LONDON，February7，1847
MydearSons：……OnFridaywedinedwithtwobachelors，Mr。
PeabodyandMr。Coates，whoareAmericanbankers。Mr。PeabodyisafriendofMr。CorcoranandwasformerlyapartnerofMr。RiggsinBaltimore。Mr。CoatesisofBoston……TheymusteredupalltheAmericansthatcouldbefound，andwedinedwithtwenty—sixofourcountrymen。
MondayMorningLasteveningwewereathometoseeanyAmericanswhomightchancetocome……Imaketeainthedrawing—room，onalittletablewithawhitecloth，whichwouldnotbeesteemedCOMMEILFAUTwithus。Thereisnoneoftheparadeofeatinginthelargesteveningpartyhere。Iseenothingbuttea，andsometimesfindaninformalrefreshmenttableintheroomwhereweputonourcloaks。
IgotanoteyesterdayfromtheO’ConnorDon，enclosinganordertoadmitmetotheHouseofCommonsonMonday……Youwillbecurioustoknowwhois"TheO’ConnorDon。"HeisDennisO’Connor，Esq。，butisoftheoldestfamilyinIreland，andtherepresentativeofthelastkingsofConnaught。HeiscalledaltogethertheO’ConnorDon，andbeginshisnotetomewiththattitle。YourememberCampbell’spoemof"O’Connor’sChild"？
Sunday，14thFebruary……YesterdaymorningwasmybreakfastatSirRobertInglis’s。
Thehourwashalfpastnine，andashishouseistwomilesoffIhadtobeupwondrousearlyforme。Theweatherhasbeenverycoldforthisclimateforthelastfewdays，thoughweshouldthinkitmoderate。Theyknownothingofextremecoldhere。But，toreturntoorbreakfast，where，notwithstandingthecold，theguestswerepunctuallyassembled：TheMarquisofNorthamptonandhissisters，theBishopofLondonwithhisblackapron，SirStratfordCanning，Mr。Rutherford，LordAdvocateforScotland，theSolicitor—Generalandoneortwoothers。TheconversationwasveryagreeableandI
enjoyedmyfirstspecimenofanEnglishbreakfastexceedingly……
Ourinvitationsjostleeachother，nowParliamenthasbegun，foreverybodyinvitesonWednesday，Saturday，orSunday，whentherearenodebates。WehadthreedinnerinvitationsfornextWednesday，fromMr。Harcourt，MarquisofAnglesey，andMrs。Mansfield。Wegototheformer。TheQueenheldaleveeonFriday，forgentlemenonly。Yourfatherwent，ofcourse。
Sunday，February21stIleftoffonSunday，onwhichdayIgotanotefromLadyMorgan，sayingthatshewishedustocomeandmeetsomeagreeablesatherhouse……ThereImetSirWilliamandLadyMolesworth，SirBenjaminHall，etc。，andhadalongtalkwith"Eothen，"whoisaquiet，unobtrusivepersoninmanner，thoughhisbookisquiteaneffervescence……OnWednesdaywedinedwithMr。Harcourt，andmetthereLordBrougham，whodidthetalkingchiefly，LordandLadyMahon，Mr。Labouchere，etc。Itwasamostagreeableparty，andwewereverygladtomeetLordBrougham，whomwehadnotbeforeseen。
LordBroughamisentertaining，andverymuchlistenedto。Indeed，theEnglishhabitseemstobetosufferafewpeopletodoupagreatpartofthetalking，suchasMacaulay，Brougham，andSydneySmithandMackintoshintheirday……OnSaturdayevening，atteno’clock，wewenttoalittlepartyatLadyStratheden’s。Afterstayingtherethree—quartersofanhourwewenttoLadyPalmerston’s，wherewerealltheGREATLondonworld，theDuchessofSutherlandamongthenumber。Sheismostnoble，andatthesametimelovely……WehadanautographnotefromSirRobertPeel，invitingustodinenextSaturday，andwereengaged。Ihopetheywillaskusagain，forIknowfewthingsbetterthantoseehim，asweshouldindiningthere。IhavethesameinterestinseeingthereallydistinguishedmenofEngland，thatIshouldhaveinthepicturesandstatuesofRome，andindeed，muchgreater。IwishI
wasbetterpreparedformylifeherebyamoreextensiveculture；
merefineladyismwillnotdo，orprosybluism，butoneneedsforathoroughenjoymentofsociety，ahealthy，practical，andextensiveculture，andauseofthemodernlanguagesinourpositionwouldbeconvenient。Idonotknowhowagentlemancangetonwithoutithere，andIfinditsodesirablethatIdevoteagooddealoftimetospeakingFrenchwithLouisa’sgoverness。YourfatherusesFrenchagreatdealwithhiscolleagues，who，manyofthem，speakEnglishwithgreatdifficulty，andsomenotatall……LadyCharlotteLindsaycameonedaythisweektoengageustodinewithheronWednesday，butyesterdayshecametosaythatshewantedLordBroughamtomeetus，andhecouldnotcometillFriday。Fortunatelywehadnodinnerengagementonthatday，andwearetomeetalsotheMissBerrys；HoraceWalpole’sMissBerrys，whowithLadyCharlotteherself，arethelastremnantsoftheoldschoolhere。
LETTER：ToI。P。D。
February21stMydearUncle：……Iwrote[J。D。]aweekortwobeforeIheardofhisdeath，butwasunabletotellhimanythingofLordNorth，asI
hadnotmetLadyCharlotteLindsay。IhaveseenhertwicethisweekatBaronParke’sandatLordCampbell’s，andtoldherhowmuchIhadwishedtodosobefore，andonwhataccount。Shesaysherfatherheardreadingwithgreatpleasure，andthatoneofhersisterscouldreadtheclassics：Latinand，Ithink，Greek，whichheenjoyedtothelast。Shesaysthathenevercomplainedoflosinghissight，butthathermotherhastoldherthatitworriedhiminhisoldagethatheremainedMinisterduringourtroublesataperiodwhenhewished，himself，toresign。Hesometimestalkedofitinthesolitudeofsleeplessnights，hermotherhastoldher。
OnTuesdaymorningwewereinvitedbyDr。Buckland，theDeanofWestminster，togotohishouse，andfromthencetotheAbbey，towitnessthefuneraloftheDukeofNorthumberland。TheDean，whohascontrolofeverythingintheAbbey，issuedticketstoseveralhundredpersonstogoandwitnessthefuneral，butonlyLordNorthampton’sfamily，theBunsens（thePrussianMinister），andourselves，wenttohishouse，andintotheDean’slittlegallery。
AftertheceremonytherewereacrowdofvisitorsattheDean’s，andImetmanyoldacquaintances，andmademanynewones，amongwhomwereLadyChantrey，aniceperson。Afterthecrowdclearedoff，wesatdowntoalongtableatlunch，alwaysanimportantmealhere，andafterwardtheDeantookmeonhisarmandshowedmeeverythingwithintheAbbeyprecincts。HetookusfirsttothePercyChapeltoseethevaultofthePercys……FromthencetheDeantookustotheJerusalemchamberwhereHenryIVdied，thenallovertheWestminsterschool。Wefirstwenttothehallwheretheyoungmenwereeatingtheirdinner……Wethenwenttotheschool—room，whereeveryinchofthewallandbenchesiscoveredwithnames，someofthemmostillustrious，asDryden’s。Thereweretwobunchesofrods，whichtheDeanassuredmewerenotmeresymbolsofpower，butweredailyused，as，indeed，thebrokentwigsscattereduponthefloorplainlyshowed。Ourferulesarethoughtratherbarbarous，butagentletouchfromaslendertwignotatallso。Theseyoungmenlookedtomeasoldasourcollegians。Wethenwenttotheirstudy—
rooms，play—rooms，andsleeping—rooms。Thewholefortysleepinonelongandwell—ventilatedroom，thewallsofwhichwerealsocoveredwithnames。Atthefootofeachbedwasalargechestcoveredwithleather，asmoulderingandtime—wornastheAbbeyitself。Hereareeducatedthesonsofsomeofthenoblestfamilies，andtheArchbishopofYorkhashadsixsonshere，andallofthemwereinsuccessiontheCaptainoftheschool……
OnWednesdayeveningwewentfirsttoourfriends，theBunsens，wherewewereinvitedtomeettheDuchessofSutherlandwithafewotherpersons。Bunsenisverypopularhere。Heislearnedandaccomplished，andwassomuchpraisedintheBiographyofDr。
Arnold，thelatehistorianofRome，thathehasgreatreputationintheworldofletters……AlthoughwehavegreatpleasureinthesocietyofChevalierandMadamBunsen，andinthosewhomwemeetattheirhouse。Onthisoccasionweonlystayedhalfanhour，whichI
passedintalkingwiththeBishopofNorwichandhiswife，Mrs。
