Hehadbeenchargedtodeliverthemwithallspeed,butSenhorIsidorehadinthemeantimegonetoKilimane,remainedthereafortnight,andreachedSennaagainbeforethecouriercameHecouldnotpunishhim。
Wegavehimapassageinourboat,butheleftusinthewaytovisithiswife,and,“onurgentprivatebusiness。”probablygaveuptheservicealtogether,ashedidnotcometoKilimaneallthetimeIwasthereItisimpossibletodescribethemiserablestateofdecayintowhichthePortuguesepossessionsherehavesunk。
Therevenuesarenotequaltotheexpenses,andeveryofficerImettoldthesametale,thathehadnotreceivedonefarthingofpayforthelastfouryearsTheyareallforcedtoengageintradeforthesupportoftheirfamiliesSenhorMirandahadbeenactuallyengagedagainsttheenemyduringthesefouryears,andhadbeenhighlylaudedinthecommandant’sdispatchestothehomegovernment,butwhenheappliedtotheGovernorofKilimaneforpartofhisfouryears’pay,heofferedhimtwentydollarsonlyMirandaresignedhiscommissioninconsequence。
ThecommonsoldierssentoutfromPortugalreceivedsomepayincalico。
Theyallmarrynativewomen,and,thesoilbeingveryfertile,thewivesfindbutlittledifficultyinsupportingtheirhusbandsThereisnodirecttradewithPortugalAconsiderablenumberofBanians,ornativesofIndia,comeannuallyinsmallvesselswithcargoesofEnglishandIndiangoodsfromBombayItisnottobewonderedat,then,thattherehavebeenattemptsmadeoflateyearsbyspeculativePortugueseinLisbontorevivethetradeofEasternAfricabymeansofmercantilecompaniesOnewasformallyproposed,whichwasmodeledontheplanofourEastIndiaCompany;
anditwasactuallyimaginedthatalltheforts,harbors,lands,etc。,mightbedeliveredovertoacompany,whichwouldbinditselftodeveloptheresourcesofthecountry,buildschools,makeroads,improveharbors,etc。,and,afterall,leavethePortuguesetheoptionofresumingpossession。
AnotherefforthasbeenmadetoattractcommercialenterprisetothisregionbyofferinganyminingcompanypermissiontosearchfortheoresandworkthemSuchacompany,however,wouldgainbutlittleinthewayofprotectionoraidfromthegovernmentofMozambique,asthatcanbutbarelymaintainaholdonitsownsmallpossessions;
theconditionaffixedofimportingatthecompany’sowncostacertainnumberofPortuguesefromtheislandofMadeiraortheAzores,inordertoincreasethePortuguesepopulationinAfrica,isimpolitic。
TaxeswouldalsobeleviedonthemineralsexportedItisnoticeablethatallthecompanieswhichhavebeenproposedinPortugalhavethisputprominentlyinthepreamble,“andfortheabolitionoftheinhumanslave-trade。”ThisshowseitherthatthestatesmeninPortugalareenlightenedandphilanthropic,oritmaybemeantasatrapforEnglishcapitalists;IinclinetobelievetheformerIfthePortuguesereallywishtodeveloptheresourcesoftherichcountrybeyondtheirpossessions,theyoughttoinvitetheco-operationofothernationsonequaltermswiththemselvesLetthepathwayintotheinteriorbefreetoall;and,insteadofwretchedforts,withscarcelyanacreoflandaroundthemwhichcanbecalledtheirown,letrealcoloniesbemade。
If,insteadofmilitaryestablishments,wehadcivilones,andsawemigrantsgoingoutwiththeirwives,plows,andseeds,ratherthanmilitaryconvictswithbuglesandkettle-drums,wemighthopeforareturnofprosperitytoEasternAfrica。
ThevillageofSennastandsontherightbankoftheZambesi。
Therearemanyreedyislandsinfrontofit,andthereismuchbushinthecountryadjacentThesoilisfertile,butthevillage,beinginastateofruin,andhavingseveralpoolsofstagnantwater,isveryunhealthyThebottomrockistheakoseofBrongniart,orgraniticgrit,andseveralconicalhillsoftraphaveburstthroughit。
OnestandingabouthalfamilewestofthevillageiscalledBaramuana,whichhasanotherbehindit;hencethename,whichmeans“carryachildontheback“Itis300or400feethigh,andonthetoplietwodismountedcannon,whichwereusedtofrightenawaytheLandeens,who,inoneattackuponSenna,killed150oftheinhabitantsTheprospectfromBaramuanaisveryfine;below,ontheeastward,liestheZambesi,withthevillageofSenna;andsometwentyorthirtymilesbeyondstandstheloftymountainMorumbala,probably3000or4000feethigh。
