Inashorttimewehadabovegroundsweetmelons,watermelons,pumpkins,cabbages,tomatoes,cauliflowers,beet-root,parsley,lettuce,celery,&c。,butallthepeas,beans,andaverychoiceselectionofmaizethatIhadreceivedfromEngland,weredestroyedduringthevoyage。Againstmyexpressorders,theboxhadbeenhermeticallysealed,andthevitalityofthelargerseedswasentirelygone。Seedsshouldbesimplypackedinbrownpaperbagsandsecuredinabasket。
Theneighbouringcountrywas,asusualintheWhiteNiledistricts,flatanduninteresting。Forestandbushclothedthebanksoftheriver,butthisformedamerefringeforadepthofabouthalfamile,beyondwhichallwasopenprairie。
Althoughtherewasaconsiderableextentofforest,therewasadearthofusefultimberforbuildingpurposes。Theonlylargetreeswereaspeciesofmimosa,namedbytheArabs”kook。”Wewereveryshortofsmallrowingboats,thosebelongingtothesteamerswerelargeandclumsy,andIwishedtobuildafewhandydingiesthatwouldbeextremelyusefulforthenextvoyageuptheobstructionsoftheBahrGiraffe。IthereforeinstructedtheEnglishshipwrightstotakethejobinhand,andduringaramblethroughtheforesttheyselectedseveraltrees。Thesewerequicklyfelled,andthesawyersweresoonatworkcuttingplanks,keels,andallthenecessarywoodforboat-building。ItisapleasuretoseeEnglishmechanicsatworkinawildcountry;theyfinishajobwhileanEgyptianworkmanisconsideringhowtodoit。InaveryshorttimeMr。Jarvis,theheadshipwright,hadconstructedanimpromptuworkshop,withanironroof,withintheforest;severalsetsofsawyerswereatwork,andinafewdaysthekeelofanewboatwaslaiddown。
Thechiefmechanicalengineer,Mr。McWilliam,wasengagedinsettingupthesteamsaw-mills,andinafewweeksafterourfirstarrivalinthisuninhabitedwilderness,thechangeappearedmagical。Inadditiontothelongrowsofwhitetents,andthepermanentironmagazines,werehundredsofneathutsarrangedinexactlines;alargeironworkshopcontaininglathes,drillingmachines,andsmallverticalsawmachine;
nexttothistheblacksmith’sbellowsroared;andtheconstantsoundofthehammerandanvilbetokenedanewlifeinthesilentforestsoftheWhiteNile。TherewereseveralgoodmenwhohadreceivedaEuropeanmechanicaleducationamongthoseIhadbroughtfromEgypt;thesewerenowengagedwiththeEnglishengineersinrepairingtheengineoftheNo。10steamer,whichrequiredanewpiston。Iorderedanumberofverycrookedbill-hookstobepreparedforcuttingthetangledvegetationduringournextvoyage。Thefirstboat,aboutsixteenfeetlong,wasprogressing,andtheentirestationwasafieldofindustry。Thegardensweregreenwithvegetables,andeverythingwouldhavebeenflourishinghadthetroopsbeeningoodhealth。ThosemiserableEgyptiansappearedtobeinahopelessconditionmorally。Itwasimpossibletoinstilanyspiritintothem,andifsick,theyatoncemadeuptheirmindstodie。
ItistobehopedthatmyregimentofconvictswasnotafairsampleofthespiritandintelligenceoftheEgyptianfellah。SomeofthemDESERTED。
Thereisanabsurdprejudiceamongthementhatthegrindingofflourupontheusualflatmillstoneisanunmanlytaskthatshouldalwaysbeperformedbyawoman。Thisisaveryancientprejudice,ifwemayjudgebythesymbolsfoundupontheflatmillstonesoftheancientEgyptians。
WealsohearintheTestament,”twowomenshallbegrindingtogether;
oneshallbetaken,theotherleft。”Therewasascarcityofwomeninourstation,andthegrindingofthecornwouldhavegivenrisetomuchdiscontenthadInotexperiencedthisdifficultyinaformervoyage,andprovidedmyselfwithsteelcorn-mills。Ihadoneoftheseerectedforeachcompanyoftroops,andinadditiontotheusuallabour,Ialwayssentencedmenunderpunishmenttosomanyhoursatthemill。
