MyDearSidneyColvin，Thejourneywhichthislittlebookistodescribewasveryagreeableandfortunateforme。Afteranuncouthbeginning，Ihadthebestoflucktotheend。ButwearealltravellersinwhatJohnBunyancallsthewildernessofthisworld-all，too，travellerswithadonkey:andthebestthatwefindinourtravelsisanhonestfriend。Heisafortunatevoyagerwhofindsmany。Wetravel，indeed，tofindthem。Theyaretheendandtherewardoflife。Theykeepusworthyofourselves；andwhenwearealone，weareonlynearertotheabsent。
Everybookis，inanintimatesense，acircularlettertothefriendsofhimwhowritesit。Theyalonetakehismeaning；theyfindprivatemessages，assurancesoflove，andexpressionsofgratitude，droppedforthemineverycorner。Thepublicisbutagenerouspatronwhodefraysthepostage。Yetthroughtheletterisdirectedtoall，wehaveanoldandkindlycustomofaddressingitontheoutsidetoone。Ofwhatshallamanbeproud，ifheisnotproudofhisfriends？Andso，mydearSidneyColvin，itiswithpridethatIsignmyselfaffectionatelyyours，R。L。S。
VELAY
Manyarethemightythings，andnoughtismoremightythanman……Hemastersbyhisdevicesthetenantofthefields。
SOPHOCLES。
Whohathloosedthebandsofthewildass？
JOB。
THEDONKEY，THEPACK，ANDTHEPACK-SADDLE
INalittleplacecalledLeMonastier，inapleasanthighlandvalleyfifteenmilesfromLePuy，Ispentaboutamonthoffinedays。Monastierisnotableforthemakingoflace，fordrunkenness，forfreedomoflanguage，andforunparalleledpoliticaldissension。ThereareadherentsofeachofthefourFrenchparties-Legitimists，Orleanists，Imperialists，andRepublicans-inthislittlemountain-town；andtheyallhate，loathe，decry，andcalumniateeachother。Exceptforbusinesspurposes，ortogiveeachotherthelieinatavernbrawl，theyhavelaidasideeventhecivilityofspeech。'TisameremountainPoland。InthemidstofthisBabylonIfoundmyselfarallying-
point；everyonewasanxioustobekindandhelpfultothestranger。Thiswasnotmerelyfromthenaturalhospitalityofmountainpeople，norevenfromthesurprisewithwhichIwasregardedasamanlivingofhisownfreewillinLeMonastier，whenhemightjustaswellhavelivedanywhereelseinthisbigworld；
itaroseagooddealfrommyprojectedexcursionsouthwardthroughtheCevennes。Atravellerofmysortwasathinghithertounheardofinthatdistrict。Iwaslookeduponwithcontempt，likeamanwhoshouldprojectajourneytothemoon，butyetwitharespectfulinterest，likeonesettingforthfortheinclementPole。Allwerereadytohelpinmypreparations；acrowdofsympathiserssupportedmeatthecriticalmomentofabargain；notastepwastakenbutwasheraldedbyglassesroundandcelebratedbyadinnerorabreakfast。
ItwasalreadyharduponOctoberbeforeIwasreadytosetforth，andatthehighaltitudesoverwhichmyroadlaytherewasnoIndiansummertobelookedfor。Iwasdetermined，ifnottocampout，atleasttohavethemeansofcampingoutinmypossession；
forthereisnothingmoreharassingtoaneasymindthanthenecessityofreachingshelterbydusk，andthehospitalityofavillageinnisnotalwaystobereckonedsurebythosewhotrudgeonfoot。Atent，aboveallforasolitarytraveller，istroublesometopitch，andtroublesometostrikeagain；andevenonthemarchitformsaconspicuousfeatureinyourbaggage。A
sleeping-sack，ontheotherhand，isalwaysready-youhaveonlytogetintoit；itservesadoublepurpose-abedbynight，aportmanteaubyday；anditdoesnotadvertiseyourintentionofcampingouttoeverycuriouspasser-by。Thisisahugepoint。Ifacampisnotsecret，itisbutatroubledresting-place；youbecomeapubliccharacter；theconvivialrusticvisitsyourbedsideafteranearlysupper；andyoumustsleepwithoneeyeopen，andbeupbeforetheday。Idecidedonasleeping-sack；andafterrepeatedvisitstoLePuy，andadealofhighlivingformyselfandmyadvisers，asleeping-sackwasdesigned，constructed，andtriumphantlybroughthome。
Thischildofmyinventionwasnearlysixfeetsquare，exclusiveoftwotriangularflapstoserveasapillowbynightandasthetopandbottomofthesackbyday。Icallit'thesack，'butitwasneverasackbymorethancourtesy:onlyasortoflongrollorsausage，greenwaterproofcart-clothwithoutandbluesheep'sfurwithin。Itwascommodiousasavalise，warmanddryforabed。
Therewasluxuriousturningroomforone；andatapinchthethingmightservefortwo。Icouldburymyselfinituptotheneck；formyheadItrustedtoafurcap，withahoodtofolddownovermyearsandabandtopassundermynoselikearespirator；andincaseofheavyrainIproposedtomakemyselfalittletent，ortentlet，withmywaterproofcoat，threestones，andabentbranch。
ItwillreadilybeconceivedthatIcouldnotcarrythishugepackageonmyown，merelyhuman，shoulders。Itremainedtochooseabeastofburden。Now，ahorseisafineladyamonganimals，flighty，timid，delicateineating，oftenderhealth；heistoovaluableandtoorestivetobeleftalone，sothatyouarechainedtoyourbruteastoafellowgalley-slave；adangerousroadputshimoutofhiswits；inshort，he'sanuncertainandexactingally，andaddsthirty-foldtothetroublesofthevoyager。WhatI
requiredwassomethingcheapandsmallandhardy，andofastolidandpeacefultemper；andalltheserequisitespointedtoadonkey。
TheredweltanoldmaninMonastier，ofratherunsoundintellectaccordingtosome，muchfollowedbystreet-boys，andknowntofameasFatherAdam。FatherAdamhadacart，andtodrawthecartadiminutiveshe-ass，notmuchbiggerthanadog，thecolourofamouse，withakindlyeyeandadeterminedunder-jaw。Therewassomethingneatandhigh-bred，aquakerishelegance，abouttheroguethathitmyfancyonthespot。OurfirstinterviewwasinMonastiermarket-place。Toprovehergoodtemper，onechildafteranotherwassetuponherbacktoride，andoneafteranotherwentheadoverheelsintotheair；untilawantofconfidencebegantoreigninyouthfulbosoms，andtheexperimentwasdiscontinuedfromadearthofsubjects。Iwasalreadybackedbyadeputationofmyfriends；butasifthiswerenotenough，allthebuyersandsellerscameroundandhelpedmeinthebargain；andtheassandIandFatherAdamwerethecentreofahubbubfornearhalfanhour。Atlengthshepassedintomyservicefortheconsiderationofsixty-
