WecrossedtheLucallabymeansofalargecanoekepttherebyamanwhofarmstheferryfromthegovernment，andchargesaboutapennyperhead。
　　AfewmilesbeyondtheLucallawecametothevillageofAmbaca，animportantplaceinformertimes，butnowamerepaltryvillage，beautifullysituatedonalittleelevationinaplainsurroundedonallhandsbyloftymountainsIthasajail，andagoodhouseforthecommandant，butneitherfortnorchurch，thoughtheruinsofaplaceofworshiparestillstanding。
　　WeweremostkindlyreceivedbythecommandantofAmbaca，ArseniodeCarpo，whospokealittleEnglishHerecommendedwineformydebility，andhereItookthefirstglassofthatbeverageIhadtakeninAfrica。
　　Ifeltmuchrefreshed，andcouldthenrealizeandmeditateontheweakeningeffectsofthefeverTheywerecuriouseventomyself；
　　for，thoughIhadtriedseveraltimessinceweleftNgiototakelunarobservations，Icouldnotavoidconfusionoftimeanddistance，neithercouldIholdtheinstrumentsteady，norperformasimplecalculation；
　　hencemanyofthepositionsofthispartoftheroutewerelefttillmyreturnfromLoandaOften，ongettingupinthemornings，Ifoundmyclothingaswetfromperspirationasifithadbeendippedinwater。
　　InvainhadItriedtolearnorcollectwordsoftheBunda，ordialectspokeninAngolaIforgotthedaysoftheweekandthenamesofmycompanions，and，hadIbeenasked，Iprobablycouldnothavetoldmyown。
　　ThecomplaintitselfoccupiedmanyofmythoughtsOnedayIsupposedthatIhadgotthetruetheoryofit，andwouldcertainlycurethenextattack，whetherinmyselforcompanions；butsomenewsymptomswouldappear，andscatterallthefinespeculationswhichhadsprungup，withextraordinaryfertility，inonedepartmentofmybrain。
　　Thisdistrictissaidtocontainupwardof40，000souls。
　　SometenortwelvemilestothenorthofthevillageofAmbacathereoncestoodthemissionarystationofCahenda，anditisnowquiteastonishingtoobservethegreatnumberswhocanreadandwriteinthisdistrict。
　　ThisisthefruitofthelaborsoftheJesuitandCapuchinmissionaries，fortheytaughtthepeopleofAmbaca；andeversincetheexpulsionoftheteachersbytheMarquisofPombal，thenativeshavecontinuedtoteacheachotherThesedevotedmenarestillheldinhighestimationthroughoutthecountrytothisday。
　　AllspeakwellofthemospadresJesuitas；and，nowthattheyaregonefromthislowersphere，IcouldnothelpwishingthattheseourRomanCatholicfellow-ChristianshadfeltittobetheirdutytogivethepeopletheBible，tobealighttotheirfeetwhenthegoodmenthemselvesweregone。
　　Whensleepinginthehouseofthecommandant，aninsect，wellknowninthesoutherncountrybythenameTampan，bitmyfoot。
　　Itisakindoftick，andchoosesbypreferencethepartsbetweenthefingersortoesforinflictingitsbiteItisseenfromthesizeofapin’sheadtothatofapea，andiscommoninallthenativehutsinthiscountryItsuckstheblooduntilquitefull，andisthenofadarkbluecolor，anditsskinsotoughandyieldingthatitisimpossibletoburstitbyanyamountofsqueezingwiththefingers。
　　Ihadfelttheeffectsofitsbiteinformeryears，andeschewedallnativehutseverafter；butasIwashereagainassailedinaEuropeanhouse，Ishalldetailtheeffectsofthebite。
　　Theseareatinglingsensationofmingledpainanditching，whichcommencesascendingthelimbuntilthepoisonimbibedreachestheabdomen，whereitsooncausesviolentvomitingandpurging。
　　Wheretheseeffectsdonotfollow，aswefoundafterwardatTete，feversetsin；andIwasassuredbyintelligentPortuguesetherethatdeathhassometimesbeentheresultofthisfever。
　　TheanxietymyfriendsatTetemanifestedtokeepmymenoutofthereachofthetampansofthevillagemadeitevidentthattheyhadseencausetodreadthisinsignificantinsect。
　　TheonlyinconvenienceIafterwardsufferedfromthisbitewasthecontinuanceofthetinglingsensationinthepointbittenforaboutaweek。
　　MAY12THAswewereabouttostartthismorning，thecommandant，SenhorArsenio，providedbreadandmeatmostbountifullyformyuseonthewaytothenextstation，andsenttwomilitiasoldiersasguides，insteadofourCassangecorporal，wholeftushereAboutmiddayweaskedforshelterfromthesuninthehouseofSenhorMellot，atZangu，and，thoughIwasunabletositandengageinconversation，Ifound，onrisingfromhiscouch，thathehadatonceproceededtocookafowlformyuse；andatpartinghegavemeaglassofwine，whichpreventedtheviolentfitofshiveringIexpectedthatafternoon。