Itisofanoblongshape,andfromitsphysiognomy,whichcanbedistinctlyseenwhenthesunisinthewest,isevidentlyigneous。
Onthenorthernendthereisahotsulphurousfountain,whichmyPortuguesefriendsrefusedtoallowmetovisit,becausethemountainiswellpeopled,andthemountaineersareatpresentnotfriendlywiththePortugueseTheyhaveplentyofgarden-groundandrunningwateronitssummitMyfriendsatSennadeclinedtheresponsibilityoftakingmeintodangerTothenorthofMorumbalawehaveafineviewofthemountainsoftheMaganja;theyherecomeclosetotheriver,andterminateinMorumbalaManyofthemareconical,andtheShireisreportedtoflowamongthem,andtorunontheSennasideofMorumbalabeforejoiningtheZambesiOnseeingtheconfluenceafterward,closetoalowrangeofhillsbeyondMorumbala,Ifeltinclinedtodoubtthereport,astheShiremustthenflowparallelwiththeZambesi,fromwhichMorumbalaseemsdistantonlytwentyorthirtymiles。
Allaroundtothesoutheastthecountryisflat,andcoveredwithforest,butnearSennaanumberoflittleabruptconicalhillsdiversifythescenery。
Tothewestandnorththecountryisalsoflatforest,whichgivesitasombreappearance;butjustinthehazeofthehorizonsouthwestbysouth,thererisesamountainrangeequalinheighttoMorumbala,andcalledNyamongaInacleardayanotherrangebeyondthismaybeseen,whichisGorongozo,onceastationoftheJesuitsGorongozoisfamedforitsclearcoldwatersandhealthiness,andtherearesomeinscriptionsengravedonlargesquareslabsonthetopofthemountain,whichhaveprobablybeentheworkofthefathersAsthisliesinthedirectionofadistrictbetweenManicaandSofala,whichhasbeenconjecturedtobetheOphirofKingSolomon,theideathatfirstsprangupinmymindwas,thatthesemonumentsmightbemoreancientthanthePortuguese;but,onquestioningsomepersonswhohadseenthem,IfoundthattheywereinRomancharacters,anddidnotdeserveajourneyofsixdaystoseethem。
ManicaliesthreedaysnorthwestofGorongozo,andisthebestgoldcountryknowninEasternAfricaTheonlyevidencethePortuguesehaveofitsbeingtheancientOphiris,thatatSofala,itsnearestport,piecesofwroughtgoldhavebeendugupnearthefortandinthegardensTheyalsoreporttheexistenceofhewnstonesintheneighborhood,butthesecannothavebeenabundant,forallthestonesofthefortofSofalaaresaidtohavebeenbroughtfromPortugalNativeswhomImetinthecountryofSekeletu,fromManica,orManoa,astheycallit,statethatthereareseveralcavesinthecountry,andwallsofhewnstones,whichtheybelievetohavebeenmadebytheirancestors;
andthereis,accordingtothePortuguese,asmalltribeofArabsthere,whohavebecomecompletelyliketheothernativesTworivers,theMotirikweandSabia,orSabe,runthroughtheircountryintothesea。
ThePortugueseweredrivenoutofthecountrybytheLandeens,butnowtalkofreoccupyingManica。
ThemostpleasantsightIwitnessedatSennawasthenegroesofSenhorIsidorebuildingboatsaftertheEuropeanmodel,withoutanyonetosuperintendtheiroperationsTheyhadbeeninstructedbyaEuropeanmaster,butnowgointotheforestandcutdownthemotondo-trees,laydownthekeel,fitintheribs,andmakeveryneatboatsandlaunches,valuedatfrom20Poundsto100PoundsSenhorIsidorehadsomeoftheminstructedalsoincarpentryatRioJaneiro,andtheyconstructedforhimthehandsomesthouseinKilimane,thewoodworkbeingallofcountrytrees,someofwhicharecapableofafinepolish,andverydurable。
Amedicalopinionhavingbeenaskedbythecommandantrespectingabettersiteforthevillage,which,lyingonthelowbankoftheZambesi,isveryunhealthy,IrecommendedimitationoftheJesuits,whohadchosenthehigh,healthymountainofGorongozo,andtoselectanewsiteonMorumbala,whichisperfectlyhealthy,wellwatered,andwheretheShireisdeepenoughforthepurposeofnavigationatitsbase。
