ThatRichardlostnotimeinmakingfriendsatOxfordas，indeed，heneverfailedtodowhereverhewent，thefollowingletterstohismotherwouldseemtoshow:
OXFORD——May，1892。
DEARFAMILY:
IcamedownhereonSaturdaymorningwiththePeels，whogaveanenormousboatingpartyandluncheononatinylittleisland。Thedaywasbeautifulwithawarmbrilliantsun，andtheriverwasjustasnarrowandprettyastheheadoftheSquanriver，andwitholdwallsandcollegebuildingsadded。
WehadtheprettiestMrs。PeelinourboatandMrs。JosephChamberlain，whowasMissEndicottandwhoisverysweetandpretty。Weracedtheotherpuntsandrowboatsandsoon，aftermuchsplashingandexertion，reachedtheheadoftheriver。
Thenwewentto，teainNewCollegeandtoseethesightsofthedifferentcollegesnowontheThames。Thebargesofthecolleges，painteddifferentcolorsandgildedlikecircusband-wagonsanddecoratedwithcoatsofarmsandflyinggreatflags，linedtheoneshoreforaquarterofamileandwerecoveredbygirlsinprettyfrocksandunder-gradsinblazers。
Thentheboatscameintosightoneafteranotherwiththemenrunningalongsideonthetowpath。Thiswasoneofthemostremarkablesightsofthecountrysofar。Therewereoversixhundredmencomingsixabreast，fallingandstumblingandpushing，shoutingandfiringpistols。Itsoundedlikeacavalrychargeandthelineseemedendless。Thewholethingwasmosttheatricalandeffective。ThenwewenttotheannualdinnerofthePalmerstonClub，whereImadeaspeechwhichwas，asthereisnooneelsetotellyou，wellreceived，"beingfrequentlyinterruptedwithapplause，"fromboththedinersandtheladiesinthegallery。ItwasaboutFreeTradeandthewayAmericawasmisrepresentedintheEnglishpapers，andcomposedoffunnystorieswhichhadnothingtodowiththespeech。I
didnotknowIwasgoingtospeakuntilIgotthere，andconsideringthefact，asWilsonsays，thatyourunclewasplayingonastrangetablewithacrookedcuehedidverywell。ThenextmorningwebreakfastedwiththeBursarofTrinityandhadluncheonwiththeViscountSt。CyrestomeetLordandLadyColeridge。St。Cyresisveryshyandwell-bred，andwewouldhavehadagoodtimehadnottheM。P。'spresentbeenfilledwithaweoftheLordChiefJusticeandfailedtodrawhimout。
Asitwashetoldsomeveryfunnystories；thenwewenttoteawithHubertHoward，inwhoseroomsIliveandamnowwriting，andmetsomestupidEnglishwomenandshygirls。ThenwedinedwiththedonsatNewCollege，so——calledbecauseitiseighthundredyearsold。Wesatatahightableinabighallhungwithpicturesandlitbycandles。Theunder-gradssatbeneathingownsandrattledpewtermugs。Weallworeeveningdressandthosethathadthemredandwhitefurcollars。
Afterdinnerwelefttheroomaccordingtosomeprocessofselection，carryingournapkinswithus。WeenteredaroomcalledtheCommons，wherewedrankwinesandatenutsandraisins。Itwasallverysolemnanddullandverydignified。
Outsideitwasquitelightalthoughnineo'clock。Thenwemarchedtoanotherroomwheretherewerecigarsandbrandyandsoda，butArthurPollenandIhadtogoandtakecoffeewiththeMasterofBalliol，theonlyindividualofwhomPollenstandsintheleastawe。Hewasadearoldmanwhosaid，"O
yes，you'refromIndia，"andonmysaying"No，fromAmerica"；
hesaid，"Oyes，it'stheotherone。"IfoundtheotheronewasanIndianprincessinacashmerecloakanddiamonds，wholookedsoproudandlovelyandbeautifulthatIwantedtotakeherouttooneoftheseatsinthequadrangleandletherweeponmyshoulder。HowshelivesamongthesecoldpeopleI
cannotunderstand。Wewerealltogotoaconcertinthechapel，andhalfofthepartystartedoff，buttheMaster'swifesaid，"Oh，IamsuretheMasterexpectsthemtowaitforhiminthehall。Itisalwaysdone。"Atwhichallthewomenmadeflutteringremarksofsympathyandthemenracedofftobringtheothersback。OnlytheIndiangirlandIremainedundisturbedandpuzzled。Thepartycameback，buttheMastersawthemandsaid，"Well，itdoesnotmatter，butitisgenerallydone。"Atwhichweallfeltguilty。WhenwegottothechapeleverybodystoodupuntiltheMaster'spartysatdown，butasitwasbrokeninthemiddleoftheprocession，theysatdown，andthen，seeingwehadnotallpassed，gotupagain，sothatIfeltlikesaying，"Asyouwere，men，"astheydooutWestinthebarracks。ThenLordColeridgeintakingoffhisovercoattookoffhisundercoat，too，andstoodunconsciousofthefactbeforethewholeofOxford。Thefacesoftheaudiencewhichpackedtheplaceweresomethingwonderfultosee；theirdesiretolaughatatall，red-facedmanwholookslikeabucolicBillNyestrugglingintohiscoat，andthenhorroratseeingtheChiefJusticeinhisshirt-sleeves，wasaterribleeffort——andnoonewouldhelphim，ontheprinciple，Isuppose，thattheQueenofSpainhasnolegs。
HewouldhavebeenstrugglingyetifIhadnot，afterwatchinghimandLadyColeridgestrugglingwithhim，forafullminute，takenhiscoatandfirmlypulledtheoldgentlemanintoit，atwhichheturnedhisheadandwinked。
IwillgobacktotownbythefirsttoseetheDerbyandwillgetintolodgingsthere。IAMHAVINGAVERYGOODTIMEANDAM
VERYWELL。Theplaceisasbeautifulasoneexpectsandyetallthetimestartlingonewithitsbeauty。
DICK。
WhentheseasonatOxfordwasoverRichardreturnedtoLondonandtookabigsunnysuiteofroomsintheAlbany。HerehesettleddowntolearnallhecouldofLondon，itswaysanditspeople。InNewYorkhehadalreadymetanumberofEnglishmenandwomendistinguishedinvariouswalksoflife，andwiththeseasanucleushesoonextendedhiscircleoffriendsuntilitbecameaslargeasitwasvaried。Inhisyouth，andindeedthroughouthislife，RichardhadthegreatestaffectionforEnglandandtheEnglish。NotruerAmericaneverlived，buthethoughttheUnitedStatesandGreatBritainwereboundbytiesthatmustendurealways。HeadmiredBritishhabits，theircosmopolitanismandtheverysimplicityoftheirmodeofliving。Helovedtheircountrylife，andtheswirlofLondonneverfailedtothrillhim。DuringthelasthalfofhislifeRichardhadperhapsasmanyintimatefriendsinLondonasinNewYork。Hisfreshpointofview，hisveryeagernesstounderstandtheirs，madethemwelcomehimmoreasoneoftheirownpeoplethanasastranger。
