Behindtheboxoutoftheforepartofthecaravanpeeredtwoorthreeblackchildren’sheads。Aprettylittlefoalaboutfourmonthsoldcamefriskingandgambollingnowbeforenowbesidethehorses，whilstacoltofsomesixteenmonthsfollowedmoreleisurelybehind。WhenthecaravanwasabouttenyardsdistantI
　　stopped，andraisingmylefthandwiththelittlefingerpointedaloft，Iexclaimed：
　　"Shoon，Kaulomengro，shoon！InDibbel’snav，wheremaytubejawingto？"
　　Stoppinghiscaravanwithconsiderabledifficultythesmallblackmanglaredatmeforamomentlikeawildcat，andthensaidinavoicepartlysnappish，partlykind：
　　"Savoshantu？AreyouoneoftheIngrines？"
　　"IamthechapwhatcertainfolkscallstheRomanyRye。"
　　"Well，I’llbejiggeredifIwasn’tthinkingsoandifIwasn’tpenningsotomyjuwaaswewerewellingdownthechong。"
　　"Itisalongtimesincewelastmet，CaptainBosvile，forI
　　supposeImaycallyouCaptainnow？"
　　"Yes！theoldmanhasbeendeadandburiedthismanyayear，andhissticksandtitlesarenowmine。Poorsoul，Ihopeheishappy；
　　indeedIknowheis，forheliesinCockleshellchurchyard，theplacehewasalwayssofondof，andhashisSundaywaistcoatonhimwiththefinegoldbuttons，whichhewasalwayssoproudof。Ah，youmaywellcallitalongtimesincewemet—why，itcan’tbelessthanthirtyyear。"
　　"Somethingaboutthat—youwereaboythenofaboutfifteen。"
　　"SoIwas，andyouatallyoungslipofabouttwenty；well，howdidyoucometojinmande？"
　　"Why，Iknewyoubyyourfightingmug—thereain’tsuchanothermuginEngland。"
　　"Nomoretherean’t—myoldfatheralwaysusedtosayitwasofnousehittingitforitalwaysbrokehisknuckles。Well，itwaskindofyoutojinmandeaftersomanyyears。ThelasttimeIthinkI
　　sawyouwasnearBrummagem，whenyouweretravellingaboutwithJasperPetulengroand—Isay，what’sbecomeoftheyoungwomanyouusedtokeepcompanywith？"
　　"Idon’tknow。"
　　"Youdon’t？Well，shewasafineyoungwomanandavartuous。I
　　rememberherknockingdownandgivingablackeyetomyoldmother，whowaswonderfullydeepinRomany，formakingabitofagillieaboutyouandshe。Whatwasthesong？Lord，howmymemoryfailsme！Oh，hereitis：—
　　"’AndoberkhoRyecanoOtehpivotehkhavoTulerasqueandoberkhopiraneeTehcorbatchaporpico。’"
　　"HaveyouseenJasperPetulengrolately？"saidI。
　　"Yes，Ihaveseenhim，butitwasataveryconsiderabledistance。
　　JasperPetulengrodoesn’tcomenearthelikesofwenow。Lord！youcan’tthinkwhatgrandfolksheandhiswifehavebecomeoflateyears，andallalongofatrumperylilwhichsomebodyhaswrittenaboutthem。Why，theyarehandandglovewiththeQueenandPrince，andfolkssaythathiswifeisgoingtobemadedameofhonour，andJasperJusticeofthePeaceandDeputyRangerofWindsorPark。"
　　"Onlythink，"saidI。"Andnowtellme，whatbroughtyouintoWales？"
　　"WhatbroughtmeintoWales？I’lltellyou；myownfool’shead。I
　　wasdoingnicelyintheKauloGavandtheneighbourhood，whenI
　　mustneedspackupandcomeintothesepartswithbagandbaggage，wifeandchilder。IthoughtthatWaleswaswhatitwassomethirtyyearsagonewhenourfokyusedtosay—forIwasneverherebefore—thattherewassomethingtobedoneinit；butIwasnevermoremistakeninmylife。ThecountryisoverrunwithHinditymescrey，woildIrish，withwhomtheRomanyfokystandnochance。Thefellowsunderworkmeattinkering，andthewomenoutscreammywifeattellingfortunes—moreover，theysaythecountryistheirsandnotintendedforniggerslikewe，andastheyaregenerallyinvastnumberswhatcanapoorlittleRomanfamilydobutfleeawaybeforethem？AprettyjourneyIhavemadeintoWales。HadInotcontrivedtopassoffapoggadobavengro—abroken—windedhorse—
