Deepfissuresaremade，probablybytheelevationoftheland，proofsofwhichareseeninmodernshellsimbeddedinmarlytufaallroundthecoast-lineWhetherthisprocessofdesiccationisasrapidthroughoutthecontinentas，inalettertothelateDeanBuckland，in1843，IshowedtohavebeenthecaseintheBechuanacountry，itisnotformetosay；but，thoughthereisaslighttraditionofthewatershavingburstthroughthelowhillssouthoftheBarotse，thereisnoneofasuddenupheavalaccompaniedbyanearthquake。
　　TheformationofthecrackofMosioatunyaisperhapstooancientforthat；
　　yet，althoughinformationofanyremarkableeventisoftentransmittedinthenativenames，andtheyevenretainatraditionwhichlookslikethestoryofSolomonandtheharlots，thereisnotanamelikeTomEarthquakeorSamShake-the-groundinthewholecountry。
　　TheyhaveatraditionwhichmayrefertothebuildingoftheTowerofBabel，butitendsintheboldbuildersgettingtheircrownscrackedbythefallofthescaffolding；andthattheycameoutofacavecalled“Loey“Noe？incompanywiththebeasts，andallpointtoitinonedirection，viz。，theN。N。ELoey，too，isanexceptioninthelanguage，astheyusemasculineinsteadofneuterpronounstoit。
　　Ifwetakeaglancebackatthegreatvalley，theformtherivershavetakenimpartstheideaofalakeslowlydrainedout，fortheyhavecutoutforthemselvesbedsexactlylikewhatwemayseeinthesoftmudofashallowpoolofrain-water，whenthatisletoffbyafurrow。
　　Thisideawouldprobablynotstrikeapersononcomingfirstintothecountry，butmoreextensiveacquaintancewiththeriversystemcertainlywouldconveytheimpressionNoneoftheriversinthevalleyoftheLeeambyehaveslopesdowntotheirbedsIndeed，manypartsaremuchliketheThamesattheIsleofDogs，onlytheLeeambyehastorisetwentyorthirtyfeetbeforeitcanoverflowsomeofitsmeadowsTherivershaveeachabedoflowwaterasimplefurrowcutsharplyoutofthecalcareoustufawhichlinedthechanneloftheancientlakeandanotherofinundation。
　　Whenthebedsofinundationarefilled，theyassumetheappearanceofchainsoflakesWhentheClydefillstheholms“haughs“
　　aboveBothwellBridgeandretiresagainintoitschannel，itresemblestheriverwearespeakingof，onlyheretherearenohighlandsslopingdowntowardthebedofinundation，forthegreaterpartoftheregionisnotelevatedfiftyfeetabovethemEventherockybanksoftheLeeambyebelowGonye，andtheridgesboundingtheBarotsevalley，arenotmorethantwoorthreehundredfeetinaltitudeoverthegeneraldeadlevelManyoftheriversareverytortuousintheircourse，theChobeandSimahparticularlyso；and，ifwemayreceivethetestimonyofthenatives，theyformwhatanatomistscall`anastamosis’，oranetworkofriversThus，forinstance，theyassuredmethatiftheygouptheSimahinacanoe，theycanentertheChobe，anddescendthatrivertotheLeeambye；ortheymaygouptheKamaandcomedowntheSimah；andsointhecaseoftheKafue。
　　ItisreputedtobeconnectedinthiswaywiththeLeeambyeinthenorth，andtopartwiththeLoangwa；andtheMakololowentfromtheoneintotheotherincanoesAndeventhoughtheinterlacingmaynotbequitetotheextentbelievedbythenatives，thecountryissolevelandtheriverssotortuousthatIseenoimprobabilityintheconclusionthathereisanetworkofwatersofaverypeculiarnature。
　　ThereasonwhyIamdisposedtoplaceacertainamountofconfidenceinthenativereportsisthis：whenMrOswellandIdiscoveredtheZambesiinthecentreofthecontinentin1851，beingunabletoascenditatthetimeourselves，weemployedthenativestodrawamapembodyingtheirideasofthatriverWethensentthenativemaphomewiththesameviewthatInowmentiontheirideasoftheriversystem，namely，inordertobeanaidtoothersinfartherinvestigations。
　　WhenIwasabletoascendtheLeeambyeto14Degsouth，andsubsequentlydescendit，Ifound，afterallthecareIcouldbestow，thatthealterationsIwasabletomakeintheoriginalnativeplanwereverytriflingThegeneralideatheirmapgavewaswonderfullyaccurate；
　　andnowIgive，inthelargermapappended，theirviewsoftheotherrivers，inthehopethattheymayprovehelpfultoanytravelerwhomaypursuetheinvestigationfarther。