fivefrancsandaglassofbrandy。Thesackhadalreadycosteightyfrancsandtwoglassesofbeer；sothatModestine，asI
instantlybaptizedher，wasuponallaccountsthecheaperarticle。
Indeed，thatwasasitshouldbe；forshewasonlyanappurtenanceofmymattress，orself-actingbedsteadonfourcastors。
IhadalastinterviewwithFatherAdaminabilliard-roomatthewitchinghourofdawn，whenIadministeredthebrandy。Heprofessedhimselfgreatlytouchedbytheseparation，anddeclaredhehadoftenboughtwhitebreadforthedonkeywhenhehadbeencontentwithblackbreadforhimself；butthis，accordingtothebestauthorities，musthavebeenaflightoffancy。Hehadanameinthevillageforbrutallymisusingtheass；yetitiscertainthatheshedatear，andthetearmadeacleanmarkdownonecheek。
Bytheadviceofafallaciouslocalsaddler，aleatherpadwasmadeformewithringstofastenonmybundle；andIthoughtfullycompletedmykitandarrangedmytoilette。Bywayofarmouryandutensils，Itookarevolver，alittlespirit-lampandpan，alanternandsomehalfpennycandles，ajack-knifeandalargeleatherflask。Themaincargoconsistedoftwoentirechangesofwarmclothing-besidesmytravellingwearofcountryvelveteen，pilot-coat，andknittedspencer-somebooks，andmyrailway-rug，which，beingalsointheformofabag，mademeadoublecastleforcoldnights。ThepermanentlarderwasrepresentedbycakesofchocolateandtinsofBolognasausage。Allthis，exceptwhatI
carriedaboutmyperson，waseasilystowedintothesheepskinbag；
andbygoodfortuneIthrewinmyemptyknapsack，ratherforconvenienceofcarriagethanfromanythoughtthatIshouldwantitonmyjourney。FormoreimmediateneedsItookalegofcoldmutton，abottleofBeaujolais，anemptybottletocarrymilk，anegg-beater，andaconsiderablequantityofblackbreadandwhite，likeFatherAdam，formyselfanddonkey，onlyinmyschemeofthingsthedestinationswerereversed。
Monastrians，ofallshadesofthoughtinpolitics，hadagreedinthreateningmewithmanyludicrousmisadventures，andwithsuddendeathinmanysurprisingforms。Cold，wolves，robbers，aboveallthenocturnalpracticaljoker，weredailyandeloquentlyforcedonmyattention。Yetinthesevaticinations，thetrue，patentdangerwasleftout。LikeChristian，itwasfrommypackIsufferedbytheway。Beforetellingmyownmishaps，letmeintwowordsrelatethelessonofmyexperience。Ifthepackiswellstrappedattheends，andhungatfulllength-notdoubled，foryourlife-acrossthepack-saddle，thetravellerissafe。Thesaddlewillcertainlynotfit，suchistheimperfectionofourtransitorylife；itwillassuredlytoppleandtendtooverset；buttherearestonesoneveryroadside，andamansoonlearnstheartofcorrectinganytendencytooverbalancewithawell-adjustedstone。
OnthedayofmydepartureIwasupalittleafterfive；bysix，webegantoloadthedonkey；andtenminutesafter，myhopeswereinthedust。ThepadwouldnotstayonModestine'sbackforhalfamoment。Ireturnedittoitsmaker，withwhomIhadsocontumeliousapassagethatthestreetoutsidewascrowdedfromwalltowallwithgossipslookingonandlistening。Thepadchangedhandswithmuchvivacity；perhapsitwouldbemoredescriptivetosaythatwethrewitateachother'sheads；and，atanyrate，wewereverywarmandunfriendly，andspokewithadealoffreedom。
Ihadacommondonkeypack-saddle-aBARDE，astheycallit-
fitteduponModestine；andoncemoreloadedherwithmyeffects。
Thedoubledsack，mypilot-coatforitwaswarm，andIwastowalkinmywaistcoat，agreatbarofblackbread，andanopenbasketcontainingthewhitebread，themutton，andthebottles，wereallcordedtogetherinaveryelaboratesystemofknots，andIlookedontheresultwithfatuouscontent。Insuchamonstrousdeck-
cargo，allpoisedabovethedonkey'sshoulders，withnothingbelowtobalance，onabrand-newpack-saddlethathadnotyetbeenworntofittheanimal，andfastenedwithbrand-newgirthsthatmightbeexpectedtostretchandslackenbytheway，evenaverycarelesstravellershouldhaveseendisasterbrewing。Thatelaboratesystemofknots，again，wastheworkoftoomanysympathiserstobeveryartfullydesigned。Itistruetheytightenedthecordswithawill；asmanyasthreeatatimewouldhaveafootagainstModestine'squarters，andbehaulingwithclenchedteeth；butI
learnedafterwardsthatonethoughtfulperson，withoutanyexerciseofforce，canmakeamoresolidjobthanhalf-a-dozenheatedandenthusiasticgrooms。Iwasthenbutanovice；evenafterthemisadventureofthepadnothingcoulddisturbmysecurity，andI
wentforthfromthestabledoorasanoxgoethtotheslaughter。
THEGREENDONKEY-DRIVER
THEbellofMonastierwasjuststrikingnineasIgotquitofthesepreliminarytroublesanddescendedthehillthroughthecommon。AslongasIwaswithinsightofthewindows，asecretshameandthefearofsomelaughabledefeatwithheldmefromtamperingwithModestine。Shetrippedalonguponherfoursmallhoofswithasoberdaintinessofgait；fromtimetotimesheshookherearsorhertail；andshelookedsosmallunderthebundlethatmymindmisgaveme。Wegotacrossthefordwithoutdifficulty-therewasnodoubtaboutthematter，shewasdocilityitself-andonceontheotherbank，wheretheroadbeginstomountthroughpine-woods，Itookinmyrighthandtheunhallowedstaff，andwithaquakingspiritappliedittothedonkey。Modestinebriskedupherpaceforperhapsthreesteps，andthenrelapsedintoherformerminuet。
Anotherapplicationhadthesameeffect，andsowiththethird。I
