It'slikelookingoveraprecipiceallthetime。IwassogladwhenIgotdownthatIsangwithglee。Ihateworklikethat，andtomakeitworseItookeverybody'spictureontopofthePyramid，andforgottohaveoneofthemtakeme，sothereisnowaytoproveIeverwentup。LittleandIhiredtwodonkeysandcalledthem"Gallegher"and"VanBibber"andracedthem。Mydonkeywassolittlethattheycouldn'tseehim——onlyhisears。Gallegherwon。Thedonkey-boyscalleditVonBebey，soIdon'tthinkitwillhelpthesaleofthebook。
TodaywewenttocallontheKhedive。Itwasveryinformalandtoodemocratictosuitmytastes。Wewentthroughalineofhisbodyguardinthehall，andthemasterofceremoniestookusupseverallowbutwidestairwaystoahall。Inthehallwasalittlefatyoungmaninafrockcoatandafez，andheshookhandswithus，andwalkedintoanotherroomandweallsatdownonchairscoveredwithwhitemuslin。ItalkedandLittletalkedaboutmeandtheKhedivepretendedtobeverymuchhonored，andsaidtheAmericanwhohadcomeoverafterourrebellionhaddonemorefortheofficersinhisarmythanhadanyoneelse，meaningtheEnglish。HedidnotsaythatbecausewewereAmericans，butbecausehehatestheEnglish。Hestruckmeasbeingstubborn，whichisonesideofstupidnessandyetnotstupid，andIoccasionallywokehimtoburstsofenthusiasmovertheSoudanese。Hisburstswerechiefly"Ali。"Littleseemedtoamusehimverymuch，andLittletreatedhimexactlylikealittleboywhoneededtobecheeredup。IthinkinonewayitwasthemostcuriouscontrastIeversaw。"Ed"LittleofAbilene，Kansas，tellingtherulerofEgyptnottoworry，thathehadplentyofyearsinwhichtoliveandthathewouldgetaheadofthemallyet。
Thosewerenothiswords，butthatwasthetone，hewasperfectlyfriendlyandsincereaboutit。
ThisplaceappealstomeasaboutthebestplacewithwhichtogetmixedupwiththatIknow，andI'vegoneoveragreatmanymapssinceIlefthomeandknowjusthowsmalltheworldis。So，IsenttheKhedivemybooksafterhavingaskedhispermission，andreceivedthemostabjectthanks。AndasCromercalledonme，Iamgoingtodroparoundonhimwithafewofthem。Somedaytherewillbefinethingsgoingonhere，andthereisonlyoneGod，andLordCromerishisProphetinthiscountry。TheythinkthatMohammedisbuttheyarewrong。Heisaverybigman。ThedayhesenthisultimatumtotheKhedivetellinghimtodismissFactaPashaandputbackRiazPasha，hewentoutinfullviewoftheGezerikdriveandplayedlawntennis。AnymanwhocancableforthreethousandmoretroopstoMaltaandstopatransportfulloftwothousandmoreatAdenwithonehand，andbangtennisballsaboutwiththeother，isgoinginthelongruntogetaheadofastoutlittleboyinaredfez。
Itisgettingawfullyhothere，almosthotenoughforme，andIcanlayasidemyovercoatbyteno'clockinthemorning。
Everyoneelsehasbeeninflannelsandpithhelmets，butastheyhadtowearovercoatsatnightIcouldnotseetheadvantageofthecostume。
DICK。
IopenthistosaythatALLofyourlettershavejustcome，soIhaveintoxicatedmyselfwiththemforthelasthourandcangooverthemagaintomorrow。Icannottellyou，dearest，whatadelightyourlettersareandhowIenjoytheclippings。
IthinkofyouallthetimeandhowyouwouldlovethisBiblelandandseeingtheplaceswherePharaoh'sdaughterfoundMoses，andhearingpeopletalkofSt。PaulandtheplaguesofEgyptandJosephandMaryjustasthoughtheyhadlivedyesterday。IhaveseentwoSt。Johnsalready，withlonghairandmelancholywildeyesandbarebreastsandlegs，withsheepskincovering，eatingfigsandpreachingtheirgospel。
Yesterdaytwomencamerunningintotownandtoldoneoftheprieststhattheyhadseenthenewmooninacertainwell，andthepriestproclaimedamonthoffasting，andthemenwhopulledusupthePyramidhadtorestbecausetheyhadnoteatenordrunkallday。Atsixasheikcalledfromthevillageandallthedonkey——boysandguidesaroundtheSphinxrantogetwaterandcoffeeandfood。Thinkofthat——oftwomenrunningthroughthestreettosaythattheyhadseenthenewmooninawell，wheneveryshopsellsWaterburywatchesandthepeoplewhopassedthemweredrivingdogcartswithEnglishcoachmenintop-bootsbehind。
Isthereanyotherplaceasincongruousasthis，asoldandasnew？
DICK。
ATHENS，March30，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
IamnowinAthens，howIgothereisimmaterial。SufficeittosaythatneverinallmylifewasIsoillasIwasinthetwodayscrossingfromAlexandriatoPiraeus，whichIdidwithtwoothermeninthesamecabinmoreillthanIandprayingandswearingandgroaningallthetime。"Itwasawful。"
"IhavecrossedinmanyshipsupontheseasAndsomeofthemweregoodandsomewerenot；
InGerman，P&O'sandGenoese，ButtheKhedive'swastheworstoneofthelot。
Wenevergotamoment'speaceinherForeverybody'dhowlorprayorbellow；
Shethrewusonourheadsoronourknees，Andturnedusallanunbecomingyellow。"
Athensisasmalltownbutfine。Itischieflyyellowhouseswithredroofs，andmountainsaroundit，whichremindyouofpicturesyouhaveseenwhenayouth。AlsoolivetreesandstraightblackpinesandtheAcropolis。ThereisnotmuchofitleftasfarasIcanseefromthecity，butwhatthereisisenoughtomakeyouwishyouhadbrushedupyourGreekhistory。IhavenowreachedtheplacewherePanhasacave，wherethemanvotedagainstAristidesbecausehewashumanlytiredofhearinghimcalledtheJustandwheretheMinotaurateyoungwomen。
WhatwasintheIsleofCretebuttherockfromwhichthefatherofTheseusthrewhimself——isstillhere!AlsothehilluponwhichPaulstoodandtoldtheAthenianstheyweretoosuperstitious。Youcanimaginemyfeelingsatfindingallofthesethingsaretrue。AfterthisIamgoingtotheNorthPoletofindSantaClausandsorenewmyyouth。
IregrettosaythatitisrainingveryhardandAthensisnotsetforarainstorm。ItisalsocoldbutasIhavenotbeenwarmsinceIcrossedtheNorthRiverwithChas。amidcakesoficethatisofnoconsequence。WhenIcomehereagainIcomeinthesummer。Thegoodoldrulethatitiscoldinwinterandwarminsummerisagoodenoughruletofollow。Youhaveonlytotraveltofindouthowuniversallycoldwinteris。
lastnightIwasinCairo，IgotinacarriageanddroveoutalonetothePyramids。Itwasbeautifulmoonlight。IgotadonkeyandrodeuparoundthemandthenwalkedovertotheSphinx。Ihadneverunderstoodorseenitbefore。ItwasthecreepiestandmostimpressivethingIeverhadhappentome，I
