首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第84章
  duringagreatpartoftheyear;theyextendtheircurrentsononesideatleastoftheequatorquitebeyondthemiddleofthecontinent,andevenuntilinAngolatheymeetthesea-breezefromtheAtlantic。
  Ifthereaderrememberstheexplanationgivenatpage109,*
  thatthecomparativewantofrainontheKalahariDesertiscausedbythemassofairlosingitshumidityasitpassesupandglidesoverthesubtendingridge,andwillturntothemap,hemayperceivethatthesamecauseisinoperationinanintensedegreebythemountainsofAbyssiniatorendertheregionaboutDarfurstillmorearid,andthattheflankingrangesmentionedliemuchnearertheequatorthanthosewhichrobtheKalahariofhumidity。
  TheNile,evenwhilerunningthroughapartofthatregion,receivesremarkablyfewbranchesObservingalsothatthereisnoknownabruptlateralmountain-rangebetween6Degand12DegS。,butthatthereisanelevatedpartitionthere,andthatthesouthingandnorthingofthesoutheastersandnortheastersprobablycauseaconfluenceofthetwogreatatmosphericcurrents,hewillperceiveanaccumulationofhumidityontheflanksandcrownofthepartition,insteadof,aselsewhere,oppositetheKalahariandDarfur,adepositionoftheatmosphericmoistureontheeasternslopesofthesubtendingridgesThisexplanationisofferedwithalldeferencetothosewhohavemademeteorologytheirspecialstudy,andasahinttotravelerswhomayhaveopportunitytoexaminethesubjectmorefullyIoftenobserved,whileonaportionofthepartition,thattheairbynightwasgenerallyquitestill,butassoonasthesun’sraysbegantoshootacrosstheupperstrataoftheatmosphereintheearlymorning,acopiousdischargecamesuddenlydownfromtheaccumulatedclouds。
  Italwaysremindedmeoftheexperimentofputtingarodintoasaturatedsolutionofacertainsalt,causinginstantcrystallization。
  This,too,wastheperiodwhenIoftenobservedthegreatestamountofcold。
  *Sincetheexplanationinpage109[Chapter5Paragraph5]wasprinted,Ihavebeenpleasedtoseethesameexplanationgivenbythepopularastronomerandnaturalphilosopher,MBabinet,inreferencetotheclimateofFranceItisquotedfromaletterofacorrespondentofthe`Times’inParis:
  “InthenormalmeteorologicalstateofFranceandEurope,thewestwind,whichisthecounter-currentofthetrade-windsthatconstantlyblowfromtheeastunderthetropics
  thewestwind,Isay,afterhavingtouchedFranceandEuropebythewesternshores,re-descendsbyMarseillesandtheMediterranean,ConstantinopleandtheArchipelago,AstrakanandtheCaspianSea,inordertomergeagainintothegreatcircuitofthegeneralwinds,andbethuscarriedagainintotheequatorialcurrent。
  Wheneverthesemassesofair,impregnatedwithhumidityduringtheirpassageovertheocean,meetwithanobstacle,suchasachainofmountains,forexample,theyslideuptheacclivity,and,whentheyreachthecrest,findthemselvesrelievedfromaportionofthecolumnofairwhichpresseduponthem。
  Thus,dilatingbyreasonoftheirelasticity,theycauseaconsiderabledegreeofcold,andaprecipitationofhumidityintheformoffogs,clouds,rain,orsnowAsimilareffectoccurswhateverbetheobstacletheyfindintheirwayNowthisiswhathadgraduallytakenplacebefore1856Bysomecauseorotherconnectedwiththecurrentsoftheatmosphere,thewarmcurrentfromthewesthadannuallyascendednorthward,sothat,insteadofpassingthroughFrance,itcamefromtheBalticandthenorthofGermany,thusmomentarilydisturbingtheordinarylawofthetemperaturesofEurope。
  Butin1856asuddenchangeoccurredThewesterncurrentagainpassed,asbefore,throughthecentreofFranceItmetwithanobstacleintheairwhichhadnotyetfounditsusualoutlettowardthewestandsouth。
  Henceastoppage,arising,aconsequentdilationandfalloftemperature,extraordinaryrainsandinundationsBut,nowthatthenaturalstateofthingsisrestored,nothingappearstoprognosticatethereturnofsimilardisastersWerethewesterncurrentfoundannuallytomovefurthernorth,wemightagainexperiencemeteorologicaleffectssimilartothoseof1856Hencetheregularseasonsmaybeconsideredre-establishedinFranceforseveralyearstocome。
