Itisthreeorfourhundredfeethigh,andcoveredwithtrees。
ItsgeographicalpositionisprettyaccuratelylaiddownfromoccultationandotherobservationsImaymentionthatthevalleyonitsnorthernside,namedKandehyorKandehai,isaspicturesqueaspotasistobeseeninthispartofAfricaTheopenglade,surroundedbyforesttreesofvarioushues,hadalittlestreammeanderinginthecentre。
Aherdofreddish-coloredantelopespallahsstoodononeside,nearalargebaobab,lookingatus,andreadytorunupthehill;
whilegnus,tsessebes,andzebrasgazedinastonishmentattheintruders。
Somefedcarelessly,andothersputonthepeculiarairofdispleasurewhichtheseanimalssometimesassumebeforetheyresolveonflight。
Alargewhiterhinoceroscamealongthebottomofthevalleywithhisslowsaunteringgaitwithoutnoticingus;helookedasifhemeanttoindulgeinamudbathSeveralbuffaloes,withtheirdarkvisages,stoodunderthetreesonthesideoppositetothepallahsItbeingSunday,allwaspeace,and,fromthecircumstancesinwhichourpartywasplaced,wecouldnotbutreflectonthatsecondstageofourexistencewhichwehopewillleadusintoscenesofperfectbeauty。
IfpardonedinthatfreewaytheBiblepromises,deathwillbeagloriousthing;buttobeconsignedtowaitfortheJudgment-day,withnothingelsetoponderonbutsinswewouldratherforget,isacheerlessprospect。
OurBushmenwishedtoleaveus,and,astherewasnouseintryingtothwarttheseindependentgentlemen,Ipaidthem,andallowedthemtogo。
Thepayment,however,actedasacharmonsomestrangerswhohappenedtobepresent,andinducedthemtovolunteertheiraid。
ThegamehereaboutsisverytameKoodoosandgiraffesstoodgazingatmeasastrangeapparitionwhenIwentoutwiththeBushmen。
Ononeoccasionalioncameatdaybreak,andwentroundandroundtheoxen。
Icouldonlygetaglimpseofhimoccasionallyfromthewagon-box;
but,thoughbarelythirtyyardsoff,IcouldnotgetashotHethenbegantoroaratthetopofhisvoice;buttheoxencontinuingtostandstill,hewassodisgustedthathewentoff,andcontinuedtousehisvoiceforalongtimeinthedistanceIcouldnotseethathehadamane;
ifhehadnot,theneventhemanelessvarietycanusetheirtongues。
Weheardothersalsoroar;and,whentheyfoundtheycouldnotfrightentheoxen,theybecameequallyangryThiswecouldobserveintheirtones。
Aswewentnorththecountrybecameverylovely;manynewtreesappeared;
thegrasswasgreen,andoftenhigherthanthewagons;thevinesfestoonedthetrees,amongwhichappearedtherealbanian`FicusIndica’,withitsdrop-shoots,andthewilddateandpalmyra,andseveralothertreeswhichwerenewtome;thehollowscontainedlargepatchesofwater。
Nextcamewater-courses,nowresemblingsmallrivers,twentyyardsbroadandfourfeetdeepThefurtherwewent,thebroaderanddeeperthesebecame;theirbottomscontainedgreatnumbersofdeepholes,madebyelephantswadinginthem;
inthesetheoxenfloundereddesperately,sothatourwagon-polebroke,compellingustoworkuptothebreastinwaterforthreehoursandahalf;
yetIsufferednoharm。
WeatlastcametotheSanshureh,whichpresentedanimpassablebarrier,sowedrewupunderamagnificentbaobab-tree,lat18d4’27“S。,long24d6’20“E。,andresolvedtoexploretheriverforaford。
ThegreatquantityofwaterwehadpassedthroughwaspartoftheannualinundationoftheChobe;andthis,whichappearedalarge,deepriver,filledinmanypartswithreeds,andhavinghippopotamiinit,isonlyoneofthebranchesbywhichitsendsitssuperabundantwatertothesoutheastFromthehillN’gwaaridgeofhigherlandrunstothenortheast,andboundsitscourseinthatdirection。
