear5,000acresoflandunderwater,butwhichafterneartenyearslyingunderwater,andbeingseveraltimesblownup,hasbeenatlasteffectuallystoppedbytheapplicationofCaptainPerry,thegentlemanwho,forseveralyears,hadbeenemployedintheCzarofMuscovy'sworks,atVeronitza,ontheRiverDon。Thisbreachappearednoweffectuallymadeup,andtheyassuredusthatthenewwork,wherethebreachwas,isbymuchesteemedthestrongestofalltheseawallsinthatlevel。
2。Itwasobservablethatgreatpartofthelandsintheselevels,especiallythoseonthissideEastTilbury,areheldbythefarmers,cow-keepers,andgrazingbutcherswholiveinandnearLondon,andthattheyaregenerallystockedallthewinterhalfyearwithlargefatsheep,viz。,LincolnshireandLeicestershirewethers,whichtheybuyinSmithfieldinSeptemberandOctober,whentheLincolnshireandLeicestershiregrazierssellofftheirstock,andarekeptheretillChristmas,orCandlemas,orthereabouts;andthoughtheyarenotmadeatallfatterherethantheywerewhenboughtin,yetthefarmerorbutcherfindsverygoodadvantageinit,bythedifferenceofthepriceofmuttonbetweenMichaelmas,whenitischeapest,andCandlemas,whenitisdearest;
thisiswhatthebutchersvaluethemselvesupon,whentheytellusatthemarketthatitisrightmarsh-mutton。
3。InthebottomoftheseMarshes,andclosetotheedgeoftheriver,standsthestrongfortressofTilbury,calledTilburyFort,whichmayjustlybelookeduponasthekeyoftheRiverThames,andconsequentlythekeyoftheCityofLondon。Itisaregularfortification。Thedesignofitwasapentagon,butthewaterbastion,asitwouldhavebeencalled,wasneverbuilt。TheplanwaslaidoutbySirMartinBeckman,chiefengineertoKingCharlesII。,whoalsodesignedtheworksatSheerness。Theesplanadeofthefortisverylarge,andthebastionsthelargestofanyinEngland,thefoundationislaidsodeep,andpilesunderthat,drivendowntwoanendofoneanother,sofar,tilltheywereassuredtheywerebelowthechanneloftheriver,andthatthepiles,whichwereshedwithiron,enteredintothesolidchalkrockadjoiningto,orreachingfrom,thechalkhillsontheotherside。
Thesebastionssettledconsiderablyatfirst,asdidalsopartofthecurtain,thegreatquantityofearththatwasbroughttofillthemup,necessarily,requiringtobemadesolidbytime;buttheyarenowfirmastherocksofchalkwhichtheycamefrom,andthefillinguponeofthesebastions,asIhavebeentoldbygoodhands,costtheGovernment6,000pounds,beingfilledwithchalkrubbishfetchedfromthechalkpitsatNorthfleet,justaboveGravesend。
Theworktothelandsideiscomplete;thebastionsarefacedwithbrick。Thereisadoubleditch,ormoat,theinnermostpartofwhichis180feetbroad;thereisagoodcounterscarp,andacoveredwaymarkedoutwithravelinsandtenailles,buttheyarenotraisedasecondtimeaftertheirfirstsettling。
Onthelandsidetherearealsotwosmallredoubtsofbrick,butofverylittlestrength,forthechiefstrengthofthisfortonthelandsideconsistsinthis,thattheyareabletolaythewholelevelunderwater,andsotomakeitimpossibleforanenemytomakeanyapproachestothefortthatway。
Onthesidenexttheriverthereisaverystrongcurtain,withanoblegatecalledtheWaterGateinthemiddle,andtheditchispalisadoed。Attheplacewherethewaterbastionwasdesignedtobebuilt,andwhichbytheplanshouldrunwhollyoutintotheriver,sotoflankthetwocurtainsofeachside;Isay,intheplacewhereitshouldhavebeen,standsahightower,whichtheytelluswasbuiltinQueenElizabeth'stime,andwascalledtheBlockHouse;thesidenextthewaterisvacant。
