Grundymustallowhimlicence。Wherehisownpurseandcreditarenotthreatened，hewilldothehonoursofhisvillagegenerously。
Anyartistismadewelcome，throughwhatevermediumhemayseekexpression；scienceisrespected；eventheidler，ifheprove，ashesorarelydoes，agentleman，willsoonbegintofindhimselfathome。Andwhenthatessentiallymoderncreature，theEnglishorAmericangirl-student，begantowalkcalmlyintohisfavouriteinnsasifintoadrawing-roomathome，theFrenchpainterownedhimselfdefenceless；hesubmittedorhefled。HisFrenchrespectability，quiteaspreciseasours，thoughcoveringdifferentprovincesoflife，recoiledaghastbeforetheinnovation。Butthegirlswerepainters；therewasnothingtobedone；andBarbizon，whenIlastsawitandforthetimeatleast，waspracticallycededtothefairinvader。Paterfamilias，ontheotherhand，thecommontourist，theholidayshopman，andthecheapyounggentlemanuponthespree，hehoundedfromhisvillageswitheverycircumstanceofcontumely。
Thispurelyartisticsocietyisexcellentfortheyoungartist。
Theladsaremostlyfools；theyholdthelatestorthodoxyinitscrudeness；theyareatthatstageofeducation，forthemostpart，whenamanistoomuchoccupiedwithstyletobeawareofthenecessityforanymatter；andthis，aboveallfortheEnglishman，isexcellent。Toworkgrosslyatthetrade，toforgetsentiment，tothinkofhismaterialandnothingelse，is，forawhileatleast，theking'shighwayofprogress。Here，inEngland，toomanypaintersandwritersdwelldispersed，unshielded，amongtheintelligentbourgeois。These，whentheyarenotmerelyindifferent，pratetohimabouttheloftyaimsandmoralinfluenceofart。Andthisisthelad'sruin。Forartis，firstofallandlastofall，atrade。Theloveofwordsandnotadesiretopublishnewdiscoveries，theloveofformandnotanovelreadingofhistoricalevents，markthevocationofthewriterandthepainter。Thearabesque，properlyspeaking，andeveninliterature，isthefirstfancyoftheartist；hefirstplayswithhismaterialasachildplayswithakaleidoscope；andheisalreadyinasecondstagewhenhebeginstousehisprettycountersfortheendofrepresentation。Inthat，hemustpauselongandtoilfaithfully；
thatishisapprenticeship；anditisonlythefewwhowillreallygrowbeyondit，andgoforward，fullyequipped，todothebusinessofrealart-togivelifetoabstractionsandsignificanceandcharmtofacts。Inthemeanwhile，lethimdwellmuchamonghisfellow-craftsmen。Theyalonecantakeaseriousinterestinthechildishtasksandpitifulsuccessesoftheseyears。Theyalonecanbeholdwithequanimitythisfingeringofthedumbkeyboard，thispolishingofemptysentences，thisdullandliteralpaintingofdullandinsignificantsubjects。Outsiderswillspurhimon。
Theywillsay，"Whydoyounotwriteagreatbook？paintagreatpicture？"Ifhisguardianangelfailhim，theymayevenpersuadehimtotheattempt，and，tentoone，hishandiscoarsenedandhisstylefalsifiedforlife。
Andthisbringsmetoawarning。Thelifeoftheapprenticetoanyartisbothunstrainedandpleasing；itisstrewnwithsmallsuccessesinthemidstofacareeroffailure，patientlysupported；
theheaviestscholarisconsciousofacertainprogress；andifhecomenotappreciablynearertotheartofShakespeare，growsletter-perfectinthedomainofA-B，ab。Butthetimecomeswhenamanshouldceaseprelusorygymnastic，standup，putaviolenceuponhiswill，and，forbetterorworse，beginthebusinessofcreation。