Stanley，andwenttoLadyMorgan’swithoutwaitingtilltheDuchessofSutherlandcame。Therewefoundherlittleroomsfullofagreeablepeople……Thenextday，Thursday，therewasagrandoperaforthebenefitoftheIrish，andalltheDiplomaticCorpswereobligedtotakeboxes。LadyPalmerston，whowasoneofthethreepatronesses，securedaverygoodboxforus，directlyoppositetheQueen，andonlythreefromthestage。
WetookwithusMrs。MilmanandW。T。Davis，towhomitgaveagrandopportunityofseeingtheQueenandtheassembledaristocracy，atleastallwhoarenowinLondon。"GodsavetheQueen，"sungwiththewholeaudiencestanding，wasanoblesight。TheQueenalsostood，andattheendgavethreecurtsies。OnFridayCaptainandMrs。Wormeley，withMissWormeley，dinedwithus，withMr。andMrs。
Carlyle，MissMurray，theMaidofHonor，Mr。andMrs。PellofNewYork，withWilliamT。andMr。Brodhead。WilliamwasverygladtoseeCarlyle，whoshowedhimselfofftoperfection，utteringhisparadoxesinbroadScotch。
LasteveningwedinedatMr。ThomasBaring’s，andamostagreeabledinneritwas。Thecompanyconsistedoftwelvepersons，LordandLadyAshburton，etc。IlikeLadyAshburtonextremely。Sheisfullofintelligence，readseverything，talksmostagreeably，andstilllovesAmerica。Sheisbynomeansoneofthosewhoabjuretheircountry。IhaveseenfewpersonsinEnglandwhomIshouldesteemamoredelightfulfriendorcompanionthanLadyAshburton，andIdonotknowwhy，butIhadreceivedadifferentimpressionofher。
LordAshburton，bywhomIsatatdinner，struckmeasstilloneofthewisestmenIhaveseeninEngland。LadyAshburton，whowassittingbyMr。Bancroft，leantforwardandsaidtoherhusband，"WE
canbringbushelsofcornthisyeartoEngland。""WhodoyoumeanbyWE？"saidhe。"Why，weAmericans，tobesure。"
MondayEveningYesterdaywedinedatCountSt。Aulair’s，theFrenchAmbassador，whoisacharmingoldmanoftheoldFrenchschool，atasortofamicabledinnergiventoLordandLadyPalmerston。LordJohnRussellwasoftheparty，withtheRussianAmbassadorandlady，Mr。
andMadamVandeWeyer，thePrussianandTurkishMinisters。ThehouseoftheFrenchEmbassyisfine，buttheseformalgranddinnersarenotsocharmingasthesmallones。ThepresentstateoffeelingbetweenLordPalmerstonandtheFrenchGovernmentgaveitakindofinterest，however，anditcertainlywentoffinamuchbetterspiritthanLadyNormanby’sfamousparty，whichGuizotwouldnotattend。
ItseemsveryoddtometobeinthemidstoftheseEuropeanaffairs，whichIhaveallmylifelookeduponfromsogreatadistance。
LETTER：ToMrs。W。W。StoryLONDON，March23，1847
MydearMrs。Story：Ishouldhavethankedyoubythelaststeamerforyournoteandthecharmingvolumewhichaccompaniedit，butmythoughtsandfeelingsweresomuchoccupiedbythesadtidingsI
heardfrommyownfamilythatIwrotetonooneoutofit。Thepoems，whichwouldatalltimeshavegivenmegreatpleasure，gavemestillmoreherethantheywouldifIwerewithyouontheothersideoftheAtlantic。IamnotcosmopolitanenoughtoloveanynaturesowellasourAmericannature，andinadditiontothecharmofitspoetry，everypiecebroughtuptomethescenesamidstwhichithadbeenwritten……Howdeartheseassociationsareyourhusbandwillsoonknowwhenhetooisseparatedfromhisnativeshoresandfromthoseheloves……Ishalllookforwardwithgreatpleasuretoseeinghimhere，andonlywishyouweretoaccompanyhim，foryourownsake，forhis，andforours。HisvariousculturewillenablehimtoenjoymostfullyallthatEuropecanyieldhimineverydepartment。MyownregreteversinceIhavebeenherehasbeenthattheseedhasnot"fallenuponbetterground，"forthoughIthoughtmyselfnotignorantwholly，I
certainlylosemuchthatImightenjoymorekeenlyifIwerebetterpreparedforit。IenvythepleasurewhichMr。Storywillreceivefrommusic，painting，andsculptureinEurope，evenifheweredestituteofthecreativeinspirationwhichhewilltakewithhim。
Forourselves，wehaveeverythingtomakeushappyhere，andI
shouldbequiteso，ifIcouldforgetthatIhadacountryandchildrenwithverydearfriends3，000milesaway……Therearecertainsympathiesofcountrywhichonecannotovercome。OntheotherhandIcertainlyenjoypleasuresofthehighestkind，andameverydayfloatedlikeoneinadreamintothemidstofpersonsandscenesthatmakemylifeseemmorelikeadramathanareality。
Nothingismoreunrealthantheactualpresenceofpersonsofwhomonehasheardmuch，andlongwishedtosee。OnedayIfindmyselfatdinnerbythesideofSirRobertPeel，anotherbyLordJohnRussell，oratLordLansdowne’stable，withMrs。Norton，oratacharmingbreakfastwithMr。Rogers，surroundedbypicturesandmarbles，orwithtallfeathersandalongtrain，makingcurtsiestoaqueen。
LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。
LONDON，April2[1847]
HereitisthedaybeforethedespatchesleaveandIhavenotwrittenasinglelinetoyou……OnFridaywedinedatLadyCharlotteLindsay’s，wherewereLordBroughamandLadyMallet，Mr。
RogersandtheBishopofNorwichandhiswife。IntheeveningMissAgnesBerry，whonevergoesoutnow，cameonpurposetoappointaneveningtogoandseehersister，whoistheonethatHoraceWalpolewishedtomarry，andtowhomsomanyofhislaterlettersareaddressed。Sheiseighty—four，hersisterafewyearsyounger，andLadyCharlottenotmuchtheirjunior。
TheseremnantsoftheBELLES—ESPRITSofthelastagearecharmingtome。Theyhaveavastandlongexperienceofthebestsocialcircles，withnativewit，andconstantpracticeintheconversationofsociety……OnWednesday，wedinedatSirRobertPeel’s，withwhomIwasmorecharmedthanwithanybodyIhaveseenyet。IsatbetweenhimandtheSpeakeroftheHouseofCommons。Iwastoldthathewasstiffandstatelyinhismanners，butdidnotthinkhimso，andaminclinedtoimaginethatfreefromtheburdenofthePremiership，heunbendsmore。Hetalkedconstantlywithme，andinspeakingofacertainpicturesaid，"WhenyoucometoDraytonManorIshallshowittoyou。"Ishouldliketogothere，buttoseehimselfevenmorethanhispictures。LadyPeelisstillaveryhandsomewoman。
ThenextmorningwebreakfastedwithMr。Rogers。Helives，asyouprobablyknow，in[a]beautifulhouse，thoughsmall，whoseroomslookupontheGreenPark，andfilledwithpicturesandmarbles。Westayedanhourormoreaftertheotherguests，listeningtohisstoresofliteraryanecdoteandpleasanttalk。IntheeveningwewenttotheMissBerrys’，wherewefoundLordMorpeth，whoismuchattachedtothem。MissBerryputherhandonhishead，whichisgettingalittlegray，andsaid："Ah，George，andIrememberthedayyouwereborn，yourgrandmotherbroughtyouandputyouinmyarms。"NowthisgrandmotherofLordMorpeth’swasthecelebratedDuchessofDevonshire，whoelectioneeredforFox，andheledhertotellmeallabouther。"Eothen"wasalsothere，LadyLewisandmanyofmyfriends……Auntywishestoknowwhois"Eothen。"Shehasprobablyreadhisbook，"Eothen，orTracesofTravel，"whichwasverypopulartwoorthreeyearssince。Heisayounglawyer，Mr。
Kinglake，themostmodest，unassumingpersoninhismanners，veryshyandaltogetherveryunlikethedashing，spiritedyoungEnglishmanIfiguredtomyself，whomnothingcoulddauntfromtheArabeventotheplague，whichhedefied。
LETTER：ToI。P。D。
DearUncleandAunt：OnThursday[the25th]wewereinvitedtoSirJohnPakington’s，whosewifeistheBishopofRochester’sdaughter，butwereengagedtoMr。Senior，whohadaskedustomeettheArchbishopofDublin，thecelebratedDr。Whately。HehadcomeoverfromIrelandtomakeaspeechintheHouseofLordsupontheIrishPoorLaw。Heisfulloflearning[and]simplicity，andwithmostgenialheartymanners。RogerswasalsothereandsaidmorefinethingsthanIhaveheardhimsaybeforeatdinner，asheisnowsodeafthathedoesnotheargeneralconversation，andcannottellwheretosendhisshaft，whichisalwayspointed。Heretainsallhissarcasmandepigrammaticpoint，butheshinesnowespeciallyatbreakfast，wherehehashisaudiencetohimself。