Beforethiscurtain,aboveandbelowthesaidvacancy,isaplatformintheplaceofacounterscarp,onwhichareplanted106
piecesofcannon,generallyallofthemcarryingfromtwenty-fourtoforty-sixpoundball;abatterysoterribleaswellimportstheconsequenceofthatplace;besideswhich,therearesmallerpiecesplantedbetween,andthebastionsandcurtainalsoareplantedwithguns;sothattheymustbeboldfellowswhowillventureinthebiggestshipstheworldhasheardoftopasssuchabattery,ifthemenappointedtoservethegunsdotheirdutylikestoutfellows,asbecomesthem。
ThepresentgovernmentofthisimportantplaceisundertheprudentadministrationoftheRightHonourabletheLordNewbrugh。
Fromhencethereisnothingformanymilestogetherremarkablebutacontinuedlevelofunhealthymarshes,calledtheThreeHundreds,tillwecomebeforeLeigh,andtothemouthoftheRiverChelmer,andBlackwater。Theseriversunitedmakealargefirth,orinletofthesea,whichbyMr。CamdeniscalledIDUMANUMFLUVIUM;butbyourfishermenandseamen,whouseitasaport,itiscalledMaldenWater。
InthisinletoftheseaisOsey,orOsythIsland,commonlycalledOosyIsland,sowellknownbyourLondonmenofpleasurefortheinfinitenumberofwildfowl,thatistosay,duck,mallard,teal,andwidgeon,ofwhichtherearesuchvastflights,thattheytellustheisland,namelythecreek,seemscoveredwiththematcertaintimesoftheyear,andtheygofromLondononpurposeforthepleasureofshooting;and,indeed,oftencomehomeverywellladenwithgame。Butitmustberememberedtoothatthosegentlemenwhoaresuchloversofthesport,andgosofarforit,oftenreturnwithanEssexagueontheirbacks,whichtheyfindaheavierloadthanthefowlstheyhaveshot。
Itisonthisshore,andnearthiscreek,thatthegreatestquantityoffreshfishiscaughtwhichsuppliesnotthiscountryonly,butLondonmarketsalso。Ontheshore,beginningalittlebelowCandyIsland,orratherbelowLeighRoad,thereliesagreatshoalorsandcalledtheBlackTail,whichrunsoutnearthreeleaguesintotheseadueeast;attheendofitstandsapoleormast,setupbytheTrinityHousemenofLondon,whosebusinessistolaybuoysandsetupseamarksforthedirectionofthesailors;
thisiscalledShoeBeacon,fromthepointoflandwherethissandbegins,whichiscalledShoeburyness,andthatfromthetownofShoebury,whichstandsbyit。Fromthissand,andontheedgeofShoebury,beforeit,orsouthwestofit,allalong,tothemouthofColchesterwater,theshoreisfullofshoalsandsands,withsomedeepchannelsbetween;allwhicharesofulloffish,thatnotonlytheBarkingfishing-smackscomehithertofish,butthewholeshoreisfullofsmallfisher-boatsinverygreatnumbers,belongingtothevillagesandtownsonthecoast,whocomeineverytidewithwhattheytake;andsellingthesmallerfishinthecountry,sendthebestandlargestawayuponhorses,whichgonightanddaytoLondonmarket。
N。B-Iamthemoreparticularinmyremarksonthisplace,becauseinthecourseofmytravelsthereaderwillmeetwiththelikeinalmosteveryplaceofnotethroughthewholeisland,whereitwillbeseenhowthiswholekingdom,aswellthepeopleastheland,andeventhesea,ineverypartofit,areemployedtofurnishsomething,andImayadd,thebestofeverything,tosupplytheCityofLondonwithprovisions;Imeanbyprovisions,corn,flesh,fish,butter,cheese,salt,fuel,timber,etc。,andclothesalso;witheverythingnecessaryforbuilding,andfurniturefortheirownuseorfortrade;ofallwhichintheirorder。