dobelieve。Therewasnooneexceptthetwodonkey-boysandmyselfandtheSphinx。Allaboutwasthedesertandaboveitthepurpleskyandthewhitestarsandthegreatnegro'sheadinfrontofyouwithitspawsstretchedout，andthemoonlightturningitintoshadowsandwhitelines。IthinkIstoodtheresolongthatIgotsortofdizzy。ItwasjustasifIhadbeenthefirstmantostumbleacrossit，andIfeltthatIwaswaybackthousandsofyearsandthattheghostsofCaesarandNapoleonandCleopatraandtherestwereintheair。Thatwasworththeentiretriptome。Thisplacepromisestobemostexciting，theNewYorkartistsareallhere，theyarethemostjauntilydullpeopleIevermet。DoyouknowwhatImean？Theyareverynicebutsostupid。Idon'tletthembotherme。WhowasthechapwhowroteaboutthebottleofMalvoisie？becauseI
gotabottleofitforBREAKFASTanditisNOGOOD。Itislikesweetport。ButonaccountofthepoemanditsbeingvindupaysIgotit。
DearMother，Iwishyouwereherenowandenjoyingallthesebeautifulthings。IgotyouapresentinCairothatwillamuseyou。HadIstayedoninCairoIshouldhavehadmuchandmanymarksofdistinctionfromtheEnglish。LadyGower-Browne，whofoundoutfromthemthatIhadcalledandthattheyhaddonenothingexcepttoberude，raisedagreathueandcryandeverythingchanged。WhatshesaidofmeI
don'tknowbutitmadeamostamusingdifference。GeneralWalkergallopedahalfmileacrossthedeserttogivemehisowncopyofthedirectionsfortheshambattle，andIwastohavemetCromeratdinnertete-a-tete，andGeneralKitchenersentapologiesbytwoothergeneralsandallthesubalternscalledonmeinabody。ThatwasthedaybeforeIleft。I
don'tknowwhatLadyGower-Brownesaid，butitmadeachangewhichIamsorryIcouldnotavailmyselfofasIwantpoliticsaswellasmemories。
ThenexttimeIcomeIshallgotoevenfewerplacesandseemorepeople。
IftheHarpersdon'tlookoutourinterestswillclash。I
lookatitlikethis。IcanalwaysseetheoldhistoricalthingsandtakemychildrenuptheNile，butIwantnowtomakefriendswiththeMammonofunrighteousnessandthemenofthehour。Imaywanttooccupyanhourortwomyselfsomedayandtheycanhelpme。IfAmericastartsinannexingislandsshewillneedpeopletotellherhowitisgenerallydoneanditisgenerallydone，Ifind，bytheEnglish。ImaygiveupliteratureandstartannexingthingslikeAlexanderandCaesarandNapoleon。TheysaytherewillbeanothercrisisinCairoinamonthorso。IfthatbetrueIamallrightandsolidwithbothparties。ButithasgottobeworthwhileofcourseorIwon'tgoback。Thereisakinglivinginafinepalaceacrossthesquarefrommywindow，oneofhisofficersisnowchangingtheguardintherain。IhopetocallonthekingbecauseIlikehisguard。Theywearpetticoatsandtoesturnedupinfront。Don'tyoumindwhatIsayaboutlikingpoliticsanddon'tthinkIamnotenjoyingtheshowthings。I
haveacapacityforboththatissofarunsatisfied，andIamnowgoingoutintheraintotryandfindthepost-office。
Lotsoflove。
DICK。
IamwellandhavebeenwellexceptseasicksinceFebruaryP。S——Afuneralisjustpassingthewindowwiththecorpseexposedtoviewasisthequaintcustomhere，toaddtoitshorrortheyrougethefaceofthecorpseandeverybodykissesit。IntheGreekchurchtheyburncandlesforpeopleandthenumberofcandlesIhaveburntforyouwouldlightSt。Paul's，andyououghttobegoodwithsomuchwarbeingexpendedalloverAthensforyou。Youbuycandlesinsteadoftippingthevergerorputtingitinthepoorbox，orbecauseyouaresuperstitiousandthinkitwilldosomegood，asIdo。
OrientExpress。SomewhereinBulgariaonthewaytoLondon。
April14th，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
TuesdayIwroteyoualetterintheclubatConstantinopletellingyouhowgladIwouldbetogetoutofthatCityonApril17thontheOrientExpresswhichonlyleavestwiceaweekonThursdaysandMondays。SoanyonewhotravelsbytheOrientislookeduponfirstasamillionaireandsecond，ifhedoesnotbreakthejourneyatVienna，asagreatertravellerthanCol。BurnabyonhiswaytoKhiva。ImagineaKansasCitymanbreakingthejourneytoNewYork。AfterIwroteyouthatletterIwentinthenextroomandreadoftheNileExpeditioninsearchofGordon——thiswentthroughthreevolumesofTheGraphicandtooksometime，sothatwhenIhadreachedthepicturewhichannouncedthedeathofGordonitwashalfpastfiveandIhadnothingmoretodoforfourdays——ItwasrainingandcoldandmuddyandsoIjustmadeupmymindI
wouldgetupandgetoutandIjumpedaboutforonehourlikeakangarooandbysevenIwasontheOrientwithtwoCookmentohelpmeandhadshakenmyfistatthelastminaretlightofthatawfulcity。So，nowitisalloveranditisdone——I
havelearnedagreatdealinanimperfectwayofthejuxtapositionofcertaincountriesandoftheeasewithwhichonecantravelwithoutspeakinganyknownlanguagesandoftheabsolutenecessityforspeakingone，French。IamstilldisappointedaboutthearticlesbutselfishlyIhavemadealotoutofthetrip。Youhavenoideahowharditisnottotellaboutstrangethingsandyetyouknowpeopledonotcarehalfasmuchforthemasthingstheyknowallabout——Nomatter，itisdoneandwiththeexceptionofthelastweekitwasFINE。
"I'mgoingbacktoLondon，to`tea'andlongfrockcoatsI'mdonewithCookandseeingsightsI'mdonewithtabled'hotesSoclearthetrackyousignalmanFromSofiatoPless，I'mgoingstraightforLondonOntheOrientExpress。
I'mgoingstraightforLondonO'erBulgaria'sheavysandsToRottenRowandmuffins，soles，ChevalierandBrassBandsHo'getawayyoubullockmanYou'veheardthewhistleblowedalocomotivecomingdowntheGrandTrunkRoad。"
ThisisagreatcountryandIwanttoaskallthenativesiftheyknow"Stenie"Bonsal。Theyareallhisfriendsandsoarethe"Balkans，"andallthelittleBalkans。NobodywearsEuropeanclotheshere。Theyareallasforeignandnativeandpicturesqueastheycanbe，thewomenwithbigsilverplatesovertheirstomachsandthemeninsheepskinandtightsandthesoldiersaregrand。Wehavebeenpassingalldaybetweensnowcoveredmountainsandbetweenherdsofcattleandredroofed，mudvillagesandlonglakesoficeandsnow——ItisabeautifuldayandIamveryhappy。Seconddayout15th——WearenowinHungaryandjustoutsideofBudaPesth"thewickedestcityintheworld，"stillinspiteofthatfactIamgoingon。IamverygladIcamethisway——ThepeasantsandsoldiersaremostamusingandlikeGermanpicture-paperswithblacklettertype——IshallstopadayinParisnowthatIhavefourextradays。