LONDON，June3，1892。
DEARFAMILY:
IwentouttotheDerbyonWednesdayandthinkitisthemostinterestingthingIeversawoverhere。ItisSOlikethesepeoplenevertohaveseenit。ItseemstobechieflycomposedofcostermongersandAmericans。Igotabox-seatonapubliccoachandwentoutatten。Werodeforthreehoursinaprocessionofdonkeyshays，omnibuses，coaches，carriages，vans，advertisingwagons；everysortofconveyancestretchingforsixteenmiles，andwithpeopleliningthesidestolookon。IspentmytimewhenIgottherewanderingaroundoverthegrounds，whichwerelikeBarnum'scircusmultipliedbythousands。Itwasabeautifuldayandquitethemostremarkablesightofmylife。MuchmorewonderfulthanJohnstown，soyouseeitmusthaveimpressedme。Wewerefivehoursgettingback，thepeoplesingingallthewayandpeltingoneanotherandsayingfunnyimpudentthings。
Myroomsaresomethinggorgeous。Theyareonthefirstfloor，lookingintoPiccadillyfromacourt，andtheyarefilledwithHogarth'sprints，oldsilver，blueandwhitechina，Zuluweaponsandfurrugs，andeasychairsofIndiasilk。Youneversawsuchrooms!Andaverygoodservant，whocooksandvaletsmeandrunserrandsandtakessuchgoodcareofmethatlastnightCustandBalfourcalledatonetogetsomesupperandhewouldnotletthemin。ThinkofhavingtheLeaderoftheHouseofCommonscometoaskyouforfoodandhavinghimsentaway。Burdett-Couttsheardofmybeinghereinthepapersandwrotemetodinewithhimtonight。IlunchedwiththeTennantstoday；norelationtoMrs。Stanley，anditwasinformalandfunnyrather。TheEarlofSpenderwasthereandLordPembrokeandalotofwomen。Theygotupandwalkedaboutandchangedplacesandseemedtoknowoneanotherbetterthanwedoathome。IthinkIwillgodowntoOxfordforWhitsuntide，whichisaheatheninstitutionherewhichsendseveryoneawayjustasIwanttomeetthem。
Ihaven'twrittenanythingyet。Ifindithardtodoso。I
thinkIwouldratherwaituntilIgethomeforthemostofit。
Chas。willbehereinlessthanaweeknowandwewillhaveagoodtime。Ihaveplanneditoutfordays。HemustgotoOxfordandmeetthoseboys，andthen，ifhewishes，ontoEastnor，whichIlearnsincemyreturnisoneoftheshowplacesofEngland。Iamenjoyingmyself，itisneedlesstosay，verymuch，andamwellandhappy。
DICK。
DuringthesefirstdaysinEnglandRichardspentmuchofhistimeatEastnor，LadyBrownlow'splaceinLincolnshire，andoneofthemostbeautifulestatesinEngland。HarryCust，towhommybrotherfrequentlyrefersinhisletters，wasthenephewofLadyBrownlow，andagreatfriendofRichard's。AtthattimeCustwastheConservativenomineeforParliamentfromLincolnshire，andRichardtookamostactivepartinthecampaign。Happily，wewerebothatLadyBrownlow'sduringitslastfewtensedays，aswellasonthedaythevoteswerecounted，andCustwaselectedbyanarrowmargin。OfourthrillingadventuresRichardafterwardwroteatgreatlengthin"OurEnglishCousins。"
LONDON，July6，1892。
DEARMOTHER:
OntheFourthofJuly，LadyBrownlowsentintotownandhadabigAmericanflagbroughtoutandplacedoverthehouse，whichwasagreatcompliment，asitwasseenandcommentedonformilesaround。CushingofBoston，averynicechapandawfullyhandsome，isthere，too。ThesamemorningIwentouttophotographthesoldiers，andLordWilliamFrederick，whoistheircolonel，chargedthemaftermewheneverIappeared。ItseemshehasasenseofhumorandlikedtheideaofmakinganAmericanrunontheFourthofJulyfromRed-coats。Idoubtifthefivehundredmenwhowerenotonhorsebackthoughtitasfunny。TheychasedmetillI
thoughtIwoulddie。TheConservativememberforthecountygotinlastnightandwerejoicedgreatly，asthemoraleffectwillhelpHarryCustgreatly。HiselectiontakesplacenextMonday。Themenwentintohearthevotedeclaredafterdinner，andsodidtwoofthegirls，whogotLadyBrownlow'sconsentatdinner，andthendashedofftochangetheirgownsbeforeshecouldchangehermind。Aswewereintentonseeingthefunanddidn'twantthem，wetookthemjustwherewewouldhavegoneanyway，whichwaswherethefightingwas。Andtheyshowedrealsportingbloodandsawtheotherrealsort。Therewerethreeofustoeachgirl，anditwasmostexciting，withstonesflyingandwindowscrashingandcheersandgroans。A
politicalmeetingorelectionathomeisanafternoonteatotheEnglishones。WhenwecamebackthesoldierswereleavingtheParktostoptherow，andasweflewpast，thetenantsrantothegateandcheeredfortheToryvictoryin"goodoldlopes。"Whenwegottothehousetheservantsrancheeringallovertheshopandrangthealarmbellandbuiltfires，andwehadasupperatone-fifteen。WhattheywilldoonthenightofCust'selection，Icannotimagine——
burnthehousedownprobably。CushingandIenjoyitimmensely。Weknowthemwellenoughnowtobeasfunnyaswelikewithouthavingthemstare。Theyarenicewhenyouknowthem，butyou'veGOTtoknowthemfirst。IhadagreatdinneratFarrar's。AlltheecclesiasticallightsofEnglandinknee-breecheswerethere，andtheAmericanMinisterandPhillipsBrooks。Itwasquitenovelandfun。Lotsoflove。
IhaveallthemoneyIwant。
DICK。
WithCustproperlyelected，RichardandIreturnedtotheAlbanyandsettleddowntoenjoyLondonfrommanyangles。
