Whenapersonofmuchpopularityisburied，allthesurroundingchiefssenddeputationstofireoverthegraveOnoneoccasionatTete，morethanthirtybarrelsofgunpowderwereexpendedEarlyinthemorningofthe21sttheslavesofthedeceasedlady’sbrotherwentroundthevillagemakingalamentation，anddrumswerebeatenallday，astheyareatsuchtimesamongtheheathen。
　　Thecommandantprovidedforthejourneymostabundantly，andgaveorderstoLieutenantMirandathatIshouldnotbeallowedtopayforanythingallthewaytothecoast，andsentmessagestohisfriendsSenhorsFerrao，Isidore，Asevedo，andNunes，totreatmeastheywouldhimselfFromeveryoneofthesegentlemenIamhappytoacknowledgethatIreceivedmostdisinterestedkindness，andIoughttospeakwellforeverofPortuguesehospitality。
　　Ihavenotedeachlittleactofcivilityreceived，becausesomehoworotherwehavecometoholdthePortuguesecharacterinratheralowestimation。
　　Thismayhavearisenpartlyfromthepertinacitywithwhichsomeofthemhavepursuedtheslave-trade，andpartlyfromthecontrastwhichtheynowoffertotheirillustriousancestorstheforemostnavigatorsoftheworld。
　　Ifmyspecificationoftheirkindnesseswilltendtoengenderamorerespectfulfeelingtothenation，IshallconsidermyselfwellrewardedWehadthreelargecanoesinthecompanywhichhadlatelycomeupwithgoodsfromSennaTheyaremadeverylargeandstrong，muchlargerthananyweeversawintheinterior，andmightstrikewithgreatforceagainstarockandnotbebroken。
　　Themensitatthesternwhenpaddling，andthereisusuallyalittleshedmadeoverapartofthecanoetoshadethepassengersfromthesun。
　　TheboatinwhichIwentwasfurnishedwithsuchacovering，soIsatquitecomfortably。
　　LeaveTeteandproceeddowntheRiverPasstheStockadeofBonga
　　GorgeofLupata“SpineoftheWorld“WidthofRiver
　　IslandsWarDrumatShirambaCanoeNavigationReachSenna
　　ItsruinousStateLandeenslevyFinesupontheInhabitants
　　CowardiceofnativeMilitiaStateoftheRevenueNodirectTradewithPortugalAttemptstorevivetheTradeofEasternAfrica
　　CountryroundSennaGorongozo，aJesuitStation
　　Manica，thebestGoldRegioninEasternAfricaBoat-buildingatSenna
　　OurDepartureCaptureofaRebelStockadePlantsAlfacinyaandNjefuattheConfluenceoftheShireLandeenOpinionoftheWhites
　　Mazaro，thepointreachedbyCaptainParkerHisOpinionrespectingtheNavigationoftheRiverfromthistotheOcean
　　LieutenantHoskins’RemarksonthesamesubjectFever，itsEffects
　　KindlyreceivedintotheHouseofColonelNunesatKilimane
　　ForethoughtofCaptainNollothandDrWalshJoyimbittered
　　DeepObligationstotheEarlofClarendon，etcOndevelopingResourcesoftheInteriorDesirablenessofMissionarySocietiesselectinghealthyStationsArrangementsonleavingmyMen
　　RetrospectProbableInfluenceoftheDiscoveriesonSlavery
　　SupplyofCotton，Sugar，etc。，byFreeLaborCommercialStations
　　DevelopmentoftheResourcesofAfricaaWorkofTimeSiteofKilimane
　　UnhealthinessDeathofashipwreckedCrewfromFever
　　TheCaptainsavedbyQuinineArrivalofHMBrig“Frolic“
　　AnxietyofoneofmyMentogotoEnglandRoughPassageintheBoatstotheShipSekwebu’sAlarmSailforMauritiusSekwebuonboard；
　　hebecomesinsane；drownshimselfKindnessofMajor-GeneralCMHay
　　EscapeShipwreckReachHome。
　　WeleftTeteatnoononthe22d，andintheafternoonarrivedatthegardenofSenhorAManoeldeGomez，son-in-lawandnephewofBonga。
　　TheCommandantofTetehadsentalettertotherebelBonga，statingthatheoughttotreatmekindly，andhehaddeputedhisson-in-lawtobemyhostBongaisnotatallequaltohisfatherNyaude，whowasamanofgreatabilityHeisalsoinbadodorwiththePortuguese，becausehereceivesallrunawayslavesandcriminalsHedoesnottrustthePortuguese，andisreportedtobeexcessivelysuperstitious。
　　Ifoundhisson-in-law，Manoel，extremelyfriendly，andabletoconverseinaveryintelligentmannerHewasinhisgardenwhenwearrived，butsoondressedhimselfrespectably，andgaveusagoodteaanddinner。
　　Afterabreakfastoftea，roastedeggs，andbiscuitsnextmorning，hepresentedsixfowlsandthreegoatsasprovisionsforthejourney。
　　WhenwepartedfromhimwepassedthestockadeofBongaattheconfluenceoftheLuenya，butdidnotgonearit，asheissaidtobeverysuspiciousThePortugueseadvisedmenottotakeanyobservation，astheinstrumentsmightawakenfearsinBonga’smind，butManoelsaidImightdosoifIwished；
