Whenwehadgoneabouttwohundredyards，andstoppedtorest，IglancedtotheleftwhileIwaslightingmypipe，andinthedistancedetectedalongwormofblacksmokecrawlinglazilyupthesteepmountain。Ofcoursethatwasthelocomotive。Weproppedourselvesonourelbowsatonce，togaze，forwehadneverseenamountainrailwayyet。
　　Presentlywecouldmakeoutthetrain。Itseemedincrediblethatthatthingshouldcreepstraightupasharpslantliketheroofofahouse——butthereitwas，anditwasdoingthatverymiracle。
　　Inthecourseofacouplehourswereachedafinebreezyaltitudewherethelittleshepherdhutshadbigstonesallovertheirroofstoholdthemdowntotheearthwhenthegreatstormsrage。Thecountrywaswildandrockyabouthere，buttherewereplentyoftrees，plentyofmoss，andgrass。
　　Awayoffontheoppositeshoreofthelakewecouldseesomevillages，andnowforthefirsttimewecouldobservetherealdifferencebetweentheirproportionsandthoseofthegiantmountainsatwhosefeettheyslept。
　　Whenoneisinoneofthosevillagesitseemsspacious，anditshousesseemhighandnotoutofproportiontothemountainthatoverhandsthem——butfromouraltitude，whatachange!Themountainswerebiggerandgranderthanever，astheystoodtherethinkingtheirsolemnthoughtswiththeirheadsinthedriftingclouds，butthevillagesattheirfeet——whenthepainstakingeyecouldtracethemupandfindthem——weresoreduced，almostinvisible，andlaysoflatagainsttheground，thattheexactestsimileIcandeviseistocomparethemtoant-depositsofgranulateddirtovershadowedbythehugebulkofacathedral。Thesteamboatsskimmingalongunderthestupendousprecipiceswerediminishedbydistancetothedaintiestlittletoys，thesailboatsandrowboatstoshallopsproperforfairiesthatkeephouseinthecupsofliliesandridetocourtonthebacksofbumblebees。
　　Presentlywecameuponhalfadozensheepnibblinggrassinthesprayofastreamofclearwaterthatsprangfromarockwallahundredfeethigh，andallatonceourearswerestartledwithamelodious"Lul……
　　l……lllllul-lul-LAhee-o-o-o!"pealingjoyouslyfromanearbutinvisiblesource，andrecognizedthatwewerehearingforthefirsttimethefamousAlpineJODEL
　　initsownnativewilds。Andwerecognized，also，thatitwasthatsortofquaintcomminglingofbaritoneandfalsettowhichathomewecall"Tyrolesewarbling。"
　　ThejodelingpronouncedyOdling——emphasisontheO
　　continued，andwasverypleasantandinspiritingtohear。
　　Nowthejodelerappeared——ashepherdboyofsixteen——
　　andinourgladnessandgratitudewegavehimafranctojodelsomemore。Sohejodeledandwelistened。
　　Wemovedon，presently，andhegenerouslyjodeledusoutofsight。Afteraboutfifteenminuteswecameacrossanothershepherdboywhowasjodeling，andgavehimhalfafranctokeepitup。Healsojodeledusoutofsight。
　　Afterthat，wefoundajodelereverytenminutes；
　　wegavethefirstoneeightcents，thesecondonesixcents，thethirdonefour，thefourthoneapenny，contributednothingtoNos。5，6，and7，andduringtheremainderofthedayhiredtherestofthejodelers，atafrancapiece，nottojodelanymore。ThereissomewhattoomuchofthejodelingintheAlps。
　　AboutthemiddleoftheafternoonwepassedthroughaprodigiousnaturalgatewaycalledtheFelsenthor，formedbytwoenormousuprightrocks，withathirdlyingacrossthetop。Therewasaveryattractivelittlehotelcloseby，butourenergieswerenotconqueredyet，sowewenton。
　　Threehoursafterwardwecametotherailway-track。Itwasplantedstraightupthemountainwiththeslantofaladderthatleansagainstahouse，anditseemedtousthatmanwouldneedgoodnerveswhoproposedtotravelupitordowniteither。
　　Duringthelatterpartoftheafternoonwecooledourroastinginteriorswithice-coldwaterfromclearstreams，theonlyreallysatisfyingwaterwehadtastedsincewelefthome，foratthehotelsonthecontinenttheymerelygiveyouatumbleroficetosoakyourwaterin，andthatonlymodifiesitshotness，doesn'tmakeitcold。
　　Watercanonlybemadecoldenoughforsummercomfortbybeingpreparedinarefrigeratororaclosedice-pitcher。
　　Europeanssayice-waterimpairsdigestion。Howdotheyknow?——theyneverdrinkany。
　　AttenminutespastsixwereachedtheKaltbadstation，wherethereisaspacioushotelwithgreatverandaswhichcommandamajesticexpanseoflakeandmountainscenery。
　　Wewereprettywellfaggedout，now，butaswedidnotwishtomisstheAlpinesunrise，wegotthroughourdinnerasquicklyaspossibleandhurriedofftobed。
　　Itwasunspeakablycomfortabletostretchourwearylimbsbetweenthecool，dampsheets。Andhowwedidsleep!——forthereisnoopiatelikeAlpinepedestrianism。
　　Inthemorningwebothawokeandleapedoutofbedatthesameinstantandranandstrippedasidethewindow-curtains；
　　butwesufferedabitterdisappointmentagain:itwasalreadyhalfpastthreeintheafternoon。
