butthisfactevidentlyloosenedthecordsofthefather’sheart，andduringmystayatVegahewasdevotedtome;
　　givingmeinformationofthegreatestvalueregardingthepeople，theirhabits，theirdiseases，andthelike，muchofwhich，uptothatmoment，thecommissionanditssubordinateshadvainlyendeavoredtosecure。
　　AndhereIrecallonethingwhichstruckmeassignificant。ThisasceticFrenchpriestwasverysevereincondemnationoftheoldSpanishpriesthoodoftheisland。
　　WhenIaskedhimregardingthemoralsofthepeopleheanswered，``Howcanyouexpectgoodmoralsinthemwhentheirpastorssetsuchbadexamples？’’ItwasevidentthatthechurchauthoritiesatRomewereofhisopinion;forinnearlyeverytownIfoundnotonlyajolly，kindly，easy—goingoldSpanishpadre，surroundedby``nephews’’and``nieces，’’butamoreaustereecclesiasticrecentlyarrivedfromFranceorItaly。
　　Intheimpressionsmadeuponmebythislongandtediousjourneyacrosstheisland，pleasureandpainwereconstantlymingled。Ononehandwasthewonderfulbeautyofthescenery，theluxurianceofthevegetation，andthebracingwarmthoftheclimate，whiletheUnitedStatesweregoingthroughawintermorethanusuallybitter。
　　But，ontheotherhand，thewholeconditionofthecountryseemedtoindicatethattheearlySpanishrulershadleftacurseuponitfromwhichithadneverrecovered。
　　Itsinhabitants，inrevolutionafterrevolution，haddestroyedallindustryandindustrialappliances，andhadvirtuallyeatenupeachother;generationaftergenerationhadthusbeenalmostentirelydestroyed。
　　Finally，afternearlyafortnightofclamberingovermountains，pushingthroughtropicalthickets，fordingstreams，andnegotiatinginpalmhuts，weapproachedthesea;andsuddenly，onthenorthsideoftheisland，atthetopofthemountainbackofPuertoPlata，welookedfardownuponitsbeautifulharbor，inthemidstofwhich，likeaflyuponamirror，layourtrimlittlefrigateNantasket。
　　Thevice—presidentoftherepublic，surroundedbytherepresentativesofthecity，havingwelcomeduswiththeusualspeeches，wepushedforwardtothevice—presidentialvilla，whereIwastobelodged。
　　Havingnootherdresswithmethanmytraveler’soutfit，ofwhichthemainfeatureswereaflamingredflannelshirt，aponcho，andasombrero，andhavingbeeninvitedtodinethateveningatthehouseofmyhost，withthevariousconsulsandotherleadersoftheplace，Iorderedtwoofmymentohurrydownthemountain，andouttothefrigate，tobringinmyleathertrunkcontainingacostumemoreworthyoftheexpectedceremony;andhardlywerewecomfortablyestablishedundertheroofofthevice—president，whentwosailorscamein，bringingthepreciousburden。
　　Nowcameacatastrophe。Turningthekey，Inoticedthatthebrassfittingsofthelockwerecoveredwithverdigris，and，asthetrunkopened，Ishrankbackinhorror。Itwasfilled，apparently，withamassofmossywhite—and—
　　greenmoldfromwhichcockroachesofenormoussizedartedinalldirections。
　　Hastilypullingdownthecover，Icalledacouncilofwar;themainpersonagesinitbeingmyprivatesecretary，ProfessorCrane，sinceactingpresidentofCornellUniversity，andsundryofthemoreimportantmenintheexpedition。TotheseIexplainedthesituation。Itseemedbadenoughtoloseallmeansofpresentingasuitableappearanceattheapproachingfestivity，butthiswasnothingcomparedwiththeideathatIhadrequitedthehospitalityofmyhostbyspreadingthroughhishousethishideousentomologicalcollection。
　　ButasIexposedthislatterfeatureofthesituation，I
　　noticedasmilecomingoverthefacesofmyDominicanattendants，andpresentlyoneofthemremarkedthatthecockroachesIhadbroughtwouldfindplentyofcompanions;
　　thatthehousewasdoubtlessalreadyfullofthem。
