Butwhenthemoon,havingpassedthelineofpinnacles,washiddenbehindthestupendouswhiteswellofMontBlanc,themasterpieceoftheeveningwasflungonthecanvas。
Arichgreenishradiancesprangintotheskyfrombehindthemountain,andinthissameairyshredsandribbonsofvaporfloatedabout,andbeingflushedwiththatstrangetint,wentwavingtoandfrolikepalegreenflames。Afterawhile,radiatingbars——vastbroadeningfan-shapedshadows——grewupandstretchedawaytothezenithfrombehindthemountain。
Itwasaspectacletotakeone'sbreath,forthewonderofit,andthesublimity。
Indeed,thosemightybarsofalternatelightandshadowstreamingupfrombehindthatdarkandprodigiousformandoccupyingthehalfofthedullandopaqueheavens,wasthemostimposingandimpressivemarvelIhadeverlookedupon。Thereisnosimileforit,fornothingislikeit。Ifachildhadaskedmewhatitwas,Ishouldhavesaid,"Humbleyourself,inthispresence,itisthegloryflowingfromthehiddenheadoftheCreator。"
Onefallsshorterofthetruththanthat,sometimes,intryingtoexplainmysteriestothelittlepeople。
Icouldhavefoundoutthecauseofthisawe-compellingmiraclebyinquiring,foritisnotinfrequentatMontBlanc,——butIdidnotwishtoknow。Wehavenotthereverentfeelingfortherainbowthatasavagehas,becauseweknowhowitismade。Wehavelostasmuchaswegainedbypryingintothematter。
Wetookawalkdownstreet,ablockortwo,andaplacewherefourstreetsmetandtheprincipalshopswereclustered,foundthegroupsofmenintheroadwaythickerthanever——forthiswastheExchangeofChamonix。
Thesemenwereinthecostumesofguidesandporters,andweretheretobehired。
Theofficeofthatgreatpersonage,theGuide-in-ChiefoftheChamonixGuildofGuides,wasnearby。Thisguildisaclosecorporation,andisgovernedbystrictlaws。
Therearemanyexcursionroutes,somedangerousandsomenot,somethatcanbemadesafelywithoutaguide,andsomethatcannot。Thebureaudeterminesthesethings。
Whereitdecidesthataguideisnecessary,youareforbiddentogowithoutone。Neitherareyouallowedtobeavictimofextortion:thelawstateswhatyouaretopay。
Theguidesserveinrotation;youcannotselectthemanwhoistotakeyourlifeintohishands,youmusttaketheworstinthelot,ifitishisturn。Aguide'sfeerangesallthewayupfromahalf-dollarforsometriflingexcursionofafewrodstotwentydollars,accordingtothedistancetraversedandthenatureoftheground。
Aguide'sfeefortakingapersontothesummitofMontBlancandback,istwentydollars——andheearnsit。
Thetimeemployedisusuallythreedays,andthereisenoughearlyrisinginittomakeamanfarmore"healthyandwealthyandwise"thananyonemanhasanyrighttobe。
Theporter'sfeeforthesametripistendollars。
Severalfools——no,Imeanseveraltourists——usuallygotogether,anddivideuptheexpense,andthusmakeitlight;
forifonlyonef——tourist,Imean——went,hewouldhavetohaveseveralguidesandporters,andthatwouldmakethemattercostly。
WewentintotheChief'soffice。Thereweremapsofmountainsonthewalls;alsooneortwolithographsofcelebratedguides,andaportraitofthescientistDeSaussure。
Inglasscasesweresomelabeledfragmentsofbootsandbatons,andothersuggestiverelicsandremembrancesofcasualtiesonMountBlanc。Inabookwasarecordofalltheascentswhichhaveeverbeenmade,beginningwithNos。
1and2——beingthoseofJacquesBalmatandDeSaussure,in1787,andendingwithNo。685,whichwasn'tcoldyet。
InfactNo。685wasstandingbytheofficialtablewaitingtoreceivethepreciousofficialdiplomawhichshouldprovetohisGermanhouseholdandtohisdescendantsthathehadoncebeenindiscreetenoughtoclimbtothetopofMontBlanc。
Helookedveryhappywhenhegothisdocument;infact,hespokeupandsaidheWAShappy。
Itriedtobuyadiplomaforaninvalidfriendathomewhohadnevertraveled,andwhosedesireallhislifehasbeentoascendMontBlanc,buttheGuide-in-Chiefratherinsolentlyrefusedtosellmeone。Iwasverymuchoffended。
IsaidIdidnotproposetobediscriminatedagainstontheaccountofmynationality;thathehadjustsoldadiplomatothisGermangentleman,andmymoneywasagoodashis;Iwouldseetoitthathecouldn'tkeephisshopforGermansanddenyhisproducetoAmericans;
Iwouldhavehislicensetakenawayfromhimatthedroppingofahandkerchief;ifFrancerefusedtobreakhim,Iwouldmakeaninternationalmatterofitandbringonawar;