WewentfromMr。Senior’stoMr。Milman’s，butnearlyallthegueststhereweredepartedordeparting，thoughoneortworeturnedwithustothedrawing—roomtostaythefewminuteswedid。AmongthelingererswefoundSirWilliamandLadyDuffGordon，thetwoWarburtons，"Hochelaga"and"CrescentandCross，"and"Eothen。"
Mrs。MilmanIreallylove，andweseemuchofthem。
OnSaturdaywasthedreadedDrawing—Room，onwhichoccasionIwastobepresentedtotheQueen……Mr。BancroftandIlefthomeataquarterpastone。Onourarrivalwepassedthroughoneortwocorridors，linedbyattendantswithbattle—axesandpicturesquecostumes，lookingverymuchlikethesupernumerariesonthestage，andwereusheredintotheante—room，alargeandsplendidroom，whereonlytheMinistersandPrivyCouncillors，withtheirfamilies，areallowedtogowiththeDiplomaticCorps。HerewefoundLadyPalmerston，whoshowedmealistshehadgotSirEdwardCust，themasterofceremonies，tomakeoutoftheorderofprecedenceoftheDiplomaticCorps，andwhentheturnwouldcomeforuswhoweretobenewlypresented。Theroomsoonfilledupanditwaslikeapleasantparty，onlymoreamusing，asthecostumesofbothgentlemenandladiesweresosplendid。IgotaseatinthewindowwithMadamVandeWeyerandsawtheQueen’straindriveup。Attheendofthisroomaretwodoors：atthelefthandeverybodyentersthenextapartmentwheretheQueenandhersuitestand，andaftergoingroundthecircle，comeoutattheright—handdoor。AfterthosewhoareprivilegedtogoFIRSTintotheANTE—ROOMleaveit，thegeneralcirclepassin，andtheyalsogoinandoutthesamedoors。Buttogoback。Theleft—handdooropensandSirEdwardCustleadsintheCountessDietrichstein，whoistheeldestAmbassadress，astheCountessSt。AulairisinParis。Assheentersshedropshertrainandthegentlemenushersopenitoutlikeapeacock’stail。ThenMadamVandeWeyer，whocomesnext，followscloseuponthetrainoftheformer，thenBaronessBrunnow，theMadamBunsen，thenMadamLisboa，thenLadyPalmerston，who，asthewifeoftheMinisterforForeignAffairs，istointroducethePrincessCallimachi，BaronessdeBeust，andmyself。ShestationsherselfbythesideoftheQueenandnamesusaswepass。TheQueenspoketononeofus，butgavemeaverygracioussmile，andwhenMr。Bancroftcameby，shesaid："I
amverygladtohavehadthepleasureofseeingMrs。Bancroftto—
day。"Iwasnot[at]allfrightenedandgatheredupmytrainwithasmuchself—possessionasifIwerealone。Ifounditveryentertainingafterwardtowatchthereceptionoftheothers。TheDiplomaticCorpsremainthroughthewhole，theladiesstandingontheleftoftheQueenandthegentlemeninthecentre，butallotherspassoutimmediately……OnSundayeveningMr。BancroftsetoffforParistopasstheEasterrecessofParliament……I
gotaveryinterestingletteryesterdayfromMr。Bancroft。ItseemsthattheCountessCircourt，whosehusbandhasreviewedhisbookandPrescott’s，isamostcharmingperson，andmakesherhouseoneofthemostbrilliantandattractiveinParis。Sinceheleft，anotecamefromMr。Hallam，thecontentsofwhichpleasedmeastheywillyou。ItannouncedthatMr。BancroftwaschosenanHonoraryMemberoftheSocietyofAntiquaries，ofwhichLordMahonispresident，Hallam，vice—president。HallamsaysthesocietyisveryoldandthatheisthefirstcitizenoftheUnitedStatesuponwhomithasbeenconferred，butthathewillnotlongpossessitexclusively，ashis"highlydistinguishedcountryman，Mr。Prescott，hasalsobeenproposed。"
LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。
TuesdayMydearSons：……OnMondaymorningcamethedearMissBerrys，tobegmetocomethateveningtojointheircircle。TheyhavealwaysthebestpeopleinLondonaboutthem，youngaswellasold。
Theoldandthemiddle—agedaremoreattendedtoherethanwithus，wheretheyoungareallinall。AsHaywardsaidtometheotherevening，"ittakestimetomakePEOPLE，likecathedrals，"andMr。
RogersandMissBerrycouldnothavebeenwhattheyarenow，fortyyearsago。Alonglifeofexperienceinthemidstconstantlyofthehighestandmostcultivatedcircles，andwithseveralgenerationsofdistinguishedmengiveswhatcanbeacquiredinnootherway。Mr。
Rogerssaidtomeoneday："IhavelearntmorefrommenthatfromBOOKS，andwhenIusedtobeinthesocietyofFoxandothergreatmenofthatperiod，andtheywouldsometimessay’Ihavealwaysthoughtsoandso，’thenIhaveopenedmyearsandlistened，forI
saidtomyself，nowIshallgetatthetreasuredresultsoftheexperienceofthesegreatmen。"ThislittlesayingofMr。Rogersexpressespreciselymyownfeelingsinthesocietyofthevenerableanddistinguishedhere。WithussocietyisleftmoretothecruditiesoftheyoungthaninEngland。Theyoungmaybeinterestingandpromisemuch，buttheyarestillCRUDE。Theelements，howeverfine，arenotyetcompletelyassimilatedandbroughttothatmoreperfecttonewhichcomeslaterinlife。
Monday，April12th……OnSaturdayIwentwithSirWilliamandLadyMolesworthtotheirboxinthenewCoventGardenopera，whichhasbeenopenedforthefirsttimethisweek。ThereIsawGrisiandAlboniandTamburiniinthe"Semiramide。"Itwasanewworldofdelighttome。
Grisi，sostatuesqueandsograceful，delightstheeye，theear，andthesoul。Sheissculpture，poetry，andmusicatthesametime……Mr。BancrofthasbeenreceivedwithgreatcordialityinParis。HehasbeenthreetimesinvitedtothePalace，andGuizotandMignetgivehimaccesstoallthathewantsinthearchives，andhepasseshiseveningswithalltheeminentmenandbeautifulwomenofParis。
Guizot，Thiers，Lamartine，Cousin，Salvandi，Thierry，hesees，andenjoysall。Theytakehimtothesalons，too，oftheFaubourgSt。
Germain，amongtheoldFrencharistocracy，andtoinnumerablereceptions。
WednesdayTo—morrowIgototheDrawing—Roomalone，andtocompletetheclimax，theQueenhassentusaninvitationtodineatthePalaceto—morrow，andImustgoALONEfortheFIRSTTIME。IfIlivethroughit，Iwilltellyouallaboutit；butisitnotawkwardintheextreme？
FridayMorningAteighto’clockintheeveningIdrovetothePalace。Mydresswasmycurrant—coloredorgrosseillevelvetwithawreathofwhiteArumlilieswovenintoakindofturban，withgreenleaveandbouquettomatch，ontheberthaofBrusselslace。Iwasreceivedbyaservant，whoescortedmethroughalongnarrowcorridorthelengthofWinthropPlaceandconsignedmetoanotherwhoescortedmeinhisturn，throughanotherwidercorridortothefootofaflightofstairswhichIascendedandfoundanotherservant，whotookmycloakandshowedmeintothegrandcorridororpicturegallery；anobleapartmentofinterminablelength；andsurroundedbypicturesofthebestmasters。GeneralBowles，theMasteroftheHousehold，cameforwardtomeetme，andLordByron，whoisoneoftheLordsinWaiting。IfoundMadamLisboaalreadyarrived，andsooncameinLordandLadyPalmerston，theDukeofNorfolk，theMarquisandMarchionessofExeter，LordandLadyDalhousie，LordCharlesWellesley，sonoftheDukeofWellington，LadyByron，andMr。
Hallam。Wesatandtalkedasatanyotherplace，whenatlasttheQueenwasannounced。Thegentlemenrangedthemselvesononeside，andweontheother，andtheQueenandPrincepassedthrough，shebowing，andweprofoundlycurtseying。AssoonasshepassedtheMarquisofExetercameoverandtookMadamLisboa，andLordDalhousiecameandtookme。TheQueenandPrincesatinthemiddleofalongtable，andIwasjustoppositethePrince，betweenLordExeterandLordDalhousie，whoisthesonoftheformerGovernorofNovaScotia，wasinthelastministry，andamostagreeableperson。
Italkedtomyneighborsasatanyotherdinner，buttheQueenspoketonoonebutPrinceAlbert，withawordortwototheDukeofNorfolk，whowasonherright，andisthefirstpeeroftherealm。
Thedinnerwasratherquicklydespatched，andwhentheQueenrosewefollowedherbackintothecorridor。Shewalkedtothefireandstoodsomeminutes，andthenadvancedtomeandenquiredaboutMr。
Bancroft，hisvisittoParis，ifhehadbeentherebefore，etc。I