Thisevildaythereisatendencycontinuallytopostpone:aboveallwithpainters。Theyhavemadesomanystudiesthatithasbecomeahabit；theymakemore，thewallsofexhibitionsblushwiththem；anddeathfindstheseagedstudentsstillbusywiththeirhorn-book。Thisclassofmanfindsacongenialhomeinartistvillages；intheslangoftheEnglishcolonyatBarbizonweusedtocallthem"Snoozers。"Continualreturnstothecity，thesocietyofmenfartheradvanced，thestudyofgreatworks，asenseofhumouror，ifsuchathingistobehad，alittlereligionorphilosophy，arethemeansoftreatment。Itwillbetimeenoughtothinkofcuringthemaladyafterithasbeencaught；fortocatchitistheverythingforwhichyouseekthatdream-landofthepainters'village。"Snoozing"isapartoftheartisticeducation；
andtherudimentsmustbelearnedstupidly，allelsebeingforgotten，asiftheywereanobjectinthemselves。
Lastly，thereissomething，orthereseemstobesomething，intheveryairofFrancethatcommunicatestheloveofstyle。Precision，clarity，thecleanlyandcraftyemploymentofmaterial，agraceinthehandling，apartfromanyvalueinthethought，seemtobeacquiredbythemereresidence；orifnotacquired，becomeatleastthemoreappreciated。TheairofParisisalivewiththistechnicalinspiration。Andtoleavethatairycityandawakenextdayuponthebordersoftheforestisbuttochangeexternals。Thesamespiritofdexterityandfinishbreathesfromthelongalleysandtheloftygroves，fromthewildernessesthatarestillprettyintheirconfusion，andthegreatplainthatcontrivestobedecorativeinitsemptiness。
II
Inspiteofitsreallyconsiderableextent，theforestofFontainebleauishardlyanywheretedious。Iknowthewholewesternsideofitwithwhat，Isuppose，Imaycallthoroughness；wellenoughatleasttotestifythatthereisnosquaremilewithoutsomespecialcharacterandcharm。Suchquarters，forinstance，astheLongRocher，theBas-Breau，andtheReineBlanche，mightbeahundredmilesapart；theyhavescarceapointincommonbeyondthesilenceofthebirds。Thetwolastarereallyconterminous；andinbotharetallandancienttreesthathaveoutlivedathousandpoliticalvicissitudes。Butintheonethegreatoaksprosperplacidlyuponanevenfloor；theybeshadowagreatfield；andtheairandthelightareveryfreebelowtheirstretchingboughs。Intheotherthetreesfinddifficultfooting；castlesofwhiterocklietumbledoneuponanother，thefootslips，thecrookedviperslumbers，themossclingsinthecrevice；andaboveitallthegreatbeechgoesspiringandcastingforthherarms，and，withagracebeyondchurcharchitecture，canopiesthisruggedchaos。
Meanwhile，dividingthetwocantons，thebroadwhitecausewayoftheParisroadrunsinanavenue:aroadconceivedforpageantryandfortriumphalmarches，anavenueforanarmy；but，itsdaysofgloryover，itnowliesgrillinginthesunbetweencoolgroves，andonlyatintervalsthevehicleofthecruisingtouristisseenfarawayandfaintlyaudiblealongitsamplesweep。Alittleupononeside，andyoufindadistrictofsandandbirchandboulder；alittleupontheotherliesthevalleyofApremont，alljuniperandheather；andclosebeyondthatyoumaywalkintoazoneofpinetrees。Soartfullyaretheingredientsmingled。Normustitbeforgottenthat，inallthispart，youcomecontinuallyforthuponahill-top，andbeholdtheplain，northwardandwestward，likeanunrefulgentsea；northatalldaylongtheshadowskeepchanging；
andatlast，totheredfiresofsunset，nightsucceeds，andwiththenightanewforest，fullofwhisper，gloom，andfragrance。
TherearefewthingsmorerenovatingthantoleaveParis，thelamplitarchesoftheCarrousel，andthelongalignmentoftheglitteringstreets，andtobathethesensesinthisfragrantdarknessofthewood。