thesoilshouldbedrenchedwithblood;andnotonlythat,butIwouldsetupanoppositionshowandselldiplomasathalfprice。
FortwocentsIwouldhavedonethesethings,too;
butnobodyofferedmetwocents。ItriedtomovethatGerman'sfeelings,butitcouldnotbedone;hewouldnotgivemehisdiploma,neitherwouldhesellittome。
ITOLDhimmyfriendwassickandcouldnotcomehimself,buthesaidhedidnotcareaVERDAMMTESPFENNIG,hewantedhisdiplomaforhimself——didIsupposehewasgoingtoriskhisneckforthatthingandthengiveittoasickstranger?Indeedhewouldn't,sohewouldn't。
Iresolved,then,thatIwoulddoallIcouldtoinjureMontBlanc。
Intherecord-bookwasalistofallthefatalaccidentswhichhappenedonthemountain。Itbeganwiththeonein1820whentheRussianDr。Hamel'sthreeguideswerelostinacreviceoftheglacier,anditrecordedthedeliveryoftheremainsinthevalleybytheslow-movingglacierforty-oneyearslater。Thelatestcatastropheborethedate1877。
Westeppedoutandrovedaboutthevillageawhile。
InfrontofthelittlechurchwasamonumenttothememoryoftheboldguideJacquesBalmat,thefirstmanwhoeverstooduponthesummitofMontBlanc。Hemadethatwildtripsolitaryandalone。Heaccomplishedtheascentanumberoftimesafterward。Astretchofnearlyhalfacenturylaybetweenhisfirstascentandhislastone。
Attheripeoldageofseventy-twohewasclimbingaroundacornerofaloftyprecipiceofthePicduMidi——nobodywithhim——whenheslippedandfell。
Sohediedintheharness。
Hehadgrownveryavariciousinhisoldage,andusedtogooffstealthilytohuntfornon-existentandimpossiblegoldamongthoseperilouspeaksandprecipices。
Hewasonaquestofthatkindwhenhelosthislife。
Therewasastatuetohim,andanothertoDeSaussure,inthehallofourhotel,andametalplateonthedoorofaroomupstairsboreaninscriptiontotheeffectthatthatroomhadbeenoccupiedbyAlbertSmith。
BalmatandDeSaussurediscoveredMontBlanc——sotospeak——butitwasSmithwhomadeitapayingproperty。
HisarticlesinBLACKWOODandhislecturesonMontBlancinLondonadvertiseditandmadepeopleasanxioustoseeitasifitowedthemmoney。
Aswestrolledalongtheroadwelookedupandsawaredsignal-lightglowinginthedarknessofthemountainside。
Itseemedbutatriflingwayup——perhapsahundredyards,aclimboftenminutes。Itwasaluckypieceofsagacityinusthatweconcludedtostopamanwhomwemetandgetalightforourpipesfromhiminsteadofcontinuingtheclimbtothatlanterntogetalight,ashadbeenourpurpose。
ThemansaidthatthatlanternwasontheGrandsMulets,somesixty-fivehundredfeetabovethevalley!IknowbyourRiffelbergexperience,thatitwouldhavetakenusagoodpartofaweektogoupthere。Iwouldsoonernotsmokeatall,thantakeallthattroubleforalight。
Eveninthedaytimetheforeshadowingeffectofthismountain'scloseproximitycreatescuriousdeceptions。
Forinstance,oneseeswiththenakedeyeacabinuptherebesidetheglacier,andalittleaboveandbeyondheseesthespotwherethatredlightwaslocated;
hethinkshecouldthrowastonefromtheoneplacetotheother。Buthecouldn't,forthedifferencebetweenthetwoaltitudesismorethanthreethousandfeet。
Itlooksimpossible,frombelow,thatthiscanbetrue,butitistrue,nevertheless。
Whilestrollingaround,wekepttherunofthemoonallthetime,andwestillkeptaneyeonherafterwegotbacktothehotelportico。Ihadatheorythatthegravitationofrefraction,beingsubsidiarytoatmosphericcompensation,therefrangibilityoftheearth'ssurfacewouldemphasizethiseffectinregionswheregreatmountainrangesoccur,andpossiblysoeven-handedimpacttheodicandidyllicforcestogether,theoneupontheother,astopreventthemoonfromrisinghigherthan12,200feetabovesea-level。Thisdaringtheoryhadbeenreceivedwithfranticscornbysomeofmyfellow-scientists,andwithaneagersilencebyothers。AmongtheformerImaymentionProf。H——y;andamongthelatterProf。T——l。Suchisprofessionaljealousy;ascientistwillnevershowanykindnessforatheorywhichhedidnotstarthimself。
Thereisnofeelingofbrotherhoodamongthesepeople。
Indeed,theyalwaysresentitwhenIcallthembrother。
Toshowhowfartheirungenerositycancarrythem,IwillstatethatIofferedtoletProf。H——ypublishmygreattheoryashisowndiscovery;Ievenbeggedhimtodoit;
