首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第67章
  WehadnotyetgotaclearideaofthenatureofTalaMungongo。
  AgentlemanofCassangedescribeditasarangeofveryhighmountains,whichitwouldtakefourhourstoclimb;so,thoughtherainandgrasshadwettedusmiserably,andIwassufferingfromanattackoffevergotwhileobservingbynightforthepositionofCassange,IeagerlycommencedtheascentThepathwassteepandslippery;
  deepgorgesappearoneachsideofit,leavingbutanarrowpathalongcertainspursofthesierraforthetraveler;butweaccomplishedtheascentinanhour,andwhenthere,foundwehadjustgotontoatable-landsimilartothatwehadleftbeforeweenteredthegreatQuangovalley。
  WehadcomeamongloftytreesagainOneofthese,bearingafruitaboutthesizeofathirty-twopounder,isnamedMononga-zambi。
  Wetookaglancebacktothisvalley,whichequalsthatoftheMississippiinfertility,andthoughtofthevastmassofmaterialwhichhadbeenscoopedoutandcarriedawayinitsformationThisnaturallyledtoreflectiononthecountlessagesrequiredforthepreviousformationanddepositionofthatsamematerialclayshale,thenoftherocks,whoseabrasionformedTHAT,untilthemindgrewgiddyinattemptingtoascendthestepswhichleadupthroughaportionoftheeternitybeforemanThedifferentepochsofgeologyarelikelandmarksinthatotherwiseshorelessseaOurownepoch,orcreation,isbutanotheraddedtothenumberofthatwonderfulserieswhichpresentsagranddisplayofthemightypowerofGod:
  everystageofprogressintheearthanditshabitantsissuchadisplay。
  SofarfromthissciencehavinganytendencytomakemenundervaluethepowerorloveofGod,itleadstotheprobabilitythattheexhibitionofmercywehaveinthegiftofhisSonmaypossiblynotbetheonlymanifestationofgracewhichhastakenplaceinthecountlessagesduringwhichworksofcreationhavebeengoingon。
  Situatedafewmilesfromtheedgeofthedescent,wefoundthevillageofTalaMungongo,andwerekindlyaccommodatedwithahousetosleepin,whichwasverywelcome,aswewereallbothwetandcold。
  WefoundthatthegreateraltitudeandtheapproachofwinterloweredthetemperaturesomuchthatmanyofmymensufferedseverelyfromcoldsAtthis,asatseveralotherPortuguesestations,theyhavebeenprovidentenoughtoerecttravelers’housesonthesameprincipleaskhansorcaravanseraisoftheEast。
  Theyarebuiltoftheusualwattleanddaub,andhavebenchesofrodsforthewayfarertomakehisbedon;alsochairs,andatable,andalargejarofwaterThesebenches,thoughfarfromluxuriouscouches,werebetterthanthegroundundertherottenfragmentsofmygipsy-tent,forwehadstillshowersoccasionally,andthedewswereveryheavy。
  Icontinuedtousethemforthesakeofthesheltertheyafforded,untilIfoundthattheywerelodgingsalsoforcertaininconvenientbedfellows。
  27THFivehours’ridethroughapleasantcountryofforestandmeadow,likethoseofLonda,broughtustoavillageofBasongo,atribelivinginsubjectiontothePortugueseWecrossedseverallittlestreams,whichwereflowinginthewesterlydirectioninwhichweweremarching,andunitetoformtheQuize,afeederoftheCoanzaTheBasongowereverycivil,asindeedallthetribeswerewhohadbeenconqueredbythePortugueseTheBasongoandBangalaareyetonlypartiallysubdued。
  Thefartherwestwegofromthis,thelessindependentwefindtheblackpopulation,untilwereachthevicinityofLoanda,wherethefreenativesarenearlyidenticalintheirfeelingstowardthegovernmentwiththeslavesButthegovernorsofAngolawiselyacceptthelimitedallegianceandtributerenderedbythemoredistanttribesasbetterthannone。
  Alltheinhabitantsofthisregion,aswellasthoseofLonda,maybecalledtruenegroes,ifthelimitationsformerlymadebeborneinmind。