expressed，ofcourse，theregrethewouldfeelatlosingthehonorofdiningwithHerMajesty，etc。ShethenhadatalkwithLadyPalmerston，whostoodbymyside，thenwithalltheotherladiesinsuccession，untilatlastPrinceAlbertcameout，soonfollowedbytheothergentlemen。ThePrincethenspoketoalltheladies，asshehaddone，whileshewentinsuccessiontoallthegentlemenguests。Thistooksometimeandwewereobligedtostandallthewhile。
AtlasttheQueen，accompaniedbyherLadyinWaiting，LadyMountEdgcumbe，wenttoasofaattheotherendofthecorridorinfrontofwhichwasaroundtablesurroundedbyarm—chairs。WhentheQueenwasseatedLadyMountEdgcumbecametousandrequestedustotakeourseatsroundthetable。Thiswasalittleprim，forIdidnotknowexactlyhowmuchImighttalktoothersintheimmediatepresenceoftheQueen，andeverybodyseemedalittleconstrained。
Shespoketousall，andverysoonsuchofthegentlemenaswereallowedbytheirrank，joinedusattheroundtable。LordDalhousiecameagaintomysideandIhadaspleasantaconversationwithhim，ratherSOTTOVOCE，however，asIcouldhavehadataprivatehouse。
Athalf—pasttentheQueenroseandshookhandswitheachlady；wecurtsiedprofoundly，andsheandthePrincedeparted。Wethenbadeeachothergood—night，andfoundourcarriagesassoonaswechose。
LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。
LONDON，May16，1847
MydearSons：Mylettersbythissteamerwillhaveverylittleinterestforyou，as，frombeingincompleteretirement，Ihavenonewthingstorelatedtoyou……Wehavetakenadvantageofourleisuretodrivealittleintothecountry，andonTuesdayIhadapleasureofthehighestorderindrivingdowntoEsherandpassingaquietdaywithLadyByron，thewidowofthepoet。SheisanintimatefriendofMissMurray，whohaslongwishedustoseeheranddesiredhertonamethedayforourvisit。
EsherisalittlevillageaboutsixteenmilesfromLondon，andLadyByronhasselecteditasherresidence，thoughherestatesareinLeicestershire，becauseitisnearLordandLadyLovelace，heronlychild，the"ADA"ofpoetry。Wewentinourowncarriage，takingMissMurraywithus，andasthecountryisnowradiantwithblossomsandglowinggreen，thedriveitselfwasveryagreeable。Wearrivedattwoo’clock，andfoundonlyLadyByron，withthesecondboyofLadyLovelaceandhistutor。LadyByronisnowaboutfifty—five，andwiththeremainsofanattractive，ifnotbrilliantbeauty。Shehasextremelydelicatefeatures，andverypaleandfinelydelicateskin。Atoneofvoiceandmannerofthemosttremblingrefinement，withacultureandstrongintellect，almostmasculine，butwhichbetraysitselfundersuchsweetandgentleandunobtrusiveformsthatoneisonlyledtoperceiveitbyslowdegrees。Sheisthemostmodestandunostentatiouspersononecanwellconceive。Shelivessimply，andthechiefofherlargeincome（youknowshewastherichMissMilbank）shedevotestoothers。AfterlunchshewishedmetoseealittleofthecountryroundEsherandorderedherponiesandsmallcarriageforherselfandme，whileMr。BancroftandMissMurraywalked。Wewentfirsttotheroyalseat，Claremont，wherethePrincessCharlottelivedsohappilywithLeopold，andwhereshedied。ItsparkadjoinsLadyByron’s，andtheQueenallowsheraprivatekeythatshemayenjoyitsexquisitegrounds。Hereweleftthepedestrians，whileLadyByrontookmeamoreextensivedrive，asshewishedtoshowmesomeoftheheathsintheneighborhood，whicharecoveredwithfurze，nowonemassofyellowbloom。
Everyobjectisseeninfullreliefagainstthesky，andafigureonhorsebackispeculiarlystriking。IamalwaysremindedofthebeginningofoneofJames’snovels，whichisusually，youknow，afterthismanner："Itwastowardthecloseofadullautumndaythattwohorsemenwereseen，"etc。，etc。LadyByrontookmetotheestateofaneighboringgentleman，toshowmeafineoldtowercoveredwithivy，whereWolseytookrefugefromhispersecutors，withhisfaithfulfollower，Cromwell。
Uponourreturnwefoundthelastoftheoldharpers，blind，andwithagenuineoldIrishharp，andafterhearinghisnationalmelodiesforhalfanhour，takingacupofcoffee，andenjoyingalittlemoreofLadyByron’sconversation，wedeparted，havinghadadayheapedupwiththerichestandbestenjoyments。Icouldnothelpthinking，asIwaswalkingupanddownthebeautifulpathsofClaremontPark，withthefreshspringairblowingaboutme，theprimroses，daisies，andwildbluebellsundermyfeet，andLadyByronatmyside，thatitwasmorelikeapageoutofapoemthanareality。
OnSundaynightanyAmericanswhoareherecometoseeus……Mr。
Hardingbroughtwithhimagentleman，whomheintroducedasMr。
Alison。Mr。BancroftaskedhimifhewererelatedtoArchdeaconAlison，whowrotethe"EssayonTaste。""Iamhisson，"saidhe。
"Ah，then，youarethebrotherofthehistorian？"saidMr。Bancroft。
"Iamthehistorian，"wasthereply……Aneveningvisitorisathingunheardof，andthereforemylifeisverylonely，nowIdonotgointosociety。IseenooneexceptSundayevenings，and，occasionally，afriendbeforedinner。
LETTER：ToW。D。B。andA。B。
LONDON，May24，[1847]
MydearSons：……OnFridaywebothwenttoseethePalaceofHamptonCourtwithmydear，good，MissMurray，Mr。Winthropandson，andLouise……Onourarrival，wefound，toourgreatvexation，thatFridaywastheonlydayintheweekinwhichvisitorswerenotadmitted，andthatwemustcontentourselveswithseeingthegroundsandgobackwithoutaglimpseofitsnoblegalleriesofpictures。
Fortunatelyforus，MissMurrayhadseveralfriendsamongthepersonstowhomtheQueenhasassignedapartmentsinthevastedifice，andtheywillinglyyieldedtheirapprobationofouradmissionifshecouldpossiblywinoverMrs。Grundy，thehousekeeper。Thisnamesoundedratherinauspicious，butMr。
Winthropsuggestedthattheremightbea"Felix"toqualifyit，andsointhiscaseitturnedout。Mrs。Grundyassertedthatsuchathinghadneverbeendone，thatitwasaverydangerousprecedent，etc。，butintheendtheweightofaMaidofHonorandaForeignMinisterprevailed，andwesaweverythingtomuchgreateradvantagethanifwehad150personsfollowingon，asMr。WinthropsayshehadtheotherdayatWindsorCastle……Onourway[home]wemetLadyByronwithherprettylittlecarriageandponies。Shealightedandwedidthesame，andhadquiteapleasantlittleinterviewinthedustyroad。
Sunday，May30thYourfatherlefttownonMonday……Hedidnotreturnuntilthe27th，themorningoftheQueen’sBirthdayDrawing—Room。OnthatoccasionIwentdressedinwhitemourning……Itwasapetticoatofwhitecrapeflouncedtothewaistwiththeedgesnotched。A
trainofwhiteglacetrimmedwitharucheofwhitecrape。Awreathandbouquetofwhitelilacs，withoutanygreen，asgreenisnotusedinmourning。Thearrayofdiamondsonthisoccasionwasmagnificentinthehighestdegree，andeverybodywasintheirmostsplendidarray。ThenexteveningtherewasaconcertatthePalace，atwhichJennyLind，Grisi，Alboni，Mario，andTamburinisang。Iwentdressedin[a]deepblackdressandenjoyedthemusichighly。Seatswereplacedinrowsintheconcert—roomandonesatquietlyasifinchurch。Attheendofthefirstpart，theroyalfamilywiththeirroyalguests，theGrandDukeConstantineofRussia，andtheGrandDukeandDuchessofSaxe—Weimarwenttothegranddining—roomandsuppedbythemselves，withtheirsuites，whileanotherelegantrefreshmenttablewasspreadinanotherapartmentfortheotherguests……JennyLindalittledisappointedme，Imustconfess，buttheytellmethathersongswerenotadaptedonthateveningtothedisplayofhervoice。
OnSundayeveningyourfatherdinedwithBaronBrunnow，theRussianMinister，tomeettheGrandDukeConstantine。ItsohappenedthattheGrandDukeandDuchessofSaxe—WeimarappointedanaudiencetoBaronandBaronessBrunnowatseven，andtheyhadnotreturnedathalf—pastseven，whentheGrandDukeandtheirotherguestsarrived。