Ievenproposedtoprintitmyselfashistheory。
Insteadofthankingme,hesaidthatifItriedtofastenthattheoryonhimhewouldsuemeforslander。
IwasgoingtoofferittoMr。Darwin,whomIunderstoodtobeamanwithoutprejudices,butitoccurredtomethatperhapshewouldnotbeinterestedinitsinceitdidnotconcernheraldry。
ButIamgladnow,thatIwasforcedtofathermyintrepidtheorymyself,for,onthenightofwhichIamwriting,itwastriumphantlyjustifiedandestablished。MontBlancisnearlysixteenthousandfeethigh;hehidthemoonutterly;
nearhimisapeakwhichis12,216feethigh;themoonslidalongbehindthepinnacles,andwhensheapproachedthatoneIwatchedherwithintenseinterest,formyreputationasascientistmuststandorfallbyitsdecision。
IcannotdescribetheemotionswhichsurgedliketidalwavesthroughmybreastwhenIsawthemoonglidebehindthatloftyneedleandpassitbywithoutexposingmorethantwofeetfourinchesofherupperrimaboveit;
Iwassecure,then。Iknewshecouldrisenohigher,andIwasright。Shesailedbehindallthepeaksandneversucceededinhoistingherdiskaboveasingleoneofthem。
Whilethemoonwasbehindoneofthosesharpfingers,itsshadowwasflungathwartthevacantheavens——
along,slanting,clean-cut,darkray——withastreamingandenergeticsuggestionofFORCEaboutit,suchastheascendingjetofwaterfromapowerfulfire-engineaffords。
Itwascurioustoseeagoodstrongshadowofanearthlyobjectcastuponsointangibleafieldastheatmosphere。
Wewenttobed,atlast,andwentquicklytosleep,butI
wokeup,afteraboutthreehours,withthrobbingtemples,andaheadwhichwasphysicallysore,outsideandin。
Iwasdazed,dreamy,wretched,seedy,unrefreshed。
Irecognizedtheoccasionofallthis:itwasthattorrent。
InthemountainvillagesofSwitzerland,andalongtheroads,onehasalwaystheroarofthetorrentinhisears。
Heimaginesitismusic,andhethinkspoeticthingsaboutit;heliesinhiscomfortablebedandislulledtosleepbyit。Butbyandbyhebeginstonoticethathisheadisverysore——hecannotaccountforit;
insolitudeswheretheprofoundestsilencereigns,henoticesasullen,distant,continuousroarinhisears,whichislikewhathewouldexperienceifhehadsea-shellspressedagainstthem——hecannotaccountforit;heisdrowsyandabsent-minded;thereisnotenacitytohismind,hecannotkeepholdofathoughtandfollowitout;
ifhesitsdowntowrite,hisvocabularyisempty,nosuitablewordswillcome,heforgetswhathestartedtodo,andremainsthere,peninhand,headtiltedup,eyesclosed,listeningpainfullytothemuffledroarofadistanttraininhisears;inhissoundestsleepthestraincontinues,hegoesonlistening,alwayslisteningintently,anxiously,andwakesatlast,harassed,irritable,unrefreshed。
Hecannotmanagetoaccountforthesethings。
Dayafterdayhefeelsasifhehadspenthisnightsinasleeping-car。Itactuallytakeshimweekstofindoutthatitisthosepersecutingtorrentsthathavebeenmakingallthemischief。ItistimeforhimtogetoutofSwitzerland,then,forassoonashehasdiscoveredthecause,themiseryismagnifiedseveralfold。Theroarofthetorrentismaddening,then,forhisimaginationisassisting;thephysicalpainitinflictsisexquisite。
Whenhefindsheisapproachingoneofthosestreams,hisdreadissolivelythatheisdisposedtoflythetrackandavoidtheimplacablefoe。
Eightorninemonthsafterthedistressofthetorrentshaddepartedfromme,theroarandthunderofthestreetsofParisbroughtitallbackagain。Imovedtothesixthstoryofthehoteltohuntforpeace。
Aboutmidnightthenoisesdulledaway,andIwassinkingtosleep,whenIheardanewandcurioussound;
Ilistened:evidentlysomejoyouslunaticwassoftlydancinga"doubleshuffle"intheroomovermyhead。
Ihadtowaitforhimtogetthrough,ofcourse。Fivelong,longminuteshesmoothlyshuffledaway——apausefollowed,thensomethingfellwithathumponthefloor。
Isaidtomyself"There——heispullingoffhisboots——
thankheavensheisdone。"Anotherslightpause——hewenttoshufflingagain!Isaidtomyself,"Ishetryingtoseewhathecandowithonlyonebooton?"Presentlycameanotherpauseandanotherthumponthefloor。Isaid"Good,hehaspulledoffhisotherboot——NOWheisdone。"
Buthewasn't。Thenextmomenthewasshufflingagain。
Isaid,"Confoundhim,heisatitinhisslippers!"