　　Thiswasagreatrelieftomyconscience。Thetrunkwasremoved，andpresentlytheclothing，inwhichIwastobearrayedfortheevening，wasbroughtin。Itseemedinafearfulcondition，but，curiouslyenough，whileboots，shoes，and，aboveall，apackageofwhiteglovescarefullyreservedforgrandceremonies，hadbeennearlydevoured，thegarmentsofvarioussortshadescapedfairlywell。
　　Thenextthinginorderbeingthepreparationofmyapparelforuse，themenproceededfirsttodelugeitwithcarbolicacid;andthen，afterdryingitonthebalconiesinfrontofthevice—president’shouse，tomitigatetheinvinciblecarbolicodorbycopiousdrenchingsofFloridawater。Alldaylongtheywerethusatworkmakingreadyfortheeveningceremony。Induetimeitarrived;
　　and，finally，afterasumptuousentertainment，I
　　stoodbeforetheassembledconsulsandothermagnates。
　　Probablynooneofthemremembersawordofmydiscourse;butdoubtlesseverysurvivorwillagreethatnospeaker，beforeorsince，evermadetohimanappealofsuchpungency。Ipervadedthewholeatmosphereoftheplace;indeed，thetownitselfseemedtome，aslongasI
　　remainedinit，toreekofthatstrangemixtureofcarbolicacidandFloridawater;andassoonaspossibleafterreachingtheship，thecontentsofthetrunkwerethrownoverboard，andlifebecamelessaburden。
　　HavingbeendulyescortedtotheNantasket，andreceivedheartilybyCommanderMcCook，Iwasassignedhisowncabin，butsoonthoughtitexpedienttogetoutofitandsleepondeck。Thefactwasthatthecompanionsofmycockroacheshadpossessionoftheship，and，toallappearance，theirheadquarterswereinthecaptain’sroom。Ithereforeorderedmybedondeck;and，thoughitwasFebruary，passedtwodelightfulnightsinthatbalmyatmosphereofthetropicalseaswhileweskirtedthenorthsideoftheislanduntil，atPort—au—Prince，I
　　rejoinedtheothercommissioners，whohadcomeintheTennesseealongthesoutherncoast。
　　AttheHaitiancapitalourcommissionhadinterviewswiththepresident，hiscabinet，andothers，andafterwardwehadtimetolookaboutus。Fewthingscouldbemoredispiriting。Thecityhadbeenburnedagainandagain，andtherehadarisenatangleofstreetsdisplayingeverysortofcheapabsurdityinarchitecture。Theeffectsoftherecentrevolution——thelatestinalongseriesofcivicconvulsions，cruelandsterile——wereevidentonallsides。OntheslopeabovethecityhadstoodtheformerresidenceoftheFrenchgovernor:ithadbeenabeautifulpalace，and，beingsofarfromthesea，had，untiltherecentrevolution，escapedunharmed;butduringthatlasteffortasquadofmiscreants，howlingthepraisesofliberty，havinggotpossessionofasmallarmedvesselintheharborandfounduponitarifledcannonoflongrange，hadexercisedtheirmonkeyishpassionfordestructionbywantonlyfiringuponthisbeautifulstructure。Itnowlayinruins。Initsmainstaircaseanironringwaspointedouttous，andweweregiventhefollowingchronicle。
　　DuringtherecentrevolutionthefugitivePresidentSalnavehadbeencaptured，aleathernthonghadbeenrudelydrawnthroughagashinhishand，and，attachedbythistoacavalryman，hehadbeendraggedupthehilltothepalace，throughthecrowdwhichhadbutrecentlyhurrahedforhim，butwhichnowjeeredandpeltedhim。
　　Arrivinguponthesceneofhisformerglory，hewasattachedbythethongtothisironringandshot。
　　Oppositethepalacewastheruinofamausoleum，andinthestreetwerescatteredfragmentsofmarblesarcophagibeautifullysculptured:thesehadcontainedthebodiesofformerrulers，buttherevolutionistsofHaiti，imitatingthoseof1793inFrance，asapesimitatemen，hadtornthecorpsesoutofthemandhadthenscatteredthese，withthefragmentsoftheirmonuments，throughthestreets。
　　Inthemarketsofthecitywehadampleexperienceoftheadvantagearisingfromunlimitedpapermoney。
　　Successivegovernmentshadkeptthemselvesafloatbynewissuesofcurrency，untilitspurchasingpowerwasreducedalmosttonothing。Preposteroussumsweredemandedforthesimplestarticles:hundredsofdollarsforabasketoffruit，andthousandsofdollarsforastrawhat。