  TheimportantmeteorologicalcommunicationswhichtheImperialObservatoryisdailyestablishingwiththeothercountriesofEurope,andtheintroductionofapparatusformeasuringthevelocityoftheaerialcurrentsandprevailingwinds,willsoonaffordprognosticssufficientlycertaintoenableanenlightenedgovernmenttoprovideintimeagainstfutureevils。”
  AftercrossingtheNorthernLotembwawemetapartyofthepeopleofKangenke,whohadtreateduskindlyonourwaytothenorth,andsenthimarobeofstripedcalico,withanexplanationofthereasonfornotreturningthroughhisvillageWethenwentontotheLakeDilolo。
  Itisafinesheetofwater,sixoreightmileslong,andoneortwobroad,andsomewhatofatriangularshapeAbranchproceedsfromoneoftheangles,andflowsintotheSouthernLotembwaThoughlaboringunderfever,thesightofthebluewaters,andthewaveslashingtheshore,hadamostsoothinginfluenceonthemind,aftersomuchoflifeless,flat,andgloomyforestTheheartyearnedforthevividimpressionswhicharealwayscreatedbythesightofthebroadexpanseofthegrandoldocean。
  Thathaslifeinit;buttheflatuniformitiesoverwhichwehadroamedmademefeelasifburiedaliveWefoundMoeneDiloloLordoftheLake
  afat,jollyfellow,wholamentedthatwhentheyhadnostrangerstheyhadplentyofbeer,andalwaysnonewhentheycameHegaveusahandsomepresentofmealandputridbuffalo’sfleshMeatcannotbetoofargoneforthem,asitisusedonlyinsmallquantities,asasaucetotheirtastelessmanioc。
  Theywereatthistimehuntingantelopes,inordertosendtheskinsasatributetoMatiamvoGreatquantitiesoffisharecaughtinthelake;
  andnumbersofyoungwater-fowlarenowfoundinthenestsamongthereeds。
  Ourprogresshadalwaysbeenslow,andIfoundthatourrateoftravelingcouldonlybefivehoursadayforfivesuccessivedaysOnthesixth,bothmenandoxenshowedsymptomsofknockingupWeneverexceededtwoandahalforthreemilesanhourinastraightline,thoughallwereanxioustogethomeThedifferenceintherateoftravelingbetweenourselvesandtheslave-traderswasourhavingaratherquickerstep,alongerday’sjourney,andtwentytravelingdaysamonthinsteadoftheirtenWhenoneofmymenbecameill,butstillcouldwalk,otherspartedhisluggageamongthem;yetwehadoftentostoponedayaweek,besidesSundays,simplyforthesakeofrestThelatitudeofLakeDilolois11d32’1“S。,long22d27’E。
  JUNE14THWereachedthecollectionofstragglingvillagesoverwhichKatemarules,andwerethankfultoseeoldfamiliarfacesagain。
  Shakatwalaperformedthepartofachiefbybringingforthabundantsuppliesoffoodinhismaster’snameHeinformedusthatKatema,too,wasouthuntingskinsforMatiamvo。
  Indifferentpartsofthiscountry,weremarkedthatwhenoldfriendswereinquiredfor,thereplywas,“Bahola“Theyaregettingbetter;
  orifthepeopleofavillagewereinquiredfor,theanswerwas,“Theyarerecovering。”asifsicknesswasquiteacommonthing。
  Indeed,manywithwhomwehadmadeacquaintanceingoingnorthwenowfoundwereintheirgravesOnthe15thKatemacamehomefromhishunting,havingheardofourarrivalHedesiredmetorestmyselfandeatabundantly,for,beingagreatman,Imustfeeltired;andhetookgoodcaretogivethemeansofdoingsoAllthepeopleinthesepartsareexceedinglykindandliberalwiththeirfood,andKatemawasnotbehindhand。
  Whenhevisitedourencampment,Ipresentedhimwithacloakofredbaize,ornamentedwithgoldtinsel,whichcostthirtyshillings,accordingtothepromiseIhadmadeingoingtoLonda;alsoacottonrobe,bothlargeandsmallbeads,anironspoon,andatinpannikincontainingaquarterofapoundofpowderHeseemedgreatlypleasedwiththeliberalityshown,andassuredmethatthewaywasmine,andthatnooneshouldmolestmeinitifhecouldhelpit。
  WewereinformedbyShakatwalathatthechiefneverusedanypartofapresentbeforemakinganofferofittohismother,orthedepartedspirittowhomheprayedKatemaaskedifIcouldnotmakeadressforhimliketheoneIwore,sothathemightappearasawhitemanwhenanystrangervisitedhimOneofthecouncilors,imaginingthatheoughttosecondthisbybegging,Katemacheckedhimbysaying,“Whateverstrangersgive,beitlittleormuch,Ialwaysreceiveitwiththankfulness,andnevertroublethemformore。”Ondeparting,hemountedontheshouldersofhisspokesman,asthemostdignifiedmodeofretiringThespokesmanbeingaslenderman,andthechiefsixfeethigh,andstoutinproportion,therewouldhavebeenabreak-downhadhenotbeenaccustomedtoitWewereverymuchpleasedwithKatema;
