Heshowedmeitspedigree，oritshistory，ifyouplease；
　　itwasadocumentwhichtracedthisplate'smovementsallthewaydownfromitsbirth——showedwhoboughtit，fromwhom，andwhathepaidforit——fromthefirstbuyerdowntome，wherebyIsawthatithadgonesteadilyupfromthirty-fivecentstosevenhundreddollars。HesaidthatthewholeCeramicworldwouldbeinformedthatitwasnowinmypossessionandwouldmakeanoteofit，withthepricepaid。[Figure8]
　　TherewereMastersinthosedays，but，alas——itisnotsonow。
　　Ofcoursethemainpreciousnessofthispieceliesinitscolor；
　　itisthatoldsensuous，pervading，ramifying，interpolating，transborealbluewhichisthedespairofmodernart。
　　ThelittlesketchwhichIhavemadeofthisgemcannotanddoesnotdoitjustice，sinceIhavebeenobligedtoleaveoutthecolor。ButI'vegottheexpression，though。
　　However，Imustnotbefritteringawaythereader'stimewiththesedetails。Ididnotintendtogointoanydetailatall，atfirst，butitisthefailingofthetrueceramiker，orthetruedevoteeinanydepartmentofbrick-a-brackery，thatoncehegetshistongueorhispenstartedonhisdarlingtheme，hecannotwellstopuntilhedropsfromexhaustion。Hehasnomoresenseoftheflightoftimethanhasanyotherloverwhentalkingofhissweetheart。Thevery"marks"onthebottomofapieceofrarecrockeryareabletothrowmeintoagibberingecstasy；andIcouldforsakeadrowningrelativetohelpdisputeaboutwhetherthestoppleofadepartedBuonRetiroscent-bottlewasgenuineorspurious。
　　Manypeoplesaythatforamaleperson，bric-a-brachuntingisaboutasrobustabusinessasmakingdoll-clothes，ordecoratingJapanesepotswithdecalcomaniebutterflieswouldbe，andthesepeopleflingmudattheelegantEnglishman，Byng，whowroteabookcalledTHEBRIC-A-BRACHUNTER，andmakefunofhimforchasingaroundafterwhattheychoosetocall"hisdespicabletrifles"；andfor"gushing"overthesetrifles；andforexhibitinghis"deepinfantiledelight"
　　inwhattheycallhis"tuppennycollectionofbeggarlytrivialities"；andforbeginninghisbookwithapictureofhimselfseated，ina"sappy，self-complacentattitude，inthemidstofhispoorlittleridiculousbric-a-bracjunkshop。"
　　Itiseasytosaythesethings；itiseasytorevileus，easytodespiseus；therefore，letthesepeoplerailon；
　　theycannotfeelasByngandIfeel——itistheirloss，notours。FormypartIamcontenttobeabrick-a-brackerandaceramiker——more，Iamproudtobesonamed。
　　IamproudtoknowthatIlosemyreasonasimmediatelyinthepresenceofararejugwithanillustriousmarkonthebottomofit，asifIhadjustemptiedthatjug。
　　Verywell；Ipackedandstoredapartofmycollection，andtherestofitIplacedinthecareoftheGrandDucalMuseuminMannheim，bypermission。MyOldBlueChinaCatremainsthereyet。Ipresentedittothatexcellentinstitution。
　　Ihadbutonemisfortunewithmythings。AneggwhichI
　　hadkeptbackfrombreakfastthatmorning，wasbrokeninpacking。Itwasagreatpity。IhadshownittothebestconnoisseursinHeidelberg，andtheyallsaiditwasanantique。Wespentadayortwoinfarewellvisits，andthenleftforBaden-Baden。Wehadapleasanttriptoit，fortheRhinevalleyisalwayslovely。
　　Theonlytroublewasthatthetripwastooshort。
　　IfIrememberrightlyitonlyoccupiedacoupleofhours，thereforeIjudgethatthedistancewasverylittle，ifany，overfiftymiles。WequittedthetrainatOos，andwalkedtheentireremainingdistancetoBaden-Baden，withtheexceptionofaliftoflessthananhourwhichwegotonapassingwagon，theweatherbeingexhaustinglywarm。
　　Wecameintotownonfoot。
　　Oneofthefirstpersonsweencountered，aswewalkedupthestreet，wastheRev。Mr——，anoldfriendfromAmerica——aluckyencounter，indeed，forhisisamostgentle，refined，andsensitivenature，andhiscompanyandcompanionshipareagenuinerefreshment。