　　Wedressedsullenlyandinillspirits，eachaccusingtheotherofoversleeping。Harrissaidifwehadbroughtthecourieralong，asweoughttohavedone，weshouldnothavemissedthesesunrises。Isaidheknewverywellthatoneofuswouldhavetositupandwakethecourier；
　　andIaddedthatwewerehavingtroubleenoughtotakecareofourselves，onthisclimb，withouthavingtotakecareofacourierbesides。
　　Duringbreakfastourspiritscameupalittle，sincewefoundbythisguide-bookthatinthehotelsonthesummitthetouristisnotlefttotrusttoluckforhissunrise，butisrousedbetimesbyamanwhogoesthroughthehallswithagreatAlpinehorn，blowingblaststhatwouldraisethedead。Andtherewasanotherconsolingthing:
　　theguide-booksaidthatupthereonthesummittheguestsdidnotwaittodressmuch，butseizedaredbedblanketandsailedoutarrayedlikeanIndian。Thiswasgood；
　　thiswouldberomantic；twohundredandfiftypeoplegroupedonthewindysummit，withtheirhairflyingandtheirredblanketsflapping，inthesolemnpresenceofthecomingsun，wouldbeastrikingandmemorablespectacle。
　　Soitwasgoodluck，notillluck，thatwehadmissedthoseothersunrises。
　　Wewereinformedbytheguide-bookthatwewerenow3，228feetabovethelevelofthelake——thereforefulltwo-thirdsofourjourneyhadbeenaccomplished。
　　Wegotawayataquarterpastfour，P。M。；ahundredyardsabovethehoteltherailwaydivided；onetrackwentstraightupthesteephill，theotheroneturnedsquareofftotheright，withaveryslightgrade。Wetookthelatter，andfolloweditmorethanamile，turnedarockycorner，andcameinsightofahandsomenewhotel。
　　Ifwehadgoneon，weshouldhavearrivedatthesummit，butHarrispreferredtoaskalotofquestions——asusual，ofamanwhodidn'tknowanything——andhetoldustogobackandfollowtheotherroute。Wedidso。Wecouldillaffordthislossoftime。
　　Weclimbedandclimbed；andwekeptonclimbing；wereachedaboutfortysummits，buttherewasalwaysanotheronejustahead。
　　Itcameontorain，anditrainedindeadearnest。
　　Weweresoakedthroughanditwasbittercold。Nextasmokyfogofcloudscoveredthewholeregiondensely，andwetooktotherailway-tiestokeepfromgettinglost。
　　Sometimeswesloppedalonginanarrowpathontheleft-handsideofthetrack，butbyandbywhenthefogblewasasidealittleandwesawthatweweretreadingtherampartofaprecipiceandthatourleftelbowswereprojectingoveraperfectlyboundlessandbottomlessvacancy，wegasped，andjumpedforthetiesagain。
　　Thenightshutdown，darkanddrizzlyandcold。
　　Abouteightintheeveningthefogliftedandshowedusawell-wornpathwhichledupaverysteeprisetotheleft。
　　Wetookit，andassoonaswehadgotfarenoughfromtherailwaytorenderthefindingitagainanimpossibility，thefogshutdownonusoncemore。
　　Wewereinableak，unshelteredplace，now，andhadtotrudgerightalong，inordertokeepwarm，thoughweratherexpectedtogooveraprecipice，soonerorlater。
　　Aboutnineo'clockwemadeanimportantdiscovery——
　　thatwewerenotinanypath。Wegropedaroundawhileonourhandsandknees，butwecouldnotfindit；
　　sowesatdowninthemudandthewetscantgrasstowait。
　　Wewereterrifiedintothisbybeingsuddenlyconfrontedwithavastbodywhichshoweditselfvaguelyforaninstantandinthenextinstantwassmotheredinthefogagain。
　　Itwasreallythehotelwewereafter，monstrouslymagnifiedbythefog，butwetookitforthefaceofaprecipice，anddecidednottotrytoclawupit。
　　Wesatthereanhour，withchatteringteethandquiveringbodies，andquarreledoverallsortsoftrifles，butgavemostofourattentiontoabusingeachotherforthestupidityofdesertingtherailway-track。Wesatwithourbackstotheprecipice，becausewhatlittlewindtherewascamefromthatquarter。Atsometimeorotherthefogthinnedalittle；wedidnotknowwhen，forwewerefacingtheemptyuniverseandthethinnesscouldnotshow；
　　butatlastHarrishappenedtolookaround，andtherestoodahuge，dim，spectralhotelwheretheprecipicehadbeen。
　　Onecouldfaintlydiscernthewindowsandchimneys，andadullbluroflights。Ourfirstemotionwasdeep，unutterablegratitude，ournextwasafoolishrage，bornofthesuspicionthatpossiblythehotelhadbeenvisiblethree-quartersofanhourwhilewesatthereinthosecoldpuddlesquarreling。
　　Yes，itwastheRigi-Kulmhotel——theonethatoccupiestheextremesummit，andwhoseremotelittlesparkleoflightswehadoftenseenglintinghighaloftamongthestarsfromourbalconyawaydownyonderinLucerne。
　　Thecrustyportierandthecrustyclerksgaveusthesurlyreceptionwhichtheirkinddealoutinprosperoustimes，butbymollifyingthemwithanextradisplayofobsequiousnessandservilitywefinallygotthemtoshowustotheroomwhichourboyhadengagedforus。
　　Wegotintosomedryclothing，andwhileoursupperwaspreparingweloafedforsakenlythroughacoupleofvastcavernousdrawing-rooms，oneofwhichhadastoveinit。