Onthisshorealsoaretakenthebestandnicest,thoughnotthelargest,oystersinEngland;thespotfromwhencetheyhavetheircommonappellationisalittlebankcalledWoelfleet,scarcetobecalledanisland,inthemouthoftheRiverCrouch,nowcalledCrookseaWater;butthechiefplacewherethesaidoystersarenowhadisfromWyvenhoeandtheshoresadjacent,whithertheyarebroughtbythefishermen,whotakethematthemouthofthattheycallColchesterwaterandaboutthesandtheycalltheSpits,andcarrythemuptoWyvenhoe,wheretheyarelaidinbedsorpitsontheshoretofeed,astheycallit;andthenbeingbarrelledupandcarriedtoColchester,whichisbutthreemilesoff,theyaresenttoLondonbyland,andarefromthencecalledColchesteroysters。
ThechiefsortofotherfishwhichtheycarryfromthispartoftheshoretoLondonaresoles,whichtheytakesometimesexceedinglarge,andyieldaverygoodpriceatLondonmarket。Alsosometimesmiddlingturbot,withwhiting,codlingandlargeflounders;thesmallfish,asabove,theysellinthecountry。
Intheseveralcreeksandopenings,asabove,onthisshoretherearealsootherislands,butofnoparticularnote,exceptMersey,whichliesinthemiddleofthetwoopeningsbetweenMaldenWaterandColchesterWater;beingofthemostdifficultaccess,sothatitisthoughtathousandmenwellprovidedmightkeeppossessionofitagainstagreatforce,whetherbylandorsea。Onthisaccount,andbecauseifpossessedbyanenemyitwouldshutupallthenavigationandfisheryonthatside,theGovernmentformerlybuiltafortonthesouth-eastpointofit;andgenerallyincaseofDutchwar,thereisastrongbodyoftroopskepttheretodefendit。
AtthisplacemaybesaidtoendwhatwecalltheHundredsofEssex-thatistosay,thethreeHundredsordivisionswhichincludethemarshycountry,viz。,BarnstableHundred,RochfordHundred,andDengyHundred。
IhaveoneremarkmorebeforeIleavethisdamppartoftheworld,andwhichIcannotomitonthewomen'saccount,namely,thatItooknoticeofastrangedecayofthesexhere;insomuchthatallalongthiscountryitwasveryfrequenttomeetwithmenthathadhadfromfiveorsixtofourteenorfifteenwives;nay,andsomemore。
AndIwasinformedthatinthemarshesontheothersideoftheriveroveragainstCandyIslandtherewasafarmerwhowasthenlivingwiththefive-and-twentiethwife,andthathisson,whowasbutaboutthirty-fiveyearsold,hadalreadyhadaboutfourteen。
Indeed,thispartofthestoryIonlyhadbyreport,thoughfromgoodhandstoo;buttheotheriswellknownandeasytobeinquiredintoaboutFobbing,Curringham,Thundersly,Benfleet,Prittlewell,Wakering,GreatStambridge,Cricksea,Burnham,Dengy,andothertownsofthelikesituation。Thereason,asamerryfellowtoldme,whosaidhehadhadaboutadozenandahalfofwivesthoughI
foundafterwardshefibbedalittlewasthis:Thattheybeingbredinthemarshesthemselvesandseasonedtotheplace,didprettywellwithit;butthattheyalwayswentupintothehillycountry,or,tospeaktheirownlanguage,intotheuplandsforawife。Thatwhentheytooktheyounglassesoutofthewholesomeandfreshairtheywerehealthy,fresh,andclear,andwell;butwhentheycameoutoftheirnativeairintothemarshesamongthefogsanddamps,theretheypresentlychangedtheircomplexion,gotanagueortwo,andseldomhelditabovehalfayear,orayearatmost;"Andthen,"saidhe,"wegototheuplandsagainandfetchanother;"sothatmarryingofwiveswasreckonedakindofgoodfarmtothem。
