andbeyondtheseIcaughtasightofthemountainonthetopofwhichIhadbeenthenightbefore—onlyapartialone，however，aslargemassesofmistwerestillhangingaboutit。Themorningwasmoistanddripping，andnothingcouldlookmorecheerlessanduncomfortablethantheentirescene。
　　Iputonmythings，whichwerestillnothalfdry，andwentdownintothelittleparlour，whereIfoundanexcellentfireawaitingme，andatablespreadforbreakfast。Thebreakfastwasdelicious，consistingofexcellenttea，butteredtoast，andGlamorgansausages，whichIreallythinkarenotawhitinferiortothoseofEpping。AfterbreakfastIwentintothekitchen，whichwasnowonlyoccupiedbytwoorthreepeople。Seeingalargebrushonadresser，Itookitup，andwasabouttobrushmynetherhabiliments，whichwereterriblybespatteredwithhalf—driedmire。
　　Before，however，Icouldbegin，upstartedoneofthemen，awild，shock—headedfellowdressedlikeacarter，inroughbluefriezecoat，yellow，broadcorduroytrowsers，greywoollenstockingsandhighlows，andsnatchingthebrushoutofmyhand，felltobrushingmemostvigorously，puffingandblowingallthetimeinamosttremendousmanner。Ididnotrefusehisservices，butlethimgoon，andtorewardhimasIthought，spokekindlytohim，askinghimvariousquestions。"Areyouacarter？"saidI。Noanswer。"OneofTwmO’rNant’speople？"Noanswer。"FamousfellowthatTwmO’rNant，wasn’the？DidyoueverhearhowhegotthegreattreeinatCarmarthenGate？Whatiswoodperfootatpresent？Whomdoyoucartfor？Orareyouyourownmaster？Ifso，howmanyhorsesdoyoukeep？"
　　Tonotoneofthesequestions，nortoadozenotherswhichIput，bothinEnglishandWelsh，didmyfriendwiththebrushreturnanyverbalanswer，thoughIcouldoccasionallyhearakindofstifledgiggleproceedingfromhim。Havingatlengththoroughlybrushednotonlymyclothes，butmybootsandmyhat，whichlastarticlehetookfrommyhead，andplaceditonagainverydexterously，afterbrushingit，heputthebrushdownonthedresser，andthenadvancingtomemademeabow，andwavinghisforefingerbackwardsandforwardsbeforemyface，hesaid，withabroadgrin："Nicegentleman—willdoanythingforhimbutanswerquestions，andlethimhearmydiscourse。Lovetolistentohispleasantstoriesofforeignlands，ghostsandtylwithteg；butbeforehim，deemitwisetobemum，quitemum。Knowwhathecomesabout。Wantstoheardiscourseofpoorman，thathemaylearnfromitpoorman’slittlewaysandinfirmities，andmarkthemdowninonesmall，littlebooktoserveforfuntoLordPalmerstonandtheothergreatgentlefolksinLondon。Niceman，civilman，Idon’tdeny；andclebbermantoo，forheknowsWelsh，andhasbeeneverywhere—butfox—oldfox—
　　livesatPlasyCadno。"（18）
　　Havingbeeninformedthattherewasaconsiderableironfoundrycloseby，Ithoughtitwouldbeworthmywhiletogoandseeit。I
　　enteredthepremises，andwasstandingandlookinground，whenamanwiththeappearanceofarespectablemechaniccameupandofferedtoshowmeovertheplace。Igladlyacceptedhisoffer，andheshowedmeallabouttheironfoundry。Isawalargesteam—
　　engineatfullplay，terriblefurnaces，andimmenseheapsofburning，cracklingcinders，andafierystreamofmoltenmetalrollingalong。Afterseeingwhattherewastobeseen，Iofferedapieceofsilvertomykindconductor，whichheatoncerefused。Onmyaskinghim，however，togototheinnandhaveafriendlyglass，hesmiled，andsaidhehadnoobjection。Sowewenttotheinn，andhadtwofriendlyglassesofwhiskey—and—watertogether，andalsosomediscourse。IaskedhimiftherewereanyEnglishemployedonthepremises。"None，"saidhe，"norIrisheither；weareallWelsh。"ThoughhewasaWelshman，hisnamewasaverycommonEnglishone。
