首页 >出版文学> Travels and Researches in South Africa>第32章
  Itisthreeorfourhundredfeethigh,andcoveredwithtrees。
  ItsgeographicalpositionisprettyaccuratelylaiddownfromoccultationandotherobservationsImaymentionthatthevalleyonitsnorthernside,namedKandehyorKandehai,isaspicturesqueaspotasistobeseeninthispartofAfricaTheopenglade,surroundedbyforesttreesofvarioushues,hadalittlestreammeanderinginthecentre。
  Aherdofreddish-coloredantelopespallahsstoodononeside,nearalargebaobab,lookingatus,andreadytorunupthehill;
  whilegnus,tsessebes,andzebrasgazedinastonishmentattheintruders。
  Somefedcarelessly,andothersputonthepeculiarairofdispleasurewhichtheseanimalssometimesassumebeforetheyresolveonflight。
  Alargewhiterhinoceroscamealongthebottomofthevalleywithhisslowsaunteringgaitwithoutnoticingus;helookedasifhemeanttoindulgeinamudbathSeveralbuffaloes,withtheirdarkvisages,stoodunderthetreesonthesideoppositetothepallahsItbeingSunday,allwaspeace,and,fromthecircumstancesinwhichourpartywasplaced,wecouldnotbutreflectonthatsecondstageofourexistencewhichwehopewillleadusintoscenesofperfectbeauty。
  IfpardonedinthatfreewaytheBiblepromises,deathwillbeagloriousthing;buttobeconsignedtowaitfortheJudgment-day,withnothingelsetoponderonbutsinswewouldratherforget,isacheerlessprospect。
  OurBushmenwishedtoleaveus,and,astherewasnouseintryingtothwarttheseindependentgentlemen,Ipaidthem,andallowedthemtogo。
  Thepayment,however,actedasacharmonsomestrangerswhohappenedtobepresent,andinducedthemtovolunteertheiraid。
  ThegamehereaboutsisverytameKoodoosandgiraffesstoodgazingatmeasastrangeapparitionwhenIwentoutwiththeBushmen。
  Ononeoccasionalioncameatdaybreak,andwentroundandroundtheoxen。
  Icouldonlygetaglimpseofhimoccasionallyfromthewagon-box;
  but,thoughbarelythirtyyardsoff,IcouldnotgetashotHethenbegantoroaratthetopofhisvoice;buttheoxencontinuingtostandstill,hewassodisgustedthathewentoff,andcontinuedtousehisvoiceforalongtimeinthedistanceIcouldnotseethathehadamane;
  ifhehadnot,theneventhemanelessvarietycanusetheirtongues。
  Weheardothersalsoroar;and,whentheyfoundtheycouldnotfrightentheoxen,theybecameequallyangryThiswecouldobserveintheirtones。
  Aswewentnorththecountrybecameverylovely;manynewtreesappeared;
  thegrasswasgreen,andoftenhigherthanthewagons;thevinesfestoonedthetrees,amongwhichappearedtherealbanian`FicusIndica’,withitsdrop-shoots,andthewilddateandpalmyra,andseveralothertreeswhichwerenewtome;thehollowscontainedlargepatchesofwater。
  Nextcamewater-courses,nowresemblingsmallrivers,twentyyardsbroadandfourfeetdeepThefurtherwewent,thebroaderanddeeperthesebecame;theirbottomscontainedgreatnumbersofdeepholes,madebyelephantswadinginthem;
  inthesetheoxenfloundereddesperately,sothatourwagon-polebroke,compellingustoworkuptothebreastinwaterforthreehoursandahalf;
  yetIsufferednoharm。
  WeatlastcametotheSanshureh,whichpresentedanimpassablebarrier,sowedrewupunderamagnificentbaobab-tree,lat18d4’27“S。,long24d6’20“E。,andresolvedtoexploretheriverforaford。
  ThegreatquantityofwaterwehadpassedthroughwaspartoftheannualinundationoftheChobe;andthis,whichappearedalarge,deepriver,filledinmanypartswithreeds,andhavinghippopotamiinit,isonlyoneofthebranchesbywhichitsendsitssuperabundantwatertothesoutheastFromthehillN’gwaaridgeofhigherlandrunstothenortheast,andboundsitscourseinthatdirection。