Inthiscontinualvarietythemindiskeptvividlyalive。Itisachangefulplacetopaint，astirringplacetolivein。Asfastasyourfootcarriesyou，youpassfromscenetoscene，eachvigorouslypaintedinthecoloursofthesun，eachendearedbythathereditaryspellofforestsonthemindofmanwhostillremembersandsalutestheancientrefugeofhisrace。
Andyettheforesthasbeencivilisedthroughout。Themostsavagecornersbearaname，andhavebeencherishedlikeantiquities；inthemostremote，Naturehaspreparedandbalancedhereffectsasifwithconsciousart；andman，withhisguidingarrowsofbluepaint，hascountersignedthepicture。Afteryourfarthestwandering，youareneversurprisedtocomeforthuponthevastavenueofhighway，tostrikethecentrepointofbranchingalleys，ortofindtheaqueducttrailing，thousand-footed，throughthebrush。Itisnotawilderness；itisratherapreserve。And，fitlyenough，thecentreofthemazeisnotahermit'scavern。Inthemidst，alittlemirthfultownliessunlit，hummingwiththebusinessofpleasure；
andthepalace，breathingdistinctionandpeopledbyhistoricnames，standssmokelessamonggardens。
Perhapsthelastattemptatsavagelifewasthatoftheharmlesshumbugwhocalledhimselfthehermit。Inagreattree，closebythehighroad，hehadbuilthimselfalittlecabinafterthemanneroftheSwissFamilyRobinson；thitherhemountedatnight，bytheromanticaidofaropeladder；andifdirtbeanyproofofsincerity，themanwassavageasaSioux。Ihadthepleasureofhisacquaintance；heappearedgrosslystupid，notinhisperfectwits，andinterestedinnothingbutsmallchange；forthathehadagreatavidity。Inthecourseoftimeheprovedtobeachicken-
stealer，andvanishedfromhisperch；andperhapsfromthefirsthewasnotruevotaryofforestfreedom，butaningenious，theatrically-mindedbeggar，andhiscabininthetreewasonlystock-in-tradetobegwithal。Thechoiceofhispositionwouldseemtoindicatesomuch；forifintheforesttherearenoplacesstilltobediscovered，therearemanythathavebeenforgotten，andthatlieunvisited。There，tobesure，arethebluearrowswaitingtoreconductyou，nowblazeduponatree，nowpostedinthecornerofarock。Butyoursecurityfrominterruptioniscomplete；
youmightcampforweeks，iftherewereonlywater，andnotasoulsuspectyourpresence；andifImaysupposethereadertohavecommittedsomegreatcrimeandcometomeforaid，IthinkIcouldstillfindmywaytoasmallcavern，fittedwithahearthandchimney，wherehemightlieperfectlyconcealed。Aconfederatelandscape-paintermightdailysupplyhimwithfood；forwater，hewouldhavetomakeanightlytrampasfarastothenearestpond；
andatlast，whenthehueandcrybegantoblowover，hemightgetgentlyonthetrainatsomesidestation，workroundbyaseriesofjunctions，andbequietlycapturedatthefrontier。
ThusFontainebleau，althoughitistrulybutapleasure-ground，andalthough，infavourableweather，andinthemorecelebratedquarters，itliterallybuzzeswiththetourist，yethassomeoftheimmunitiesandofferssomeofthereposeofnaturalforests。Andthesolitary，althoughhemustreturnatnighttohisfrequentedinn，mayyetpassthedaywithhisownthoughtsinthecompanionablesilenceofthetrees。Thedemandsoftheimaginationvary；somecanbealoneinabackgardenlookeduponbywindows；
others，liketheostrich，arecontentwithasolitudethatmeetstheeye；andothers，again，expandinfancytotheverybordersoftheirdesert，andareirritablyconsciousofahunter'scampinanadjacentcounty。Totheselast，ofcourse，Fontainebleauwillseembutanextendedtea-garden:aRoshervilleonaby-day。Buttotheplainmanitofferssolitude:anexcellentthinginitself，andagoodwhetforcompany。