　　WithusasoneofoursecretarieswasFrederickDouglass，thegiftedsonofaneminentVirginianandaslavewoman，——oneofthetwoorthreemosttalentedmenofcolorI
　　haveeverknown。Uptothistimehehadcherishedmanyhopesthathisrace，ifsetfree，wouldimprove;butitwasevidentthatthisexperienceinSantoDomingodiscouragedanddepressedhim。Hesaidtooneofus，``Ifthisistheoutcomeofself—governmentbymyrace，Heavenhelpus！’’
　　AnothercuriousexamplebearingonthesamesubjectwasfurnishedusinJamaica，whitherwewentafterleav—
　　ingHaiti。Ourwishwastoconsult，onourwayhome，theformerpresidentoftheHaitianrepublic，Geffrard，——
　　whowasthenlivinginexilenearKingston。Wefoundhiminabeautifulapartment，elegantlyfurnished;andineverywayheseemedsuperiortotheofficialswhomwehadmetatPort—au—Prince。Hewasalightmulatto，intelligent，quiet，dignified，andabletostatehisviewswithoutundueemphasis。Hiswifewasveryagreeable，andhisdaughter，thoughclearlyofamelancholictemperament，oneofthemostbeautifulyoungwomenIhaveeverseen。Thereasonforhermelancholywasevidenttoanyonewhoknewherfather’shistory。HehadgonethroughmanypoliticalstormsbeforehehadfledfromHaiti，andinoneofthesehisenemieshadfiredthroughthewindowsofhishouseandkilledhisotherdaughter。
　　Hecalmlydiscussedwithustheconditionoftheisland，andevidentlybelievedthattheonlywaytosaveitfromutterbarbarismwastoputitunderthecontrolofsomecivilizedpower。
　　Interestingaswerehisopinions，heandhisfamily，aswesawthemintheirdailylife，werestillmoreso。Itwasarevelationtousallofwhatthecoloredracemightbecomeinalandwhereitisundernosocialban。ForgenerationsheandhishadbeentheequalsofthebestpeopletheyhadmetinFranceandinHaiti;theyhadbeenguestsatthedinnersofministersandatthesoiresofsavantsintheFrenchcapital;therewasnothingaboutthemofthatdeprecatorysortwhichoneseessoconstantlyinmenandwomenwithAfricanbloodintheirveinsinlandswheretheirracehasrecentlybeenheldinservitude。
　　AndhereImayagaincitethecaseofPresidentBaez——
　　amantowhomitprobablyneveroccurredthathewasnottheequalsociallyofthebestmenhemet，andwhoinanyEuropeancountrywouldbeatonceregardedasamanofmark，andwelcomedatanygatheringofnotables。
　　Amongourexcursions，whileinJamaica，wasonetoSpanishTown，theresidenceoftheBritishgovernor。
　　Inthedrawing—roomofHisExcellency’swifetherewasshownusonerathercuriousdetail。Notlongbeforeourvisit，thelegislaturehadbeenabolishedandtheislandhadbeenmadeacrowncolonyruledbyaroyalgovernorandcouncil;thereforeitwasthat，therebeingnofurtheruseforit，thegorgeouschairof``Mr。Speaker，’’ahugeconstructionapparentlyofcarvedoak，hadbeentransferredtoherladyship’sdrawing—room，andwewereinformedthatinthisshereceivedherguests。
　　FromKingstonwecametoKeyWest，andfromthatpointtoCharleston，where，asourfrigatewastoolargetocrossthebar，weweretakenoff，andthencereachedWashingtonbyrail。
　　OnedetailregardingthoselatterdaysofourcommissionisperhapsworthyofrecordasthrowinglightonaseamysideofAmericanlife。Fromfirsttolastwehadshowneverypossiblecivilitytotherepresentativesofthepresswhohadaccompaniedusonthefrigate，constantlytakingthemwithusinSantoDomingoandelsewhere，andgivingthemeveryfacilityforcollectinginformation。
　　ButfromtimetotimethingsoccurredwhichthrewanewandsomewhatunpleasantlightonthewaymisinformationisliberallypurveyedtotheAmericanpublic。Onedayoneofthesegentlemen，therepresentativeofaleadingNewYorkdaily，talkingwithmeofthesortofnewshispaperrequired，said，``Themanagersofourpaperdon’tcareforseriousinformation，suchasparticularsregardingthecountrywevisit，itsinhabitants，etc。，etc。;whattheywant，aboveall，issomethingofapersonalnature，suchasaquarrelorsquabble，andwhenoneoccurstheyexpectustomakethemostofit。’’