　　Thisstovewasinacorner，anddenselywalledaroundwithpeople。Wecouldnotgetnearthefire，sowemovedatlargeinthearticspaces，amongamultitudeofpeoplewhosatsilent，smileless，forlorn，andshivering——thinkingwhatfoolstheyweretocome，perhaps。ThereweresomeAmericansandsomeGermans，butonecouldseethatthegreatmajoritywereEnglish。
　　Weloungedintoanapartmentwheretherewasagreatcrowd，toseewhatwasgoingon。Itwasamemento-magazine。
　　Thetouristswereeagerlybuyingallsortsandstylesofpaper-cutters，marked"SouveniroftheRigi，"withhandlesmadeofthelittlecurvedhornoftheostensiblechamois；
　　therewereallmannerofwoodengobletsandsuchthings，similarlymarked。Iwasgoingtobuyapaper-cutter，butI
　　believedIcouldrememberthecoldcomfortoftheRigi-Kulmwithoutit，soIsmotheredtheimpulse。
　　Supperwarmedus，andwewentimmediatelytobed——butfirst，asMr。Baedekerrequestsalltouriststocallhisattentiontoanyerrorswhichtheymayfindinhisguide-books，I
　　droppedhimalinetoinformhimhemisseditbyjustaboutthreedays。IhadpreviouslyinformedhimofhismistakeaboutthedistancefromAllerheiligentoOppenau，andhadalsoinformedtheOrdnanceDepartoftheGermangovernmentofthesameerrorintheimperialmaps。
　　Iwilladd，here，thatInevergotanyanswertothoseletters，oranythanksfromeitherofthosesources；and，whatisstillmorediscourteous，thesecorrectionshavenotbeenmade，eitherinthemapsortheguide-books。ButIwillwriteagainwhenIgettime，formylettersmayhavemiscarried。
　　Wecurledupintheclammybeds，andwenttosleepwithoutrocking。
　　WeweresosoddenwithfatiguethatweneverstirrednorturnedovertillthebloomingblastsoftheAlpinehornarousedus。Itmaywellbeimaginedthatwedidnotloseanytime。Wesnatchedonafewoddsandendsofclothing，cocoonedourselvesintheproperredblankets，andplungedalongthehallsandoutintothewhistlingwindbareheaded。
　　Wesawatallwoodenscaffoldingontheverypeakofthesummit，ahundredyardsaway，andmadeforit。
　　Werushedupthestairstothetopofthisscaffolding，andstoodthere，abovethevastoutlyingworld，withhairflyingandruddyblanketswavingandcrackinginthefiercebreeze。
　　"Fifteenminutestoolate，atlast!"saidHarris，inavexedvoice。"Thesunisclearabovethehorizon。"
　　"Nomatter，"Isaid，"itisamostmagnificentspectacle，andwewillseeitdotherestofitsrisinganyway。"
　　Inamomentweweredeeplyabsorbedinthemarvelbeforeus，anddeadtoeverythingelse。Thegreatcloud-barreddiskofthesunstoodjustabovealimitlessexpanseoftossingwhite-caps——sotospeak——abillowychaosofmassymountaindomesandpeaksdrapedinimperishablesnow，andfloodedwithanopalinegloryofchanginganddissolvingsplendors，whilethroughriftsinablackcloud-bankabovethesun，radiatinglancesofdiamonddustshottothezenith。
　　Theclovenvalleysofthelowerworldswaminatintedmistwhichveiledtheruggednessoftheircragsandribsandraggedforests，andturnedalltheforbiddingregionintoasoftandrichandsensuousparadise。
　　Wecouldnotspeak。Wecouldhardlybreathe。
　　Wecouldonlygazeindrunkenecstasyanddrinkinit。
　　PresentlyHarrisexclaimed:
　　"Why——nation，it'sgoingDOWN!"
　　Perfectlytrue。WehadmissedtheMORNINGhornblow，andsleptallday。Thiswasstupefying。
　　Harrissaid:
　　"Lookhere，thesunisn'tthespectacle——it'sUS——stackeduphereontopofthisgallows，intheseidioticblankets，andtwohundredandfiftywell-dressedmenandwomendownheregawkingupatusandnotcaringastrawwhetherthesunrisesorsets，aslongasthey'vegotsucharidiculousspectacleasthistosetdownintheirmemorandum-books。
　　Theyseemtobelaughingtheirribsloose，andthere'sonegirlthereatappearstobegoingalltopieces。
　　Ineversawsuchamanasyoubefore。Ithinkyouaretheverylastpossibilityinthewayofanass。"
　　"Whathave_I_done?"Ianswered，withheat。
　　"Whathaveyoudone?"You'vegotupathalfpastseveno'clockintheeveningtoseethesunrise，that'swhatyou'vedone。"
　　"Andhaveyoudoneanybetter，I'dliketoknow?I'vealwaysusedtogetupwiththelark，tillIcameunderthepetrifyinginfluenceofyourturgidintellect。"
　　"YOUusedtogetupwiththelark——Oh，nodoubt——
　　you'llgetupwiththehangmanoneofthesedays。
　　Butyououghttobeashamedtobejawingherelikethis，inaredblanket，onaforty-footscaffoldontopoftheAlps。Andnoendofpeopledownheretoboot；
　　thisisn'tanyplaceforanexhibitionoftemper。"
　　Andsothecustomaryquarrelwenton。Whenthesunwasfairlydown，weslippedbacktothehotelinthecharitablegloaming，andwenttobedagain。Wehadencounteredthehorn-blowerontheway，andhehadtriedtocollectcompensation，notonlyforannouncingthesunset，whichwedidsee，butforthesunrise，whichwehadtotallymissed；butwesaidno，weonlytookoursolarrationsonthe"Europeanplan"——payforwhatyouget。
　　Hepromisedtomakeushearhishorninthemorning，ifwewerealive。
　　CHAPTERXXIX
　　[LookingWestforSunrise]
　　Hekepthisword。Weheardhishornandinstantlygotup。
