Everyvillageswarmswithchildren,whoturnouttoseethewhitemanpass,andrunalongwithstrangecriesandantics;somerunuptreestogetagoodview:allareagileclimbersthroughoutLonda。
AtfriendlyvillagestheyhavescamperedalongsideourpartyformilesatatimeWeusuallymadealittlehedgearoundoursheds;
crowdsofwomencametotheentranceofit,withchildrenontheirbacks,andlongpipesintheirmouths,gazingatusforhours。
Themen,ratherthandisturbthem,crawledthroughaholeinthehedge,anditwascommontohearamaninrunningoffsaytothem,“Iamgoingtotellmymammatocomeandseethewhiteman’soxen。”
IncontinuingourW。N。Wcourse,wemetmanypartiesofnativetraders,eachcarryingsomepiecesofclothandsalt,withafewbeadstobarterforbees’-waxTheyareallarmedwithPortugueseguns,andhavecartridgeswithironballsWhenwemeetweusuallystandafewminutesTheypresentalittlesalt,andwegiveabitofox-hide,orsomeothertrifle,andthenpartwithmutualgoodwishes。
Thehideoftheoxenweslaughteredhadbeenavaluableadditiontoourresources,forwefounditinsogreatreputeforgirdlesallthroughLoandathatwecutupeveryskinintostripsabouttwoinchesbroad,andsoldthemformealandmaniocaswewentalong。
AswecamenearerAngolawefoundthemoflessvalue,asthepeopletherepossesscattlethemselves。
ThevillageontheKweelo,atwhichwespentSunday,wasthatofacivil,livelyoldman,calledSakandala,whoofferednoobjectionstoourprogress。
WefoundweshouldsoonenterontheterritoryoftheBashinjeChingeofthePortuguese,whoaremixedwithanothertribe,namedBangala,whichhavebeenatwarwiththeBabindeleorPortugueseRainsandfever,asusual,helpedtoimpedeourprogressuntilwewereputonthepathwhichleadsfromCassangeandBihetoMatiamvo,byaheadmannamedKamboela。
Thiswasawell-beatenfootpath,andsoonafterenteringuponitwemetapartyofhalf-castetradersfromBihe,whoconfirmedtheinformationwehadalreadygotofthispathleadingstraighttoCassange,throughwhichtheyhadcomeontheirwayfromBihetoCabango。
Theykindlypresentedmymenwithsometobacco,andmarveledgreatlywhentheyfoundthatIhadneverbeenabletoteachmyselftosmoke。
Onpartingwiththemwecametoatrader’sgraveThiswasmarkedbyahugeconeofsticksplacedintheformoftheroofofahut,withapalisadearounditAtanopeningonthewesternsideanuglyidolwasplaced:severalstringsofbeadsandbitsofclothwerehungaroundWelearnedthathehadbeenahalf-caste,whohaddiedonhiswaybackfromMatiamvo。
Aswewerenowalone,andsureofbeingonthewaytotheabodesofcivilization,wewentonbriskly。
Onthe30thwecametoasuddendescentfromthehighland,indentedbydeep,narrowvalleys,overwhichwehadlatelybeentraveling。
Itisgenerallysosteepthatitcanonlybedescendedatparticularpoints,andeventhereIwasobligedtodismount,thoughsoweakthatIhadtobeledbymycompanionstopreventmytopplingoverinwalkingdownItwasannoyingtofeelmyselfsohelpless,forIneverlikedtoseeaman,eithersickorwell,givingineffeminately。
BelowuslaythevalleyoftheQuangoIfyousitonthespotwhereMaryQueenofScotsviewedthebattleofLangside,andlookdownonthevaleofClyde,youmayseeinminiaturetheglorioussightwhichamuchgreaterandrichervalleypresentedtoourviewItisaboutahundredmilesbroad,clothedwithdarkforest,exceptwherethelightgreengrasscoversmeadow-landsontheQuango,whichhereandthereglancesoutinthesunasitwendsitswaytothenorthTheoppositesideofthisgreatvalleyappearslikearangeofloftymountains,andthedescentintoitaboutamile,which,measuredperpendicularly,maybefromathousandtotwelvehundredfeetEmergingfromthegloomyforestsofLonda,thismagnificentprospectmadeusallfeelasifaweighthadbeenliftedoffoureyelidsAcloudwaspassingacrossthemiddleofthevalley,fromwhichrollingthunderpealed,whileaboveallwasglorioussunlight;
andwhenwewentdowntothepartwherewesawitpassing,wefoundthataveryheavythunder-showerhadfallenunderthepathofthecloud;
andthebottomofthevalley,whichfromaboveseemedquitesmooth,wediscoveredtobeintersectedandfurrowedbygreatnumbersofdeep-cutstreamsLookingbackfrombelow,thedescentappearsastheedgeofatable-land,withnumerousindenteddellsandspursjuttingoutallalong,givingitaserratedappearance。