　　hisgarden，however，beingabovetheconfluence，couldnotavailasageographicalpointTherearesomegoodhousesinthestockade。
　　Thetreesofwhichitiscomposedseemedtometobeliving，andcouldnotbeburnedItwasstrangetoseeastockademenacingthewholecommerceoftheriverinasituationwherethegunsofavesselwouldhavefullplayonit，butitisaformidableaffairforthosewhohaveonlymuskets。
　　Ononeoccasion，whenNyaudewasattackedbyKisaka，theyfoughtforweeks；
　　andthoughNyaudewasreducedtocuttinguphiscopperankletsforballs，hisenemieswerenotabletoenterthestockade。
　　Onthe24thwesailedonlyaboutthreehours，aswehaddonethedaybefore；
　　buthavingcometoasmallislandatthewesternentranceofthegorgeofLupata，whereDrLacerdaissaidtohavetakenanastronomicalobservation，andcalledittheislandofMozambique，becauseitwasbelievedtobeinthesamelatitude，or15d1’，Iwishedtoverifyhisposition，andremainedovernight：myinformantsmusthavebeenmistaken，forIfoundtheislandofMozambiqueheretobelat16d34’46“S。
　　Respectingthisrange，towhichthegorgehasgivenaname，somePortuguesewritershavestatedittobesohighthatsnowliesonitduringthewholeyear，andthatitiscomposedofmarble。
　　ItisnotsohighinappearanceastheCampsieHillswhenseenfromtheValeofClydeThewesternsideisthemostabrupt，andgivestheideaofthegreatestheight，asitrisesupperpendicularlyfromthewatersixorsevenhundredfeetAsseenfromthisisland，itiscertainlynohigherthanArthur’sSeatappearsfromPrince’sStreet，EdinburghTherockiscompactsiliciousschistofaslightlyreddishcolor，andinthinstrata；theislandonwhichwesleptlooksasiftornofffromtheoppositesideofthegorge，forthestrataaretwistedandtornineverydirectionTheeasternsideoftherangeismuchmoreslopingthanthewestern，coveredwithtrees，anddoesnotgivetheideaofaltitudesomuchasthewesternItextendsaconsiderablewayintotheMaganjacountryinthenorth，andthenbendsroundtowardtheriveragain，andendsintheloftymountainMorumbala，oppositeSennaOntheotherorsouthernsideitisstraighter，butissaidtoendinGorongozo，amountainwestofthesamepoint。
　　ThepersonwhocalledthisLupata“thespineoftheworld“
　　evidentlydidnotmeantosaythatitwasatranslationoftheword，foritmeansadefileorgorgehavingperpendicularwalls。
　　ThisrangedoesnotdeservethenameofeitherCordilleraorSpine，unlesswearewillingtobelievethattheworldhasaverysmallandverycrooked“back-bone“。
　　Wepassedthroughthegorgeintwohours，andfounditrathertortuous，andbetween200and300yardswideTheriverissaidtobeherealwaysexcessivelydeep；itseemedtomethatasteamercouldpassthroughitatfullspeedAttheeasternentranceofLupatastandtwoconicalhills；theyarecomposedofporphyry，havinglargesquarecrystalsthereinThesehillsarecalledMoendaenGoma，whichmeansafootprintofawildbeastAnotherconicalhillontheoppositebankisnamedKasisipriest，fromhavingabaldtop。
　　Wesailedonquicklywiththecurrentoftheriver，andfoundthatitspreadouttomorethantwomilesinbreadth；itis，however，fullofislands，whicharegenerallycoveredwithreeds，andwhich，previoustothewar，wereinhabited，andyieldedvastquantitiesofgrain。
　　Weusuallylandedtocookbreakfast，andthenwentonquickly。
　　Thebreadthofwaterbetweentheislandswasnowquitesufficientforasailingvesseltotack，andworkhersailsin；theprevailingwindswouldblowherupthestream；butIregrettedthatIhadnotcomewhentheriverwasatitslowestratherthanatitshighest。
　　Thetestimony，however，ofCaptainParkerandLieutenantHoskins，hereaftertobenoticed，maybeconsideredconclusiveastothecapabilitiesofthisriverforcommercialpurposes。
　　ThePortuguesestatethatthereishighwaterduringfivemonthsoftheyear，andwhenitislowthereisalwaysachannelofdeepwater。
　　Butthisisverywinding；andastheriverwearsawaysomeoftheislandsandformsothers，thecourseofthechannelisoftenaltered。
　　Isupposethatanaccuratechartofitmadeinoneyearwouldnotbeveryreliablethenext；butIbelieve，fromallthatIcanlearn，thattherivercouldbenavigatedinasmallflat-bottomedsteamerduringthewholeyearasfarasTeteAtthistimeasteameroflargesizecouldhavefloatedeasilyTheriverwasmeasuredatthelatterplacebythePortuguese，andfoundbythemtobe1050yardsbroad。
