shallmaketheladieslaughatthefamousoldstoryoftheFlitchofBaconatDunmow，whichisthis:
OneRobertFitzwalter，apowerfulbaroninthiscountyinthetimeofHenryIII。，onsomemerryoccasion，whichisnotpreservedintherestofthestory，institutedacustomintheprioryhere:Thatwhatevermarriedmandidnotrepentofhisbeingmarried，orquarrelordifferanddisputewithhiswifewithinayearandadayafterhismarriage，andwouldsweartothetruthofit，kneelingupontwohardpointedstonesinthechurchyard，whichstoneshecausedtobesetupinthePriorychurchyardforthatpurpose，thepriorandconvent，andasmanyofthetownaswould，tobepresent，suchpersonshouldhaveaflitchofbacon。
Idonotremembertohavereadthatanyoneevercametodemandit；
nordothepeopleoftheplacepretendtosay，oftheirownknowledge，thattheyrememberanythatdidso。Alongtimeagoseveraldiddemandit，astheysay，buttheyknownotwho；neitheristhereanyrecordofit，nordotheytellus，ifitwerenowtobedemanded，whoisobligedtodelivertheflitchofbacon，thepriorybeingdissolvedandgone。
TheforestofEppingandHainaultspreadsagreatpartofthiscountrystill。Ishallspeakagainoftheformerinmyreturnfromthiscircuit。Formerly，itisthought，thesetwoforeststookupallthewestandsouthpartofthecounty；butparticularlyweareassured，thatitreachedtotheRiverChelmer，andintoDengyHundred，andfromthenceagainwesttoEppingandWaltham，whereitcontinuestobeaforeststill。
ProbablythisforestofEppinghasbeenawildorforesteversincethisislandwasinhabited，andmayshowus，insomepartsofit，whereenclosuresandtillagehasnotbrokeninuponit，whatthefaceofthisislandwasbeforetheRomans'time；thatistosay，beforetheirlandinginBritain。
Theconstitutionofthisforestisbestseen，Imeanastotheantiquityofit，bythemerrygrantofitfromEdwardtheConfessorbeforetheNormanConquesttoRandolphPeperking，oneofhisfavourites，whowasaftercalledPeverell，andwhosenameremainsstillinseveralvillagesinthiscounty；asparticularlythatofHatfieldPeverell，intheroadfromChelmsfordtoWitham，whichissupposedtobeoriginallyapark，whichtheycalledafieldinthosedays；andHartfieldmaybeasmuchastosayaparkfordoer；
forthestagswereinthosedayscalledharts，sothatthiswasneithermorenorlessthanRandolphPeperking'sHartfield-thatistosay，RalphPeverell'sdeer-park。
N。B-ThisRalphRandolph，orRalphPeverellcallhimasyouplease，had，itseems，amostbeautifulladytohiswife，whowasdaughterofIngelrick，oneofEdwardtheConfessor'snoblemen。Hehadtwosonsbyher-WilliamPeverell，afamedsoldier，andlordorgovernorofDoverCastle，whichhesurrenderedtoWilliamtheConqueror，afterthebattleinSussex，andPainPeverell，hisyoungest，whowaslordofCambridge。Whentheeldestsondeliveredupthecastle，thelady，hismother，abovenamed，whowasthecelebratedbeautyoftheage，wasitseemsthere，andtheConquerorfellinlovewithher，andwhetherbyforceorbyconsent，tookheraway，andshebecamehismistress，orwhatelseyoupleasetocallit。Byherhehadason，whowascalledWilliam，aftertheConqueror'sChristianname，butretainedthenameofPeverell，andwasafterwardscreatedbytheConquerorlordofNottingham。
Thisladyafterwards，asissupposed，bywayofpenanceforheryieldingtotheConqueror，foundedanunneryatthevillageofHatfieldPeverell，mentionedabove，andtheresheliesburiedinthechapelofit，whichisnowtheparishchurch，wherehermemoryispreservedbyatombstoneunderoneofthewindows。
Thuswehaveseveraltowns，whereanyancientparkshavebeenplaced，calledbythenameofHatfieldonthatveryaccount。AsHatfieldBroadOakinthiscounty，Bishop'sHatfieldinHertfordshire，andseveralothers。
ButIreturntoKingEdward'smerryway，asIcallit，ofgrantingthisforesttothisRalphPeperking，whichIfindintheancientrecords，intheverywordsitwaspassedin，asfollows。TakemyexplanationswithitforthesakeofthosethatarenotusedtotheancientEnglish:
TheGrantinOldEnglish。
ICheEDWARDKoning，HavegivenofmyForrestthekepenoftheHundredofCHELMERandDANCING。
ToRANDOLPHPEPERKING，Andtohiskindling。
WithHeorteandHind，DoeandBocke，HareandFox，CatandBrock，WildFowlewithhisFlock；
Patrich，PheasantHen，andPheasantCock，WithgreenandwildStubandStock，Tokepenandtoyemenwithallhermight。
BothbyDay，andekebyNight；
AndHoundsfortohold，GoodandSwiftandBold:
FourGreyhoundandsixRaches，ForHareandFox，andWildCattes，AndthereforeIchemadehimmyBook。
WitnesstheBishopofWOLSTON。
AndBookeylredemanyon，AndSWEYNEofESSEX，ourBrother，AndtakenhimmanyotherAndourstewardHOWLEIN，ThatBYSOUGHTmeforhim。
TheExplanationinModernEnglishIEdwardtheking，HavemaderangerofmyforestofChelmsfordhundredandDeeringhundred，RalphPeverell，forhimandhisheirsforever；
Withboththeredandfallowdeer。