　　Afterpayingthereckoning，whichonlyamountedtothreeandsixpence，IdepartedforSwansea，distantaboutthirteenmiles。
　　GutterVawrconsistsofonestreet，extendingforsomelittlewayalongtheSwansearoad，thefoundry，andanumberofhutsandhousesscatteredhereandthere。Thepopulationiscomposedalmostentirelyofminers，theworkersatthefoundry，andtheirfamilies。
　　ForthefirsttwoorthreemilesthecountrythroughwhichIpasseddidnotatallprepossessmeinfavourofGlamorganshire：itconsistedoflow，sullen，peatyhills。Subsequently，however，itimprovedrapidly，becomingbold，wild，andpleasantlywooded。Theaspectofthedayimproved，also，withtheappearanceofthecountry。WhenIfirststartedthemorningwaswretchedanddrizzly，butinlessthananhouritclearedupwonderfully，andthesunbegantoflashout。AsIlookedonthebrightluminaryI
　　thoughtofAbGwilym’sodetothesunandGlamorgan，andwithbreastheavingandwitheyesfulloftears，Ibegantorepeatpartsofit，orratherofatranslationmadeinmyhappyboyishyears：—
　　"Eachmorn，benignofcountenance，UponGlamorgan’spennonglance！
　　EachafternooninbeautyclearAbovemyowndearboundsappear！
　　Brightoutlineofablessedclime，Again，thoughsunk，arisesublime—
　　Uponmyerrand，swiftrepair，AnduntogreenGlamorganbearGooddaysandtermsofcourtesyFrommydearcountryandfromme！
　　Moveround—butneedItheecommand？—
　　Itschalk—whitehalls，whichcheerfulstand—
　　Pleasantthyownpavilionstoo—
　　Itsfieldsandorchardsfairtoview。
　　"O，pleasantisthytaskandhighInradiantwarmthtoroamthesky，Tokeepfromillthatkindlyground，Itsmeadsandfarms，wheremeadisfound，Alandwhosecommonslivecontent，Whereeachman’slotisexcellent，Wherehoststohailtheeshallupstand，Whereladsareboldandlassesbland，AlandIoftfromhillthat’shighHavegazeduponwithraptur’deye；
　　Wheremaidsaretrainedinvirtue’sschool，Whereduteouswivesspindaintywool；
　　Acountrywitheachgiftsupplied，ConfrontingCornwall’scliffsofpride。"
　　CametoLlanguick，ahamletsituatednearatremendousgorge，thesidesofwhichwerecoveredwithwood。ThencetothevillageofTawyBridge，atthebottomofabeautifulvalley，throughwhichrunstheTawy，which，aftertheTaf，isthemostconsiderableriverinGlamorganshire。Continuingmycourse，Ipassedbyanenormousedificewhichstoodonmyrighthand。Ithadhugechimneys，whichwerecastingforthsmoke，andfromwithinIheardthenoiseofasteam—engineandtheroaroffurnaces。
　　"Whatplaceisthis？"said，Itoaboy。
　　"Gwaithhaiarn，sir；ymperthyniMrPearson。MrPearson’sironworks，sir。"
　　Iproceeded，andinabouthalf—an—hoursawamanwalkingbeforemeinthesamedirectioninwhichIwas。Hewasgoingverybriskly，butIsooncameuptohim。Hewasasmall，well—madefellow，withreddishhairandruddy，determinedcountenance，somewhattanned。
　　Heworeastrawhat，checkeredshirt，openattheneck，canvastrousersandbluejacket。Onhisfeetwereshoesremarkablythin，butnostockings，andinhishandheheldastoutstick，withwhich，justbeforeIovertookhim，hestruckaroundstonewhichlayontheground，sendingitflyingatleastfiftyyardsbeforehimontheroad，andfollowingitinitsflightwithawildandsomewhatstartlinghalloo。
　　"Good—day，myfriend，"saidI；"youseemtobeabletouseastick。"
　　"AndsureIoughttobe，yourhonour，seeingashowmyfathertaughtme，whowasthebestfightingmanwithastickthattheShanavestseverhad。ManyistheheadofaCaravautthathehasbrokenwithsomesuchanAlpeenwattleastheoneIamcarryingwithmehere。"
