PassedthroughPennoworPenhow，asmallvillage。Thesceneryintheneighbourhoodofthisplaceishighlyinteresting。Tothenorth—westatsomedistanceisMynyddTurvey，asharppointedbluemountain。Tothesouth—east，ontheright，muchnearer，aretwobeautifulgreenhills，thelowestprettilywooded，andhavingitstopafairwhitemansioncalledPenhowCastle，whichbelongstoafamilyofthenameofCave。ThencetoLlanvaches，aprettylittlevillage。WhenIwasaboutthemiddleofthisplaceIheardanoddsound，somethinglikeanoteofrecognition，whichattractedmyattentiontoanobjectveryneartome，fromwhichitseemedtoproceed，andwhichwascomingfromthedirectioninwhichIwasgoing。Itwasthefigureseeminglyofafemale，wrappedinacoarsebluecloak，thefeetbareandthelegsbarealsonearlyuptotheknee，bothterriblysplashedwiththeslushoftheroad。
　　Theheadwassurmountedbyakindofhood，whichjustpermittedmetoseecoarseredhair，abroadface，greyeyes，asnubbednose，blubberlipsandgreatwhiteteeth—theeyeswerestaringintentlyatme。Istoppedandstaredtoo，andatlastthoughtIrecognisedthefeaturesoftheuncouthgirlIhadseenonthegreennearChesterwiththeIrishtinkerTourloughandhiswife。
　　"Dearme！"saidI，"didInotseeyounearChesterlastsummer？"
　　"Tobesureyedid；andyeweregoingtopassmewithoutawordofnoticeorkindnesshadInotgivenyeabitofahail。"
　　"Well，"saidI，"Ibegyourpardon。Howisitallwidye？"
　　"Quitewell。Howisitwidyerehanner？’
　　"Tolerably。Wheredoyoucomefrom？"
　　"FromChepstow，yerehanner。"
　　"Andwhereareyougoingto？"
　　"ToNewport，yerehanner。"
　　"AndIcomefromNewport，andamgoingtoChepstow。Where’sTourloughandhiswife？"
　　"AtCardiff，yerehanner；Ishalljointhemagainto—morrow。"
　　"Haveyoubeenlongawayfromthem？"
　　"Aboutaweek，yerehanner。"
　　"Andwhathaveyoubeendoing？"
　　"Sellingmyneedles，yerehanner。"
　　"Oh！yousellneedles。Well，Iamgladtohavemetyou。Letmesee。There’sanicelittleinnontheright：won’tyoucomeinandhavesomerefreshment？"
　　"Thankyerehanner；Ihavenoobjectiontotakeaglasswidanoldfriend。"
　　"Well，then，comein；youmustbetired，andIshallbegladtohavesomeconversationwithyou。"
　　Wewentintotheinn—alittletidyplace。Onmycalling，arespectable—lookingoldmanmadehisappearancebehindabar。
　　Afterservingmycompanionwithaglassofpeppermint，whichshesaidshepreferredtoanythingelse，andmewithaglassofale，bothofwhichIpaidfor，heretired，andwesatdownontwooldchairsbeneathawindowinfrontofthebar。
　　"Well，"saidI，"IsupposeyouhaveIrish：here’sslainte—"
　　"Slainteyuitashaoi，"saidthegirl，tastingherpeppermint。
　　"Well：howdoyoulikeit？’
　　"It’sveryniceindeed。"
　　"That’smorethanIcansayoftheale，which，likeallthealeintheseparts，isbitter。Well，whatpartofIrelanddoyoucomefrom？"
　　"Fromnopartatall。IneverwasinIrelandinmylife。IamfromScotlandRoad，Manchester。"
　　"Why，IthoughtyouwereIrish？"
　　"AndsoIam；andallthemorefrombeingbornwhereIwas。
　　There’snotsuchaplaceforIrishinalltheworldasScotlandRoad。"
　　"WereyourfatherandmotherfromIreland？"
　　"MymotherwasfromIreland：myfatherwasIrishofScotlandRoad，wheretheymetandmarried。"
　　"Andwhatdidtheydoaftertheymarried？"