DICK。
InsightofParis——April16——1893。
DEARESTMOTHER:
hasbeenthemostbeautifuldaysinceFebruary4th。
ItisthefirstdayinwhichIhavebeenwarm。AllthroughI
havehadavarnishofwarmtheverynowandagainbutnorealactualinternalwarmth——IamnowinsightofParisanditisthe16thofApril，intheelevenweekswhichhaveelapsedsincethe4thofFebruaryIhavebeeninSpain，France，Italy，Germany，Austria，Hungary，Serbia，Bulgaria，Turkey，Greece，EgyptandMorocco。IhavesatontheRockofGibraltar，sailedontheNileandtheSuezCanalandcrossedthroughtheDardanelles，overtheBalkans，thesteppesofHungaryandtheDanubeandRhine。Ihaveseenthesphinxbymoonlight，theParthenonandtheEiffelTowerandintwodaysmoreIshallhaveseenSt。Paul's。WhatdoyouthinkIshouldliketoseebestnow？YOU。IhavebeenworryingoflateastowhetherornotIshouldnotcomehomenowandleaveParisforanothertimebecauseitseemssoroughonyoutoleaveyouwithouteitherofyouryoungersonsforsolong。ButIhavethoughtitoveragreatdealandIthinkitbetterthatIshoulddoParisnowandleavemyselfclearfortherestoftheyear。I
promiseyouonethinghoweverthatIshallnotundertaketostayawaysolongagain；itistoolongandonegrowsoutofthings。ButnothingIfeel，willbesoeasyorsoamusingasParisandIintendtogetthroughwithitsoonandtrothometoyoubythemiddleofAugustATTHEVERYLATEST。So，pleasewritemeadeceitfulletterandsayyoudonotmissmeatallandthatmybeingsonearasParismakesagreatdifferenceandthatIambetteroutofthewayandifChasgoestoLondonIshallbenearhimincaseheforgetstoputonhisovershoesorinvolvesusinawarwithG。B。Now，motherdear，dowritemeacheerfulletterandsaythatyoudonotmindwaitinguntilthemiddleofAugustformeandwhenI
comebackthistimeIshallmakealongstaywithyouatMarionandtellyoulotsofthingsIhavenotwrittenyouandIshallnotgoawayagainforeversolongandifIdogoI
shallonlystayalittlewhile。Youhavenoideahowinterestingthisrushacrossthecontinenthasbeen。I
startedinsnowandthroughmarshescoveredwithiceandlonghornedcattleandnowweareinsuchabeautifulcleangreenlandwithgreenfieldsandgreentreesandfloweringbusheswhichyoucansmellasthetraingoesby。Inowthinkthatinsteadofbeingacafe-chantantsingerIshouldratherbeanAustrianbaronandownacastleonahillwitharedroofedvillagearoundit。Ihavespentalmostallofthetripsittingontheplatformandenjoyingthesightofthequeerpeasantsandthesoldiersandoldvillages。TonightIshallbein"Paris，France"asMortonusedtosayandIshallgetcleanandputonmydressclothesbutwhetherIshallgoseeYvetteGuilbertorRusticanaagainIdonotknow。PerhapsIshalljustpaddlearoundthefountaininthePlacedelaConcordeandmakemyselfthoroughlyathome。WithagreatdealoflovetoDadandNoraandChasandall。
DICK。
AtthetimethatRichard'sfirsttravelarticlesappearedsomeofhiscriticstookumbrageatthefactthathewasevidentlyunderthedelusionthathehaddiscoveredLondon，Gibraltar，Athens，Paris，andtheothercitieshehadvisited，andthatnooneelsehadeverwrittenaboutthem。Asamatteroffactnoonecouldhavebeenmorekeenlyconsciousofwhatanoft-toldtaleweretheplacesthathehadchosentodescribe。
IfRichardtookitforgrantedthatthereaderwastotallyunacquaintedwiththepeoplesofthesecitiesandtheirways，itwasbecausehebelievedthatthatwasthebestwaytowriteadescriptivearticle，alwayshadbelievedit，andbelieveditsolongashewrote。AndwhateverdifferenceofopinionmayhaveexistedamongthecriticsandthepublicastoRichard'sfiction，Ithinkitissafetosaythatasareporterhisworkofnearlythirtyyearsstoodatleastashighasthatofanyofhiscontemporariesorperhapsasthatofthereportersofalltime。Asaneditor，whenhegaveoutanassignmenttoareportertowriteanarticleonsomewell-wornsubjectandthereporterprotested，Richard'sanswerwasthesame:"Youmustalwaysrememberthatthatstoryhasn'tbeenwrittenuntilYOUwriteit。"AndwhenhesuggestedtoaneditorthathewouldliketowriteanarticleonBroadway，orthePanamaCanal，ortheruinsofRomeandtheeditordisapproved，Richard'sargumentwas:"Ithasn'tbeendoneuntil_I_doit。"Anditwasnotbecausehebelievedforamomentthathecoulddoitbetteroraswellasithadbeendone。Itwassimplybecauseheknewtheoldstorywasalwaysagoodstory，thatis，ifitwasseenwithneweyesandfromanewstandpoint。Attwenty-eighthehadwrittenabookaboutEnglandandherpeople，andthebookhadmetwithmuchsuccessbothinAmericaandEngland。Attwenty-nine，equallyunafraid，hehad"covered"theancientcitiesthatbordertheMediterranean，andnowParislaybeforehim!Thisthought——indeedfewthoughts——troubledRichardverymuchinthosedaysofhisearlysuccesses。Hehadyouth，friends，amarvellousspiritofadventure，andbesidestherearemanyworsefatesthanbeingconsignedtospendingafewmonthsinParis，havingathoroughlyjoyoustime，takingafewmentalnotes，andalittlelaterontransferringthemtopaperinthequietofapeacefulsummerhomeatMarion。
ChiefamonghisfriendsinParisatthistimewasCharlesDanaGibson，whowaslivinginacharmingoldhouseintheLatinQuarter，andwheretheartistdidsomeofhisbestworkandmadehimselfextremelypopularwithboththeParisiansandtheAmericancolony。InadditiontoGibsontherewereKennethFrazier，theportrait-painter，andTina，Newton，andJamesEustis，thedaughterandsonsofJamesB。Eustis，whoatthattimewasourambassadortoFrance，amostgenialandkindlyhost，whomademuchofRichardandhisyoungfriends。
PARIS，May5，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Itisanarrowstreetwithapartmenthousesofgraystoneandironbalconiesalongeithersideofit。Thesunsetsatoneendofthestreetatdifferenttimesduringthedayandweallleanoutonthebalconiestolook。Onthehouse，onebelowmine，ontheothersideofourstreet，isasquaresignthatsays:
ALFREDDEMUSSET
ESTMORTDANSCETTEMAISON