　　"Agoodthing，"saidI，"thattherearenoOldWaist—coatsandCravatsatpresent，atleastbloodyfactionsbearingthosenames。"
　　"Yourhonourthinksso！Faith！Iamclaneofacontraryopinion。
　　IwishtheouldShanavestsandCaravautswerefightingstill，andI
　　amongthem。Faith！therewassomelifeinIrelandintheirdays。"
　　"Andplentyofdeathtoo，"saidI。"HowfortunateitisthattheIrishhavetheEnglishamongthemtopreventtheircuttingeachother’sthroats。"
　　"TheEnglishpreventtheIrishfromcuttingeachother’sthroats！
　　Well，iftheydo，itisonlythattheymayhavethepleasureofcuttingthemthemselves。Thebloodytyrants！toolonghastheirfootbeenupontheneckofpooroldIreland。"
　　"HowdotheEnglishtyranniseoverIreland？"
　　"Howdotheytyranniseoverher？Don’ttheypreventherfromhavingthefreeexerciseofherCatholicreligion，andmakeherhelptosupporttheirownProtestantone？"
　　"Well，anddon’ttheRomanCatholicspreventtheProtestantsfromhavingthefreeexerciseoftheirreligion，whenevertheyhappentobethemostnumerous，anddon’ttheymakethemhelptosupporttheRomanCatholicreligion？"
　　"Ofcoursetheydo，andquiteright！HadImywill，thereshouldn’tbeaplaceofProtestantworshipleftstanding，oraProtestantchurlallowedtogoaboutwithaheadunbroken。"
　　"ThenwhydoyoublametheProtestantsforkeepingtheRomansalittleunder？"
　　"WhydoIblamethem？Apurtyquestion！Why，an’ttheywrong，andan’tweright？"
　　"Buttheysaythattheyarerightandyouwrong。"
　　"Theysay！whomindswhattheysay？Haven’twethewordoftheblessedPopethatweareright？"
　　"AndtheysaythattheyhavethewordoftheblessedGospelthatyouarewrong。"
　　"TheGospel！whocaresfortheGospel？SurelyyouarenotgoingtocomparetheGospelwiththePope？"
　　"Well，theycertainlyarenottobenamedinthesameday。"
　　"Theyarenot？Thengoodlucktoyou！Wearebothofthesameopinion。Ah，IthoughtyourhonourwasaraleCatholic。Now，tellmefromwhatkingdomofIrelanddoesyourhonourhail？"
　　"Why，IwaspartlyeducatedinMunster。"
　　"InMunster！Hoorah！Here’sthehandofacountrymantoyourhonour。Ah，itwasasytobeseenfromthelearning，whichyourhonourshows，thatyourhonourisfromMunster。There’snospotinIrelandlikeMunsterforlearning。Whatsaystheoldsong？
　　"’Ulsterforasoldier，Connaughtforathief，Munsterforlearning，AndLeinsterforbeef。’
　　"HoorahforlearnedMunster！anddownwithbeggarly，thievishConnaught！IwouldthataConnaughtmanwouldcomeathwartmenow，thatImightbreakhisthief’sheadwithmyAlpeen。"
　　"Youdon’tseemtoliketheConnaughtmen，"saidI。
　　"Likethem！whocanlikethem？aparcelofbeggarlythievishblackguards。SoyourhonourwasedicatedinMunster—Imanepartlyedicated。Isupposebyyoursayingthatyouwerepartlyedicated，thatyourhonourwasintendedfortheclericalprofession，butbeingoverfondofthedropwasforcedtolavecollegebeforeyouredicationwasquitecompleted，andsoforwantofabetterprofessiontookupwiththatofmerchandise。Ah，theloveofthedropatcollegehaspreventedmanyacleveryoungfellowfromtakingholyorders。Well，it’sapitybutitcan’tbehelped。Iamfondofadropmyself，andwhenwegetto—shallbehappytoofferyourhonouraglassofwhiskey。IhopeyourhonourandIshallsplicethemainbracetogetherbeforewepart。"
　　"Isuppose，"saidI，"byyourtalkingofsplicingthemainbracethatyouareasailor。"
　　"Iam，yourhonour，andhailfromtheCoveofCorkinthekingdomofMunster。"
　　"Iknowitwell，"saidI，"itisthebestsea—basinintheworld。
　　Well，howcameyouintotheseparts？"