Itistruethefellowtoldthisinakindofdrolleryandmirth;
butthefact,forallthat,iscertainlytrue;andthattheyhaveabundanceofwivesbythatverymeans。Norisitlesstruethattheinhabitantsintheseplacesdonotholditout,asinothercountries,andasfirstyouseldommeetwithveryancientpeopleamongthepoor,asinotherplaceswedo,so,takeitonewithanother,notone-halfoftheinhabitantsarenativesoftheplace;
butsuchasfromothercountriesorinotherpartsofthiscountrysettleherefortheadvantageofgoodfarms;forwhichIappealtoanyimpartialinquiry,havingmyselfexaminedintoitcriticallyinseveralplaces。
Fromthemarshesandlowgroundsbeingnotabletotravelwithoutmanywindingsandindenturesbyreasonofthecreeksandwaters,I
cameuptothetownofMalden,anotedmarkettownsituateattheconfluxorjoiningoftwoprincipalriversinthiscounty,theChelmorChelmer,andtheBlackwater,andwheretheyenterintothesea。Thechannel,asIhavenoted,iscalledbythesailorsMaldenWater,andisnavigableuptothetown,wherebythatmeansisagreattradeforcarryingcornbywatertoLondon;thecountyofEssexbeingespeciallyonallthatsideagreatcorncounty。
WhenIhavesaidthisIthinkIhavedoneMaldenjustice,andsaidallofitthatthereistobesaid,unlessIshouldrunintotheoldstoryofitsantiquity,andtellyouitwasaRomancolonyinthetimeofVespasian,andthatitwascalledCamolodunum。HowtheBritons,underQueenBoadicea,inrevengefortheRomans'ill-usageofher-forindeedtheyusedhermajestyill-theystrippedhernakedandwhippedherpubliclythroughtheirstreetsforsomeaffrontshehadgiventhem。IsayhowforthissheraisedtheBritonsroundthecountry,overpowered,andcutinpiecestheTenthLegion,killedaboveeightythousandRomans,anddestroyedthecolony;butwasafterwardsoverthrowninagreatbattle,andsixtythousandBritonsslain。Isay,unlessIshouldenterintothisstory,IhavenothingmoretosayofMalden,and,asforthatstory,itissofullyrelatedbyMr。CamdeninhishistoryoftheRomansinBritainatthebeginningofhis"Britannia,"thatIneedonlyreferthereadertoit,andgoonwithmyjourney。
Beingobligedtocomethusfarintotheuplands,asabove,ImadeitmyroadtopassthroughWitham,apleasant,well-situatedmarkettown,inwhich,andinitsneighbourhood,thereareasmanygentlemenofgoodfortunesandfamiliesasIbelievecanbemetwithinsonarrowacompassinanyofthethreecountiesofwhichI
makethiscircuit。
InthetownofWithamdwellstheLordPasely,oldestsonoftheEarlofAbercornofIrelandabranchofthenoblefamilyofHamilton,inScotland。Hislordshiphasasmall,butaneat,well-builtnewhouse,andisfinishinghisgardensinsuchamannerasfewinthatpartofEnglandwillexceedthem。
NearerChelmsford,hardbyBoreham,livestheLordViscountBarrington,who,thoughnotborntothetitle,orestate,ornamewhichhenowpossesses,hadthehonourtobetwicemadeheirtotheestatesofgentlemennotatallrelatedtohim,atleast,oneofthem,asisverymuchtohishonour,mentionedinhispatentofcreation。HisnamewasShute,hisfatheralinendraperinLondon,andservedsheriffofthesaidcityinverytroublesometimes。HechangedthenameofShuteforthatofBarringtonbyanActofParliamentobtainedforthatpurpose,andhadthedignityofabaronofthekingdomconferredonhimbythefavourofKingGeorge。
HislordshipisaDissenter,andseemstoloveretirement。HewasamemberofParliamentforthetownofBerwick-upon-Tweed。