Agreatmanybeautifulladieswiththefashionableredshadeofhairstillcallthere，astheyusedtodowhenthepropercolorwasblackanditwasworninachignonandtheSecondEmpirehadbutjustbegun。Whiletheywaittheystretchoutintheircarriagesandgazeupatthebalconiesuntiltheyseeme，andasIwearagoldandpinksilkwrapperandnotmuchelse，theyconcentratealltheirattentiononthewrapperandforgettodropasighforthepoet。Therearetwoyoungpeopleonthesixthflooropposite，whocomeoutonthebalconyafterdinnerandholdontoeachotherandhetellsherallabouttheworkoftheday。Belowthereisawomanwhosewsnothingbutblackdresses，andwhodoesthatalldayandallnightbythelightofalamp。Andbelowtheconciergestandsalldayinalacecapandblackgownandblue，andlooksupthestreetanddownthestreetlikethewomaninfrontofHockley's。BUTontheflooroppositeminethereisabeautifulladyinapinkandwhitewrapperwithlongblackhairandsleepyblackeyes。Shedoesnottakeanyinterestinmypinkwrapper，butcontentsherselfwithpassingcabsandstraydogsandwomenwithloavesofbreadandbottlesintheirhandswhooccasionallystrayintoourstreet。Atsixsheappearsinanothergownandlittleslippersandabutterflyforahatandsays"Good-by"totheoldconciergeandtripsofftodinner。Lotsoflovetoall。
DICK。
PARIS，Mayllth，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Iamstillsomewhattentativeasregardsmyopinionoftheplace，whatitwillbringmeinthewayofmaterialIcannottell。Sofar，"ParisDecadent"wouldbeagoodtitleforanythingIshouldwriteofit。ItisnotthatIhaveseenonlytheworstsideofitbutthatthatseemstobesomuchthemostprominent。TheyworshipthehideousEiffelTowerandtheyareauseless，flippantpeoplewhoneversleepandyetdonothingwhileawake。To-morrowIamgoingtoaprettyinnsurroundedbyvinesandtreestoseeaprizefightwithallthesillyyoungFrenchmenandtheiryoungfriendsinblackandwhitewhoapetheEnglishmannersandcustomsevento"labox。"TonightattheAmbassadeurstherejectedloverofsomeactresstookagangofbulliesfromMontmartrethereandhissedandstonedher。IturnedupmostinnocentlyandgreatlyboredinthemidstofitbutIwastoofarawaytopoundanybody——IcollectedtwoEnglishmenandwewentinfronttoawaitherre-appearancebutshehadhystericsandwentoffinacabandsowewerenotgivenasecondopportunityofshowingthemtheyshouldplayfair。ItisatypicalincidentoftheFrenchmanandhasmademewrathy。Thewomenwatchingtheprizefightwillmakeagoodstoryandsowillthearmsoftheredmill，"TheMoulinRouge"theykeepturningandturningandgrindingouthealthandvirtueandsouls。
IdinedtonightwiththeC——sandP——s，theEx-Ministeranddisagreedwitheverybodyandfoundthemallverymiddleclassastointellect。AnoldEnglishladynexttomesaidaproposofsomething"thatisbecauseyouarenotcleverlikeMr——anddonothavetoworkwithyourbrains。"TowhichI
said，Ididnotmindnotbeingcleverasmyfatherwasamanytimesmillionaire，"atwhichshebecameabjectlypolite。YoungRothensteinisgoingtodoapictureofmeto-morrowmorning。
ThereisnothingmuchmoretotellexceptthatahorsestoodonhisforelegsintheBoistheotherdayandchuckedmeintospace。IwasverysorebutIwentongoingaboutasitwastheVarnishingdayatthenewsalonandIwishedtoseeit。I
amovermystiffnessnowandif"anybodywantstobuyabloomingbus"Ihaveoneforsaleandfivepairsofridingbreechesandtwoofdittoboots。Nomoreridingforme——TheboxingbagisingoodordernowandIdonotneedforexercise。Theladyacrossthestreethasanewwrapperinwhichsheisevenmorecoldandhaughtythanbefore。"IsingTarraraboomdeayandshekeepsfromlikingme。"
DICK。
PARIS，May14th，1893。
DEARNORA:
ThingsaregettingmoreinterestinghereandIshallprobablyhavesomethingtowriteaboutafterall，althoughIshallnotknowtheplaceasIdidLondon。WillRothensteinhasdrawnapictureofmethatIlikeverymuchandifmotherlikesitVERY，VERYmuchshemayhaveitasaloanbutshemaynotlikeit。IdidnotliketotakeitsoIboughtanotherpictureofhim，oneofCoquelincadetandnowIhavetwo。
Coquelingavehimhisfirstcommissionwhenhewasnineteen，twoyearsago，andthenaskedhimtodotwosketches。AftertheseweredoneCoquelintoldhimbyletterthathewouldgivehimhalfwhattheyhadagreeduponforthebigpictureforthetwosketchesandbeggedthebigpictureasagift。SoRothensteincuttheheadandshouldersoutofthebigoneandsenthimthearmsandlegs。ItistheheadhecutoutthatI
have。WhenRothensteinandIandCoquelinbecomefamous，thatwillmakeagoodstory。IhavealsoindulgedmyselfinthepurchaseofseveralofCheretsworksofart。Theycostthreefrancsapiece。WehavehadsomedelightfullunchesattheAmbassadeurswithCushingandotherartistsandlastnightI
wentoutintotheGrandeMondetoabalmasqueforcharityatthepalaceoftheComtessedelaFerrondeux。Itwasverystupidandthemenoutnumberedthewomen30to1，whichareinterestingodds。To-daywewenttoWhistler'sandsatoutinagardenwithhighwallsaboutitanddrankteaandlaughedatRothenstein。ThelastthinghesaidwasattheAmbassadeurswhenoneofthestudentspickingupaforksaid，"ThesearethesamesortofforksIhave。"Rothensteinsaid"yes，Ididnotknowyoudinedherethatoften。"Someoneaskedhimwhyheworehishairlong，"Totestyourmanners"heanswered。HeisadiscipleofWhistler'sandWilde'sandsaid"yes，I
defendthemattheriskoftheirlives。"DidItellyouofhissaying"Itismucheasiertoloveone'sfamilythantolikethem。"Andwhensomeonesaid"DidyouhearhowMrs。B。
treatedMr。C。，amanhedislikeshesaid，"no，butI'mgladshedid。"ItwaslovelyatWhistler'sandsuchacontrasttotheotherAmericansalonIwenttolastSunday。Itwassoquiet，andgreenandprettyandeverybodywassounobtrusivelypolite。
RothensteinworemyrosetteandmadeagreatsensationandI
wascongratulatedbyWhistlerandAbbeyandPennell。
Rothensteinsaidhewasgoingtohaveadoublebreastedwaistcoatmadewithrosettesofdecorationsforbuttons。TomorrowLordDufferinhasaskedmetobreakfastattheEmbassy。Hewasatthemaskedballlastnightandwasverynice。HeremindsmeexactlyofDisraeliinappearance。ItisawfullyhothereandaFairforcharityhasaskedmetoputmynamein"Gallegher"tohaveitraffledfor。"Dear"BonsalarrivesherenextSunday，soIamingreatanticipation。Iamverywell，tellmother，andamused。
Lotsoflove。
DICK。
PARIS，June13，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Thereisnothingmuchtosayexceptthatthingsstillgoon。