　　WeknewhehadbeeninEuropesometime，butwerenotatallexpectingtorunacrosshim。Bothpartiesburstforthintolovingenthusiasms，andRev。Mr——said:
　　"Ihavegotabrimfulreservoiroftalktopouroutonyou，andanemptyonereadyandthirstingtoreceivewhatyouhavegot；wewillsituptillmidnightandhaveagoodsatisfyinginterchange，forIleavehereearlyinthemorning。"Weagreedtothat，ofcourse。
　　Ihadbeenvaguelyconscious，forawhile，ofapersonwhowaswalkinginthestreetabreastofus；Ihadglancedfurtivelyathimonceortwice，andnoticedthathewasafine，large，vigorousyoungfellow，withanopen，independentcountenance，faintlyshadedwithapaleandevenalmostimperceptiblecropofearlydown，andthathewasclothedfromheadtoheelincoolandenviablesnow-whitelinen。IthoughtIhadalsonoticedthathisheadhadasortoflisteningtilttoit。
　　NowaboutthistimetheRev。Mr——said:
　　"Thesidewalkishardlywideenoughforthree，soIwillwalkbehind；butkeepthetalkgoing，keepthetalkgoing，there'snotimetolose，andyoumaybesureIwilldomyshare。"Herangedhimselfbehindus，andstraightwaythatstatelysnow-whiteyoungfellowcloseduptothesidewalkalongsidehim，fetchedhimacordialslapontheshoulderwithhisbroadpalm，andsungoutwithaheartycheeriness:
　　"AMERICANSfortwo-and-a-halfandthemoneyup!HEY?"
　　TheReverendwinced，butsaidmildly:
　　"Yes——weareAmericans。"
　　"Lordloveyou，youcanjustbetthat'swhat_I_am，everytime!Putitthere!"
　　HeheldouthisSaharaofhispalm，andtheReverendlaidhisdiminutivehandinit，andgotsocordialashakethatweheardhisgloveburstunderit。
　　"Say，didn'tIputyouupright?"
　　"Oh，yes。"
　　"Sho!IspottedyouforMYkindtheminuteIheardyourclack。Youbeenoverherelong?"
　　"Aboutfourmonths。Haveyoubeenoverlong?"
　　"LONG?Well，Ishouldsayso!GoingontwoYEARS，bygeeminy!Say，areyouhomesick?"
　　"No，Ican'tsaythatIam。Areyou?"
　　"Oh，HELL，yes!"Thiswithimmenseenthusiasm。
　　TheReverendshrunkalittle，inhisclothes，andwewereaware，ratherbyinstinctthanotherwise，thathewasthrowingoutsignalsofdistresstous；butwedidnotinterfereortrytosuccorhim，forwewerequitehappy。
　　TheyoungfellowhookedhisarmintotheReverend's，now，withtheconfidingandgratefulairofawaifwhohasbeenlongingforafriend，andasympatheticear，andachancetolisponcemorethesweetaccentsofthemother-tongue——andthenhelimberedupthemusclesofhismouthandturnedhimselfloose——andwithsucharelish!SomeofhiswordswerenotSunday-schoolwords，soIamobligedtoputblankswheretheyoccur。
　　"Yesindeedy!If_I_ain'tanAmericanthereAIN'T
　　anyAmericans，that'sall。AndwhenIheardyoufellowsgassingawayinthegoodoldAmericanlanguage，I'm——
　　ifitwasn'tallIcoulddotokeepfromhuggingyou!Mytongue'sallwarpedwithtryingtocurlitaroundthese——forsakenwind-gallednine-jointedGermanwordshere；
　　nowITELLyouit'sawfulgoodtolayitoveraChristianwordoncemoreandkindoflettheoldtastesoakit。
　　I'mfromwesternNewYork。MynameisCholleyAdams。
　　I'mastudent，youknow。Beenheregoingontwoyears。
　　I'mlearningtobeahorse-doctor!ILIKEthatpartofit，youknow，but——thesepeople，theywon'tlearnafellowinhisownlanguage，theymakehimlearninGerman；sobeforeIcouldtacklethehorse-doctoringIhadtotacklethismiserablelanguage。
　　"Firstoff，Ithoughtitwouldcertainlygivemethebotts，butIdon'tmindnow。I'vegotitwherethehair'sshort，Ithink；anddontchuknow，theymademelearnLatin，too。Nowbetweenyouandme，Iwouldn'tgivea——foralltheLatinthatwaseverjabbered；
　　andthefirstthing_I_calculatetodowhenIgetthrough，istojustsitdownandforgetit。'Twon'ttakemelong，andIdon'tmindthetime，anyway。AndItellyouwhat!