　　"Why，theyworkedhard，anddidtheirbesttogetalivelihoodforthemselvesandchildren，ofwhichtheyhadseveralbesidesmyself，whowastheeldest。Myfatherwasabricklayer，andmymothersoldapplesandorangesandotherfruits，accordingtotheseason，andalsowhiskey，whichshemadeherself，asshewellknewhow；formymotherwasnotonlyaConnachtwoman，butanout—and—outConnamaraquean，andwhenonlythirteenhadwroughtwiththeladswhousedtomaketheraalcraturontheislandsbetweenOchterardandBallynahinch。AssoonasIwasable，Ihelpedmymotherinmakinganddisposingofthewhiskeyandinsellingthefruit。Asfortheotherchildren，theyalldiedwhenyoung，offavers，ofwhichthereisalwaysplentyinScotlandRoad。Aboutfouryearsago—thatis，whenIwasjustfifteen—therewasagreatquarrelamongtheworkmenaboutwages。Somewantedmorethantheirmasterswerewillingtogive；otherswerewillingtotakewhatwasofferedthem。
　　Thosewhoweredissatisfiedwerecalledbricks；thosewhowerenotwerecalleddungs。Myfatherwasabrick；and，beingagoodmanwithhisfists，waslookeduponasaveryproperpersontofightaprincipalmanamongstthedungs。TheyfoughtinthefieldsnearSalfordforapoundaside。Myfatherhaditallhisownwayforthefirstthreerounds，butinthefourth，receivingablowundertheearfromthedung，hedropped，andnevergotupagain，dyingsuddenly。Agrandwakemyfatherhad，forwhichmymotherfurnishedusquebaughgalore；andcomfortablyanddacentlyitpassedovertillaboutthreeo’clockinthemorning，when，adisputehappeningtoarise—notonthematterofwages，fortherewasnotadungamongsttheIrishofScotlandRoad—butastowhethertheO’KeefsorO’KellyswerekingsofIrelandathousandyearsago，ageneralfighttookplace，whichbroughtinthepolice，who，beingsoondreadfullybaten，asweallturneduponthem，wentandfetchedthemilitary，withwhosehelptheytookandlockedupseveraloftheparty，amongstwhomweremymotherandmyself，tillthenextmorning，whenweweretakenbeforethemagistrates，who，afteraslightscolding，setusatliberty，oneofthemsayingthatsuchdisturbancesformedpartoftheIrishfuneralservice；whereuponwereturnedtothehouse，andtherestofthepartyjoiningus，wecarriedmyfather’sbodytothechurchyard，whereweburieditverydacently，withmanytearsandgroanings。"
　　"Andhowdidyourmotherandyougetonafteryourfatherwasburied？"
　　"Aswellaswecould，yerehanner；wesoldfruit，andnowandthenadropofwhiskey，whichwemade；butthisstateofthingsdidnotlastlong，foronedaymymotherseeingthedungwhohadkilledmyfather，sheflungalargeflintstoneandknockedouthisrighteye，fordoingwhichshewastakenupandtried，andsentencedtoayear’simprisonment，chieflyitwasthoughtbecauseshehadbeenheardtosaythatshewoulddothedungamischiefthefirsttimeshemethim。She，however，didnotsufferallhersentence，forbeforeshehadbeeninprisonthreemonthsshecaughtadisorderwhichcarriedheroff。Iwentonsellingfruitbymyselfwhilstshewasintrouble，andforsometimeafterherdeath，butverylonelyandmelancholy。AtlastmyuncleTourlough，or，astheEnglishwouldcallhim，Charles，chancingtocometoScotlandRoadalongwithhisfamily，Iwasgladtoacceptaninvitationtojointhemwhichhegaveme，andwiththemIhavebeeneversince，travellingaboutEnglandandWalesandScotland，helpingmyauntwiththechildren，anddrivingmuchthesametradewhichshehasdrivenfortwentyyearspast，whichisnotanunprofitableone。"