Althoughmybrotherhadbeentherebutafewweeks，hisacquaintancesamongthestatesmen，artists，socialcelebrities，andtheprominentactorsofthedaywasquiteasextraordinaryashisgeographicalandhistoricalknowledgeofthecity。Wegavemanyjollyparties，andonaccountofRichard'squicklyacquiredpopularitywereconstantlybeinginvitedtodinners，dances，andlessformalbutmostamusingBohemiansupper-parties。Duringthesedaystherewaslittleopportunityformybrothertodomuchwriting，buthewasverybusymakingmentalnotesnotonlyforhiscomingbookontheEnglishpeople，butforanumberofshortstorieswhichhewroteafterwardinlessstrenuoustimes。WereturnedtoNewYorkinAugust，andRichardwenttoMariontorestfromhissocialactivities，andtoworkonhisEnglisharticles。
CHAPTERVI
THEMEDITERRANEANANDPARIS
Itwas，Ithink，theyearprevioustothisthatmymotherandfatherhaddesertedPointPleasantasaplacetospendtheirsummervacationsinfavorofMarion，onCapeCod，andRichardandI，asamatterofcourse，followedthemthere。AtthattimeMarionwasasimplelittlefishingvillagewhereafewverycharmingpeoplecameeverysummerandwherethefishingwasofthebest。Inallwaysthelifewasmostprimitive，andhappilycontinuedsoformanyyears。In，theseearlydaysGroverClevelandandhisbridehadacottagethere，andheandJosephJefferson，wholivedatBuzzard'sBay，andmyfatherwentondailyfishingexcursions。RichardWatsonGilderwasoneoftheearliestsettlersofthesummercolony，andmanydistinguishedmembersoftheliteraryandkindredprofessionscametheretovisithim。Itwasaratherdrowsylifeforthosewhodidn'tfish——agreatdealofsittingaboutonone'sneighbor'sporchanddiscussionofthelatestnovelorthenewestart，orofone'ssoul，andspeculatingastowhatwouldprobablybecomeofit。FromthefirstRichardformedagreataffectionfortheplace，andafterhismarriageadopteditashiswinteraswellashissummerhome。Asaworkshophehadtworoomsinoneofthenatives'cottages，andtwomorecharmingroomsitwouldbehardtoimagine。Thelittleshingledcottagewasliterallycoveredwithhoneysuckle，andinsidethereweretheoldwall-papers，theopenhearths，themahoganyfurniture，andthemanycharmingthingsthathadbeenthereforgenerations，andallofwhichhelpedtocontributetothequaintpeacefulatmosphereoftheplace。DanaGibsonhadacottagejustacrosstheroad，andaroundthecornerGouverneurMorrislivedwithhisfamily。AtthistimeneitherofthesefriendsofRichard，norRichardhimself，alliedthemselvesverycloselytotheliterarycolonyanditshighthoughts，butdevotedmostoftheirtimetosailingaboutSippicanHarbor，playingtennisandcontributinganoccasionalshortstoryoranillustrationtoapopularmagazine。Butafterthecolonyhadtakenflight，Richardoftenremainedlongintothefall，doingreallyseriousworkandagreatdealofit。Atsuchtimeshehadtodependonafewfriendswhocametovisithim，butprincipallyonthenativestomanyofwhomhewasgreatlyattached。Itwasduringthesedaysthathefirstmethisfuturewife，CecilClark，whosefather，JohnM。ClarkofChicago，wasoneoftheearliestofthesummercoloniststobuildhisownhomeatMarion。Amostcharmingandhospitablehomeitwas，anditwasinthissamehousewherewehadallspentsomanyhappyhoursthatRichardwasmarriedandspenthishoneymoon，andforseveralyearsmadehispermanenthome。OfthelifeofMarionduringthislaterperiod，hebecameanintegralpart，andperformedhisdutiesasoneofitsleadingcitizenswithmuchcredittothetownanditspeople。ForMarionRichardalwaysretainedagreataffection，fortherehehadplayedandworkedmanyofhisbestyears。Hehadlearnedtoloveeverythingofwhichthequaintoldtownwaspossessed，animateandinanimate，andhadIneededanyfurtherproofofhowdeeplythegoodpeopleofMarionlovedRichard，thelettersI
receivedfrommanyofthematthetimeofhisdeathwouldshow。
Intheearlyfallof1892RichardreturnedtohiseditorialworkonHarper'sWeekly，andoneofthefirstassignmentshegavewastodespatchhimselftoChicagotoreporttheDedicationExercisesoftheWorld'sFair。Thatthetripatleaststartedoutlittletomybrother'slikingthefollowingseemstoshow。However，Richard'smoodsfrequentlychangedwiththehour，anditismorethanpossiblethatbeforetheletterwassenthewasenjoyinghimselfhugelyandregardingChicagowithhisusualkindlyeyes。
ChicagoClub，DEARFAMILY:October2，1892。
ThoughlosttosightIamstillthinkingofyousadly。ItseemsthatItookacoupeafterleavingyouandafterlivinginitforafewyearsIgrewtiredandgotoutontheprairieandwalkedalongdrinkinginthepureairfromthelakesandreadingLiebig'sandCooper'sadvs。AfterabrisktenmilewalkIreenteredmycoupeandweintimedrewupbeforealargehotelinhabitedbyaclerkandaregularboarder。Iamontheseventhfloorwithoutabathroomorelectricbutton——I
merelymaderemarksandthenreturnedtotowninarailroadtrainwhichrunsconvenientlynear。AftergainingcivilizationImademywaythroughseveralparadesoritmayhavebeenthesameonetothereviewingstand。MyprogresswasmarkedbymockingremarksbythepolicewhoaskedofeachothertogetontomycoatandonseveraloccasionsIwasmistakenbyacrowdofsomethousandpeoplefortheP——eofW——s，andtumultuouslycheered。AtlastIfoundaninspectorofpoliceonhorseback，whoagreedtogetmetothestandifittookaleg。Heaccordinglychargedabout300womenandclubbedeightmen——Icountedthem——andfinallygotmein。Hewasverydrunkbuthewasverygoodtome。
OncebackfromChicagoRicharddividedhistimebetweenhisdeskatFranklinSquare，hisroomsonTwenty-eighthStreet，andinquicklypickingupthefriendshipsandthesocialactivitieshistriptoEnglandhadtemporarilybrokenoff。