　　atafair，Iatthismomentshouldbewithoutatringoruscheepieceinmypocket。IamnowmakingthebestofmywaybacktoBrummagem，andifeverIcomeagaintothisHinditycountrymayCalcraftnashme。"
　　"Iwonderyoudidn’ttrytoservesomeoftheIrishout，"saidI。
　　"Iservedoneout，brother；andmywifeandchilderhelpedtowipeoffalittleofthescore。Wehadstoppedonanicegreen，nearavillageoverthehillsinGlamorganshire，whenupcomesaHindityfamily，andbidsustakeourselvesoff。Nowitsohappenedthattherewasbutonemanandawomanandsomechilder，soIlaughed，andtoldthemtodriveusoff。Well，brother，withoutmanywords，therewasaregularscrimmage。TheHinditymushcameatme，theHinditymushiatymyjuwa，andtheHinditychavesatmychai。Itdidn’tlastlong，brother。InlessthanthreeminutesIhadhittheHinditymush，whowasaplagueybigfellow，butcouldn’tfight，justunderthepointofthechin，andsenthimtothegroundwithallhissensesgone。MyjuwahadalmostscratchedaneyeoutoftheHinditymushi，andmychaihadsenttheHinditychilderscamperingoverthegreen。’Whohasgottoquitnow？’saidItotheHinditymushafterhehadgotonhislegs，lookinglikeamanwhohasbeencutdownafterhangingjustaminuteandahalf。’Whohasgotnoticetoquit，now，Iwonder？’Well，brother，hedidn’tsayanything，nordidanyofthem，butafteralittletimetheyalltookthemselvesoff，withacarttheyhad，tothesouth。Justastheygottotheedgeofthegreen，however，theyturnedroundandgaveayellwhichmadeallourbloodruncold。Iknewwhatitmeant，andsaid，’Thisisnoplaceforus。’Sowegoteverythingtogetherandcameawayand，thoughthehorsesweretired，neverstoppedtillwehadgottenmilesfromtheplace；andwellitwasweactedaswedid，for，hadwestayed，IhavenodoubtthatawholeHindityclanwouldhavebeendownuponusbeforemorningandcutourthroats。"
　　"Well，"saidI，"farewell。Ican’tstayanylonger。Asitis，I
　　shallbelateatGutterVawr。"
　　"Farewell，brother！"saidCaptainBosvile；and，givingacry，hecracked，hiswhipandsethishorsesinmotion。
　　"Won’tyougiveussixpencetodrink？"criedMrsBosvile，witharathershrillvoice。
　　"Holdyourtongue，youshe—dog，"saidCaptainBosvile。"Isthatthewayinwhichyoutakeleaveofanoldfriend？Holdyourtongue，andlettheIngrinegentlemanjawonhisway。"
　　IproceededonmywayasfastasIcould，forthedaywasnowclosingin。Myprogress，however，wasnotverygreat；fortheroadwassteep，andwascontinuallybecomingmoreso。Inabouthalf—an—
　　hourIcametoalittlevillage，consistingofthreeorfourhouses；oneofthem，atthedoorofwhichseveralcartswerestanding，borethesignofatavern。
　　"Whatisthenameofthisplace？"saidItoamanwhowasbreakingstonesontheroad。
　　"CapelGwynfa，"saidhe。
　　Rathersurprisedatthename，whichsignifiesinEnglishtheChapeloftheplaceofbliss，Iaskedthemanwhyitwascalledso。
　　"Idon’tknow，"saidtheman。
　　"Wasthereeverachapelhere？"saidI。
　　"Idon’tknow，sir；thereisnonenow。"
　　"Idaresaytherewasintheoldtime，"saidItomyself，asIwenton，"inwhichsomeholyhermitprayedandtoldhisbeads，andoccasionallyreceivedbenightedstrangers。WhatapoeticalwordthatGwynfa，placeofbliss，is。OwenPughusesitinhistranslationof’ParadiseLost’toexpressParadise，forhehasrenderedthewordsParadiseLostbyColGwynfa—thelossoftheplaceofbliss。Iwonderwhethertheoldscholarpickedupthewordhere。Notunlikely。StrangefellowthatOwenPugh。WishI
