theyfloat，alittlehigher，incloudsofagiganticsizeandoftenofawildconfiguration；tothesouth，wheretheyhavestrucktheseawardshoulderofthemountainsofSantaLucia，theydoublebackandspireupskywardlikesmoke。Wheretheirshadowtouches，colourdiesoutoftheworld。Theairgrowschillanddeadlyastheyadvance。Thetrade-windfreshens，thetreesbegintosigh，andallthewindmillsinMontereyarewhirlingandcreakingandfillingtheircisternswiththebrackishwaterofthesands。Ittakesbutalittlewhiletilltheinvasioniscomplete。Thesea，initslighterorder，hassubmergedtheearth。Montereyiscurtainedinforthenightinthick，wet，salt，andfrigidclouds，sotoremaintilldayreturns；andbeforethesun'sraystheyslowlydisperseandretreatinbrokensquadronstothebosomofthesea。Andyetoftenwhenthefogisthickestandmostchill，afewstepsoutofthetownanduptheslope，thenightwillbedryandwarmandfullofinlandperfume。
　　MEXICANS，AMERICANS，ANDINDIANS
　　ThehistoryofMontereyhasyettobewritten。FoundedbyCatholicmissionaries，aplaceofwisebeneficencetoIndians，aplaceofarms，aMexicancapitalcontinuallywrestedbyonefactionfromanother，anAmericancapitalwhenthefirstHouseofRepresentativeshelditsdeliberations，andthenfallinglowerandlowerfromthecapitaloftheStatetothecapitalofacounty，andfromthatagain，bythelossofitscharterandtownlands，toamerebankruptvillage，itsriseanddeclineistypicalofthatofallMexicaninstitutionsandevenMexicanfamiliesinCalifornia。
　　NothingisstrangerinthatstrangeStatethantherapiditywithwhichthesoilhaschanged-hands。TheMexicans，youmaysay，areallpoorandlandless，liketheirformercapital；andyetbothitandtheyholdthemselvesapartandpreservetheirancientcustomsandsomethingoftheirancientair。
　　Thetown，whenIwasthere，wasaplaceoftwoorthreestreets，economicallypavedwithsea-sand，andtwoorthreelanes，whichwerewatercoursesintherainyseason，andwere，atalltimes，rentupbyfissuresfourorfivefeetdeep。Therewerenostreetlights。Shortsectionsofwoodensidewalkonlyaddedtothedangersofthenight，fortheywereoftenhighabovetheleveloftheroadway，andnoonecouldtellwheretheywouldbelikelytobeginorend。Thehouseswere，forthemostpart，builtofunbakedadobebrick，manyofthemoldforsonewacountry，someofveryelegantproportions，withlow，spacious，shapelyrooms，andwallssothickthattheheatofsummerneverdriedthemtotheheart。Attheapproachoftherainyseasonadeathlychillandagraveyardsmellbegantohangaboutthelowerfloors；anddiseasesofthechestarecommonandfatalamonghouse-keepingpeopleofeithersex。
　　Therewasnoactivitybutinandaroundthesaloons，wherepeoplesatalmostalldaylongplayingcards。Thesmallestexcursionwasmadeonhorseback。Youwouldscarcelyeverseethemainstreetwithoutahorseortwotiedtoposts，andmakingafinefigurewiththeirMexicanhousings。ItstruckmeoddlytocomeacrosssomeoftheCORNHILLillustrationstoMr。Blackmore'sEREMA，andseeallthecharactersastrideonEnglishsaddles。Asamatteroffact，anEnglishsaddleisararityeveninSanFrancisco，and，youmaysay，athingunknowninalltherestofCalifornia。InaplacesoexclusivelyMexicanasMonterey，yousawnotonlyMexicansaddlesbuttrueVaqueroriding-menalwaysatthehand-gallopuphillanddowndale，androundthesharpestcorner，urgingtheirhorseswithcriesandgesticulationsandcruelrotatoryspurs，checkingthemdeadwithatouch，orwheelingthemright-about-faceinasquareyard。Thetypeoffaceandcharacterofbearingaresurprisinglyun-American。ThefirstrangedfromsomethinglikethepureSpanish，tosomething，initssadfixity，notunlikethepureIndian，althoughIdonotsupposetherewasonepurebloodofeitherraceinallthecountry。