MuchashenowlovedLondon，hewasstillanenthusiasticNewYorker，andtheamountofworkandplayheaccomplishedwasquiteextraordinary。Indeeditisdifficulttounderstandwherehefoundthetimetodosomuch。InadditiontohisworkonHarper'shewrotemanyshortstoriesandspecialarticles，notonlybecausehelovedthemerewritingofthem，butbecausehehadcometosogreatlyenjoythethingshecouldbuywiththemoneyhislaborsnowbroughthim。Hispleasureshadincreasedassteadilyasthepriceshecouldnowcommandforhisstories，andinlookingbackonthosedaysitisratherremarkablewhenoneconsidershisage，thetemptationsthatsurroundedhim，andhisextraordinarycapacityforenjoyment，thatheneverseemstohaveforgottenthebalancebetweenworkandplay，andstucktobothwithanunswervingandunceasingenthusiasm。However，afterfourmonthsofNewYork，hedecideditwashightimeforhimtobeoffagain，andhearrangedwiththeHarperstospendthelatewinterandthespringincollectingmaterialforthetwosetsofarticleswhichafterwardappearedinbookformunderthetitlesof"TheRulersoftheMediterranean"and"AboutParis。"
HesetsailforGibraltartheearlypartofFebruary，1893，andthefollowinglettersdescribehisleisurelyprogressabouttheMediterraneanports。
NEWYORK，February3，1893。
DEARESTMOTHER:
Thisisalittlepresentforyouandagoodby。Yourpacking-caseiswhatIneedandwhatIshallwant，andIloveitbecauseyoumadeit。ButasYOUsay，weunderstandanddonothavetowriteloveletters；youhavegivenmeallthatisworthwhileinme，andIloveyousothatIlookforwardalreadyovermilesandmilesanddaysandmonths，andjustseeussittingtogetheratMarionandtellingeachotherhowgooditistobetogetheragainandholdingeachother'shands。I
don'tbelieveyoureallyknowhowHAPPYIaminlovingyou，dear，andinhavingyousaynicethingsaboutme。Godblessyou，dearest，andmayIneverdoanythingtomakeyoufeellessproudofyourwickedson。
DICK。
OffGibraltar，DEARMOTHER:February12，1893。
TodayisSunday。WearriveatGibraltaratfivetomorrowmorningandtheboatliesthereuntilnineo'clock。Unlesswarandpestilencehavebrokenoutinotherplaces，IshallgoovertoTangiersinadayortwo，andfromtherecontinueonmyjourneyasmappedoutwhenIleft。IhavehadamostdelightfultripandthemostenjoyableIhaveevertakenbysea。Thesesmallboatsareasdifferentfromthebigtwin-screwsteamersasaflatfromaBroadwayhotel。
Everyonegetstoknoweverythingabouteveryoneelse，andithasbeenmorelikeayachtthanapassengersteamer。WhenI
firstcameonboardIthoughtIwouldnotfindinanynewoldcountryIwasabouttovisitanythingmoreforeignthanthepeople，andIwasright，buttheyaremostamusingandIhavelearnedagreatdeal。TheyaredifferentfromanypeopleI
know，andaretheAmericansweweretalkingabout。TheonesofwhomIusedtoreadinTheAtlanticandBlackwood's，astravelingalwaysandsinkingoutofsightwhenevertheyreachedhome。They，withtheexceptionofaBostoncouple，knownoneofmyfriendsormyhaunts，andIhavelearnedagreatdealinmeetingthem。IthasbeenmostBROADENINGandthechangehasbeenSUCHarest。IhadnoideaofhowtiredIwasoftalkingaboutthetheaterofArtsandLettersandMissWhitney'sdebutandmySoul。Thesepeoplearesimpleandunimaginativeandbourgeoistoadegreeandaskind-heartedandapparentasanimalalphabets。IdonotthinkIhavehadsuchacompletechangeorrestinyears，andIamsureIhavenotlaughedsomuchforaslong。Ofcourse，theideaofasixmonths'holidayisenoughtomakeanyonelaughatanything，butIfindthatbesidesthatIwasagooddealharassedandrundown，andIamgladtocutofffromeverythingandstartfresh。Ifeelmiserablyselfishaboutitallthetime。
TheseGermansruneverythingasthoughyouweretheowneroftheline。ThedisciplineislikethatoftheGermanArmyorofaman-of-war，everythingmovesbythestrokeofabell，andtheyhavehaddancesandspeechesandconcertsandreligiousservicesandlectureseveryotherminute。IntoalloftheseI
havegonewithmuchenthusiasm。Wehaveatthecaptain'stableDr。Field，theeditorofTheEvangelist，JohnRussell，aBostonDemocrat，whowasinCongressandwhohasbeeninpubliclifeforoverfortyyears。ATammanysachem，wholookslikeandworshipsTweed，andwhosayswhatI
neverheardanAmericanoffthestagesay:"That'sme。
That'swhatIdo，"hesays。"WhenIhaveinsomnia，Idon'tbelieveinyoursleepingdraughts。IgetupandgoroundtoJakeStewart'sonFourteenthStreetandeatafryoraporterhousesteakandthenIsleepgood——that'sme。"ThereisalsoalivelyladyfromAlbanynexttomeandherhusband，whotellsanecdotesofthewarjustasthoughithadhappenedyesterday。Indeed，theyareallsomucholderthanIthatalltheirtalkisaboutthingsIneverunderstoodthetruthabout，anditismostinteresting。IreallydonotknowwhenIhaveenjoyedmymealtimesomuch。Thefoodisverygood，althoughqueerandGerman，andwegenerallytaketwohourstoeachsitting。Dr。FieldismyespecialpreyandhemakesmelaughuntilIcry。HeisjustlikeJamesLewisin"ANightOff，"
andisalwaysrubbinghishandsandsmackinghislipsoverhisowndaringexploits。Itwisteverythinghesaysintomeaningsomethingdreadful，andheisinstantlyexplaininghedidnotreallyseeabullfight，butthathewalkedaroundtheoutsideofthebuilding。IhavepromisedtoshowhimlifewithacapitalL，andheisafraidasdeathofme。Buthegotbackatmegrandlylastnightwhenhepresentedatestimonialtothecaptain，andreferredtothecaptain'swifeandboywhomheisgoingtoseeafteratwoyears'absence，atwhichthecaptainweptandeverybodyelsewept。AndField，seeinghehadmadeapoint，wavedhisarmsandcried，"Ihaveneverknownamanwhoamountedtoanythingwhohadnotagoodwifetocarefor——exceptYOU——"heshouted，pointingatme，"andnowomanwilleversaveYOU。"Atwhichthepassengers，whofullyappreciatedhowIhadbeenworryinghim，applaudedloudly，andtheDoctorinhisdelightathavingscoredonmeforgottogivethecaptainhistestimonial。