　　"I’lltellyourhonour；myshipisatSwansea，andhavingarelationworkingatthefoundrybehindusIcametoseehim。"
　　"Areyouintheroyalservice？"
　　"Iamnot，yourhonour；Iwasonceintheroyalservice，buthavingadisputewiththeboatswainatSpithead，Igavehimawipe，jumpedoverboardandswamashore。AfterthatIsailedforCuba，gotintothemerchants’servicethere，andmadeseveralvoyagestotheBlackCoast。AtpresentIamintheserviceofthemerchantsofCork。"
　　"Iwonderthatyouarenotnowintheroyalservice，"saidI，"sinceyouaresofondoffighting。ThereishotworkgoingonatpresentuptheBlackSea，andbravemen，especiallyIrishmen，areingreatrequest。"
　　"Yes，braveIrishmenarealwaysingreatrequestwithEnglandwhenshehasabattletofight。Atothertimestheyarelefttolieinthemudwiththechainroundtheirnecks。IthasbeensoeversincethetimeofDeCourcy，andIsupposealwayswillbeso，unlessIrishmenallbecomeofmymind，whichisnotlikely。WeretheIrishallofmymind，theEnglishwouldfindnoIrishchampiontofighttheirbattleswhentheFrenchortheRussianscometobeardthem。"
　　"ByDeCourcy，"saidI，"youmeanthemanwhomtheKingofEnglandconfinedintheTowerofLondonaftertakingfromhimhisbaronyinthecountyofCork。"
　　"Ofcourse，yourhonour，andwhomhekeptintheTowertilltheKingofFrancesentoverachampiontoinsultandbeardhim，whenthekingwasgladtotakeDeCourcyoutofthedungeontofighttheFrenchchampion，fordivilaoneofhisownEnglishfightingmendaredtaketheFrenchmaninhand。"
　　"AfinefellowthatDeCourcy，"saidI。
　　"Rathertoofondofthedropthough，likeyourhonourandmyself，forafterhehadcausedtheFrenchchampiontofleebackintoFrancehelostthegreaterpartoftherewardwhichtheKingofEnglandpromisedhim，solelybymakingtoofreewiththestrongdrink。Doesyourhonourrememberthatpartofthestory？"
　　"IthinkIdo，"saidI，"butIshouldbeverygladtohearyourelateit。"
　　"Thenyourhonourshall。RightgladwastheKingofEnglandwhentheFrenchchampionfledbacktoFrance，fornosoonerdidthedirtyspalpeenhearthattheyweregoingtobringDeCourcyagainsthim，thefameofwhosestrengthandcouragefilledthewholeworld，thanhebetookhimselfbacktohisowncountry，andwasneverheardofmore。Rightglad，Isay，wastheKingofEngland，andgaveleavetoDeCourcytoreturntoIreland。’Andyoushallhave，’
　　saidhe，’ofthebaronywhichItookfromyouallthatyoucanrideroundonthefirstdayofyourreturn。’SoDeCourcybetookhimselftoIrelandandtohisbarony，buthewasanythingbutaluckyman，thisDeCourcy，forhisfriendsandrelationsandtenantry，hearingofhiscoming，preparedagrandfestivalforhim，withallkindsofilligantviandsandpowerfulliquors，andwhenhearrivedthereitwaswaitingforhim，anddowntoithesat，andate，anddrank，andforjoyofseeinghimselfoncemoreamongsthisfriendsandtenantryinthehallofhisforefathers，andforloveofthedrop，whichhealwayshad，hedrankofthepowerfulliquorsmorethanheought，andtheupshotwasthathebecamedrunk，agusdobhianduinemaithsinmisgeadhdoceatheroglog；thegoodgentlemanwasdrunktillfouro’clock，andwhenheawokehefoundthathehadbuttwohoursofdayremainingtowinbackhisbravebarony。However，hedidnotloseheart，butmountedhishorseandsetoffridingasfastasamanjustpartlyrecoveredfromintoxicationcouldbeexpectedtodo，andhecontrivedtorideroundfourparishes，andonlyfour，andthesefourparisheswereallthatherecoveredofhisbravebarony，andallthathehadtoliveupontillhisdyingday，andallthathehadtoleavetohisdescendants，sothatDeCourcycouldscarcelybecalledaveryluckyman，afterall。"