　　"Wouldyouhaveanyobjectiontotellmeallyoudo？"
　　"WhyIsellsneedles，asIsaidbefore，andsometimesIbuysthingsofservants，andsometimesItellsfortunes。"
　　"Doyoueverdoanythinginthewayofstriopachas？"
　　"Ohno！Ineverdoanythinginthatline；Iwouldbeburntfirst。
　　Iwonderyoushoulddreamofsuchathing。"
　　"Whysurelyitisnotworsethanbuyingthingsofservants，whonodoubtstealthemfromtheiremployers，ortellingfortunes，whichisdealingwiththedevil。"
　　"Notworse？Yes，athousandtimesworse；thereisnothingsoveryparticularindoingthemthings，butstriopachas—Ohdear！"
　　"It’sadreadfulthingIadmit，buttheotherthingsarequiteasbad；youshoulddononeofthem。"
　　"I’lltakegoodcarethatIneverdoone，andthatisstriopachas；
　　themotherthingsIknowarenotquiteright，andIhopesoontohavedonewidthem；anydayIcanshakethemoffandlookpeopleintheface，butwereIoncetodostriopachasIcouldneverholdupmyhead"
　　"Howcomesitthatyouhavesuchahorrorofstriopachas？"
　　"Igotitfrommymother，andshegotitfromhers。AllIrishwomenhaveadreadofstriopachas。It’stheonlythingthatfrightsthem；ImanesthewildIrish，forasforthequalitywomenIhaveheardtheyarenobitbetterthantheEnglish。Come，yerehanner，let’stalkofsomethingelse。"
　　"Youweresayingnowthatyouwerethinkingofleavingofffortune—
　　tellingandbuyingthingsofservants。Doyoumeantodependuponyourneedlesalone？"
　　"No；IamthinkingofleavingofftrampingaltogetherandgoingtotheTirnaSiar。"
　　"Isn’tthatAmerica？"
　　"Itis，yerehanner；thelandofthewestisAmerica。"
　　"Alongwayforalonegirl。"
　　"Ishouldnotbealone，yerehanner；IshouldbewidmyuncleTourloughandhiswife。"
　　"AretheygoingtoAmerica？"
　　"Theyare，yerehanner；theyintendsleavingoffbusinessandgoingtoAmericanextspring。"
　　"Itwillcostmoney。"
　　"Itwill，yerehanner；buttheyhavegotmoney，andsohaveI。"
　　"IsitbecausebusinessisslackthatyouarethinkingofgoingtoAmerica？"
　　"Ohno，yerehanner；wewishtogothereinordertogetridofoldwaysandhabits，amongstwhicharefortune—tellingandbuyingthingsofsarvants，whichyerehannerwasjistnowcheckingmewid。"
　　"Andcan’tyougetridofthemhere？"
　　"Wecannot，yerehanner。Ifwestayherewemustgoontramping，anditiswellknownthatdoingthemthingsispartoftramping。"
　　"AndwhatwouldyoudoinAmerica？"
　　"Oh，wecoulddoplentyofthingsinAmerica—mostlikelyweshouldbuyapieceoflandandsettledown。"
　　"Howcameyoutoseethewickednessofthetrampinglife？"
　　"ByhearingagreatmanysarmonsandpreachingsandhavingoftenhadtheBiblereadtousbyholywomenwhocametoourtent。"
　　"Ofwhatreligiondoyoucallyourselvesnow？"
　　"Idon’tknow，yerehanner；weareclaneunsettledaboutreligion。
　　WewereonceCatholicsandcarriedSaintColmanofCloyneaboutwidusinabox；butafterhearingasermonatachurchaboutimages，wewenthome，tookthesaintoutofhisboxandcasthimintoariver。"
　　"OhitwillneverdotobelongtothePopishreligion，areligionwhichupholdsidol—worshipandpersecutestheBible—youshouldbelongtotheChurchofEngland。"