Hareandfox，otterandbadger；
Wildfowlofallsorts，Partridgesandpheasants，Timberandunderwoodrootsandtops；
Withpowertopreservetheforest，Andwatchitagainstdeer-stealersandothers:
Witharighttokeephoundsofallsorts，Fourgreyhoundsandsixterriers，Harriersandfoxhounds，andotherhounds。
AndtothisendIhaveregisteredthismygrantinthecrownrollsorbooks；
Towhichthebishophassethishandasawitnessforanyonetoread。
Alsosignedbytheking'sbrotheror，assomethink，theChancellorSweyn，thenEarlorCountofEssex。
Hemightcallsuchotherwitnessestosignashethoughtfit。
Alsotheking'shighstewardwasawitness，atwhoserequestthisgrantwasobtainedoftheking。
Therearemanygentlemen'sseatsonthissidethecountry，andagreatassemblysetupatNewHall，nearthistown，muchresortedtobytheneighbouringgentry。IshallnextproceedtothecountyofSuffolk，asmyfirstdesigndirectedmetodo。
FromHarwich，therefore，havingamindtoviewtheharbour，IsentmyhorsesroundbyManningtree，wherethereisatimberbridgeovertheStour，calledCatawayBridge，andtookaboatuptheRiverOrwellforIpswich。Atravellerwillhardlyunderstandme，especiallyaseaman，whenIspeakoftheRiverStourandtheRiverOrwellatHarwich，fortheyknowthembynoothernamesthanthoseofManningtreewaterandIpswichwater；sowhileIamonsaltwater，Imustspeakasthosewhousetheseamayunderstandme，andwhenIamupinthecountryamongtheinlandtownsagain，Ishallcallthemoutoftheirnamesnomore。
ItistwelvemilesfromHarwichupthewatertoIpswich。BeforeI
cometothetown，Imustsaysomethingofit，becausespeakingoftheriverrequiresit。Informertimes，thatistosay，sincethewriterofthisrememberstheplaceverywell，andparticularlyjustbeforethelateDutchwars，Ipswichwasatownofverygoodbusiness；particularlyitwasthegreatesttowninEnglandforlargecolliersorcoal-shipsemployedbetweenNewcastleandLondon。
Alsotheybuiltthebiggestshipsandthebest，forthesaidfetchingofcoalsofanythatwereemployedinthattrade。Theybuilt，also，theresoprodigiousstrong，thatitwasanordinarythingforanIpswichcollier，ifnodisasterhappenedtohim，toreignasseamencallitfortyorfiftyyears，andmore。
InthetownofIpswichthemastersoftheseshipsgenerallydwelt，andtherewere，astheythentoldme，aboveahundredsailofthem，belongingtothetownatonetime，theleastofwhichcarriedfifteenscore，astheycomputeit，thatis，300chaldronofcoals；
thiswasabouttheyear1668whenIfirstknewtheplace。Thismadethetownbeatthattimesopopulous，forthosemasters，astheyhadgoodshipsatsea，sotheyhadlargefamilieswholivedplentifully，andinverygoodhousesinthetown，andseveralstreetswerechieflyinhabitedbysuch。
ThelossordecayofthistradeaccountsforthepresentpretendeddecayofthetownofIpswich，ofwhichIshallspeakmorepresently。Theshipsworeout，themastersdiedoff，thetradetookanewturn；Dutchflyboatstakeninthewar，andmadefreeshipsbyActofParliament，thrustthemselvesintothecoal-tradefortheinterestofthecaptors，suchastheYarmouthandLondonmerchants，andothers；andtheIpswichmendroppedgraduallyoutofit，beingdiscouragedbythoseDutchflyboats。TheseDutchvessels，whichcostnothingbutthecaption，wereboughtcheap，carriedgreatburthens，andtheIpswichbuildingfelloffforwantofprice，andsothetradedecayed，andthetownwithit。I
believethiswillbeownedforthetruebeginningoftheirdecay，ifImustallowittobecalledadecay。
Buttoreturntomypassageuptheriver。Inthewinter-timethosegreatcollierships，above-mentioned，arealwayslaidup，astheycallit；thatistosay，thecoaltradeabatesatLondon，thecitizensaregenerallyfurnished，theirstorestakenin，andthedemandisover；sothatthegreatships，thenorthernseasandcoastbeingalsodangerous，thenightslong，andthevoyagehazardous，gotoseanomore，butlieby，theshipsareunrigged，thesails，etc。，carriedashore，thetop-mastsstruck，andtheyridemooredintheriver，undertheadvantagesandsecurityofsoundground，andahighwoodyshore，wheretheylieassafeasinawetdock；anditwasaveryagreeablesighttosee，perhapstwohundredsailofships，ofallsizes，lieinthatpostureeverywinter。Allthiswhile，whichwasusuallyfromMichaelmastoLadyDay，themasterslivedcalmandsecurewiththeirfamiliesinIpswich；andenjoyingplentifully，whatinthesummertheygotlaboriouslyatsea，andthismadethetownofIpswichverypopulousinthewinter；forasthemasters，somostofthemen，especiallytheirmates，boatswains，carpenters，etc。，wereofthesameplace，andlivedintheirproportions，justasthemastersdid；sothatinthewintertheremightbeperhapsathousandmeninthetownmorethaninthesummer，andperhapsagreaternumber。