TheBaronessimmediatelyadvancedtotheGrandDukeandsunkonherkneesbeforehim，askingpardoninRussian。Hebeggedhertorise，butsheremainedintheattitudeofdeephumiliation，untiltheGrandDukesunkalsoonHISkneesandgentlyraisedher，andthenkissedheronthecheek，aprivilege，youknow，ofroyalty……OnMondayeveningwebothwenttoaconcertatMr。Hudson’s，thegreatrailway"king，"whohasjustmadeanimmensefortunefromrailwaystocks，andisnowdesiroustogetintosociety。Thesethingsaremanagedinacuriouswayhere。ANOUVEAURICHEgetsseveralladiesoffashiontopatronizetheirentertainmentandinvitealltheguests。OurinvitationwasfromLadyParke，whowrotemetwonotesaboutit，sayingthatshewouldbehappytomeetmeatMrs。Hudson’ssplendidmansion，wherewouldbethebestmusicandsocietyofLondon；and，trueenough，therewastheDukeofWellingtonandalltheworld。LadyParkestoodattheentranceofthesplendidsuiteofroomstoreceivetheguestsandintroducethemtotheirhostandhostess。OnTuesdaymorningIgotanotefromMr。
EliotWarburton（brotherof"Hochelaga"）tocometohisroomattwoo’clockandlookatsomedrawings。Tooursurprisewefoundquiteapartyseatedatlunch，andacollectionofmanyagreeablepersonsandsomelionsandlionesses。TherewasLordRoss，thegreatastronomer；BaronessRothschild，alovelyJewess；MissStrickland，theauthoressofthe"QueensofEngland"；"Eothen，"andmanymore。
Mr。Polk，CHARGEatNaples，andbrotherofthePresident，dinedwithus，andMissMurray，andintheeveningcameMr。andMrs。McLean，heasonofJudgeMcLean，ofOhio。
June17thOnFridayeveningwewenttotheQueen’sBall，andforthefirsttimesawHerMajestydance，whichshedoesverywell，andsodoestheDuchessofSutherland，grandmotherthoughshebe。
OnMondayeveningwewenttoaconcertgiventotheQueenbytheDukeofWellingtonatApsleyHouse。Thiswasanoccasionnottobeforgotten，butIcannotdescribeit。OnTuesdayIwentforthefirsttimetohearadebateuponthePortugalinterferenceintheHouseofLords。Itbroughtoutalltheleaders，andIwassofortunateastohearamostpowerfulspeechfromLordStanley，onefromLordLansdowneindefenceoftheMinistryandonefromtheDukeofWellington，who，onthisoccasion，sidedwiththeMinisters。OnWednesdaywasthegreatFETEgivenbytheDuchessofSutherlandtotheQueen。Itwaslikeachapterofafairytale。PersonsfromallthecourtsofEuropewhoweretheretoldusthatnowhereinEuropewasthereanythingasfineasthehallandgrandstaircasewheretheDuchessreceivedherguests。Itexceededmyutmostconceptionsofmagnificenceandbeauty。Thevastsizeoftheapartment，thevaultedceilings，thearabesqueornaments，thefinepictures，theprofusionofflowers，themusic，theflourishoftrumpets，astheQueenpassedbackwardandforward，thesuperbdressesanddiamondsofthewomen，theparti—coloredfulldressofthegentlemenallcontributedtomakeupascenenottobeforgotten。TheQueen’sBallwasnottobecomparedtoit，somuchmoreeffectiveisStaffordHousethanBuckinghamPalace……Wewerefortunatetobepresentthere，forStaffordHouseisnotopenedinthiswaybutonceinayearortwo，andtheDuke’shealthisnowsoveryuncertain，thatitmaybemanyyearsbeforeithappensagain。Hewasnotpresenttheotherevening。
LETTER：ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。
MydearUncleandAunt：
LONDON，June20，1847
Onthe19th，Saturday，webreakfastedwithLadyByronandmyfriend，MissMurray，atMr。Rogers’。HeandLadyByronhadnotmetformany，manyyears，andtheirrenewalofoldfriendshipwasveryinterestingtowitness。Mr。RogerstoldmethathefirstintroducedhertoLordByron。Afterbreakfasthehadbeenrepeatingsomelinesofpoetrywhichhethoughtfine，whenhesuddenlyexclaimed："ButthereisabitofAmericanPROSE，which，Ithink，hadmorepoetryinitthanalmostanymodernverse。"Hethenrepeated，Ishouldthink，morethanapagefromDana’s"TwoYearsBeforetheMast，"describingthefallingoverboardofoneofthecrew，andtheeffectitproduced，notonlyatthemoment，butforsometimeafterward。I
wonderedathismemory，whichenabledhimtorecitesobeautifullyalongprosepassage，somuchmoredifficultthanverse。Severalofthosepresentwithwhomthebookwasafavorite，weresogladtohearfrommethatitwasasTRUEasinteresting，fortheyhadregardeditaspartlyaworkofimagination。LadyByronhadtoldMr。RogerswhenshecameinthatLadyLovelace，herdaughter（Ada）
wishedalsotopayhimavisit，andwouldcomeafterbreakfasttojoinusforhalfanhour。ShealsohadnotseenRogers，IBELIEVE，ever。LadyLovelacejoinedussoonafterbreakfast，andaswewerespeakingoftheenchantmentofStaffordHouseonWednesdayevening，Mr。Rogersproposedtogooveritandseeitsfinepicturesbydaylight。Heimmediatelywenthimselfbyashortbackpassagethroughtheparktoaskpermissionandreturnedwithalltheeagernessandgallantryofayoungmantosaythathehadobtainedit。Wehadthusanopportunityofseeing，inthemostleisurelywayandinthemostdelightfulsociety，thefinepicturesandnobleapartmentsofStaffordHouseagain……OnTuesdayMr。HallamtookustotheBritishMuseum，andbeingadirector，hecouldenteronaprivateday，whenwewerenotannoyedbyacrowd，and，moreover，wehadtheadvantageofthebestinterpretersandguides。Wedidnotevenenterthelibrary，whichrequiresadaybyitself，butconfinedourselvestotheAntiquityrooms……AsIenteredtheroomdevotedtotheElginmarbles，theworksofthe"divinePhidias，"Isteppedwithawe，asifenteringatemple，andtheSecretary，whowasbymyside，observingit，toldmethattheGrandDukeConstantine，whenhecameafewdaysbefore，made，asheentered，amostprofoundandreverentialbow。Thiswasoneofmymostdelightfulmornings，andIlefttheAntiquitieswithastrongerdesiretoseethemagainthanbeforeIhadseenthematall。
Sunday，June27th……IwentonWednesdaytodineatLordMonteagle’stomeetFatherMathew，andtheArchbishopofDublin（Dr。Whately）alsodinedthere。
FatherMathewspokewithgreatinterestofAmericaandofAmericanliberality，andisveryanxioustogotoourcountry。HesawMr。
ForbesatCorkandspokeofhimwithgreatregard……On[Saturday]Mr。BancroftwenttothepalacetoseetheKingoftheBelgians，withtherestoftheDiplomaticCorps。AfterhisreturnwewenttoWestminsterHalltoseetheprizepictures，asLordLansdownehadsentusticketsfortheprivateview。TheCommissionofFineArtshaveofferedprizesforthebesthistoricalpicturesthatmayservetoadornthenewHousesofParliament，andthepicturesofthiscollectionwereallpaintedwiththatview。OneofthosewhichhavereceivedaprizeisJohnRobinsonbestowinghisfarewellblessinguponthePilgrimsatLeyden，whichisverypleasing。Itwastomelikeafriendinastrangecountry，andI
lingeredoveritthelongest。
July2dWednesday[evening]wewenttoLadyDuffGordon’s，whoisthedaughterofMrs。Austin，wherewasamostagreeableparty，andamongothers，Andersen，theDanishpoet—authorofthe"Improvisatore。"Hehasamoststrikingpoeticalphysiognomy，butashetalkedonlyGermanorbadFrench，IlefthimtoMr。Bancroftintheconversationway。
Thenextmorningbeforenineo’clockweweretoldthatMr。Rogers，thepoet，wasdownstairs。Icouldnotimaginewhathadbroughthimoutsoearly，butfoundthatMoore，thepoet，hadcometotownandwouldstaybutaday，andwemustgothatverymorningandbreakfastwithhimatteno’clock。Wewentandfoundadelightfulcircle。I
satbetweenMooreandRogers，whowasinhisverybesthumor。Mooreisbutawreck，butmostainterestingone。
LETTER：ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。
NunehamPark，July27，1847
MydearUncleandAunt：……Imustgobacktothedaywhenmylastlettersweredespatched，asmylifesincehasbeenfullofinterest。OnMondayevening，the19th，wewenttotheFrenchplay，toseeRachelin"Phedre。"Shefarsurpassedmyimaginationintheexpressionofallthepowerfulpassions……OnTuesdayMr。