　　thedifferencebetweenschool-teachingoveryonderandschool-teachingoverhere——sho!WEdon'tknowanythingaboutit!Hereyou'regottopegandpegandpegandtherejustain'tanylet-up——andwhatyoulearnhere，you'vegottoKNOW，dontchuknow——orelseyou'llhaveoneofthese——spavined，spectacles，ring-boned，knock-kneedoldprofessorsinyourhair。I'vebeenherelongENOUGH，andI'mgettingblessedtiredofit，mindITELLyou。
　　TheoldmanwrotemethathewascomingoverinJune，andsaidhe'dtakemehomeinAugust，whetherIwasdonewithmyeducationornot，butdurnhim，hedidn'tcome；
　　neversaidwhy；justsentmeahamperofSunday-schoolbooks，andtoldmetobegood，andholdonawhile。
　　Idon'ttaketoSunday-schoolbooks，dontchuknow——I
　　don'thankerafterthemwhenIcangetpie——butI
　　READthem，anyway，becausewhatevertheoldmantellsmetodo，that'sthethingthatI'ma-goingtoDO，ortearsomething，youknow。Ibuckledinandreadallthosebooks，becausehewantedmeto；butthatkindofthingdon'texciteME，IlikesomethingHEARTY。
　　ButI'mawfulhomesick。I'mhomesickfromear-sockettocrupper，andfromcruppertohock-joint；butitain'tanyuse，I'vegottostayhere，tilltheoldmandropstheragandgivetheword——yes，SIR，righthereinthis——countryI'vegottolingertilltheoldmansaysCOME!——andyoubetyourbottomdollar，Johnny，itAIN'T
　　justaseasyasitisforacattohavetwins!"
　　Attheendofthisprofaneandcordialexplosionhefetchedaprodigious"WHOOSH!"torelievehislungsandmakerecognitionoftheheat，andthenhestraightwaydivedintohisnarrativeagainfor"Johnny's"benefit，beginning，"Well，——itain'tanyusetalking，someofthoseoldAmericanwordsDOhaveakindofabullyswingtothem；amancanEXPRESShimselfwith'em——amancangetatwhathewantstoSAY，dontchuknow。"
　　WhenwereachedourhotelanditseemedthathewasabouttolosetheReverend，heshowedsomuchsorrow，andbeggedsohardandsoearnestlythattheReverend'sheartwasnothardenoughtoholdoutagainstthepleadings——
　　sohewentawaywiththeparent-honoringstudent，likearightChristian，andtooksupperwithhiminhislodgings，andsatinthesurf-beatofhisslangandprofanitytillnearmidnight，andthenlefthim——lefthimprettywelltalkedout，butgrateful"cleardowntohisfrogs，"
　　asheexpressedit。TheReverendsaidithadtranspiredduringtheinterviewthat"Cholley"Adams'sfatherwasanextensivedealerinhorsesinwesternNewYork；
　　thisaccountedforCholley'schoiceofaprofession。
　　TheReverendbroughtawayaprettyhighopinionofCholleyasamanlyyoungfellow，withstuffinhimforausefulcitizen；heconsideredhimratheraroughgem，butagem，nevertheless。
　　CHAPTERXXI
　　[InsolentShopkeepersandGabblingAmericans]
　　Baden-Badensitsinthelapofthehills，andthenaturalandartificialbeautiesofthesurroundingsarecombinedeffectivelyandcharmingly。Thelevelstripofgroundwhichstretchesthroughandbeyondthetownislaidoutinhandsomepleasuregrounds，shadedbynobletreesandadornedatintervalswithloftyandsparklingfountain-jets。ThriceadayafinebandmakesmusicinthepublicpromenadebeforetheConversationHouse，andintheafternoonandeveningthatlocalityispopulouswithfashionablydressedpeopleofbothsexes，whomarchbackandforthpastthegreatmusic-standandlookverymuchbored，thoughtheymakeashowoffeelingotherwise。
　　Itseemslikearatheraimlessandstupidexistence。
　　Agoodmanyofthesepeoplearethereforarealpurpose，however；theyarerackedwithrheumatism，andtheyaretheretostewitoutinthehotbaths。