　　IthoughtnomoreofthisuntilIarrivedatPort—au—
　　Prince，whereIfoundthatthisgentlemanhadsuddenlytakenthemail—steamerforNewYorkonthepleaofurgentbusiness。Therealcauseofhisdeparturewassoonapparent。Hisletterstothepaperheservednowbegantocomebacktous，anditwasfoundthathehadexercisedhisimaginationvigorously。Hehadpresentedamassofsensationalinventions，buthisgeniushadbeenespeciallyexercisedintrumpingupquarrelswhichhadnevertakenplace;hismasterpiecebeinganaccountofabitterstrugglebetweenSenatorWadeandmyself。Asamatteroffact，therehadneverbeenbetweenustheslightestill—feeling;theoldsenatorhadbeenlikeafathertomefromfirsttolast。
　　Thesamesortofthingwasdonebysundryotherpressprostitutes，bothduringourstayintheWestIndiesandatWashington;butIamhappytosaythatseveralofthecorrespondentsweremenwhotooktheirdutiesseriously，andreallyrenderedaservicetotheAmericanpublicbygivinginformationworthhaving。
　　OurjourneyfromCharlestontoWashingtonhadoneepisodeperhapsworthyofrecording，asshowingapeculiarityoflocalfeelingatthattime。Throughallthelongdaywehadlittleornothingtoeat，andlookedforwardravenouslytothedinneronboardthePotomacsteamer。
　　Butonreachingitandenteringthedining—room，wefoundthatoursecretary，Mr。FrederickDouglass，wasabsolutelyrefusedadmittance。He，amanwhohaddinedwiththeforemoststatesmenandscholarsofourNorthernStatesandofEurope，——amanwhobyhisdignity，ability，andelegantmannerswasfittohonoranycompany，——was，onaccountofhislighttingeofAfricanblood，notthoughtfittositatmeatwiththemotleycrowdonaPotomacsteamer。Thisbeingthecase，Dr。Howeandmyselfdeclinedtodine，andsoreachedWashington，aboutmidnight，almoststarving，thusexperiencing，atalowprice，thepangsandgloriesofmartyrdom。
　　Onediscoverymadebythecommissiononitsreturnoughttobementionedhere，forthetruthofhistory。Mr。
　　Sumner，inhisspeechesbeforetheSenate，hadmadeastrongpointbycontrastingtheconductoftheUnitedStateswiththatofSpaintowardSantoDomingo。HehadinsistedthattheconductofSpainhadbeenfarmorehonorablethanthatoftheUnitedStates;thatSpainhadbroughtnopressuretobearupontheDominicanrepublic;
　　thatwhenSantoDomingohadacceptedSpanishrule，someyearsbefore，ithaddonesoofitsownfreewill;andthat``notasingleSpanishvesselwastheninitswaters，norasingleSpanishsailoruponitssoil。’’Ontheotherhand，heinsistedthattheconductoftheUnitedStateshadbeentheveryoppositeofthis;thatithadbroughtpressuretobearuponthelittleislandrepublic;andthatwhenthedecisionwasmadeinfavorofourcountry，therewereAmericanshipsoffthecoastandAmericansoldiersupontheisland。Toprovethisstatement，hereadfromaspeechoftheSpanishprimeministerpublishedintheofficialpaperoftheSpanishgovernmentatMadrid。Toourgreatsurprise，wefound，onarrivingattheisland，thatthisstatementwasnotcorrect;thatwhentheactioninfavorofannexationtoSpaintookplace，SpanishshipswereuponthecoastandSpanishsoldiersupontheisland;andthattherehadbeenfarmoreappearanceofpressureatthattimethanafterward，whenthelittlerepublicsoughtadmissiontotheAmericanUnion。Oneofourfirstefforts，therefore，onreturning，wastofindacopyofthisofficialpaper，forthepurposeofdiscoveringhowitwasthattheleaderoftheSpanishministryhadutteredsograveanuntruth。TheSpanishnewspaperwasmissingfromthelibraryofCongress;
　　butatlastDr。Howe，thethirdcommissioner，alife—
　　longanddeeplyattachedfriendofMr。Sumner，founditinthelibraryofthesenator。ThepassagewhichMr。
　　Sumnerhadquotedwascarefullymarked;itwassimplytotheeffectthatwhentheFIRSTproceedingslookingtowardannexationtoSpainwereinitiated，therewerenoSpanishshipsinthosewaters，norSpanishsoldiersonshore。Thiswas，however，equallytrueoftheUnitedStates;forwhenproceedingswerebeguninSantoDomingolookingtoannexation，therewasnotanAmericanshipoffthecoast，noranAmericansoldierontheisland。