Asforthesecond，itwasamatterofperpetualsurprisetofind，inthatworldofabsolutelymannerlessAmericans，apeoplefullofdeportment，solemnlycourteous，anddoingallthingswithgraceanddecorum。Indresstheyrantocolourandbrightsashes。NoteventhemostAmericanisedcouldalwaysresistthetemptationtostickaredroseintohishat-band。NoteventhemostAmericanisedwoulddescendtoweartheviledresshatofcivilisation。Spanishwasthelanguageofthestreets。Itwasdifficulttogetalongwithoutawordortwoofthatlanguageforanoccasion。Theonlycommunicationsinwhichthepopulationjoinedwerewithaviewtoamusement。A
　　weeklypublicballtookplacewithgreatetiquette，inadditiontothenumerousfandangoesinprivatehouses。Therewasareallyfairamateurbrassband。Nightafternightserenaderswouldbegoingaboutthestreet，sometimesinacompanyandwithseveralinstrumentsandvoicetogether，sometimesseverally，eachguitarbeforeadifferentwindow。Itwasastrangethingtolieawakeinnineteenth-centuryAmerica，andheartheguitaraccompany，andoneoftheseold，heart-breakingSpanishlove-songsmountintothenightair，perhapsinadeepbaritone，perhapsinthathigh-
　　pitched，pathetic，womanishaltowhichissocommonamongMexicanmen，andwhichstrikesontheunaccustomedearassomethingnotentirelyhumanbutaltogethersad。
　　Thetown，then，wasessentiallyandwhollyMexican；andyetalmostallthelandintheneighbourhoodwasheldbyAmericans，anditwasfromthesameclass，numericallysosmall，thattheprincipalofficialswereselected。ThisMexicanandthatMexicanwoulddescribetoyouhisoldfamilyestates，notoneroodofwhichremainedtohim。Youwouldaskhimhowthatcameabout，andelicitsometangledstoryback-foremost，fromwhichyougatheredthattheAmericanshadbeengreedylikedesigningmen，andtheMexicansgreedylikechildren，butnoothercertainfact。Theirmeritsandtheirfaultscontributedaliketotheruinoftheformerlandholders。Itistruetheywereimprovident，andeasilydazzledwiththesightofreadymoney；buttheyweregentlefolkbesides，andthatinawaywhichcuriouslyunfittedthemtocombatYankeecraft。Supposetheyhaveapapertosign，theywouldthinkitareflectionontheotherpartytoexaminethetermswithanygreatminuteness；nay，supposethemtoobservesomedoubtfulclause，itistentoonetheywouldrefusefromdelicacytoobjecttoit。I
　　knowIamspeakingwithinthemark，forIhaveseensuchacaseoccur，andtheMexican，inspiteoftheadviceofhislawyer，hassignedtheimperfectpaperlikealamb。Tohavespokeninthematter，hesaid，abovealltohavelettheotherpartyguessthathehadseenalawyer，wouldhave"beenlikedoubtinghisword。"
　　Thescruplesoundsoddlytooneofourselves，whohavebeenbroughtuptounderstandallbusinessasacompetitioninfraud，andhonestyitselftobeavirtuewhichregardsthecarryingoutbutnotthecreationofagreements。Thissingleunworldlytraitwillaccountformuchofthatrevolutionofwhichwearespeaking。TheMexicanshavethenameofbeinggreatswindlers，butcertainlytheaccusationcutsbothways。Inacontestofthissort，theentirebootywouldscarcelyhavepassedintothehandsofthemorescupulousrace。
　　PhysicallytheAmericanshavetriumphed；butitisnotentirelyseenhowfartheyhavethemselvesbeenmorallyconquered。Thisis，ofcourse，butapartofapartofanextraordinaryproblemnowinthecourseofbeingsolvedinthevariousStatesoftheAmericanUnion。Iamremindedofananecdote。Someyearsago，atagreatsaleofwine，alltheoddlotswerepurchasedbyagrocerinasmallwayintheoldtownofEdinburgh。Theagenthadthecuriositytovisithimsometimeafterandinquirewhatpossibleusehecouldhaveforsuchmaterial。Hewasshown，bywayofanswer，ahugevatwherealltheliquors，fromhumbleGladstonetoimperialTokay，werefermentingtogether。"