　　Theseinvalidslookedmelancholyenough，limpingaboutontheircanesandcrutches，andapparentlybroodingoverallsortsofcheerlessthings。PeoplesaythatGermany，withherdampstonehouses，isthehomeofrheumatism。
　　Ifthatisso，Providencemusthaveforeseenthatitwouldbeso，andthereforefilledthelandwiththehealingbaths。PerhapsnoothercountryissogenerouslysuppliedwithmedicinalspringsasGermany。Someofthesebathsaregoodforoneailment，someforanother；
　　andagain，peculiarailmentsareconqueredbycombiningtheindividualvirtuesofseveraldifferentbaths。
　　Forinstance，forsomeformsofdisease，thepatientdrinksthenativehotwaterofBaden-Baden，withaspoonfulofsaltfromtheCarlsbadspringsdissolvedinit。
　　Thatisnotadosetobeforgottenrightaway。
　　Theydon'tSELLthishotwater；no，yougointothegreatTrinkhalle，andstandaround，firstononefootandthenontheother，whiletwoorthreeyounggirlssitpotteringatsomesortofladylikesewing-workinyourneighborhoodandcan'tseemtoseeyou——politeasthree-dollarclerksingovernmentoffices。
　　Byandbyoneoftheserisespainfully，and"stretches"——stretchesfistsandbodyheavenwardtillsheraisesherheelsfromthefloor，atthesametimerefreshingherselfwithayawnofsuchcomprehensivenessthatthebulkofherfacedisappearsbehindherupperlipandoneisabletoseehowsheisconstructedinside——thensheslowlycloseshercavern，bringsdownherfistsandherheels，comeslanguidlyforward，contemplatesyoucontemptuously，drawsyouaglassofhotwaterandsetsitdownwhereyoucangetitbyreachingforit。Youtakeitandsay:
　　"Howmuch?"——andshereturnsyou，withelaborateindifference，abeggar'sanswer:
　　"NACHBELIEBE"whatyouplease。
　　Thisthingofusingthecommonbeggar'strickandthecommonbeggar'sshibbolethtoputyouonyourliberalitywhenyouwereexpectingasimplestraightforwardcommercialtransaction，addsalittletoyourprosperingsenseofirritation。
　　Youignoreherreply，andaskagain:
　　"Howmuch?"——
　　andshecalmly，indifferently，repeats:
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　Youaregettingangry，butyouaretryingnottoshowit；
　　youresolvetokeeponaskingyourquestiontillshechangesheranswer，oratleastherannoyinglyindifferentmanner。
　　Therefore，ifyourcasebelikemine，youtwofoolsstandthere，andwithoutperceptibleemotionofanykind，oranyemphasisonanysyllable，youlookblandlyintoeachother'seyes，andholdthefollowingidioticconversation:
　　"Howmuch?"
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　"Howmuch?"
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　"Howmuch?"
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　"Howmuch?"
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　"Howmuch?"
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　"Howmuch?"
　　"NACHBELIEBE。"
　　Idonotknowwhatanotherpersonwouldhavedone，butatthispointIgaveup；thatcast-ironindifference，thattranquilcontemptuousness，conqueredme，andIstruckmycolors。NowIknewshewasusedtoreceivingaboutapennyfrommanlypeoplewhocarenothingabouttheopinionsofscullery-maids，andabouttuppencefrommoralcowards；
　　butIlaidasilvertwenty-fivecentpiecewithinherreachandtriedtoshrivelherupwiththissarcasticspeech:
　　"Ifitisn'tenough，willyoustoopsufficientlyfromyourofficialdignitytosayso?"