　　hadseenhim。Nohopeofseeinghimnow，exceptintheheavenlyGwynfa。Wonderwhetherthereissuchaplace。TomPaynethinksthere’snot。StrangefellowthatTomPayne。Norfolkman。WishI
　　hadneverreadhim。"
　　PresentlyIcametoalittlecottagewithatoll—bar。Seeingawomanstandingatthedoor，Iinquiredofherthenameofthegate。
　　"CowslipGate，sir。"
　　"HasitanyWelshname？"
　　"NonethatIknowof，sir。"
　　Thisplacewasataconsiderablealtitude，andcommandedanextensiveviewtothesouth，west，andnorth。Heightsuponheightsrosebehindittotheeast。Fromheretheroadrantothesouthforalittlewaynearlylevel，thenturnedabruptlytotheeast，andwasmoresteepthanever。Aftertheturn，Ihadahugechalkclifftoweringovermeontheright，andachalkprecipiceonmyleft。Nightwasnowcomingonfast，and，rathertomyuneasiness，massesofmistbegantopourdownthesidesofthemountain。I
　　hurriedon，theroadmakingfrequentturnings。Presentlythemistsweptdownuponme，andwassothickthatIcouldonlyseeafewyardsbeforeme。Iwasnowobligedtoslackenmypace，andtoadvancewithsomedegreeofcaution。Imovedoninthiswayforsometime，whensuddenlyIheardanoise，asifanumberofcartswerecomingrapidlydownthehill。Istopped，andstoodwithmybackcloseagainstthehighbank。Thenoisedrewnearer，andinaminuteIsawdistinctlythroughthemist，horses，carts，andformsofmenpassing。Inoneortwocasesthewheelsappearedtobewithinafewinchesofmyfeet。Iletthetraingoby，andthencriedoutinEnglish，"AmIrightforGutterVawr？"
　　"Hey？"saidavoice，afteramomentaryinterval。
　　"AmIrightforGutterVawr？"Ishoutedyetlouder。
　　"Yessure！"saidavoice，probablythesame。
　　Theninstantlyamuchroughervoicecried，"WhotheDevilareyou？"
　　Imadenoanswer，butwenton，whilstthetraincontinueditswayrumblingdownthemountain。AtlengthIgainedthetop，wheretheroadturnedandleddownasteepdescenttowardsthesouth—west。
　　Itwasnowquitenight，andthemistwasofthethickestkind。I
　　couldjustseethattherewasafrightfulprecipiceonmyleft，soIkepttotheright，huggingthesideofthehill。AsIdescendedIheardeverynowandthenloudnoisesinthevale，probablyproceedingfromstonequarries。Iwasdrenchedtotheskin，nay，throughtheskin，bythemist，whichIverilybelievewasmorepenetratingthanthatdescribedbyAbGwilym。WhenIhadproceededaboutamileIsawblazesdownbelow，resemblingthoseoffurnaces，andsoonaftercametothefootofthehill。Itwasherepouringwithrain，butIdidnotputupmyumbrella，asitwasimpossibleformetobemoredrenchedthanIwas。Crossingabridgeoverakindoftorrent，Ifoundmyselfamongstsomehouses。Ienteredoneofthemfromwhichablazeoflightandaroarofvoicesproceeded，and，oninquiringofanoldwomanwhoconfrontedmeinthepassage，IfoundthatIhadreachedmymuchneededhavenofrest，thetavernofGutterVawrinthecountyofGlamorgan。
　　CHAPTERXCIX
　　InnatGutterVawr—TheHurly—burly—BarayCaws—ChangeofManner—WelshMistrust—WondersofRussia—TheEmperor—TheGrandGhostStory。
　　THEoldwomanwhoconfrontedmeinthepassageoftheinnturnedouttobethelandlady。OnlearningthatIintendedtopassthenightatherhouse，sheconductedmeintoasmallroomontheright—handsideofthepassage，whichprovedtobetheparlour。Itwascoldandcomfortless，fortherewasnofireinthegrate。Shetoldme，however，thatoneshouldbelighted，andgoingout，presentlyreturnedwithacoupleofbuxomwenches，whoIsoonfoundwereherdaughters。ThegoodladyhadlittleornoEnglish；thegirls，however，hadplenty，andofagoodkindtoo。Theysoonlightedafire，andthenthemotherinquiredifIwishedforanysupper。