BancroftwentdowntohearLordJohnmakeaspeechtohisconstituentsinthecity，whileIwenttoseeMissBurdett—Couttslaythecorner—stoneofthechurchwhich"theBishopofLondonhaspermittedhertobuild，"touseherownexpressioninhernotetome。Intheeveningwedinedtherewithmanyoftheclergy，andLordBrougham，LordDundonald，etc。IwentdownwiththeDeanofWestminster，whowasveryagreeableandinstructive。HeandDr。
Whatelyhavethesimplicityofchildren，withanimmensedealofknowledge，whichtheyimpartinthemostpleasantway。Saturday，the24th，weweretoleavetownforourfirstcountryexcursion。WewereinvitedbyDr。Hawtrey，theHeadMasterofEton，tobepresentattheceremoniesaccompanyingtheannualelectionofsuchboysontheFoundationasareselectedtogouptoKing’sCollege，Cambridge，wheretheyarealsoplacedonaFoundation。FromreadingDr。Arnold’slifeyouwillhavelearnedthattheheadmasterofoneoftheseverygreatschoolsisnounimportantpersonage。Dr。
Hawtreyhasanincomeofsixorseventhousandpounds。Heisunmarried，buthastwosinglesisterswholivewithhim，andhisestablishmentinoneoftheoldcollegehousesisfullofeleganceandcomfort。Wetookanopentravellingcarriagewithimperials，anddrovedowntoEtonwithourownhorses，arrivingaboutoneo’clock。Attwo，precisely，theProvostofKing’sCollege，Cambridge，wastoarrive，andtobereceivedundertheoldgatewayofthecloisterbytheCaptainoftheschoolwithaLatinspeech。
Afterdinnerthereisaregattaamongtheboys，whichisoneofthecharacteristicandpleasingoldcustoms。AllthefashionablesofLondonwhohavesonsatEtoncomedowntowitnesstheirhappiness，andtheriverbankisfullofgayety。TheeveningfinishedwiththemostbeautifulfireworksIeversaw，whichlighteduptheCastlebehindandwerereflectedintheThamesbelow，whiletheglancingoarsoftheyoungboatmen，andthemusicoftheirbandwithamerrychimeofbellsfromSt。George’sChapel，above，allcombinedtogivegayetyandinteresttothescene。Thenextmorning（Sunday），afteranagreeablebreakfastinthelong，low—walledbreakfast—room，whichopensupontheflowergarden，wewenttoWindsortoworshipinSt。
George’sChapel。TheQueen’sstallisratherlargerthantheothers，andoneisleftvacantforthePrinceofWales。
LONDON，July29thAndnowwithanewsheetImustbeginmyaccountofNuneham……
TheArchbishopofYorkisthesecondsonofLordVernon，buthisuncle，EarlHarcourt，dyingwithoutchildren，lefthimallhisestate，uponwhichhetookthenameofHarcourt。Wearrivedaboutfouro’clock……Thedinnerwasathalf—pastseven，andwhenI
wentdownIfoundtheDuchessofSutherland，LadyCarolineLeveson—
Gower，LordKildare，andseveralofthesonsanddaughtersoftheArchbishop。Thedinnerandeveningpassedoffveryagreeably。TheDuchessisamosthigh—bredperson，andthoroughlycourteous。Asweweregoinginoroutofaroominsteadofprecedingme，whichwasherright，shealwaysmademetakeherarm，whichwasadelicatewayofgettingoverherprecedence……Athalf—pastninethe[nextmorning]wemetinthedrawing—room，whentheArchbishopledthewaydowntoprayers。Thiswasabeautifulscene，forheisnowninety，andtohearhimreadtheprayerswithafirm，clearvoice，whilehisfamilyanddependentskneltabouthimwasapleasurenevertobeforgotten……AtfiveIwastodriveroundtheparkwiththeArchbishophimselfinhisopencarriage。Thisdrivewasmostcharming。Heexplainedeverything，toldmewhensuchtreeswouldbefelled，andwhencertaintractsofunderwoodwouldbefitforcutting，howoldthedifferent—sizeddeerwere——inshort，thewholeeconomyofanEnglishpark。Everyprettypointofview，too，hemademesee，andwasasactiveandwide—awakeasifhewerethirty，ratherthanninety……Thenextmorning，afterprayersandbreakfast，Itookmyleave。
LETTER：ToA。H。
BISHOP’SPALACE，NORWICH，August1stMydearAnn：HowIwishIcouldtransportyoutothespotwhereI
amwriting，butifIcouldsummonitbeforeyouractualvisionyouwouldtakeitforadreamoraromance，sodifferentiseverythingwithinthewallswhichenclosetheprecinctsofanEnglishCathedralfromanythingwecanconceiveonoursideofthewater……SomeofthelearnedpeopleandnoblemenhaveformedanArchaeologicalSocietyforthestudyandpreservation[of]theinterestingarchitecturalantiquitiesofthekingdom，and[it]isupontheoccasionoftheannualmeetingofthissocietyforaweekatNorwichthattheBishophasinvitedustostayafewdaysatthepalaceandjointhemintheiragreeableantiquarianexcursions。WearrivedonFridayatfiveo’clockafteralongdulljourneyoffivehoursontherailway……Stayinginthehouseareourfriends，Mr。andMrs。Milman，LordNorthamptonandhisson，LordAlwyneCompton，andtheBishop’sfamily，consistingofMrs。Stanley，andoftwoMissStanleys，agreeableandhighlycultivatedgirls，andMr。ArthurStanley，thewriterofDr。Arnold’sBiography。
Afterdinnercompanysoonarrived。AmongthemwereMrs。Opie，whoresideshere。Sheisapleasing，livelyoldlady，infullQuakerdress。Themostcuriousfeatureoftheeveningwasavisitwhichthecompanypaidtothecellarandkitchen，whichwerelightedupfortheoccasion。TheywerebuildbytheoldNormanbishopsofthetwelfthcentury，andhadvaultedstoneroofsasbeautifullycarvedandribbedasachurch。
Thenextday，Saturday，theantiquariansmadealongexcursiontohuntupsomeruins，whiletheMilmans，Mr。Stanley，andourselves，wenttovisittheplaceofLadySuffield，abouttwelvemilesdistant，andwhichisthemostperfectspecimenoftheElizabethanstyle。LadySuffieldherselfisasElizabethanasherestablishment；sheisofone[of]theoldesthighToryfamiliesandsoopposedtoinnovationsofallsortsthatthoughherletters，whichusedtoarriveattwo，beforetheopeningoftherailwaytwoyearsago，nowarriveatseveninthemorning，theyareneverallowedtobebroughttilltheoldhour……ThismorningMr。
BancroftandtherestaregoneonanexcursiontoYarmouthtoseesomeruins，whileIremainheretowitnessthechairingoftwonewmembersofParliament，whohavejustbeenelected，ofwhomLordDouro，sonoftheDukeofWellington，isone。
LETTER：ToI。P。D。
AUDLEYEND，October14，1847
DearUncle：WearestayingforafewdaysatLordBraybrooke’splace，oneofthemostmagnificentinEngland；butbeforeIsayawordaboutitImusttellyouofA。’ssafearrivalandhowhappyI
havebeenmadebyhavinghimwithmeagain……OnSaturdaythe9thwehadthehonorofdiningwiththeLORDMAYORtomeettheDukeofCambridge，aFETEsounlikeanythingelseandaccompaniedbysomanyoldandpeculiarcustomsthatImustdescribeittoyouatfulllength。TheMansionHouseisintheheartoftheCITY，andisverymagnificentandspacious，theEgyptianHall，asthedining—roomiscalled，beingoneofthenoblestapartmentsIhaveseen。Theguestswereabout250innumberandwerereceivedbytheLadyMayoressSITTING。Whendinnerwasannounced，theLordMayorwentoutfirst，precededbythesword—bearerandmace—bearerandalltheinsigniaofoffice。ThencametheDukeofCambridgeandtheLadyMayoress，thenMr。BancroftandItogether，whichisthecustomatthesegreatcivicfeasts。WemarchedthroughthelonggallerybythemusicofthebandtotheEgyptianHall，wheretworaisedseatslikethroneswereprovidedfortheLordMayorandMayoressattheheadofthehall。OntherighthandoftheLordMayorsattheDukeofCambridgeinaCOMMONCHAIR，forroyaltyyieldsentirelytotheMayor，onhisownground。OntherightoftheDukeofCambridgesattheMayoress—
elect（forthepresentdignitariesgooutofofficeonthe1stofNovember）。OnthelefthandofthepresentLadyMayoresssattheLordMayor—ELECT，thenIcamewithmyhusbandonmylefthandinveryconjugalstyle。