　　ThebodyofwaterflowingpastwhenIwastherewasverygreat，andthebreadthitoccupiedwhenamongtheislandshadamostimposingeffect。
　　IcouldnotgetaglimpseofeithershoreAlltherightbankbeyondLupataislowandflat：onthenorth，therangesofhillsanddarklinesbelowthemareseen，butfromtheboatitisimpossibletoseetheshore。
　　Ionlyguessthebreadthoftherivertobetwomiles；itisprobablymore。
　　NextdaywelandedatShirambaforbreakfast，havingsailed8-1/2hoursfromLupataThiswasoncetheresidenceofaPortuguesebrigadier，whospentlargesumsofmoneyinembellishinghishouseandgardens：
　　thesewefoundinentireruin，ashishalf-castesonhaddestroyedall，andthenrebelledagainstthePortuguese，butwithlesssuccessthaneitherNyaudeorKisaka，forhehadbeenseizedandsentaprisonertoMozambiqueashorttimebeforeourvisitAllthesouthernshorehasbeenravagedbytheCaffres，whoareherenamedLandeens，andmostoftheinhabitantswhoremainacknowledgetheauthorityofBonga，andnotofthePortugueseWhenatbreakfast，thepeopleofShirambacommencedbeatingthedrumofwarLieutenantMiranda，whowaswellacquaintedwiththecustomsofthecountry，immediatelystartedtohisfeet，andgotallthesoldiersofourpartyunderarms；hethendemandedofthenativeswhythedrumwasbeatenwhilewewerethereTheygaveanevasivereply；and，astheyemploythismeansofcollectingtheirneighborswhentheyintendtorobcanoes，ourwatchfulnessmayhavepreventedtheirproceedingfarther。
　　Wespentthenightofthe26thontheislandcalledNkuesi，oppositearemarkablesaddle-shapedmountain，andfoundthatwewerejustonthe17thparalleloflatitudeThesaildowntheriverwasveryfine；
　　thetemperaturebecominglow，itwaspleasanttothefeelings；
　　buttheshoresbeingflatandfarfromus，thescenerywasuninterestingWebreakfastedonthe27thatPita，andfoundsomehalf-castePortuguesehadestablishedthemselvesthere，afterfleeingfromtheoppositebanktoescapeKisaka’speople，whowerenowravagingalltheMaganjacountryOntheafternoonofthe27thwearrivedatSenna。
　　CommandantIsidore’shouse，300yardsS。Wofthemudfortonthebanksoftheriver：lat17d27’1“S。，long35d10’E。
　　WefoundSennatobetwenty-threeandahalfhours’sailfromTete。
　　Wehadthecurrententirelyinourfavor，butmetvariouspartiesinlargecanoestoilinglaboriouslyagainstitTheyuselongropes，andpulltheboatsfromtheshoreTheyusuallytakeabouttwentydaystoascendthedistancewehaddescendedinaboutfour。
　　ThewagespaidtoboatmenareconsideredhighPartofthemenwhohadaccompaniedmegladlyacceptedemploymentfromLieutenantMirandatotakealoadofgoodsinacanoefromSennatoTete。
　　IthoughtthestateofTetequitelamentable，butthatofSennawastentimesworseAtTetethereissomelife；hereeverythingisinastateofstagnationandruinThefort，builtofsun-driedbricks，hasthegrassgrowingoverthewalls，whichhavebeenpatchedinsomeplacesbypalingTheLandeensvisitthevillageperiodically，andlevyfinesupontheinhabitants，astheyconsiderthePortugueseaconqueredtribe，andveryrarelydoesanativecometotradeSenhorIsidore，thecommandant，amanofconsiderableenergy，hadproposedtosurroundthewholevillagewithpalisadesasaprotectionagainsttheLandeens，andthevillagersweretobeginthisworkthedayafterIleftItwassadtolookattheruinmanifestineverybuilding，butthehalf-castesappeartobeinleaguewiththerebelsandLandeens；forwhenanyattemptismadebythePortuguesetocoercetheenemyordefendthemselves，informationisconveyedatoncetotheLandeencamp，and，thoughthecommandantprohibitsthepaymentoftributetotheLandeens，ontheirapproachthehalf-casteseagerlyransomthemselvesWhenIwasthere，apartyofKisaka’speoplewereravagingthefinecountryontheoppositeshoreTheycamedownwiththeprisonerstheyhadcaptured，andforthwiththehalf-castesofSennawentovertobuyslaves。
　　Encouragedbythis，Kisaka’speoplecameoverintoSennafullyarmedandbeatingtheirdrums，andwerereceivedintothehouseofanativePortugueseTheyhadthevillageattheirmercy，yetcouldhavebeendrivenoffbyhalfadozenpolicemenThecommandantcouldonlylookonwithbittersorrowHehadsoldiers，itistrue，butitisnotoriousthatthenativemilitiaofbothSennaandKilimaneneverthinkofstandingtofight，butinvariablyrunaway，andleavetheirofficerstobekilledTheyarebraveonlyamongthepeaceableinhabitantsOneofthem，sentfromKilimanewithapacketoflettersorexpresses，arrivedwhileIwasatSenna。