Afteralittlecamethatsameoldpause,andrightafteritthatthumpontheflooroncemore。Isaid,"Hanghim,hehadonTWOpairofboots!"Foranhourthatmagicianwentonshufflingandpullingoffbootstillhehadshedasmanyastwenty-fivepair,andIwashoveringonthevergeoflunacy。Igotmygunandstoleupthere。Thefellowwasinthemidstofanacreofsprawlingboots,andhehadabootinhishand,shufflingit——no,ImeanPOLISHINGit。
Themysterywasexplained。Hehadn'tbeendancing。
Hewasthe"Boots"ofthehotel,andwasattendingtobusiness。
CHAPTERXLIV
[IScaleMontBlanc——byTelescope]
Afterbreakfast,thatnextmorninginChamonix,wewentoutintheyardandwatchedthegangsofexcursioningtouristsarrivinganddepartingwiththeirmulesandguidesandporters;theywetookalookthroughthetelescopeatthesnowyhumpofMontBlanc。Itwasbrilliantwithsunshine,andthevastsmoothbulgeseemedhardlyfivehundredyardsaway。WiththenakedeyewecoulddimlymakeoutthehouseatthePierrePointue,whichislocatedbythesideofthegreatglacier,andismorethanthreethousandfeetabovethelevelofthevalley;
butwiththetelescopewecouldseeallitsdetails。
WhileIlooked,awomanrodebythehouseonamule,andI
sawherwithsharpdistinctness;Icouldhavedescribedherdress。Isawhernodtothepeopleofthehouse,andreinuphermule,andputherhanduptoshieldhereyesfromthesun。Iwasnotusedtotelescopes;
infact,Ihadneverlookedthroughagoodonebefore;
itseemedincredibletomethatthiswomancouldbesofaraway。IwassatisfiedthatIcouldseeallthesedetailswithmynakedeye;butwhenItriedit,thatmuleandthosevividpeoplehadwhollyvanished,andthehouseitselfwasbecomesmallandvague。Itriedthetelescopeagain,andagaineverythingwasvivid。
Thestrongblackshadowsofthemuleandthewomanwereflungagainstthesideofthehouse,andIsawthemule'ssilhouettewaveitsears。
Thetelescopulist——orthetelescopulariat——Idonotknowwhichisright——saidapartyweremakingagrandascent,andwouldcomeinsightontheremoteupperheights,presently;sowewaitedtoobservethisperformance。
PresentlyIhadasuperbidea。IwantedtostandwithapartyonthesummitofMontBlanc,merelytobeabletosayIhaddoneit,andIbelievedthetelescopecouldsetmewithinsevenfeetoftheuppermostman。
Thetelescoperassuredmethatitcould。IthenaskedhimhowmuchIowedhimforasfarasIhadgot?Hesaid,onefranc。Iaskedhimhowmuchitwouldcosttomaketheentireascent?Threefrancs。Iatoncedeterminedtomaketheentireascent。ButfirstIinquirediftherewasanydanger?Hesaidno——notbytelescope;
saidhehadtakenagreatmanypartiestothesummit,andneverlostaman。Iaskedwhathewouldchargetoletmyagentgowithme,togetherwithsuchguidesandportersasmightbenecessary。HesaidhewouldletHarrisgofortwofrancs;andthatunlesswewereunusuallytimid,heshouldconsiderguidesandportersunnecessary;
itwasnotcustomarytotakethem,whengoingbytelescope,fortheywereratheranencumbrancethanahelp。
Hesaidthatthepartynowonthemountainwereapproachingthemostdifficultpart,andifwehurriedweshouldovertakethemwithintenminutes,andcouldthenjointhemandhavethebenefitoftheirguidesandporterswithouttheirknowledge,andwithoutexpensetous。
Ithensaidwewouldstartimmediately。IbelieveI
saiditcalmly,thoughIwasconsciousofashudderandofapalingcheek,inviewofthenatureoftheexploitIwassounreflectinglyengagedin。Buttheolddaredevilspiritwasuponme,andIsaidthatasI
hadcommittedmyselfIwouldnotbackdown;IwouldascendMontBlancifitcostmemylife。Itoldthemantoslanthismachineintheproperdirectionandletusbeoff。