Therewerethreetablesthewholelengthofthehall，andthatatwhichwewereplacedwentacrossatthehead。Whenweareplaced，theheraldstandsbehindtheLordMayorandcries："MyLords，Ladies，andGentlemen，praysilence，forgrace。"Thenthechaplaininhisgown，goesbehindtheLordMayorandsaysgrace。Afterthesecondcoursetwolargegoldcups，nearlytwofeethigh，areplacedbeforetheMayorandMayoress。Theheraldthencrieswithaloudvoice："HisRoyalHighnesstheDukeofCambridge，theAmericanMinister，theLordChiefBaron，"etc。，etc。（enumeratingaboutadozenofthemostdistinguishedguests），"andladiesandgentlemenall，theLordMayorandLadyMayoressdobidyoumostheartilywelcomeandinviteyoutodrinkinalovingcup。"WhereupontheMayorandMayoressriseandeachturntotheirnextneighbor，whotakeoffthecoverwhiletheydrink。Aftermyright—handneighbor，theLordMayor—elect，hadputonthecover，heturnstomeandsays，"Pleasetakeoffthecover，"whichIdoandholditwhilehedrinks；
thenIreplacethecoverandturnroundtoMr。Bancroft，whorisesandperformsthesameofficeformewhileIdrink；thenheturnstohisnextneighbor，whotakesoffthecoverforhim。IhavenotfeltsosolemnsinceIstooduptobemarriedaswhenMr。BancroftandI
werestandingupalonetogether，therestofthecompanylookingon，Iwiththisgreatheavygoldcupinmyhand，soheavythatIcouldscarcelyliftittomymouthwithbothhands，andhewiththecoverbeforeme，withratheramischievousexpressioninhisface。Thencametwoimmensegoldplattersfilledwithrosewater，whichwerealsopassedround。Thesegoldvesselswereonlyusedbythepersonsattheheadtable；theotherguestswereservedwithsilvercups。
Whenthedessertandthewineareplacedonthetable，theheraldsays，"MyLords，Ladies，andGentlemen，pleasetochargeyourglasses。"Afterwedulychargeourglassestheheraldcries：
"Lords，Ladies，andGentlemen，praysilencefortheLordMayor。"Hethenrisesandproposesthefirsttoast，whichis，ofcourse，always"TheQueen。"Afteratimecamethe"AmericanMinister，"whowasobligedtoriseupatmyelbowandrespond。Wegothomejustaftertwelve。
AndnowletmetrytogiveyousomefaintideaofAudleyEnd，whichisbyfarthemostmagnificenthouseIhaveseenyet。ItwasbuiltbytheEarlofSuffolk，sonoftheDukeofNorfolkwhowasbeheadedinElizabeth’sreignforhightreason，uponthesiteofanabbey，thelandsofwhichhadbeengrantedbythecrowntothatpowerfulfamily。OneoftheEarlsofSuffolkdyingwithoutsons，theEARLDOM
passedintoanotherbranchandtheBARONYandESTATEofHowarddeWaldencameintothefemaleline。Incourseoftime，aLordHowarddeWaldendyingwithoutason，histitlealsopassedintoanotherfamily，buthisestatewenttohisnephew，LordBraybrooke，thefatherofthepresentLord。LadyBraybrookeisthedaughteroftheMarquisofCornwallis，andgranddaughterofourAmericanLordCornwallis。
ThehouseisoftheElizabethanperiodandisoneofthebestpreservedspecimensofthatstyle，butofitsvastextentandmagnificenceIcangiveyounoidea。Wearrivedaboutfiveo’clock，andwereusheredthroughanimmensehallofcarvedoakhungwithbannersupafinestaircasetothegrandsaloon，wherewewerereceivedbythehostandhostess。NowofthisgrandsaloonImusttrytogiveyouaconception。Itwas，Ishouldthink，fromseventy—
fivetoonehundredfeetinlength。Theceilingoverheadwasveryrichwithhangingcorbels，likestalactites，andtheentirewallswerepanelled，withafull—lengthfamilyportraitineachpanel，whichwasarchedatthetop，sothatthewholewallwascomposedoftheseround—toppedpictureswithrichgildingbetween。
Notwithstandingitsvastsize，thesofasandtablesweresodisposedallovertheapartmentastogiveitthemostfriendly，warm，andsocialaspect。
LadyBraybrookeherselfusheredmetomyapartments，whichwerethestaterooms。FirstcameMr。Bancroft’sdressing—room，wherewasablazingfire。Thencamethebedroom，withthestatebedofblueandgold，coveredwithembroidery，andwiththearmsandcoronetofHowarddeWalden。Thewallswerehungwithcrimsonandwhitedamask，andthesofasandchairsalso，anditwassurroundedbypictures，amongothersafulllengthofQueenCharlotte，justoppositethefootofthebed，alwayssalutedmeeverymorningwhenI
awoke，withherfan，herhoop，andherdeepruffles。
Mydressing—room，whichwasontheoppositesidefromMr。
Bancroft’s，wasaperfectgem。ItwaspaintedbythefamousRebeccowhocameoverfromItalytoornamentsomanyofthegreatEnglishhousesatonetime。Thewholeceilingandwallswerecoveredwithbeautifuldesignsandwithgilding，andabeautifulrecessforacouchwassupportedbyflutedgildedcolumns；thearchitravesandmouldingsofthedoorsweregilt，andthepanelsofthedoorswerefilledwithRebecco’sbeautifuldesigns。Thechairswereoflightblueembroideredwiththick，heavygold，andallthisbearingthestampofantiquitywasathousandtimesmoreinterestingthanmeremodernsplendor。Inthecentreoftheroomwasatoiletofwhitemuslin（universalhere），andonitagiltdressing—glass，whichgaveprettyeffecttothewhole。
IsatatdinnerbetweenLordBraybrookeandSirJohnBoileau，andfoundthembothveryagreeable。Thedining—roomisasmagnificentastheotherapartments。TheceilingisintheElizabethanstyle，coveredwithfigures，andthewallswhiteandgoldpanellinghungwithfull—lengthfamilyportraitsnotsetintothewalllikethesaloon，butinframes。Intheeveningtheyoungpeoplehadaroundgameatcardsandtheelderonesseemedtoprefertalkingtoagameatwhist。Theladiesbroughtdowntheirembroideryornetting。Atelevenatraywithwineandwaterisbroughtinandaquantityofbedcandlesticks，andeverybodyretireswhentheylike。Thenextmorningtheguestsassembledathalf—pastnineinthegreatgallerywhichleadstothechapeltogointogethertoprayers。Thechapelisreallyabeautifullittlepieceofarchitecture，withavaultedroofandwindowsofpaintedglass。OnonesideistheoriginalcastofthelargemonumenttoLordCornwallis（ourlord）whichisinWestminsterAbbey。Afterbreakfastwepassedacoupleofhoursingoingalloverthehouse，whichisinperfectkeepingineverypart。
Wereturnedtothelibrary，aroomassplendidasthesaloon，onlyinsteadofpicturedpanelsitwassurroundedbybooksinbeautifulgiltbindings。IntheimmensebaywindowwasalargeLouisQuatorzetable，roundwhichtheladiesallplacedthemselvesattheirembroidery，thoughIpreferredlookingovercuriousilluminatedmissals，etc。，etc。
ThenextdaywasthemeetingoftheCountyAgriculturalSociety……Atthehourappointedweallrepairedtothegroundwheretheprizesweretobegivenout……LordBraybrookemadefirstamostpaternalandinterestingaddress，whichshowedmeinthemostfavorableviewtherelationbetweenthenobleandthelowerclassinEngland，arelationwhichmustdependmuchonthepersonalcharacterofthelordofthemanor……Firstcameprizestoploughmen，thentheploughboys，thentheshepherds，thentosuchpeasantsashadrearedmanychildrenwithoutaid，thentowomenwhohadbeenmanyyearsinthesamefarmer’sservice，etc。，etc。Aclockwasawardedtoapoormanandhiswifewhohadrearedsixchildrenandburiedsevenwithoutaidfromtheparish。TherapturewithwhichMr。andMrs。Flittonandthewholesixchildrengazedonthisclock，animmensetreasureforapeasant’scottage，wasbothcomicandaffecting……Thenextmorningwemadeouradieustoourkindhostandhostess，andsetoffforLondon，accompaniedbySirJohnTyrrell，MajorBeresford，andyoungMr。Boileau。
LETTER：ToW。D。B。
LONDON，November4，1847
DearW。：……Mr。BancroftandIdinedonFriday，the22d，withMr。andMrs。Hawes，under—SecretaryofState，tomeetMr。Brooke，theRajahofSarawak，whoisagreatlioninLondonjustnow。HeisanEnglishgentlemanoflargefortunewhohasdonemuchtoChristianizeBorneo，andtoopenitstradetotheEnglish。IsatbetweenhimandMr。Ward，formerlyMinistertoMexicobeforeMr。
Pakenham。HewroteaverynicebookonMexico，andisanagreeableandintelligentperson……OnWednesdayA。andIwenttogethertotheNationalGallery，andjustasweweresettingoutMr。ButlerofNewYorkcameinandIinvitedhimtojoinus……WhilewewereseatedbeforeacharmingClaudewhoshouldcomeinbutMr。R。W。
