Afterbreakfast,someofthemen,whohadgoneforwardonalittlepathwithsomefootprintsofwater-lovinganimalsuponit,returnedwiththejoyfultidingsof“metse“,water,exhibitingthemudontheirkneesinconfirmationofthenewsbeingtrueItdoesone’sheartgoodtoseethethirstyoxenrushintoapoolofdeliciousrain-water,asthiswasIntheydashuntilthewaterisdeepenoughtobenearlylevelwiththeirthroat,andthentheystanddrawingslowlyinthelong,refreshingmouthfuls,untiltheirformerlycollapsedsidesdistendasiftheywouldburstSomuchdotheyimbibe,thatasuddenjerk,whentheycomeoutonthebank,makessomeofthewaterrunoutagainfromtheirmouths;but,astheyhavebeendayswithoutfoodtoo,theyverysooncommencetograze,andofgrassthereisalwaysabundanceeverywhereThispoolwascalledMathuluani;
andthankfulweweretohaveobtainedsowelcomeasupplyofwater。
Aftergivingthecattlearestatthisspot,weproceededdownthedrybedoftheRiverMokokoThenamereferstothewater-bearingstratumbeforealludedto;andinthisancientbeditbearsenoughofwatertoadmitofpermanentwellsinseveralpartsofitWehadnowtheassurancefromRamotobithatweshouldsuffernomorefromthirst。
Twicewefoundrain-waterintheMokokobeforewereachedMokokonyani,wherethewater,generallybelowgroundelsewhere,comestothesurfaceinabedoftufaTheadjacentcountryisallcoveredwithlow,thornyscrub,withgrass,andhereandthereclumpsofthe“wait-a-bitthorn“,or`Acaciadetinens’AtLotlakanialittlereed,anotherspringthreemilesfartherdown,wemetwiththefirstPalmyratreeswhichwehadseeninSouthAfrica;theyweretwenty-sixinnumber。
TheancientMokokomusthavebeenjoinedbyotherriversbelowthis,foritbecomesverybroad,andspreadsoutintoalargelake,ofwhichthelakewewerenowinsearchofformedbutaverysmallpart。
Weobservedthat,whereveranant-eaterhadmadehishole,shellswerethrownoutwiththeearth,identicalwiththosenowaliveinthelake。
WhenwelefttheMokoko,Ramotobiseemed,forthefirsttime,tobeatalossastowhichdirectiontotakeHehadpassedonlyonceawaytothewestoftheMokoko,thescenesofhisboyhoodMrOswell,whileridinginfrontofthewagons,happenedtospyaBushwomanrunningawayinabentposition,inordertoescapeobservationThinkingittobealion,hegallopeduptoherShethoughtherselfcaptured,andbegantodeliverupherpoorlittleproperty,consistingofafewtrapsmadeofcords;
but,whenIexplainedthatweonlywantedwater,andwouldpayherifsheledustoit,sheconsentedtoconductustoaspring。
Itwasthenlateintheafternoon,butshewalkedbrisklybeforeourhorsesforeightmiles,andshowedusthewaterofNchokotsa。
Afterleadingustothewater,shewishedtogoawayhome,ifindeedshehadanyshehadfledfromapartyofhercountrymen,andwasnowlivingfarfromallotherswithherhusband
butasitwasnowdark,wewishedhertoremainAsshebelievedherselfstillacaptive,wethoughtshemightslipawaybynight;so,inorderthatsheshouldnotgoawaywiththeimpressionthatweweredishonest,wegaveherapieceofmeatandagoodlargebunchofbeads;
atthesightofthelattersheburstintoamerrylaugh,andremainedwithoutsuspicion。
AtNchokotsawecameuponthefirstofagreatnumberofsalt-pans,coveredwithanefflorescenceoflime,probablythenitrate。
Athickbeltofmopane-treesa`Bauhinia’hidesthissalt-pan,whichistwentymilesincircumference,entirelyfromtheviewofapersoncomingfromthesoutheast;and,atthetimethepanburstuponourview,thesettingsunwascastingabeautifulbluehazeoverthewhiteincrustations,makingthewholelookexactlylikealake。