　　Itwasdarkandcoldandwretched。AsIfumbledaroundforthematches，knockingthingsdownwithmyquakinghands，Iwishedthesunwouldriseinthemiddleoftheday，whenitwaswarmandbrightandcheerful，andonewasn'tsleepy。Weproceededtodressbythegloomofacouplesicklycandles，butwecouldhardlybuttonanything，ourhandsshookso。IthoughtofhowmanyhappypeopletherewereinEurope，Asia，andAmerica，andeverywhere，whoweresleepingpeacefullyintheirbeds，anddidnothavetogetupandseetheRigisunrise——peoplewhodidnotappreciatetheiradvantage，aslikeasnot，butwouldgetupinthemorningwantingmoreboonsofProvidence。
　　WhilethinkingthesethoughtsIyawned，inaratherampleway，andmyupperteethgothitchedonanailoverthedoor，andwhileIwasmountingachairtofreemyself，Harrisdrewthewindow-curtain，andsaid:
　　"Oh，thisisluck!Weshan'thavetogooutatall——
　　yonderarethemountains，infullview。"
　　Thatwasgladnews，indeed。Itmadeuscheerfulrightaway。
　　OnecouldseethegrandAlpinemassesdimlyoutlinedagainsttheblackfirmament，andoneortwofaintstarsblinkingthroughriftsinthenight。Fullyclothed，andwrappedinblankets，andhuddledourselvesup，bythewindow，withlightedpipes，andfellintochat，whilewewaitedinexceedingcomforttoseehowanAlpinesunrisewasgoingtolookbycandlelight。Byandbyadelicate，spiritualsortofeffulgencespreaditselfbyimperceptibledegreesovertheloftiestaltitudesofthesnowywastes——buttheretheeffortseemedtostop。
　　Isaid，presently:
　　"Thereisahitchaboutthissunrisesomewhere。
　　Itdoesn'tseemtogo。Whatdoyoureckonisthematterwithit?"
　　"Idon'tknow。Itappearstohangfiresomewhere。
　　Ineversawasunriseactlikethatbefore。Canitbethatthehotelisplayinganythingonus?"
　　"Ofcoursenot。Thehotelmerelyhasapropertyinterestinthesun，ithasnothingtodowiththemanagementofit。
　　Itisaprecariouskindofproperty，too；asuccessionoftotaleclipseswouldprobablyruinthistavern。
　　Nowwhatcanbethematterwiththissunrise?"
　　Harrisjumpedupandsaid:
　　"I'vegotit!Iknowwhat'sthematterwithit!We'vebeenlookingattheplacewherethesunSETlastnight!"
　　"Itisperfectlytrue!Whycouldn'tyouhavethoughtofthatsooner?Nowwe'velostanotherone!Andallthroughyourblundering。Itwasexactlylikeyoutolightapipeandsitdowntowaitforthesuntoriseinthewest。"
　　"Itwasexactlylikemetofindoutthemistake，too。
　　Youneverwouldhavefounditout。Ifindoutallthemistakes。"
　　"Youmakethemall，too，elseyourmostvaluablefacultywouldbewastedonyou。Butdon'tstoptoquarrel，now——maybewearenottoolateyet。"
　　Butwewere。Thesunwaswellupwhenwegottotheexhibition-ground。
　　Onourwayupwemetthecrowdreturning——menandwomendressedinallsortsofqueercostumes，andexhibitingalldegreesofcoldandwretchednessintheirgaitsandcountenances。Adozenstillremainedonthegroundwhenwereachedthere，huddledtogetheraboutthescaffoldwiththeirbackstothebitterwind。Theyhadtheirredguide-booksopenatthediagramoftheview，andwerepainfullypickingouttheseveralmountainsandtryingtoimpresstheirnamesandpositionsontheirmemories。
　　ItwasoneofthesaddestsightsIeversaw。
　　Twosidesofthisplacewereguardedbyrailings，tokeeppeoplefrombeingblownovertheprecipices。
　　Theview，lookingsheerdownintothebroadvalley，eastward，fromthisgreatelevation——almostaperpendicularmile——wasveryquaintandcurious。Counties，towns，hillyribsandridges，widestretchesofgreenmeadow，greatforesttracts，windingstreams，adozenbluelakes，ablockofbusysteamboats——wesawallthislittleworldinuniquecircumstantialityofdetail——sawitjustasthebirdsseeit——andallreducedtothesmallestofscalesandassharplyworkedoutandfinishedasasteelengraving。Thenumeroustoyvillages，withtinyspiresprojectingoutofthem，werejustasthechildrenmighthaveleftthemwhendonewithplaythedaybefore；
　　theforesttractswerediminishedtocushionsofmoss；
　　oneortwobiglakesweredwarfedtoponds，thesmalleronestopuddles——thoughtheydidnotlooklikepuddles，butlikeblueeardropswhichhadfallenandlodgedinslightdepressions，conformabletotheirshapes，amongthemoss-bedsandthesmoothlevelsofdaintygreenfarm-land；themicroscopicsteamboatsglidedalong，asinacityreservoir，takingamightytimetocoverthedistancebetweenportswhichseemedonlyayardapart；
　　andtheisthmuswhichseparatedtwolakeslookedasifonemightstretchoutonitandliewithbothelbowsinthewater，yetweknewinvisiblewagonsweretoilingacrossitandfindingthedistanceatediousone。
　　Thisbeautifulminiatureworldhadexactlytheappearanceofthose"reliefmaps"whichreproducenatureprecisely，withtheheightsanddepressionsandotherdetailsgraduatedtoareducedscale，andwiththerocks，trees，lakes，etc。，coloredafternature。