　　Shedidnotshrivel。Withoutdeigningtolookatmeatall，shelanguidlyliftedthecoinandbitit!——toseeifitwasgood。Thensheturnedherbackandplacidlywaddledtoherformerroostagain，tossingthemoneyintoanopentillasshewentalong。Shewasvictortothelast，yousee。
　　Ihaveenlargeduponthewaysofthisgirlbecausetheyaretypical；hermannersarethemannersofagoodlynumberoftheBaden-Badenshopkeepers。Theshopkeeperthereswindlesyouifhecan，andinsultsyouwhetherhesucceedsinswindlingyouornot。Thekeepersofbathsalsotakegreatandpatientpainstoinsultyou。
　　ThefrowsywomanwhosatatthedeskinthelobbyofthegreatFriederichsbadandsoldbathtickets，notonlyinsultedmetwiceeveryday，withrigidfidelitytohergreattrust，butshetooktroubleenoughtocheatmeoutofashilling，oneday，tohavefairlyentitledhertoten。Baden-Baden'ssplendidgamblersaregone，onlyhermicroscopicknavesremain。
　　AnEnglishgentlemanwhohadbeenlivingthereseveralyears，said:
　　"Ifyoucoulddisguiseyournationality，youwouldnotfindanyinsolencehere。TheseshopkeepersdetesttheEnglishanddespisetheAmericans；theyarerudetoboth，moreespeciallytoladiesofyournationalityandmine。
　　Ifthesegoshoppingwithoutagentlemanoraman-servant，theyaretolerablysuretobesubjectedtopettyinsolences——
　　insolencesofmannerandtone，ratherthanword，thoughwordsthatarehardtobeararenotalwayswanting。
　　IknowofaninstancewhereashopkeepertossedacoinbacktoanAmericanladywiththeremark，snappishlyuttered，'Wedon'ttakeFrenchmoneyhere。'AndIknowofacasewhereanEnglishladysaidtooneoftheseshopkeepers，'Don'tyouthinkyouasktoomuchforthisarticle?'
　　andherepliedwiththequestion，'Doyouthinkyouareobligedtobuyit?'However，thesepeoplearenotimpolitetoRussiansorGermans。Andastorank，theyworshipthat，fortheyhavelongbeenusedtogeneralsandnobles。
　　Ifyouwishtoseewhatabyssesservilitycandescend，presentyourselfbeforeaBaden-BadenshopkeeperinthecharacterofaRussianprince。"
　　Itisaninanetown，filledwithsham，andpettyfraud，andsnobbery，butthebathsaregood。Ispokewithmanypeople，andtheywereallagreedinthat。Ihadthetwingesofrheumatismunceasinglyduringthreeyears，butthelastonedepartedafterafortnight'sbathingthere，andIhaveneverhadonesince。IfullybelieveIleftmyrheumatisminBaden-Baden。Baden-Badeniswelcometoit。
　　Itwaslittle，butitwasallIhadtogive。Iwouldhavepreferredtoleavesomethingthatwascatching，butitwasnotinmypower。
　　Thereareseveralhotspringsthere，andduringtwothousandyearstheyhavepouredforthanever-diminishingabundanceofthehealingwater。Thiswaterisconductedinpipetothenumerousbath-houses，andisreducedtoanendurabletemperaturebytheadditionofcoldwater。
　　ThenewFriederichsbadisaverylargeandbeautifulbuilding，andinitonemayhaveanysortofbaththathaseverbeeninvented，andwithalltheadditionsofherbsanddrugsthathisailmentmayneedorthatthephysicianoftheestablishmentmayconsiderausefulthingtoputintothewater。Yougothere，enterthegreatdoor，getabowgraduatedtoyourstyleandclothesfromthegorgeousportier，andabathticketandaninsultfromthefrowsywomanforaquarter；shestrikesabellandaserving-manconductsyoudownalonghallandshutsyouintoacommodiousroomwhichhasawashstand，amirror，abootjack，andasofainit，andthereyouundressatyourleisure。
　　Theroomisdividedbyagreatcurtain；youdrawthiscurtainaside，andfindalargewhitemarblebathtub，withitsrimsunktothelevelofthefloor，andwiththreewhitemarblestepsleadingdowntoit。
　　Thistubisfullofwaterwhichisasclearascrystal，andistemperedto28degreesRe'aumurabout95degreesFahrenheit。Sunkintothefloor，bythetub，isacoveredcopperboxwhichcontainssomewarmtowelsandasheet。
　　Youlookfullyaswhiteasanangelwhenyouarestretchedoutinthatlimpidbath。Youremaininittenminutes，thefirsttime，andafterwardincreasethedurationfromdaytoday，tillyoureachtwenty-fiveorthirtyminutes。