  andnextdayhepresenteduswithacow,thatwemightenjoytheabundantsuppliesofmealhehadgivenwithgoodanimalfood。
  Hethendepartedforthehunting-ground,afterassuringmethatthetownandeverythinginitweremine,andthathisfactotum,Shakatwala,wouldremainandattendtoeverywant,andalsoconductustotheLeeba。
  OnattemptingtoslaughterthecowKatemahadgiven,wefoundtheherdaswildasbuffaloes;andoneofmymenhavingonlywoundedit,theyfledmanymilesintotheforest,andwerewithgreatdifficultybroughtbackEventheherdsmanwasafraidtogonearthem。
  Themajorityofthemwerewhite,andtheywereallbeautifulanimals。
  Afterhuntingitfortwodaysitwasdispatchedatlastbyanotherball。
  Herewesawaflockofjackdaws,araresightinLonda,busywiththegrubsinthevalley,whichareeatenbythepeopletoo。
  LeavingKatema’stownonthe19th,andproceedingfourmilestotheeastward,wefordedthesouthernbranchofLakeDiloloWefounditamileandaquarterbroad;and,asitflowsintotheLotembwa,thelakewouldseemtobeadrainofthesurroundingflats,andtopartakeofthecharacterofafountainThefordwaswaist-deep,andverydifficult,fromthemassesofarumandrushesthroughwhichwewadedGoingtotheeastwardaboutthreemiles,wecametotheSouthernLotembwaitself,runninginavalleytwomilesbroad。
  Itishereeightyorninetyyardswide,andcontainsnumerousislandscoveredwithdensesylvanvegetationIntherainyseasonthevalleyisflooded,andasthewatersdryupgreatmultitudesoffisharecaught。
  Thishappensveryextensivelyoverthecountry,andfishing-weirsaremetwitheverywhereAspeciesofsmallfish,aboutthesizeoftheminnow,iscaughtinbagfulsanddriedinthesunThetasteisapungentaromaticbitter,anditwaspartakenoffreelybymypeople,althoughtheyhadnevermetwithitbeforeOnmanyofthepathswhichhadbeenfloodedanastysortofslimeofdecayedvegetablematterisleftbehind,andmuchsicknessprevailsduringthedryingupofthewater。
  WedidnotfindourfriendMozinkwaathispleasanthomeontheLokaloeje;
  hiswifewasdead,andhehadremovedelsewhereHefollowedussomedistance,butourreappearanceseemedtostiruphissorrows。
  Wefoundthepontoonatthevillageinwhichweleftit。
  Ithadbeencarefullypreserved,butamousehadeatenaholeinitandrenderedituseless。
  WetraversedtheextendedplainonthenorthbankoftheLeeba,andcrossedthisriveralittlefartheronatKanyonke’svillage,whichisabouttwentymileswestofthePerihills,ourformerford。
  ThefirststagebeyondtheLeebawasattherivuletLoamba,bythevillageofChebende,nephewofShinte;andnextdaywemetChebendehimselfreturningfromthefuneralofSamoana,hisfather。
  Hewasthinandhaggard-lookingcomparedtowhathehadbeenbefore,theprobableeffectoftheorgiesinwhichhehadbeenengaged。
  PitsaneandMohorisi,havingconcoctedtheprojectofaMakololovillageonthebanksoftheLeeba,asanapproachtothewhiteman’smarket,spoketoChebende,asaninfluentialman,onthesubject,buthecautiouslyavoidedexpressinganopinionTheideawhichhadsprungupintheirownmindsofanestablishmentsomewhereneartheconfluenceoftheLeebaandLeeambye,commendeditselftomyjudgmentatthetimeasageographicallysuitablepointforcivilizationandcommerce。
  TherightbankoftheLeebathereisneverflooded;andfromthatpointthereiscommunicationbymeansofcanoestothecountryoftheKanyika,andalsotoCazembeandbeyond,withbutoneortwolargewaterfallsbetween。
  ThereisnoobstructiondowntotheBarotsevalley;andthereisprobablycanoenavigationdowntheKafueorBashukulompoRiver,thoughitisreportedtocontainmanycataractsItflowsthroughafertilecountry,wellpeopledwithBamasasa,whocultivatethenativeproducelargely。
  Asthiswasthemiddleofwinter,itmaybementionedthatthetemperatureofthewaterinthemorningwas47Deg。,andthatoftheair50Deg。,which,beingloadedwithmoisture,wasverycoldtothefeelingsYetthesunwasveryhotbyday,andthetemperatureinthecoolestshadefrom88Degto90Deg。;
  intheeveningsfrom76Degto78Deg。
  BeforereachingthetownofShintewepassedthroughmanylargevillagesoftheBalobale,whohavefledfromthechiefKangenkeTheMambarifromBihecomeconstantlytohimfortrade;and,ashesellshispeople,greatnumbersofthemescapetoShinteandKatema,whorefusetogivethemup。