　　"Well，perhapsweshould，yerehanner，ifitsministerswerenotsuchproudviolentmen。Oh，youlittleknowhowtheylookdownuponallpoorpeople，especiallyonustramps。Oncemypooraunt，Tourlough’swife，whohasalwayshadstrongerconvictionthananyofus，followedoneofthemhomeafterhehadbeenpreaching，andbeggedhimtogiveherGod，andwastoldbyhimthatshewasathief，andifshedidn’ttakeherselfoutofthehousehewouldkickherout。"
　　"Perhaps，afterall，"saidI；"youhadbetterjointheMethodists—
　　IshouldsaythattheirwayswouldsuityoubetterthanthoseofanyotherdenominationofChristians。"
　　Yerehannerknowsnothingaboutthem，otherwiseyewouldn’ttalkinthatmanner。Theirwayswouldneverdoforpeoplewhowanttohavedonewithlyingandstaring，andhavealwayskeptthemselvesclanefromstriopachas。Theirwordisnotwortharottenstraw，yerehanner，andineverytransactionwhichtheyhavewithpeopletheytrytocheatandoverreach—askmyuncleTourlough，whohashadmanydealingswiththem。Butwhatisfarworse，theydothatwhichthewildestcalleent’othersideofOugteraardewouldbeburntratherthando。WhocantellyemoreonthatpointthanI，yerehanner？Ihavebeenattheirchapelsatnights，andhavelistenedtotheirscreamingprayers，andhaveseenwhat’sbeengoingonoutsidethechapelsaftertheirservices，astheycallthem，wereover—IneversawthelikegoingonoutsideFatherToban’schapel，yerehanner！Yerehanner’shanneraskedmeifIeverdidanythinginthewayofstriopachas—nowItellyethatIwasneveraskedtodoanythinginthatlinebutbyoneofthemfolks—agreatmanamongstthemhewas，bothinthewayofbusinessandprayer，forhewasacommercialtravellerduringsixdaysoftheweekandapreacherontheseventh—andsuchapreacher。Well，oneSundaynightafterhehadpreachedasermonanhour—and—a—halflong，whichhadputhalfadozenwomenintowhattheycallstaticfits，heovertookmeinadarkstreetandwantedmetodostriopachaswithhim—hedidn’tsaystriopachas，yerhanner，forhehadnoIrish—
　　buthesaidsomethinginEnglishwhichwasthesamething。"
　　"Andwhatdidyoudo？"
　　"Why，Iaskedhimwhathemeantbymakingfunofapooruglygirl—
　　fornooneknowsbetterthanmyself，yerehanner，thatIamveryugly—whereuponhetoldmethathewasnotmakingfunofme，forithadlongbeenthechiefwishofhishearttocommitstriopachaswithawildIrishPapist，andthathebelievedifhesearchedtheworldheshouldfindnonewilderthanmyself。"
　　"Andwhatdidyoureply？"
　　"Why，Isaidtohim，yerehanner，thatIwouldtellthecongregation，atwhichhelaughedandsaidthathewishedIwould，forthatthecongregationwouldsaytheydidn’tbelieveme，thoughathearttheywould，andwouldlikehimallthebetterforit。"
　　"Well，andwhatdidyousaythen？"
　　"Nothing，atall，yerehanner；butIspatinhisfaceandwenthomeandtoldmyuncleTourlough，whoforthwithtookoutaknifeandbegantosharpitonawhetstone，andImakenodoubtwouldhavegoneandstuckthefellowlikeapig，hadnotmypoorauntbeggedhimnotonherknees。AfterthatwehadnothingmoretodowiththeMethodistsasfarasreligionwent。"
　　"DidthisaffairoccurinEnglandorWales？"
　　"IntheheartofEngland，yerehanner；wehaveneverbeentotheWelshchapels，forweknowlittleofthelanguage。"