amworthythenameofanEnglishman，anditgoesagainstmyconsciencetolaymyhandrudelyonafemale。Idesisted，andlookedheralloverfromheadtofoot；thepoorbrute'skneesweretremblingandherbreathingwasdistressed；itwasplainthatshecouldgonofasteronahill。Godforbid，thoughtI，thatIshouldbrutalisethisinnocentcreature；lethergoatherownpace，andletmepatientlyfollow。
Whatthatpacewas，thereisnowordmeanenoughtodescribe；itwassomethingasmuchslowerthanawalkasawalkisslowerthanarun；itkeptmehangingoneachfootforanincrediblelengthoftime；infiveminutesitexhaustedthespiritandsetupafeverinallthemusclesoftheleg。AndyetIhadtokeepcloseathandandmeasuremyadvanceexactlyuponhers；forifIdroppedafewyardsintotherear，orwentonafewyardsahead，Modestinecameinstantlytoahaltandbegantobrowse。ThethoughtthatthiswastolastfromheretoAlaisnearlybrokemyheart。Ofallconceivablejourneys，thispromisedtobethemosttedious。I
triedtotellmyselfitwasalovelyday；Itriedtocharmmyforebodingspiritwithtobacco；butIhadavisioneverpresenttomeofthelong，longroads，uphillanddowndale，andapairoffigureseverinfinitesimallymoving，footbyfoot，ayardtotheminute，and，likethingsenchantedinanightmare，approachingnonearertothegoal。
Inthemeantimetherecameupbehindusatallpeasant，perhapsfortyyearsofage，ofanironicalsnuffycountenance，andarrayedinthegreentail-coatofthecountry。Heovertookushandoverhand，andstoppedtoconsiderourpitifuladvance。
'Yourdonkey，'sayshe，'isveryold？'
Itoldhim，Ibelievednot。
Then，hesupposed，wehadcomefar。
Itoldhim，wehadbutnewlyleftMonastier。
'ETVOUSMARCHEZCOMMECA!'criedhe；and，throwingbackhishead，helaughedlongandheartily。Iwatchedhim，halfpreparedtofeeloffended，untilhehadsatisfiedhismirth；andthen，'Youmusthavenopityontheseanimals，'saidhe；and，pluckingaswitchoutofathicket，hebegantolaceModestineaboutthestern-works，utteringacry。Therogueprickedupherearsandbrokeintoagoodroundpace，whichshekeptupwithoutflagging，andwithoutexhibitingtheleastsymptomofdistress，aslongasthepeasantkeptbesideus。Herformerpantingandshakinghadbeen，Iregrettosay，apieceofcomedy。
MyDEUSEXMACHINA，beforeheleftme，suppliedsomeexcellent，ifinhumane，advice；presentedmewiththeswitch，whichhedeclaredshewouldfeelmoretenderlythanmycane；andfinallytaughtmethetruecryormasonicwordofdonkey-drivers，'Proot!'Allthetime，heregardedmewithacomical，incredulousair，whichwasembarrassingtoconfront；andsmiledovermydonkey-driving，asI
mighthavesmiledoverhisorthography，orhisgreentail-coat。
Butitwasnotmyturnforthemoment。
Iwasproudofmynewlore，andthoughtIhadlearnedthearttoperfection。AndcertainlyModestinedidwondersfortherestofthefore-noon，andIhadabreathingspacetolookaboutme。ItwasSabbath；themountain-fieldswereallvacantinthesunshine；
andaswecamedownthroughSt。MartindeFrugeres，thechurchwascrowdedtothedoor，therewerepeoplekneelingwithoutuponthesteps，andthesoundofthepriest'schantingcameforthoutofthediminterior。Itgavemeahomefeelingonthespot；forIamacountrymanoftheSabbath，sotospeak，andallSabbathobservances，likeaScottishaccent，strikeinmemixedfeelings，gratefulandthereverse。Itisonlyatraveller，hurryingbylikeapersonfromanotherplanet，whocanrightlyenjoythepeaceandbeautyofthegreatasceticfeast。Thesightoftherestingcountrydoeshisspiritgood。Thereissomethingbetterthanmusicinthewideunusualsilence；anditdisposeshimtoamiablethoughts，likethesoundofalittleriverorthewarmthofsunlight。
InthispleasanthumourIcamedownthehilltowhereGoudetstandsinagreenendofavalley，withChateauBeaufortoppositeuponarockysteep，andthestream，asclearascrystal，lyinginadeeppoolbetweenthem。Aboveandbelow，youmayhearitwimplingoverthestones，anamiablestriplingofariver，whichitseemsabsurdtocalltheLoire。Onallsides，Goudetisshutinbymountains；
rockyfootpaths，practicableatbestfordonkeys，joinittotheouterworldofFrance；andthemenandwomendrinkandswear，intheirgreencorner，orlookupatthesnow-cladpeaksinwinterfromthethresholdoftheirhomes，inanisolation，youwouldthink，likethatofHomer'sCyclops。Butitisnotso；thepostmanreachesGoudetwiththeletter-bag；theaspiringyouthofGoudetarewithinaday'swalkoftherailwayatLePuy；andhereintheinnyoumayfindanengravedportraitofthehost'snephew，RegisSenac，'ProfessorofFencingandChampionofthetwoAmericas，'adistinctiongainedbyhim，alongwiththesumoffivehundreddollars，atTammanyHall，NewYork，onthe10thApril1876。
Ihurriedovermymiddaymeal，andwasearlyforthagain。But，alas，asweclimbedtheinterminablehillupontheotherside，'Proot!'seemedtohavelostitsvirtue。Iprootedlikealion，I
prootedmellifluouslylikeasucking-dove；butModestinewouldbeneithersoftenednorintimidated。Shehelddoggedlytoherpace；
nothingbutablowwouldmoveher，andthatonlyforasecond。I
mustfollowatherheels，incessantlybe-labouring。Amoment'spauseinthisignobletoil，andsherelapsedintoherownprivategait。IthinkIneverheardofanyoneinasmeanasituation。I
mustreachthelakeofBouchet，whereImeanttocamp，beforesundown，and，tohaveevenahopeofthis，Imustinstantlymaltreatthisuncomplaininganimal。Thesoundofmyownblowssickenedme。Once，whenIlookedather，shehadafaintresemblancetoaladyofmyacquaintancewhoformerlyloadedmewithkindness；andthisincreasedmyhorrorofmycruelty。
Tomakemattersworse，weencounteredanotherdonkey，rangingatwillupontheroadside；andthisotherdonkeychancedtobeagentleman。HeandModestinemetnickeringforjoy，andIhadtoseparatethepairandbeatdowntheiryoungromancewitharenewedandfeverishbastinado。Iftheotherdonkeyhadhadtheheartofamaleunderhishide，hewouldhavefallenuponmetoothandhoof；
