gavehim，thatheprachedasermonaboutmeinthechapel，inwhichhesaidthathehadcastsixofmydivilsoutofme，andshouldcastouttheseventh，whichwasthelast，bythenextSabbath，andthenshouldpresentmetothefolksinthechapelaspureavesselastheblessedMaryherself—andthatIwasdestinedtoaccomplishgreatthings，andtobeamightyinstrumentinthehandsoftheHolyChurch，forthatheintendedtowriteabookaboutme，describingthemiraclehehadperformedincastingthesevendivilsoutofme，whichheshouldgetprintedattheprinting—pressoftheblessedColumba，andshouldsendmethroughallIrelandtosellthecopies，theprofitsofwhichwouldgotowardsthesupportoftheholysocietyforcastingoutunclanespirits，towhichhehimselfbelonged。Well，thepeopleshowedthattheywereplasedbyaloudshout，andwentawaylongingforthenextSundaywhenIwastobepresentedtothemwithoutadivilinme。FivetimesthenextweekdidIgotothepriest’shouse，tobereadto，andbesprinkled，andhaveclothsputuponme，inorderthattheworkofcastingoutthelastdivil，whichitseemswasstrongerthanalltherest，mightbemadesmoothandaisy，andontheSaturdayIcametohavethelastdivilcastout，andfoundhisriverinceinfullcanonicals，seatedinhisaisychair。’Daughter，’saidhewhenhesawme，’theworkisnearlyover。Nowkneeldownbeforeme，andI
　　willmakethesignofthecrossoveryourforehead，andthenyouwillfeelthelastandstrongestofthedivils，whichhavesolongpossessedye，gooutofyethroughyoureyes，asIexpectyouwillsaytothepeopleassembledinthechapelto—morrow。’SoIputmyselfonmykneesbeforehisreverence，whoaftermutteringsomethingtohimself，eitherinLatinorShannaGailey—IbelieveitwasLatin，said，’Lookmeintheface，daughter！’Well，I
　　lookedhisreverenceintheface，andthereIsawhisnoselookingsolarge，red，andinvitingthatIcouldnotresistthetemptation，andbeforehisreverencecouldmakethesignofthecross，whichdoubtlesswouldhavedriventhediviloutofme，Imadeaspringatit，andseizingholdofitwithforefingerandthumb，pulledhardatit。Hotandinctiousdiditfeel。Oh，theyellthathisreverencegave！However，Ididnotletgomyhold，butkeptpullingatthenose，tillatlasttoavoidthetorment，hisreverencecametumblingdownuponme，causingmebyhisweighttofallbackuponthefloor。Attheyellwhichhegave，andatthenoiseofthefall，incamerushinghisreverence’shousekeeperandstable—boy，whoseeingusdownonthefloor，hisreverenceuponmeandmyhandholdinghisreverence’snose，forIfeltlothtoletitgo，theyremainedinastonishmentandsuspense。Whenhisreverence，however，beggedthem，fortheVirgin’ssake，toseparatehimfromthedivilofawoman，theyranforward，andhavingwithsomedifficultyfreedhisreverence’snosefrommyhand，theyhelpedhimup。Thefirstthingthathisreverencedid，onbeingplacedonhislegs，wastomakeforahorse—whip，whichstoodinonecorneroftheroom，butIguessinghowhemeanttouseit，sprangupfromthefloor，andbeforehecouldmakeacutatme，ranoutoftheroom，andhastedhome。Thenextday，whenallthepeoplefortwentymilesroundmetinthechapel，intheexpectationofseeingmepresentedtothemapurifiedandholyfemale，andhearingfrommymouththeaccountofthemiraclewhichhisreverencehadperformed，hisreverencemadehisappearanceinthepulpitwithadaleofgouldbater’sleafonhisnose，andfromthepulpithetoldthepeoplehowIhadusedhim，showingthemthegouldbater’sleafonhisfeature，astestimonyofthetruthofhiswords，finishingbysayingthatifatfirstthereweresevendevils，therewerenowseventimessevenwithinme。