TojustifywhatIadvancehere，thatthistownwasformerlyveryfullofpeople，IaskleavetorefertotheaccountofMr。Camden，andwhatitwasinhistime。Hiswordsarethese:-"Ipswichhasacommodiousharbour，hasbeenfortifiedwithaditchandrampart，hasagreattrade，andisverypopulous，beingadornedwithfourteenchurches，andlargeprivatebuildings。"ThisconfirmswhatIhavementionedoftheformerstateofthistown；butthepresentstateismyproperwork；Ithereforereturntomyvoyageuptheriver。
Thesightoftheseshipsthuslaidupintheriver，asIhavesaid，wasveryagreeabletomeinmypassagefromHarwich，aboutfiveandthirtyyearsbeforethepresentjourney；anditwasinitsproportionequallymelancholytohearthattherewerenowscarcefortysailofgoodcolliersthatbelongedtothewholetown。
Inacreekinthisriver，calledLavingtonCreek，wesawatlowwatersuchshoals，orhillsrather，ofmussels，thatgreatboatsmighthaveloadedwiththem，andnomisshavebeenmadeofthem。
Nearthiscreek，SirSamuelBarnadistonhadaveryfineseat，as，also，adecoyforwildducks，andaverynobleestate；butitisdividedintomanybranchessincethedeathoftheancientpossessor。ButIproceedtothetown，whichisthefirstinthecountyofSuffolkofanynotethisway。
Ipswichisseated，atthedistanceoftwelvemilesfromHarwich，upontheedgeoftheriver，which，takingashortturntothewest，thetownforms，there，akindofsemicircle，orhalfmoon，uponthebankoftheriver。Itisveryremarkable，thatthoughshipsof500
tonmay，uponaspringtide，comeupverynearthistown，andmanyshipsofthatburthenhavebeenbuiltthere，yettheriverisnotnavigableanyfartherthanthetownitself，orbutverylittle；no，notforthesmallestbeats；nordoesthetide，whichrisessometimesthirteenorfourteenfeet，andgivesthemtwenty-fourfeetwaterverynearthetown，flowmuchfartheruptheriverthanthetown，ornotsomuchastomakeitworthspeakingof。
Hetooklittlenoticeofthetown，oratleastofthatpartofIpswich，whopublishedinhiswildobservationsonitthatshipsof200tonarebuiltthere。Iaffirm，thatIhaveseenashipof400
tonlaunchedatthebuilding-yard，closetothetown；andIappealtotheIpswichcolliersthosefewthatremainbelongingtothistown，ifseveralofthemcarryingseventeenscoreofcoals，whichmustbeupwardof400ton，havenotformerlybeenbuilthere；butsuperficialobserversmustbesuperficialwriters，iftheywriteatall；andtothisday，atJohn'sNess，withinamileandahalfofthetownitself，shipsofanyburthenmaybebuiltandlaunchedevenatneaptides。
Iammuchmistaken，too，ifsincetheRevolutionsomeverygoodshipshavenotbeenbuiltatthistown，andparticularlytheMELFORDorMILFORDgalley，ashipoffortyguns；astheGREYHOUND
frigate，aman-of-warofthirty-sixtofortyguns，wasatJohn'sNess。ButwhatisthistowardslesseningthetownofIpswich，anymorethanitwouldbetosay，theydonotbuildmen-of-war，orEastIndiaships，orshipsoffivehundredtonburdenatSt。Catherines，oratBattleBridgeintheThames？whenweknowthatamileortwolower，viz。，atRadcliffe，Limehouse，orDeptford，theybuildshipsofathousandton，andmightbuildfirst-ratemen-of-wartoo，iftherewasoccasion；andthelikemightbedoneinthisriverofIpswich，withinabouttwoorthreemilesofthetown；sothatitwouldnotbeatallanout-of-the-wayspeakingtosay，suchashipwasbuiltatIpswich，anymorethanitistosay，astheydo，thattheROYALPRINCE，thegreatshiplatelybuiltfortheSouthSeaCompany，wasLondonbuilt，becauseshewasbuiltatLimehouse。
AndwhythenisnotIpswichcapableofbuildingandreceivingthegreatestshipsinthenavy，seeingtheymaybebuiltandbroughtupagainladen，withinamileandhalfofthetown？
ButtheneighbourhoodofLondon，whichsucksthevitalsoftradeinthisislandtoitself，isthechiefreasonofanydecayofbusinessinthisplace；andIshall，inthecourseoftheseobservations，hintatit，wheremanygoodseaportsandlargetowns，thoughfartheroffthanIpswich，andaswellfittedforcommerce，areyetswallowedupbytheimmenseindraftoftradetotheCityofLondon；
andmoredecayedbeyondallcomparisonthanIpswichissupposedtobe:asSouthampton，Weymouth，Dartmouth，andseveralotherswhichI
shallspeaktointheirorder；andifitbeotherwiseatthistime，withsomeothertowns，whicharelatelyincreasedintradeandnavigation，wealth，andpeople，whiletheirneighboursdecay，itisbecausetheyhavesomeparticulartrade，oraccidenttotrade，whichisakindofnostrumtothem，inseparabletotheplace，andwhichfixestherebythenatureofthething；astheherring-
fisherytoYarmouth；thecoaltradetoNewcastle；theLeedsclothingtrade；theexportofbutterandlead，andthegreatcorntradeforHolland，istoHull；theVirginiaandWestIndiatradeatLiverpool；theIrishtradeatBristol，andthelike。Thusthewarhasbroughtafluxofbusinessandpeople，andconsequentlyofwealth，toseveralplaces，aswellastoPortsmouth，Chatham，Plymouth，Falmouth，andothers；andwereanywarslikethose，tocontinuetwentyyearswiththeDutch，oranynationwhosefleetslaythatway，astheDutchdo，itwouldbethelikeperhapsatIpswichinafewyears，andatotherplacesonthesamecoast。
