首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第71章
  Theclayeysoilformedbythedisintegrationofthemicaschistandtrapisthefavoritesoilforthecoffee;anditisonthesemountainsides,andotherspossessingasimilarredclaysoil,thatthisplanthaspropagateditselfsowidelyThemeadow-landsadjacenttotheSenzaandCoanzabeingunderlaidbythatmarlytufawhichaboundstowardthecoast,andcontainingthesameshells,showthat,previoustotheelevationofthatsideofthecountry,thisregionpossessedsomedeeply-indentedbays。
  28THSEPTEMBER,KALUNGWEMBOWewerestillonthesamepathbywhichwehadcome,and,therebeingnomosquitoes,wecouldnowbetterenjoythesceneryRangesofhillsoccupybothsidesofourpath,andthefinelevelroadisadornedwithabeautifulredflowernamedBolcamariaThemarketsorsleeping-placesarewellsuppliedwithprovisionsbygreatnumbersofwomen,everyoneofwhomisseenspinningcottonwithaspindleanddistaff,exactlylikethosewhichwereinuseamongtheancientEgyptiansAwomanisscarcelyeverseengoingtothefields,thoughwithapotonherhead,achildonherback,andthehoeoverhershoulder,butsheisemployedinthisway。
  Thecottonwasbroughttothemarketforsale,andIboughtapoundforapennyThiswasthepricedemanded,andprobablydoublewhattheyaskfromeachotherWesawthecottongrowingluxuriantlyallaroundthemarket-placesfromseedsdroppedaccidentally。
  Itisseenalsoaboutthenativehuts,and,sofarasIcouldlearn,itwastheAmericancotton,soinfluencedbyclimateastobeperennial。
  Wemetintheroadnativespassingwithbundlesofcops,orspindlesfullofcottonthread,andthesetheywerecarryingtootherpartstobewovenintoclothThewomenarethespinners,andthemenperformtheweavingEachwebisabout5feetlong,and15or18incheswide。
  Theloomisofthesimplestconstruction,beingnothingbuttwobeamsplacedoneovertheother,thewebstandingperpendicularly。
  Thethreadsofthewebareseparatedbymeansofathinwoodenlath,andthewoofpassedthroughbymeansofthespindleonwhichithasbeenwoundinspinning。
  ThemodeofspinningandweavinginAngola,and,indeed,throughoutSouthCentralAfrica,issoverylikethesameoccupationsinthehandsoftheancientEgyptians,thatIintroduceawoodcutfromtheinterestingworkofSirGardnerWilkinsonThelowerfiguresareengagedinspinningintherealAfricanmethod,andtheweaversintheleft-handcornerhavetheirwebintheAngolesefashion。*
  *Unfortunately,thiswoodcutcannotberepresentedinthisASCIItext。
  Thecaptionreads,`AncientSpinningandWeaving,perpetuatedinAfricaatthepresentdayFromWilkinson’s“AncientEgyptians“,p85,86。’
  Theweb,orclothontheloom,mentioned,hastheverticalthreads,orthewarp,hanging,perhapsfivefeet,fromahorizontalbeam。
  ThewoofispassedthroughfromsidetosideAL。,1997。
  Numbersofotherarticlesarebroughtforsaletothesesleeping-places。
  ThenativesmithstherecarryontheirtradeIboughttenverygoodtable-knives,madeofcountryiron,fortwopenceeach。
  Laborisextremelycheap,forIwasassuredthatevencarpenters,masons,smiths,etc。,mightbehiredforfourpenceaday,andagriculturistswouldgladlyworkforhalfthatsum。*
  *Inorderthatthereadermayunderstandthesocialpositionofthepeopleofthiscountry,IheregivethecensusofthedistrictofGolungoAltofortheyear1854,thoughthenumbersareevidentlynotallfurnished:
  Thesepeoplepossess300idol-houses,600sheep,5000goats,500oxen,398gardens,25,120hearthsTheauthoritiesfindgreatdifficultyingettingthepeopletofurnishacorrectaccountoftheirnumbers。
  Thiscensusisquotedmerelyforthepurposeofgivingageneralideaoftheemploymentsoftheinhabitants。
  ThefollowingistakenfromthecensusofIcolloiBengo,andisaddedforasimilarreason:
  3232livingwithoutthemarriagetieAllthosewhohavenotbeenmarriedbyapriestaresodistinguished。
  Thecattleinthedistrictare:10asses,401oxen,492cows,3933sheep,1699goats,909swine;andasanannualtaxisleviedofsixpenceperheadonallstock,itisprobablethatthereturnsarelessthanthereality。
  Beinganxioustoobtainsomemoreknowledgeofthisinterestingcountryanditsancientmissionaryestablishmentsthanthelineofroutebywhichwehadcomeafforded,IresolvedtovisitthetownofMassangano,whichissituatedtothesouthofGolungoAlto,andattheconfluenceoftheriversLucallaandCoanzaThisledmetopassthroughthedistrictofCazengo,whichisratherfamousfortheabundanceandexcellenceofitscoffeeExtensivecoffeeplantationswerefoundtoexistonthesidesoftheseveralloftymountainsthatcomposethisdistrictTheywerenotplantedbythePortuguese。