Althoughthiscountrywasexceedinglyrichinsoil,itwasentirelyuninhabitedonoursidetheeastoftheriver。ThishadformerlybeentheDinkacountry,butithadbeenquitedepopulatedbyrazziasmadeforslavesbytheformerandpresentgovernorsofFashoda。Theseraidshadbeenmadeonalargescale,withseveralthousandtroops,inadditiontothesharpslave-hunters,theBaggaraArabs,asallies。TheresultwasalmosttheexterminationoftheDinkatribe。ItseemedincomprehensibletotheShillooknativesthatagovernmentthathadonlylatelymadeslave-huntingaprofessionshouldsuddenlyturnagainsttheslave-hunters。
Ifrequentlyrodeonhorsebackaboutthecountry,andwhereverIfoundaspotslightlyraisedabovethegenerallevel,Iwassuretodiscoverquantitiesofbrokenpottery,thevestigesofvillages,whichhadataformertimebeennumerous。Therewasverylittlegame,butnowandthenostricheswereseenstalkingabouttheyellowplainsofwitheredgrass。
OnoneoccasionIwasridingwithLieutenantBaker,accompaniedbyafeworderlies,whenIdistinguishedtheformsofseveralostrichesatagreatdistance。Theywerefeedingontheflatplainwhereitwashopelesstoattemptanapproach。Iwasjustreplacingmytelescope,whenIobservedanostrichemergefrombehindsomebushes,about400yards’
distance。Thiswasamalebird,bytheblackcolour,anditappearedtobefeedingtowardsthescatteredbushonmyleft。Wewereatthemomentpartiallyconcealedbythegreenfoliage。Iimmediatelydismounted,andleavingthepartybehindthebushes,Iranquicklyforward,alwaysconcealedbythethickthorns,untilIthoughtImustbesomewherewithinshot,unlessthebirdhaddiscoveredmeandescapedwithoutmyknowledge。Inowwentcautiouslyandslowlyforward,stoopingunderthebusheswhennecessary,andkeepingagoodlookoutonallsides,asI
expectedthattheostrichmustbesomewhereinthejungle。Atlength,asIturnedroundaclumpofthickthorns,Isightedthebirdracingawaywithimmensespeedstraightfrommeatabout130yards。Iraisedthe150-yardsightoftheDutchman,andtakinghimverysteadily,asthebirdkeptaperfectlystraightcourse,Ifired。Theostrichatoncefellwithsogreatashockuponthehard,parchedground,thattheairwasfulloffeathers。Istepped130longpaces,andfoundthatthebullethadstruckthebirdinthecentreoftheback,killingitinstantly。Mypartycameuptomywhistle,andIdespatchedamountedorderlytocamptobringmenanddonkeys。
AlthoughIhavebeenmanyyearsinAfrica,thiswasthefirstandthelastostrichthatIhaveeverbagged。Itwasaveryfinemale,andthetwothighsandlegswereaveryfairloadforastrongdonkey。
Ihaveseenerroneousaccountsofostrichesdesignatedastwovarieties,theblackandthegrey。Theblack,withwhitefeathersinthewingsandtail,issimplythemale,andthegreythefemale。Thefeathersofthisbirdwereoldandinbadorder。ThefatismuchesteemedbytheArabsasanexternalapplicationforrheumatism。Ifoundthestomachrichinscorpions,beetles,leavesoftrees,andwhiteroundedquartzpebbles。
Thebirdmusthavecomefromaconsiderabledistanceastherewasneitherrocknorpebbleintheneighbourhood。
OnmyreturntocampIcarvedanartificialostrichheadfromapieceofwood,andmadefalseeyeswiththeneckofawinebottle。Iintendedtostickthisheaduponapole,concealedinalinenfishingrodcase,andtodressupmycapwiththickplumesofostrichfeathers。Ihavenodoubtthatitwouldbepossibletoapproachostrichesingrassbythisimitation,asthepolewouldbecarriedinthelefthand,andallthemovementsoftheostrichesmightbeeasilyimitated。Thepoleinthelefthandrestedonthegroundwouldmakeagoodrestfortheriflewhenthemomentarrivedfortheshot。
Heavyrainssetin,andthehithertodryplainsbecamefloodedandswampy,thusIneverhadanopportunitytotrymyfalseostrich。