Harriswasafraidanddidnotwanttogo,butIheartenedhimupandsaidIwouldholdhishandalltheway;sohegavehisconsent,thoughhetrembledalittleatfirst。
Itookalastpatheticlookuponthepleasantsummersceneaboutme,thenboldlyputmyeyetotheglassandpreparedtomountamongthegrimglaciersandtheeverlastingsnows。
WetookourwaycarefullyandcautiouslyacrossthegreatGlacierdesBossons,overyawningandterrificcrevicesandamongimposingcragsandbuttressesoficewhichwerefringedwithiciclesofgiganticproportions。Thedesertoficethatstretchedfarandwideaboutuswaswildanddesolatebeyonddescription,andtheperilswhichbesetusweresogreatthatattimesIwasmindedtoturnback。
ButIpulledmyplucktogetherandpushedon。
Wepassedtheglaciersafelyandbegantomountthesteepsbeyond,withgreatalacrity。Whenweweresevenminutesoutfromthestarting-point,wereachedanaltitudewherethescenetookanewaspect;
anapparentlylimitlesscontinentofgleamingsnowwastiltedheavenwardbeforeourfaces。Asmyeyefollowedthatawfulacclivityfarawayupintotheremoteskies,itseemedtomethatallIhadeverseenbeforeofsublimityandmagnitudewassmallandinsignificantcomparedtothis。
Werestedamoment,andthenbegantomountwithspeed。
Withinthreeminuteswecaughtsightofthepartyaheadofus,andstoppedtoobservethem。Theyweretoilingupalong,slantingridgeofsnow——twelvepersons,ropedtogethersomefifteenfeetapart,marchinginsinglefile,andstronglymarkedagainsttheclearbluesky。Onewasawoman。
Wecouldseethemlifttheirfeetandputthemdown;
wesawthemswingtheiralpenstocksforwardinunison,likesomanypendulums,andthenbeartheirweightuponthem;wesawtheladywaveherhandkerchief。
Theydraggedthemselvesupwardinawornandwearyway,fortheyhadbeenclimbingsteadilyfromtheGrandMulets,ontheGlacierdesDossons,sincethreeinthemorning,anditwaseleven,now。Wesawthemsinkdowninthesnowandrest,anddrinksomethingfromabottle。
Afterawhiletheymovedon,andastheyapproachedthefinalshortdashofthehome-stretchwecloseduponthemandjoinedthem。
Presentlyweallstoodtogetheronthesummit!Whataviewwasspreadoutbelow!AwayoffunderthenorthwesternhorizonrolledthesilentbillowsoftheFarneseOberland,theirsnowycrestsglintingsoftlyinthesubduedlightsofdistance;
inthenorthrosethegiantformoftheWobblehorn,drapedfrompeaktoshoulderinsablethunder-clouds;
beyondhim,totheright,stretchedthegrandprocessionalsummitsoftheCisalpineCordillera,drownedinasensuoushaze;totheeastloomedthecolossalmassesoftheYodelhorn,theFuddelhorn,andtheDinnerhorn,theircloudlesssummitsflashingwhiteandcoldinthesun;
beyondthemshimmeredthefaintfarlineoftheGhautsofJubbelporeandtheAigullesdesAlleghenies;inthesouthtoweredthesmokingpeakofPopocatapetlandtheunapproachablealtitudesofthepeerlessScrabblehorn;
inthewest-souththestatelyrangeoftheHimalayaslaydreaminginapurplegloom;andthenceallaroundthecurvinghorizontheeyerovedoveratroubledseaofsun-kissedAlps,andnoted,hereandthere,thenobleproportionsandthesoaringdomesoftheBottlehorn,andtheSaddlehorn,andtheShovelhorn,andthePowderhorn,allbathedinthegloryofnoonandmottledwithsoftlyglidingblots,theshadowsflungfromdriftingclouds。
Overcomebythescene,weallraisedatriumphant,tremendousshout,inunison。Astartledmanatmyelbowsaid:
"Confoundyou,whatdoyouyelllikethatfor,righthereinthestreet?"