　　IbelievedwecouldwalkdowntoWa"ggisorVitznauinaday，butIknewwecouldgodownbyrailinaboutanhour，soIchosethelattermethod。Iwantedtoseewhatitwaslike，anyway。Thetraincamealongaboutthemiddleoftheafternoon，andanoddthingitwas。
　　Thelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotiveweretiledsharplybackward。Thereweretwopassenger-cars，roofed，butwideopenallaround。
　　Thesecarswerenottiltedback，buttheseatswere；
　　thisenablesthepassengertositlevelwhilegoingdownasteepincline。
　　Therearethreerailway-tracks；thecentraloneiscogged；
　　the"lanternwheel"oftheenginegripsitswayalongthesecogs，andpullsthetrainupthehillorretardsitsmotiononthedowntrip。Aboutthesamespeed——threemilesanhour——ismaintainedbothways。Whethergoingupordown，thelocomotiveisalwaysatthelowerendofthetrain。
　　Itpushesintheonecase，bracesbackintheother。
　　Thepassengerridesbackwardgoingup，andfacesforwardgoingdown。
　　Wegotfrontseats，andwhilethetrainmovedalongaboutfiftyyardsonlevelground，Iwasnottheleastfrightened；butnowitstartedabruptlydownstairs，andIcaughtmybreath。AndI，likemyneighbors，unconsciouslyheldbackallIcould，andthrewmyweighttotherear，but，ofcourse，thatdidnoparticulargood。
　　IhadsliddendownthebalusterswhenIwasaboy，andthoughtnothingofit，buttoslidedownthebalustersinarailway-trainisathingtomakeone'sfleshcreep。
　　Sometimeswehadasmuchastenyardsofalmostlevelground，andthisgaveusafewfullbreathsincomfort；
　　butstraightwaywewouldturnacornerandseealongsteeplineofrailsstretchingdownbelowus，andthecomfortwasatanend。Oneexpectedtoseethelocomotivepause，orslackupalittle，andapproachthisplungecautiously，butitdidnothingofthekind；itwentcalmlyon，andwentitreachedthejumping-offplaceitmadeasuddenbow，andwentglidingsmoothlydownstairs，untroubledbythecircumstances。
　　Itwaswildlyexhilaratingtoslidealongtheedgeoftheprecipices，afterthisgrislyfashion，andlookstraightdownuponthatfar-offvalleywhichIwasdescribingawhileago。
　　TherewasnolevelgroundattheKaltbadstation；
　　therailbedwasassteepasaroof；Iwascurioustoseehowthestopwasgoingtobemanaged。
　　Butitwasverysimple；thetraincameslidingdown，andwhenitreachedtherightspotitjuststopped——thatwasalltherewas"toit"——stoppedonthesteepincline，andwhentheexchangeofpassengersandbaggagehadbeenmade，itmovedoffandwentslidingdownagain。
　　Thetraincanbestoppedanywhere，atamoment'snotice。
　　Therewasonecuriouseffect，whichIneednottakethetroubletodescribe——becauseIcanscissoradescriptionofitoutoftherailwaycompany'sadvertisingpamphlet，andsaymyink:
　　"Onthewholetour，particularlyattheDescent，weundergoanopticalillusionwhichoftenseemstobeincredible。
　　Alltheshrubs，firtrees，stables，houses，etc。，seemtobebentinaslantingdirection，asbyanimmensepressureofair。
　　Theyareallstandingawry，somuchawrythatthechaletsandcottagesofthepeasantsseemtobetumblingdown。
　　Itistheconsequenceofthesteepinclinationoftheline。
　　Thosewhoareseatedinthecarriagedonotobservethattheyaredoingdownadeclivityoftwentytotwenty-fivedegreestheirseatsbeingadaptedtothiscourseofproceedingandbeingbentdownattheirbacks。Theymistaketheircarriageanditshorizontallinesforapropermeasureofthenormalplain，andthereforealltheobjectsoutsidewhichreallyareinahorizontalpositionmustshowadisproportionoftwentytotwenty-fivedegreesdeclivity，inregardtothemountain。"
　　BythetimeonereachesKaltbad，hehasacquiredconfidenceintherailway，andhenowceasestotrytoeasethelocomotivebyholdingback。Thenceforthhesmokeshispipeinserenity，andgazesoutuponthemagnificentpicturebelowandabouthimwithunfetteredenjoyment。
　　Thereisnothingtointerruptthevieworthebreeze；
　　itislikeinspectingtheworldonthewing。However——tobeexact——thereisoneplacewheretheserenitylapsesforawhile；
　　thisiswhileoneiscrossingtheSchnurrtobelBridge，afrailstructurewhichswingsitsgossamerframedownthroughthedizzyair，overagorge，likeavagrantspider-strand。
　　Onehasnodifficultyinrememberinghissinswhilethetrainiscreepingdownthisbridge；andherepentsofthem，too；thoughhesees，whenhegetstoVitznau，thatheneednothavedoneit，thebridgewasperfectlysafe。
　　SoendstheeventualtripwhichwemadetotheRigi-KulmtoseeanAlpinesunrise。
　　CHAPTERXXX
　　[HarrisClimbsMountainsforMe]
　　Anhour'ssailbroughtustoLucerneagain。Ijudgeditbesttogotobedandrestseveraldays，forIknewthatthemanwhoundertakestomakethetourofEuropeonfootmusttakecareofhimself。
　　Thinkingovermyplans，asmappedout，IperceivedthattheydidnottakeintheFurkaPass，theRhoneGlacier，theFinsteraarhorn，theWetterhorn，etc。Iimmediatelyexaminedtheguide-booktoseeifthesewereimportant，andfoundtheywere；infact，apedestriantourofEuropecouldnotbecompletewithoutthem。Ofcoursethatdecidedmeatoncetoseethem，forIneverallowmyselftodothingsbyhalves，orinaslurring，slipshodway。