　　Butthepainfulthinginthematterwasthat，hadMrSumnerreadthesentenceimmediatelyfollowingthatwhichhequoted，itwouldhaveshownsimplyanddistinctlythathiscontentionwasunfounded;that，atthetimewhentheannexationproceedingsWEREformallyinitiatedandaccomplished，therewereSpanishshipsoffthoseshoresandSpanishsoldiersontheisland。
　　IrecallvividlythedeepregretexpressedatthetimebyDr。HowethathisfriendSenatorSumnerhadbeensobitterinhisoppositiontotheadministrationthathehadquotedthefirstpartoftheSpanishminister’sspeechandsuppressedthesecondpart。ItwasclearthatifMr。SumnerhadreadthewholepassagetotheSenateitwouldhaveshownthattheconductoftheUnitedStateshadnotbeenlessmagnanimousthanthatofSpaininthematter，andthatnoargumentwhateveragainsttheadministrationcouldbefoundeduponitsactioninsendingshipsandtroopstotheisland。
　　Indrawingupourreportafterourarrival，anamicabledifferenceofopinionshoweditself。SenatorWade，beinga``manifest—destiny’’man，wisheditexpresslytorecommendannexation;Dr。Howe，inhisanxietytoraisethestatusofthecoloredrace，tookasimilarview;butI
　　pointedouttothemthefactthatCongresshadasked，notforarecommendation，butforfacts;thattogivethemadviceundersuchcircumstanceswastoexposeourselvestoasnub，andcouldbringnogoodtoanycausewhichanyofusmightwishtoserve;andIstatedthatifthegeneralreportcontainedrecommendations，Imustbeallowedtopresentonesimplycontainingfacts。
　　Theresultwasthatweunitedinthedocumentpresented，whichisasimplestatementoffacts，andwhich，asIbelieve，remainstothisdaythebestgeneralaccountoftheresourcesofSantoDomingo。
　　TheresultofourreportwaswhatIhadexpected。TheSpanishpartofthatislandisofgreatvaluefromanagriculturalandprobablyfromaminingpointofview。Itsvalleysbeingsweptbythetrade—winds，itsmountainslopesoffertoawhitepopulationsummerretreatslikethoseaffordedbysimilarsituationstotheBritishoccupantsofIndia。Inwinteritmightalsoserveasavaluablesanatorium。IrememberwelltheanswermadetomebyamanfromMaine，whohadbroughthisfamilytotheneighborhoodofSamanaBayinordertoescapetherigorsoftheNewEnglandwinter。Onmyaskinghimaboutthediseasesprevalentinhisneighborhood，hesaidthathisentirehouseholdhadgonethroughalightacclimatingfever，butheadded:``Wehaveallgotthroughitwithoutharm;andonlookingthewholematterover，Iampersuadedthat，ifyouweretodividethepeopleofanyNewEnglandStateintotwohalves，leavingonehalfathomeandsendingtheotherhalfhere，therewouldintenyearsbefewerdeathsinthehalfsenthere，fromallthediseasesofthiscountry，thaninthehalfleftinNewEngland，fromconsumptionalone。’’
　　AspecialelementinthequestionofannexationwasthevalueoftheharborofSamanaincontrollingoneofthegreatpassagesfromEuropetotheIsthmus。Itislargeenoughtoholdanyfleet，isprotectedbyamountain—rangefromthenorthernwinds，iseasilyfortified，andisthenaturaloutletofthelargestandmostfertilevalleyintheislands。Morethanthis，iftheexperimentofannexinganoutlyingpossessionwastobetried，thatwas，perhaps，thebestofopportunities，sincetheresidentpopulationtobeassimilatedwasexceedinglysmall。
　　ButthepeopleoftheUnitedStates，greatlyastheyhonoredGeneralGrant，andmuchastheyrespectedhisrecommendations，couldnottakehisview。Theyevidentlyfeltthat，withthenewdutiesimposeduponthembythevastnumberofmenrecentlysetfreeandadmittedtosuffrageintheSouth，theyhadquiteenoughtodowithoutassumingtheresponsibilityofgoverninganddevelopingthisnewregionpeopledbyblacksandmulattos;