  We,beingignorantofthis,wereinthevalley,andtheonlygapinthewholecountrydestituteoftsetseIncompanywiththeBushmenIexploredallthebanksoftheSanshurehtothewesttillwecameintotsetseonthatsideWewadedalongwayamongthereedsinwaterbreastdeep,butalwaysfoundabroad,deepspacefreefromvegetationandunfordable。
  Apeculiarkindoflichen,whichgrowsonthesurfaceofthesoil,becomesdetachedandfloatsonthewater,givingoutaverydisagreeableodor,likesulphuretedhydrogen,insomeofthesestagnantwaters。
  WemadesomanyattemptstogetovertheSanshureh,bothtothewestandeastofthewagon,inthehopeofreachingsomeoftheMakololoontheChobe,thatmyBushmenfriendsbecamequitetiredoftheworkBymeansofpresentsIgotthemtoremainsomedays;butatlasttheyslippedawaybynight,andIwasfaintotakeoneofthestrongestofmystillweakcompanionsandcrosstheriverinapontoon,thegiftofCaptainsCodringtonandWebb。
  Weeachcarriedsomeprovisionsandablanket,andpenetratedabouttwentymilestothewestward,inthehopeofstrikingtheChobe。
  Itwasmuchnearertousinanortherlydirection,butthiswedidnotthenknowTheplain,overwhichwesplashedthewholeofthefirstday,wascoveredwithwaterankledeep,andthickgrasswhichreachedabovethekneesIntheeveningwecametoanimmensewallofreeds,sixoreightfeethigh,withoutanyopeningadmittingofapassageWhenwetriedtoenter,thewateralwaysbecamesodeepthatwewerefaintodesist。
  Weconcludedthatwehadcometothebanksoftheriverwewereinsearchof,sowedirectedourcoursetosometreeswhichappearedinthesouth,inordertogetabedandaviewoftheadjacentlocality。
  Havingshotaleche,andmadeagloriousfire,wegotagoodcupofteaandhadacomfortablenightWhilecollectingwoodthatevening,Ifoundabird’snestconsistingofliveleavessewntogetherwiththreadsofthespider’swebNothingcouldexceedtheairinessofthisprettycontrivance;thethreadshadbeenpushedthroughsmallpuncturesandthickenedtoresembleaknot。
  IunfortunatelylostitThiswasthesecondnestIhadseenresemblingthatofthetailor-birdofIndia。
  Nextmorning,byclimbingthehighesttrees,wecouldseeafinelargesheetofwater,butsurroundedonallsidesbythesameimpenetrablebeltofreedsThisisthebroadpartoftheRiverChobe,andiscalledZabesaTwotree-coveredislandsseemedtobemuchnearertothewaterthantheshoreonwhichwewere,sowemadeanattempttogettothemfirstItwasnotthereedsalonewehadtopassthrough;apeculiarserratedgrass,whichatcertainanglescutthehandslikearazor,wasmingledwiththereed,andtheclimbingconvolvulus,withstalkswhichfeltasstrongaswhipcord,boundthemasstogetherWefeltlikepigmiesinit,andoftentheonlywaywecouldgetonwasbybothofusleaningagainstapartandbendingitdowntillwecouldstanduponitTheperspirationstreamedoffourbodies,andasthesunrosehigh,therebeingnoventilationamongthereeds,theheatwasstifling,andthewater,whichwasuptotheknees,feltagreeablyrefreshingAftersomehours’toilwereachedoneoftheislandsHerewemetanoldfriend,thebramble-bush。
  Mystrongmoleskinswerequitewornthroughattheknees,andtheleathertrowsersofmycompanionweretornandhislegsbleeding。
  Tearingmyhandkerchiefintwo,Itiedthepiecesroundmyknees,andthenencounteredanotherdifficultyWewerestillfortyorfiftyyardsfromtheclearwater,butnowwewereopposedbygreatmassesofpapyrus,whicharelikepalmsinminiature,eightortenfeethigh,andaninchandahalfindiameterThesewerelacedtogetherbytwiningconvolvulus,sostronglythattheweightofbothofuscouldnotmakewayintotheclearwaterAtlastwefortunatelyfoundapassagepreparedbyahippopotamusEagerassoonaswereachedtheislandtolookalongthevistatoclearwater,Isteppedinandfoundittookmeatonceuptotheneck。