andthiswasakindofconsolation-hewasplainlyunworthyofModestine'saffection。Buttheincidentsaddenedme，asdideverythingthatspokeofmydonkey'ssex。
Itwasblazinghotupthevalley，windless，withvehementsunuponmyshoulders；andIhadtolaboursoconsistentlywithmystickthatthesweatranintomyeyes。Everyfiveminutes，too，thepack，thebasket，andthepilot-coatwouldtakeanuglyslewtoonesideortheother；andIhadtostopModestine，justwhenIhadgothertoatolerablepaceofabouttwomilesanhour，totug，push，shoulder，andreadjusttheload。Andatlast，inthevillageofUssel，saddleandall，thewholehypothecturnedroundandgrovelledinthedustbelowthedonkey'sbelly。She，nonebetterpleased，incontinentlydrewupandseemedtosmile；andapartyofoneman，twowomen，andtwochildrencameup，and，standingroundmeinahalf-circle，encouragedherbytheirexample。
Ihadthedevil'sowntroubletogetthethingrighted；andtheinstantIhaddoneso，withouthesitation，ittoppledandfelldownupontheotherside。JudgeifIwashot!Andyetnotahandwasofferedtoassistme。Theman，indeed，toldmeIoughttohaveapackageofadifferentshape。Isuggested，ifheknewnothingbettertothepointinmypredicament，hemightholdhistongue。
Andthegood-natureddogagreedwithmesmilingly。Itwasthemostdespicablefix。ImustplainlycontentmyselfwiththepackforModestine，andtakethefollowingitemsformyownshareoftheportage:acane，aquart-flask，apilot-jacketheavilyweightedinthepockets，twopoundsofblackbread，andanopenbasketfullofmeatsandbottles。IbelieveImaysayIamnotdevoidofgreatnessofsoul；forIdidnotrecoilfromthisinfamousburden。
Idisposedit，Heavenknowshow，soastobemildlyportable，andthenproceededtosteerModestinethroughthevillage。Shetried，aswasindeedherinvariablehabit，toentereveryhouseandeverycourtyardinthewholelength；and，encumberedasIwas，withoutahandtohelpmyself，nowordscanrenderanideaofmydifficulties。Apriest，withsixorsevenothers，wasexaminingachurchinprocessofrepair，andheandhisacolyteslaughedloudlyastheysawmyplight。
IrememberedhavinglaughedmyselfwhenIhadseengoodmenstrugglingwithadversityinthepersonofajackass，andtherecollectionfilledmewithpenitence。Thatwasinmyoldlightdays，beforethistroublecameuponme。GodknowsatleastthatI
shallneverlaughagain，thoughtI。Butoh，whatacruelthingisafarcetothoseengagedinit!
Alittleoutofthevillage，Modestine，filledwiththedemon，setherheartuponaby-road，andpositivelyrefusedtoleaveit。I
droppedallmybundles，and，Iamashamedtosay，struckthepoorsinnertwiceacrosstheface。Itwaspitifultoseeherliftherheadwithshuteyes，asifwaitingforanotherblow。Icameverynearcrying；butIdidawiserthingthanthat，andsatsquarelydownbytheroadsidetoconsidermysituationunderthecheerfulinfluenceoftobaccoandanipofbrandy。Modestine，inthemeanwhile，munchedsomeblackbreadwithacontritehypocriticalair。ItwasplainthatImustmakeasacrificetothegodsofshipwreck。Ithrewawaytheemptybottledestinedtocarrymilk；I
threwawaymyownwhitebread，and，disdainingtoactbygeneralaverage，kepttheblackbreadforModestine；lastly，Ithrewawaythecoldlegofmuttonandtheegg-whisk，althoughthislastwasdeartomyheart。ThusIfoundroomforeverythinginthebasket，andevenstowedtheboating-coatonthetop。BymeansofanendofcordIslungitunderonearm；andalthoughthecordcutmyshoulder，andthejackethungalmosttotheground，itwaswithaheartgreatlylightenedthatIsetforthagain。
IhadnowanarmfreetothrashModestine，andcruellyIchastisedher。IfIweretoreachthelakesidebeforedark，shemustbestirherlittleshankstosometune。Alreadythesunhadgonedownintoawindy-lookingmist；andalthoughtherewerestillafewstreaksofgoldfarofftotheeastonthehillsandtheblackfir-woods，allwascoldandgreyaboutouronwardpath。Aninfinityoflittlecountryby-roadsledhitherandthitheramongthefields。Itwasthemostpointlesslabyrinth。Icouldseemydestinationoverhead，orratherthepeakthatdominatesit；butchooseasIpleased，theroadsalwaysendedbyturningawayfromit，andsneakingbacktowardsthevalley，ornorthwardalongthemarginofthehills。
Thefailinglight，thewaningcolour，thenaked，unhomely，stonycountrythroughwhichIwastravelling，threwmeintosomedespondency。Ipromiseyou，thestickwasnotidle；IthinkeverydecentstepthatModestinetookmusthavecostmeatleasttwoemphaticblows。Therewasnotanothersoundintheneighbourhoodbutthatofmyunwearyingbastinado。
Suddenly，inthemidstofmytoils，theloadoncemorebitthedust，and，asbyenchantment，allthecordsweresimultaneouslyloosened，andtheroadscatteredwithmydearpossessions。Thepackingwastobeginagainfromthebeginning；andasIhadtoinventanewandbettersystem，IdonotdoubtbutIlosthalfanhour。ItbegantobeduskinearnestasIreachedawildernessofturfandstones。Ithadtheairofbeingaroadwhichshouldleadeverywhereatthesametime；andIwasfallingintosomethingnotunlikedespairwhenIsawtwofiguresstalkingtowardsmeoverthestones。Theywalkedonebehindtheotherliketramps，buttheirpacewasremarkable。Thesonledtheway，atall，ill-made，sombre，Scottish-lookingman；themotherfollowed，allinherSunday'sbest，withanelegantlyembroideredribbontohercap，andanewfelthatatop，andproffering，asshestrodealongwithkiltedpetticoats，astringofobsceneandblasphemousoaths。