III
IwasforsometimeaconsistentBarbizonian；ETEGOINARCADIA
VIXI，itwasapleasantseason；andthatnoiselesshamletlyingcloseamongthebordersofthewoodisforme，asforsomanyothers，agreenspotinmemory。ThegreatMilletwasjustdead，thegreenshuttersofhismodesthousewereclosed；hisdaughterswereinmourning。Thedateofmyfirstvisitwasthusanepochinthehistoryofart:inalesserway，itwasanepochinthehistoryoftheLatinQuarter。ThePETITCENACLEwasdeadandburied；Murgerandhiscrewofspongingvagabondswereallatrestfromtheirexpedients；thetraditionoftheirreallifewasnearlylost；andthepetrifiedlegendoftheVIEDEBOHEMEhadbecomeasortofgospel，andstillgavethecuetozealousimitators。Butifthebookbewritteninrose-water，theimitationwasstillfartherexpurgated；honestywastherule；theinnkeepersgave，asI
havesaid，almostunlimitedcredit；theysufferedtheseediestpaintertodepart，totakeallhisbelongings，andtoleavehisbillunpaid；andiftheysometimeslost，itwasbyEnglishandAmericansalone。Atthesametime，thegreatinfluxofAnglo-
Saxonshadbeguntoaffectthelifeofthestudious。Therehadbeendisputes；and，inoneinstanceatleast，theEnglishandtheAmericanshadmadecommoncausetopreventacruelpleasantry。Itwouldbewellifnationsandracescouldcommunicatetheirqualities；butinpracticewhentheylookuponeachother，theyhaveaneyetonothingbutdefects。TheAnglo-Saxonisessentiallydishonest；theFrenchisdevoidbynatureoftheprinciplethatwecall"FairPlay。"TheFrenchmanmarvelledatthescruplesofhisguest，and，whenthatdefenderofinnocenceretiredover-seasandlefthisbillsunpaid，hemarvelledonceagain；thegoodandevilwere，inhiseyes，partandparcelofthesameeccentricity；ashrugexpressedhisjudgmentuponboth。
AtBarbizontherewasnomaster，nopontiffinthearts。PalizziboreruleatGretz-urbane，superiorrule-hismemoryrichinanecdotesofthegreatmenofyore，hismindfertileintheories；
sceptical，composed，andvenerabletotheeye；andyetbeneaththeseoutworks，alltwitteringwithItaliansuperstition，hiseyescoutingforomens，andthewholefabricofhismannersgivingwayontheappearanceofahunchback。CernayhadPelouse，theadmirable，placidPelouse，smilinglycriticalofyouth，who，whenafull-blowncommercialtraveller，suddenlythrewdownhissamples，boughtacolour-box，andbecamethemasterwhomwehavealladmired。Marlotte，foracentralfigure，boastedOlivierdePenne。
OnlyBarbizon，sincethedeathofMillet，wasaheadlesscommonwealth。Evenitssecondarylights，andthosewhoinmydaymadethestrangerwelcome，havesincedesertedit。ThegoodLachevrehasdeparted，carryinghishouseholdgods；andlongbeforethatGastonLafenestrewastakenfromourmidstbyanuntimelydeath。Hediedbeforehehaddeservedsuccess；itmaybe，hewouldneverhavedeservedit；buthiskind，comely，modestcountenancestillhauntsthememoryofallwhoknewhim。Another-whomIwillnotname-hasmovedfartheron，pursuingthestrangeOdysseyofhisdecadence。Hisdaysofroyalfavourhaddepartedeventhen；
buthestillretained，inhisnarrowerlifeatBarbizon，acertainstampofconsciousimportance，hearty，friendly，fillingtheroom，theoccupantofseveralchairs；norhadheyetceasedhislosingbattle，stilllabouringupongreatcanvasesthatnonewouldbuy，stillwaitingthereturnoffortune。Butthesedaysalsoweretoogoodtolast；andtheformerfavouriteoftwosovereignsfled，ifI