TherearetwonicegirlsonboardfromChicagoandaqueerSoutherngirlwhopaintspicturesandsingsandwritespoetry，andwhoistravelingwithanoddmarriedwomanwhoisaninvalidandwholikeeveryoneelseonboardhasapparentlyspentallherlifeawayfromhome。IhavespentmyoddtimeinwritingthestoryItoldDadthenightbeforeIsailedandIthinkitinsomewaysthebest，quitethebest，Ihavewritten。Ireadittothequeergirlandherqueerchaperonandtheyweepwhenevertheyspeakofit，whichtheydoeveryhalfhour。Allthepassengersapparentlylaidinastockof"Gallegher"and"TheWest"beforestarting，andyoungwomeninyachtingcapsareconstantlyholdingmeupforautographsandfavoritequotations。YesterdaywepassedtheAzoresnearenoughtoseethewindowsinthehouses，andwehaveseenotherislandsatdifferenttimes，whichisquiterefreshing。
TomorrowIshallpostthisandthetripwillbeover。Ithasbeenamosthappystart。Iamnotgoingtowritelettersoften，butamgoingheadoverearsintothisnewlifeandlettheoldonewaitawhile。YoucannothandleAfricaandkeepupyourfencesinNewYorkatthesametime。IamnowgoingouttotalktotheBostoncouple，ortoproposealionhunttoDr。
Field。
SinceIwrotethatlastIhaveseenPortugal。ItmademeseemsuddenlyveryfarawayfromNewYork。Portugalisahighhillwithawhitewatchtoweronitflyingsignalflags。Itisapparentlyinhabitedbyonemanwholivesinalongrowofyellowhouseswithredroofs，andpopulatedbysheepwhodograndactsofbalancingonthesideofthehill。ThereisalsoaNavyofabrownboatwithaleg-of-muttonsailandacrewofthreemenintheboat——nottospeakofthedog。Itisagreatthingtohaveatraveledson。NoneofyoueversawPortugal，yah!
IamnowinGibraltar。Itisalargeplaceandtheredoesnotseemtoberoominthisletter，inwhichtoexpressmyfeelingsaboutMoorsinbarelegsandsixthousandRed-coatsandtohearEnglishmenspeakagain。WhenIwokeupGibraltarwasablacksilhouetteagainstthesky，buttowardthesouththerewasalowlineofmountainswitharedskybehindthem，dimandmysteriousandold，andthatwasAfrica。ThenSpainturnedupallamethystandgreen，andtheMediterraneanasblueastheytellyouitis。Theywouldn'tletmetakemygunintoGibraltar。
Theyknowmyreputationforwar。
DICK。
GIBRALTAR。
February14th，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
TheluckoftheBritishArmywhichIammodestlyfondofcomparingwithmyowntookavacationyesterdayassoonasI
hadsetfootonland。InthefirstplaceEgypthadsettleddowntohersluggishNilelikecalmandcholerahadquarantinedtheshipIwantedtotaketoAlgiers，shuttingoffAlgiersandwhatwasmoreimportantTunis。TheGovernorwasillshuttingoffthingsIwantedandhisadjutantwasboorishandproudandhaughty。ThenIdeterminedtogotoSpainbutfoundIhadarrivedjustonedaytoolateforthelastofthethreedaysoftheMardiGrasandtooearlyforbullfights。HadItakenSaavedra'slettersIshouldhavegonetoMadridandmettheQueenandotherproudfolks。SoonthewholeIwasblue。
ButIhavenowdeterminedtotakeaboatforTangieratoncewhereIhaveletterstotheDukedeTnaswhoistheMasteroftheHoundsthereandagreatsportandtheysayitisveryamusingandexciting。InafortnightIshallgotoMalta。IcalledonHarryCust'sbrotherandtoldhimwhoIwasandhetookmeinandputmeattheheadofthetableofyoungsubalternsingranduniformsandwehadmarmaladeandcoldbeefandbeerandIwashappytothevergeoftearstohearEnglishassheisspoke。
Thenwewenttoapicnicandtookteainasmuggler'scaveandallthefoxterriersranoverthetableclothandtheCaptainspilthotwateroverhiswhiteflannelsandjumpedaroundononeleg。Afterwhichweplayedahandkerchiefgamesittinginarowandpeltingthegirlswithaknottedhandkerchiefandthenfightingforit——DuringoneofthesescrimmagesMulvaney，twoothersandLearoydcamebyandwitheyesfrontandhandsattheircapsmarchedonwithstolidcountenances，buttheirofficerswereembarrassed。ItishardtoreturnasalutewithyourfaceinthesandandastoutAmericansittingonyourneckandpullingyourfirstlieutenant'sleg。Iamnowdeeplyengagedfordinnersanddancesandteasandridesandamfeelingverycheerfulagain。Iamalsoverywellthankyouandhavenoillnessesofanysort。Youtoldmetobesureandputthatin——Asyousee，Ihavecutouthalfofmytriptoavoidthecholera，soyouneednotworryaboutTHAT。
To-dayIamgoingovertherampartsasmuchastheywillallowandto-morrowIgotoTangierwhereIexpecttohavesomeboarhunting。IwouldsuggestyourgettingTheEvangelistinaweekortwoasDr。Field'sletterscoverallIhaveseen。IdonottellyouanythingabouttheplacebecauseyouwillreadthatinthepapertotheH。W。butIcanassureyouthegirlsareveryprettyandbeinggarrisongirlsarenotasshyasthoseathomeinEngland。IamthefirstAmericantheyevermettheyassuremeeveryhourandwegetonverywellnotwithstanding。
YoucanimaginewhatitislikewhenSpaniards，MoorsandEnglishSoldiersareallcrowdedintoonelongstreetwithdonkeysandgeeseandpriestsandsmugglersandmeninpoloclothesandsoldiersinfootballsuitsandsailorsfromtheman-of-war。Ofcourse，theRockisthebeststoryofitall。
Itisafairgreensmilinghillnotafortressatall。NomoreafortresstolookatthanFairmontParkwaterworks，butthejokeofitisthatundereverybushthereisagunandeverygunispaintedgreenandcoveredwithhangingcurtainsofmossandeverypromenadeisunderminedandthebleakestfaceoftherockistunnelledwithroomsandhalls。Everynightwearelockedinandthesoldierscarrythebigironkeysclankingthroughthestreets。Itisgoingtomakeinterestingreading。