Ihailedtheson，andaskedhimmydirection。Hepointedlooselywestandnorth-west，mutteredaninaudiblecomment，and，withoutslackeninghispaceforaninstant，stalkedon，ashewasgoing，rightathwartmypath。Themotherfollowedwithoutsomuchasraisingherhead。Ishoutedandshoutedafterthem，buttheycontinuedtoscalethehillside，andturnedadeafeartomyoutcries。Atlast，leavingModestinebyherself，Iwasconstrainedtorunafterthem，hailingthewhile。TheystoppedasIdrewnear，themotherstillcursing；andIcouldseeshewasahandsome，motherly，respectable-lookingwoman。Thesononcemoreansweredmeroughlyandinaudibly，andwasforsettingoutagain。ButthistimeIsimplycollaredthemother，whowasnearestme，and，apologisingformyviolence，declaredthatIcouldnotletthemgountiltheyhadputmeonmyroad。Theywereneitherofthemoffended-rathermollifiedthanotherwise；toldmeIhadonlytofollowthem；andthenthemotheraskedmewhatIwantedbythelakeatsuchanhour。Ireplied，intheScottishmanner，byinquiringifshehadfartogoherself。Shetoldme，withanotheroath，thatshehadanhourandahalf'sroadbeforeher。Andthen，withoutsalutation，thepairstrodeforwardagainupthehillsideinthegatheringdusk。
IreturnedforModestine，pushedherbrisklyforward，and，afterasharpascentoftwentyminutes，reachedtheedgeofaplateau。Theview，lookingbackonmyday'sjourney，wasbothwildandsad。
MountMezencandthepeaksbeyondSt。Julienstoodoutintrenchantgloomagainstacoldglitterintheeast；andtheinterveningfieldofhillshadfallentogetherintoonebroadwashofshadow，excepthereandtheretheoutlineofawoodedsugar-loafinblack，hereandthereawhiteirregularpatchtorepresentacultivatedfarm，andhereandthereablotwheretheLoire，theGazeille，ortheLaussonnewanderedinagorge。
Soonwewereonahigh-road，andsurpriseseizedonmymindasI
beheldavillageofsomemagnitudecloseathand；forIhadbeentoldthattheneighbourhoodofthelakewasuninhabitedexceptbytrout。Theroadsmokedinthetwilightwithchildrendrivinghomecattlefromthefields；andapairofmountedstride-leggedwomen，hatandcapandall，dashedpastmeatahammeringtrotfromthecantonwheretheyhadbeentochurchandmarket。IaskedoneofthechildrenwhereIwas。AtBouchetSt。Nicolas，hetoldme。
Thither，aboutamilesouthofmydestination，andontheothersideofarespectablesummit，hadtheseconfusedroadsandtreacherouspeasantryconductedme。Myshoulderwascut，sothatithurtsharply；myarmachedliketoothachefromperpetualbeating；Igaveupthelakeandmydesigntocamp，andaskedfortheAUBERGE。
IHAVEAGOAD
THEAUBERGEofBouchetSt。NicolaswasamongtheleastpretentiousIhaveevervisited；butIsawmanymoreofthelikeuponmyjourney。Indeed，itwastypicaloftheseFrenchhighlands。
Imagineacottageoftwostories，withabenchbeforethedoor；thestableandkitcheninasuite，sothatModestineandIcouldheareachotherdining；furnitureoftheplainest，earthernfloors，asinglebedchamberfortravellers，andthatwithoutanyconveniencebutbeds。Inthekitchencookingandeatinggoforwardsidebyside，andthefamilysleepatnight。Anyonewhohasafancytowashmustdosoinpublicatthecommontable。Thefoodissometimesspare；hardfishandomelettehavebeenmyportionmorethanonce；thewineisofthesmallest，thebrandyabominabletoman；andthevisitofafatsow，groutingunderthetableandrubbingagainstyourlegs，isnoimpossibleaccompanimenttodinner。
Butthepeopleoftheinn，inninecasesoutoften，showthemselvesfriendlyandconsiderate。Assoonasyoucrossthedoorsyouceasetobeastranger；andalthoughthesepeasantryarerudeandforbiddingonthehighway，theyshowatinctureofkindbreedingwhenyousharetheirhearth。AtBouchet，forinstance，I
uncorkedmybottleofBeaujolais，andaskedthehosttojoinme。
Hewouldtakebutlittle。
'Iamanamateurofsuchwine，doyousee？'hesaid，'andIamcapableofleavingyounotenough。'
Inthesehedge-innsthetravellerisexpectedtoeatwithhisownknife；unlessheask，nootherwillbesupplied:withaglass，awhangofbread，andanironfork，thetableiscompletelylaid。MyknifewascordiallyadmiredbythelandlordofBouchet，andthespringfilledhimwithwonder。
'Ishouldneverhaveguessedthat，'hesaid。'Iwouldbet，'headded，weighingitinhishand，'thatthiscostyounotlessthanfivefrancs。'
WhenItoldhimithadcostmetwenty，hisjawdropped。
Hewasamild，handsome，sensible，friendlyoldman，astonishinglyignorant。Hiswife，whowasnotsopleasantinhermanners，knewhowtoread，althoughIdonotsupposesheeverdidso。Shehadashareofbrainsandspokewithacuttingemphasis，likeonewhoruledtheroast。
'Mymanknowsnothing，'shesaid，withanangrynod；'heislikethebeasts。'
Andtheoldgentlemansignifiedacquiescencewithhishead。Therewasnocontemptonherpart，andnoshameonhis；thefactswereacceptedloyally，andnomoreaboutthematter。
Iwastightlycross-examinedaboutmyjourney；andtheladyunderstoodinamoment，andsketchedoutwhatIshouldputintomybookwhenIgothome。'Whetherpeopleharvestornotinsuchorsuchaplace；iftherewereforests；studiesofmanners；what，forexample，Iandthemasterofthehousesaytoyou；thebeautiesofNature，andallthat。'Andsheinterrogatedmewithalook。
'Itisjustthat，'saidI。
'Yousee，'sheaddedtoherhusband，'Iunderstoodthat。'
Theywerebothmuchinterestedbythestoryofmymisadventures。
'Inthemorning，'saidthehusband，'Iwillmakeyousomethingbetterthanyourcane。Suchabeastasthatfeelsnothing；itisintheproverb-DURCOMMEUNANE；youmightbeatherinsensiblewithacudgel，andyetyouwouldarrivenowhere。'
Somethingbetter!Ilittleknewwhathewasoffering。
Thesleeping-roomwasfurnishedwithtwobeds。Ihadone；andI
willownIwasalittleabashedtofindayoungmanandhiswifeandchildintheactofmountingintotheother。Thiswasmyfirstexperienceofthesort；andifIamalwaystofeelequallysillyandextraneous，IprayGoditbemylastaswell。Ikeptmyeyestomyself，andknownothingofthewomanexceptthatshehadbeautifularms，andseemednowhitembarrassedbymyappearance。