ThatbroughtmedowntoChamonix,likeaflirt。
Igavethatmansomespiritualadviceanddisposedofhim,andthenpaidthetelescopemanhisfullfee,andsaidthatwewerecharmedwiththetripandwouldremaindown,andnotreascendandrequirehimtofetchusdownbytelescope。
Thispleasedhimverymuch,forofcoursewecouldhavesteppedbacktothesummitandputhimtothetroubleofbringingushomeifwewantedto。
Ijudgedwecouldgetdiplomas,now,anyhow;sowewentafterthem,buttheChiefGuideputusoff,withonepretextoranother,duringallthetimewestayedinChamonix,andweendedbynevergettingthematall。
Somuchforhisprejudiceagainstpeople'snationality。
However,weworriedhimenoughtomakehimrememberusandourascentforsometime。Heevensaid,once,thathewishedtherewasalunaticasyluminChamonix。
Thisshowsthathereallyhadfearsthatweweregoingtodrivehimmad。Itwaswhatweintendedtodo,butlackoftimedefeatedit。
Icannotventuretoadvisethereaderonewayortheother,astoascendingMontBlanc。Isayonlythis:ifheisatalltimid,theenjoymentsofthetripwillhardlymakeupforthehardshipsandsufferingshewillhavetoendure。
But,ifhehasgoodnerve,youth,health,andabold,firmwill,andcouldleavehisfamilycomfortablyprovidedforincasetheworsthappened,hewouldfindtheascentawonderfulexperience,andtheviewfromthetopavisiontodreamabout,andtellabout,andrecallwithexultationallthedaysofhislife。
WhileIdonotadvisesuchapersontoattempttheascent,Idonotadvisehimagainstit。Butifheelectstoattemptit,lethimbewarilycarefuloftwothings:choseacalm,clearday;anddonotpaythetelescopemaninadvance。
Therearedarkstoriesofhisgettingadvancepayersonthesummitandthenleavingthemtheretorot。
AfrightfultragedywasoncewitnessedthroughtheChamonixtelescopes。Thinkofquestionsandanswerslikethese,onaninquest:
CORONER。Yousawdeceasedlosehislife?
WITNESS。Idid。
C。Wherewashe,atthetime?
W。ClosetothesummitofMontBlanc。
C。Wherewereyou?
W。InthemainstreetofChamonix。
C。Whatwasthedistancebetweenyou?
W。ALITTLEOVERFIVEMILES,asthebirdflies。
Thisaccidentoccurredin1866,ayearandamonthafterthedisasterontheMatterhorn。ThreeadventurousEnglishgentlemen,[1]ofgreatexperienceinmountain-climbing,madeuptheirmindstoascendMontBlancwithoutguidesorporters。
Allendeavorstodissuadethemfromtheirprojectfailed。
PowerfultelescopesarenumerousinChamonix。Thesehugebrasstubes,mountedontheirscaffoldingsandpointedskywardfromeverychoicevantage-ground,havetheformidablelookofartillery,andgivethetownthegeneralaspectofgettingreadytorepelachargeofangels。
ThereadermayeasilybelievethatthetelescopeshadplentyofcustomonthatAugustmorningin1866,foreverybodyknewofthedangerousundertakingwhichwasonfoot,andallhadfearsthatmisfortunewouldresult。
Allthemorningthetubesremaineddirectedtowardthemountainheights,eachwithitsanxiousgrouparoundit;
butthewhitedesertswerevacant。
1。SirGeorgeYoungandhisbrothersJamesandAlbert。
Atlast,towardeleveno'clock,thepeoplewhowerelookingthroughthetelescopescriedout"Theretheyare!"——andsureenough,farup,ontheloftiestterracesoftheGrandPlateau,thethreepygmiesappeared,climbingwithremarkablevigorandspirit。Theydisappearedinthe"Corridor,"andwerelosttosightduringanhour。
Thentheyreappeared,andwerepresentlyseenstandingtogetherupontheextremesummitofMontBlanc。So,allwaswell。
TheyremainedafewminutesonthathighestpointoflandinEurope,atargetforallthetelescopes,andwerethenseentobegindescent。Suddenlyallthreevanished。
Aninstantafter,theyappearedagain,TWOTHOUSANDFEET
BELOW!