IfeellikeoneofthoselittleIndiarubberballsinthejetofafountainbeingturnedandtwistedandnotallowedtorest。TodayIhavebeentohearYvetteGuilbertrehearseandthoughtherallChasthinksheronlyhersongsthisseasonarebeneaththemoralsofamedicalstudent。Itisveryhotanditisgettinghotter。IhadanamusingtimeattheGrandPrixwhereTinawonalotofmoneyonatipIgaveherwhichIdidnotbackmyself。IntheeveningNewtontookmetodinnerandtotheJardindePariswheretheyhad10francadmittanceandwhereeverythingwentthatwasn'tnailed。Thedudesputcandlesontheirhighhatsandthegirlssnuffedthemoutwithkicksandatonetimethecrowdmobbedthebandstandandthenthestageandplayedonalltheinstruments。Themenwereallswellsineveningdressandthewomeninbeautifulballdressesanditwasawonderfulsight。ItonlyhappensonceayearliketheYale-PrincetonnightatKosterandBialsexceptthatthewomenareallveryfineindeed。Theyrodepig-a-backracesandsangallthesongs。IhaddinnerwithJohnDrewlastnight。IoccasionallysleepandifNoradoesn'tcomeontimeIshallbeaskeletonandhavenomoneyleft。AsamatteroffactIamfatterthaneverandcaneatallsortsofimpossiblethingsherethatIcouldnevereatathome。IluncheverydaywiththeEustisesandwedineoutalmosteverynight。Iconsortentirelywiththepoorestofartstudentsorthenoblestofprincessesandsofarhavekeptoutofmischief，butyoucannevertellforthisisawickedcitytheysay，oritstrikesmeasmostamusingatpresentonlyIcannotseewhatHarperandBros。aregoingtogetoutofit。IsaidthatofLondonsoIsupposeitwillallstraightenoutbythetimeIgetback。
DICK。
CHAPTERVII
FIRSTPLAYS
WhentheseasoninParishadreacheditsend，RichardreturnedtoLondonandlaterontoMarion，wherehespentthelatesummerandearlyfall，workingonhisMediterraneanandParisarticles，andcompletinghisnovel"SoldiersofFortune。"InOctoberhereturnedtoNewYorkandoncemoreassumedhiseditorialdutiesandtookhisusualactiveinterestinthewinter'sgayeties。
ThefirstoftheselettersreferstoadinnerofwelcomegiventoSirHenryIrving。ThelasttwotobooksbymymotherandRichard，andwhichwerepublishedsimultaneously。
NEWYORK，November27，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Thedinnerwasveryfine。IwasverygladIwent。WhitelawReidsatononesideofSirHenryIrvingandHoracePorterontheother。HowellsandWarnercamenext。JohnRussellYoungandMarkTwain，Millet，Palmer，Hutton，Gilderandalotmorewerethere。Therewerenonewspapermen，notevencriticsnoractorsthere，whichstruckmeasinteresting。Themenwereverynicetome。EspeciallyYoung，Reid，IrvingandHowells。
EverybodysaidwhenIcamein，"Iusedtoknowyouwhenyouwerealittleboy，"sothatsomeonesaidfinally，"WhatadisagreeablelittleboyyouMUSThavebeen。"IsatnextachapfromBrazilwhotoldmelotsofamusingthings。Onestoryifitisgoodsavesawholedayforme。OnehetoldwasofaGermanexplorertowhomDonPedrogaveanaudience。TheEmperoraskedhim，withsometouchofpatronage，ifhehadevermetakingbefore。"Yes，"theGermansaidthoughtfully；
"five，threewildandtwotame。"
MarkTwaintoldsomeveryfunnystories，andcapturedmebecauseIneverthoughthimfunnybefore，andIrvingtoldsomeaboutStanley，andeverybodytalkedinterestingly。IrvingsaidhewaslookingforwardtoseeingDadwhenhereachedPhiladelphia。"Itisnicetohaveseenyou，"hesaid，"butI
havestilltoseeyourfather，"asthoughIwasnotenough。
DICK。
NEWYORK，1893。
DEARESTMOTHER:
IcannottellyouhowtouchedandmovedIwasbythethreeinitialsinthebook。ItwasagenuineandcompletesurpriseandwhenIcameacrossitwhileIwasexaminingtheletterpresswithcriticalapprobationandwithnoideaofwhatwastocome，itleftmequitebreathless——Itwassosweetofyou——YouunderstandmeandIunderstandyouandyouknowhowmuchthatcountstome——Ithinkthebookisawfullyprettyandinsuchgoodtaste——ItisquiteadelighttotheeyeandIammuchmorekeenaboutitthanoveranyofmyown——IhavesentittosomeofmyfriendsbutIhavenotreadityetmyself，asIamwaitinguntilIgetontheboatwhereIshallnotbedisturbed——ThenIshallwriteyouagain——Itwasawfullygoodofyou，andIamsopleasedtohaveittogiveaway。Ineverhadanythingtoshowpeoplewhentheyaskedforoneofyourotherbooksandthiscomesinsuchanunquestionableform——Withlotsoflove。
DICK。
NEWYORK，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
IgotyourniceletterandonefromDad。Bothcallingmemanyadjectivespleasingtohearalthoughtheydonothappentofit。Soyouareinathirdeditionareyou？TheseYOUNG
writersarecrowdingmetothewall。IfeelthrillsofpridewhenIseeussittingcheekbyjowlonthenews-stands。
Lotsoflove。
InFebruary，1894，RichardwasforcedbyasevereattackofsciaticatogiveuptemporarilythegayetiesofNewYorkandforacurehenaturallychoseourhomeinPhiladelphia，whereheremainedformanyweeks。Althoughunabletoleavehisbed，hecontinuedtodoaconsiderableamountofwork，includingthenovelette"ThePrincessAline，"inthewritingofwhichI
believemybrothertookmorepleasurethaninthatofanystoryornovelheeverwrote。ThefutureEmpressofRussiawastheheroineofthetale，andthatsheeventuallyreadthestoryandwasapparentlydelightedwithitcausedRichardmuchhumanhappiness。
PHILADELPHIA。
March5th。
DEARCHAS:
Iamgettingrapidlybetterowingtoregularhoursandlightliteratureandhomecomforts。IamnotblueasIwasandmymorbidnesshasgoneandIonlygetdepressedattimes。IamstillhoweverfeelingtiredandIthinkIwilltakequitearestbeforeIventureacrosstheseas。ButacrossthemIwillcomenomatterifallthenervesonearthjumpandpull。Still，IthinkitwiserforallconcernedthatIgetthoroughlywellsothatwhenIdocomeIwon'thavetobecuttingbackhomeagainasI
didlasttime。Weareyoungyetandtheworld'swideandthere'sanewfarcecomedywritteneveryminuteandIhaveagreatmanythingstodomyselfsoIintendtogetstrongandthendothem。Ienclosetwopoems。Iamgoingtohavethemprintedformyparticularpalslater。Iamwritingonetoallofyoufolksoverthere。
DICK。
TAKEMEBACKTOBROADWAY，WHERE
THEORCHIDSGROW
WITHAPOLOGIESTOTHEWESTERNDIALECTPOETS
"IhavewanderedupanddownsomewhatinmanydifferentlandsIhavebeentoFortWorth，Texas，andI'vetrampedthroughJerseysands，IhaveseenPike'sPeakbyMoonlight，andI'vevisitedtheFairAndtosaveenumerationI'vebeennearlyeverywhere。