heardthetruth，bynight。Therewasatimewhenhewascountedagreatman，andMilletbutadauber；behold，howthewhirligigoftimebringsinhisrevenges!TopityMilletisapieceofarrogance；iflifebehardforsuchresoluteandpiousspirits，itisharderstillforus，hadwethewittounderstandit；butwemaypityhisunhappierrival，who，fornoapparentmerit，wasraisedtoopulenceandmomentaryfame，and，throughnoapparentfaultwassufferedstepbysteptosinkagaintonothing。Nomisfortunecanexceedthebitternessofsuchback-foremostprogress，evenbravelysupportedasitwas；buttothosealsowhoweretakenearlyfromtheeasel，aregretisdue。Fromalltheyoungmenofthisperiod，onestoodoutbythevigourofhispromise；hewasintheageoffermentation，enamouredofeccentricities。"Ilfautfairedelapeinturenouvelle，"washiswatchword；butiftimeandexperiencehadcontinuedhiseducation，ifhehadbeengrantedhealthtoreturnfromtheseexcursionstothesteadyandthecentral，ImustbelievethatthenameofHillshadbecomefamous。
Siron'sinn，thatexcellentartists'barrack，wasmanageduponeasyprinciples。Atanyhourofthenight，whenyoureturnedfromwanderingintheforest，youwenttothebilliard-roomandhelpedyourselftoliquors，ordescendedtothecellarandreturnedladenwithbeerorwine。TheSironswerealllockedinslumber；therewasnonetocheckyourinroads；onlyattheweek'sendacomputationwasmade，thegrosssumwasdivided，andavaryingsharesetdowntoeverylodger'snameundertherubric:ESTRATS。
Uponthemorelong-sufferingthelargertaxwaslevied；andyourbilllengthenedinadirectproportiontotheeasinessofyourdisposition。Atanyhourofthemorning，again，youcouldgetyourcoffeeorcoldmilk，andsetforthintotheforest。Thedoveshadperhapswakenedyou，flutteringintoyourchamber；andonthethresholdoftheinnyouweremetbythearomaoftheforest。
Closebywerethegreataisles，themossyboulders，theinterminablefieldofforestshadow。Thereyouwerefreetodreamandwander。Andatnoon，andagainatsixo'clock，agoodmealawaitedyouonSiron'stable。Thewholeofyouraccommodation，setasidethatvaryingitemoftheESTRALS，costyoufivefrancsaday；
yourbillwasneverofferedyouuntilyouaskedit；andifyouwereoutofluck'sway，youmightdepartforwhereyoupleasedandleaveitpending。
IV
Theoretically，thehousewasopentoallcorners；practically，itwasakindofclub。Theguestsprotectedthemselves，and，insodoing，theyprotectedSiron。Formalmannersbeinglaidaside，essentialcourtesywasthemorerigidlyexacted；thenewarrivalhadtofeelthepulseofthesociety；andabreachofitsundefinedobservanceswaspromptlypunished。Amanmightbeasplain，asdull，asslovenly，asfreeofspeechashedesired；buttoatouchofpresumptionorawordofhectoringthesefreeBarbizonianswereassensitiveasatea-partyofmaidenladies。IhaveseenpeopledrivenforthfromBarbizon；itwouldbedifficulttosayinwordswhattheyhaddone，buttheydeservedtheirfate。Theyhadshownthemselvesunworthytoenjoythesecorporatefreedoms；theyhadpushedthemselves；theyhad"madetheirhead"；theywantedtacttoappreciatethe"fineshades"ofBarbizonianetiquette。Andoncetheywerecondemned，theprocessofextrusionwasruthlessinitscruelty；afteroneeveningwiththeformidableBodmer，theBailyofourcommonwealth，theerringstrangerwasbeheldnomore；heroseexceedingearlythenextday，andthefirstcoachconveyedhimfromthesceneofhisdiscomfiture。Thesesentencesofbanishmentwerenever，inmyknowledge，deliveredagainstanartist；suchwould，I