　　ShortlyaftermyfriendthesailorhadconcludedhisaccountofDeCourcy，wearrivedinthevicinityofasmalltownorratherconsiderablevillage。Itstoodontheright—handsideoftheroad，frontingtheeast，havingahighromantichillbehinditonthesidesofwhichwerewoods，groves，andpleasant—lookingwhitehouses。
　　"Whatplaceisthis？"saidItomycompanion。
　　"Thisis—，yourhonour；andhere，ifyourhonourwillacceptaglassofwhiskeywewillsplicethemainbracetogether。"
　　"Thankyou，"saidI；"butIaminhastetogettoSwansea。
　　Moreover，ifIamoverfondofthedrop，asyousayIam，thesoonerIbegintopractiseabstinencethebetter。"
　　"Verytrue，yourhonour！Well，atanyrate，whenyourhonourgetstoSwansea，youwillnotbeabletosaythatPatFlannaganwalkedformileswithyourhonouralongtheroad，withoutofferingyourhonouraglassofwhiskey。"
　　"NorshallPatFlannaganbeabletosaythesamethingofmyhonour。IhaveashillinginmypocketatPatFlannagan’sservice，ifhechoosestosplicewithitthemainbraceforhimselfandforme。"
　　"Thankyourhonour；butIhaveashillinginmyownpocket，andadollartoo，andafive—poundnotebesides；soIneedn’tbebeholdenfordrinkmoneytoanybodyunderthesun。"
　　"Wellthen，farewell！Here’smyhand！—SlanleataPhatraicuiFlannagan！"
　　"Slanleatadhuine—uasail！"saidPatrick，givingmehishand；"andhealth，hope，andhappinesstoye。"
　　Thereuponheturnedasideto—，andIcontinuedmywaytoSwansea。
　　ArrivedataplacecalledGlandwr，abouttwomilesfromSwansea，I
　　foundthatIwassplashedfromtoptotoe，fortheroadswerefrightfullymiry，andwassorrytoperceivethatmybootshadgivenwayatthesoles，largepiecesofwhichwerestickingout。Imust，however，dothepoorthingsthejusticetosay，thatitwasnowonderthattheywereinthisdilapidatedcondition，forinthosebootsIhadwalkedatleasttwohundredmiles，overallkindsofpaths，sinceIhadgotthemsoledatLlangollen。"Well，"saidItomyself，"itwon’tdotoshowmyselfatSwanseainthiscondition，moreespeciallyasIshallgotothebesthotel；Imusttryandgetmyselfmadealittledecenthere。"Seeingalittleinn，onmyright，Ienteredit，andaddressingmyselftoaneatcomfortablelandlady，whowasstandingwithinthebar，Isaid：—
　　"Pleasetoletmehaveaglassofale！—andhearkee；asIhavebeenwalkingalongtheroad，Ishouldbegladoftheservicesofthe’boots。’"
　　"Verygood，sir，"saidthelandladywithacurtsey。
　　Thenshowingmeintoanicelittlesandedparlour，shebroughtmetheglassofale，andpresentlysentinaladwithaboot—jacktoministertome。Oh，whatcan’talittlemoneyeffect？Forsixpenceinthatsmallniceinn，Ihadaglassofale，mybootscleaned，andtheexcrescencescutoff，myclotheswipedwithadwile，andthenpassedoverwithabrush，andwasmyselfthankedoverandoveragain。Startingagainwithallthespiritedconfidenceofonewhohasjustcastoffhisslough，IsoonfoundmyselfinthesuburbsofSwansea。AsIpassedunderwhatappearedtobearailroadbridgeIinquiredinWelshofanancient—lookingman，incoalyhabiliments，ifitwasone。Heansweredinthesamelanguagethatitwas，theninstantlyaddedinEnglish：—
　　"YouhavetakenyourlastfarewellofWales，sir；it’snousespeakingWelshfartheron。"
　　Ipassedsomeimmenseedifices，probablymanufactories，andwassoonconvincedthat，whetherIwasinWalesornot，IwasnolongeramongstWelsh。ThepeoplewhomImetdidnotlooklikeWelsh。
　　TheyweretallerandbulkierthantheCambrians，andwerespeakingadissonantEnglishjargon。ThewomenhadmuchtheappearanceofDutchfisherwomen；someofthemwerecarryinghugeloadsontheirheads。IspokeinWelshtotwoorthreewhomIovertook。