DICK。
GIBRALTAR。
DEARMOTHER:February23rd，1893。
AEneaswho"rantheroundofsomanychances"inthisneighborhoodwasastationarystayathometowhatIhavetodo。IfIevergetawayfromtheRockIshallbeatravellerofthegreatestpossibleexperience。
IcamehereintendingtostayaweekandtowritemyletteronGib。andonTangierquietlyandpeacefullylikeagentlemanandthentogoontoMalta。Ilovethisplaceandthereissomethingtodoandseeeveryminuteofthetimebutwhathappenedwasthis:Alltheboatsthateverleftherestoppedrunning，brokeshafts，orwentintoquarantineorjustsailedby，andunlessIwanttospendtwoweeksontheseainordertohaveoneatMalta，whichisonlyamilitarystationlikethis，Imustgooffto-morrowwithmyarticlesunwritten，myphotosundevelopedandmydinnercallsunpaid。IamnowwaitingtohearifIcangettoAlgiersbychangingtwicefromonesteamertoanotheralongthecoastofSpain。ItwillbeagreatnuisancebutIshallbeabletoseeAlgiersandTunisandMaltainthethreeweekswhichwouldhaveotherwisebeengiventoMaltaalone。AndTunisIamparticularlykeentosee。WhilewaitingforatelegramfromSpainabouttheboats，IshalltellyouwhatIhavebeendoing。EverybodywasgladtoseemeaftermyreturnfromTangier。IdinedwiththeGovernoronMonday，inafinelargeroomlinedwithportraitsofalltheoldcommandersandtheircoats-of-armslikealittleforestofflagsandtheGovernor'sdaughterdancedaSpanishdanceforusafteritwasover。MissBuckle，Cust'sfiancee，dancesalmostaswellasCarmencita，allthegirlsherelearnitasothergirlsdothepiano。OnTuesdayCustandMissB。andanothergirlandIwentoverintoSpaintoseethemeetandwehadashortrunafterafoxwhowenttoearth，muchtomyrelief，inaboutthreeminutesandbeforeIhadbeenthrownoff。TherearenofencesbutthegroundisonemassofrocksandcactusandravinesdownwhichtheseEnglishgowithaneasethatmakesmetremblewithadmiration。Wehadnotcomeouttofollow，sowe，beingquitesoakedthroughandveryhungry，wenttoaninnanditwassuchaninnasDonQuixoteusedtostopat，withthedining-roomoverthestableandalotofdrunkenmuleteersinthecourtandbeautifulyoungwomentowaitonus。ItisabeautifulcountrySpain，witheverysortofgreenyoueverdreamedof。Wehadomelettesandnativewineandblackbreadandgotwarmagainandthentrottedhomeintherainandgotwetagain，sowestoppedattheguardhouseontheoutsideoftherockandtookteawiththeofficerinchargeandweallgotdownonourkneesaroundhisfireandhehobbledarounddroppinghiseyeglassesinhishotwaterandverymuchhonoredandexceedinglyembarrassed。Iamusedmyselfbyputtingonalltheuniformshedidnothappentohaveonandtheyoungladiesdrankteaandthawed。ThisisthemostvariousplaceIevercameacross。YouhavemountainsandseashoreandallamandaslikeMonteCarlointheirtropicalbeautyandsoldiersdayandnightmarchinganddrillingandbangingbrassbandsandtennisandgunsfiringsoastorattleallthewindows，andpicnicsandteas。IamengagedwayaheadnowbutImustgetofftomorrow。OnWashington'sbirthdayI
gavealuncheonbecauseitstruckmeasthemostinappropriateplaceinwhichonecouldcelebratethegoodman'smemoryandtheGovernorwouldnotthinkofcomingatfirst，butItoldhimIwasnotaBritishsubjectandthatifIcouldgotohisdinnerhecouldcometomylunch，sothat，orthefactthatthebeautifulMissBucklewascomingdecidedhimtowaiveetiquetteandhecamewithhisA。D。C。andhisdaughterandofficersandgirlscameandIhadAmericanflagsandEnglishflagsandaportraitofWashingtonandoftheQueenandI
ransackedthemarketsforvioletsandbankedthemallupinthemiddle。Itwasfine。IturnedthehotelupsidedownandalltheservantsworetheirbestliveryandeverybodystoodupinarowandsalutedHisExcellencyandImadeaspeechandsodidhisExcellencyandthechefdidhimselfproud。Igotitupinonemorning。HelenBenedictcouldnothavedoneitbetter。
IhadafunnyadventurethemorningIleftTangier——TherewasagooddealoftalkaboutFieldconfoundhimandmygettingintotheprisonandTheHeraldandTimescorrespondentswereratherblueaboutitandsomeoftheEnglishresidentssaidthatIhadnotbeenshownthewholeoftheprison，thattheworsthadbeenkeptfromus。
FieldwhoonlygotintotheprisonbecauseIhadworkedatittwodays，saidtherewasanadditionalwardIhadnotseen。Iwentbackintothiswhileheandtheguardweregettingthedooropentogooutandsawnothing，buttomakesurethattheprisonwasasIbelievedanabsolutesquare，Iwentbackonthemorningofmydepartureandclimbedawallandcrawledoverahousetopandphotographedthetopoftheprison。ThenahorribledoubtcametomethatthishouseuponwhichIwasstandingandwhichadjoinedtheprisonmightbetheadditionofwhichtheEnglishresidentshinted。TherewasanoldwomaninthegardenbelowjumpingupanddownandtowhomIhadbeenshyingmoneytokeepherquiet。IsenttheguidearoundtoaskherwhatwasthenatureofthebuildinguponwhichIhadtrespassedandwhichseemedtoworryhersomuch——HecamebacktotellmethatIwasonthetopofaharemandtheoldwomanthoughtI
wasgettingupaflirtationwiththegentleman'swives。SoI
droppedbackagain。
ItwillbeacoupleofmonthsatleastbeforemyfirststorycomesoutinTheWeekly。IcannotjudgeofthembutIthinktheyareuptotheaverageoftheWesternstories，thematerialismuchricherIknow，butIamsomuchbesetbythenewsightsthatIhavenotthepatienceortheleisureIhadintheWest——Thenthereweredaysinwhichwritingwasarelief，nowthereissomuchtoseethatitseemsalmostashametowasteit。