Andwhat，"heasked，"doyouproposetocallthis？""I'mnoverysure，"repliedthegrocer，"butIthinkit'sgoingtoturnoutport。"IntheolderEasternStates，Ithinkwemaysaythatthishotch-potchofracesingoingtoturnoutEnglish，orthereabout。Buttheproblemisindefinitelyvariedinotherzones。Theelementsaredifferentlymingledinthesouth，inwhatwemaycalltheTerritorialbeltandinthegroupofStatesonthePacificcoast。Aboveall，intheselast，wemaylooktoseesomemonstroushybrid-Whethergoodorevil，whoshallforecast？butcertainlyoriginalandalltheirown。
　　InmylittlerestaurantatMonterey，wehavesatdowntotabledayafterday，aFrenchman，twoPortuguese，anItalian，aMexican，andaScotchman:wehadforcommonvisitorsanAmericanfromIllinois，anearlypurebloodIndianwoman，andanaturalisedChinese；andfromtimetotimeaSwitzerandaGermancamedownfromcountryranchesforthenight。NowonderthatthePacificcoastisaforeignlandtovisitorsfromtheEasternStates，foreachracecontributessomethingofitsown。EventhedespisedChinesehavetaughttheyouthofCalifornia，noneindeedoftheirvirtues，butthedebasinguseofopium。AndchiefamongtheseinfluencesisthatoftheMexicans。
　　TheMexicansalthoughintheStateareoutofit。Theystillpreserveasortofinternationalindependence，andkeeptheiraffairssnugtothemselves。OnlyfourorfiveyearsagoVasquez，thebandit，histroopsbeingdispersedandthehunttoohotforhiminotherpartsofCalifornia，returnedtohisnativeMonterey，andwasseenpubliclyinherstreetsandsaloons，fearingnoman。TheyearthatIwasthere，thereoccurredtworeputedmurders。AstheMontereyansareexceptionallyvilespeakersofeachotherandofeveryonebehindhisback，itisnotpossibleformetojudgehowmuchtruththeremayhavebeeninthesereports；butintheonecaseeveryonebelieved，andintheothersomesuspected，thattherehadbeenfoulplay；andnobodydreamedforaninstantoftakingtheauthoritiesintotheircounsel。Nowthisis，ofcourse，characteristicenoughoftheMexicans；butitisanoteworthyfeaturethatalltheAmericansinMontereyacquiescedwithoutawordinthisinaction。EvenwhenIspoketothemuponthesubject，theyseemednottounderstandmysurprise；theyhadforgottenthetraditionsoftheirownraceandupbringing，andbecome，inaword，whollyMexicanised。
　　Again，theMexicans，havingnoreadymoneytospeakof，relyalmostentirelyintheirbusinesstransactionsuponeachother'sworthlesspaper。PedrothepennilesspaysyouwithanIOUfromtheequallypennilessMiguel。Itisasortoflocalcurrencybycourtesy。
　　Creditinthesepartshaspassedintoasuperstition。Ihaveseenastrong，violentmanstrugglingformonthstorecoveradebt，andgettingnothingbutanexchangeofwastepaper。Theverystorekeepersareaversetoaskingforcashpayments，andaremoresurprisedthanpleasedwhentheyareoffered。Theyfeartheremustbesomethingunderit，andthatyoumeantowithdrawyourcustomfromthem。Ihaveseentheenterprisingchemistandstationerbeggingmewithfervourtoletmyaccountrunon，althoughIhadmypurseopeninmyhand；andpartlyfromthecommonnessofthecase，partlyfromsomeremainsofthatgenerousoldMexicantraditionwhichmadeallmenwelcometotheirtables，apersonmaybenotoriouslybothunwillingandunabletopay，andstillfindcreditforthenecessariesoflifeinthestoresofMonterey。Nowthisvillainoushabitoflivingupon"tick"hasgrownintoCaliforniannature。IdonotmeanthattheAmericanandEuropeanstorekeepersofMontereyareaslaxasMexicans；ImeanthatAmericanfarmersinmanypartsoftheStateexpectunlimitedcredit，andprofitbyitinthemeanwhile，withoutathoughtforconsequences。Jewstorekeepershavealreadylearnedtheadvantagetobegainedfromthis；theyleadonthefarmerintoirretrievableindebtedness，andkeephimeverafterastheirbond-slavehopelesslygrindinginthemill。Sothewhirligigoftimebringsinitsrevenges，andexceptthattheJewknowsbetterthantoforeclose，youmayseeAmericansboundinthesamechainswithwhichtheythemselveshadformerlyboundtheMexican。Itseemsasifcertainsortsoffollies，likecertainsortsofgrain，werenaturaltothesoilratherthantotheracethatholdsandtillsitforthemoment。