Asthenextresource,IproposedremovaltotheharborofMitilone,whichisatoneofthemouthsoftheZambesi,amuchbetterportthanKilimane,andwhere,iftheymusthavethefever,theywouldbeinthewayofdoingmoregoodtothemselvesandthecountrythantheycandointheirpresentsituationHadthePortuguesepossessedthisterritoryasarealcolony,thisimportantpointwouldnothavebeenleftunoccupied;asitis,thereisnotevenanativevillageplacedattheentranceofthissplendidrivertoshowthewayin。
Onthe9thofMaysixteenofmymenwereemployedtocarrygovernmentgoodsincanoesuptoTeteTheyweremuchpleasedatgettingthiswork。
Onthe11ththewholeoftheinhabitantsofSenna,withthecommandant,accompaniedustotheboatsAvenerableoldman,sonofajudge,saidtheywereinmuchsorrowonaccountofthemiserablestateofdecayintowhichtheyhadsunk,andoftheinsolentconductofthepeopleofKisakanowinthevillageWewereabundantlysuppliedwithprovisionsbythecommandantandSenhorFerrao,andsailedpleasantlydownthebroadriverAboutthirtymilesbelowSennawepassedthemouthoftheRiverZangweonourright,whichfartherupgoesbythenameofPungwe;andaboutfivemilesfartheronourleft,closetotheendofalowrangeintowhichMorumbalamerges,wecrossedthemouthoftheShire,whichseemedtobeabout200yardsbroad。
Alittleinlandfromtheconfluencethereisanotherrebelstockade,whichwasattackedbyEnsignRebeirowiththreeEuropeansoldiers,andcaptured;theydisarmedtherebelsandthrewthegunsintothewater。
ThisensignandMirandavolunteeredtodispersethepeopleofKisakawhowereridingroughshodovertheinhabitantsofSenna;buttheofferwasdeclined,thefewrealPortuguesefearingthedisloyalhalf-castesamongwhomtheydweltSlaveryandimmoralityhaveheredonetheirwork;
nowhereelsedoestheEuropeannamestandatsolowanebb;butwhatcanbeexpected?FewPortuguesewomenareevertakentothecolonies,andhereIdidnotobservethathonorableregardfortheoffspringwhichInoticedinAngolaThesonofalategovernorofTetewaspointedouttomeintheconditionandhabitofaslave。
ThereisneitherpriestnorschoolatSenna,thoughthereareruinsofchurchesandconvents。
OnpassingtheShireweobservedgreatquantitiesoftheplantAlfacinya,alreadymentioned,floatingdownintotheZambesiItisprobablythe`Pistiastratiotes’,agigantic“duck-weed“Itwasmixedwithquantitiesofanotheraquaticplant,whichtheBarotsenamed“Njefu“,containinginthepetioleoftheleafapleasant-tastednut。
ThiswassoesteemedbySebituanethathemadeitpartofhistributefromthesubjectedtribesDrHookerkindlyinformsmethatthenjefu“isprobablyaspeciesof`Trapa’,thenutsofwhichareeateninthesouthofEuropeandinIndiaGovernmentderivesalargerevenuefromtheminKashmir,amountingto12,000Poundsperannumfor128,000ass-loads!TheancientThraciansaresaidtohaveeatenthemlargelyInthesouthofFrancetheyarecalledwater-chestnuts。”
TheexistenceoftheseplantsinsuchabundanceintheShiremayshowthatitflowsfromlargecollectionsofstillwater。
WefoundthemgrowinginallthestillbranchesandlagoonsoftheLeeambyeinthefarnorth,andtherealsowemetabeautifullittlefloatingplant,the`AzollaNilotica’,whichisfoundintheupperNile。
Theyareseldomseeninflowingstreams。
AfewmilesbeyondtheShireweleftthehillsentirely,andsailedbetweenextensiveflatsThebanksseeninthedistancearecoveredwithtreesWesleptonalargeinhabitedisland,andthencametotheentranceoftheRiverMutulatitude18d3’37“S。,longitude35d46’E。:thepointofdepartureiscalledMazaro,or“mouthoftheMutu“ThepeoplewholiveonthenortharecalledBaroro,andtheircountryBororoThewholeoftherightbankisinsubjectiontotheLandeens,who,itwasimagined,wouldlevyatributeuponus,forthistheyareaccustomedtodotopassengersIregretthatwedidnotmeetthem,for,thoughtheyarenamedCaffres,IamnotsurewhethertheyareoftheZulufamilyoroftheMashona。