OntheothersideofWitham,atFauburn,anancientmansionhouse,builtbytheRomans,livesMr。Bullock,whosefathermarriedthedaughterofthateminentcitizen,SirJosiahChild,ofWanstead,bywhomshehadthreesons;theeldestenjoystheestate,whichisconsiderable。
Itisobservable,thatinthispartofthecountrythereareseveralveryconsiderableestates,purchasedandnowenjoyedbycitizensofLondon,merchants,andtradesmen,asMr。Western,anironmerchant,nearKelendon;Mr。Cresnor,awholesalegrocer,whowas,alittlebeforehedied,namedforsheriffatEarl'sColn;Mr。
Olemus,amerchantatBraintree;Mr。Westcomb,nearMalden;SirThomasWebsteratCopthall,nearWaltham;andseveralothers。
ImentionthistoobservehowthepresentincreaseofwealthintheCityofLondonspreadsitselfintothecountry,andplantsfamiliesandfortunes,whoinanotheragewillequalthefamiliesoftheancientgentry,whoperhapswerebroughtout。Ishalltakenoticeofthisinageneralhead,andwhenIhaverunthroughallthecounties,collectalistofthefamiliesofcitizensandtradesmenthusestablishedintheseveralcounties,especiallyroundLondon。
Theproductofallthispartofthecountryiscorn,asthatofthemarshyfeedinggroundsmentionedaboveisgrass,wheretheirchiefbusinessisbreedingofcalves,whichIneednotsayarethebestandfattest,andthelargestvealinEngland,ifnotintheworld;
and,asaninstance,Iatepartofavealorcalf,fedbythelateSirJosiahChildatWanstead,theloinofwhichweighedabovethirtypounds,andthefleshexceedingwhiteandfat。
FromhenceIwentontoColchester。ThestoryofKill-Dane,whichistoldofthetownofKelvedon,threemilesfromWitham,namely,thatthisistheplacewherethemassacreoftheDaneswasbegunbythewomen,andthatthereforeitwascalledKill-Dane;Isayofit,aswegenerallysayofimprobablenews,itwantsconfirmation。ThetruenameofthetownisKelvedon,andhasbeensoformanyhundredyears。NeitherdoesMr。Camden,oranyotherwriterImeetwithworthnaming,insistonthispieceofemptytradition。ThetowniscommonlycalledKeldon。
Colchesterisanancientcorporation。Thetownislarge,verypopulous,thestreetsfairandbeautiful,andthoughitmaynotsaidtobefinelybuilt,yetthereareabundanceofverygoodandwell-builthousesinit。Itstillmournsintheruinsofacivilwar;duringwhich,orratheraftertheheatofthewarwasover,itsufferedaseveresiege,which,thegarrisonmakingaresolutedefence,wasturnedintoablockade,inwhichthegarrisonandinhabitantsalsosufferedtheutmostextremityofhunger,andwereatlastobligedtosurrenderatdiscretion,whentheirtwochiefofficers,SirCharlesLucasandSirGeorgeLisle,wereshottodeathunderthecastlewall。Theinhabitantshadatraditionthatnograsswouldgrowuponthespotwherethebloodofthosetwogallantgentlemenwasspilt,andtheyshowedtheplacebareofgrassformanyyears;butwhetherforthisreasonIwillnotaffirm。Thestoryisnowdropped,andthegrass,Isuppose,growsthere,asinotherplaces。
However,thebatteredwalls,thebreachesintheturrets,andtheruinedchurches,stillremain,exceptthatthechurchofSt。Marywheretheyhadtheroyalfortisrebuilt;butthesteeple,whichwastwo-thirdsbattereddown,becausethebesiegedhadalargeculverinuponitthatdidmuchexecution,remainsstillinthatcondition。
Thereisanotherchurchwhichbearsthemarksofthosetimes,namely,onthesouthsideofthetown,inthewaytotheHythe,ofwhichmorehereafter。