Well，whenthepeopleheardthestory，andsawhisnosewiththebater’sleafuponit，theyatfirstbegantolaugh，butwhenheappealedtotheirconsciences，andaskedthemifsuchwasfittingtratementforapraist，theysaiditwasnot，andthatifhewouldonlybutcurseme，theywouldsoondohimjusticeuponme。Hisreverencethencursedbybook，bell，andcandle，andthepeople，settingofffromthechapel，cameinacrowdtothehousewhereIlived，towrakevengeanceuponme。Overtakingmysonbytheway，whowascominghomeinastateofintoxication，theybatehimwithinaninchofhislife，andlefthimsenselessontheground，andnodoubtwouldhaveservedmemuchworse，onlyseeingthemcoming，andguessingwhattheycameabout，thoughIwasabitintoxicatedmyself，I
　　escapedbythebackofthehouseoutintothebog，whereIhidmyselfamidstacopseofhazels。Thepeoplecomingtothehouse，andnotfindingmethere，brokeanddestroyedeverybitoffurniture，andwouldhavepulledthehousedown，orsetfiretoit，hadnotanindividualamongthemcriedoutthatdoingsowouldbeofnouse，forthatthehousedidnotbelongtome，andthatdestroyingitwouldmerelybeaninjurytothenexttenant。Sothepeople，afterbreakingmyfurnitureandill—tratingtwoorthreedumbbeasts，whichhappenednottohavebeenmadeawaywith，wentaway，andinthedeadofnightIreturnedtothehouse，whereI
　　foundmyson，whohadjustcrawledhomecoveredwitbruises。Wehadn’t，however，ahomelong，fortheagentsofthelandlordcametoseizeforrent，tookalltheycouldfind，andturnedusoutuponthewideworld。Myselfandsonwanderedtogetherforanhourortwo，then，havingaquarrelwitheachother，weparted，hegoingonewayandIanother。SomelittletimeafterIheardthathewastransported。Asformyself，IthoughtImightaswelltakealeafoutofthewoman’sbookwhohadbeentheruinofme。SoIwentaboutbiddingpeoplegivemealmsforthegloryofGod，andthreateningthosewhogavemenothingthatthemassshouldnevercomfortthem。It’sadreadfulcursethat，honey；andIwouldadvisepeopletoavoiditeventhoughtheygiveawayalltheyhave。
　　Ifyouhavenocomfortinthemass，youwillhavecomfortinnothingelse。Lookatme：Ihavenocomfortinthemass，forassoonasthepriest’sbellrings，Ishoutsandhoorahs，andperformstumblingsbeforetheblessedcorpus，gettingmyselfkickedoutofchapel，andaslittlecomfortasIhaveinthemasshaveIinotherthings，whichshouldbeacomforttome。Ihavetwosonswhooughttobethegreatestcomforttome，butaretheyso？We’llsee—oneistransported，andofcourseisnocomforttomeatall。Theotherisasodger。Isheacomforttome？Notabit。AmonthagowhenIwastravellingthroughtheblacknorth，tumblingandtopplingabout，andthreateningpeoplewithmyprayer，unlesstheygavemealms，awoman，whoknewme，toldmethathewaswithhisregimentatCardiff，hereinWales，whereuponIdeterminedtogoandseehim，andcrossingthewatergotintoEngland，fromwhenceI
　　walkedtoCardiffaskingalmsoftheEnglishinthecommonEnglishway，andoftheIrish，andyearethefirstIrishIhavemet，inthewayinwhichIaskedthemofyou。ButwhenIgottoCardiffdidIseemyson？Ididnot，forthedaybeforehehadsailedwithhisregimenttoaplacetenthousandmilesaway，soIshallneverseehisfaceagainnorderivecomfortfromhim。Oh，ifthere’snocomfortfromthemassthere’snocomfortfromanythingelse，andhewhohastheevilprayerintheShannaGaileybreatheduponhim，willhavenocomfortfromthemass。Now，honey，yehaveheardthestoryofJohannaColgan，thebedivilledwoman。Givehernowadacentalmsandlethergo！"