　　Inthemeantime，however，theAmericansruleinMontereyCounty。
　　Thenewcountyseat，SalinasCity，inthebald，corn-bearingplainundertheGabelanoPeak，isatownofapurelyAmericancharacter。
　　Thelandisheld，forthemostpart，inthoseenormoustractswhichareanotherlegacyofMexicandays，andformthepresentchiefdangeranddisgraceofCalifornia；andtheholdersaremostlyofAmericanorBritishbirth。WehavehereinEnglandnoideaofthetroublesandinconvenienceswhichflowfromtheexistenceoftheselargelandholders-land-thieves，land-sharks，orland-grabbers，theyaremorecommonlyandplainlycalled。ThusthetownlandsofMontereyareallinthehandsofasingleman。Howtheycamethereisanobscure，vexatiousquestion，and，rightlyorwrongly，themanishatedwithagreathatred。Hislifehasbeenrepeatedlyindanger。Notverylongago，Iwastold，thestagewasstoppedandexaminedthreeeveningsinsuccessionbydisguisedhorsementhirstingforhisblood。AcertainhouseontheSalinasroad，theysay，healwayspassesinhisbuggyatfullspeed，forthesquattersenthimwarninglongago。ButayearsincehewaspubliclypointedoutfordeathbynolessamanthanMr。DennisKearney。
　　KearneyisamantoowellknowninCalifornia，butawordofexplanationisrequiredforEnglishreaders。OriginallyanIrishdray-man，herose，byhiscommandofbadlanguage，toalmostdictatorialauthorityintheState；throneditthereforsixmonthsorso，hismouthfullofoaths，gallowses，andconflagrations；wasfirstsnuffedoutlastwinterbyMr。Coleman，backedbyhisSanFranciscoVigilantesandthreegatlingguns；completedhisownruinbythrowinginhislotwiththegrotesqueGreen-backerparty；andhadatlasttoberescuedbyhisoldenemies，thepolice，outofthehandsofhisrebelliousfollowers。ItwaswhilehewasatthetopofhisfortunethatKearneyvisitedMontereywithhisbattle-
　　cryagainstChineselabour，therailroadmonopolists，andtheland-
　　thieves；andhisonearticulatecounseltotheMontereyanswasto"hangDavidJacks。"HadthetownbeenAmerican，inmyprivateopinion，thiswouldhavebeendoneyearsago。LandisasubjectonwhichthereisnojestingintheWest，andIhaveseenmyfriendthelawyerdriveoutofMontereytoadjustacompetitionoftitleswiththefaceofacaptaingoingintobattleandhisSmith-and-
　　Wessonconvenienttohishand。
　　Ontherancheofanotheroftheselandholdersyoumayfindouroldfriend，thetrucksystem，infulloperation。Menlivethere，yearinyearout，tocuttimberforanominalwage，whichisallconsumedinsupplies。Thelongertheyremaininthisdesirableservicethedeepertheywillfallindebt-aburlesqueinjusticeinanewcountry，wherelabourshouldbeprecious，andoneofthosetypicalinstanceswhichexplainstheprevailingdiscontentandthesuccessofthedemagogueKearney。
　　InacomparisonbetweenwhatwasandwhatisinCalifornia，thepraisersoftimespastwillfixupontheIndiansofCarmel。ThevalleydrainedbytheriversonamedisatrueCalifornianvalley，bare，dottedwithchaparal，overlookedbyquaint，unfinishedhills。
　　TheCarmelrunsbymanypleasantfarms，aclearandshallowriver，lovedbywadingkine；andatlast，asitisfallingtowardsaquicksandandthegreatPacific，passesaruinedmissiononahill。