Thelinesofcontravallation,withthefortsbuiltbythebesiegers,andwhichsurroundedthewholetown,remainveryvisibleinmanyplaces;butthechiefofthemaredemolished。
TheRiverColne,whichpassesthroughthistown,compassesitonthenorthandeastsides,andservedinthosetimesforacompletedefenceonthosesides。Theyhavethreebridgesoverit,onecalledNorthBridge,atthenorthgate,bywhichtheroadleadsintoSuffolk;onecalledEastBridge,atthefootoftheHighStreet,overwhichliestheroadtoHarwich,andoneattheHythe,asabove。
Theriverisnavigablewithinthreemilesofthetownforshipsoflargeburthen;alittleloweritmayreceiveevenaroyalnavy;anduptothatpartcalledtheHythe,closetothehouses,itisnavigableforhoysandsmallbarques。ThisHytheisalongstreet,passingfromwesttoeast,onthesouthsideofthetown。Atthewestendofit,thereisasmallintermissionofthebuildings,butnotmuch;andtowardstheriveritisverypopulousitmaybecalledtheWappingofColchester。Thereisonechurchinthatpartofthetown,alargequaybytheriver,andagoodcustom-
house。
Thetownmaybesaidchieflytosubsistbythetradeofmakingbays,whichisknownovermostofthetradingpartsofEuropebythenameofColchesterBays,thoughindeedallthetownsroundcarryonthesametrade-namely,Kelvedon,Witham,Coggeshall,Braintree,Bocking,&c。,andthewholecounty,largeasitis,maybesaidtobeemployed,andinpartmaintained,bythespinningofwoolforthebaytradeofColchesteranditsadjacenttowns。Theaccountofthesiege,A。D。1648,withadiaryofthemostremarkablepassages,areasfollows,whichIhadfromsogoodahandasthatIhavenoreasontoquestionitsbeingatruerelation。
ADiary:Or,AnAccountOfTheSiegeAndBlockadeOfColchester,A。D。1648。
Onthe4thofJune,wewerealarmedinthetownofColchesterthattheLordGoring,theLordCapel,andabodyoftwothousandoftheloyalparty,whohadbeeninarmsinKent,havingleftagreatbodyofanarmyinpossessionofRochesterBridge,wheretheyresolvedtofighttheLordFairfaxandtheParliamentarmy,hadgiventhesaidGeneralFairfaxtheslip,andhavingpassedtheThamesatGreenwich,werecometoStratford,andwereadvancingthisway;
uponwhichnews,SirCharlesLucas,SirGeorgeLisle,ColonelCook,andseveralgentlemenoftheloyalarmy,andallthathadcommissionsfromtheking,withagallantappearanceofgentlemenvolunteers,drewtogetherfromallpartsofthecountrytojoinwiththem。
The8th,wewerefurtherinformedthattheywereadvancedtoChelmsford,toNewHallHouse,andtoWitham;andthe9thsomeofthehorsearrivedinthetown,takingpossessionofthegates,andhavingengineerswiththem,toldusthatGeneralGoringhadresolvedtomakethistownhisheadquarters,andwouldcauseittobewellfortified。Theyalsocausedthedrumstobeatforvolunteers;andagoodnumberofthepoorbay-weavers,andsuch-
likepeople,wantingemployment,enlisted;sothattheycompletedSirCharlesLucas'sregiment,whichwasbutthin,toneareighthundredmen。
Onthe10thwehadnewsthattheLordFairfax,havingbeatentheRoyalistsatMaidstone,andretakenRochester,hadpassedtheThamesatGravesend,thoughwithgreatdifficulty,andwithsomeloss,andwascometoHorndon-on-the-Hill,inordertogainColchesterbeforetheRoyalists;butthathearingSirCharlesLucashadpreventedhim,hadorderedhisrendezvousatBillerecay,andintendedtopossessthepassatMaldenonthe11th,whereSirThomasHonnywood,withthecounty-trainedbands,wastobethesameday。