BythegraceofProvidenceIcannotleavehereuntilthe28th，muchtomyjoyandIhavefoundoutthatIcandobetterbygoingdirecttoMaltaandthentoTunis，leavingAlgierswhichIdidnotwanttoseeoutofit-Hurrah。IshallnowreturntothecalmcontinuationofmystoryandtowritingnoteswhichChaswillenjoy。
DICK。
GIBRALTAR-February1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Moroccoasitisisaveryfineplacespoiledbycivilization。
Notnicecivilizationbutthedregsofit，thebrokendownnoblemenofSpainandcashieredcaptainsofEnglandandtheR——L——'sofAmerica。Theyhuntandplaycricketandgambleanddonothingtomaintainwhatisbestintheplaceortohelpwhatisworst。IlovetheMoorsandthewaytheyhatetheChristianandthescornandpridetheyshow。TheyseemtocarryallthemysteryanddignityofAfricaandofforeignconquestsaboutthem，andtheyarewonderfullywellmadeandfinelookingandself-respecting。Thecolorisverybeautiful，buttheforeignelementspoilsitateveryturn。
OneshouldreallygoinlandbutIshallnotbecauseImeantodothatwhenIreachCairo。EverybodygoesinlandfromhereandBonsalhascovereditalready。Heisagreatmanhereamongallclasses。
IhaveboughttwolonggunsandthreepistolsthreefeetlongandaMoorishcostumeforafternoonteas。Ishalllookfine。
Myguide'sideaofpleasingmeistokickeverybodyoutofthewaywhichalwaysbringsdowncursesonmesoIhavetogobackandgivethemmoneyandamsograduallybecomingpopularandmuchsoughtafterbyblindbeggars。Youcangetthreepoundsofcopperforafrancanditlastsalldaythrowingitrightandleftallthetime。ImadeagreattearinBonsal'srecordtodaybyrefusingtopayasnakecharmerallhewantedandthenwhenheprotestedItookoneofthesnakesoutofhishandsandswungitaroundmyheadtothedelightofthepeople。IwantedtoshowhimhewasafakirtowantmetopayforwhatIwoulddomyself。Itwasalargesnakeaboutfourfeetlong。Thenmyhorseandanotherhorsegotfightingintheprincipalstreetinthecitystandingupontheirhindlegsandboxinglikemenandbitingandsquealing。ItwasawfulandIgotmineoutofthewayandwastrodonandhadmyarmnearlypulledoffandthecrowdapplaudedandaskedmyguidewhetherIwasAmericanorEnglish。TheydonotliketheEnglish。SowiththelowerclassesImaysaythatIamhavingasocialsuccess。
DICK。
OffMalta——March1，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Ihavebeenhavingadelightfulvoyagewithmoonlightallnightandsunlightallday。AfricakeptinsightmostofthetimeandbeforethatwesawbeautifulmountainsinSpaincoveredwithsnowandredinthesunset。TherewerealotofniceEnglishpeoplegoingouttoIndiatomeettheirhusbandsandwehave"tiffin"and"choota"and"curry，"soitreallyseemedoriental。ThethirdnightoutwesawAlgierssparklinglikeConeyIsland。IplaygameswithmyselfandpretendIamatmyroomsreadingastorywhichisveryhardtopretendasIneverreadinmyroomsandthenIlookupandexclaim"Hello，I'mnotinNewYork，that'sAlgiers。"Thethingthathasimpressedmemostishowabsolutelysmalltheworldisandhowchildishlyeasyitistogoaroundit。YouandNoraMUSTtakethistrip；asformeIthinkWillieChanleristhemostsensibleindividualIhaveyetmet。
AllthefascinationofKingSolomon'sMinesseemstobebehindthosegreatmountainsandthisImayaddisabitofadvanceworkformother，anenteringwedgetomydisappearingfromsightforyearsandyearsintheCongo。Which，seriously，I
willnotdo；onlyitisdisappointingtofindtheearthsosmallandsoeasilyencompassedthatyouwanttogoonwhereitisolder，andnew。Theworstofitisthatitishardleavingallthenicepeopleyoumeetandthenmustsaygood-byeto。TheyoungladiesandCapt。BuckleandCustcamedowntoseemeoffandBucklebroughtmeaphotofourfeetlongofGib，anofficialonewhichIhadtosmuggleoutwithagreatshowofsecrecyandnowIshallbesorrytoleavethesepeople。JustasIwrotethatoneoftheofficersgoingouttojoinhisregimentcametothedoorandblushingsaidthepassengersweregettinguparoundrobinaskingmetostoponandgotoCairo。
Sincewritingtheabovelotsofthingshavehappened。IbidfarewelltoeveryoneatMaltaandyetinfourhoursIwasbackagainbagandbaggageandamnowonmywaytoCairo。TunisandtheBeyareimpossible。AssoonasIlandedatMaltaIfoundthatthoughIcouldgotoTunisIcouldnotgoawaywithoutbeingquarantinedfortendaysandifIremainedinMaltaImuststayaweek。OnbalancingaweekofEgyptagainstaweekofMaltaI
couldnotdoitsoIputbacktothissteameragainandhereI
am。TomorrowwereachBrindisiandwehavealreadypassedSicilyandhadaglimpseofthetoeofItalyanditisthecoldestsunnyItalythatIeverimagined。IambitterlydisappointedaboutTunis。IhavenoletterstobigpeopleinCairoonlysubalternsbutIshallprobablygetalong。Ialwaysmanagesomehowwithmy"artfullittleIkeyways。"Itwasmostgratifyingtomarkmyreturntothisboat。OneyoungwomandancedaKangaroodanceandtheCaptainweptandallthestewardsstoodinalineandgrinned。IsingChevalier'ssongsandtheyallsitinthediningroombelowandforgettolayouttheplatesandlastnightsomeoftheRoyalBerkshirewithwhomIdinedatMaltacameonboardandafterhearingtheOldKentRoadwereonthepointofMutinyandrefusedtoreturntobarracks。GreatisthePowerofChevalierandgreatishispowerfortakingyoubacktoLondonwiththreeopeningbars。MaltawasthequeerestplaceIevergotinto。Itwaslikeacity，countryandislandmadeofcheese，mouldycheese，andfreshlimburgercheesewithholesinit。Yousailedrightuptothefrontdoorasitwereandpeoplewerehangingoutofthewindowssmokingpipesandlookingdownonthedeckascomplacentlyasthoughhavinganoceansteamerintheyardwasasmuchamatterofcourseasaperambulator。TherewerealsowomenwithblackhoodswhichtheywearasapenancebecauselongagotheladiesofMaltagotthemselvestalkedabout。IwasonshoreaboutfivehoursandsawsomeinterestingthingsandwiththatandBrindisiandthevoyageIcanmakeathirdletterbutTunisiswritonmyheartlikeCalais。