Evidently,theyhadtrippedandbeenshotdownanalmostperpendicularslopeoficetoapointwhereitjoinedtheborderoftheupperglacier。Naturally,thedistantwitnesssupposedtheywerenowlookinguponthreecorpses;
sotheycouldhardlybelievetheireyeswhentheypresentlysawtwoofthemenrisetotheirfeetandbendoverthethird。
Duringtwohoursandahalftheywatchedthetwobusyingthemselvesovertheextendedformoftheirbrother,whoseemedentirelyinert。Chamonix'saffairsstoodstill;
everybodywasinthestreet,allinterestwascentereduponwhatwasgoingonuponthatloftyandisolatedstagefivemilesaway。Finallythetwo——oneofthemwalkingwithgreatdifficulty——wereseentobegindescent,abandoningthethird,whowasnodoubtlifeless。
Theirmovementswerefollowed,stepbystep,untiltheyreachedthe"Corridor"anddisappearedbehinditsridge。
Beforetheyhadhadtimetotraversethe"Corridor"
andreappear,twilightwascome,andthepowerofthetelescopewasatanend。
Thesurvivorshadamostperilousjourneybeforetheminthegatheringdarkness,fortheymustgetdowntotheGrandsMuletsbeforetheywouldfindasafestopping-place——alongandtediousdescent,andperilousenougheveningooddaylight。Theoldestguidesexpressedtheopinionthattheycouldnotsucceed;
thatallthechanceswerethattheywouldlosetheirlives。
Yetthosebravemendidsucceed。TheyreachedtheGrandsMuletsinsafety。Eventhefearfulshockwhichtheirnerveshadsustainedwasnotsufficienttoovercometheircoolnessandcourage。Itwouldappearfromtheofficialaccountthattheywerethreadingtheirwaydownthroughthosedangersfromtheclosinginoftwilightuntiltwoo'clockinthemorning,orlater,becausetherescuingpartyfromChamonixreachedtheGrandMuletsaboutthreeinthemorningandmovedthencetowardthesceneofthedisasterundertheleadershipofSirGeorgeYoung,"whohadonlyjustarrived。"
Afterhavingbeenonhisfeettwenty-fourhours,intheexhaustingworkofmountain-climbing,SirGeorgebeganthereascentattheheadofthereliefpartyofsixguides,torecoverthecorpseofhisbrother。
Thiswasconsideredanewimprudence,asthenumberwastoofewfortheservicerequired。AnotherreliefpartypresentlyarrivedatthecabinontheGrandsMuletsandquarteredthemselvestheretoawaitevents。
TenhoursafterSirGeorge'sdeparturetowardthesummit,thisnewreliefwerestillscanningthesnowyaltitudesabovethemfromtheirownhighperchamongtheicedesertstenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea,butthewholeforenoonhadpassedwithoutaglimpseofanylivingthingappearingupthere。
Thiswasalarming。Halfadozenoftheirnumbersetout,thenearlyintheafternoon,toseekandsuccorSirGeorgeandhisguides。Thepersonsremainingatthecabinsawthesedisappear,andthenensuedanotherdistressingwait。
Fourhourspassed,withouttidings。Thenatfiveo'clockanotherrelief,consistingofthreeguides,setforwardfromthecabin。Theycarriedfoodandcordialsfortherefreshmentoftheirpredecessors;
theytooklanternswiththem,too;nightwascomingon,andtomakemattersworse,afine,coldrainhadbeguntofall。
Atthesamehourthatthesethreebegantheirdangerousascent,theofficialGuide-in-ChiefoftheMontBlancregionundertookthedangerousdescenttoChamonix,allalone,togetreinforcements。However,acoupleofhourslater,at7P。M。,theanxioussolicitudecametoanend,andhappily。Abuglenotewasheard,andaclusterofblackspeckswasdistinguishableagainstthesnowsoftheupperheights。Thewatcherscountedthesespeckseagerly——fourteen——nobodywasmissing。Anhourandahalflatertheywereallsafeundertheroofofthecabin。
Theyhadbroughtthecorpsewiththem。SirGeorgeYoungtarriedtherebutafewminutes,andthenbeganthelongandtroublesomedescentfromthecabintoChamonix。
Heprobablyreachedthereabouttwoorthreeo'clockinthemorning,afterhavingbeenafootamongtherocksandglaciersduringtwodaysandtwonights。Hisendurancewasequaltohisdaring。
ThecauseoftheunaccountabledelayofSirGeorgeandthereliefpartiesamongtheheightswherethedisasterhadhappenedwasathickfog——or,partlythatandpartlytheslowanddifficultworkofconveyingthedeadbodydowntheperiloussteeps。