ButnomatterwhereIrestedandnomatterwhereI'dgo，IhavelongedtobeonBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。
SomepeoplelovetheliliesfairthathideinmossydellsSomefolksarefondofnewmownhay，beforetherainyspellsButgivetometheorchidsrarethathanginThorley'sstore，AndinFleischman'sattheHoffman，andinhalfadozenmoreAndwhenIseethemfarfromhometheymakemyheart'sbloodglowFortheytakemebacktoBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。
LetParisboastofboulevardswhereonecansitanddrinkThereisnosuchchanceonBroadway，attheBrowerHouse，`Idon'tthink。'
Andwhereelsearetherefairsoubrettesinpipeclayedtennisshoes，AndboysinsilkensashespromenadingbyintwosOhyoucanboastofanystreetofwhichyou'reproudtoknowButgivemesleepyBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。
LetpoetssingofchimingbellsandgentlylowingkineIliketheclangingcablecarslikefireenginesinlineAndInevermissthesunsetandformoonlightneversighWhen`SweptbyOceanBreezes。'flashesoutagainstthesky。
AndwhentheTenderloinawakes，andopentheatresglowIwanttobeonBroadwayWheretheOrchidsGrow。"
AVOUS，JOHNDREW
"JohnDrew，IamyourdebtorForaverypleasantletterAndalotofcabinetphotosOfthe`Butterflies'andyouAndIthinkitverykindThatyoukeptmesoinmindAndpitiedmeinexileSoIdo，JohnDrew。
2
JohnDrew，'twixtyouandmePreciouslittleIcanseeOfthatgoodthereisinSolitudeThatpoetssaytheyview。
For_I_hatetobeinbedWithacandleatmyheadSittingvisaviswithConscience。
Sowouldyou，JohnDrew。
3
JohnDrew，thenpromisemeThatassoonasIamfreeImaysitinthefirstentranceAsLambalwaysletsmedo。
AndwatchyoufumeandfretWhiletheinnocentsoubretteTakesthecentreofthestagea——
Wayfromyou，JohnDrew。"
R。H。D。
Inthesummerof1894RichardwenttoLondonforapurelysocialvisit，butwhilehewastherePresidentCarnotwasassassinated，andhewenttoParistowritethe"story"ofthefuneralandoftheelectionofthenewPresident。
VERSAILLES，June24，1894。
IamoutheretoseetheelectionofthenewPresident。I
jumpedonthemailcoachandcameoffinahurrywithoutanybreakfast，butIhadaprettydriveout，andtheguardandI
talkedofLondon。Thepalaceisclosedandnooneisadmittedexceptbycard，soIhaveseenonlytheoutsideofit。Itismostinteresting。Thereisnotaribbonorabadge；notabanneroraband。Thetownisasquietasalways，andtherearenot200peoplegatheredatthegatethroughwhichthedeputiespass。ComparedtoanelectionconventioninChicago，itismostinteresting。HowlivelyitisinsideofthechamberwherethethingisgoingonIcannotsay。I
shallnotwaittoheartheresult，butwillreturnonthecoach。
NothingcouldbemorecuriousthantheapparentindifferenceofthepeopleofParistotheassassinationofthePresident。
Twodaysafterhediedtherewasnotasingleflagathalfmastamongtheprivateresidences。TheGovernmentbuildings，thehotelsandthestoreswereallthatadvertisedtheirgrief。IshallhaveaninterestingstorytowriteofitfortheParisianseries。DanaGibsonandIwillwaituntilafterthefuneralandthengotoAndorra。Ifhedoesnotgo，Imaygoalone，butperhapsIshallgobacktoLondonatonce。Thishasbeenaninterestingtimehere，butonlybecauseitissodifferentfromwhatonewouldexpect。Itreadslikeaburlesquetonotetheexpressionsofcondolencefromallovertheworld，andtomarktheself-satisfactionoftheFrenchatattractingsomuchsympathy，andtheirabsoluteindifferencetothedeathofCarnot。Itismostcurious。Wehaveanidealtime。NeverbeforehaveIhadsuchjollydinners，withsuchgoodtalkandsuchamusingcompanions。
DICK。
LONDON，July15，1894。
DEARMOTHER:
Mr。IrvinggaveasupperlastnighttoMme。BernhardtandMme。
Rejane。Therewereabouttwentypeople，andweateintheBeefsteakRoomoftheLyceumTheater，whichissocalledaftertheoldBeefsteakClubwhichformerlymetthere。Ihadamostdelightfultime，andtalkedtoalltheFrenchwomenandtoMissTerry，whosentherlovetoDad。Shesaid，"IdidnotSEEhimthislastvisit；thatis，IsawhimbutIdidnotseehim。"Herdaughterisaverysweetgirl，andthepictureMissTerrymadeonherkneeslookingupatBernhardtandRejanewhentheychatteredinFrenchwaswonderful。NeithershenorIrvingcouldspeakawordofFrench，andwheneveranyoneelsetried，thecrowdallstoodinacircleandapplaudedandguyedthem。Afteritwasover，ataboutthreeinthemorning，MissTerryofferedmealifthomeinheropencarriage，sosheandherdaughterandIrodethroughtheemptystreetsinthegraylightformilesandmiles，as，ofcourse，IdidnotgetoutofsuchcompanyanysoonerthanIhadtodo。
TheyhadtakenIrving'srobeofcardinalredandmadeitintocloaks，andtheylookedveryoddandeeriewiththeiryellowhairandredcapes，andtalkingasfastastheycould。
DICK。
CHAPTERVIII
CENTRALANDSOUTHAMERICA
AboutJanuary1，1895，RichardaccompaniedbyhisfriendsSomersSomersetandLloydC。Griscom，afterwardourministertoTokioandambassadortoBrazilandItaly，startedoutonaleisurelytripofSouthandCentralAmerica。Withnoverydefiniteitinerary，theysailedfromNewOrleans，bentonhavingagoodtime，andasmanyadventuresaspossible，whichRichardwastodescribeinaseriesofarticles。Theseappearedlateroninavolumeentitled"ThreeGringosinVenezuela。"
January，1895。
DEARFAM:
OnboardBreakwateratanchor。YouwillbepleasedtohearthatIamwritingthisinafinestateofperspirationinspiteofthefactthatIhavelightweightflannels，nounderclothesandallthewindowsopen。Itisgoingtostormandthenitwillbecooler。Wehavehadabullytimesofaralthoughthetoughtimeisstilltocome，thatwillbegoingfromPuertoCorteztoTegucigalpa。AtBelizetheGovernortreateduscharminglyandgaveusorderliesandlaunchesandlunchesandadviceandmeafinesubjectforashortstory。
FornothinghasstruckmeassosadlatelyasdidSirAnthonyMoloneyK。C。M。G。watchingusgoofflaughingandjokinginhisgildedbargetowhereverwepleasedandleavinghimstandingaloneonhislawnwithsomepaperstosignandthenadinnertete-a-tetewithhisSecretaryandsoontotheendofhislife。ItwaspathetictohearhimlistentoallthegossipfromtheoutsideworldandtoseehowwepleasedhimwhenwetoldhimweweregettingmorebaldthanhewasandthathewouldmakeafineappearanceintheRowathispresentweight。
HehadnotheardofTrilby!!