  Returningnearlywornout,weproceededupthebankoftheChobetillwecametothepointofdepartureofthebranchSanshureh;wethenwentintheoppositedirection,ordowntheChobe,thoughfromthehighesttreeswecouldseenothingbutonevastexpanseofreed,withhereandthereatreeontheislandsThiswasahardday’swork;andwhenwecametoadesertedBayeiyehutonanant-hill,notabitofwoodoranythingelsecouldbegotforafireexceptthegrassandsticksofthedwellingitself。
  Idreadedthe“Tampans“,socommoninalloldhuts;butoutsideofitwehadthousandsofmosquitoes,andcolddewbegantobedeposited,sowewerefaintocrawlbeneathitsshelter。
  Wewereclosetothereeds,andcouldlistentothestrangesoundswhichareoftenheardthereBydayIhadseenwater-snakesputtinguptheirheadsandswimmingaboutThereweregreatnumbersofotters`Lutrainunguis’,FCuvier,whichhavemadelittlespoorsallovertheplainsinsearchofthefishes,amongthetallgrassofthesefloodedprairies;curiousbirds,too,jerkedandwriggledamongthesereedymasses,andweheardhuman-likevoicesandunearthlysounds,withsplash,guggle,jupp,asifrarefunweregoingonintheiruncouthhauntsAtonetimesomethingcamenearus,makingasplashinglikethatofacanoeorhippopotamus;
  thinkingittobetheMakololo,wegotup,listened,andshouted;
  thendischargedagunseveraltimes;butthenoisecontinuedwithoutintermissionforanhourAfteradamp,coldnightwesetto,earlyinthemorning,atourworkofexploringagain,butleftthepontooninordertolightenourlaborTheant-hillsarehereveryhigh,somethirtyfeet,andofabasesobroadthattreesgrowonthem;
  whilethelands,annuallyflooded,bearnothingbutgrass。
  Fromoneoftheseant-hillswediscoveredaninlettotheChobe;
  and,havinggonebackforthepontoon,welaunchedourselvesonadeepriver,herefromeightytoonehundredyardswideIgavemycompanionstrictinjunctionstostickbythepontoonincaseahippopotamusshouldlookatus;norwasthiscautionunnecessary,foronecameupatoursideandmadeadesperateplungeoff。
  WehadpassedoverhimThewavehemadecausedthepontoontoglidequicklyawayfromhim。
  WepaddledonfrommiddaytillsunsetTherewasnothingbutawallofreedoneachbank,andwesaweveryprospectofspendingasupperlessnightinourfloat;butjustastheshorttwilightofthesepartswascommencing,weperceivedonthenorthbankthevillageofMoremi,oneoftheMakololo,whoseacquaintanceIhadmadeonourformervisit,andwhowasnowlocatedontheislandMahontalat17d58’S。,long24d6’E。。
  Thevillagerslookedaswemaysupposepeopledowhoseeaghost,andintheirfigurativewayofspeakingsaid,“Hehasdroppedamongusfromtheclouds,yetcameridingonthebackofahippopotamus!
  WeMakololothoughtnoonecouldcrosstheChobewithoutourknowledge,butherehedropsamonguslikeabird。”
  Nextdaywereturnedincanoesacrossthefloodedlands,andfoundthat,inourabsence,themenhadallowedthecattletowanderintoaverysmallpatchofwoodtothewestcontainingthetsetse;
  thiscarelessnesscostmetenfinelargeoxenAfterremainingafewdays,someoftheheadmenoftheMakololocamedownfromLinyanti,withalargepartyofBarotse,totakeusacrosstheriver。
  Thistheydidinfinestyle,swimminganddivingamongtheoxenmorelikealligatorsthanmen,andtakingthewagonstopiecesandcarryingthemacrossonanumberofcanoeslashedtogether。
  Wewerenowamongfriends;sogoingaboutthirtymilestothenorth,inordertoavoidthestillfloodedlandsonthenorthoftheChobe,weturnedwestwardtowardLinyantilat18d17’20“S。,long23d50’9“E。,wherewearrivedonthe23dofMay,1853ThisisthecapitaltownoftheMakololo,andonlyashortdistancefromourwagon-standof1851
  lat18d20’S。,long23d50’E。。