butIamapoorjudgeofdistancesonwater，forIshowedanavalfriendwhatIsupposedtobefourhundredyardsintheBayofLoanda，and，tomysurprise，hepronouncedittobeninehundred。
ItriedtomeasuretheLeeambyewithastrongthread，theonlylineIhadinmypossession，but，whenthemenhadgonetwoorthreehundredyards，theygotintoconversation，anddidnothearusshoutingthatthelinehadbecomeentangledBystillgoingontheybrokeit，and，beingcarriedawaydownthestream，itwaslostonasnag。
InvainItriedtobringtomyrecollectionthewayIhadbeentaughttomeasureariverbytakingananglewiththesextantThatIonceknewit，andthatitwaseasy，wereallthelostideasIcouldrecall，andtheyonlyincreasedmyvexationHowever，Imeasuredtheriverfartherdownbyanotherplan，andthenIdiscoveredthatthePortuguesehadmeasureditatTete，andfounditalittleoveronethousandyardsAtthefallsitisasbroadasatTete，ifnotmoresoWhoevermaycomeaftermewillnot，Itrust，findreasontosayIhaveindulgedinexaggeration。*
Withrespecttothedrawing，itmustbeborneinmindthatitwascomposedfromarudesketchasviewedfromtheisland，whichexhibitedthecolumnsofvaporonly，andagroundplanTheartisthasgivenagoodideaofthescene，but，bywayofexplanation，hehasshownmoreofthedepthofthefissurethanisvisibleexceptbygoingclosetotheedgeTheleft-handcolumn，andthatfarthestoff，arethesmallest，andalloughttohavebeenalittlemoretaperingatthetops。
*Theriverisaboutonemile1。6kmwideatthefalls，andplungesover350feetatthecentreLivingstonegreatlyunderestimatedbothdistancesAL。，1997。
ThefissureissaidbytheMakololotobeverymuchdeeperfarthertotheeastward；thereisonepartatwhichthewallsaresoslopingthatpeopleaccustomedtoitcangodownbydescendinginasittingposition。
TheMakololoononeoccasion，pursuingsomefugitiveBatoka，sawthem，unabletostoptheimpetusoftheirflightattheedge，literallydashedtopiecesatthebottomTheybeheldthestreamlikea“whitecord“atthebottom，andsofardownprobably300feet
thattheybecamegiddy，andwerefaintogoawayholdingontotheground。
Now，thoughtheedgeoftherockoverwhichtheriverfallsdoesnotshowwearingmorethanthreefeet，andthereisnoappearanceoftheoppositewallbeingwornoutatthebottominthepartsexposedtoview，yetitisprobablethat，whereithasflowedbeyondthewalls，thesidesofthefissuremayhavegivenway，andthepartsoutofsightmaybebroaderthanthe“whitecord“onthesurfaceTheremayevenbesomeramificationsofthefissure，whichtakeaportionofthestreamquitebeneaththerocks；butthisIdidnotlearn。
Ifwetakethewantofmuchwearonthelipofhardbasalticrockasofanyvalue，theperiodwhenthisrockwasrivenisnotgeologicallyveryremoteIregrettedthewantofpropermeansofmeasuringandmarkingitswidthatthefalls，inorderthat，atsomefuturetime，thequestionwhetheritisprogressiveornotmightbetested。
Itseemedasifapalm-treecouldbelaidacrossitfromtheisland。
Andifitisprogressive，asitwouldmarkagreatnaturaldrainagebeingeffected，itmightfurnishahopethatAfricawillonedaybecomeahealthycontinentItis，atanyrate，verymuchchangedinrespecttoitslakeswithinacomparativelyrecentperiod。
Atthreespotsnearthesefalls，oneofthemtheislandinthemiddle，onwhichwewere，threeBatokachiefsofferedupprayersandsacrificestotheBarimoTheychosetheirplacesofprayerwithinthesoundoftheroarofthecataract，andinsightofthebrightbowsinthecloud。
TheymusthavelookeduponthescenewithaweFearmayhaveinducedtheselectionTheriveritselfistothemmysterious。
Thewordsofthecanoe-songare，“TheLeeambye！NobodyknowsWhenceitcomesandwhitheritgoes。”
Theplayofcolorsofthedoubleirisonthecloud，seenbythemelsewhereonlyastherainbow，mayhaveledthemtotheideathatthiswastheabodeofDeitySomeoftheMakololo，whowentwithmeneartoGonye，lookeduponthesamesignwithaweWhenseenintheheavensitisnamed“motseoabarimo“thepestleofthegods。
Heretheycouldapproachtheemblem，andseeitstandsteadilyabovetheblusteringuproarbelowatypeofHimwhositssupreme
aloneunchangeable，thoughrulingoverallchangingthingsBut，notawareofHistruecharacter，theyhadnoadmirationofthebeautifulandgoodintheirbosomsTheydidnotimitateHisbenevolence，fortheywereabloody，imperiouscrew，andSebituaneperformedanobleserviceintheexpulsionfromtheirfastnessesofthesecruel“LordsoftheIsles“。