　　"Certainly，"saidI，"forIhavenoteatenanythingsinceIleftLlandovery。WhatcanIhave？"
　　"Wehavevealandbacon，"saidshe。
　　"Thatwilldo，"saidI；"frymesomevealandbacon，andIshan’tcomplain。ButpraytellwhatprodigiousnoiseisthatwhichIhearontheothersideofthepassage？"
　　"Itisonlytheminersandthecartersinthekitchenmakingmerry，"saidoneofthegirls。
　　"Isthereagoodfirethere？"saidI。
　　"Ohyes，"saidthegirl，"wehavealwaysagoodfireinthekitchen。"
　　"Wellthen，"saidI，"Ishallgotheretillsupperisready，forI
　　amwettotheskin，andthisfirecastsverylittleheat。"
　　"Youwillfindthemaroughsetinthekitchen，"saidthegirl。
　　"Idon’tcareifIdo"saidI；"whenpeopleareroughIamcivil，andIhavealwaysfoundthatcivilitybeatsroughnessinthelongrun。"ThengoingoutIcrossedthepassageandenteredthekitchen。
　　Itwasnearlyfilledwithroughunkemptfellows，smoking，drinking，whistling，singing，shoutingorjabbering，someinastanding，someinasitting，posture。Myentranceseemedatoncetobringeverythingtoadeadstop；thesmokersceasedtosmoke，thehandthatwasconveyingtheglassorthemugtothemouthwasarrestedinair，thehurly—burlyceasedandeveryeyewasturneduponmewithastrangeinquiringstare。WithoutallowingmyselftobedisconcertedIadvancedtothefire，spreadoutmyhandsbeforeitforaminute，gavetwoorthreedeep"ahs"ofcomfort，andthenturningroundsaid："Ratheradampnight，gentlemen—firecheeringtoonewhohascomethewholewayfromLlandovery—TakingabitofawalkinWales，toseethesceneryandtoobservethemannersandcustomsoftheinhabitants—Finecountry，gentlemen，nobleprospects，hillanddale—Finepeopletoo—open—heartedandgenerous；nowonder！descendantsoftheAncientBritons—HopeI
　　don’tintrude—otherroomrathercoldandsmoking—IfIdo，willretireatonce—don’twishtointerruptanygentlemanintheiravocationsordeliberations—scorntodoanythingungenteelorcalculatedtogiveoffence—hopeIknowhowtobehavemyself—
　　oughttodoso—learntgrammarattheHighSchoolatEdinburgh。"
　　"Offence，intrusion！"criedtwentyvoices。"Godblessyourhonour！
　　nointrusionandnooffenceatall；sitdown—sithere—won’tyoudrink？"
　　"Pleasetosithere，sir，"saidanoldgrimy—lookingman，gettingupfromaseatinthechimney—corner—"thisisnoseatformewhilstyouarehere，itbelongstoyou—sitdowninit，"andlayingholdofmehecompelledmetositdowninthechairofdignity，whilsthalf—a—dozenhandspushedmugsofbeertowardsmyface；these，however，IdeclinedtopartakeofontheverysatisfactorygroundthatIhadnottakensupper，andthatitwasabadthingtodrinkbeforeeating，moreespeciallyaftercomingoutofamist。
　　"Haveyouanynewstotellofthewar，sir？"saidalargetoughfellow，whowassmokingapipe。
　　"ThelastnewsthatIheardofthewar，"saidI，"wasthatthesnowwastwofeetdeepatSebastopol。"
　　"Iheardthree，"saidtheman；"however，iftherebebuttwoitmustbebadworkforthepoorsoldiers。IsupposeyouthinkthatweshallbeattheRussiansintheend。"
　　"No，Idon’t，"saidI；"theRussiansareayoungnationandweareanold；theyarecomingonandwearegoingoff；everydoghasitsday。"
　　"That’strue，"saidtheman，"butIamsorrythatyouthinkweshallnotbeattheRussians，fortheRussiansareabadset。"
　　"CanyouspeakWelsh？"saidadarkishmanwithblack，bristlyhairandasmallinquisitiveeye。
　　"Oh，IknowtwowordsinWelsh，"saidI；"baraycaws。"
　　"That’sbreadandcheese，"saidtheman，thenturningtoaneighbourofhishesaidinWelsh："HeknowsnothingofCumraeg，onlytwowords；wemaysayanythingweplease；hecan’tunderstandus。Whatalongnosehehas！"