　　Fromthemissionchurchtheeyeembracesagreatfieldofocean，andtheearisfilledwithacontinuoussoundofdistantbreakersontheshore。ButthedayoftheJesuithasgoneby，thedayoftheYankeehassucceeded，andthereisnoonelefttocarefortheconvertedsavage。Thechurchisrooflessandruinous，sea-breezesandsea-fogs，andthealternationoftherainandsunshine，dailywideningthebreachesandcastingthecrocketsfromthewall。Asanantiquityinthisnewland，aquaintspecimenofmissionaryarchitecture，andamemorialofgooddeeds，ithadatripleclaimtopreservationfromallthinkingpeople；butneglectandabusehavebeenitsportion。ThereisnosignofAmericaninterference，savewhereaheadboardhasbeentornfromagravetobeamarkforpistolbullets。SoitiswiththeIndiansforwhomitwaserected。
　　Theirlands，Iwastold，arebeingyearlyencroacheduponbytheneighbouringAmericanproprietor，andwiththatexceptionnomantroubleshisheadfortheIndiansofCarmel。Onlyonedayintheyear，thedaybeforeourGuyFawkes，thePADREdrivesoverthehillfromMonterey；thelittlesacristy，whichistheonlycoveredportionofthechurch，isfilledwithseatsanddecoratedfortheservice；theIndianstrooptogether，theirbrightdressescontrastingwiththeirdarkandmelancholyfaces；andthere，amongacrowdofsomewhatunsympatheticholiday-makers，youmayhearGodservedwithperhapsmoretouchingcircumstancesthaninanyothertempleunderheaven。AnIndian，stone-blindandabouteightyyearsofage，conductsthesinging；otherIndianscomposethechoir；yettheyhavetheGregorianmusicattheirfingerends，andpronouncetheLatinsocorrectlythatIcouldfollowthemeaningastheysang。Thepronunciationwasoddandnasal，thesinginghurriedandstaccato。"Insaeculasaeculoho-horum，"theywent，withavigorousaspiratetoeveryadditionalsyllable。IhaveneverseenfacesmorevividlylitupwithjoythanthefacesoftheseIndiansingers。ItwastothemnotonlytheworshipofGod，noranactbywhichtheyrecalledandcommemoratedbetterdays，butwasbesidesanexerciseofculture，wherealltheyknewofartandletterswasunitedandexpressed。Anditmadeaman'sheartsorryforthegoodfathersofyorewhohadtaughtthemtodigandtoreap，toreadandtosing，whohadgiventhemEuropeanmass-bookswhichtheystillpreserveandstudyintheircottages，andwhohadnowpassedawayfromallauthorityandinfluenceinthatland-tobesucceededbygreedyland-thievesandsacrilegiouspistol-shots。SouglyathingmayourAnglo-SaxonProtestantismappearbesidethedoingsoftheSocietyofJesus。
　　Butrevolutioninthisworldsucceedstorevolution。AllthatI
　　sayinthispaperisinapaulo-pasttense。TheMontereyoflastyearexistsnolonger。Ahugehotelhassprungupinthedesertbytherailway。Threesetsofdinerssitdownsuccessivelytotable。
　　Invaluabletoilettesfigurealongthebeachandbetweentheliveoaks；andMontereyisadvertisedinthenewspapers，andpostedinthewaiting-roomsatrailwaystations，asaresortforwealthandfashion。Alasforthelittletown!itisnotstrongenoughtoresisttheinfluenceoftheflauntingcaravanserai，andthepoor，quaint，pennilessnativegentlemenofMontereymustperish，likealowerrace，beforethemillionairevulgariansoftheBigBonanza。
　　[1880]
　　CHAPTERIII-FONTAINEBLEAU-VILLAGECOMMUNITIESOFPAINTERS
　　I
　　THEcharmofFontainebleauisathingapart。Itisaplacethatpeopleloveevenmorethantheyadmire。Thevigorousforestair，thesilence，themajesticavenuesofhighway，thewildernessoftumbledboulders，thegreatageanddignityofcertaingroves-
　　thesearebutingredients，theyarenotthesecretofthephiltre。
　　Theplaceissanative；theair，thelight，theperfumes，andtheshapesofthingsconcordinhappyharmony。Theartistmaybeidleandnotfearthe"blues。"Hemaydallywithhislife。Mirth，lyricmirth，andavivaciousclassicalcontentmentareoftheveryessenceofthebetterkindofart；andthese，inthatmostsmilingforest，hehasthechancetolearnortoremember。EvenontheplainofBiere，wheretheAngelusofMilletstilltollsupontheearoffancy，alargerair，ahigherheaven，somethingancientandhealthyinthefaceofnature，purifythemindalikefromdulnessandhysteria。Thereisnoplacewheretheyoungaremoregladlyconsciousoftheiryouth，ortheoldbettercontentedwiththeirage。