  Thedarkcolor,thicklips,headselongatedbackwardandupwardandcoveredwithwool,flatnoses,withothernegropeculiarities,aregeneral;but,whilethesecharacteristicsplacetheminthetruenegrofamily,thereaderwouldimbibeawrongideaifhesupposedthatallthesefeaturescombinedareoftenmetwithinoneindividualAllhaveacertainthicknessandprominenceoflip,butmanyaremetwithineveryvillageinwhomthicknessandprojectionarenotmoremarkedthaninEuropeans。
  Allaredark,butthecolorisshadedoffindifferentindividualsfromdeepblacktolightyellowAswegowestward,weobservethelightcolorpredominatingoverthedark,andthenagain,whenwecomewithintheinfluenceofdampfromtheseaair,wefindtheshadedeepenintothegeneralblacknessofthecoastpopulation。
  Theshapeofthehead,withitswoollycrop,thoughgeneral,isnotuniversal。
  Thetribesontheeasternsideofthecontinent,astheCaffres,haveheadsfinelydevelopedandstronglyEuropeanInstancesofthiskindarefrequentlyseen,andafterIbecamesofamiliarwiththedarkcolorastoforgetitinviewingthecountenance,Iwasstruckbythestrongresemblancesomenativesboretocertainofourownnotabilities。
  TheBushmenandHottentotsareexceptionstotheseremarks,forboththeshapeoftheirheadsandgrowthofwoolarepeculiar;thelatter,forinstance,springsfromthescalpintuftswithbarespacesbetween,andwhenthecropisshort,resemblesanumberofblackpepper-cornsstuckontheskin,andveryunlikethethickfrizzlymasseswhichcovertheheadsoftheBalondaandMaraviWitheverydispositiontopayduedeferencetotheopinionsofthosewhohavemadeethnologytheirspecialstudy,IhavefeltmyselfunabletobelievethattheexaggeratedfeaturesusuallyputforthasthoseofthetypicalnegrocharacterizethemajorityofanynationofsouthCentralAfrica。
  ThemonumentsoftheancientEgyptiansseemtometoembodytheidealoftheinhabitantsofLondabetterthanthefiguresofanyworkofethnologyIhavemetwith。
  Passingthroughafine,fertile,andwell-peopledcountrytoSanza,wefoundtheQuizeRiveragaintouchingourpath,andherewehadthepleasureofseeingafieldofwheatgrowingluxuriantlywithoutirrigation。
  Theearswereupwardoffourincheslong,anobjectofgreatcuriositytomycompanions,becausetheyhadtastedmybreadatLinyanti,buthadneverbeforeseenwheatgrowingThissmallfieldwascultivatedbyMrMiland,anagreeablePortuguesemerchantHisgardenwasinteresting,asshowingwhatthelandatthiselevationiscapableofyielding;
  for,besideswheat,wesawEuropeanvegetablesinaflourishingcondition,andweafterwarddiscoveredthatthecoffee-planthaspropagateditselfoncertainspotsofthissamedistrictItmaybeseenontheheightsofTalaMungongo,ornearly300milesfromthewestcoast,whereitwasfirstintroducedbytheJesuitmissionaries。
  WespentSunday,the30thofApril,atNgio,closetothefordoftheQuizeasitcrossesourpathtofallintotheCoanzaThecountrybecomesmoreopen,butisstillabundantlyfertile,withathickcropofgrassbetweentwoandthreefeethighItisalsowellwoodedandwatered。
  VillagesofBasongoaredottedoverthelandscape,andfrequentlyasquarehouseofwattleanddaub,belongingtonativePortuguese,isplacedbesidethemforthepurposesoftradeThepeopleherepossessbothcattleandpigsThedifferentsleeping-placesonourpath,fromeighttotenmilesapart,aremarkedbyaclusterofshedsmadeofsticksandgrassThereisaconstantstreamofpeoplegoingandreturningtoandfromthecoastThegoodsarecarriedonthehead,orononeshoulder,inasortofbasketattachedtotheextremitiesoftwopolesbetweenfiveandsixfeetlong,andcalledMoteteWhenthebasketisplacedonthehead,thepolesprojectforwardhorizontally,andwhenthecarrierwishestoresthimself,heplantsthemonthegroundandtheburdenagainstatree,soheisnotobligedtoliftitupfromthegroundtothelevelofthehead。