　　"Mindthathean’tnosingus，"saidhisneighbour。"Ishouldbelothtowagerthathedoesn’tunderstandWelsh；and，afterall，hedidn’tsaythathedidnot，butgotoffbysayingheunderstoodthosetwowords。"
　　"No，hedoesn’tunderstandWelsh，"saidtheother；"noSaisunderstandsWelsh，andthisisaSais。Nowwithregardtothatpieceofjob—workwhichyouandIundertook。"Andforthwithheandtheotherenteredintoadisquisitionaboutthejob—work。
　　Thecompanysoongotintoitsoldtrain，drinkingandsmokingandmakingamostterrifichullabaloo。Nobodytookanyfarthernoticeofme。Isatsnuginthechimney—corner，tryingtodrymywetthings，andastheheatwasverygreat，partiallysucceeded。Inabouthalf—an—houroneofthegirlscametotellmethatmysupperwasready，whereuponIgotupandsaid：
　　"Gentlemen，Ithankyouforyourcivility；Iamnowgoingtosupper；perhapsbeforeIturninforthenightImaylookinuponyouagain。"ThenwithoutwaitingforananswerIleftthekitchenandwentintotheotherroom，whereIfoundalargedishofvealcutletsandfriedbaconawaitingme，andalsoasmokingbowlofpotatoes。OrderingajugofaleIsatdown，andwhatwithhungerandthegoodnessofthefare，foreverythingwasfirst—rate，madeoneofthebestsuppersIevermadeinmylife。
　　SupperoverIcalledforaglassofwhiskey—and—water，overwhichI
　　trifledforabouthalf—an—hourandthenbetookmyselfagaintothekitchen。AlmostassoonasIentered，thecompany—whoseemedtobediscussingsomepoint，andwerenotmakingmuchhurly—burly—
　　becamesilent，andlookedatmeinasuspiciousanduneasymanner。
　　Iadvancedtowardsthefire。Theoldmanwhohadoccupiedtheseatinthechimney—cornerandhadresignedittome，hadagaintakenpossessionofit。AsIdrewneartothefirehelookedupontheground，andseemedbynomeansdisposedtovacatetheplaceofhonour；afterafewmoments，however，hegotupandofferedmetheseatwithslightmotionofhishandandwithoutsayingaword。I
　　didnotdeclineitbutsatdown，andtheoldgentlemantookachairnear。Universalsilencenowprevailed；sullenlookswerecastatme，andIsawclearlyenoughthatIwasnotwelcome。Franknesswasnowmyonlyresource。"What’sthematter，gentlemen？"saidI；"youaresilentanddon’tgreetmekindly；haveIgivenyouanycauseofoffence？"Nooneutteredawordinreplyfornearlyaminute，whentheoldmansaidslowlyanddeliberately："Why，sir，thelongandshortofitisthis：wehavegotitintoourheadsthatyouunderstandeverywordofourdiscourse；now，doyouordoyounot？"
　　"Understandeverywordofyourdiscourse？"saidI；"IwishIdid；I
　　wouldgivefivepoundstounderstandeverywordofyourdiscourse。"
　　"That’sacleverattempttogetoff，sir，"saidtheoldman，"butitwon’texactlydo。TelluswhetheryouknowmoreWelshthanbaraycaws，ortospeakmoreplainly，whetheryouunderstandagooddealofwhatwesay。"
　　"Well，"saidI，"IdounderstandmoreWelshthanbaraycaws—IdounderstandaconsiderablepartofaWelshconversation；moreover，I
　　canreadWelsh，andhavethelifeofTomO’rNantatmyfingers’
　　ends。"
　　"Well，sir，thatisspeakingplain，andIwilltellyouplainlythatwedon’tliketohavestrangersamonguswhounderstandourdiscourse，moreespeciallyiftheybegentlefolks。"
　　"That’sstrange，"saidI；"aWelshmanorforeigner，gentleorsimple，maygointoapublic—houseinEngland，andnobodycaresastrawwhetherheunderstandsthediscourseofthecompanyornot。"
　　"ThatmaybethecustominEngland，"saidtheoldman，"butitisnotsoinWales。"