Butatthispresenttimeanoccasionofferstospeakinfavourofthisport；namely，theGreenlandfishery，latelyproposedtobecarriedonbytheSouthSeaCompany。OnwhichaccountImayfreelyadvancethis，withoutanycomplimenttothetownofIpswich，noplaceinBritainisequallyqualifiedlikeIpswich；whetherwerespectthecheapnessofbuildingandfittingouttheirshipsandshallops；alsofurnishing，victualling，andprovidingthemwithallkindsofstores；convenienceforlayinguptheshipsafterthevoyage，roomforerectingtheirmagazines，warehouses，ropewalks，cooperages，etc。，ontheeasiestterms；andespeciallyforthenoisomecookery，whichattendstheboilingtheirblubber，whichmaybeonthisriverasitoughttoberemotefromanyplacesofresort。Thentheirnearnesstothemarketfortheoilwhenitismade，andwhich，aboveall，oughttobethechiefthingconsideredinthattrade，theeasinessoftheirputtingouttoseawhentheybegintheirvoyage，inwhichthesamewindthatcarriesthemfromthemouthofthehaven，isfairtotheveryseasofGreenland。
Icouldsaymuchmoretothispointifitwereneedful，andinfewwordscouldeasilyprove，thatIpswichmusthavethepreferenceofalltheporttownsofBritain，forbeingthebestcentreoftheGreenlandtrade，ifeverthattradefallintothemanagementofsuchapeopleasperfectlyunderstand，andhaveaduehonestregardtoitsbeingmanagedwiththebesthusbandry，andtotheprosperityoftheundertakingingeneral。Butwhetherweshalleverarriveatsohappyatimeastorecoversousefulatradetoourcountry，whichourancestorshadthehonourtobethefirstundertakersof，andwhichhasbeenlostonlythroughtheindolenceofothers，andtheincreasingvigilanceofourneighbours，thatisnotmybusinessheretodispute。
WhatIhavesaidisonlytolettheworldseewhatimprovementthistownandportiscapableof；IcannotthinkbutthatProvidence，whichmadenothinginvain，cannothavereservedsouseful，soconvenientaporttolievacantintheworld，butthatthetimewillsometimeorothercomeespeciallyconsideringtheimprovingtemperofthepresentagewhensomepeculiarbeneficialbusinessmaybefoundout，tomaketheportofIpswichasusefultotheworld，andthetownasflourishing，asNaturehasmadeitproperandcapabletobe。
Asforthetown，itistrue，itisbutthinlyinhabited，incomparisonoftheextentofit；buttosaytherearehardlyanypeopletobeseenthere，isfarfrombeingtrueinfact；andwhoeverthinksfittolookintothechurchesandmeeting-housesonaSunday，orotherpublicdays，willfindthereareverygreatnumbersofpeoplethere。Orifhethinksfittoviewthemarket，andseehowthelargeshambles，calledCardinalWolsey'sButchery，arefurnishedwithmeat，andtherestofthemarketstockedwithotherprovisions，mustacknowledgethatitisnotforafewpeoplethatallthosethingsareprovided。Apersonverycurious，andonwhoseveracityIthinkImaydepend，goingthroughthemarketinthistown，toldme，thathereckonedupwardsofsixhundredcountrypeopleonhorsebackandonfoot，withbasketsandothercarriage，whohadallofthembroughtsomethingorothertotowntosell，besidesthebutchers，andwhatcameincartsandwaggons。
Ithappenedtobemylottobeonceatthistownatthetimewhenaveryfinenewship，whichwasbuiltthereforsomemerchantsofLondon，wastobelaunched；andifImaygivemyguessatthenumbersofpeoplewhichappearedontheshore，inthehouses，andontheriver，IbelieveIammuchwithincompassifIsaytherewere20，000peopletoseeit；butthisisonlyaguess，ortheymightcomeagreatwaytoseethesight，orthetownmaybedeclinedfarthersincethat。Butaviewofthetownisoneofthesurestrulesforagrossestimate。
Itistruehereisnosettledmanufacture。TheFrenchrefugeeswhentheyfirstcameovertoEnglandbeganalittletotaketothisplace，andsomemerchantsattemptedtosetupalinenmanufactureintheirfavour；butithasnotmetwithsomuchsuccessaswasexpected，andatpresentIfindverylittleofit。Thepoorpeopleare，however，employed，astheyarealloverthesecounties，inspinningwoolforothertownswheremanufacturesaresettled。
ThecountryroundIpswich，asareallthecountiessonearthecoast，isappliedchieflytocorn，ofwhichaverygreatquantityiscontinuallyshippedoffforLondon；andsometimestheyloadcornhereforHolland，especiallyifthemarketabroadisencouraging。
Theyhavetwelveparishchurchesinthistown，withthreeorfourmeetings；buttherearenotsomanyQuakershereasatColchester，andnoAnabaptistsorAntipoedoBaptists，thatIcouldhearof-atleast，thereisnomeeting-houseofthatdenomination。Thereisonemeeting-houseforthePresbyterians，onefortheIndependentsandonefortheQuakers；thefirstisaslargeandasfineabuildingofthatkindasmostonthissideofEngland，andtheinsidethebestfinishedofanyIhaveseen，Londonnotexcepted；