Oswellthrewhishatupintheairatthesight,andshoutedoutahuzzawhichmadethepoorBushwomanandtheBakwainsthinkhimmad。
Iwasalittlebehindhim,andwasascompletelydeceivedbyitashe;
but,aswehadagreedtoalloweachothertobeholdthelakeatthesameinstant,Ifeltalittlechagrinedthathehad,unintentionally,gotthefirstglanceWehadnoideathatthelong-looked-forlakewasstillmorethanthreehundredmilesdistantOnereasonofourmistakewas,thattheRiverZougawasoftenspokenofbythesamenameasthelake,viz。,NokaeaBatletli“RiveroftheBatletli“。
ThemirageonthesesalinaswasmarvelousItisnever,Ibelieve,seeninperfection,exceptoversuchsalineincrustations。
Herenotaparticleofimaginationwasnecessaryforrealizingtheexactpictureoflargecollectionsofwater;thewavesdancedalongabove,andtheshadowsofthetreeswerevividlyreflectedbeneaththesurfaceinsuchanadmirablemanner,thattheloosecattle,whosethirsthadnotbeenslakedsufficientlybytheverybrackishwaterofNchokotsa,withthehorses,dogs,andeventheHottentotsranofftowardthedeceitfulpoolsAherdofzebrasinthemiragelookedsoexactlylikeelephantsthatOswellbegantosaddleahorseinordertohuntthem;butasortofbreakinthehazedispelledtheillusionLookingtothewestandnorthwestfromNchokotsa,wecouldseecolumnsofblacksmoke,exactlylikethosefromasteam-engine,risingtotheclouds,andwereassuredthatthesearosefromtheburningreedsoftheNokaeaBatletli。
Onthe4thofJulywewentforwardonhorsebacktowardwhatwesupposedtobethelake,andagainandagaindidweseemtoseeit;
butatlastwecametotheveritablewateroftheZouga,andfoundittobeariverrunningtotheN。EAvillageofBakurutselayontheoppositebank;theseliveamongBatletli,atribehavingaclickintheirlanguage,andwhowerefoundbySebituanetopossesslargeherdsofthegreathornedcattleTheyseemalliedtotheHottentotfamilyMrOswell,intryingtocrosstheriver,gothishorseboggedintheswampybankTwoBakwainsandImanagedtogetoverbywadingbesideafishing-weirThepeoplewerefriendly,andinformedusthatthiswatercameoutoftheNgamiThisnewsgladdenedallourhearts,forwenowfeltcertainofreachingourgoalWemight,theysaid,beamoonontheway;butwehadtheRiverZougaatourfeet,andbyfollowingitweshouldatlastreachthebroadwater。
Nextday,whenwewerequitedisposedtobefriendlywitheveryone,twooftheBamangwato,whohadbeensentonbeforeusbySekomitodriveawayalltheBushmenandBakalaharifromourpath,sothattheyshouldnotassistorguideus,cameandsatdownbyourfire。
Wehadseentheirfootstepsfreshintheway,andtheyhadwatchedourslowmovementsforward,andwonderedtoseehowwe,withoutanyBushmen,foundourwaytothewatersThiswasthefirsttimetheyhadseenRamotobi。
“Youhavereachedtherivernow。”saidthey;andwe,quitedisposedtolaughathavingwonthegame,feltnoill-willtoanyoneTheyseemedtofeelnoenmitytouseither;but,afteranapparentlyfriendlyconversation,proceededtofulfilltothelasttheinstructionsoftheirchief。
AscendingtheZougainourfront,theycirculatedthereportthatourobjectwastoplunderallthetribeslivingontheriverandlake;
butwhentheyhadgothalfwayuptheriver,theprincipalmansickenedoffever,turnedbacksomedistance,anddied。
Hisdeathhadagoodeffect,forthevillagersconnecteditwiththeinjuryhewasattemptingtodotousTheyallsawthroughSekomi’sreasonsforwishingustofailinourattempt;andthoughtheycametousatfirstarmed,kindandfairtreatmentsoonproducedperfectconfidence。