　　"Whathaveyougottoconceal？"saidI；"Isupposeyouarehonestmen。"
　　"Ihopeweare，sir，"saidtheoldman；"butImusttellyou，onceforall，thatwedon’tlikestrangerstolistentoourdiscourse。"
　　"Come，"saidI，"Iwillnotlistentoyourdiscourse，butyoushalllistentomine。IhaveawonderfuldealtosayifIoncebegin；I
　　havebeeneverywhere。"
　　"Well，sir，"saidtheoldman，"ifyouhaveanythingtotellusaboutwhereyouhavebeenandwhatyouhaveseen，weshallbegladtohearyou。"
　　"HaveyoueverbeeninRussia？"shoutedavoice，thatofthelargeroughfellowwhoaskedmethequestionabouttheRussianwar。
　　"Ohyes，IhavebeeninRussia，"saidI。
　　"Well，whatkindofacountryisit？"
　　"Verydifferentfromthis，"saidI，"whichisalittlecountryupinacorner，fullofhillsandmountains；thatisanimmensecountry，extendingfromtheBalticSeatotheconfinesofChina，almostasflatasapancake，therenotbeingahilltobeseenfornearlytwothousandmiles。"
　　"Averypoorcountryisn’tit，alwayscoveredwithiceandsnow？"
　　"Ohno；itisoneoftherichestcountriesintheworld，producingallkindsofgrain，withnobleriversintersectingit，andinsomepartscoveredwithstatelyforests。Inthewinter，whichisratherlong，thereisagooddealoficeandsnow，itistrue，butinthesummertheweatheriswarmerthanhere。"
　　"AndarethereanytownsandcitiesinRussia，sir，asthereareinBritain？"saidtheoldmanwhohadresignedhisseatinthechimney—cornertome；"Isupposenot，oriftherebe，nothingequaltoHerefordorBristol，inbothofwhichIhavebeen。"
　　"Ohyes，"saidI，"thereareplentyoftownsandcities。ThetwoprincipalonesareMoscowandSaintPetersburg，bothofwhicharecapitals。Moscowisafineoldcity，farupthecountry，andwastheoriginalseatofempire。InitthereisawonderfulbuildingcalledtheKremlin，situatedonahill。Itispartlypalace，partlytemple，andpartlyfortress。InoneofitshallsareI
　　don’tknowhowmanycrowns，takenfromvariouskingswhomtheRussianshaveconquered。ButthemostremarkablethingintheKremlinisahugebellinacellarorcave，closebyoneofthechurches；itistwelvefeethigh，andthesounditgiveswhenstruckwithanironbar，fortherearenoclapperstoRussianbells，issoloudthatthecommonRussianssayitcanbeheardovertheempire。Theothercity，SaintPetersburg，wheretheCourtgenerallyreside，isamodernandveryfinecity；sofineindeed，thatIhavenohesitationinsayingthatneitherBristolnorHerefordisworthytobenamedinthesamedaywithit。Manyofthestreetsaremilesinlength，andstraightasanarrow。TheNefskyProspect，asitiscalled，astreetwhichrunsfromthegrandsquare，wherestandstheEmperor’spalace，tothemonasteryofSaintAlexanderNefsky，isnearlythreemilesinlength，andisfullofnobleshopsandhouses。TheNeva，arivertwiceasbroadandtwiceasdeepastheThames，andwhosewatersareclearascrystal，runsthroughthetown，havingoneachsideofitasuperbquay，fencedwithgranite，whichaffordsoneofthemostdelightfulwalksimaginable。IfIhadmychoiceofallthecitiesoftheworldtolivein，IwouldchooseSaintPetersburg。"
　　"AnddidyoueverseetheEmperor？"saidtheroughfellow，whomI
　　havemorethanoncementioned，"didyoueverseetheEmperorNicholas？"
　　"Ohyes：Ihaveseenhimfrequently。"
　　"Well，whatkindofamanishe？weshouldliketoknow。"
　　"Amanofcolossalstature，withafine，noble，butrathersternandsevereaspect。IthinkInowseehim，withhisgreycloak，cockedhat，andwhitewavingplumes，stridingdowntheNefskyProspect，andtoweringbyawholeheadoverotherpeople。"
　　"Bravo！Didyoueverseehimattheheadofhissoldiers？"