thatfortheIndependentsisahandsomenew-builtbuilding，butnotsogayorsolargeastheother。
Thereisagreatdealofverygoodcompanyinthistown，andthoughtherearenotsomanyofthegentryhereasatBury，yettherearemoreherethaninanyothertowninthecounty；andIobservedparticularlythatthecompanyyoumeetwithherearegenerallypersonswellinformedoftheworld，andwhohavesomethingverysolidandentertainingintheirsociety。Thismayhappen，perhaps，bytheirfrequentconversingwiththosewhohavebeenabroad，andbytheirhavingaremnantofgentlemenandmastersofshipsamongthemwhohaveseenmoreoftheworldthanthepeopleofaninlandtownarelikelytohaveseen。ItakethistowntobeoneofthemostagreeableplacesinEnglandforfamilieswhohavelivedwell，butmayhavesufferedinourlatecalamitiesofstocksandbubbles，toretreatto，wheretheymaylivewithintheirowncompass；andseveralthingsindeedrecommendittosuch:-
1。Goodhousesatveryeasyrents。
2。Anairy，clean，andwell-governedtown。
3。Veryagreeableandimprovingcompanyalmostofeverykind。
4。Awonderfulplentyofallmannerofprovisions，whetherfleshorfish，andverygoodofthekind。
5。Thoseprovisionsverycheap，sothatafamilymaylivecheaperherethaninanytowninEnglandofitsbignesswithinsuchasmalldistancefromLondon。
6。EasypassagetoLondon，eitherbylandorwater，thecoachgoingthroughtoLondoninaday。
TheLordViscountHerefordhasaveryfineseatandparkinthistown；thehouseindeedisoldbuilt，butverycommodious；itiscalledChristChurch，havingbeen，asitissaid，aprioryorreligioushouseinformertimes。Thegreenandparkisagreatadditiontothepleasantnessofthistown，theinhabitantsbeingallowedtodivertthemselvestherewithwalking，bowling，etc。
Thelargespiresteeple，whichformerlystooduponthattheycallthetowerchurch，wasblowndownbyagreatstormofwindmanyyearsago，andinitsafalldidmuchdamagetothechurch。
Thegovernmentofthistownisbytwobailiffs，asatYarmouth。
Mr。Camdensaystheyarechosenoutoftwelveburgessescalledportmen，andtwojusticesoutoftwenty-fourmore。Therehasbeenlatelyaverygreatstrugglebetweenthetwopartiesforthechoiceofthesetwomagistrates，whichhadthisamicableconclusion-
namely，thattheychoseoneofeitherside；sothatneitherpartyhavingthevictory，itistobehopeditmaybeameanstoallaytheheatsandunneighbourlyfeudswhichsuchthingsbreedintownssolargeasthisis。TheysendtwomemberstoParliament，whereofthoseatthistimeareSirWilliamThompson，RecorderofLondon，andColonelNegus，DeputyMasteroftheHorsetotheking。
Therearesomethingsverycurioustobeseenhere，howeversomesuperficialwritershavebeenignorantofthem。Dr。Beeston，aneminentphysician，beganafewyearsagoaphysicgardenadjoiningtohishouseinthistown；andasheisparticularlycurious，and，asIwastold，exquisitelyskilledinbotanicknowledge，sohehasbeennotonlyverydiligent，butsuccessfultoo，inmakingacollectionofrareandexoticplants，suchasarescarcetobeequalledinEngland。
OneMr。White，asurgeon，residesalsointhistown。ButbeforeI
speakofthisgentleman，ImustobservethatIsaynothingfrompersonalknowledge；thoughifIdid，Ihavetoogoodanopinionofhissensetobelievehewouldbepleasedwithbeingflatteredorcomplimentedinprint。ButImustbetruetomatteroffact。Thisgentlemanhasbegunacollectionorchamberofrarities，andwithgoodsuccesstoo。IacknowledgeIhadnottheopportunityofseeingthem；butIwastoldtherearesomethingsverycuriousinit，asparticularlyasea-horsecarefullypreserved，andperfectinallitsparts；twoRomanurnsfullofashesofhumanbodies，andsupposedtobeabove1，700yearsold；besidesagreatmanyvaluablemedalsandancientcoins。Myfriendwhogavemethisaccount，andofwhomIthinkImaysayhespeakswithoutbias，mentionsthisgentleman，Mr。White，withsomewarmthasaveryvaluablepersoninhisparticularemployofasurgeon。Ionlyrepeathiswords。"Mr。
White，"sayshe，"towhomthewholetownandcountryaregreatlyindebtedandobligedtoprayforhislife，isourmostskilfulsurgeon。"These，Isay，arehisownwords，andIaddnothingtothembutthis，thatitishappyforatowntohavesuchasurgeon，asitisforasurgeontohavesuchacharacter。
ThecountryroundIpswich，asifqualifiedonpurposetoaccommodatethetownforbuildingofships，isaninexhaustiblestore-houseoftimber，ofwhich，nowtheirtradeofbuildingshipsisabated，theysendverygreatquantitiestotheking'sbuilding-
yardsatChatham，whichbywaterissolittleawaythattheyoftenruntoitfromthemouthoftheriveratHarwichinonetide。