WestruckabeautifulplacetodaycalledLivingstonwherewewentashoreandphotographedthearmyinwhichtherewasnoboyolderthaneighteenandmostofthemunderten。ItwasquitelikeAfrica，thehomeswereallthatchedandthechildrenallnakedandthewomenmostlyso。Wetooklotsofphotographsandgotonmostexcellentlywiththenativeswhothoughtwewereasfunnyaswethoughtthem。Almosteveryplacewegowordhasbeensentaheadandagentsandconsulsandcustomhousechapscomeouttomeetmeandaskwhattheycando。ThisisverygoodandkeepsGriscomandSomersetinaproperframeofawe。ButseriouslyIcouldnotaskforbettercompanions，theyarebothenormouslywellinformedandpoliteandfulloffun。ThenighttheGovernoraskedSomerstodinneranddidnotaskuswewaitedupforhimandthenhunghimoutoverthesideoftheboatabovethesharksuntilhesworehewouldnevergoawayfromusagain。GriscomismoreaggravatinglyleisurelybuthehasamostaudacioushumorandtalkstothenativesinawaythatfillsthemwithpleasurebutwhichnearlymakesSomersandIexposethewholepartybylaughing。TodaywelieheretakinginbanannasandtomorrowI
willseeConrad，Conrad，Conrad!!SendthistotheConsul。
Lotsoflove。
DICK。
SANPEDRO——SULA——February，1895。
MYDEARFAMILY:
TheafternoonofthedaywewereinPuertoCortezthemanofwarAtlantasteamedintothelittleharborandweallcheeredandthelotterypeopleranuptheAmericanflag。ThenIandtheotherswentouttoherasfastaswecouldberowedandIwentoverthesideandthesurpriseoftheofficerswasverygreat。TheycalledSomersandGriscomtocomeupandwespentthedaythere。TheywereamuchyoungerandmoreamusinglotoffellowsthanthoseontheMinneapolisandtreatedusmostkindly。Itwasabeautifulboatandeachofusconfessedtofeelingquitetemptedtogobackagaintocivilizationafteronedayonher。TheirboathadtouchedatTangierandsotheyclaimedthatshewastheonemeantintheExiles。TheytoldmethattheguideIsaacCohenwhomI
mentionedinHarper'sWeeklycarriesitaroundasanadvertisementandwantedtoshipwiththemascabinboy。WeleftthenextdayontherailroadandtheboysfindingthattwonegroessatonthecowcatchertothrowsandontherailsinslipperyplacesbribedthemfortheirplacesandIsatonthesandbox。Inevertookamorebeautifuldrive。Wedidnotgofasterthananordinaryhorsecarbutstillitwasexcitingandtheviewsandvistaswonderful。
Sometimeswewentforahalfmileunderarchesofcocoanutpalmsandastraightbroadleafedpalmcalledthemanacathatrisesinseparateleavessixtyfeetfromtheground。ImagineapalmsuchasweputinpotsatweddingsandteasashighasHolyTrinityChurchandhundredsandhundredsofthem。ThecountryisverylikeCubabutmoreluxuriantineveryway。Therearesometreeswithmarbleliketrunksandgreatbranchescoveredwithoriolenestsandahundredoriolesflyinginandoutofthemorelseplasteredwithorchids。IfBillyFurnessweretoseeinwhatabundancetheygrewhewouldbequitemad。Itisagreatpityhedidnotcomewithus。ThislittletownistheterminusoftherailroadandwehavebeenherefourdayswhileJeffstheAmericanColonelintheHondureanArmyisgettingouroutfit。
Ithasbeenverypleasantandweareinnohurrywhichisagoodthingforus。Itisamostexcitingcountryandasdespoticasalluncivilizedandunstablegovernmentsmustbe。
ButwehavecalledontheGovernorofthedistrictwithJeffsandhegaveusaveryfinelettertoallcivilandunmilitaryauthoritiesinthedistrictcallingonthemtoaidandprotectusineveryway。IamgettingawfullygoodmaterialformynovelandforhalfadozenstoriestobootonlyIamsurprisedtofindhowtruemynovelwastowhatreallyexistshere。
Abouttenyearsago——disappeared，havingasIthoughtdrunkhimselftodeath。HecameuptomehereonmyarrivalwithalotofwaybillsinhishandandIlearnedthathehadbeenemployedinthisholeinthegroundbyarailroadfortwoyears。IrememberedmeetinghimatNewportwhenIwasstillatLehigh，andlastnightheaskedmetodinnerandtoldmewhathehadbeendoingwhichincludedeverythingfromactinginSouthAmericatoblackingbootsinAustralia。HisbosswasaPittsburghengineerwhoisapparentlylickinghimintoshapeandwhotoldmetotellhisfatherthathehadstoppeddrinkingabsolutely。Hiscolored"missus"satwithusatthetableandplayedwithabeetleduringthethreehoursIstayedthereduringwhichtimeheaskedmeabout——whohesaidhadruinedhim。Hetoldmeofhow——haddoneandsaidthis，andthecontrasttothethatchedroofandthemudfloorandtheScotchAmericanengineerandthemulattogirlwasratherstriking。IneverhadmoreluckinanytripthanIhavehadonthisoneandtheluckofR。H。D。ofwhichIwasfondofboastingseemstoholdgood。Thatmanofwar，forinstance，wastheonlyAmericanonethathadtouchedatPuertoCortezinTENyearsanditcamethedaywedidandleftthedaywedid。WesawabiglithographofEddieSotherninapalmhutheresowewentbeforeanotaryandsworetoitandhadthreesealsputonthepaperandsentithimasajoke。Westarttomorrowthe22ndsoyouseewearebehindourscheduleandIsupposeyoupeopleareallworriedtodeathaboutus。WewillbemuchlongerthansixdaysonourwaytoTegucigalpaaswearegoingshootingandalsotopayourrespectstoBograntheex-presidentandthemanwhoisgettingupthenextrevolution。ButwetakecaretotelleveryonewearetravellingforpleasureandaregreatadmirersofBonillathepresentpresident。SomersandIaregettingonfamously。Heisaveryfineboywithagreatsenseofhumorandapparentlyveryfondofme。WehadfivemencountingJeffswhowecallourmilitaryattacheandCharwoodandfourdriversandelevenmulessoitisquiteanoutfit。InEcuadorwithonemoremanitwouldconstitutearevolution。