　　"Wouldyouconsidersixpenceadecentalms？"
　　"Iwould。Ifyougivemesixpence，Iwillnotsaymyprayeroverye。"
　　"Wouldyougivemeablessing？"
　　"Iwouldnot。Abedivilledwomanhasnoblessingtogive。"
　　"SurelyifyouareabletoaskpeopletogiveyoualmsforthegloryofGod，youareabletogiveablessing。"
　　"Bodderation！areyegoingtogivemesixpence？"
　　"No！here’sashillingforyou！Takeitandgoinpeace。"
　　"There’snopaceforme，"saidJohannaColgan，takingthemoney。
　　"Whatdidthemonstrousfemalesaytome？’Biaidhantaifrionngansholasduitabheanshalach。’（23）Thisismypace—hoorah！
　　hoorah！"thengivingtwoorthreegrotesquetopplesshehurriedawayinthedirectionofMerthyrTydvil。
　　CHAPTERCVI
　　PenyGlas—SaltoftheEarth—TheQuakers’Yard—TheRhugylgroen。
　　ASIproceededonmywaythescenerytothesouthonthefarthersideoftheriverbecamesurprisinglybeautiful。Onthatsidenoblemountainsmettheview，greenfieldsandmajesticwoods，thelatterbrownitistrue，fortheirleavesweregone，butnotthelessmajesticforbeingbrown。Hereandtherewerewhitefarm—
　　houses：oneofthem，whichIwastoldwascalledPenyGlas，wasatrulylovelylittleplace。Itstoodonthesideofagreenhillwithanobleforestaboveit，andputmewonderfullyinmindofthehuntinglodge，whichIforHaelallottedasaretreattoAbGwilymandMorfydd，whentheyfledtohimfromCardigantoavoidtherageoftheBowBach，andwhosecharmingappearancemadehimsaytohislove：—
　　"MoreblissforusourfatepropoundsOnTaf’sgreenbanksthanTeivy’sbounds。"
　　OnIwandered。Aftersometimethevalleyassumedtheformofanimmensebasin，enormousmountainscomposeditssides。Inthemiddlerosehillsofsomealtitude，butcompletelyovercrownedbythemountainsaround。Thesehillsexhibitedpleasantinclosures，andwerebeautifullydottedwithwhitefarm—houses。DownbelowmeanderedtheTaf，itsreachesshiningwithasilver—likesplendour。Thewholetogetherformedanexquisitepicture，inwhichtherewasmuchsublimity，muchstillquietlife，andnotalittleoffantasticfairyloveliness。
　　ThesunwashasteningtowardsthewestasIpassedalittlecascadeontheleft，thewatersofwhich，afterrunningundertheroad，tumbleddownagullyintotheriver。ShortlyafterwardsmeetingamanIaskedhimhowfaritwastoCaerfili。
　　"WhenyoucometotheQuakers’Yard，whichisalittlewayfurtheron，youwillbesevenmilesfromCaerfili。"
　　"WhatistheQuakers’Yard？"
　　"AplacewherethepeoplecalledQuakersburytheirdead。"
　　"Isthereavillagenearit？
　　"Thereis，andthevillageiscalledbythesamename。"
　　"ArethereanyQuakersinit？"
　　"Notone，norintheneighbourhood，buttherearesome，Ibelieve，inCardiff。"
　　"Whydotheyburytheirdeadthere？"
　　"Youshouldaskthem，notme。Iknownothingaboutthem，anddon’twant；theyareabadsetofpeople。"
　　"Didtheyeverdoyouanyharm？"
　　"Can’tsaytheydid。IndeedIneversawoneinthewholeofmylife。"
　　"Thenwhydoyoucallthembad？"
　　"Becauseeverybodysaystheyare。"
　　"Noteverybody。Idon’t；Ihavealwaysfoundthemthesaltoftheearth。"
　　"Thenitissaltthathaslostitssavour。Butperhapsyouareoneofthem？"
　　"No，IbelongtotheChurchofEngland。"