Havingfeastedmyeyeslongonthebeautifulsight，IreturnedtomyfriendsatKalai，andsayingtoSekeletuthathehadnothingelseworthshowinginhiscountry，hiscuriositywasexcitedtovisititthenextday。
Ireturnedwiththeintentionoftakingalunarobservationfromtheislanditself，butthecloudswereunfavorable，consequentlyallmydeterminationsofpositionrefertoKalai。
Lat17d51’54“S。，long25d41’E。Sekeletuacknowledgedtofeelingalittlenervousattheprobability*ofbeingsuckedintothegulfbeforereachingtheislandHiscompanionsamusedthemselvesbythrowingstonesdown，andwonderedtoseethemdiminishinginsize，andevendisappearing，beforetheyreachedthewateratthebottom。
*InmodernAmericanEnglish，theword“possibility“ismoreappropriatehere，andelsewhereinthetextwhere“probability“isusedAL。，1997。
IhadanotherobjectinviewinmyreturntotheislandIobservedthatitwascoveredwithtrees，theseedsofwhichhadprobablycomedownwiththestreamfromthedistantnorth，andseveralofwhichIhadseennowhereelse，andeverynowandthenthewindwaftedalittleofthecondensedvaporoverit，andkeptthesoilinastateofmoisture，whichcausedaswardofgrass，growingasgreenasonanEnglishlawnIselectedaspotnottoonearthechasm，fortheretheconstantdepositionofthemoisturenourishednumbersofpolypiofamushroomshapeandfleshyconsistence，butsomewhatbackandmadealittlegardenIthereplantedaboutahundredpeachandapricotstones，andaquantityofcoffee-seeds。
Ihadattemptedfruit-treesbefore，but，whenleftinchargeofmyMakololofriends，theywerealwaysallowedtowither，afterhavingvegetated，bybeingforgottenIbargainedforahedgewithoneoftheMakololo，andifheisfaithful，IhavegreathopesofMosioatunya’sabilitiesasanursery-manMyonlysourceoffearisthehippopotami，whosefootprintsIsawontheisland。
Whenthegardenwasprepared，Icutmyinitialsonatree，andthedate1855。
ThiswastheonlyinstanceinwhichIindulgedinthispieceofvanity。
Thegardenstandsinfront，and，weretherenohippopotami，IhavenodoubtbutthiswillbetheparentofallthegardenswhichmayyetbeinthisnewcountryWethenwentuptoKalaiagain。
OnpassingupwehadaviewofthehutontheislandwheremygoodshadlainsolonginsafetyItwasunderagroupofpalm-trees，andSekeletuinformedmethat，sofullypersuadedweremostoftheMakololoofthepresenceofdangerouscharmsinthepackages，that，hadInotreturnedtotellthemthecontrary，theyneverwouldhavebeentouched。
Someofthedivinershadbeensopositiveintheirdecisionsonthepoint，thatthemenwholiftedabagthoughttheyfeltalivekidinit。
ThedivinersalwaysquotetheirpredictionswhentheyhappentotallywiththeeventTheydeclaredthatthewholepartywhichwenttoLoandahadperished；andasIalwaysquotedtheinstancesinwhichtheyfailed，manyofthemrefusedtothrowthe“bola“instrumentsofdivination
whenIwasnearThiswasanotedinstanceoffailure。
Itwouldhaveaffordedmeequalifnotgreaterpleasuretohaveexposedthefailure，ifsuchithadbeen，oftheEuropeandivinerwhosepaperlayawholeyearonthisisland，butIwasobligedtoconfessthathehadbeensuccessfulwithhis“bola“，andcouldonlycomfortmyselfwiththeideathat，thoughSirRoderickMurchison’sdiscoursehadlainsolongwithinsightandsoundofthemagnificentfalls，Ihadbeen“cutout“bynooneintheirdiscovery。
Isawthefallsatlowwater，andthecolumnsofvaporwhenfiveorsixmilesdistantWhentheriverisfull，orinflood，thecolumns，itissaid，canbeseentenmilesoff，andthesoundisquitedistinctsomewhatbelowKalai，oraboutanequaldistance。
NoonecanthengototheislandinthemiddleThenextvisitormustbearthesepointsinmindincomparinghisdescriptionwithmine。
WeheregotinformationofaforaywhichhadbeenmadebyaMakololomaninthedirectionweweregoingThisinstanceofmaraudingwassomuchinaccordancewiththesystemwhichhasbeenpursuedinthiscountrythatIdidnotwonderatitButthemanhadusedSekeletu’snameashavingsenthim，and，theproofbeingconvincing，hewouldundoubtedlybefined。
Asthatwouldbethefirstinstanceofafinebeingleviedformarauding，Ilookeduponitasthebeginningofabetterstateofthings。
Intribeswhichhavebeenaccustomedtocattle-stealing，theactisnotconsideredimmoralinthewaythattheftisBeforeIknewthelanguagewell，Isaidtoachief，“Youstolethecattleofsoandso。”
“No，Ididnotstealthem。”wasthereply，“IonlyLIFTEDthem。”