believe，havebeenillegal；buttheoddandpleasantfactisthis，thattheywereneverneeded。Painters，sculptors，writers，singers，IhaveseenalloftheseinBarbizon；andsomeweresulky，andsomeblatantandinane；butoneandallenteredatonceintothespiritoftheassociation。ThissingularsocietyispurelyFrench，acreatureofFrenchvirtues，andpossiblyofFrenchdefects。ItcannotbeimitatedbytheEnglish。Theroughness，theimpatience，themoreobviousselfishness，andeventhemoreardentfriendshipsoftheAnglo-Saxon，speedilydismembersuchacommonwealth。ButthisrandomgatheringofyoungFrenchpainters，withneitherapparatusnorparadeofgovernment，yetkeptthelifeoftheplaceuponacertainfooting，insensiblyimposedtheiretiquetteuponthedocile，andbycausticspeechenforcedtheiredictsagainsttheunwelcome。Tothinkofitistowonderthemoreatthestrangefailureoftheirraceuponthelargertheatre。Thisinbredcivility-tousethewordinitscompletestmeaning-thisnaturalandfacileadjustmentofcontendingliberties，seemsallthatisrequiredtomakeagovernablenationandajustandprosperouscountry。
Oursociety，thuspurgedandguarded，wasfullofhighspirits，oflaughter，andoftheinitiativeofyouth。Thefeweldermenwhojoineduswerestillyoungatheart，andtookthekeyfromtheircompanions。Wereturnedfromlongstationsinthefortifyingair，ourbloodrenewedbythesunshine，ourspiritsrefreshedbythesilenceoftheforest；theBabelofloudvoicessoundedgood；wefelltoeatandplaylikethenaturalman；andinthehighinnchamber，panelledwithindifferentpicturesandlitbycandlesgutteringinthenightair，thetalkandlaughtersoundedfarintothenight。Itwasagoodplaceandagoodlifeforanynaturally-
mindedyouth；betteryetforthestudentofpainting，andperhapsbestofallforthestudentofletters。He，too，wassaturatedinthisatmosphereofstyle；hewasshutoutfromthedisturbingcurrentsoftheworld，hemightforgetthatthereexistedotherandmorepressingintereststhanthatofart。But，insuchaplace，itwashardlypossibletowrite；hecouldnotdrughisconscience，likethepainter，bytheproductionoflistlessstudies；hesawhimselfidleamongmanywhowereapparently，andsomewhowerereally，employed；andwhatwiththeimpulseofincreasinghealthandthecontinualprovocationofromanticscenes，hebecametormentedwiththedesiretowork。Heenjoyedastrenuousidlenessfullofvisions，heartymeals，long，swelteringwalks，mirthamongcompanions；andstillfloatinglikemusicthroughhisbrain，foresightsofgreatworksthatShakespearemightbeproudtohaveconceived，headlessepics，glorioustorsosofdramas，andwordsthatwerealivewithimport。Soinyouth，likeMosesfromthemountain，wehavesightsofthatHouseBeautifulofartwhichweshallneverenter。Theyaredreamsandunsubstantial；visionsofstylethatreposeuponnobaseofhumanmeaning；thelastheart-
throbsofthatexcitedamateurwhohastodieinallofusbeforetheartistcanbeborn。Buttheycometousinsucharainbowofglorythatallsubsequentachievementappearsdullandearthlyincomparison。Wewereallartists；almostallintheageofillusion，cultivatinganimaginarygenius，andwalkingtothestrainsofsomedeceivingAriel；smallwonder，indeed，ifwewerehappy!Butart，ofwhatevernature，isakindmistress；andthoughthesedreamsofyouthfallbytheirownbaselessness，otherssucceed，graverandmoresubstantial；thesymptomschange，theamiablemaladyendures；andstill，atanequaldistance，theHouseBeautifulshinesuponitshill-top。
V
Gretzliesoutoftheforest，downbythebrightriver。Itboastsamill，anancientchurch，acastle，andabridgeofmanysterlings。Andthebridgeisapieceofpublicproperty；
anonymouslyfamous；beamingontheincuriousdilettantefromthewallsofahundredexhibitions。IhaveseenitintheSalon；I