Emersonandwehadquiteajoyfulgreeting。JustthencameinMr。
Rogerswithtwoladies，oneoneacharm。HerenewedhisrequestthatIwouldbringmysontobreakfastwithhim，andappointedFridaymorning，andthenaddedifthosegentlemenwhoarewithyouareyourfriendsandcountrymen，perhapstheywillaccompanyyou。
Theyverygladlyacceded，andIwasthankfulMr。Emersonhadchancedtobewithmeatthatmomentasitprocuredhimahighpleasure。
YesterdayyourfatherandIdinedwithSirGeorgeGrey……Aboutfouro’clockcameonsuchafogasIhavenotseeninLondon，andthenewspapersofthismorningspeakofitasgreaterthanhasbeenknownformanyyears。SirGeorgeGreylivesinEatonPlace，whichisparallelandjustbehindEatonSquare。Ingoingthatlittledistance，thoughthereisabrilliantgaslightateverydoor，thecoachmanwascompletelybewildered，andlosthimselfentirely。Wecouldonlywalkthehorses，thefootmanexploringahead。Whentheguestsbydegreesarrived，therewasthesamerejoicingasifwehadmetonMontSt。BernardafteracontestwithanAlpinesnow—storm……LadyGreytoldmeshewasdiningwiththeQueenonceinoneofthesetremendousfogs，andthatmanyoftheguestsdidnotarrivetilldinnerwashalfthrough，whichwashorribleataroyaldinner；
buttheelementscarelittleforroyalty。
November14thOnSaturdaywedinedattheDucdeBroglie’s。HemarriedthedaughterofMadamdeStael，butsheisnotnowliving。IwasveryagreeablyplacedwithMr。Macaulayononesideofme，sothatI
founditmorepleasantthandiplomaticdinnersusually。AttheEnglishtableswemeetpeoplewhoknoweachotherwell，andhaveacommoncultureandtastesandhabitsoffamiliarity，andafundofpleasantstories，butofcourse，atforeigntables，theyneitherknoweachotherortheEnglishsowellastogivethesameeasyflowtoconversation。Iamafraidwearethegreatestdiners—outinLondon，butwearebroughtintocontactagreatdealwiththeliteraryandParliamentarypeople，whichourcolleaguesknowlittleabout，asalsowiththeclergyandthejudges。Ishouldnotbewillingtomakeitthehabitofmylife，butitistimenotmisspentduringtheyearsofourabodehere……ThegoodoldArchbishopofYorkisdead，andIamgladIpaidmyvisittohimwhenIdid。Mr。
Rogershaspaidmealongvisitto—dayandgavemealltheparticularsofhisdeath。ItwasasubjectIshouldnothaveintroduced，forofthatknotofintimatefriends，Mr。Grenville，theArchbishop，andhimself，heisnowallthatremains。
November28th……OnMondayeveningIwentwithoutMr。BancrofttoalittlepartyatMrs。Lyell’s，whereIwasintroducedtoMrs。Somerville。
Shehasresidedforthelastnineyearsabroad，chieflyatVenice，buthasnowcometoLondonandtakenahouseverynearus……Herdaughtertoldmethatnothingcouldexceedtheeaseandsimplicitywithwhichherliteraryoccupationswerecarriedon。SheisjustpublishingabookuponNaturalGeographywithoutregardtopoliticalboundaries。Shewritesprincipallybeforesherisesinthemorningonalittlepieceofboard，withherinkstandonatablebyherside。Aftersheleavesherroomsheisasmuchatleisureasotherpeople，butifanideastrikeshershetakesherlittleboardintoacornerorwindowandwritesquietlyforashorttimeandreturnstojointhecircle。
Dr。Somervilletoldmethathiswifedidnotdiscoverhergeniusformathematicstillshewasaboutsixteen。Herbrother，whohasnotalentforit，wasreceivingamathematicallessonfromamasterwhileshewashemmingandstitchingintheroom。InthiswayshefirstheardtheproblemsofEuclidstatedandwasravished。Whenthelessonwasover，shecarriedoffthebooktoherroomanddevouredit。Foralongtimeshepursuedherstudiessecretly，asshehadscaledheightsofsciencewhichwerenotconsideredfemininebythoseabouther。
December2dIputdownmypenyesterdaywhenthecarriagecametothedoorformydrive。Itwasadaybright，beaming，andexhilaratingasoneofourownwinterdays。IwassobusyenjoyingtheunusualbeamsoftheuncloudedsunthatIdidnotperceiveforsometimethatIhadleftmymuff，andwasobligedtodrivehomeagaintogetit。WhileIwaswaitinginthecarriageforthefootmantogetit，twoofthemostagreeableold—ladyfacesintheworldpresentedthemselvesatthewindow。TheyweretheMissBerrys。Theyhaddrivenupbehindmeandgotouttohavealittletalkonthesidewalk。ItookthemintoMr。Bancroft’sroomandwasthankfulthatmymuffhadsentmebacktoreceiveavisitwhichattheirageisrarelypaid……I
foundthemfullofdelightatMr。Brooke，theRajahofSarawak，withwhosenoblenessofsoultheywouldhavegreatsympathy。HeisjustnowthelionofLondon，andlikeallotherlionsisrunafterbymostpeoplebecauseheisone，andbythefewbecausehedeservestobeone。Now，lestyoushouldknownothingabouthim，letmetellyouthatathisownexpensehefittedoutavessel，andestablishedhimselfatBorneo，wherehesoonacquiredsogreat[an]ascendancyoverthenativeRajah，thatheinsistedonresigningtohimthegovernmentofhisprovinceofSarawak。Here，withonlythreeEuropeancompanions，bymoralandintellectualforcealone，hesucceededinsuppressingpiracyandcivilwaramongthenativesandopenedatradewiththeinteriorofBorneowhichpromisesgreatadvantagestoEngland……EverybodyherehastheINFLUENZA——aright—downinfluenza，thatsendspeopletotheirbeds。Thosewhohavetriumphedattheirexemptionintheevening，wakeupperhapsinthemorningfullofachesineverylimb，andscoffnolonger……
Dinnerpartiesaresometimesquitebrokenupbytheexcusesthatcomepouringinatthelastmoment。LadyJohnRussellhadsevenlastweekatasmalldinneroftwelve；1，200policemenatonetimeweretakenoffduty，sothatthethievesmighthavehadtheirownway，buttheywereprobablyasbadlyoffthemselves。
LETTER：ToMr。andMrs。I。P。D。
LONDON，December16，1847
MydearUncleandAunt：……OnSaturdayMr。HallamwroteusthatSirRobertPeelhadpromisedtobreakfastwithhimonMondaymorningandhethoughtweshouldliketomeethiminthatquietway。Sowepresentedourselvesatteno’clock，andwerejoinedbySirRobert，LordMahon，Macaulay，andMilman，whowithHallamhimself，formedacirclethatcouldnotbeexceededinthewideworld。Iwastheonlylady，exceptMissHallam；butIamespeciallyfavoredinthebreakfastline。IwouldcrosstheAtlanticonlyforthepleasureI
hadthatmorninginhearingsuchmentalkfortwoorthreehoursinanentirelyeasyunceremoniousbreakfastway。SirRobertwasfullofstories，andshowedhimselfasmuchthescholarasthestatesman。
Macaulaywasoverflowingasusual，andLordMahonandMilmanarefulloflearningandaccomplishments。Theclassicalscholarshipofthesemenisveryperfectandsometimesonecatchesaglimpseofawfullydeepabyssesoflearning。ButthenitisONLYaglimpse，fortheirlearninghasnocumbrousanddullpedantryaboutit。Theyareallmenofsocietyandmenoftheworld，whokeepupwithiteverywhere。Thereismanyapleasantstoryandmanyagoodjoke，andeverythingdiscussedbutpolitics，which，asSirRobertandMacaulaybelongtooppositedynasties，mightbedangerousground。
AfterdinnerwewentalittlebeforetentoLadyCharlotteLindsay’s。ShecamelastweektosaythatshewastohavealittledinneronMondayandwishedustocomeinafterwards。Thisisuniversalhere，andistheeasiestandmostagreeableformofsociety。ShehadLordBroughamandColonelandMrs。Dawson—Damer，etc。，todine……Mrs。Damerwishedustocomethenexteveningtoherinthesameway，justtogetourcupoftea。ThesenicelittleteasarewhatyouneedinBoston。Thereisnosupper，noexpense，nothingbutsociety。Mrs。DameristhegranddaughterofthebeautifulLadyWaldegrave，thenieceofHoraceWalpole，whomarriedtheDukeofGloucester。ShewasleftanorphanatayearoldandwasconfidedbyhermothertothecareofMrs。Fitzherbert。
ShelivedwithheruntilhermarriageandwasagreatpetofGeorgeIV，andtellsagreatmanyinterestingstoriesofhimandMrs。
Fitzherbert，whowasfiveyearsolderthanhe。