　　"NoWelsh，sir！"
　　"Whydon’tyouspeakWelsh？"saidI。
　　"Becauseweneverlearntit。WearenotWelsh。"
　　"Whoareyouthen？"
　　"English；somecallsusFlamings。"
　　"Ah，ah！"saidItomyself；"Ihadforgot。"
　　PresentlyIenteredthetown，alarge，bustling，dirty，gloomyplace，andinquiringforthefirsthotel，wasdirectedtothe"MackworthArms，"inWineStreet。
　　AssoonasIwasshownintotheparlourIsummonedthe"boots，"andonhismakinghisappearanceIsaidinasternvoice："Mybootswantsoling；letthembedonebyto—morrowmorning。"
　　"Can’tbe，sir；it’snowSaturdayafternoon，theshoemakercouldn’tbeginthemto—night！"
　　"Butyoumustmakehim！"saidI；"andlookhere，Ishallgivehimashillingextra，andyouanextrashillingforseeingafterhim。"
　　"Yes，sir；I’llseeafterhim—theyshallbedone，sir。Bringyouyourslippersinstantly。GladtoseeyouagaininSwansea，sir，lookingsowell。"
　　CHAPTERCI
　　Swansea—TheFlemings—TowardsEngland。
　　SWANSEAiscalledbytheWelshAbertawe，whichsignifiesthemouthoftheTawy。Aber，asIhavemorethanoncehadoccasiontoobserve，signifiestheplacewhereariverentersintotheseaorjoinsanother。ItisaGaelicaswellasaCumricword，beingfoundintheGaelicnamesAberdeenandLochaber，andthereisgoodreasonforsupposingthatthewordharbourisderivedfromit。
　　SwanseaorSwanseyisacompoundwordofScandinavianorigin，whichmaymeaneitherariveraboundingwithswans，ortheriverofSwanr，thenameofsomenorthernadventurerwhosettleddownatitsmouth。ThefinaleaoreyistheNorwegianaa，whichsignifiesarunningwater；itisoffrequentoccurrenceinthenamesofriversinNorway，andisoftenfound，similarlymodified，inthoseofothercountrieswheretheadventurousNorwegiansformedsettlements。
　　Swanseafirstbecameaplaceofsomeimportanceshortlyafterthebeginningofthetwelfthcentury。Intheyear1108，thegreaterpartofFlandershavingbeensubmergedbythesea（19）animmensenumberofFlemingscameovertoEngland，andentreatedofHenrytheFirstthekingthenoccupyingthethrone，thathewouldallallottothemlandsinwhichtheymightsettle，ThekingsentthemtovariouspartsofWales，whichhadbeenconqueredbyhisbaronsorthoseofhispredecessors：aconsiderablenumberoccupiedSwanseaandtheneighbourhood；butfarthegreaterpartwenttoDyfed，generallybutimproperlycalledPembroke，thesouth—easternpartofwhich，byfarthemostfertile，theyentirelytookpossessionof，leavingtotheWelshtherest，whichisverymountainousandbarren。
　　IhavealreadysaidthatthepeopleofSwanseastandoutinbroaddistinctnessfromtheCumry，differingfromtheminstature，language，dress，andmanners，andwishedtoobservethatthesamethingmaybesaidoftheinhabitantsofeverypartofWaleswhichtheFlemingscolonisedinanyconsiderablenumbers。
　　Ifoundtheaccommodationverygoodatthe"MackworthArms"；I
　　passedtheSaturdayeveningveryagreeably，andsleptwellthroughoutthenight。ThenextmorningtomygreatjoyIfoundmyboots，capitallyrepaired，awaitingmebeforemychamberdoor。Ohthemightyeffectofalittlemoney！AfterbreakfastIputthemon，andasitwasSundaywentoutinordertogotochurch。Thestreetswerethrongedwithpeople；anewmayorhadjustbeenelected，andhisworship，attendedbyanumberofhalbertandjavelinmen，wasgoingtochurchtoo。Ifollowedtheprocession，whichmovedwithgreatdignityandofcourseveryslowly。Thechurchhadahighsquaretower，andlookedaveryfineedificeontheoutside，andnolesssowithin，forthenavewasloftywithnoblepillarsoneachside。