FromIpswichItookaturnintothecountrytoHadleigh，principallytosatisfymycuriosityandseetheplacewherethatfamousmartyrandpatternofcharityandreligiouszealinQueenMary'stime，Dr。RowlandTaylor，wasputtodeath。Theinhabitants，whohaveawonderfulvenerationforhismemory，showtheveryplacewherethestakewhichhewasboundtowassetup，andtheyhaveputastoneuponitwhichnobodywillremove；butitisamorelastingmonumenttohimthathelivesintheheartsofthepeople-Isaymorelastingthanatombofmarblewouldbe，forthememoryofthatgoodmanwillcertainlyneverbeoutofthepoorpeople'smindsaslongasthisislandshallretaintheProtestantreligionamongthem。Howlongthatmaybe，asthingsaregoing，andifthedetestableconspiracyofthePapistsnowonfootshouldsucceed，Iwillnotpretendtosay。
AlittletotheleftisSudbury，whichstandsupontheRiverStour，mentionedabove-ariverwhichpartsthecountiesofSuffolkandEssex，andwhichiswithinthesefewyearsmadenavigabletothistown，thoughthenavigationdoesnot，itseems，answerthecharge，atleastnottoadvantage。
Iknownothingforwhichthistownisremarkable，exceptforbeingverypopulousandverypoor。Theyhaveagreatmanufactureofsaysandperpetuanas，andmultitudesofpoorpeopleareemployedinworkingthem；butthenumberofthepoorisalmostreadytoeatuptherich。However，thistownsendstwomemberstoParliament，thoughitisundernoformofgovernmentparticularlytoitselfotherthanasavillage，theheadmagistratewhereofisaconstable。
NearadjoiningtoitisavillagecalledLongMelfort，andaverylongoneitis，fromwhichIsupposeithadthatadditiontoitsname；itisfullofverygoodhouses，and，astheytoldme，isricher，andhasmorewealthymastersofthemanufactureinit，thaninSudburyitself。
Hereandintheneighbourhoodaresomeancientfamiliesofgoodnote；particularlyhereisafinedwelling，theancientseatoftheCordells，whereofSirWilliamCordellwasMasteroftheRollsinthetimeofQueenElizabeth；butthefamilyisnowextinct，thelastheir，SirJohnCordell，beingkilledbyafallfromhishorse，diedunmarried，leavingthreesistersco-heiressestoaverynobleestate，mostofwhich，ifnotall，isnowcentredontheonlysurvivingsister，andwithherinmarriageisgiventoMr。
Firebrass，eldestsonofSirBasilFirebrass，formerlyaflourishingmerchantinLondon，butreducedbymanydisasters。Hisfamilynowrisesbythegoodfortuneofhisson，whoprovestobeagentlemanofveryagreeableparts，andwellesteemedinthecountry。
Fromthispartofthecountry，Ireturnednorth-westbyLenham，tovisitSt。Edmund'sBury，atownofwhichotherwritershavetalkedverylargely，andperhapsalittletoomuch。Itisatownfamedforitspleasantsituationandwholesomeair，theMontpelierofSuffolk，andperhapsofEngland。Thismustbeattributedtotheskillofthemonksofthosetimes，whochosesobeautifulasituationfortheseatoftheirretirement；andwhobuiltherethegreatestand，initstime，themostflourishingmonasteryinallthesepartsofEngland，ImeanthemonasteryofSt。EdmundtheMartyr。Itwas，ifwebelieveantiquity，ahouseofpleasureinmoreancienttimes，ortospeakmoreproperly，acourtofsomeoftheSaxonorEastAnglekings；and，asMr。Camdensays，waseventhencalledaroyalvillage，thoughitmuchbettermeritsthatnamenow；itbeingthetownofallthispartofEngland，inproportiontoitsbigness，mostthrongedwithgentry，peopleofthebestfashion，andthemostpoliteconversation。Thisbeautyandhealthinessofitssituationwasnodoubttheoccasionwhichdrewtheclergytosettlehere，fortheyalwayschosethebestplacesinthecountrytobuildin，eitherforrichnessofsoil，orforhealthandpleasureinthesituationoftheirreligioushouses。
Forthelikereason，Idoubtnot，theytranslatedthebonesofthemartyredkingSt。Edmundtothisplace；foritisavulgarerrortosayhewasmurderedhere。Hismartyrdom，itisplain，wasatHoxonorHenilsdon，nearHarlston，ontheWaveney，inthefarthestnorthernvergeofthecounty；butSegebert，kingoftheEastAngles，hadbuiltareligionshouseinthispleasantrichpartofthecounty；andasthemonksbegantotastethepleasureoftheplace，theyprocuredthebodyofthissainttoberemovedhither，whichsoonincreasedthewealthandrevenuesoftheirhouse，bythezealofthatday，ingoingonpilgrimagetotheshrineoftheblessedSt。Edmund。
Weread，however，thatafterthistheDanes，underKingSweno，over-runningthispartofthecountry，destroyedthismonasteryandburntittotheground，withthechurchandtown。Butseetheturnreligiongivestothingsintheworld；hisson，KingCanutus，atfirstaPaganandatyrant，andthemostcruelravagerofallthatcrew，comingtoturnChristian，andbeingtouchedinconscienceforthesoulofhisfather，inhavingrobbedGodandhisholymartyrSt。Edmund，sacrilegiouslydestroyingthechurch，andplunderingthemonastery；Isay，touchedwithremorse，and，asthemonkspretend，terrifiedwithavisionofSt。Edmundappearingtohim，herebuiltthehouse，thechurch，andthetownalso，andverymuchaddedtothewealthoftheabbotandhisfraternity，offeringhiscrownatthefeetofSt。Edmund，givingthehousetothemonks，townandall；sothattheywereabsolutelordsofthetown，andgoverneditbytheirstewardformanyages。Healsogavethemagreatmanygoodlordships，whichtheyenjoyedtillthegeneralsuppressionofabbeys，inthetimeofHenryVIII。