　　andasaresultofthisverynaturalfeelingthewholeproposalwasdropped，andwilldoubtlessremaininabeyanceuntiltheexperimentsindealingwithPortoRicoandthePhilippinesshallhaveshownthepeopleoftheUnitedStateswhetherthereisanyplaceforsuchdependenciesunderoursystem。
　　CHAPTERXXIX
　　ASCOMMISSIONERTOTHEPARISEXPOSITIONOF1878
　　Mynextexperiencewasofaquasi—diplomaticsort，inconnectionwiththeParisExpositionof1878，anditneedssomepreface。
　　DuringtheCentennialExpositionof1876atPhiladelphia，Ihadbeenappointedupontheeducationaljury，and，asthemainpartoftheworkcameduringtheuniversitylongvacation，haddevotedmyselftoit，andhadthusbeenbroughtintorelationswithsomeveryinterestingmen。
　　Ofthesemaybenamed，attheoutset，theEmperorDomPedroofBrazil。Ifirstsawhiminasomewhatcuriousway。HehadlandedatNewYorkinthemorning，andearlyintheafternoonheappearedwiththeEmpressandtheirgentlemenandladiesinwaitingatBooth’sTheater。
　　TheattractionwasShakspere’s``HenryV，’’andnosoonerwasheseatedinhisboxthanhehadhisShakspereopenbeforehim。Beinginanorchestrastall，Inaturallyobservedhimfromtimetotime，andatonepassagelightwasthrownuponhisideaofhisdutiesasamonarch。Theplaywasgivenfinely，bythebestAmericancompanyofrecentyears，andhewasdeeplyabsorbedinit。ButpresentlytherecamethewordsofKingHenry——thenotedpassage:
　　``Andwhathavekings，thatprivateshavenottoo，Saveceremony，savegeneralceremony？
　　Andwhatartthou，thouidolceremony？’’
　　WhereupontheEmperorandEmpress，evidentlymovedbythesameimpression，turnedtheirheadsfromthestage，lookedsignificantlyateachother，andhismajestyveryearnestlynoddedtohiswifeseveraltimes，asifthoroughlyassenting。
　　Thefeelingthusbetrayedwasundoubtedlysincere。Hisreallovewasforscience，literature，andart;butaboveallforscience。Someyearsbefore，atthefoundingofCornellUniversity，Agassizhadshownmeprivatelettersfromhimrevealinghisknowledgeofnaturalhistory，andthesamethirstforknowledgewhichheshowedthenwasevidentnow。Fromdawntillduskhewashardatwork，visitingplacesofinterestandaskingquestionswhich，asvariouseminentauthoritiesbothintheUnitedStatesandFrancehavesinceassuredme，showedthathekepthimselfwellabreastofthemostrecentscientificinvestigations。
　　Onthefollowingmorningheinvitedmetocalluponhim，andonmydoingso，hesalutedmewithamultitudeofquestionsregardingourschools，colleges，anduniversities，whichIansweredasbestIcould，thoughmanyofthemreallymeritedmoretimethancouldbegivenduringamorninginterview。Hismannerwasbothimpressiveandwinning。Hehadclearlythoughtmuchoneducationalproblems，andnomanengagedineducationalworkcouldfailtobestimulatedbyhisquestionsandcomments。Inhismannertherewasnothingdomineeringorassuming。
　　Isawhimatvarioustimesafterward，andrememberespeciallyhiskindlyandperfectlydemocraticmanneratasuppergivenbythelateMr。DrexelofPhiladelphia，whenhecameamongus，movingfromgrouptogroup，recognizinghereoneoldfriendandthereanother，anddiscussingwitheachsomematterofvalue。
　　RepublicanasIam，itiscleartomethathisconstitutionalsovereigntywasagovernmentfarmorefree，liberal，and，indeed，republican，thantheruleofthedemagoguedespotswhoafterwarddrovehimfromhisthroneeverhasbeenoreverwillbe。
　　AnotherveryinterestingpersonwasaSpanishofficer，DonJuanMarin，whohassinceheldhighcommandsbothinhisowncountryandintheWestIndies。Wewereuponthesamejury，andIcametoadmirehimmuch。Oneday，aswesatinourcommittee—roomdiscussingvarioussubjectsbroughtbeforeus，thereappearedinthestreetleadingtothemainentranceofthegroundsalargebodyofsoldierswithlouddrummingandfifing。Onhisaskingwhattroopsthesewere，IansweredthattheywerethemostnotedofourAmericanmilitiaregiments——theNewYorkSeventh;andonhisexpressingawishtoseethem，webothwalkedoutforthatpurpose。Presentlythegateswerethrownopen，andinmarchedtheregiment，trimandbrisk，bearingalofttheflagoftheUnitedStatesandthestandardoftheStateofNewYork。