　　"Ohyes！IhaveseentheEmperorreviewfortythousandofhischosentroopsintheChampsdeMars，andafamoussightitwas。
　　Therestoodthegreat，proudmanlookingathiswarriorsastheymanoeuvredbeforehim。Two—thirdsofthemwerecavalry，andeachhorsemanwasmountedonabeautifulbloodchargerofCossackorEnglishbreed，andarrayedinasuperbuniform。Theblaze，glitterandgloryweretoomuchformyeyes，andIwasfrequentlyobligedtoturnthemaway。Thesceneuponthewholeputmeinmindofanimmensefieldoftulipsofvariousdyes，forthecoloursofthedresses，ofthebannersandtheplumes，wereasgorgeousandmanifoldasthehuesofthosequeenlyflowers。"
　　"Bravo！"saidtwentyvoices；"thegentlemanspeakslikeanareithiwr。HaveyoubeeninothercountriesbesidesRussia？"
　　"Ohyes！IhavebeeninTurkey，thepeopleofwhicharenotChristians，butfrequentlyputChristianstoshamebytheirgoodfaithandhonesty。IhavebeeninthelandoftheMaugrabins，orMoors—apeoplewholiveonasavourydishcalledcouscousoo，andhavethegloomiestfacesandthemostferociousheartsunderheaven。IhavebeeninItaly，whosepeople，thoughthemostcleverintheworld，arethemostunhappy，owingtothetyrannyofabeingcalledthePope，who，whenIsawhim，appearedtobeundertheinfluenceofstrongdrink。IhavebeeninPortugal，thepeopleofwhichsupplythewholeworldwithwine，anddrinkonlywaterthemselves。IhavebeeninSpain，averyfinecountry，thepeopleofwhichareneversohappyaswhenpayingotherfolks’reckonings。
　　Ihavebeen—butthewindisblowingwildlywithout，andtherainpeltingagainstthewindows；thisisacapitalnightforaghoststory；shallItellyouaghoststorywhichIlearntinSpain？"
　　"Yes，sir，praydo；weallloveghoststories。DotellustheghoststoryofSpain。"
　　ThereuponItoldthecompanyLopedeVega’sghoststory，whichisdecidedlythebestghoststoryintheworld。
　　Longandloudwastheapplausewhichfollowedtheconclusionofthegrandghoststoryoftheworld，inthemidstofwhichIgotup，badethecompanygood—night，andmademyexit。ShortlyafterwardsIdesiredtobeshowntomysleepingapartment。Itwasaverysmallroomupstairs，inthebackpartofthehouse；andImakenodoubtwasthechamberofthetwopoorgirls，thelandlady’sdaughters，asIsawvariousarticlesoffemaleattirelyingabout。
　　Thespiritofknight—errantrywithinmewasnot，however，sufficientlystrongtopreventmetakingpossessionofthefemaledormitory；so，forthwithdivestingmyselfofeveryportionofmyhabiliments，whichweresteaminglikeaboilingtea—kettle，Igotintobedbetweentheblankets，andinaminutewasfastinthearmsofMorpheus。
　　CHAPTERC
　　Morning—ACheerlessScene—TheCarter—OdetoGlamorgan—
　　StartlingHalloo—One—sidedLiberty—ClericalProfession—DeCourcy—LoveoftheDrop—IndependentSpirit—AnotherPeople。
　　ISLEPTsoundlythroughthenight。Atabouteighto’clockonthefollowingmorningIgotupandlookedoutofthewindowofmyroom，whichfrontedthenorth。Astrangescenepresenteditself：aroaringbrookwasfoamingalongtowardsthewest，justunderthewindow。Immediatelybeyonditwasabank，notofgreenturf，greyrock，orbrownmould，butofcoalrubbish，cokeandcinders；onthetopofthisbankwasafellowperformingsomedirtyofficeorother，withaspadeandbarrow；beyondhim，onthesideofahill，wasatramway，upwhichahorsewasstraining，drawingaloadofsomethingtowardsthenorth—west。Beyondthetramwaywasagroveofyellow—lookingfirs；beyondthegrovearangeofwhitehouseswithblueroofs，occupied，Isuppose，byminersandtheirfamilies；