Theword“gapa“isidenticalwiththeHighlandtermforthesamedeed。
AnotherpointcametoournoticehereSomeMambarihadcomedownthusfar，andinducedtheBatokatosellaverylargetuskwhichbelongedtoSekeletuforafewbitsofclothTheyhadgoneamongtheBatokawhoneedhoes，and，havingpurchasedsomeofthesefromthepeoplenearSesheke，inducedtheotherslivingfarthereasttosellbothivoryandchildren。
Theywouldnotpartwithchildrenforclothingorbeads，butagriculturewithwoodenhoesissolaborious，thatthesightofthehoesprevailed。
TheMakololoproposedtoknocktheMambariontheheadastheremedythenexttimetheycame；butonmyproposingthattheyshouldsendhoesthemselves，andtherebysecuretheivoryinaquietway，allapprovedhighlyoftheidea，andPitsaneandMohorisiexpatiatedonthevalueoftheivory，theirownwillingnesstogoandsellitatLoanda，andthedisgustwithwhichtheMambariwhomwemetinAngolahadlookedupontheirattempttoreachthepropermarketIfnothinguntowardhappens，Ithinkthereisafairprospectofthetradeinslavesbeingabolishedinanaturalwayinthisquarter，PitsaneandMohorisihavingagainexpressedtheirwillingnesstogoawaybacktoLoandaifSekeletuwouldgivethemordersThiswasthemoreremarkable，asbothhaveplentyoffoodandleisureathome。
20THNOVEMBERSekeletuandhislargepartyhavingconveyedmethusfar，andfurnishedmewithacompanyof114mentocarrythetuskstothecoast，webadeadieutotheMakololo，andproceedednorthwardtotheLekone。
Thecountryaroundisverybeautiful，andwasoncewellpeopledwithBatoka，whopossessedenormousherdsofcattleWhenSebituanecameinformertimes，withhissmallbutwarlikepartyofMakololo，tothisspot，ageneralrisingtookplaceoftheBatokathroughthewholecountry，inorderto“eathimup“；buthisusualsuccessfollowedhim，and，dispersingthem，theMakololoobtainedsomanycattlethattheycouldnottakeanynoteoftheherdsofsheepandgoats。
ThetsetsehasbeenbroughtbybuffaloesintosomedistrictswhereformerlycattleaboundedThisobligedustotravelthefirstfewstagesbynight。
Wecouldnotwelldetectthenatureofthecountryinthedimmoonlight；
thepath，however，seemedtoleadalongthehighbankofwhatmayhavebeentheancientbedoftheZambesibeforethefissurewasmade。
TheLekonenowwindsinitinanoppositedirectiontothatinwhichtheancientrivermusthaveflowed。
BoththeLekoneandUnguesiflowbacktowardthecentreofthecountry，andinanoppositedirectiontothatofthemainstream。
Itwasplain，then，thatwewereascendingthefartherwewenteastward。
ThelevelofthelowerportionoftheLekoneisabouttwohundredfeetabovethatoftheZambesiatthefalls，andconsiderablymorethanthealtitudeofLinyanti；consequently，whentheriverflowedalongthisancientbedinsteadofthroughtherent，thewholecountrybetweenthisandtheridgebeyondLibebewestward，LakeNgamiandtheZougasouthward，andeastwardbeyondNchokotsa，wasonelargefresh-waterlake。
Thereisabundantevidenceoftheexistenceandextentofthisvastlakeinthelongitudesindicated，andstretchingfrom17Degto21Deg。
southlatitudeThewholeofthisspaceispavedwithabedoftufa，moreorlesssoft，accordingasitiscoveredwithsoil，orleftexposedtoatmosphericinfluencesWhereverant-eatersmakedeepholesinthisancientbottom，fresh-watershellsarethrownout，identicalwiththosenowexistingintheLakeNgamiandtheZambesi。
TheBarotsevalleywasanotherlakeofasimilarnature；
andoneexistedbeyondMasiko，andafourthneartheOrangeRiver。
Thewholeoftheselakeswereletoutbymeansofcracksorfissuresmadeinthesubtendingsidesbytheupheavalofthecountry。
ThefissuremadeattheVictoriaFallsletoutthewaterofthisgreatvalley，andleftasmallpatchinwhatwasprobablyitsdeepestportion，andisnowcalledLakeNgamiTheFallsofGonyefurnishedanoutlettothelakeoftheBarotsevalley，andsooftheothergreatlakesofremotetimesTheCongoalsofindsitswaytotheseathroughanarrowfissure，andsodoestheOrangeRiverinthewest；
whileotherrentsmadeintheeasternridge，astheVictoriaFallsandthosetotheeastofTanganyenka，allowedthecentralwaterstodraineastward。
AlltheAfricanlakeshithertodiscoveredareshallow，inconsequenceofbeingthemere`residua’ofverymuchlargerancientbodiesofwater。
Therecanbenodoubtthatthiscontinentwas，informertimes，verymuchmorecopiouslysuppliedwithwaterthanatpresent，butanaturalprocessofdrainagehasbeengoingonforages。