Boththetopandsidesofthesierraarecoveredwithtrees,butlargepatchesofthemoreperpendicularpartsarebare,andexhibittheredsoil,whichisgeneralovertheregionwehavenowentered。
Thehollowaffordsasectionofthispartofthecountry;andwefindthattheuppermoststratumistheferruginousconglomeratealreadymentioned。
Thematrixisrustofironorhydrousperoxideofironandhematite,andinitareimbeddedwater-wornpebblesofsandstoneandquartz。
AsthisistherockunderlyingthesoilofalargepartofLonda,itsformationmusthaveprecededtheworkofdenudationbyanarmofthesea,whichwashedawaytheenormousmassofmatterrequiredbeforethevalleyofCassangecouldassumeitspresentform。
Thestrataundertheconglomerateareallofredclayshaleofdifferentdegreesofhardness,themostinduratedbeingatthebottom。
Thisredclayshaleisnamed“keele“inScotland,andhasalwaysbeenconsideredasanindicationofgold;buttheonlythingwediscoveredwasthatithadgivenrisetoaveryslipperyclaysoil,sodifferentfromthatwhichwehadjustleftthatMashauana,whoalwayspridedhimselfonbeinganadeptatbalancinghimselfinthecanoeonwater,andsosureoffootonlandthathecouldaffordtoexpresscontemptforanyonelessgifted,camedowninaverysuddenandundignifiedmanner,tothedelightofallwhomhehadpreviouslyscoldedforfalling。
Herewemetwiththebambooasthickasaman’sarm,andmanynewtrees。
Others,whichwehadlostsightofsinceleavingShinte,nowreappeared;
butnothingstruckusmorethanthecomparativescragginessofthetreesinthishollowThoseonthehighlandswehadleftweretallandstraight;
heretheywerestunted,andnotbyanymeanssocloselyplantedtogether。
TheonlywayIcouldaccountforthiswasbysupposing,asthetreeswereofdifferentspecies,thatthegreateraltitudesuitedthenatureofthoseabovebetterthantheloweraltitudedidtheotherspeciesbelow。
SUNDAY,APRIL2DWerestedbesideasmallstream,andourhungerbeingnowverysevere,fromhavinglivedonmaniocalonesinceleavingIonzaPanza’s,weslaughteredoneofourfourremainingoxen。
Thepeopleofthisdistrictseemtofeelthecravingforanimalfoodasmuchaswedid,fortheyspendmuchenergyindigginglargewhitelarvaeoutofthedampsoiladjacenttotheirstreams,andusethemasarelishtotheirvegetabledietTheBashinjerefusedtosellanyfoodforthepooroldornamentsmymenhadnowtoofferWecouldgetneithermealnormanioc,butshouldhavebeencomfortablehadnottheBashinjechiefSansawepesteredusforthecustomarypresent。
Thenativetradersinformedusthatadisplayofforcewasoftennecessarybeforetheycouldpassthisman。
Sansawe,thechiefofaportionoftheBashinje,havingsenttheusualformaldemandforaman,anox,oratusk,spokeverycontemptuouslyofthepoorthingsweofferedhiminstead。
WetoldhismessengersthatthetuskswereSekeletu’s:everythingwasgoneexceptmyinstruments,whichcouldbeofnousetothemwhatever。
Oneofthembeggedsomemeat,and,whenitwasrefused,saidtomymen,“Youmayaswellgiveit,forweshalltakeallafterwehavekilledyouto-morrow。”Themorehumblywespoke,themoreinsolenttheBashinjebecame,tillatlastwewereallfeelingsavageandsulky,butcontinuedtospeakascivillyaswecould。
Theyarefondofargument,andwhenIdeniedtheirrighttodemandtributefromawhiteman,whodidnottradeinslaves,anoldwhite-headednegroputratheraposingquestion:“YouknowthatGodhasplacedchiefsamonguswhomweoughttosupportHowisitthatyou,whohaveabookthattellsyouabouthim,donotcomeforwardatoncetopaythischieftributelikeeveryoneelse?”Irepliedbyasking,“HowcouldIknowthatthiswasachief,whohadallowedmetoremainadayandahalfnearhimwithoutgivingmeanythingtoeat?”This,whichtotheuninitiatedmayseemsophistry,wastotheCentralAfricansquitearationalquestion,forheatonceadmittedthatfoodoughttohavebeensent,andaddedthatprobablyhischiefwasonlymakingitreadyforme,andthatitwouldcomesoon。