　　"Oh，youdo。Thengood—nighttoyou。IamaMethodist。Ithoughtatfirstthatyouwereoneofourministers，andhadhopedtohearfromyousomethingprofitableandconducivetosalvation，but—"
　　"Well，soyoushall。Neverspeakillofpeopleofwhomyouknownothing。Ifthatisn’tasayingconducivetosalvation，Iknownotwhatis。Goodeveningtoyou。"
　　Isoonreachedthevillage。Singularenough，thepeopleoftheveryfirsthouse，atwhichIinquiredabouttheQuakers’Yard，wereentrustedwiththecareofit。Onmyexpressingawishtoseeit，ayoungwomantookdownakey，andsaidthatifIwouldfollowhershewouldshowitme。TheQuakers’burying—placeissituatedonalittlepeninsulaortongueofland，havingabrookonitseasternandnorthernsides，andonitswesterntheTaf。Itisalittleoblongyard，withlowwalls，partlyoverhungwithivy。Theentranceisaporchtothesouth。TheQuakersarenofriendstotombstones，andtheonlyvisibleevidencethatthiswasaplaceofburialwasasingleflag—stone，withahalf—obliteratedinscription，whichwithsomedifficultyIdeciphered，andwasasfollows：—
　　TotheMemoryofTHOMASEDMUNDS
　　WhodiedApriltheninth1802aged60years。
　　AndofMARYEDMUNDS
　　WhodiedJanuarythefourth1810aged70。
　　ThebeamsofthedescendingsungildedtheQuakers’burial—groundasItroditsprecincts。Alovelyresting—placelookedthatlittleoblongyardonthepeninsula，bytheconfluenceofthewaters，andquiteinkeepingwiththecharacterofthequietChristianpeoplewhosleepwithinit。TheQuakershaveforsometimepastbeenadecayingsect，buttheyhavedonegoodworkintheirday，andwhentheyareextincttheyarenotdestinedtobesoonforgotten。Soonforgotten！Howshouldasecteverbeforgotten，towhichhavebelongedthreesuchmenasGeorgeFox，WilliamPenn，andJosephGurney？
　　ShortlyafterIlefttheQuakers’Yardthesunwentdownandtwilightsettledupontheearth。PursuingmycourseIreachedsomewoodlands，andoninquiringofaman，whomIsawstandingatthedoorofacottage，thenameofthedistrict，wastoldthatitwascalledYstradManach—theMonks’Strathorvalley。Thisnameitprobablyacquiredfromhavingbelongedintimesofoldtosomemonkishestablishment。Themoonnowaroseandthenightwasdelightful。AsIwaswanderingalongIheardagainthesamewildnoisewhichIhadheardthenightbefore，ontheothersideofMerthyrTydvil。Thecryoftheowlafaroffinthewoodlands。Ohthatstrangebird！Ohthatstrangecry！TheWelsh，asIhavesaidonaformeroccasion，calltheowlDylluan。AmongstthecowyddsofAbGwilymthereisonetothedylluan。Itisfullofabuseagainstthebird，withwhomthepoetisveryangryforhavingwithitscryfrightenedMorfyddback，whowascomingtothewoodtokeepanassignationwithhim，butnotalittleofthisabuseiswonderfullyexpressiveandtruthful。Hecallstheowlagreythief—thehaunteroftheivybush—thechickoftheoak，ablinkingeyedwitch，greedyofmice，withavisagelikethebaldforeheadofabigram，orthedirtyfaceofanoldabbess，whichbearsnolittleresemblancetothechineofanape。Ofitscryhesaysthatitisasgreatatormentasanagonizingrecollection，acoldshrilllaughfromthemidstofakettleofice；therattlingofsea—
　　pebblesinanoldsheep—skin，onwhichaccountmanycalltheowlthehagoftheRhugylgroen。TheRhugylgroen，itwillbeaswelltoobserve，isadrysheepskincontaininganumberofpebbles，andisusedasarattleforfrighteningcrows。Thelikeningthevisageoftheowltothedirtyfaceofanoldabbessiscapital，andthelikeningthecrytothenoiseoftherhugylgroenisanythingbutunfortunate。For，afterall，whatdoesthevoiceoftheowlsomuchresembleasadiabolicalrattle。I’msureIdon’tknow。