　　24THWeremainedadayatthevillageofMoyaraHerethevalleyinwhichtheLekoneflowstrendsawaytotheeastward，whileourcourseismoretothenortheastThecountryisrockyandrough，thesoilbeingredsand，whichiscoveredwithbeautifulgreentrees，yieldingabundanceofwildfruitsThefatherofMoyarawasapowerfulchief，butthesonnowsitsamongtheruinsofthetown，withfourorfivewivesandveryfewpeopleAthishamletanumberofstakesareplantedintheground，andIcountedfifty-fourhumanskullshungontheirpointsThesewereMatebele，who，unabletoapproachSebituaneontheislandofLoyela，hadreturnedsickandfamishingMoyara’sfathertookadvantageoftheirreducedcondition，andafterputtingthemtodeath，mountedtheirheadsintheBatokafashionTheoldmanwhoperpetratedthisdeednowliesinthemiddleofhisson’shuts，withalotofrottenivoryoverhisgraveOnecannothelpfeelingthankfulthatthereignofsuchwretchesisoverTheyinhabitedthewholeofthissideofthecountry，andwereprobablythebarriertotheextensionofthePortuguesecommerceinthisdirectionWhenlookingattheseskulls，IremarkedtoMoyarathatmanyofthemwerethoseofmereboysHeassentedreadily，andpointedthemoutassuchIaskedwhyhisfatherhadkilledboys“Toshowhisfierceness。”wastheanswer。
　　“Isitfiercenesstokillboys？”“Yes；theyhadnobusinesshere。”
　　WhenItoldhimthatthisprobablywouldinsurehisowndeathiftheMatebelecameagain，hereplied，“WhenIhearoftheircomingIshallhidethebones。”
　　Hewasevidentlyproudofthesetrophiesofhisfather’sferocity，andIwasassuredbyotherBatokathatfewstrangerseverreturnedfromavisittothisquarterIfamanwishedtocurryfavorwithaBatokachief，heascertainedwhenastrangerwasabouttoleave，andwaylaidhimatadistancefromthetown，andwhenhebroughthisheadbacktothechief，itwasmountedasatrophy，thedifferentchiefsvieingwitheachotherastowhichshouldmountthegreatestnumberofskullsinhisvillage。
　　If，ashasbeenasserted，thePortugueseeverhadachainoftradingstationsacrossthecountryfromCacondatoTete，itmusthavepassedthroughthesepeople；butthetotalignoranceoftheZambesiflowingfromnorthtosouthinthecentreofthecountry，andthewantofknowledgeoftheastonishingfallsofVictoria，whichexcitethewonderofeventhenatives，togetherwiththeabsenceofanytraditionofsuchachainofstations，compelmetobelievethattheyexistedonlyonpaperThisconvictionisstrengthenedbythefactthatwhenalateattemptwasmadetoclaimthehonorofcrossingthecontinentforthePortuguese，theonlyproofadvancedwasthejourneyoftwoblacktradersformerlymentioned，adornedwiththenameof“Portuguese“。
　　Ifachainofstationshadexisted，afewhundrednamesofthesamesortmighteasilyhavebeenbroughtforward；andsuchistheloveofbarteramongallthecentralAfricans，that，hadthereexistedamarketforivory，itsvaluewouldhavebecomeknown，andeventhatonthegravesofthechiefswouldnothavebeensafe。
　　WhenabouttoleaveMoyaraonthe25th，hebroughtarootwhich，whenpoundedandsprinkledovertheoxen，isbelievedtodisgustthetsetse，sothatitfliesoffwithoutsuckingthebloodHepromisedtoshowmetheplantortreeifIwouldgivehimanox；but，asweweretraveling，andcouldnotaffordthetimerequiredfortheexperiment，soasnottobecheatedasIhadtoooftenbeenbymymedicalfriends，IdeferredtheinvestigationtillIreturnedItisprobablybutanevanescentremedy，andcapableofrenderingthecattlesafeduringonenightonlyMoyaraisnowquiteadependentoftheMakololo，andmynewparty，notbeingthoroughlydrilled，forcedhimtocarryatuskforthemWhenIrelievedhim，hepouredforthashowerofthanksatbeingallowedtogobacktosleepbeneathhisskulls。
　　NextdaywecametoNamilanga，or“TheWellofJoy“Itisasmallwelldugbeneathaverylargefig-tree，theshadeofwhichrendersthewaterdelightfullycoolThetemperaturethroughthedaywas104Degintheshadeand94Degaftersunset，buttheairwasnotatalloppressive。
　　Thiswellreceiveditsnamefromthefactthat，informertimes，maraudingparties，inreturningwithcattle，satdownhereandwereregaledwithboyaloa，music，andthelullilooingofthewomenfromtheadjacenttowns。
　　Allthesurroundingcountrywasformerlydenselypeopled，thoughnowdesolateandstillTheoldheadmanoftheplacetoldusthathisfatheroncewenttoBambala，wherewhitetraderslived，whenourinformantwasachild，andreturnedwhenhehadbecomeaboyofabouttenyearsHewentagain，andreturnedwhenitwastimetoknockouthisson’steethAsthattakesplaceattheageofpuberty，hemusthavespentatleastfiveyearsineachjourneyHeaddedthatmanywhowentthereneverreturned，becausetheylikedthatcountrybetterthanthisTheyhadevenforsakentheirwivesandchildren；