　　Icalledinmyagentandinstructedhimtogowithoutdelayandmakeacarefulexaminationofthesenotedplaces，onfoot，andbringmebackawrittenreportoftheresult，forinsertioninmybook。IinstructedhimtogotoHospenthalasquicklyaspossible，andmakehisgrandstartfromthere；
　　toextendhisfootexpeditionasfarastheGiesbachfall，andreturntomefromthencebydiligenceormule。
　　Itoldhimtotakethecourierwithhim。
　　Heobjectedtothecourier，andwithsomeshowofreason，sincehewasabouttoventureuponnewanduntriedground；
　　butIthoughthemightaswelllearnhowtotakecareofthecouriernowaslater，thereforeIenforcedmypoint。
　　Isaidthatthetrouble，delay，andinconvenienceoftravelingwithacourierwerebalancedbythedeeprespectwhichacourier'spresencecommands，andImustinsistthatasmuchstylebethrownintomyjourneysaspossible。
　　Sothetwoassumedcompletemountaineeringcostumesanddeparted。Aweeklatertheyreturned，prettywellusedup，andmyagenthandedmethefollowingOfficialReportOFAVISITTOTHEFURKAREGION。BYH。HARRIS，AGENT
　　Aboutseveno'clockinthemorning，withperfectlyfineweather，westartedfromHospenthal，andarrivedattheMAISONontheFurkainalittleunderQUATREhours。
　　ThewantofvarietyinthesceneryfromHospenthalmadetheKAHKAHPONEEKAwearisome；butletnonebediscouraged；
　　noonecanfailtobecompletelyR'ECOMPENS'EEforhisfatigue，whenhesees，forthefirsttime，themonarchoftheOberland，thetremendousFinsteraarhorn。Amomentbeforeallwasdullness，butaPASfurtherhasplacedusonthesummitoftheFurka；andexactlyinfrontofus，ataHOPOWofonlyfifteenmiles，thismagnificentmountainliftsitssnow-wreathedprecipicesintothedeepbluesky。
　　Theinferiormountainsoneachsideofthepassformasortofframeforthepictureoftheirdreadlord，andcloseintheviewsocompletelythatnootherprominentfeatureintheOberlandisvisiblefromthisBONG-A-BONG；
　　nothingwithdrawstheattentionfromthesolitarygrandeuroftheFinsteraarhornandthedependentspurswhichformtheabutmentsofthecentralpeak。
　　Withtheadditionofsomeothers，whowerealsoboundfortheGrimsel，weformedalargeXHVLOJaswedescendedtheSTEGwhichwindsroundtheshoulderofamountaintowardtheRhoneGlacier。Wesoonleftthepathandtooktotheice；andafterwanderingamongstthecrevicesUNPEU，toadmirethewondersofthesedeepbluecaverns，andheartherushingofwatersthroughtheirsubglacialchannels，westruckoutacoursetowardL'AUTRECO^T'Eandcrossedtheglaciersuccessfully，alittleabovethecavefromwhichtheinfantRhonetakesitsfirstboundfromunderthegrandprecipiceofice。HalfamilebelowthiswebegantoclimbtheflowerysideoftheMeienwand。
　　Oneofourpartystartedbeforetherest，buttheHITZE
　　wassogreat，thatwefoundIHMquiteexhausted，andlyingatfulllengthintheshadeofalargeGESTEIN。
　　Wesatdownwithhimforatime，forallfelttheheatexceedinglyintheclimbupthisverysteepBOLWOGGOLY，andthenwesetoutagaintogether，andarrivedatlastneartheDeadMan'sLake，atthefootoftheSidelhorn。
　　Thislonelyspot，onceusedforanextemporeburying-place，afterasanguinaryBATTUEbetweentheFrenchandAustrians，istheperfectionofdesolation；thereisnothinginsighttomarkthehandofman，exceptthelineofweather-beatenwhitenedposts，setuptoindicatethedirectionofthepassintheOWDAWAKKofwinter。Nearthispointthefootpathjoinsthewidertrack，whichconnectstheGrimselwiththeheadoftheRhoneSCHNAWP；thishasbeencarefullyconstructed，andleadswithatortuouscourseamongandoverLESPIERRES，downtothebankofthegloomylittleSWOSH-SWOSH，whichalmostwashesagainstthewallsoftheGrimselHospice。
　　Wearrivedalittlebeforefouro'clockattheendofourday'sjourney，hotenoughtojustifythestep，takingbymostofthePARTIE，ofplungingintothecrystalwaterofthesnow-fedlake。
　　ThenextafternoonwestartedforawalkuptheUnteraarglacier，withtheintentionof，atallevents，gettingasfarastheHU"TTEwhichisusedasasleeping-placebymostofthosewhocrosstheStrahleckPasstoGrindelwald。
　　WegotoverthetediouscollectionofstonesandDE'BRIS
　　whichcoversthePIEDoftheGLETCHER，andhadwalkednearlythreehoursfromtheGrimsel，when，justaswewerethinkingofcrossingovertotheright，toclimbthecliffsatthefootofthehut，theclouds，whichhadforsometimeassumedathreateningappearance，suddenlydropped，andahugemassofthem，drivingtowardusfromtheFinsteraarhorn，poureddownadelugeofHABOOLONGandhail。Fortunately，wewerenotfarfromaverylargeglacier-table；itwasahugerockbalancedonapedestaloficehighenoughtoadmitofourallcreepingunderitforGOWKARAK。AstreamofPUCKITTYPUKK