DICK。
DEARFAM:SANTABARBARA——January25，1895。
WearenotatTegucigalpaasyouobservebuttravellinginthiscountry。"AsyouseeitonBroadway"andasyouseeitherearetwodifferentthings。WehavehadfivedaysofitsofarandrestedheretodayinordertopayourrespectstoGeneralBograntheex-presidentoftheRepublic。ItisstillsixdaystoTegucigalpa。ThetripacrossCentralAmericawillcertainlybeoneofthemostinterestingexperiencesofmylife。ItisthemostbeautifulcountryIhaveseenandthemostbarbarous。
Itisalsothehottestandthemostinsect-iousandthedirtiest。Thislatterseemsalittleviewtotakeofitbutitmeansagreatdealastheinsectspreventyourdoinganythinginanaturalway；asforinstancesittingonthegrassorsleepingonthegroundorhuntingthroughthebushes。
Itisprettymuchasyouimagineitisfromwhatyouhaveread，thatcoversit，andIhavediscoverednothingnewbycomingtoseeit。Ionlyverifywhatothershaveseen。ThepeoplearemostuninterestingchieflybecausetheyaresurlytoAmericansanddonotmakeyoufeelwelcome。IdonotmeanthatIdidnotdowelltocomeforIammoregladthatIdidthanIcansayonlyIhavenot，asIhavebeenabletodobefore，foundsomethingthatothershavenotseen。IneverexpecttoseesuchacountryagainunlessinAfrica。Ifyouleavethepathfortenyardsyouwouldnevergetbacktoitexceptbyaccidentandyoucouldnotgetthatfarawayunlessyoucutyourselfatrail。InsomeplacesthemailroutewhichwefollowandoverwhichthemailiscarriedonthebacksofrunnersiscutintherockandwegodownstepsasevenasthoseoftheCityHallandforhourswetraveloverroughrocksandstonesandapathsonarrowthatyourkneescatchinthevinesattheside。Themulesarewonderfullysurefootedandneverslipalthoughtheyareverylittle，andIamprettyheavy。Theheatissomethingawful。Itbakesyouandwilldryyourpithhelmetintenminutesafteryouhavesoakeditinwater。Butthesceneryismagnificent，sometimeswerideabovethecloudsandlookdownintovalleysstretchingfiftymilesawayandseethebuzzardshalfamilebelowus。Thenwegothroughforestsofmanacapalmsthatspreadoutonasinglestemsidewaysandformarchesoverourheadswiththeleaveshanginginfrontofuslikeportiersorwecrossgreatplainsofgrassandcactusandrock。Thebestfunisthebathswetakeinthemountainstreams。Theyarealmostascoolasonecouldwishandweshoottherapidsandlieunderthewaterfallsandcomeoutwithallthesorenessrubbedoutofusasthoughwehadbeenmassaged。Wewentshootingfortwodaysbutastheyhadnodogswedidnotdomuch。Igotthebestshotofthetripandmissedit。ItwasalargewildcatandheturnedhissidefullonbutIfiredoverhim。SomersandIspentmostofthetimefiringchanceshotsatalligators，buttheynevergaveusagoodchanceasthebirdswarnthemwhentheyareindanger。
OneoldfellowfifteenfeetlongbeatusforsometimeandthenSomersandIstartedacrosstherivertocatchhimasleep。ItwaslikethetakingofLungtepen。Wehadourmoneybeltsaroundournecksandourshoesinonehandandriflesintheother。TherapidsranveryfastandthelastI
sawofSomersethewassittingonthebankhehadstartedfromcountingoutwetbanknotesandblowingthewateroutofhisgunbarrel。IgotacrossallrightbystickingmyfeetbetweenrocksandputonmyshoesandcrawledupontheoldJohnnie。Hesmeltofmusksostrongthatyoucouldhavefoundhiminthedark。Ihad，abeautifulshotathimatfiftyyardsbutIwastoogreedyandranaroundsomerockstogetnearerandheheardmeanddived。Ishotamacaw，oneofthoseovergrownparrotswithtailfeathersthreefeetfromtiptotip。
IgothimwitharifleandasGriscomhadgothiswithashotgunIcameoutallrightasamarksmanalthoughIwasverysoreatmissingthewildcat。WesleepinhatsandwesleeppreciouslittleforthedogsandpigsandinsectsallhelptokeepusawakeandIcannotgetusedtoahammock。Thenativebedsaremadeofmattingsuchastheyputoverteachests，orbull'shidestretched。LastnightIsleptinahutwithawomanandherthreedaughtersalloverfifteenandtheysatupandwatchedmeprepareforbedwithgreatinterest。IwouldnothavemissedthistripforanyotherIknow。Iwantedtoroughitandwe'verougheditandwewillhaveanotherweekofittoo。
Wehavesomeremarkablephotographsandthearticleoughttobemostinteresting。Bogranprovedtobeaveryhandsomeandremarkablemanandwehadaveryinterestingtalkwithhim。
FromTegucigalpawewillprobablygodirectlytoVenezuelaacrosstheIsthmusofPanamaandnotvisitanotherRepublic。
Wehavealltravelledtoomuchtocaretoduplicate，andthatiswhatwewouldbedoingbyremaininglongerinCentralAmerica。AmonthofitwillbeenoughofitandwewillnotgetawayfromAmapalabeforethefirstofFebruary。WeareallwellandhappyanddirtyandsingandlaughandtellstoriesandlistentoGriscom'sanecdotesofthearistocracyaswepickourwayalong。SogoodbyeandGodblessyouall。
DICK。
TEGUCIGALPA，CENTRALAMERICA。
Februarylst，1895。
4th，1895。
DEARFAMILY