Asamatteroffact，thesituationwasmoretryingtomethantothepair。Apairkeepeachotherincountenance；itisthesinglegentlemanwhohastoblush。ButIcouldnothelpattributingmysentimentstothehusband，andsoughttoconciliatehistolerancewithacupofbrandyfrommyflask。HetoldmethathewasacooperofAlaistravellingtoSt。Etienneinsearchofwork，andthatinhissparemomentshefollowedthefatalcallingofamakerofmatches。Mehereadilyenoughdivinedtobeabrandymerchant。
IwasupfirstinthemorningMonday，September23rd，andhastenedmytoiletteguiltily，soastoleaveaclearfieldformadam，thecooper'swife。Idrankabowlofmilk，andsetofftoexploretheneighbourhoodofBouchet。Itwasperishingcold，agrey，windy，wintrymorning；mistycloudsflewfastandlow；thewindpipedoverthenakedplatform；andtheonlyspeckofcolourwasawaybehindMountMezencandtheeasternhills，wheretheskystillworetheorangeofthedawn。
Itwasfiveinthemorning，andfourthousandfeetabovethesea；
andIhadtoburymyhandsinmypocketsandtrot。Peopleweretroopingouttothelaboursofthefieldbytwosandthrees，andallturnedroundtostareuponthestranger。Ihadseenthemcomingbacklastnight，Isawthemgoingafieldagain；andtherewasthelifeofBouchetinanutshell。
WhenIcamebacktotheinnforabitofbreakfast，thelandladywasinthekitchencombingoutherdaughter'shair；andImadehermycomplimentsuponitsbeauty。
'Ohno，'saidthemother；'itisnotsobeautifulasitoughttobe。Look，itistoofine。'
Thusdoesawisepeasantryconsoleitselfunderadversephysicalcircumstances，and，byastartlingdemocraticprocess，thedefectsofthemajoritydecidethetypeofbeauty。
'Andwhere，'saidI，'ismonsieur？'
'Themasterofthehouseisupstairs，'sheanswered，'makingyouagoad。'
Blessedbethemanwhoinventedgoads!BlessedtheinnkeeperofBouchetSt。Nicolas，whointroducedmetotheiruse!Thisplainwand，withaneighthofaninchofpin，wasindeedasceptrewhenheputitinmyhands。ThenceforwardModestinewasmyslave。A
prick，andshepassedthemostinvitingstabledoor。Aprick，andshebrokeforthintoagallantlittletrotletthatdevouredthemiles。Itwasnotaremarkablespeed，whenallwassaid；andwetookfourhourstocovertenmilesatthebestofit。Butwhataheavenlychangesinceyesterday!Nomorewieldingoftheuglycudgel；nomoreflailingwithanachingarm；nomorebroadswordexercise，butadiscreetandgentlemanlyfence。AndwhatalthoughnowandthenadropofbloodshouldappearonModestine'smouse-
colouredwedge-likerump？Ishouldhavepreferreditotherwise，indeed；butyesterday'sexploitshadpurgedmyheartofallhumanity。Theperverselittledevil，sinceshewouldnotbetakenwithkindness，mustevengowithpricking。
Itwasbleakandbittercold，and，exceptacavalcadeofstride-
leggedladiesandapairofpost-runners，theroadwasdeadsolitaryallthewaytoPradelles。Iscarcerememberanincidentbutone。Ahandsomefoalwithabellabouthisneckcamecharginguptousuponastretchofcommon，sniffedtheairmartiallyasoneabouttodogreatdeeds，andsuddenlythinkingotherwiseinhisgreenyoungheart，putaboutandgallopedoffashehadcome，thebelltinklinginthewind。ForalongwhileafterwardsIsawhisnobleattitudeashedrewup，andheardthenoteofhisbell；andwhenIstruckthehigh-road，thesongofthetelegraph-wiresseemedtocontinuethesamemusic。
Pradellesstandsonahillside，highabovetheAllier，surroundedbyrichmeadows。Theywerecuttingaftermathonallsides，whichgavetheneighbourhood，thisgustyautumnmorning，anuntimelysmellofhay。OntheoppositebankoftheAllierthelandkeptmountingformilestothehorizon:atannedandsallowautumnlandscape，withblackblotsoffir-woodandwhiteroadswanderingthroughthehills。Overallthisthecloudsshedauniformandpurplishshadow，sadandsomewhatmenacing，exaggeratingheightanddistance，andthrowingintostillhigherreliefthetwistedribbonsofthehighway。Itwasacheerlessprospect，butonestimulatingtoatraveller。ForIwasnowuponthelimitofVelay，andallthatIbeheldlayinanothercounty-wildGevaudan，mountainous，uncultivated，andbutrecentlydisforestedfromterrorofthewolves。
Wolves，alas，likebandits，seemtofleethetraveller'sadvance；
andyoumaytrudgethroughallourcomfortableEurope，andnotmeetwithanadventureworththename。Buthere，ifanywhere，amanwasonthefrontiersofhope。Forthiswasthelandoftheever-
memorableBEAST，theNapoleonBonaparteofwolves。Whatacareerwashis!HelivedtenmonthsatfreequartersinGevaudanandVivarais；heatewomenandchildrenand'shepherdessescelebratedfortheirbeauty'；hepursuedarmedhorsemen；hehasbeenseenatbroadnoondaychasingapost-chaiseandoutrideralongtheking'shigh-road，andchaiseandoutriderfleeingbeforehimatthegallop。Hewasplacardedlikeapoliticaloffender，andtenthousandfrancswereofferedforhishead。Andyet，whenhewasshotandsenttoVersailles，behold!acommonwolf，andevensmallforthat。'ThoughIcouldreachfrompoletopole，'sangAlexanderPope；theLittleCorporalshookEurope；andifallwolveshadbeenasthiswolf，theywouldhavechangedthehistoryofman。M。ElieBerthethasmadehimtheheroofanovel，whichIhaveread，anddonotwishtoreadagain。
Ihurriedovermylunch，andwasproofagainstthelandlady'sdesirethatIshouldvisitourLadyofPradelles，'whoperformedmanymiracles，althoughshewasofwood'；andbeforethree-quartersofanhourIwasgoadingModestinedownthesteepdescentthatleadstoLangogneontheAllier。Onbothsidesoftheroad，inbigdustyfields，farmerswerepreparingfornextspring。Everyfiftyyardsayokeofgreat-neckedstolidoxenwerepatientlyhalingattheplough。Isawoneofthesemildformidableservantsoftheglebe，whotookasuddeninterestinModestineandme。Thefurrowdownwhichhewasjourneyinglayatanangletotheroad，andhisheadwassolidlyfixedtotheyokelikethoseofcaryatidesbelowaponderouscornice；buthescrewedroundhisbighonesteyesandfolloweduswitharuminatinglook，untilhismasterbadehimturntheploughandproceedtoreascendthefield。Fromallthesefurrowingploughshares，fromthefeetofoxen，fromalabourerhereandtherewhowasbreakingthedryclodswithahoe，thewindcarriedawayathindustlikesomuchsmoke。Itwasafine，busy，breathing，rusticlandscape；andasIcontinuedtodescend，thehighlandsofGevaudankeptmountinginfrontofmeagainstthesky。