Whenwehadgoneupthebankofthisbeautifulriveraboutninety-sixmilesfromthepointwherewefirststruckit,andunderstoodthatwewerestillaconsiderabledistancefromtheNgami,weleftalltheoxenandwagons,exceptMrOswell’s,whichwasthesmallest,andoneteam,atNgabisane,inthehopethattheywouldberecruitedforthehomejourney,whilewemadeapushforthelakeTheBechuanachiefoftheLakeregion,whohadsentmentoSechele,nowsentorderstoallthepeopleontherivertoassistus,andwewerereceivedbytheBakoba,whoselanguageclearlyshowsthattheybearanaffinitytothetribesinthenorth。
TheycallthemselvesBayeiye,i。e。,men;buttheBechuanascallthemBakoba,whichcontainssomewhatoftheideaofslavesTheyhaveneverbeenknowntofight,and,indeed,haveatraditionthattheirforefathers,intheirfirstessaysatwar,madetheirbowsofthePalmaChristi,and,whenthesebroke,theygaveupfightingaltogether。
Theyhaveinvariablysubmittedtotheruleofeveryhordewhichhasoverrunthecountriesadjacenttotheriversonwhichtheyspeciallylovetodwell。
TheyarethustheQuakersofthebodypoliticinAfrica。
Alongtimeaftertheperiodofourvisit,thechiefoftheLake,thinkingtomakesoldiersofthem,tookthetroubletofurnishthemwithshields“Ah!weneverhadthesebefore;thatisthereasonwehavealwayssuccumbedNowwewillfight。”ButamaraudingpartycamefromtheMakololo,andour“Friends“atoncepaddledquickly,nightandday,downtheZouga,neverdaringtolookbehindthemtilltheyreachedtheendoftheriver,atthepointwherewefirstsawit。
Thecanoesoftheseinlandsailorsaretrulyprimitivecraft:
theyarehollowedoutofthetrunksofsingletreesbymeansofironadzes;
andifthetreehasabend,sohasthecanoeIlikedthefrankandmanlybearingofthesemen,and,insteadofsittinginthewagon,preferredaseatinoneofthecanoesIfoundtheyregardedtheirrudevesselsastheArabdoeshiscamelTheyhavealwaysfiresinthem,andprefersleepinginthemwhileonajourneytospendingthenightonshore。
“Onlandyouhavelions。”saythey,“serpents,hyaenas,andyourenemies;
butinyourcanoe,behindabankofreed,nothingcanharmyou。”
TheirsubmissivedispositionleadstotheirvillagesbeingfrequentlyvisitedbyhungrystrangersWehadapotonthefireinthecanoebytheway,andwhenwedrewnearthevillagesdevouredthecontents。
Whenfullysatisfiedourselves,Ifoundwecouldalllookuponanyintruderswithperfectcomplacency,andshowthepotinproofofhavingdevouredthelastmorsel。
Whileascendinginthiswaythebeautifully-woodedriver,wecametoalargestreamflowingintoitThiswastheRiverTamunak’le。
Iinquiredwhenceitcame“Oh,fromacountryfullofrivers
somanynoonecantelltheirnumberandfulloflargetrees。”
ThiswasthefirstconfirmationofstatementsIhadheardfromtheBakwainswhohadbeenwithSebituane,thatthecountrybeyondwasnot“thelargesandyplateau“ofthephilosophers。
Theprospectofahighwaycapableofbeingtraversedbyboatstoanentirelyunexploredandverypopulousregion,grewfromthattimeforwardstrongerandstrongerinmymind;
somuchsothat,whenweactuallycametothelake,thisideaoccupiedsuchalargeportionofmymentalvisionthattheactualdiscoveryseemedofbutlittleimportanceIfindIwrote,whentheemotionscausedbythemagnificentprospectsofthenewcountrywerefirstawakenedinmybreast,thatthey“mightsubjectmetothechargeofenthusiasm,achargewhichIwishedIdeserved,asnothinggoodorgreathadeverbeenaccomplishedintheworldwithoutit。”*
*LetterspublishedbytheRoyalGeographicalSociety。
Read11thFebruaryand8thApril,1850。