　　TheuniversalhospitalityofthePortuguesewasmostgratifying，asitwasquiteunexpected；andevennow，asIcopymyjournal，Irememberitallwithaglowofgratitude。
　　WespentSunday，the14thofMay，atCabinda，whichisoneofthestationsofthesub-commandants，whoareplacedatdifferentpointsineachdistrictofAngolaasassistantsofthehead-commandant，orchefe。
　　Itissituatedinabeautifulglen，andsurroundedbyplantationsofbananasandmaniocThecountrywasgraduallybecomingmorepicturesquethefartherweproceededwestTherangesofloftybluemountainsofLibollo，which，incomingtowardAmbaca，wehadseenthirtyorfortymilestooursouth，werenowshutfromourviewbyothersnearerathand，andthegrayrangesofCahendaandKiwe，which，whilewewereinAmbaca，stoodclearlydefinedeightortenmilesofftothenorth，werenowcloseuponourrightAswelookedbacktowardtheopenpastoralcountryofAmbaca，thebroadgreengentlyundulatingplainsseemedinahollowsurroundedonallsidesbyruggedmountains，andaswewentwestwardwewereenteringuponquiteawild-lookingmountainousdistrict，calledGolungoAlto。
　　WemetnumbersofMambariontheirwaybacktoBiheSomeofthemhadbelongedtothepartieswhichhadpenetratedasfarasLinyanti，andfoolishlyshowedtheirdispleasureattheprospectoftheMakololopreferringtogotothecoastmarketsthemselvestointrustingthemwiththeirivoryTheMambarirepeatedthetaleofthemodeinwhichthewhitemenaresaidtotrade“Theivoryisleftontheshoreintheevening，andnextmorningthesellerfindsaquantityofgoodsplacedthereinitssteadbythewhitemenwholiveinthesea。”
　　“Now。”addedtheytomymen，“howcanyouMakololotradewiththese`Mermen’？
　　Canyouenterintothesea，andtellthemtocomeashore？”
　　Itwasremarkabletohearthisidearepeatedsoneartheseaaswenowwere。
　　Mymenrepliedthattheyonlywantedtoseeforthemselves；
　　and，astheywerenowgettingsomelightonthenatureofthetradecarriedonbytheMambari，theywerehighlyamusedonperceivingthereasonswhytheMambariwouldratherhavemetthemontheZambesithansonearthesea-coast。
　　ThereissomethingsoexhilaratingtooneofHighlandbloodinbeingnearoronhighmountains，thatIforgotmyfeveraswewendedourwayamongtheloftytree-coveredmassesofmicaschistwhichformthehighlandsaroundtheromanticresidenceofthechefeofGolungoAltoLat9d8’30“S。，long15d2’E。Thewholedistrictisextremelybeautiful。
　　Thehillsareallbedeckedwithtreesofvarioushuesoffoliage，andamongthemtowersthegracefulpalm，whichyieldstheoilofcommerceformakingoursoaps，andtheintoxicatingtoddySomeclustersofhillslooklikethewavesoftheseadrivenintoanarrowopenbay，andhaveassumedthesameformasif，whenallwerechoppingupperpendicularly，theyhadsuddenlybeencongealedThecottagesofthenatives，perchedonthetopsofmanyofthehillocks，lookedasiftheownerspossessedaneyefortheromantic，buttheywereprobablyinfluencedmorebythedesiretooverlooktheirgardens，andkeeptheirfamiliesoutofthereachofthemalaria，whichissupposedtoprevailmostonthebanksofthenumerouslittlestreamswhichrunamongthehills。
　　Weweremostkindlyreceivedbythecommandant，LieutenantAntonioCantoeCastro，ayounggentlemanwhosewholesubsequentconductwillevermakemeregardhimwithgreataffectionLikeeveryotherpersonofintelligencewhomIhadmet，helamenteddeeplytheneglectwithwhichthisfinecountryhasbeentreated。
　　Thisdistrictcontainedbythelastcensus26，000hearthsorfires；
　　andiftoeachhearthwereckonfoursouls，wehaveapopulationof104，000。
　　Thenumberofcarregadorescarrierswhomaybeorderedoutatthepleasureofgovernmenttoconveymerchandisetothecoastisinthisdistrictaloneabout6000，yetthereisnogoodroadinexistence。
　　Thissystemofcompulsorycarriageofmerchandisewasadoptedinconsequenceoftheincreaseinnumbersandactivityofourcruisers，whichtookplacein1845Eachtraderwhowent，previoustothatyear，intotheinterior，inthepursuitofhiscalling，proceededontheplanofpurchasingivoryandbeeswax，andasufficientnumberofslavestocarrythesecommoditiesThewholewereintendedforexportationassoonasthetraderreachedthecoastButwhenthemorestringentmeasuresof1845