TheShillookswerenowbecomeourfastfriends。Thecampwascrowdeddailywithnativeswhocamebywaterfromaconsiderabledistancetotrafficwiththesoldiers。Likeallnegroes,theyweresharptraders,withaJewishtendencyintheirbargains。Theybroughtrawcottonandprovisionsofallkindsinexchangeforcottonmanufacturesandiron。
Theircountryconsistssimplyofrichalluvialsoil,thereforeallironmustbeimported,anditisofgreatvalue。Thebestarticlesofexchangeforthiscountrywouldbepiecesofwroughtironofaboutfourouncesinweightandsixincheslong,andpiecesofeightounces,andeightinchesinlength。Alsocottoncloth,knownasgreycalico,togetherwithwhitecalico,andothercheapmanufactures。Thecottonthatisindigenoustothecountryisshortinstaple,butitgrowsperfectlywild。TheShillooksareveryindustrious,andcultivatelargequantitiesofdhurraandsomemaize,butthelatterisonlyusedtoeatinagreenstate,roastedontheashes。Thegrainofmaizeistoohardtogrindonthecommonflatmillstonesofthenatives,thusitisseldomcultivatedinanyportionofCentralAfricaonanextendedscale。IgavesomegoodEgyptiancotton-seedtothenatives,alsotheseedofvariousEuropeanvegetables。Tobaccowasingreatdemandbythetroops,andI
consideredthequalitysuppliedbytheShillookssuperiortothatcultivatedintheSoudan。
Althoughthecampwasvisitedbyhundredsofnatives,includingtheirwomen,daily,therewereseldomanyquarrelsoverthemarketing,andwhenadisagreementtookplaceitwasgenerallythefaultofasoldier,whotooksomethingoncredit,andpleadedinabilitytopay。I
administeredarough-and-readyjustice,andappointedanofficertosuperintendthebazaartopreventsquabbles。
Iwasmuchstruckwiththehonestyofthenatives,whoappearedthoroughlytoappreciatetheprotectionaffordedthem,andthefairdealinginsistedupononthepartofthetroops。Theriverwasabout700
yardswide,butthelandonthewestshorewasonlyalargeisland,throughwhichseveralsmallstreamscutdeepchannels。ThisislandwasseparatedfromthemainwesternshorebyabranchoftheWhiteNile。Thewestbankwasthicklylinedwithvillagesforabout200milesofriverfrontagethroughouttheShillookcountry,thusaffordingadmirableopportunitiesfordirecttradewithvesselsfromKhartoum。Itwasatediousjourneyforthenativestovisitusdaily,astheyhadtocrossfirsttheirwesternbranchoftheNile,thentocarrytheircanoesacrosstheislandforaboutamile,andagaintocrossthemainrivertoarriveatourcamp。TheShillookcanoehasoftenbeendescribed。Itisformedoflongpiecesoftheambatch-wood,whichislighterthancork。
Thesecurioustrees,whichgrowintheswampsoftheWhiteNile,arethickatthebase,andtapertoapoint,thusanumberarelashedsecurelytogether,andthepointsaretiedtightlywithcord,soastoformabow。Thesecanoesorraftsgenerallyconveytwopersons,andtheyareespeciallyadaptedforthemarshynavigationoftheriver,astheycanbecarriedontheheadwithoutdifficulty,whenitmaybenecessarytocrossanislandormorass。
Ournativetradersarriveddailyinfleetsofambatchcanoesfromaconsiderabledistance。Thesoldierstrustedthemwiththeirrationsofcorntogrind,ratherthantakethetroubletoprepareitthemselves。
Thenativestookthecorntotheirhomes,andinvariablyreturnedwiththehonestcomplementofflour。IneverhadacomplaintbroughtbeforemeofdishonestywhenaShillookhadbeentrusted。Ihavegreathopesofthesepeople,theysimplyrequireallassuranceofgoodfaithandprotectiontobecomeavaluablerace。