　　Thereyoustop。Theappointmentsoftheplacearesoluxurious，thebenefitsomarked，thepricesomoderate，andtheinsultssosure，thatyouverysoonfindyourselfadoringtheFriederichsbadandinfestingit。
　　Wehadaplain，simple，unpretending，goodhotel，inBaden-Baden——theHo^teldeFrance——andalongsidemyroomIhadagiggling，cackling，chatteringfamilywhoalwayswenttobedjusttwohoursaftermeandalwaysgotuptwohoursaheadofme。ButthisiscommoninGermanhotels；
　　thepeoplegenerallygotobedlongafterelevenandgetuplongbeforeeight。Thepartitionsconveysoundlikeadrum-head，andeverybodyknowsit；butnomatter，aGermanfamilywhoareallkindnessandconsiderationinthedaytimemakeapparentlynoefforttomoderatetheirnoisesforyourbenefitatnight。Theywillsing，laugh，andtalkloudly，andbangfurniturearoundinamostpitilessway。Ifyouknockonyourwallappealingly，theywillquietdownanddiscussthemattersoftlyamongthemselvesforamoment——then，likethemice，theyfalltopersecutingyouagain，andasvigorouslyasbefore。
　　Theykeepcruellylateandearlyhours，forsuchnoisyfolk。
　　Ofcourse，whenonebeginstofindfaultwithforeignpeople'sways，heisverylikelytogetaremindertolooknearerhome，beforehegetsfarwithit。Iopenmynote-booktoseeifIcanfindsomemoreinformationofavaluablenatureaboutBaden-Baden，andthefirstthingIfalluponisthis:
　　"BADEN-BADENnodate。LotofvociferousAmericansatbreakfastthismorning。TalkingATeverybody，whilepretendingtotalkamongthemselves。Ontheirfirsttravels，manifestly。Showingoff。Theusualsigns——airy，easy-goingreferencestogranddistancesandforeignplaces。'WellGOOD-by，oldfellow——
　　ifIdon'trunacrossyouinItaly，youhuntmeupinLondonbeforeyousail。'"
　　ThenextitemwhichIfindinmynote-bookisthisone:
　　"Thefactthatabandof6，000Indiansarenowmurderingourfrontiersmenattheirimpudentleisure，andthatweareonlyabletosend1，200soldiersagainstthem，isutilizedheretodiscourageemigrationtoAmerica。
　　ThecommonpeoplethinktheIndiansareinNewJersey。"
　　Thisisanewandpeculiarargumentagainstkeepingourarmydowntoaridiculousfigureinthematterofnumbers。
　　Itisratherastrikingone，too。Ihavenotdistortedthetruthinsayingthatthefactsintheaboveitem，aboutthearmyandtheIndians，aremadeuseoftodiscourageemigrationtoAmerica。Thatthecommonpeopleshouldberatherfoggyintheirgeography，andfoggyastothelocationoftheIndians，isamatterforamusement，maybe，butnotofsurprise。
　　ThereisaninterestingoldcemeteryinBaden-Baden，andwespentseveralpleasanthoursinwanderingthroughitandspellingouttheinscriptionsontheagedtombstones。
　　Apparentlyafteramanhaslaidthereacenturyortwo，andhashadagoodmanypeopleburiedontopofhim，itisconsideredthathistombstoneisnotneededbyhimanylonger。Ijudgesofromthefactthathundredsofoldgravestoneshavebeenremovedfromthegravesandplacedagainsttheinnerwallsofthecemetery。
　　Whatartiststheyhadintheoldtimes!Theychiseledangelsandcherubsanddevilsandskeletonsonthetombstonesinthemostlavishandgenerousway——astosupply——butcuriouslygrotesqueandoutlandishastoform。Itisnotalwayseasytotellwhichofthefiguresbelongamongtheblestandwhichofthemamongtheoppositeparty。
　　Buttherewasaninscription，inFrench，ononeofthoseoldstones，whichwasquaintandpretty，andwasplainlynottheworkofanyotherthanapoet。Itwastothiseffect:
　　HereReposesinGod，CarolinedeClery，aReligieuseofSt。Denisaged83years——andblind。ThelightwasrestoredtoherinBadenthe5thofJanuary，1839
　　Wemadeseveralexcursionsonfoottotheneighboringvillages，overwindingandbeautifulroadsandthroughenchantingwoodlandscenery。ThewoodsandroadsweresimilartothoseatHeidelberg，butnotsobewitching。IsupposethatroadsandwoodswhichareuptotheHeidelbergmarkarerareintheworld。