　　Reader，doyou？
　　IreachedCaerfiliataboutseveno’clock，andwenttothe"Boar’sHead，"neartheruinsofastupendouscastle，onwhichthebeamsofthemoonwerefalling。
　　CHAPTERCVII
　　CaerfiliCastle—SirCharles—TheWaiter—Inkerman。
　　ISLEPTwellduringthenight。InthemorningafterbreakfastI
　　wenttoseethecastle，overwhichIwasconductedbyawomanwhowasintrustedwithitscare。Itstandsontheeasternsideofthelittletown，andisatrulyenormousstructure，whichbroughttomyrecollectionasayingofourgreatJohnson，tobefoundintheaccountofhisjourneytotheWesternIslands，namely"thatforallthecastleswhichhehadseenbeyondtheTweedtheruinsyetremainingofsomeoneofthosewhichtheEnglishbuiltinWaleswouldfindmaterials。"TheoriginalfounderwasoneJohnDeBryse，apowerfulNormanwhomarriedthedaughterofLlewellynApJorwerth，theson—in—lawofKingJohn，andthemostwar—likeofalltheWelshprinces，whoseexploits，andparticularlyavictorywhichheobtainedoverhisfather—in—law，withwhomhewasalwaysatwar，havebeenimmortalizedbythegreatwar—bard，DafyddBenfras。ItwasoneofthestrongholdswhichbelongedtotheSpencers，andservedforashorttimeasaretreattotheunfortunateEdwardtheSecond。ItwasruinedbyCromwell，thegrandfoeofthebaronialcastlesofBritain，butnotinsothoroughandsweepingamannerastoleaveitamereheapofstones。Thereisanobleentranceporchfrontingthewest—aspaciouscourtyard，agrandbanquetingroom，acorridorofvastlength，severalloftytowers，achapel，asally—
　　port，aguard—roomandastrangeundergroundvaultedplacecalledthemint，inwhichCaerfili’sbaronsoncecoinedmoney，andinwhichthefurnacesstillexistwhichwereusedformeltingmetal。
　　ThenameCaerfiliissaidtosignifytheCastleofHaste，andtohavebeenbestowedonthepilebecauseitwasbuiltinahurry。
　　Caerfili，however，wasneverbuiltinahurry，astheremainsshow。
　　Moreover，theWelshwordforhasteisnotfilbutffrwst。Filmeansascuddingordartingthroughtheair，whichcanhavenothingtodowiththebuildingofacastle。CaerfilisignifiesPhilip’sCity，andwascalledsoafteronePhilipasaint。ItnomoremeansthecastleofhastethanTintagelinCornwallsignifiesthecastleofguile，asthelearnedhavesaiditdoes，forTintagelsimplymeansthehouseinthegillofthehill，atermadmirablydescriptiveofthesituationofthebuilding。
　　IstartedfromCaerfiliatelevenforNewport，distantaboutseventeenmiles。Passingthroughatoll—gateIascendedanacclivity，fromthetopofwhichIobtainedafullviewofthecastle，lookingstern，darkandmajestic。DescendingthehillI
　　cametoabridgeoverarivercalledtheRhymniorRumney，muchcelebratedinWelshandEnglishsong—thencetoPentrefBettws，orthevillageofthebead—house，doubtlesssocalledfromitshavingcontainedinoldtimesahouseinwhichpilgrimsmighttelltheirbeads。
　　Thescenerysoonbecameverybeautiful—itsbeauty，however，wastoacertainextentmarredbyahorridblackobject，ahugecoalwork，thechimneysofwhichwerebelchingforthsmokeofthedensestdescription。"Whomdoesthatworkbelongto？"saidItoamannearlyasblackasachimneysweep。
　　"Whodoesitbelongto？Why，toSirCharles。"
　　"DoyoumeanSirCharlesMorgan？"
　　"Idon’tknow。IonlyknowthatitbelongstoSirCharles，thekindest—heartedandrichestmaninWalesandinEnglandtoo。"