TodayClevelandisinauguratedandItookallthepassengersdownatthepropertimeandexplainedtothemthatatthatmomentagreatmanwasbeingmadepresidentandgavethemeachanAmericancocktailtorememberitbyandinwhichtotoasthimIamgettingtobeagreatspeechmakerandifthereareanymoreanniversariesinAmericaIshallbeasecondDepew。
Itislatebutitisstilltheseasonhereanditwillbegay，butwhatIwanttodonowistogooffonalittletripinlandalthoughCairoistheworstofallforitissurroundedbydesertsandnothingtoshootbutantelopeandfoxesandthoseISCORN。IwantZulusandlions。IshallbegreatlydisappointedifIdonothavesomethingtodooutsideofCairoforIhavehadnoadventuresatall。ItisjustascivilizedasCamdenonlymoreexcitingandbeautifulalthoughCamdenisexcitingwhenyouhavetogetthereandbackintimeforthelastedition。FromwhatIhavealreadyseenIamreadytospendamonthinCairoandthenconfesstoknowingnothingofit。Butweshallsee。TheremaybeaWARoralionhuntorsomethingyetifthereisnotIshallcomebackhereagain。I
mustfirethatWinchesteroffatleastoncejustforallthetroubleithasgivenmeatcustomhouses。SomethingexcitingmusthappenorIshalllosefaithintheluckoftheBritisharmywhichmarchesshouldertoshoulderwithmine。IfIdon'thaveanyadventuresIshallwriteessaysonartafterthislikeMrs。Van。Loveandlotsofit。
DICK。
CAIRO，March11，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Inafamousbookthislineoccurs，"HedeterminedtogotothathotelinCairowheretheyweretohavespenttheirhoneymoon，"orwordslikethat。Heisnowatthathotelandyoucanbuythefamousbookacrossthestreet。Itiscalled"Gallegher。"So——inthiswayeverythingcomestohimwhowaitsandhecomestoit。"Gallegher"isnottheonlythingyoubuyinEgypt。YouridetothePyramidsonabrakewithamaninawhitefelthatblowingahorn，andthebugleroftheArmyofOccupationisasmuchinevidenceasthepriestwhocallsthemtoprayerfromtheminaret。IleftthepeopleI
likedontheSulteylastThursdayintheSuezCanalandcameonhereinaspecialtrain。Itisverycoldhere，anditisnotaplacewherethecoldisinkeepingwiththesurroundings。
Youseepeopleinwhitehelmetsandastrakanovercoats。
Itisanimmensecityandintenselyinteresting，especiallythebazaars，butyoufeelsoignorantaboutitallthatitratherangersyou。IwishIwasnotsuchaverybadhandatlanguages。ThatisONETHINGIcannotdo，thatandride。I
needitverymuch，travelingsomuch，andIshallstudyveryhardwhileIaminParis。Ourconsul-generalhereisaveryyoungman，andheshowedmeaKansaspaperwhenIcalledonhim，whichsaidthatIwasintheEastandwouldprobablycallon"Ed"L。HeisveryciviltomeandgivesmehiscarriagesandoutriderswithgoldclothesandswordswheneverIwilltakethem。
Itissobeastlycoldherethatitspoilsalotofthings，andtherearealotofAmericanswhosay，"Ihadnoideayouweresoyoungaman，"andthat，afterbeingfiveyearsoldforamonthandplayingchildren'sgameswithEnglishpeoplewhodidn'tknoworcareanythingaboutyouexceptthatyoumadethemlaugh，israthertrying。Iamdisappointedsofarinthetripbecauseithasdevelopednothingnewbeyondthefactthatgoingaroundtheworldisofnomoreimportancethangoingtobreakfast，andIamselfishinmysightseeingandwanttoseethingsothersdonot。Andifyouevendoseemorethanthosewhoarenotsofortunateandwhohavetoremainathome，stillyouaresoignorantincomparisonwiththosewhohavelivedhereforyearsandtowhomthewholeofAfricaisaspeculationinlandorrailroads，itmakesyoufeellikesuchafakerandasifitwerebettertoturncorrespondentfortheN。Y。Herald，Parisedition，andsendbackthenamesofthosewhoarestayingatthehotels。Thatisreallyallyoucanspeakwithauthorityabout。WhenyouhaveGordonandStanleydishesonthebill-of-fare，youfeelashamedtosayyou'vebeeninEgypt。Anyway，IamafakerandIdon'tcare，andIprovedittodaybybeingphotographedonacamelinfrontofthePyramids，andifthatwasn'timpertinenceIdonotknowitsname。IaccordinglywentandboughtalotofgolddressesforNoraasapenance。
Asamatteroffact，unlessIgetintotheinteriorforamonthandseesomethingnew，Ishallconsiderthetripafailure，exceptasamostamusingholidayforone，andthatwasnotexactlywhatIwantedorallIwanted。AfterthisI
shallgotobigcitiesonlyandstaythere。Everybodytravelsandeverybodyseesasmuchasyoudoandsaysnothingofit，certainlydoesnotpresumetowriteabookaboutit。Anyway，ithasbeengreatfun，soIshallputitdowntothatanddosomeseriousworktomakeupforit。I'dratherhavewrittenagoodstoryabouttheInaugurationthanaboutCairo。
Iamwell，asusual，andhavingafineloaf，onlyIdon'tthinkmuchofwhatIhavewritten——that'sall。
DICK。
CAIRO，March19th，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
IwentupthePyramidsyesterdayandIamverysoretoday。Itsoundseasybecausesomanypeopledoit，buttheydoitbecausetheydon'tknow。Ihavebeenputtingitoff，andputtingitoff，untilIfeltashamedtosuchadegreethatI
hadtogo。Littlehadneverbeeneither，sowewentouttogetherandmetStanfordWhiteandtheEmmettsthere，andweallwentup。IwouldrathergointoCentralAfricathandoitagain。Iamgettingfatandthat'saboutit——andIhadtohalfpullamuchfattermanthanmyselfwhopretendedtohelpme。IfinallytoldthemI'dgoaloneunlessthefatmanwentaway，sotheothertwodrovehimoff。Goingdownisworse。