　　"Well，Iamgladitdidn’thappeninWales：IhaveratherahighopinionoftheWelshMethodist。TheworthiestcreatureIeverknewwasaWelshMethodist。AndnowImustleaveyouandmakethebestofmywaytoChepstow。"
　　"Can’tyerehannergivemeGodbeforeyego？"
　　"Icangiveyouhalf—a—crowntohelpyouonyourwaytoAmerica。"
　　"Iwantnohalf—crowns，yerehanner；butifyewouldgivemeGodI’dblessye。"
　　"WhatdoyoumeanbygivingyouGod？"
　　"PuttingHiminmyheartbysomegoodcounselwhichwillguidemethroughlife。"
　　"TheonlygoodcounselIcangiveyouistokeepthecommandments；
　　oneofthemitseemsyouhavealwayskept。Followtherestandyoucan’tgoverywrong。"
　　"IwishIknewthembetterthanIdo，yerehanner。"
　　"Can’tyouread？"
　　"Ohno，yerehanner，Ican’tread，neithercanTourloughnorhiswife。"
　　"Well，learntoreadassoonaspossible。WhenyouhavegottoAmericaandsettleddownyouwillhavetimeenoughtolearntoread。"
　　"Shallwebebetter，yerehanner，afterwehavelearnttoread？"
　　"Let’shopeyouwill。"
　　"Oneofthethings，yerehanner，thathavemadeusstumbleisthatsomeoftheholywomen，whohavecometoourtentandreadtheBibletous，haveafterwardsaskedmyauntandmetotellthemtheirfortunes。"
　　"Iftheyhave，themoreshameforthem，fortheycanhavenoexcuse。Well，whetheryoulearntoreadornot，stilleschewstriopachas，don’tsteal，don’tdeceive，andworshipGodinspirit，notinimage。That’sthebestcounselIcangiveyou。"
　　"Andverygoodcounselitis，yerehanner，andIwilltrytofollowit，andnow，yerehanner，letusgoourtwoways。"
　　Weplacedourglassesuponthebarandwentout。Inthemiddleoftheroadweshookhandsandparted，shegoingtowardsNewportandI
　　towardsChepstow。AfterwalkingafewyardsIturnedroundandlookedafterher。Thereshewasinthedamploweringafternoonwendingherwayslowlythroughmudandpuddle，herupperformhuddledintheroughfriezemantle，andhercoarselegsbaretothetopofthecalves。"Surely，"saidItomyself，"thereneverwasanobjectlesspromisinginappearance。Whowouldthinkthattherecouldbeallthegoodsenseandproperfeelinginthatuncouthgirlwhichtherereallyis？"
　　CHAPTERCIX
　　ArrivalatChepstow—StirringLyric—Conclusion。
　　IPASSEDthroughCaerWent，onceanimportantRomanstation，andforalongtimeafterthedepartureoftheRomansacelebratedBritishcity，nowapoordesolateplaceconsistingofafewold—
　　fashionedhousesandastrange—lookingdilapidatedchurch。NoWelshisspokenatCaerWent，nortotheeastofit，norindeedfortwoorthreemilesbeforeyoureachitfromthewest。
　　ThecountrybetweenitandChepstow，fromwhichitisdistantaboutfourmiles，isdelightfullygreen，butsomewhattame。
　　Chepstowstandsonthelowerpartofahill，neartowherethebeautifulWyejoinsthenobleSevern。TheBritishnameoftheplaceisAberWyeorthedisemboguementoftheWye。TheSaxonsgaveitthenameofChepstow，whichintheirlanguagesignifiesaplacewhereamarketisheld，becauseeveninthetimeoftheBritonsitwasthesiteofagreatcheapormarket。AftertheNormanConquestitbecamethepropertyofDeClare，oneofWilliam’sfollowers，whobuiltnearitanenormouscastle，whichenjoyedconsiderablecelebrityduringseveralcenturiesfromhavingbeenthebirthplaceofStrongbow，theconquerorofIreland，butwhichisatpresentchieflyillustriousfromthementionwhichismadeofitinoneofthemoststirringlyricsofmoderntimes，apiecebyWalterScott，calledthe"NormanHorseshoe，"commemorativeofanexpeditionmadebyaDeClare，ofChepstow，withtheviewofinsultingwiththeprintofhiscourser’sshoethegreenmeadsofGlamorgan，andwhichcommencesthus：—