　　PassingsomecottagesIheardagroupofchildrenspeakingEnglish。
　　Askedanintelligent—lookinggirlifshecouldspeakWelsh。
　　"Yes，"saidshe，"Icanspeakit，butnotverywell。"ThereisnotmuchWelshspokenbythechildrenhereabout。Theoldfolksholdmoretoit。
　　IsawagaintheRhymniriver，andcrosseditbyabridge；theriverherewasfilthyandturbid，owingofcoursetoitshavingreceivedthefouldrainingsoftheneighbouringcoalworks。ShortlyafterwardsIemergedfromthecoomorvalleyoftheRhymni，andentereduponafertileandtolerablyleveldistrict。PassedbyLlanawstandMachen。Thedaywhichhadbeenveryfinenowbecamedarkandgloomy。Suddenly，asIwasdescendingaslope，abrilliantparty，consistingoffouryoungladiesinriding—habits，ayouthfulcavalierandaservantinsplendidlivery—allonnoblehorses，sweptpastmeatfullgallopdownthehill。Almostimmediatelyafterwards，seeingaroad—menderwhowasstandingholdinghiscapinhishand—whichhehadnodoubtjustreverentiallydoffed—IsaidinWelsh："Whoarethoseladies？"
　　"MerchedSirCharles—thedaughtersofSirCharles，"hereplied。
　　"Andisthegentlemantheirbrother？"
　　"No！thebrotherisintheCrim—fightingwiththeRoosiaid。I
　　don’tknowwhoyongentlemanbe。"
　　"WheredoesSirCharleslive？"
　　"DownintheDyfryn，notfarfromBasallaig。"
　　"IfIweretogoandseehim，"Isaid，"doyouthinkhewouldgivemeacupofale？"
　　"Idaresayhewould；hehasgivenmeonemanyatime。"
　　IsoonreachedBasallaig，apleasantvillagestandinginavalleyandnearlysurroundedbythegrovesofSirCharlesMorgan。Seeingadecentpublic—houseIsaidtomyself，"IthinkIshallstepinandhavemyalehere，andnotgorunningafterSirCharles，whomperhapsafterallIshouldn’tfindathome。"SoIwentinandcalledforapintofale。OvermyaleItrifledforabouthalf—an—
　　hour，thenpayingmygroatIgotupandsetoffforNewport，inthemidstofathickmistwhichhadsuddenlycomeon，andwhichspeedilywettedmenearlytotheskin。
　　IreachedNewportatabouthalf—pastfour，andputupatalargeandhandsomeinncalledtheKing’sHead。Duringdinnerthewaiter，unasked，relatedtomehishistory。Hewasashortthickfellowofaboutforty，withaverydisturbedandfrightenedexpressionofcountenance。HesaidthathewasanativeofBrummagen，andhadlivedveryhappilyataninnthereaswaiter，butatlengthhadallowedhimselftobespiritedawaytoanestablishmenthighupinWalesamidstthescenery。Thatveryfewvisitorscametotheestablishment，whichwasinaplacesoawfullylonesomethathesoonbecamehipped，andwasmorethanoncehalfinamindtoflinghimselfintoariverwhichranbeforethedoorandmoaneddismally。
　　Thatatlasthethoughthisbestplanwouldbetodecamp，andaccordinglytookFrenchleaveearlyonemorning。ThataftermanyfrightsandmuchfatiguehehadfoundhimselfatNewport，andtakenserviceattheKing’sHead，butdidnotfeelcomfortable，andwasfrequentlyvisitedatnightbydreadfuldreams。ThatheshouldtakethefirstopportunityofgettingtoBrummagen，thoughhewasafraidthatheshouldnotbeabletogetintohisformerplace，owingtohisungratefulbehaviour。Hethenutteredarathereloquenteulogiumonthebeautiesoftheblackcapital，andwoundupallbysayingthathewouldratherbeabrazier’sdogatBrummagenthanheadwaiteratthebestestablishmentinWales。
　　AfterdinnerItookupanewspaperandfoundinitanaccountofthebattleofInkerman，whichappearedtohavebeenfoughtonthefifthofNovember，theverydayonwhichIhadascendedPlynlimmon。