　　Thefactofitsgreatandspecialbeautyfurtherrecommendsthiscountrytotheartist。Thefieldwaschosenbymeninwhosebloodtherestillracedsomeofthegleefulorsolemnexultationofgreatart-MilletwholoveddignitylikeMichelangelo，Rousseauwhosemodernbrushwasdippedintheglamouroftheancients。Itwaschosenbeforethedayofthatstrangeturninthehistoryofart，ofwhichwenowperceivetheculminationinimpressionistictalesandpictures-thatvoluntaryaversionoftheeyefromallspeciouslystrongandbeautifuleffects-thatdisinterestedloveofdulnesswhichhassetsomanyPeterBellstopainttheriver-
　　sideprimrose。ItwasthenchosenforitsproximitytoParis。Andforthesamecause，andbytheforceoftradition，thepainterofto-daycontinuestoinhabitandtopaintit。ThereisinFrancesceneryincomparableforromanceandharmony。Provence，andthevalleyoftheRhonefromViennetoTarascon，areonesuccessionofmasterpieceswaitingforthebrush。Thebeautyisnotmerelybeauty；ittells，besides，ataletotheimagination，andsurpriseswhileitcharms。Hereyoushallseecastellatedtownsthatwouldbefitthesceneryofdreamland；streetsthatglowwithcolourlikecathedralwindows；hillsofthemostexquisiteproportions；flowersofeverypreciouscolour，growingthicklikegrass。Allthese，bythegraceofrailwaytravel，arebroughttotheverydoorofthemodernpainter；yethedoesnotseekthem；heremainsfaithfultoFontainebleau，totheeternalbridgeofGretz，tothewatering-potcascadeinCernayvalley。EvenFontainebleauwaschosenforhim；
　　eveninFontainebleauheshrinksfromwhatissharplycharactered。
　　Butonething，atleast，iscertain，whateverhemaychoosetopaintandinwhatevermanner，itisgoodfortheartisttodwellamonggracefulshapes。Fontainebleau，ifitbebutquietscenery，isclassicallygraceful；andthoughthestudentmaylookfordifferentqualities，thisquality，silentlypresent，willeducatehishandandeye。
　　But，beforeallitsotheradvantages-charm，loveliness，orproximitytoParis-comesthegreatfactthatitisalreadycolonised。Theinstitutionofapainters'colonyisaworkoftimeandtact。Thepopulationmustbeconquered。Theinnkeeperhastobetaught，andhesoonlearns，thelessonofunlimitedcredit；hemustbetaughttowelcomeasafavouredguestayounggentlemaninaverygreasycoat，andwithlittlebaggagebeyondaboxofcoloursandacanvas；andhemustlearntopreservehisfaithincustomerswhowilleatheartilyanddrinkofthebest，borrowmoneytobuytobacco，andperhapsnotpayastiverforayear。Acolourmerchanthasnexttobeattracted。Acertainvoguemustbegiventotheplace，lestthepainter，mostgregariousofanimals，shouldfindhimselfalone。Andnosoonerarethesefirstdifficultiesovercome，thanfreshperilsspringupupontheotherside；andthebourgeoisandthetouristareknockingatthegate。Thisisthecrucialmomentforthecolony。Iftheseintrudersgainafooting，theynotonlybanishfreedomandamenity；prettysoon，bymeansoftheirlongpurses，theywillhaveundonetheeducationoftheinnkeeper；priceswillriseandcreditshorten；andthepoorpaintermustfarefartheronandfindanotherhamlet。"Nothere，O
　　Apollo!"willbecomehissong。ThusTrouvilleand，theotherday，St。Raphaelwerelosttothearts。CuriousandnotalwaysedifyingaretheshiftsthattheFrenchstudentusestodefendhislair；
　　likethecuttlefish，hemustsometimesblackenthewatersofhischosenpool；butatsuchatimeandforsopracticalapurposeMrs。