We,beingignorantofthis,wereinthevalley,andtheonlygapinthewholecountrydestituteoftsetseIncompanywiththeBushmenIexploredallthebanksoftheSanshurehtothewesttillwecameintotsetseonthatsideWewadedalongwayamongthereedsinwaterbreastdeep,butalwaysfoundabroad,deepspacefreefromvegetationandunfordable。
Apeculiarkindoflichen,whichgrowsonthesurfaceofthesoil,becomesdetachedandfloatsonthewater,givingoutaverydisagreeableodor,likesulphuretedhydrogen,insomeofthesestagnantwaters。
WemadesomanyattemptstogetovertheSanshureh,bothtothewestandeastofthewagon,inthehopeofreachingsomeoftheMakololoontheChobe,thatmyBushmenfriendsbecamequitetiredoftheworkBymeansofpresentsIgotthemtoremainsomedays;butatlasttheyslippedawaybynight,andIwasfaintotakeoneofthestrongestofmystillweakcompanionsandcrosstheriverinapontoon,thegiftofCaptainsCodringtonandWebb。
Weeachcarriedsomeprovisionsandablanket,andpenetratedabouttwentymilestothewestward,inthehopeofstrikingtheChobe。
Itwasmuchnearertousinanortherlydirection,butthiswedidnotthenknowTheplain,overwhichwesplashedthewholeofthefirstday,wascoveredwithwaterankledeep,andthickgrasswhichreachedabovethekneesIntheeveningwecametoanimmensewallofreeds,sixoreightfeethigh,withoutanyopeningadmittingofapassageWhenwetriedtoenter,thewateralwaysbecamesodeepthatwewerefaintodesist。
Weconcludedthatwehadcometothebanksoftheriverwewereinsearchof,sowedirectedourcoursetosometreeswhichappearedinthesouth,inordertogetabedandaviewoftheadjacentlocality。
Havingshotaleche,andmadeagloriousfire,wegotagoodcupofteaandhadacomfortablenightWhilecollectingwoodthatevening,Ifoundabird’snestconsistingofliveleavessewntogetherwiththreadsofthespider’swebNothingcouldexceedtheairinessofthisprettycontrivance;thethreadshadbeenpushedthroughsmallpuncturesandthickenedtoresembleaknot。
IunfortunatelylostitThiswasthesecondnestIhadseenresemblingthatofthetailor-birdofIndia。
Nextmorning,byclimbingthehighesttrees,wecouldseeafinelargesheetofwater,butsurroundedonallsidesbythesameimpenetrablebeltofreedsThisisthebroadpartoftheRiverChobe,andiscalledZabesaTwotree-coveredislandsseemedtobemuchnearertothewaterthantheshoreonwhichwewere,sowemadeanattempttogettothemfirstItwasnotthereedsalonewehadtopassthrough;apeculiarserratedgrass,whichatcertainanglescutthehandslikearazor,wasmingledwiththereed,andtheclimbingconvolvulus,withstalkswhichfeltasstrongaswhipcord,boundthemasstogetherWefeltlikepigmiesinit,andoftentheonlywaywecouldgetonwasbybothofusleaningagainstapartandbendingitdowntillwecouldstanduponitTheperspirationstreamedoffourbodies,andasthesunrosehigh,therebeingnoventilationamongthereeds,theheatwasstifling,andthewater,whichwasuptotheknees,feltagreeablyrefreshingAftersomehours’toilwereachedoneoftheislandsHerewemetanoldfriend,thebramble-bush。
Mystrongmoleskinswerequitewornthroughattheknees,andtheleathertrowsersofmycompanionweretornandhislegsbleeding。
Tearingmyhandkerchiefintwo,Itiedthepiecesroundmyknees,andthenencounteredanotherdifficultyWewerestillfortyorfiftyyardsfromtheclearwater,butnowwewereopposedbygreatmassesofpapyrus,whicharelikepalmsinminiature,eightortenfeethigh,andaninchandahalfindiameterThesewerelacedtogetherbytwiningconvolvulus,sostronglythattheweightofbothofuscouldnotmakewayintotheclearwaterAtlastwefortunatelyfoundapassagepreparedbyahippopotamusEagerassoonaswereachedtheislandtolookalongthevistatoclearwater,Isteppedinandfoundittookmeatonceuptotheneck。