  Itstandsagainstthetreeproppedupbythepolesatthatlevel。
  Thecarrierfrequentlyplantsthepolesontheground,andstandsholdingtheburdenuntilhehastakenbreath,thusavoidingthetroubleofplacingtheburdenonthegroundandliftingitupagain。
  Whenacompanyofthesecarriers,orourownparty,arrivesatoneofthesesleeping-places,immediatepossessionistakenofthesheds。
  Thosewhocomelate,andfindalloccupied,mustthenerectothersforthemselves;butthisisnotdifficult,forthereisnolackoflonggrass。
  Nosoonerdoanystrangersappearatthespot,thanthewomenmaybeseenemergingfromtheirvillagesbearingbasketsofmanioc-meal,roots,ground-nuts,yams,bird’s-eyepepper,andgarlicforsale。
  Calico,ofwhichwehadbroughtsomefromCassange,isthechiefmediumofexchangeWefoundthemallcivil,anditwasevident,fromtheamountoftalkingandlaughinginbargaining,thattheladiesenjoyedtheiroccupationTheymustcultivatelargely,inordertobeabletosupplytheconstantsuccessionofstrangers。
  Those,however,neartothegreatlineofroad,purchasealsomuchofthefoodfromthemoredistantvillagesforthesakeofgain。
  Pitsaneandanotherofthemenhadviolentattacksoffever,anditwasnowonder,forthedampnessandevaporationfromthegroundwasexcessiveWhenatanytimeIattemptedtogetanobservationofastar,ifthetroughofmercurywereplacedontheground,somuchmoisturewascondensedontheinsideoftheglassroofoveritthatitwaswithdifficultythereflectionofthestarcouldbeseen。
  Whenthetroughwasplacedonaboxtopreventthemoistureenteringfrombelow,somuchdewwasdepositedontheoutsideoftheroofthatitwassoonnecessary,forthesakeofdistinctvision,towipetheglassThiswouldnothavebeenofgreatconsequence,butashortexposuretothisdewwassosuretobringonafreshfever,thatIwasobligedtogiveupobservationsbynightaltogether。
  TheinsideoftheonlycoveringInowhadwasnotmuchbetter,butundertheblanketoneisnotsoliabletothechillwhichthedewproduces。
  Itwouldhaveaffordedmepleasuretohavecultivatedamoreintimateacquaintancewiththeinhabitantsofthispartofthecountry,butthevertigoproducedbyfrequentfeversmadeitasmuchasIcoulddotostickontheoxandcrawlalonginmiseryIncrossingtheLombe,myoxSinbad,intheindulgenceofhispropensitytostrikeoutanewpathforhimself,plungedoverheadintoadeephole,andsosousedmethatIwasobligedtomoveontodrymyclothing,withoutcallingontheEuropeanswholiveonthebankThisIregretted,forallthePortuguesewereverykind,and,liketheBoersplacedinsimilarcircumstances,feelitaslighttobepassedwithoutawordofsalutationButwewentontoaspotwhereorange-treeshadbeenplantedbythenativesthemselves,andwhereabundanceofthatrefreshingfruitwasexposedforsale。
  OnenteringthedistrictofAmbaca,wefoundthelandscapeenlivenedbytheappearanceofloftymountainsinthedistance,thegrasscomparativelyshort,andthewholecountryatthistimelookinggayandverdantOnourleftwesawcertainrocksofthesamenaturewiththoseofPungoAndongo,andwhichcloselyresembletheStonehengegrouponSalisburyPlain,onlythestonepillarshereareofgiganticsize。
  Thisregionisallwonderfullyfertile,famedforraisingcattle,andallkindsofagriculturalproduce,atacheaprateThesoilcontainssufficientferruginousmatter,toimpartaredtingetonearlythewholeofitItissuppliedwithagreatnumberoflittleflowingstreamswhichuniteintheLucallaThisriverdrainsAmbaca,thenfallsintotheCoanzatothesouthwestatMassangano。