IhadcrossedtheLoirethedaybefore；nowIwastocrosstheAllier；soneararethesetwoconfluentsintheiryouth。JustatthebridgeofLangogne，asthelong-promisedrainwasbeginningtofall，alassieofsomesevenoreightaddressedmeinthesacramentalphrase，'D'OU'ST-CE-QUEVOUSVENEZ？'Shediditwithsohighanairthatshesetmelaughing；andthiscuthertothequick。Shewasevidentlyonewhoreckonedonrespect，andstoodlookingaftermeinsilentdudgeon，asIcrossedthebridgeandenteredthecountyofGevaudan。
UPPERGEVAUDAN
Thewayalsoherewasverywearisomethroughdirtandslabbiness；
norwasthereonallthisgroundsomuchasoneinnorvictualling-
housewhereintorefreshthefeeblersort。
PILGRIM'SPROGRESS。
ACAMPINTHEDARK
THEnextdayTuesday，September24th，itwastwoo'clockintheafternoonbeforeIgotmyjournalwrittenupandmyknapsackrepaired，forIwasdeterminedtocarrymyknapsackinthefutureandhavenomoreadowithbaskets；andhalfanhourafterwardsI
setoutforLeCheylardl'Eveque，aplaceonthebordersoftheforestofMercoire。Aman，Iwastold，shouldwalkthereinanhourandahalf；andIthoughtitscarcetooambitioustosupposethatamanencumberedwithadonkeymightcoverthesamedistanceinfourhours。
AllthewayupthelonghillfromLangogneitrainedandhailedalternately；thewindkeptfresheningsteadily，althoughslowly；
plentifulhurryingclouds-somedraggingveilsofstraightrain-
shower，othersmassedandluminousasthoughpromisingsnow-
careeredoutofthenorthandfollowedmealongmyway。IwassoonoutofthecultivatedbasinoftheAllier，andawayfromtheploughingoxen，andsuch-likesightsofthecountry。Moor，heatherymarsh，tractsofrockandpines，woodsofbirchalljewelledwiththeautumnyellow，hereandthereafewnakedcottagesandbleakfields，-thesewerethecharactersofthecountry。Hillandvalleyfollowedvalleyandhill；thelittlegreenandstonycattle-trackswanderedinandoutofoneanother，splitintothreeorfour，diedawayinmarshyhollows，andbeganagainsporadicallyonhillsidesoratthebordersofawood。
TherewasnodirectroadtoCheylard，anditwasnoeasyaffairtomakeapassageinthisunevencountryandthroughthisintermittentlabyrinthoftracks。ItmusthavebeenaboutfourwhenIstruckSagnerousse，andwentonmywayrejoicinginasurepointofdeparture。Twohoursafterwards，theduskrapidlyfalling，inalullofthewind，Iissuedfromafir-woodwhereIhadlongbeenwandering，andfound，notthelooked-forvillage，butanothermarishbottomamongrough-and-tumblehills。ForsometimepastI
hadheardtheringingofcattle-bellsahead；andnow，asIcameoutoftheskirtsofthewood，Isawnearuponadozencowsandperhapsasmanymoreblackfigures，whichIconjecturedtobechildren，althoughthemisthadalmostunrecognisablyexaggeratedtheirforms。Thesewereallsilentlyfollowingeachotherroundandroundinacircle，nowtakinghands，nowbreakingupwithchainsandreverences。Adanceofchildrenappealstoveryinnocentandlivelythoughts；but，atnightfallonthemarshes，thethingwaseerieandfantastictobehold。EvenI，whoamwellenoughreadinHerbertSpencer，feltasortofsilencefallforaninstantonmymind。
Thenext，IwasprickingModestineforward，andguidingherlikeanunrulyshipthroughtheopen。Inapath，shewentdoggedlyaheadofherownaccord，asbeforeafairwind；butonceontheturforamongheather，andthebrutebecamedemented。Thetendencyoflosttravellerstogoroundinacirclewasdevelopedinhertothedegreeofpassion，andittookallthesteeringIhadinmetokeepevenadecentlystraightcoursethroughasinglefield。
WhileIwasthusdesperatelytackingthroughthebog，childrenandcattlebegantodisperse，untilonlyapairofgirlsremainedbehind。FromtheseIsoughtdirectiononmypath。Thepeasantryingeneralwerebutlittledisposedtocounselawayfarer。Oneolddevilsimplyretiredintohishouse，andbarricadedthedooronmyapproach；andImightbeatandshoutmyselfhoarse，heturnedadeafear。Another，havinggivenmeadirectionwhich，asIfoundafterwards，Ihadmisunderstood，complacentlywatchedmegoingwrongwithoutaddingasign。HedidnotcareastalkofparsleyifIwanderedallnightuponthehills!Asforthesetwogirls，theywereapairofimpudentslysluts，withnotathoughtbutmischief。
Oneputouthertongueatme，theotherbademefollowthecows；
andtheybothgiggledandjoggedeachother'selbows。TheBeastofGevaudanateaboutahundredchildrenofthisdistrict；Ibegantothinkofhimwithsympathy。
Leavingthegirls，Ipushedonthroughthebog，andgotintoanotherwoodanduponawell-markedroad。Itgrewdarkeranddarker。Modestine，suddenlybeginningtosmellmischief，betteredthepaceofherownaccord，andfromthattimeforwardgavemenotrouble。ItwasthefirstsignofintelligenceIhadoccasiontoremarkinher。Atthesametime，thewindfreshenedintohalfagale，andanotherheavydischargeofraincameflyingupoutofthenorth。AttheothersideofthewoodIsightedsomeredwindowsinthedusk。ThiswasthehamletofFouzilhic；threehousesonahillside，nearawoodofbirches。HereIfoundadelightfuloldman，whocamealittlewaywithmeintheraintoputmesafelyontheroadforCheylard。Hewouldhearofnoreward；butshookhishandsabovehisheadalmostasifinmenace，andrefusedvolublyandshrilly，inunmitigatedPATOIS。
Allseemedrightatlast。Mythoughtsbegantoturnupondinnerandafireside，andmyheartwasagreeablysoftenedinmybosom。
Alas，andIwasonthebrinkofnewandgreatermiseries!