Returningnearlywornout,weproceededupthebankoftheChobetillwecametothepointofdepartureofthebranchSanshureh;wethenwentintheoppositedirection,ordowntheChobe,thoughfromthehighesttreeswecouldseenothingbutonevastexpanseofreed,withhereandthereatreeontheislandsThiswasahardday’swork;andwhenwecametoadesertedBayeiyehutonanant-hill,notabitofwoodoranythingelsecouldbegotforafireexceptthegrassandsticksofthedwellingitself。
Idreadedthe“Tampans“,socommoninalloldhuts;butoutsideofitwehadthousandsofmosquitoes,andcolddewbegantobedeposited,sowewerefaintocrawlbeneathitsshelter。
Wewereclosetothereeds,andcouldlistentothestrangesoundswhichareoftenheardthereBydayIhadseenwater-snakesputtinguptheirheadsandswimmingaboutThereweregreatnumbersofotters`Lutrainunguis’,FCuvier,whichhavemadelittlespoorsallovertheplainsinsearchofthefishes,amongthetallgrassofthesefloodedprairies;curiousbirds,too,jerkedandwriggledamongthesereedymasses,andweheardhuman-likevoicesandunearthlysounds,withsplash,guggle,jupp,asifrarefunweregoingonintheiruncouthhauntsAtonetimesomethingcamenearus,makingasplashinglikethatofacanoeorhippopotamus;
thinkingittobetheMakololo,wegotup,listened,andshouted;
thendischargedagunseveraltimes;butthenoisecontinuedwithoutintermissionforanhourAfteradamp,coldnightwesetto,earlyinthemorning,atourworkofexploringagain,butleftthepontooninordertolightenourlaborTheant-hillsarehereveryhigh,somethirtyfeet,andofabasesobroadthattreesgrowonthem;
whilethelands,annuallyflooded,bearnothingbutgrass。
Fromoneoftheseant-hillswediscoveredaninlettotheChobe;
and,havinggonebackforthepontoon,welaunchedourselvesonadeepriver,herefromeightytoonehundredyardswideIgavemycompanionstrictinjunctionstostickbythepontoonincaseahippopotamusshouldlookatus;norwasthiscautionunnecessary,foronecameupatoursideandmadeadesperateplungeoff。
WehadpassedoverhimThewavehemadecausedthepontoontoglidequicklyawayfromhim。
WepaddledonfrommiddaytillsunsetTherewasnothingbutawallofreedoneachbank,andwesaweveryprospectofspendingasupperlessnightinourfloat;butjustastheshorttwilightofthesepartswascommencing,weperceivedonthenorthbankthevillageofMoremi,oneoftheMakololo,whoseacquaintanceIhadmadeonourformervisit,andwhowasnowlocatedontheislandMahontalat17d58’S。,long24d6’E。。
Thevillagerslookedaswemaysupposepeopledowhoseeaghost,andintheirfigurativewayofspeakingsaid,“Hehasdroppedamongusfromtheclouds,yetcameridingonthebackofahippopotamus!
WeMakololothoughtnoonecouldcrosstheChobewithoutourknowledge,butherehedropsamonguslikeabird。”
Nextdaywereturnedincanoesacrossthefloodedlands,andfoundthat,inourabsence,themenhadallowedthecattletowanderintoaverysmallpatchofwoodtothewestcontainingthetsetse;
thiscarelessnesscostmetenfinelargeoxenAfterremainingafewdays,someoftheheadmenoftheMakololocamedownfromLinyanti,withalargepartyofBarotse,totakeusacrosstheriver。
Thistheydidinfinestyle,swimminganddivingamongtheoxenmorelikealligatorsthanmen,andtakingthewagonstopiecesandcarryingthemacrossonanumberofcanoeslashedtogether。
Wewerenowamongfriends;sogoingaboutthirtymilestothenorth,inordertoavoidthestillfloodedlandsonthenorthoftheChobe,weturnedwestwardtowardLinyantilat18d17’20“S。,long23d50’9“E。,wherewearrivedonthe23dofMay,1853ThisisthecapitaltownoftheMakololo,andonlyashortdistancefromourwagon-standof1851
lat18d20’S。,long23d50’E。。