  TheJesuitandothermissionariesareknowntohavebroughtsomeofthefineoldMochaseed,andthesehavepropagatedthemselvesfarandwide;hencetheexcellenceoftheAngolacoffee。
  Somehaveassertedthat,asnewplantationswereconstantlydiscoveredevenduringtheperiodofourvisit,thecoffee-treewasindigenous;
  butthefactthatpine-apples,bananas,yams,orange-trees,custardapple-trees,pitangas,guavas,andotherSouthAmericantrees,werefoundbymeinthesamelocalitieswiththerecently-discoveredcoffee,wouldseemtoindicatethatallforeigntreesmusthavebeenintroducedbythesameagencyItisknownthattheJesuitsalsointroducedmanyothertreesforthesakeoftheirtimberaloneNumbersofthesehavespreadoverthecountry,somehaveprobablydiedout,andothersfailedtospread,likealonelyspecimenwhichstandsinwhatwastheBotanicGardenofLoanda,and,thoughmostusefulinyieldingasubstituteforfrankincense,istheonlyoneofthekindinAfrica。
  Acircumstancewhichwouldfacilitatetheextensivepropagationofthecoffeeontheproperclaysoilisthis:Theseed,whenburiedbeneaththesoil,generallydies,whilethatwhichissownbroadcast,withnocoveringexcepttheshadeofthetrees,vegetatesreadilyTheagentinsowinginthiscaseisabird,whicheatstheouterrind,andthrowsthekernelonthegroundThisplantcannotbearthedirectraysofthesun;
  consequently,whenanumberofthetreesarediscoveredintheforest,allthatisnecessaryistoclearawaythebrushwood,andleaveasmanyofthetallforest-treesaswillaffordgoodshadetothecoffee-plantsbelowThefortunatediscovererhasthenaflourishingcoffeeplantation。
  Thisdistrict,smallthoughitbe,havingonlyapopulationof13,822,ofwhomtenonlyarewhite,neverthelessyieldsanannualtributetothegovernmentofthirteenhundredcottoncloths,each5feetby18or20inches,oftheirowngrowthandmanufacture。
  AccompaniedbythecommandantofCazengo,whowaswellacquaintedwiththispartofthecountry,IproceededinacanoedowntheRiverLucallatoMassanganoThisriverisabout85yardswide,andnavigableforcanoesfromitsconfluencewiththeCoanzatoaboutsixmilesabovethepointwhereitreceivestheLuinhaNearthislatterpointstandthestrong,massiveruinsofanironfoundry,erectedinthetimes1768andbytheorderofthefamousMarquisofPombal。
  Thewholeofthebuildingswereconstructedofstone,cementedwithoilandlimeThedamforwater-powerwasmadeofthesamematerials,and27feethighThishadbeenbrokenthroughbyaflood,andsolidblocks,manyyardsinlength,werecarrieddownthestream,affordinganinstructiveexampleofthetransportingpowerofwater。
  Therewasnothingintheappearanceoftheplacetoindicateunhealthiness;
  buteightSpanishandSwedishworkmen,beingbroughthitherforthepurposeofinstructingthenativesintheartofsmeltingiron,soonfellvictimstodiseaseand“irregularities“Theeffortofthemarquistoimprovethemodeofmanufacturingironwasthusrenderedabortive。
  Laborandsubsistenceare,however,soverycheapthatalmostanyamountofworkcanbeexecuted,atacostthatrendersexpensiveestablishmentsunnecessary。
  Apartyofnativeminersandsmithsisstillkeptintheemploymentofthegovernment,who,workingtherichblackmagneticironore,produceforthegovernmentfrom480to500barsofgoodmalleableironeverymonthTheyaresupportedbytheappropriationofafewthousandsofasmallfresh-waterfish,called“Cacusu“,aportionofthetaxlevieduponthefishermenoftheCoanzaThisfishissomuchrelishedinthecountrythatthosewhodonotwishtoeatthemcaneasilyconvertthemintomoney。
  ThecommandantofthedistrictofMassangano,forinstance,hasarighttoadishofthreehundredeverymorning,aspartofhissalary。
  Shell-fisharealsofoundintheCoanza,andthe“Peixemulher“,orwoman-fishofthePortuguese,whichisprobablyaManatee。
  ThebanksoftheLucallaareverypretty,wellplantedwithorange-trees,bananas,andthepalm`ElaeisGuineensis’whichyieldstheoilofcommerce。
  Largeplantationsofmaize,manioc,andtobaccoareseenalongbothbanks,whichareenlivenedbythefrequentappearanceofnativehousesimbosomedindenseshadygroves,withlittleboysandgirlsplayingaboutthemThebanksaresteep,thewaterhavingcutoutitsbedindarkredalluvialsoilBeforeeverycottageasmallstageiserected,towhichtheinhabitantsmaydescendtodrawwaterwithoutdangerfromthealligatorsSomehavealittlepalisademadeinthewaterforsafetyfromthesereptiles,andothersusetheshellofthefruitofthebaobab-treeattachedtoapoleabouttenfeetlong,withwhich,whilestandingonthehighbank,theymaydrawwaterwithoutfearofaccident。