　　hadfurrowedacourseforitselfintheiceatitsbase，andwewereobligedtostandwithoneFUSSoneachsideofthis，andendeavortokeepourselvesCHAUDbycuttingstepsinthesteepbankofthepedestal，soastogetahigherplaceforstandingon，astheWASSERroserapidlyinitstrench。AverycoldBZZZZZZZZEEEaccompaniedthestorm，andmadeourpositionfarfrompleasant；
　　andpresentlycameaflashofBLITZEN，apparentlyinthemiddleofourlittleparty，withaninstantaneousclapofYOKKY，soundinglikealargegunfiredclosetoourears；
　　theeffectwasstartling；butinafewsecondsourattentionwasfixedbytheroaringechoesofthethunderagainstthetremendousmountainswhichcompletelysurroundedus。
　　Thiswasfollowedbymanymorebursts，noneofWELCHE，however，wassodangerouslynear；andafterwaitingalongDEMI-hourinouricyprison，wesalliedouttotalkthroughaHABOOLONGwhich，thoughnotsoheavyasbefore，wasquiteenoughtogiveusathoroughsoakingbeforeourarrivalattheHospice。
　　TheGrimselisCERTAINEMENTawonderfulplace；situatedatthebottomofasortofhugecrater，thesidesofwhichareutterlysavageGEBIRGE，composedofbarrenrockswhichcannotevensupportasinglepineARBRE，andaffordonlyscantyfoodforaherdofGMWKWLLOLP，itlooksasifitmustbecompletelyBEGRABENinthewintersnows。
　　Enormousavalanchesfallagainstiteveryspring，sometimescoveringeverythingtothedepthofthirtyorfortyfeet；and，inspiteofwallsfourfeetthick，andfurnishedwithoutsideshutters，thetwomenwhostayherewhentheVOYAGEURSaresnuglyquarteredintheirdistanthomescantellyouthatthesnowsometimesshakesthehousetoitsfoundations。
　　NextmorningtheHOGGLEBUMGULLUPstillcontinuedbad，butwemadeupourmindstogoon，andmakethebestofit。
　　Halfanhourafterwestarted，theREGENthickenedunpleasantly，andweattemptedtogetshelterunderaprojectingrock，butbeingfartoNASSalreadytomakestandingatallAGRE'ABLE，wepushedonfortheHandeck，consolingourselveswiththereflectionthatfromthefuriousrushingoftheriverAaratourside，weshouldatalleventsseethecelebratedWASSERFALLinGRANDEPERFECTION。
　　NorwereweNAPPERSOCKETinourexpectation；thewaterwasroaringdownitsleapoftwohundredandfiftyfeetinamostmagnificentfrenzy，whilethetreeswhichclingtoitsrockysidesswayedtoandfrointheviolenceofthehurricanewhichitbroughtdownwithit；eventhestream，whichfallsintothemaincascadeatrightangles，andTOUTEFOISformsabeautifulfeatureinthescene，wasnowswollenintoaragingtorrent；andtheviolenceofthis"meetingofthewaters，"aboutfiftyfeetbelowthefrailbridgewherewestood，wasfearfullygrand。
　　Whilewewerelookingatit，GLU"CKLICHEWEISEagleamofsunshinecameout，andinstantlyabeautifulrainbowwasformedbythespray，andhunginmid-airsuspendedovertheawfulgorge。
　　OngoingintotheCHALETabovethefall，wewereinformedthataBRU"CKEhadbrokendownnearGuttanen，andthatitwouldbeimpossibletoproceedforsometime；
　　accordinglywewerekeptinourdrenchedconditionforEINSTUNDE，whensomeVOYAGEURSarrivedfromMeiringen，andtoldusthattherehadbeenatriflingaccident，ABERthatwecouldnowcross。Onarrivingatthespot，IwasmuchinclinedtosuspectthatthewholestorywasarusetomakeusSLOWWKanddrinkthemoreattheHandeckInn，foronlyafewplankshadbeencarriedaway，andthoughtheremightperhapshavebeensomedifficultywithmules，thegapwascertainlynotlargerthanaMMBGLXmightcrosswithaveryslightleap。NearGuttanentheHABOOLONG
　　happilyceased，andwehadtimetowalkourselvestolerablydrybeforearrivingatReichenback，WOweenjoyedagoodDINE'
　　attheHoteldesAlps。
　　NextmorningwewalkedtoRosenlaui，theBEAUID'EAL
　　ofSwissscenery，wherewespentthemiddleofthedayinanexcursiontotheglacier。Thiswasmorebeautifulthanwordscandescribe，forintheconstantprogressoftheiceithaschangedtheformofitsextremityandformedavastcavern，asblueastheskyabove，andrippledlikeafrozenocean。AfewstepscutintheWHOOPJAMBOREEHOOenabledustowalkcompletelyunderthis，andfeastoureyesupononeoftheloveliestobjectsincreation。Theglacierwasallarounddividedbynumberlessfissuresofthesameexquisitecolor，andthefinestwood-ERDBEERENweregrowinginabundancebutafewyardsfromtheice。TheinnstandsinaCHARMANT
　　spotclosetotheC^OTEDELARIVIE`RE，which，lowerdown，formstheReichenbachfall，andembosomedintherichestofpinewoods，whilethefineformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。
　　IntheafternoonwewalkedovertheGreatScheidecktoGrindelwald，stoppingtopayavisittotheUpperglacierbytheway；butwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUPandarrivedatthehotelinaSOLCHE
　　astatethatthelandlord'swardrobewasingreatrequest。
　　Thecloudsbythistimeseemedtohavedonetheirworst，foralovelydaysucceeded，whichwedeterminedtodevotetoanascentoftheFaulhorn。WeleftGrindelwaldjustasathunder-stormwasdyingaway，andwehopedtofindGUTEN