Suddenly，atasingleswoop，thenightfell。Ihavebeenabroadinmanyablacknight，butneverinablacker。Aglimmerofrocks，aglimmerofthetrackwhereitwaswellbeaten，acertainfleecydensity，ornightwithinnight，foratree，-thiswasallthatI
coulddiscriminate。Theskywassimplydarknessoverhead；eventheflyingcloudspursuedtheirwayinvisiblytohumaneyesight。I
couldnotdistinguishmyhandatarm's-lengthfromthetrack，normygoad，atthesamedistance，fromthemeadowsorthesky。
SoontheroadthatIwasfollowingsplit，afterthefashionofthecountry，intothreeorfourinapieceofrockymeadow。SinceModestinehadshownsuchafancyforbeatenroads，Itriedherinstinctinthispredicament。Buttheinstinctofanassiswhatmightbeexpectedfromthename；inhalfaminuteshewasclamberingroundandroundamongsomeboulders，aslostadonkeyasyouwouldwishtosee。IshouldhavecampedlongbeforehadIbeenproperlyprovided；butasthiswastobesoshortastage，Ihadbroughtnowine，nobreadformyself，andlittleoverapoundformyladyfriend。Addtothis，thatIandModestinewerebothhandsomelywettedbytheshowers。Butnow，ifIcouldhavefoundsomewater，Ishouldhavecampedatonceinspiteofall。Water，however，beingentirelyabsent，exceptintheformofrain，I
determinedtoreturntoFouzilhic，andaskaguidealittlefartheronmyway-'alittlefartherlendthyguidinghand。'
Thethingwaseasytodecide，hardtoaccomplish。InthissensibleroaringblacknessIwassureofnothingbutthedirectionofthewind。TothisIsetmyface；theroadhaddisappeared，andIwentacrosscountry，nowinmarshyopens，nowbaffledbywallsunscalabletoModestine，untilIcameoncemoreinsightofsomeredwindows。Thistimetheyweredifferentlydisposed。ItwasnotFouzilhic，butFouzilhac，ahamletlittledistantfromtheotherinspace，butworldsawayinthespiritofitsinhabitants。ItiedModestinetoagate，andgropedforward，stumblingamongrocks，plungingmid-leginbog，untilIgainedtheentranceofthevillage。Inthefirstlightedhousetherewasawomanwhowouldnotopentome。Shecoulddonothing，shecriedtomethroughthedoor，beingaloneandlame；butifIwouldapplyatthenexthouse，therewasamanwhocouldhelpmeifhehadamind。
Theycametothenextdoorinforce，aman，twowomen，andagirl，andbroughtapairoflanternstoexaminethewayfarer。Themanwasnotill-looking，buthadashiftysmile。Heleanedagainstthedoorpost，andheardmestatemycase。AllIaskedwasaguideasfarasCheylard。
'C'ESTQUE，VOYEZ-VOUS，ILFAITNOIR，'saidhe。
Itoldhimthatwasjustmyreasonforrequiringhelp。
'Iunderstandthat，'saidhe，lookinguncomfortable；'MAIS-C'EST-
DELAPEINE。'
Iwaswillingtopay，Isaid。Heshookhishead。Iroseashighastenfrancs；buthecontinuedtoshakehishead。'Nameyourownprice，then，'saidI。
'CEN'ESTPASCA，'hesaidatlength，andwithevidentdifficulty；
'butIamnotgoingtocrossthedoor-MAISJENESORTIRAIPASDE
LAPORTE。'
Igrewalittlewarm，andaskedhimwhatheproposedthatIshoulddo。
'WhereareyougoingbeyondCheylard？'heaskedbywayofanswer。
'Thatisnoaffairofyours，'Ireturned，forIwasnotgoingtoindulgehisbestialcuriosity；'itchangesnothinginmypresentpredicament。'
'C'ESTVRAI，CA，'heacknowledged，withalaugh；'OUI，C'ESTVRAI。
ETD'OUVENEZ-VOUS？'
AbettermanthanImighthavefeltnettled。
'Oh，'saidI，'Iamnotgoingtoansweranyofyourquestions，soyoumayspareyourselfthetroubleofputtingthem。Iamlateenoughalready；Iwanthelp。Ifyouwillnotguidemeyourself，atleasthelpmetofindsomeoneelsewhowill。'
'Holdon，'hecriedsuddenly。'Wasitnotyouwhopassedinthemeadowwhileitwasstillday？'
'Yes，yes，'saidthegirl，whomIhadnothithertorecognised；'itwasmonsieur；Itoldhimtofollowthecow。'
'Asforyou，mademoiselle，'saidI，'youareaFARCEUSE。'
'And，'addedtheman，'whatthedevilhaveyoudonetobestillhere？'