　　cameintooperation，andrenderedtheexportationofslavesalmostimpossible，therebeingnoroadsproperfortheemploymentofwheelconveyances，thisnewsystemofcompulsorycarriageofivoryandbeeswaxtothecoastwasresortedtobythegovernmentofLoandaAtraderwhorequirestwoorthreehundredcarrierstoconveyhismerchandisetothecoastnowappliestothegeneralgovernmentforaidAnorderissenttothecommandantofadistricttofurnishthenumberrequired。
　　Eachheadmanofthevillagestowhomtheorderistransmittedmustfurnishfromfivetotwentyorthirtymen，accordingtotheproportionthathispeoplebeartotheentirepopulationofthedistrict。
　　Forthisaccommodationthetradermustpayataxtothegovernmentof1000reis，oraboutthreeshillingsperloadcarried。
　　Thetraderisobligedtopaythecarrieralsothesumof50reis，orabouttwopenceaday，forhissustenanceAndasaday’sjourneyisnevermorethanfromeighttotenmiles，theexpensewhichmustbeincurredforthiscompulsorylaborisfelttobeheavybythosewhowereaccustomedtoemployslavelaboraloneYetnoefforthasbeenmadetoformagreatlineofroadforwheelcarriagesThefirstgreatwantofacountryhasnotbeenattendedto，andnodevelopmentofitsvastresourceshastakenplaceThefact，however，ofachangefromonesystemofcarriagetoanother，takeninconnectionwiththegreatdepreciationinthepriceofslavesnearthiscoast，provestheeffectivenessofoureffortsatrepressingtheslave-tradeontheocean。
　　ThelatitudeofGolungoAlto，asobservedattheresidenceofthecommandant，was9d8’30“S。，longitude15d2’EAfewdays’restwiththisexcellentyoungmanenabledmetoregainmuchofmystrength，andIcouldlookwithpleasureontheluxuriantscenerybeforehisdoor。
　　Wewerequiteshutinamonggreenhills，manyofwhichwerecultivateduptotheirtopswithmanioc，coffee，cotton，ground-nuts，bananas，pine-apples，guavas，papaws，custard-apples，pitangas，andjambos，fruitsbroughtfromSouthAmericabytheformermissionariesThehighhillsallaround，withtoweringpalmsonmanypoints，madethisspotappearmoreliketheBayofRiodeJaneiroinminiaturethananysceneIeversaw；
　　andallwhohaveseenthatconfessittobeunequaledintheworldbeside。
　　Thefertilityevidentineveryspotofthisdistrictwasquitemarveloustobehold，butIshallreservefurthernoticesofthisregiontillourreturnfromLoanda。
　　WeleftGolungoAltoonthe24thofMay，thewinterintheseparts。
　　Everyeveningcloudscomerollingingreatmassesoverthemountainsinthewest，andpealingthunderaccompaniesthefallofrainduringthenightorearlyinthemorningThecloudsgenerallyremainonthehillstillthemorningiswellspent，sothatwebecomefamiliarwithmorningmists，athingweneveroncesawatKolobengThethermometerstandsat80Degreesbyday，butsinksaslowas76Degreesbynight。
　　IngoingwestwardwecrossedseveralfinelittlegushingstreamswhichneverdryTheyuniteintheLuinhapronouncedLueenyaandLucalla。
　　Astheyflowovermanylittlecascades，theymighteasilybeturnedtogoodaccount，buttheyareallallowedtorunonidlytotheocean。
　　Wepassedthroughforestsofgigantictimber，andatanopenspacenamedCambondo，abouteightmilesfromGolungoAlto，foundnumbersofcarpentersconvertingtheseloftytreesintoplanks，inexactlythesamemanneraswasfollowedbytheillustriousRobinsonCrusoe。
　　Atreeofthreeorfourfeetindiameter，andfortyorfiftyfeetuptothenearestbranches，wasfelledItwasthencutintolengthsofafewfeet，andsplitintothickjunks，whichagainwerereducedtoplanksaninchthickbyperseveringlaborwiththeaxe。
　　Theobjectofthecarpenterswastomakelittlechests，andtheydriveaconstanttradeinthematCambondoWhenfinishedwithhinges，lock，andkey，alloftheirownmanufacture，onecostsonlyashillingandeightpenceMymenweresodelightedwiththemthattheycarriedseveralofthemontheirheadsallthewaytoLinyanti。
　　AtTrombetawewerepleasedtoobserveagreatdealoftastedisplayedbythesub-commandantinthelayingoutofhisgroundandadornmentofhishousewithflowersThistriflingincidentwasthemorepleasing，asitwasthefirstattemptatneatnessIhadseensinceleavingtheestablishmentofMozinkwainLondaRowsoftreeshadbeenplantedalongeachsideoftheroad，withpine-applesandflowersbetween。
　　ThisarrangementIhadanopportunityofseeinginseveralotherdistrictsofthiscountry，forthereisnodifficultyinraisinganyplantortreeifitisonlykeptfrombeingchokedbyweeds。