ThesameeveningtheLordGoring,withallhisforces,makingaboutfivethousandsixhundredmen,horseandfoot,cametoColchester,andencampingwithoutthesuburbs,undercommandofthecannonofSt。Mary'sfort,madedispositiontofighttheParliamentforcesiftheycameup。
The12th,theLordGoringcameintoColchester,viewedthefortinSt。Mary'schurchyard,orderedmorecannontobeplanteduponit,postedtworegimentsinthesuburbswithouttheheadgate,letthetownknowhewouldtakethemintohisMajesty'sprotection,andthathewouldfighttheenemyinthatsituation。ThesameeveningtheLordFairfax,withastrongpartyofonethousandhorse,cametoLexden,attwosmallmiles'distance,expectingtherestofhisarmytherethesamenight。
TheLordGoringbroughtinprisonersthesameday,SirWilliamMasham,andseveralothergentlemenofthecounty,whoweresecuredunderastrongguard;whichtheParliamenthearing,orderedtwentyprisonersoftheroyalpartytobesingledout,declaring,thattheyshouldbeusedinthesamemannerastheLordGoringusedSirWilliamMasham,andthegentlemenprisonerswithhim。
Onthe13th,earlyinthemorning,ourspiesbroughtintelligencethattheLordFairfax,allhisforcesbeingcomeuptohim,wasmakingdispositionsforamarch,resolvingtoattacktheRoyalistsintheircamp;uponwhich,theLordGoringdrewallhisforcestogether,resolvingtofight。Theengineershadofferedthenightbeforetoentrenchhiscamp,andtodrawalinerounditinonenight'stime,buthislordshipdeclinedit,andnowtherewasnotimeforit;whereuponthegeneral,LordGoring,drewuphisarmyinorderofbattleonbothsidestheroad,thehorseintheopenfieldsonthewings;thefootweredrawnup,oneregimentintheroad,oneregimentoneachside,andtworegimentsforreserveinthesuburb,justattheentranceofthetown,witharegimentofvolunteersadvancedasaforlornhope,andaregimentofhorseatthehead-gate,readytosupportthereserve,asoccasionshouldrequire。
Aboutnineinthemorningweheardtheenemy'sdrumsbeatamarch,andinhalfanhourmoretheirfirsttroopsappearedonthehighergroundstowardsLexden。ImmediatelythecannonfromSt。Mary'sfireduponthem,andputsometroopsofhorseintoconfusion,doinggreatexecution,which,theynotbeingabletoshunit,madethemquickentheirpace,fallon,whenourcannonwereobligedtoceasefiring,lestweshouldhurtourowntroopsaswellastheenemy。
Soonafter,theirfootappeared,andourcannonsalutedtheminlikemanner,andkilledthemagreatmanymen。
TheirfirstlineoffootwasledupbyColonelBarkstead,andconsistedofthreeregimentsoffoot,makingabout1,700men,andthesechargedourregimentinthelane,commandedbySirGeorgeLisleandSirWilliamCampion。Theyfellonwithgreatfury,andwerereceivedwithasmuchgallantry,andthreetimesrepulsed;norcouldtheybreakinhere,thoughtheLordFairfaxsentfreshmentosupportthem,tilltheRoyalists'horse,oppressedwithnumbersontheleft,wereobligedtoretire,andatlasttocomefullgallopintothestreet,andsoonintothetown。Nay,stillthefootstoodfirm,andthevolunteers,beingallgentlemen,kepttheirgroundwiththegreatestresolution;buttheleftwingbeingrouted,asabove,SirWilliamCampionwasobligedtomakeafronttotheleft,andliningthehedgewithhismusketeers,madeastandwithabodyofpikesagainsttheenemy'shorse,andpreventedthementeringthelane。Herethatgallantgentlemanwaskilledwithacarabineshot;andafteraverygallantresistance,thehorseontherightbeingalsooverpowered,thewordwasgiventoretreat,which,however,wasdoneinsuchgoodorder,theregimentsofreservestandingdrawnupattheendofthestreet,readytoreceivetheenemy'shorseuponthepointsoftheirpikes,thattheroyaltroopscameonintheopeningsbetweentheregiments,andenteredthetownwithverylittleloss,andinverygoodorder。