ButIamneitherwritingthehistoryorsearchingtheantiquityoftheabbey，ortown；mybusinessisthepresentstateoftheplace。
Theabbeyisdemolished；itsruinsareallthatistobeseenofitsglory:outoftheoldbuilding，twoverybeautifulchurchesarebuilt，andservethetwoparishes，intowhichthetownisdivided，andtheystandbothinonechurchyard。Hereitwas，inthepath-
waybetweenthesetwochurches，thatatragicalandalmostunheard-
ofactofbarbaritywascommitted，whichmadetheplacelesspleasantforsometimethanitusedtobe，whenArundelCoke，Esq。，abarrister-at-law，ofaveryancientfamily，attempted，withtheassistanceofabarbarousassassin，tomurderincoldblood，andinthearmsofhospitality，EdwardCrisp，Esq。，hisbrother-in-law，leadinghimoutfromhisownhouse，wherehehadinvitedhim，hiswifeandchildren，tosupper；Isay，leadinghimoutinthenight，onpretenceofgoingtoseesomefriendthatwasknowntothemboth；butinthischurchyard，givingasignaltotheassassinhehadhired，heattackedhimwithahedge-bill，andcuthim，asonemightsay，almostinpieces；andwhentheydidnotdoubtofhisbeingdead，theylefthim。Hisheadandfacewassomangled，thatitmaybesaidtobenexttoamiraclethathewasnotquitekilled:yetsoProvidencedirectedfortheexemplarypunishmentoftheassassins，thatthegentlemanrecoveredtodetectthem，whothoughheoutlivedtheassaultwerebothexecutedastheydeserved，andMr。Crispisyetalive。Theywerecondemnedonthestatutefordefacinganddismembering，calledtheCoventryAct。
ButthisaccidentdoesnotatalllessenthepleasureandagreeabledelightfulshowofthetownofBury；itiscrowdedwithnobilityandgentry，andallsortsofthemostagreeablecompany；andasthecompanyinvites，sothereistheappearanceofpleasureupontheverysituation；andtheythatliveatBuryaresupposedtolivethereforthesakeofit。
TheLordJermin，afterwardsLordDover，and，sincehislordship'sdecease，SirRobertDavers，enjoyedthemostdeliciousseatofRushbrook，nearthistown。
ThepresentmembersofParliamentforthisplaceareJermynDaversandJamesReynolds，Esquires。
Mr。Harvey，afterwardscreatedLordHarvey，byKingWilliam，andsincethatmadeEarlofBristolbyKingGeorge，livedmanyyearsinthistown，leavinganobleandpleasantlysituatedhouseinLincolnshire，forthemoreagreeablelivingonaspotsocompletelyqualifiedforalifeofdelightasthisofBury。
TheDukeofGrafton，nowLord-LieutenantofIreland，hasalsoastatelyhouseatEuston，nearthistown，whichheenjoysinrightofhismother，daughtertotheEarlofArlington，oneofthechiefministersofStateinthereignofKingCharlesII。，andwhomadethesecondletterintheword"cabal，"awordformedbythatfamoussatiristAndrewMarvell，torepresentthefiveheadsofthepoliticsofthattime，astheword"smectymnus"wasonaformeroccasion。
Ishallbelievenothingsoscandalousoftheladiesofthistownandthecountryrounditasalatewriterinsinuates。ThattheladiesroundthecountryappearmightygayandagreeableatthetimeofthefairinthistownIacknowledge；onehardlyseessuchashowinanypartoftheworld；buttosuggesttheycomehither，astoamarket，issocoarseajest，thatthegentlementhatwaitonthemhitherfortheyrarelycomebutingoodcompanyoughttoresentandcorrecthimforit。
Itistrue，BuryFair，likeBartholomewFair，isafairfordiversion，morethanfortrade；anditmaybeafairfortoysandfortrinkets，whichtheladiesmaythinkfittolayoutsomeoftheirmoneyin，astheyseeoccasion。Buttojudgefromthencethattheknights'daughtersofNorfolk，Cambridgeshire，andSuffolk-thatistosay，foritcannotbeunderstoodanyotherwise，thedaughtersofallthegentryofthethreecounties-comehithertobepickedup，isawayofspeakingIneverbeforeheardanyauthorhavetheassurancetomakeuseofinprint。
Theassemblyhejustlycommendsforthebrightappearanceofthebeauties；butwithastinginthetailofthiscompliment，wherehesaystheyseldomendwithoutsomeconsiderablematchorintrigue；
andyetheownsthatduringthefairtheseassembliesareheldeverynight。Nowthatthesefineladiesgointriguingeverynight，andthattooafterthecomedyisdone，whichisafterthefairandrafflingisoverfortheday，sothatitmustbeverylate。ThisisaterriblecharacterfortheladiesofBury，andintimates，inshort，thatmostofthemareloosewomen，whichisahorridabuseuponthewholecountry。
Now，thoughIlikenottheassembliesatall，andshallinanotherplacegivethemsomethingoftheirdue，yethavingtheopportunitytoseethefairatBury，andtoseethattherewere，indeed，abundanceofthefinestladies，orasfineasanyinBritain，yetI