Istoodduringthewholeoftheserviceasdidmanyothers，forthecongregationwassogreatthatitwasimpossibletoaccommodateallwithseats。Theritualwasperformedinaverysatisfactorymanner，andwasfollowedbyanexcellentsermon。Iamashamedtosaythathaveforgotthetext，butIrememberagooddealofthediscourse。ThepreachersaidamongstotherthingthattheGospelwasnotpreachedinvain，andthatheverymuchdoubtedwhetherasermonwaseverdeliveredwhichdidnotdosomegood。OntheconclusionoftheserviceIstrolledaboutinordertoseethetownandwhatpertainedtoit。Thetownisofconsiderablesize，withsomeremarkableedifices，spaciousandconvenientquays，andacommodiousharbourintowhichtheriverTawyflowingfromthenorthemptiesitself。ThetownandharbourareoverhungonthesideoftheeastbyaloftygreenmountainwithaWelshname，nodoubtexceedinglyappropriate，butwhichIregrettosayhasescapedmymemory。
　　AfterhavingseenallthatIwished，Ireturnedtomyinnanddischargedallmyobligations。Ithendeparted，framingmycourseeastwardtowardsEngland，havingtraversedWalesnearlyfromnorthtosouth。
　　CHAPTERCII
　　LeaveSwansea—ThePandemonium—NeathAbbey—VariedScenery。
　　ITwasabouttwoo’clockofadullandgloomyafternoonwhenI
　　startedfromAbertawyorSwansea，intendingtostopatNeath，someeightmilesdistant。AsIpassedagainthroughthesuburbsIwasstruckwiththeirlengthandtheevidencesofenterprisewhichtheyexhibited—enterprise，however，evidentlychieflyconnectedwithironandcoal，foralmosteveryobjectlookedawfullygrimy。
　　CrossingabridgeIproceededtotheeastupabroadandspaciousvalley，theeasternsideofwhichwasformedbyrusset—colouredhills，throughavistaofwhichIcoulddescryarangeoftallbluemountains。AsIproceededIsometimespassedpleasantgrovesandhedgerows，sometimeshugeworks；inthisvalleytherewasasingularmixtureofnatureandart，ofthevoicesofbirdsandtheclankingofchains，ofthemistsofheavenandthesmokeoffurnaces。
　　IreachedLlan—，asmallvillagehalf—waybetweenSwanseaandNeath，andwithoutstoppingcontinuedmycourse，walkingveryfast。
　　Ihadsurmountedahill，andhadnearlydescendedthatsideofitwhichlookedtowardstheeast，havingonmyleft，thatistothenorth，awoodedheight，whenanextraordinaryscenepresenteditselftomyeyes。Somewhattothesouthroseimmensestacksofchimneyssurroundedbygrimydiabolical—lookingbuildings，intheneighbourhoodofwhichwerehugeheapsofcindersandblackrubbish。Fromthechimneys，notwithstandingitwasSunday，smokewasproceedinginvolumes，chokingtheatmosphereallaround。Fromthispandemonium，atthedistanceofaboutaquarterofamiletothesouth—west，uponagreenmeadow，stood，lookingdarklygrey，aruinofvastsizewithwindowholes，towers，spires，andarches。
　　Betweenitandtheaccursedpandemonium，layahorridfilthyplace，partofwhichwasswampandpartpool：thepoolblackassoot，andtheswampofadisgustingleadencolour。Acrossthisplaceoffilthstretchedatramwayleadingseeminglyfromtheabominablemansionstotheruin。SostrangeasceneIhadneverbeheldinnature。Haditbeenoncanvas，withtheadditionofanumberofDiabolicalfigures，proceedingalongthetramway，itmighthavestoodforSabbathinHell—devilsproceedingtoafternoonworship，andwouldhaveformedapictureworthyofthepowerfulbutinsanepainter，JeromeBos。
　　AfterstandingforaconsiderabletimestaringatthestrangespectacleIproceeded。Presentlymeetingalad，Iaskedhimwhatwasthenameoftheruin。
　　"TheAbbey，"hereplied。
　　"NeathAbbey？"saidI。
　　"Yes！"