　　OncewewanderedclearawaytoLaFavoritaPalace，whichisseveralmilesfromBaden-Baden。Thegroundsaboutthepalacewerefine；thepalacewasacuriosity。
　　ItwasbuiltbyaMargravinein1725，andremainsassheleftitatherdeath。Wewanderedthroughagreatmanyofitsrooms，andtheyallhadstrikingpeculiaritiesofdecoration。Forinstance，thewallsofoneroomwereprettycompletelycoveredwithsmallpicturesoftheMargravineinallconceivablevarietiesoffancifulcostumes，someofthemmale。
　　Thewallsofanotherroomwerecoveredwithgrotesquelyandelaboratelyfiguredhand-wroughttapestry。
　　Themustyancientbedsremainedinthechambers，andtheirquiltsandcurtainsandcanopiesweredecoratedwithcurioushandwork，andthewallsandceilingsfrescoedwithhistoricalandmythologicalscenesinglaringcolors。
　　Therewasenoughcrazyandrottenrubbishinthebuildingtomakeatruebrick-a-brackergreenwithenvy。
　　Apaintinginthedining-hallvergedupontheindelicate——
　　butthentheMargravinewasherselfatrifleindelicate。
　　Itisineverywayawildlyandpicturesquelydecoratedhouse，andbrimfulofinterestasareflectionofthecharacterandtastesofthatrudebygonetime。
　　Inthegrounds，afewrodsfromthepalace，standstheMargravine'schapel，justassheleftit——acoarsewoodenstructure，whollybarrenofornament。ItissaidthattheMargravinewouldgiveherselfuptodebaucheryandexceedinglyfastlivingforseveralmonthsatatime，andthenretiretothismiserablewoodendenandspendafewmonthsinrepentingandgettingreadyforanothergoodtime。ShewasadevotedCatholic，andwasperhapsquiteamodelsortofaChristianasChristianswentthen，inhighlife。
　　TraditionsaysshespentthelasttwoyearsofherlifeinthestrangedenIhavebeenspeakingof，afterhavingindulgedherselfinonefinal，triumphant，andsatisfyingspree。
　　Sheshutherselfupthere，withoutcompany，andwithoutevenaservant，andsoabjuredandforsooktheworld。
　　Inherlittlebitofakitchenshedidherowncooking；
　　sheworeahairshirtnexttheskin，andcastigatedherselfwithwhips——theseaidstograceareexhibitedthereyet。
　　Sheprayedandtoldherbeads，inanotherlittleroom，beforeawaxenVirginnichedinalittleboxagainstthewall；
　　shebeddedherselflikeaslave。
　　Inanothersmallroomisanunpaintedwoodentable，andbehinditsithalf-life-sizewaxenfiguresoftheHolyFamily，madebytheveryworstartistthateverlived，perhaps，andclothedingaudy，flimsydrapery。
　　[1]ThemargravineusedtobringhermealstothistableandDINEWITHTHEHOLYFAMILY。Whatanideathatwas!
　　Whatagrislyspectacleitmusthavebeen!Imagineit:
　　Thoserigid，shock-headedfigures，withcorpsycomplexionsandfishglasseyes，occupyingonesideofthetableintheconstrainedattitudesanddeadfixednessthatdistinquishallmenthatarebornofwax，andthiswrinkled，smolderingoldfire-eateroccupyingtheotherside，mumblingherprayersandmunchinghersausagesintheghostlystillnessandshadowyindistinctnessofawintertwilight。
　　Itmakesonefeelcrawlyeventothinkofit。
　　1。TheSaviorwasrepresentedasaladofaboutfifteenyearsofage。Thisfigurehadlostoneeye。
　　Inthissordidplace，andclothed，bedded，andfedlikeapauper，thisstrangeprincesslivedandworshipedduringtwoyears，andinitshedied。Twoorthreehundredyearsago，thiswouldhavemadethepoordenholyground；
　　andthechurchwouldhavesetupamiracle-factorythereandmadeplentyofmoneyoutofit。ThedencouldbemovedintosomeportionsofFranceandmadeagoodpropertyevennow。
　　CHAPTERXXII
　　[TheBlackForestandItsTreasures]
　　FromBaden-BadenwemadethecustomarytripintotheBlackForest。Wewereonfootmostofthetime。Onecannotdescribethosenoblewoods，northefeelingwithwhichtheyinspirehim。Afeatureofthefeeling，however，isadeepsenseofcontentment；anotherfeatureofitisabuoyant，boyishgladness；andathirdandveryconspicuousfeatureofitisone'ssenseoftheremotenessofthework-dayworldandhisentireemancipationfromitanditsaffairs。