　　Iwassorrytofindthatmycountrymenhadsuffereddreadfully，andwouldhavebeenutterlydestroyedbutfortheopportunearrivaloftheFrench。"Inmychildhood，"saidI，"theRussiansusedtohelpusagainsttheFrench；nowtheFrenchhelpusagainsttheRussians。
　　WhoknowsbutbeforeIdieImayseetheRussianshelpingtheFrenchagainstus？"
　　CHAPTERCVIII
　　TownofNewport—TheUsk—NoteofRecognition—AnOldAcquaintance—ConnamaraQuean—TheWake—TheWildIrish—TheTrampingLife—BusinessandPrayer—Methodists—GoodCounsel。
　　NEWPORTisalargetowninMonmouthshire，andhadoncewallsandacastle。ItiscalledinWelshCasNewyddarWysg，ortheNewCastleupontheUsk。ItstandssomemilesbelowCaerlleonarWysg，andwasprobablybuiltwhenthatplace，atonetimeoneofthemostconsiderabletownsinBritain，begantofallintodecay。TheWysgorUskhasitssourceamongsomewildhillsinthesouth—westofBreconshire，and，afterabsorbingseveralsmallerstreams，amongstwhichistheHondu，atthemouthofwhichBreconstands，whichonthataccountiscalledinWelshAberHondu，andtraversingthewholeofMonmouthshire，enterstheBristolChannelnearNewport，towhichplacevesselsofconsiderableburdencanascend。WysgorUskisanancientBritishword，signifyingwater，andisthesameastheIrishworduisgeorwhiskey，forwhiskey，thoughgenerallyservingtodenoteaspirituousliquor，ingreatvogueamongsttheIrish，meanssimplywater。Thepropertermforthespiritisuisquebaugh，literallyacquavitae，butthecompoundbeingabbreviatedbytheEnglish，whohavealwaysbeennotoriousfortheirhabitofclippingwords，oneofthestrongestofspiritsisnowgenerallydenominatedbyawordwhichisproperlyexpressiveofthesimpleelementwater。
　　MonmouthshireisatpresentconsideredanEnglishcounty，thoughcertainlywithlittlereason，foritnotonlystandsonthewesternsideoftheWye，butthenamesofalmostallitsparishesareWelsh，andmanythousandsofitspopulationstillspeaktheWelshlanguage。ItiscalledinWelshSir，orShire，Fynwy，andtakesitsnamefromthetownMynwyorMonmouth，whichreceivesitsownappellationfromtheriverMynwyorMinno，onwhichitstands。
　　Thereisariverofmuchthesamename，notinMacedonbutinthePeninsula，namelytheMinho，whichprobablygotitsdenominationfromthatracecognatetotheCumry，theGael，whowerethefirstcolonisersofthePeninsula，andwhosegenericnameyetstaresusinthefaceandsalutesourearsinthewordsGaliciaandPortugal。
　　IleftNewportataboutteno’clockonthe16th；theroadswereverywet，therehavingbeenadelugeofrainduringthenight。ThemorningwasaregularNovemberone，dullandgloomy。DesirousofknowingwhereaboutsinthesepartstheWelshlanguageceased，I
　　interrogatedseveralpeoplewhomImet。FirstspoketoEstherWilliams。ShetoldmeshecamefromPennow，somemilesfartheron，thatshecouldspeakWelsh，andthatindeedallthepeoplecouldforatleasteightmilestotheeastofNewport。Thislatterassertionofherswas，however，anythingbutcorroboratedbyayoungwoman，withapitcheronherhead，whomIshortlyafterwardsmet，forsheinformedmethatshecouldspeaknoWelsh，andthatforonewhocouldspeakit，fromwhereIwastotheplacewhereitceasedaltogether，thereweretenwhocouldnot。IbelievetherealfactisthatabouthalfthepeopleforsevenoreightmilestotheeastofNewportspeakWelsh，moreorless，asabouthalfthosewhomImetandaddressedinWelsh，answeredmeinthattongue。