　　andchildrenhadbeensoenticedandflatteredbythefinerybestoweduponthemthere，thattheyhaddisownedtheirparentsandadoptedothers。
　　Theplacetowhichtheyhadgone，whichtheynamedBambala，wasprobablyDambarari，whichwassituatedclosetoZumbo。
　　Thiswasthefirstintimationwehadofintercoursewiththewhites。
　　TheBarotse，andalltheothertribesinthecentralvalley，havenosuchtraditionasthis，norhaveeithertheoneortheotheranyaccountofatrader’svisittotheminancienttimes。
　　AlltheBatokatribesfollowthecuriouscustomofknockingouttheupperfrontteethattheageofpubertyThisisdonebybothsexes；
　　andthoughtheunderteeth，beingrelievedfromtheattritionoftheupper，growlongandsomewhatbentout，andtherebycausetheunderliptoprotrudeinamostunsightlyway，noyoungwomanthinksherselfaccomplisheduntilshehasgotridoftheupperincisorsThiscustomgivesalltheBatokaanuncouth，old-man-likeappearanceTheirlaughishideous，yettheyaresoattachedtoitthatevenSebituanewasunabletoeradicatethepracticeHeissuedordersthatnoneofthechildrenlivingunderhimshouldbesubjectedtothecustombytheirparents，anddisobediencetohismandateswasusuallypunishedwithseverity；
　　but，notwithstandingthis，thechildrenwouldappearinthestreetswithouttheirincisors，andnoonewouldconfesstothedeed。
　　Whenquestionedrespectingtheoriginofthispractice，theBatokareplythattheirobjectistobelikeoxen，andthosewhoretaintheirteeththeyconsidertoresemblezebrasWhetherthisisthetruereasonornot，itisdifficulttosay；butitisnoticeablethatthevenerationforoxenwhichprevailsinmanytribesshouldherebeassociatedwithhatredtothezebra，asamongtheBakwains；thatthisoperationisperformedatthesameagethatcircumcisionisinothertribes；
　　andthatherethatceremonyisunknownThecustomissouniversalthatapersonwhohashisteethisconsideredugly，andoccasionally，whentheBatokaborrowedmylooking-glass，thedisparagingremarkwouldbemaderespectingboysorgirlswhostillretainedtheirteeth，“Lookatthegreatteeth！”SomeoftheMakolologiveamorefacetiousexplanationofthecustom：theysaythatthewifeofachiefhavinginaquarrelbittenherhusband’shand，he，inrevenge，orderedherfrontteethtobeknockedout，andallthemeninthetribefollowedhisexample；butthisdoesnotexplainwhytheyafterwardknockedouttheirown。
　　TheBatokaoftheZambesiaregenerallyverydarkincolor，andverydegradedandnegro-likeinappearance，whilethosewholiveonthehighlandswearenowascendingarefrequentlyofthecolorofcoffeeandmilk。
　　WehadalargenumberoftheBatokaofMokwineinourparty，sentbySekeletutocarryhistusksTheirgreaterdegradationwasprobablycausedbythetreatmentoftheirchiefsthebarbariansoftheislands。
　　Ifoundthemmoredifficulttomanagethananyoftherestofmycompanions，beingmuchlessreasonableandimpressiblethantheothers。
　　Mypartyconsistedoftheheadmenaforementioned，Sekwebu，andKanyata。
　　WewerejoinedatthefallsbyanotherheadmanoftheMakololo，namedMonahin，incommandoftheBatokaWehadalsosomeoftheBanajoaunderMosisinyane，and，lastofall，asmallpartyofBashubiaandBarotseunderTubaMokoro，whichhadbeenfurnishedbySekeletubecauseoftheirabilitytoswimTheycarriedtheirpaddleswiththem，and，astheMakololosuggested，wereabletoswimovertheriversbynightandstealcanoes，iftheinhabitantsshouldbesounreasonableastorefusetolendthemThesedifferentpartiesassortedtogetherintomesses；
　　anyordersweregiventhroughtheirheadman，andwhenfoodwasobtainedhedistributedittothemessEachpartyknewitsownspotintheencampment；andasthiswasalwaysplacedsothatourbacksshouldbetotheeast，thedirectionfromwhencetheprevailingwindscame，notimewaslostinfixingtheshedsofourencampmentTheyeachtookitinturntopullgrasstomakemybed，soIlayluxuriously。
　　NOVEMBER26THAstheoxencouldonlymoveatnight，inconsequenceofafearthatthebuffaloesinthisquartermighthaveintroducedthetsetse，Iusuallyperformedthemarchbydayonfoot，whilesomeofthemenbroughtontheoxenbynight。