　　Atthemomentwhenthestandardandflagwereabreastofus，ColonelMarin，whowasincivildress，drewhimselfup，removedhishat，andbowedlowwithsimpledignity。
　　Thegreatcrowd，includingmyself，wereimpressedbythisaction。Ithadneveroccurredtoanyoneoftherestofustoshowsuchatributetotheflagunderwhichsomanygoodandtruemenhadfoughtanddiedforus;and，asoneofthecrowdveryjustlyremarkedafterward，``TheSpaniardcheapenedthewholelotofus。’’Withasingleexception，itwasthefinestexhibitionofmannersIhaveeverseen。[11]
　　[11]SeethechapteronmyattachshipinRussia。
　　StillanotherdelegatewasProfessorLevasseur，oftheCollegeofFranceandtheFrenchInstitute。Hisquicknessinascertainingwhatwasofvalueinapolitico—economicalview，andhisdiscussionsofgeographicalmatters，interestedandinstructedallwhohadtodowithhim。
　　WithhimwasRnMillet，anexampleofthemostattractivequalitiesofaseriousFrenchman——qualitieswhichhavesincebeenrecognizedinhisappointmentsasministerandambassadortoSwedenandtoTunis。BoththesegentlemenafterwardmademevisitsatCornellwhichIgreatlyenjoyed。
　　Atthistime，too，Imadeafriendshipwhichbecameprecioustome——thatofGardnerHubbard，oneofthebest，truest，andmostcapablemen，inwhateverheundertook，thatIhaveeverseen。Thematterwhichinterestedhimthenhassinceinterestedtheworld。Hisson—in—lawMr。AlexanderGrahamBell，wasexhibitingwhatappearedtobeatoy，——atoywhichononeoccasionheshowedtoDomPedroandtoothersofus，andwhichenabledustohearinoneofthebuildingsoftheexpositionaviolinplayedinanotherbuilding。Itwasregardedasaninterestingplaything，andnothingmore。Acontrollingrightinitsusemighthavebeenboughtforaverymoderatesum——yetitwasthebeginningofthetelephone！
　　Inconnectionwiththeseandotherinterestingmen，I
　　haddevotedmyselftotheeducationalexhibitsoftheexposition;andtheresultwasthat，duringthefollowingyear，IwasappointedbytheGovernoroftheStateofNewYorkoneoftwohonorarycommissionerstotheParisExposition;theotherbeingMr。Morton，afterwardMinistertoFrance，Vice—PresidentoftheUnitedStates，andGovernoroftheStateofNewYork。
　　Iwasnotinclined，atfirst，totakemyappointmentveryseriously，butwenttoParissimplytovisittheexposition，hopingthatmyhonoraryfunctionwouldgivemegoodopportunities。ButonarrivingIfoundthecommissioner—
　　generaloftheUnitedStates，GovernorMcCormick，hardpressedbyhisduties，andlookingaboutforhelp。Alargenumberofregularcommissionershadbeenappointed，butveryfewofthemwereoftheslightestuse。HardlyoneofthemcouldspeakFrench，andveryfewofthemreallytookanyinterestinthedutiesassignedthem。Themainexception，averynobleone，wasmyoldfriendPresidentBarnardofColumbiaCollege，andhehadnotyetarrived。
　　Underthesecircumstances，IyieldedtotheearnestrequestofGovernorMcCormickandthrewmyselfheartilyintotheworkofmakingourpartoftheexpositionasuccess。
　　TheAmericanrepresentationattheViennaExpositionafewyearsbeforehadresultedinascandalwhichhadresoundedthroughEurope，andthisscandalhadarisenfromthefactthatasubordinate，whohadgainedtheconfidenceofourexcellentcommissioner—generalatthatpost，hadbeencharged，andtoallappearancejustly，withreceivingmoneyforassigningprivilegestobar—keepersandcaterers。Theresultwasthatthecommissioner—generalwascruellywounded，andthatfinallyheandhisassociateswereignominiouslyremoved，andtheAmericanministertoAustriaputinhisplaceuntilanewcommissioncouldbeformed。OfcourseeverynewspaperinEuropehostiletorepublicanideas，andtheywereverymany，madethemostofthiscatastrophe。OneoftheminViennawasespeciallyvirulent;itcalledattentiontothemodelofanAmericanschool—houseintheexposition，andsaidthat``itshouldbecarefullyobservedaspartofthemachinerywhichtrainsupsuchmercenarywretchesashaverecentlydisgracedhumanityattheexposition。’’