FromtheShillookcountrytoKhartoumtheriverissuperbandcanbenavigatedatallseasons。ThenorthernendofthiscountryisrichinforestsoftheAcaciaArabicaSoont,awoodthatisinvaluableasfuelforsteamers,andistheonlyreallydurablewoodforship-buildingintheSoudan。TherainsbegininMay,andareregularthroughoutfourmonths,thuscottonmaybecultivatedwithouttheexpenseofartificialirrigation;atthesametimethedrysummeroffersaninestimableadvantageforgatheringthecrop。
TheDinkacountryontheeastbankwouldhavebeenofequalvalue,but,asIhavealreadydescribed,ithasbeendepopulated。
Therewasanoldblindsheikwhofrequentlyvisitedusfromtheotherside,andthispooroldfellowcametoanuntimelyendwhenreturningonedaywithhissonfrommarketingatTewfikeeyah。Iwaswalkingonthequay,whenIheardagreatcommotion,andIsawasplashingintheriver,thesurfaceofwhichwascoveredwiththeambatchfragmentsofanativecanoe。Thereweremanycanoesontheriver,severalofwhichimmediatelywenttotheassistanceoftwomenwhowerestrugglinginthewater。Ahippopotamushadwantonlychargedthecanoe,andseizingitinhismouth,togetherwiththepooroldblindsheikwhocouldnotavoidthedanger,crunchedthefrailboattopieces,andsocrushedandlaceratedtheoldmanthat,althoughhewasrescuedbyhiscomrades,hediedduringthenight。
AspeaceandconfidencehadbeenthoroughlyestablishedamongtheShillooks,IdeterminedtosendforthegovernorofFashoda,andtointroducehimpersonallytotheoldking,QuatKare,whomhehadofficiallyreportedtobedead。IthereforesummonedQuatKare,andhavinginformedhimofmyintention,IsentthesteamertoFashodasixty-fivemiles,andinvitedtheKoorditopaymeavisit。
Whenhearrived,Ireceivedhimbeneaththetreewhichformedmydivan,andafterapreliminarypipeandcoffee,weproceededtobusiness。I
toldhimthathemusthavebeeninerrorwhenhereportedthedeathoftheoldking,asIhadprovedhimtobestillalive。HerepliedthathedidnotbelievetherealQuatKarewasinexistence,ashehadheardonthebestauthoritythathewasdead。Igaveanordertoanaide-de-camp,andinafewminutesthetallandstatelyfigureoftheoldkingwasseenapproaching,accompaniedbyhiswives,ministers,andacrowdofmostorderlyretainers,includingseveralofhissons。Thekingsatdownuponacarpetinadignifiedmanner,withouttakingtheslightestnoticeoftheKoordigovernor。Histwowivessatdownbyhim,buthissonsstoodwithhisfollowersafewyardsdistant。
TheKoordi,whowasaremarkablyhandsomeoldman,withasnow-whitebeard,satequallyunmoved,smokingthelongchibook,withoutapparentlyregardingthekingorhispeople。Thechibookisamostusefulinstrumentforadiplomat。Ifthesituationisdifficult,hecanpuff,puff,puff,andtheincorrigiblepipewillnotdraw;inthemeantime,heconsidersareply。Atlengththepipedraws,acloudofsmokeissuesfromthemouth。”Ibegyourpardon,”saystheembarrasseddiplomat,evidentlyrelievedbythelittleunrealdifficultywithhispipe,”whatwerewetalkingabout?”andhavingconsideredhisreply,heisreadyforargument。Thepipethendrawsleisurely,thesmokeascendsinsteadyclouds,whilehelistenstotheargumentsoftheotherside。Thereisnonecessityforatoosuddenreply。Eveniftheconversationhasceased,thepipemaybecalmlysmoked,whilethefactsofthecasearearrangedintheowner’smindbeforehecommitshimselftoananswer。
Inthepresentinstancenobodyspoke,buttheKoordigovernorofFashodasmokedsteadily。PresentlyQuatKarefixedhiseyesuponhimwithasteadyanddeterminedstare,butwithhisusualimmovablefeatures,andhethussilentlyregardedhimduringseveralminutes。”HaveIfoundthee,Omineenemy?”mighthavebeentheShillookking’sidea,buthekeptsilence。
Howlongthistableauvivantwouldhavecontinueditisimpossibletosay,thereforeIproceededtobusinessbyaskingthegovernorifheknewQuatKarebysight?Heonlyreplied”yes。”
第13章