  Manyclimbingplantsrunuptheloftysilk,cotton,andbaobabtrees,andhangtheirbeautifulflowersingayfestoonsonthebranches。
  AsweapproachMassangano,thelandonbothbanksoftheLucallabecomesverylevel,andlargeportionsareleftmarshyaftertheannualfloods;
  butallisveryfertileAsanillustrationofthestrengthofthesoil,Imaystatethatwesawtobacco-plantsingardensneartheconfluenceeightfeethigh,andeachplanthadthirty-sixleaves,whichwereeighteenincheslongbysixoreightinchesbroad。
  ButitisnotapastoraldistrictInourdescentweobservedthetsetse,andconsequentlythepeoplehadnodomesticanimalssavegoats。
  WefoundthetownofMassanganoonatongueofratherhighland,formedbytheleftbankoftheLucallaandrightbankoftheCoanza,andreceivedtruePortuguesehospitalityfromSenhorLubata。
  Thetownhasmorethanathousandinhabitants;thedistricthas28,063,withonly315slavesItstandsonamoundofcalcareoustufa,containinggreatnumbersoffossilshells,themostrecentofwhichresemblethosefoundinthemarlytufaclosetothecoast。
  Thefortstandsonthesouthsideofthetown,onahighperpendicularbankoverhangingtheCoanzaThisriverishereanoblestream,aboutahundredandfiftyyardswide,admittingnavigationinlargecanoesfromthebaratitsmouthtoCambambe,somethirtymilesabovethistown。
  There,afinewaterfallhindersfartherascentTenortwelvelargecanoesladenwithcountryproducepassMassanganoeverydayFourgalleonswereconstructedhereaslongagoas1650,whichmusthavebeenofgoodsize,fortheycrossedtheoceantoRioJaneiro。
  Massanganodistrictiswelladaptedforsugarandrice,whileCambambeisaverysuperiorfieldforcotton;butthebaratthemouthoftheCoanzawouldpreventtheapproachofasteamerintothisdesirableregion,thoughasmallonecouldplyonitwitheasewhenonceinItisprobablethattheobjectsofthosewhoattemptedtomakeacanalfromCalumbotoLoandawerenotmerelytosupplythatcitywithfreshwater,buttoaffordfacilitiesfortransportationTheremainsofthecanalshowittohavebeenmadeonascalesuitedfortheCoanzacanoes。
  ThePortuguesebegananotheronasmallerscalein1811,and,afterthreeyears’labor,hadfinishedonly6000yards。
  Nothinggreatorusefulwilleverbeeffectedheresolongasmencomemerelytogetrich,andthenreturntoPortugal。
  ThelatitudeofthetownandfortofMassanganois9d37’46“S。,beingnearlythesameasthatofCassangeThecountrybetweenLoandaandthispointbeingcomparativelyflat,arailroadmightbeconstructedatsmallexpense。
  ThelevelcountryisprolongedalongthenorthbankoftheCoanzatotheedgeoftheCassangebasin,andarailwaycarriedthitherwouldbeconvenientforthetransportoftheproductsoftherichdistrictsofCassange,PungoAndongo,Ambaca,Cambambe,GolungoAlto,Cazengo,Muchima,andCalumbo;inaword,thewholeofAngolaandindependenttribesadjacenttothiskingdom。
  ThePortuguesemerchantsgenerallylooktoforeignenterpriseandtotheirowngovernmentforthemeansbywhichthisameliorationmightbeeffected;but,asIalwaysstatedtothemwhenconversingonthesubject,foreigncapitalistswouldneverruntherisk,unlesstheysawtheAngolesedoingsomethingforthemselves,andthelawssoalteredthatthesubjectsofothernationsshouldenjoythesameprivilegesinthecountrywiththemselves。
  ThegovernmentofPortugalhasindeedshownawiseandliberalpolicybyitspermissionforthealienationofthecrownlandsinAngola;
  butthelawgivingiteffectissofencedroundwithlimitations,andsodelugedwithverbiage,thattoplainpeopleitseemsanythingbutastraightforwardlicensetoforeignerstobecome`bonafide’landholdersandcultivatorsofthesoilAtpresentthetollspaidonthedifferentlinesofroadsforferriesandbridgesareequaltotheinterestoflargesumsofmoney,thoughbutasmallamounthasbeenexpendedinmakingavailableroads。
  TherearetwochurchesandahospitalinruinsatMassangano;
  andtheremainsoftwoconventsarepointedout,oneofwhichissaidtohavebeenanestablishmentofblackBenedictines,which,ifsuccessful,consideringthematerialsthebrethrenhadtoworkon,musthavebeenalaboriousundertakingThereisneitherpriestnorschoolmasterinthetown,butIwaspleasedtoobserveanumberofchildrentaughtbyoneoftheinhabitants。
  ThecultivatedlandsattachedtoalltheseconventualestablishmentsinAngolaarenowrentedbythegovernmentofLoanda,andthitherthebishoplatelyremovedallthegoldandsilvervesselsbelongingtothem。