　　Thosewoodsstretchunbrokenoveravastregion；
　　andeverywheretheyaresuchdensewoods，andsostill，andsopineyandfragrant。Thestemsofthetreesaretrimandstraight，andinmanyplacesallthegroundishiddenformilesunderathickcushionofmossofavividgreencolor，withnotadecayedorraggedspotinitssurface，andnotafallenleafortwigtomaritsimmaculatetidiness。
　　Arichcathedralgloompervadesthepillaredaisles；
　　sothestrayflecksofsunlightthatstrikeatrunkhereandaboughyonderarestronglyaccented，andwhentheystrikethemosstheyfairlyseemtoburn。
　　Buttheweirdesteffect，andthemostenchantingisthatproducedbythediffusedlightofthelowafternoonsun；
　　nosinglerayisabletopierceitswayin，then，butthediffusedlighttakescolorfrommossandfoliage，andpervadestheplacelikeafaint，greet-tintedmist，thetheatricalfireoffairyland。Thesuggestionofmysteryandthesupernaturalwhichhauntstheforestatalltimesisintensifiedbythisunearthlyglow。
　　WefoundtheBlackForestfarmhousesandvillagesallthattheBlackForeststorieshavepicturedthem。
　　ThefirstgenuinespecimenwhichwecameuponwasthemansionofarichfarmerandmemberoftheCommonCounciloftheparishordistrict。Hewasanimportantpersonageinthelandandsowashiswifealso，ofcourse。Hisdaughterwasthe"catch"oftheregion，andshemaybealreadyenteringintoimmortalityastheheroineofoneofAuerbach'snovels，forallIknow。
　　Weshallsee，forifheputsherinIshallrecognizeherbyherBlackForestclothes，andherburnedcomplexion，herplumpfigure，herfathands，herdullexpression，hergentlespirit，hergenerousfeet，herbonnetlesshead，andtheplaitedtailsofhemp-coloredhairhangingdownherback。
　　Thehousewasbigenoughforahotel；itwasahundredfeetlongandfiftywide，andtenfeethigh，fromgroundtoeaves；butfromtheeavestothecombofthemightyroofwasasmuchasfortyfeet，ormaybeevenmore。Thisroofwasofancientmud-coloredstrawthatchafootthick，andwascoveredallover，exceptinafewtriflingspots，withathrivingandluxuriousgrowthofgreenvegetation，mainlymoss。Themosslessspotswereplaceswhererepairshadbeenmadebytheinsertionofbrightnewmassesofyellowstraw。Theeavesprojectedfardown，likesheltering，hospitablewings。Acrossthegablethatfrontedtheroad，andabouttenfeetabovetheground，rananarrowporch，withawoodenrailing；arowofsmallwindowsfilledwithverysmallpaneslookedupontheporch。Aboveweretwoorthreeotherlittlewindows，oneclearupunderthesharpapexoftheroof。
　　Beforetheground-floordoorwasahugepileofmanure。
　　Thedoorofthesecond-storyroomonthesideofthehousewasopen，andoccupiedbytherearelevationofacow。
　　Wasthisprobablythedrawing-room?Allofthefronthalfofthehousefromthegroundupseemedtobeoccupiedbythepeople，thecows，andthechickens，andalltherearhalfbydraught-animalsandhay。
　　Butthechieffeature，allaroundthishouse，wasthebigheapsofmanure。
　　WebecameveryfamiliarwiththefertilizerintheForest。
　　Wefellunconsciouslyintothehabitofjudgingofaman'sstationinlifebythisoutwardandeloquentsign。
　　Sometimeswesaid，"Hereisapoordevil，thisismanifest。"
　　Whenwesawastatelyaccumulation，wesaid，"Hereisabanker。"Whenweencounteredacountry-seatsurroundedbyanAlpinepompofmanure，wesaid，"Doubtlessadukeliveshere。"
　　TheimportanceofthisfeaturehasnotbeenproperlymagnifiedintheBlackForeststories。ManureisevidentlytheBlack-Forester'smaintreasure——hiscoin，hisjewel，hispride，hisOldMaster，hisceramics，hisbric-a-brac，hisdarling，histitletopublicconsideration，envy，veneration，andhisfirstsolicitudewhenhegetsreadytomakehiswill。ThetrueBlackForestnovel，ifitiseverwritten，willbeskeletonedsomewhatinthisway:
　　SKELETONFORABLACKFORESTNOVEL