　　WETTERupabove；buttherain，whichhadnearlyceased，beganagain，andwewerestruckbytherapidlyincreasingFROIDasweascended。Two-thirdsofthewayupwerecompletedwhentherainwasexchangedforGNILLIC，withwhichtheBODENwasthicklycovered，andbeforewearrivedatthetoptheGNILLICandmistbecamesothickthatwecouldnotseeoneanotheratmorethantwentyPOOPOOdistance，anditbecamedifficulttopickourwayovertheroughandthicklycoveredground。Shiveringwithcold，weturnedintobedwithadoubleallowanceofclothes，andsleptcomfortablywhilethewindhowledAUTOURDE
　　LAMAISON；whenIawoke，thewallandthewindowlookedequallydark，butinanotherhourIfoundIcouldjustseetheformofthelatter；soIjumpedoutofbed，andforceditopen，thoughwithgreatdifficultyfromthefrostandthequantitiesofGNILLICheapedupagainstit。
　　Arowofhugeicicleshungdownfromtheedgeoftheroof，andanythingmorewintrythanthewholeANBLICKcouldnotwellbeimagined；butthesuddenappearanceofthegreatmountainsinfrontwassostartlingthatIfeltnoinclinationtomovetowardbedagain。ThesnowwhichhadcollecteduponLAFENE^TREhadincreasedtheFINSTERNISS
　　ODERDERDUNKELHEIT，sothatwhenIlookedoutIwassurprisedtofindthatthedaylightwasconsiderable，andthattheBALRAGOOMAHwouldevidentlyrisebeforelong。
　　OnlythebrightestofLESE'TOILESwerestillshining；
　　theskywascloudlessoverhead，thoughsmallcurlingmistslaythousandsoffeetbelowusinthevalleys，wreathedaroundthefeetofthemountains，andaddingtothesplendoroftheirloftysummits。Weweresoondressedandoutofthehouse，watchingthegradualapproachofdawn，thoroughlyabsorbedinthefirstnearviewoftheOberlandgiants，whichbrokeuponusunexpectedlyaftertheintenseobscurityoftheeveningbefore。
　　"KABAUGWAKKOSONGWASHEEKUMWETTERHORNSNAWPO!"criedsomeone，asthatgrandsummitgleamedwiththefirstroseofdawn；
　　andinafewmomentsthedoublecrestoftheSchreckhornfolloweditsexample；peakafterpeakseemedwarmedwithlife，theJungfraublushedevenmorebeautifullythanherneighbors，andsoon，fromtheWetterhornintheeasttotheWildstrubelinthewest，alongrowoffiresgloweduponmightyaltars，trulyworthyofthegods。
　　TheWLGWwasverysevere；oursleeping-placecouldhardlybeDISTINGUEE'fromthesnowaroundit，whichhadfallentoadepthofaFLIRKduringthepastevening，andweheartilyenjoyedaroughscrambleENBAStotheGiesbachfalls，wherewesoonfoundawarmclimate。
　　AtnoonthedaybeforeGrindelwaldthethermometercouldnothavestoodatlessthan100degreesFahr。inthesun；
　　andintheevening，judgingfromtheiciclesformed，andthestateofthewindows，theremusthavebeenatleasttwelveDINGBLATTERoffrost，thusgivingachangeof80
　　degreesduringafewhours。
　　Isaid:
　　"Youhavedonewell，Harris；thisreportisconcise，compact，wellexpressed；thelanguageiscrisp，thedescriptionsarevividandnotneedlesslyelaborated；
　　yourreportgoesstraighttothepoint，attendsstrictlytobusiness，anddoesn'tfoolaround。Itisinmanywaysanexcellentdocument。Butithasafault——itistoolearned，itismuchtoolearned。Whatis'DINGBLATTER'?
　　"'DINGBLATTER'isaFijiwordmeaning'degrees。'"
　　"YouknewtheEnglishofit，then?"
　　"Oh，yes。"
　　"Whatis'GNILLIC'?
　　"ThatistheEskimotermfor'snow。'"
　　"SoyouknewtheEnglishforthat，too?"
　　"Why，certainly。"
　　"Whatdoes'MMBGLX'standfor?"
　　"ThatisZulufor'pedestrian。'"
　　"'WhiletheformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。'Whatis'BOPPLE'?"
　　"'Picture。'It'sChoctaw。"
　　"Whatis'SCHNAWP'?"
　　"'Valley。'ThatisChoctaw，also。"
　　"Whatis'BOLWOGGOLY'?"
　　"ThatisChinesefor'hill。'"
　　"'KAHKAHPONEEKA'?"
　　"'Ascent。'Choctaw。"
　　"'ButwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUP。'
　　Whatdoes'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP'mean?"
　　"ThatisChinesefor'weather。'"
　　"Is'HOGGLEBUMGULLUP'betterthantheEnglishword?Isitanymoredescriptive?"
　　"No，itmeansjustthesame。"
　　"And'DINGBLATTER'and'GNILLIC，'and'BOPPLE，'
　　and'SCHNAWP'——aretheybetterthantheEnglishwords?"
　　"No，theymeanjustwhattheEnglishonesdo。"
　　"Thenwhydoyouusethem?WhyhaveyouusedallthisChineseandChoctawandZulurubbish?"
　　"BecauseIdidn'tknowanyFrenchbuttwoorthreewords，andIdidn'tknowanyLatinorGreekatall。"
　　"Thatisnothing。Whyshouldyouwanttouseforeignwords，anyhow?"
　　"Theyadornmypage。Theyalldoit。"
　　"Whois'all'?"
　　"Everybody。Everybodythatwriteselegantly。Anybodyhasarighttothatwantsto。"
　　"Ithinkyouaremistaken。"Ithenproceededinthefollowingscathingmanner。"Whenreallylearnedmenwritebooksforotherlearnedmentoread，theyarejustifiedinusingasmanylearnedwordsastheyplease——theiraudiencewillunderstandthem；butamanwhowritesabookforthegeneralpublictoreadisnotjustifiedindisfiguringhispageswithuntranslatedforeignexpressions。