Bythis,however,thoseregimentsofreservewerebroughtatlasttosustaintheeffortsoftheenemy'swholearmy,tillbeingoverpoweredbynumberstheywereputintodisorder,andforcedtogetintothetowninthebestmannertheycould;bywhichmeansneartwohundredmenwerekilledormadeprisoners。
Encouragedbythissuccesstheenemypushedon,supposingtheyshouldenterthetownpell-mellwiththerest;nordidtheRoyalistshinderthem,butletgoodpartofBarkstead'sownregimententerthehead-gate;butthensallyingfromSt。Mary'swithachoicebodyoffootontheirleft,andthehorserallyingintheHighStreet,andchargingthemagaininthefront,theyweredrivenbackquiteintothestreetofthesuburb,andmostofthosethathadsorashlyenteredwerecutinpieces。
Thustheywererepulsedatthesouthentranceintothetown;andthoughtheyattemptedtostormthreetimesafterthatwithgreatresolution,yettheywereasoftenbeatenback,andthatwithgreathavocoftheirmen;andthecannonfromthefortallthewhiledidexecutionuponthosewhostooddrawnuptosupportthem;sothatatlast,seeingnogoodtobedone,theyretreated,havingsmalljoyoftheirpretendedvictory。
TheylostinthisactionColonelNeedham,whocommandedaregimentcalledtheTowerGuards,andwhofoughtverydesperately;CaptainCox,anoldexperiencedhorseofficer,andseveralotherofficersofnote,withagreatmanyprivatemen,though,astheyhadthefield,theyconcealedtheirnumber,givingoutthattheylostbutahundred,whenwewereassuredtheylostnearathousandmenbesidesthewounded。
Theytooksomeofourmenprisoners,occasionedbytheregimentofColonelFarr,andtwomoresustainingtheshockoftheirwholearmy,tosecuretheretreatofthemainbody,asabove。
The14th,theLordFairfaxfindinghewasnotabletocarrythetownbystorm,withouttheformalityofasiege,tookhisheadquartersatLexden,andsenttoLondonandtoSuffolkformoreforces;alsoheorderedthetrainedbandstoberaisedandpostedontheroadstopreventsuccours。Notwithstandingwhich,diversgentlemen,withsomeassistanceofmenandarms,foundmeanstogetintothetown。
Theverysamenighttheybegantobreakground,andparticularlytoraiseafortbetweenColchesterandLexden,tocoverthegeneral'squarterfromthesalliesfromthetown;fortheRoyalistshavingagoodbodyofhorse,gavethemnorest,butscouredthefieldseveryday,andfallingallthatwerefoundstragglingfromtheirposts,andbythismeanskilledagreatmany。
The17th,SirCharlesLucashavingbeenoutwith1,200horse,anddetachingpartiestowardtheseaside,andtowardsHarwich,theybroughtinaverygreatquantityofprovisions,andabundanceofsheepandblackcattlesufficientforthesupplyofthetownforaconsiderabletime;andhadnottheSuffolkforcesadvancedoverCatawayBridgetopreventit,alargersupplyhadbeenbroughtinthatway;fornowitappearedplainlythattheLordFairfaxfindingthegarrisonstrongandresolute,andthathewasnotinaconditiontoreducethembyforce,atleastwithoutthelossofmuchblood,hadresolvedtoturnhissiegeintoablockade,andreducethembyhunger;theirtroopsbeingalsowantedtoopposeseveralotherparties,whohad,inseveralpartsofthekingdom,takenarmsfortheking'scause。