mustownthenumberoftheladiesatthecomedy，orattheassembly，isnowayequaltothenumberthatareseeninthetown，muchlessaretheyequaltothewholebodyoftheladiesinthethreecounties；andImustalsoadd，thatthoughitisfarfromtruethatallthatappearattheassemblyarethereformatchesorintrigues，yetIwillventuretosaythattheyarenottheworstoftheladieswhostayaway，neitheraretheythefewestinnumberorthemeanestinbeauty，butjustthecontrary；andIdonotatalldoubt，butthatthescandalouslibertysometakeatthoseassemblieswillintimebringthemoutofcreditwiththevirtuouspartofthesexhere，asithasdonealreadyinKentandotherplaces，andthatthoseladieswhomostvaluetheirreputationwillbeseenlesstherethantheyhavebeen；forthoughtheinstitutionofthemhasbeeninnocentandvirtuous，theilluseofthem，andthescandalousbehaviourofsomepeopleatthem，willintimearmvirtueagainstthem，andtheywillbelaiddownastheyhavebeensetupwithoutmuchsatisfaction。
Butthebeautyofthistownconsistsinthenumberofgentrywhodwellinandnearit，thepoliteconversationamongthem，theaffluenceandplentytheylivein，thesweetairtheybreathein，andthepleasantcountrytheyhavetogoabroadin。
Hereisnomanufacturinginthistown，orbutverylittle，exceptspinning，thechieftradeoftheplacedependinguponthegentrywholivethere，ornearit，andwhocannotfailtocausetradeenoughbytheexpenseoftheirfamiliesandequipagesamongthepeopleofacountytown。Theyhavebutaverysmallriver，orratherbutaverysmallbranchofasmallriver，atthistown，whichrunsfromhencetoMildenHall，ontheedgeofthefens。
However，thetownandgentlemenabouthavebeenatthecharge，orhavesoencouragedtheengineerwhowasatthecharge，thattheyhavemadethisrivernavigabletothesaidMildenHall，fromwhencethereisanavigabledyke，calledMildenHallDrain，whichgoesintotheRiverOuse，andsotoLynn；sothatalltheircoalandwine，iron，lead，andotherheavygoods，arebroughtbywaterfromLynn，orfromLondon，bythewayofLynn，tothegreateaseofthetradesmen。
Thistownisfamousfortwogreatevents。Onewasthatintheyear1447，inthe25thyearofHenryVI。，aParliamentwasheldhere。
Theotherwas，thatatthemeetingofthisParliament，thegreatHumphrey，DukeofGloucester，regentofthekingdomduringtheabsenceofKingHenryV。andtheminorityofHenryVI。，andtohislasthourthesafeguardofthewholenation，anddarlingofthepeople，wasbaselymurderedhere；bywhosedeaththegatewasopenedtothatdreadfulwarbetweenthehousesofLancasterandYork，whichendedintheconfusionofthatveryracewhoaresupposedtohavecontrivedthatmurder。
FromSt。Edmund'sBuryIreturnedbyStowmarketandNeedhamtoIpswich，thatImightkeepasnearthecoastaswaspropertomydesignedcircuitorjourney；andfromIpswich，tovisittheseaagain，IwenttoWoodbridge，andfromthencetoOrford，ontheseaside。
Woodbridgehasnothingremarkable，butthatitisaconsiderablemarketforbutterandcorntobeexportedtoLondon；fornowbeginsthatpartwhichisordinarilycalledHighSuffolk，which，beingarichsoil，isforalongtractofgroundwhollyemployedindairies，andtheyagainfamousforthebestbutter，andperhapstheworstcheese，inEngland。Thebutterisbarrelled，oroftenpickledupinsmallcasks，andsold，notinLondononly，butIhaveknownafirkinofSuffolkbuttersenttotheWestIndies，andbroughtbacktoEnglandagain，andhasbeenperfectlygoodandsweet，asatfirst。
TheportfortheshippingofftheirSuffolkbutterischieflyWoodbridge，whichforthatreasonisfullofcornfactorsandbutterfactors，someofwhomareveryconsiderablemerchants。
Fromhence，turningdowntotheshore，weseeOrfordness，anotedpointoflandfortheguideofthecolliersandcoasters，andagoodshelterforthemtorideunderwhenastrongnorth-eastwindblowsandmakesafoulshoreonthecoast。
SouthoftheNessisOrfordHaven，beingthemouthoftwolittleriversmeetingtogether。Itisaverygoodharbourforsmallvessels，butnotcapableofreceivingashipofburden。
Orfordwasonceagoodtown，butisdecayed，andasitstandsonthelandsideoftherivertheseadailythrowsupmorelandtoit，andfallsoffitselffromit，asifitwasresolvedtodisowntheplace，andthatitshouldbeaseaportnolonger。
AlittlefartherliesAldborough，asthriving，thoughwithoutaport，astheotherisdecaying，withagoodriverinthefrontofit。
Therearesomegentlemen'sseatsupfartherfromthesea，butveryfewuponthecoast。
FromAldboroughtoDunwichtherearenotownsofnote；eventhistownseemstobeindangerofbeingswallowedup，forfamereportsthatoncetheyhadfiftychurchesinthetown；Isawbutoneleft，andthatnothalffullofpeople。
Thistownisatestimonyofthedecayofpublicthings，thingsofthemostdurablenature；andastheoldpoetexpressesit，"Bynumerousexampleswemaysee，Thattownsandcitiesdieaswellaswe。"