AfterbeingweariedbytalkingalldaytodifferentpartiessentbySansawe,wewerehonoredbyavisitfromhimself:heisquiteayoungman,andofratherapleasingcountenanceTherecannothavebeenmuchintercoursebetweenrealPortugueseandthesepeopleevenhere,soclosetotheQuango,forSansaweaskedmetoshowhimmyhair,onthegroundthat,thoughhehadheardofit,andsomewhitemenhadevenpassedthroughhiscountry,hehadneverseenstraighthairbefore。
Thisisquitepossible,asmostoftheslave-tradersarenotPortuguese,buthalf-castesThedifferencebetweentheirwoolandourhaircausedhimtoburstintoalaugh,andthecontrastbetweentheexposedandunexposedpartsofmyskin,whenexhibitedinevidenceofourallbeingmadeofonestockoriginally,andthechildrenofoneMaker,seemedtostrikehimwithwonder。
Ithenshowedhimmywatch,andwishedtowinmywayintohisconfidencebyconversation;but,whenabouttoexhibitmypocketcompass,hedesiredmetodesist,ashewasafraidofmywonderfulthings。
Itoldhim,ifheknewmyaimsasthetribesintheinteriordid,andasIhopedhewouldyetknowthemandme,hewouldbegladtostay,andseealsothepicturesofthemagiclantern;but,asitwasnowgettingdark,hehadevidentlygotenoughofmywitchery,andbegantousesomecharmstodispelanykindlyfeelingshemighthavefoundstealingroundhisheartHeaskedleavetogo,andwhenhispartymovedoffalittleway,hesentformyspokesman,andtoldhimthat,“ifwedidnotaddaredjacketandamantoourgiftofafewcopperringsandafewpoundsofmeat,wemustreturnbythewaywehadcome。”Isaidinreply“thatweshouldcertainlygoforwardnextday,andifhecommencedhostilities,theblamebeforeGodwouldbethatofSansawe;“andmymanaddedofhisownaccord,“Howmanywhitemenhaveyoukilledinthispath?”
whichmightbeinterpretedinto,“Youhaveneverkilledanywhiteman,andyouwillfindoursmoredifficulttomanagethanyouimagine。”
Itexpressedadetermination,whichwehadoftenrepeatedtoeachother,todieratherthanyieldoneofourpartytobeaslave。
HungerhasapowerfuleffectonthetemperWhenwehadgotagoodmealofmeat,wecouldallbearthepettyannoyancesoftheseborderersonthemorecivilizedregioninfrontwithequanimity;buthavingsufferedconsiderablyoflate,wewereallrathersouredinourfeelings,andnotunfrequentlyIoverheardmycompanionsremarkintheirowntongue,inanswertothreatsofattack,“That’swhatwewant:onlybeginthen;“
orwithclenchedteeththeywouldexclaimtoeachother,“Thesethingshavenevertraveled,anddonotknowwhatmenare。”
Theworrying,ofwhichIgiveonlyaslightsketch,hadconsiderableinfluenceonmyownmind,andmoreespeciallyasitwasimpossibletomakeanyallowancefortheBashinje,suchasIwaswillingtoawardtotheChiboque。
Theysawthatwehadnothingtogive,norwouldtheybebenefitedintheleastbyenforcingtheimpudentordertoreturnwhencewehadcome。
Theywereaddinginsulttoinjury,andthisputusallintoafightingspirit,and,asnearlyaswecouldjudge,weexpectedtobeobligedtocutourwaythroughtheBashinjenextmorning。
3DAPRILAssoonasdaydawnedwewereastir,and,settingoffinadrizzlingrain,passedclosetothevillageThisrainprobablydampedtheardoroftherobbersWe,however,expectedtobefireduponfromeveryclumpoftrees,orfromsomeoftherockyhillocksamongwhichwewerepassing;anditwasonlyaftertwohours’marchthatwebegantobreathefreely,andmymenremarked,inthankfulness,“WearechildrenofJesus。”Wecontinuedourcourse,notwithstandingtherain,acrossthebottomoftheQuangoValley,whichwefoundbrokenbyclayshalerocksjuttingout,thoughlyingnearlyhorizontallyThegrassinallthehollows,atthistimequitegreen,wasabouttwofeethigherthanmyheadwhilesittingonox-backThisgrass,wettedbytherain,actedasashower-bathononesideofourbodies;andsomedeepgullies,fullofDISCOLOREDwater,completedthecoolingprocess。
Wepassedmanyvillagesduringthisdrenching,oneofwhichpossessedaflockofsheep;andaftersixhourswecametoastandneartheRiverQuangolat9d53’S。,long18d37’E。,whichmaybecalledtheboundaryofthePortugueseclaimstoterritoryonthewestAsIhadnownochangeofclothing,Iwasgladtocowerundertheshelterofmyblanket,thankfultoGodforhisgoodnessinbringingussofarwithoutlosingoneoftheparty。
4THAPRILWewerenowonthebanksoftheQuango,ariveronehundredandfiftyyardswide,andverydeep。