　　"Redglowstheforge"—
　　Iwenttotheprincipalinn，whereIengagedaprivateroomandorderedthebestdinnerwhichthepeoplecouldprovide。ThenleavingmysatchelbehindmeIwenttothecastle，amongsttheruinsofwhichIgropedandwanderedfornearlyanhour，occasionallyrepeatingversesoftheNormanHorseshoe。IthenwenttotheWyeanddrankofthewatersatitsmouth，evenassometimebeforeIhaddrunkofthewatersatitssource。ThenreturningtomyinnIgotmydinner，afterwhichIcalledforabottleofport，andplacingmyfeetagainstthesidesofthegrateIpassedmytimedrinkingwineandsingingWelshsongstillteno’clockatnight，whenIpaidmyreckoning，amountingtosomethingconsiderable。
　　ThenshoulderingmysatchelIproceededtotherailroadstation，whereIpurchasedafirst—classticket，andensconcingmyselfinacomfortablecarriage，wassoononthewaytoLondon，whereI
　　arrivedataboutfouro’clockinthemorning，havinghadduringthewholeofmyjourneyamostuproarioussetofneighboursafewcarriagesbehindme，namely，somehundredandfiftyofNapier’starsreturningfromtheirexpeditiontotheBaltic。
　　CUMROANDCUMRAEG。
　　THEoriginalhomeoftheCumrowasSouthernHindustan，theextremepointofwhich，CapeComorin，derivedfromhimitsname。ItmaybehereaskedwhatistheexactmeaningofthewordCumro？Thetruemeaningofthewordisayouth。ItisconnectedwithaSanscritword，signifyingayouth，andlikewiseaprince。Itissurprisinghowsimilarinmeaningthenamesofseveralnationsare：Cumro，ayouth；Gael，ahero；（24）Roman，onewhoiscomely，ahusband；（25）
　　FrankorFrenchman，afree，bravefellow；Dane，anhonestman；
　　Turk，ahandsomelad；Arab，asprightlyfellow。Lastly，RomanyChal，thenamebywhichtheGypsystyleshimself，signifyingnotanEgyptian，butaladofRome。（26）
　　ThelanguageoftheCumroiscalledafterhimCumraeg。OfCumrictherearethreedialects，thespeechofCumruorWales；thatofArmoricaor，astheWelshcallit，Llydaw，andtheCornish，whichisnolongerspoken，andonlyexistsinbooksandinthenamesofplaces。TheCumricbearsconsiderableaffinitytotheGaelic，orthelanguageoftheGael，ofwhichtherearealsothreedialects，theIrish，thespeechoftheScottishHighlanders，andtheManx，whichlastisrapidlybecomingextinct。TheCumricandGaelichavenotonlyagreatmanythousandwordsincommon，butalsoaremarkablegrammaticalfeature，themutationanddroppingofcertaininitialconsonantsundercertaincircumstances，whichfeatureispeculiartotheCelticlanguages。ThenumberofSanscriticwordswhichtheCumricandGaelicpossessisconsiderable。OfthetwotheGaelicpossessesthemost，andthosehavegenerallymoreoftheSanscriticcharacter，thanthewordsofthesameclasswhicharetobefoundintheWelsh。TheWelsh，however，frequentlypossessestheprimarywordwhentheIrishdoesnot。Ofthisthefollowingisaninstance。OneofthenumerousIrishwordsforamountainiscodadh。ThiswordisalmostidenticalwiththeSanscritkuta，whichalsosignifiesamountain；