　　Toavoidscandals，tonegotiatewiththeFrenchcommissionersononeside，andthecrowdofexhibitorsontheother，andespeciallytoseethatinallparticularstherepresentativesofAmericanindustrywerefullyrecognized，wasamatterofmuchdifficulty;buthappilyallturnedoutwell。
　　Amongthedutiesofmypositionwasmembershipoftheupperjury——thatwhich，inbehalfoftheFrenchRepublic，awardedthehighestprizes。Eachday，ataboutnineinthemorning，wemet，andaremarkablebodyitwas。AtmyrightsatMeissonier，thenthemosteminentofFrenchpainters，andbeyondhimQuintana，theSpanishpoet。OftheformerofthesetwoIpossessacuriousmemento。Hewasveryassiduousinattendanceatoursessions，andthemomenthetookhisseathealwaysbegandrawing，hismaterialsbeingtheblockofletter—paperandthepencils，pens，andinklyingbeforehim。Nomatterwhatwasunderdiscussion，hekeptonwithhisdrawing。Whilehelistened，andevenwhilehetalked，hispencilorpencontinuedmovingoverthepaper。Heseemedtobringeverymorningamassofnewimpressionscaughtduringhiswalktotheexposition，whichhemadehastetotrans—
　　fertopaper。Sometimesheusedapencil，sometimes，aquillpen，andnotinfrequentlyhewouldplungethefeatherendofthequillintohisinkstandandrapidlyputintohisworkbroaderandblackerstrokes。Assoonashehadfinishedadrawinghegenerallytoreitintobitsandthrewthemuponthefloor，butoccasionallyhewouldfoldthesketchescarefullyandputthemintohispocket。
　　Thisbeingthecase，noonedaredaskhimforoneofthem。
　　Butonemorninghispapergaveout，andforlackofithetookupaboxwoodpaper—knifelyingnearandbeganworkonit。Firsthedecoratedthehandleinasortofrococoway，andthendashedoffontheblade，withhispen，averyspiritedhead——abourgeoisphysiognomysomewhatinGavarni’smanner。Butashecouldnottearthepaper—knifeintobits，anddidnotcaretotakeitaway，heleftituponthetable。Thiswasmychance。ImmediatelyafterthesessionIaskedthedirector—generaltoallowmetocarryitoffasasouvenir;heassentedheartily，andsoIpossessapicturewhichIsawbegun，continued，andendedbyoneofthegreatestofFrenchpainters。
　　AtmyleftwasTresca，directoroftheFrenchNationalConservatoryofArtsandTrades;andnexthim，thesphinxofthecommittee——themostsilentmanIeversawtherectorofthePortugueseUniversityofCoimbra。Duringthethreemonthsofoursessionnooneofuseverheardhimutteraword。OppositewasJulesSimon，eminentasanorator，philosopher，scholar，andmanofletters;
　　anacademicianwhohadheldpositionsinvariouscabinets，andhadevenbeenprimeministeroftherepublic。
　　OnonesideofhimwasTulloMassarani，asenatoroftheItaliankingdom，eminentasawriteronthephilosophyofart;ontheother，Boussingault，oneoftheforemostchemistsofthecentury;andnearhim，Wischniegradsky，directoroftheImperialTechnicalInstituteatMoscow，whomI
　　afterwardcametoknowasministeroffinanceatSt。
　　Petersburg。Eachafternoonwedevotedtoexaminingthegreaterexhibitswhichweretocomebeforeusincompetitionforthegrandsprixonthefollowingmorning。
　　Atoneofoursessionsacuriousdifficultyarose。Thecommitteeontheawardoftheseforemostprizesforadvancedworkinelectricitybroughtintheirreport，and，tomyamazement，madenoawardtomycompatriotEdison，whowasthenattheheightofhisreputation。PresentlyTresca，whoreadthereport，andwhoreallylamentedtheomission，whisperedtomethereasonofit。ThroughthenegligenceofpersonsrepresentingEdison，noproperexhibitionofhisinventionshadbeenmadetothecommittee。