Thecorpse,uponbeingviewedattheinquest,showednobruises,anditwassometimebeforethesurgeonsdiscoveredthattheneckwasbroken。Oneofthesurvivingbrothershadsustainedsomeunimportantinjuries,buttheotherhadsufferednohurtatall。Howthesemencouldfalltwothousandfeet,almostperpendicularly,andliveafterward,isamoststrangeandunaccountablething。
AgreatmanywomenhavemadetheascentofMontBlanc。
AnEnglishgirl,MissStratton,conceivedthedaringidea,twoorthreeyearsago,ofattemptingtheascentinthemiddleofwinter。Shetriedit——andshesucceeded。
Moreover,shefrozetwoofherfingersonthewayup,shefellinlovewithherguideonthesummit,andshemarriedhimwhenshegottothebottomagain。
Thereisnothinginromance,inthewayofastriking"situation,"whichcanbeatthislovesceneinmidheavenonanisolatedice-crestwiththethermometeratzeroandanArticgaleblowing。
ThefirstwomanwhoascendedMontBlancwasagirlagedtwenty-two——Mlle。MariaParadis——1809。Nobodywaswithherbuthersweetheart,andhewasnotaguide。
Thesexthentookarestforaboutthirtyyears,whenaMlle。d'Angevillemadetheascent——1838。InChamonixIpickeduparudeoldlithographofthatdaywhichpicturedher"intheact。"
However,Ivalueitlessasaworkofartthanasafashion-plate。Missd'Angevilleputonapairofmen'spantaloonstoclimbit,whichwaswise;butshecrampedtheirutilitybyaddingherpetticoat,whichwasidiotic。
Oneofthemournfulestcalamitieswhichmen'sdispositiontoclimbdangerousmountainshasresultedin,happenedonMontBlancinSeptember1870。M。D'ArvetellsthestorybrieflyinhisHISTOIREDUMONTBLANC。
InthenextchapterIwillcopyitschieffeatures。
CHAPTERXLV
ACatastropheWhichCostElevenLives[PerishedattheVergeofSafety]
Onthe5thofSeptember,1870,acaravanofelevenpersonsdepartedfromChamonixtomaketheascentofMontBlanc。
Threeofthepartyweretourists;Messrs。RandallandBean,Americans,andMr。GeorgeCorkindale,aScotchgentleman;
therewerethreeguidesandfiveporters。ThecabinontheGrandsMuletswasreachedthatday;theascentwasresumedearlythenextmorning,September6th。
Thedaywasfineandclear,andthemovementsofthepartywereobservedthroughthetelescopesofChamonix;attwoo'clockintheafternoontheywereseentoreachthesummit。
Afewminuteslatertheywereseenmakingthefirststepsofthedescent;thenacloudclosedaroundthemandhidthemfromview。
Eighthourspassed,thecloudstillremained,nightcame,noonehadreturnedtotheGrandsMulets。SylvainCouttet,keeperofthecabinthere,suspectedamisfortune,andsentdowntothevalleyforhelp。Adetachmentofguideswentup,butbythetimetheyhadmadethetedioustripandreachedthecabin,aragingstormhadsetin。
Theyhadtowait;nothingcouldbeattemptedinsuchatempest。
ThewildstormlastedMORETHANAWEEK,withoutceasing;
butonthe17th,Couttet,withseveralguides,leftthecabinandsucceededinmakingtheascent。Inthesnowywastesnearthesummittheycameuponfivebodies,lyingupontheirsidesinareposefulattitudewhichsuggestedthatpossiblytheyhadfallenasleepthere,whileexhaustedwithfatigueandhungerandbenumbedwithcold,andneverknewwhendeathstoleuponthem。Couttetmovedafewstepsfurtheranddiscoveredfivemorebodies。
Theeleventhcorpse——thatofaporter——wasnotfound,althoughdiligentsearchwasmadeforit。
InthepocketofMr。Bean,oneoftheAmericans,wasfoundanote-bookinwhichhadbeenpenciledsomesentenceswhichadmitus,infleshandspirit,asitwere,tothepresenceofthesemenduringtheirlasthoursoflife,andtothegrislyhorrorswhichtheirfadingvisionlookeduponandtheirfailingconsciousnesstookcognizanceof:
TUESDAY,SEPT。6。IhavemadetheascentofMontBlanc,withtenpersons——eightguides,andMr。CorkindaleandMr。Randall。Wereachedthesummitathalfpast2。
Immediatelyafterquittingit,wewereenvelopedincloudsofsnow。Wepassedthenightinagrottohollowedinthesnow,whichaffordedusbutpoorshelter,andI
wasillallnight。
SEPT。7——MORNING。Thecoldisexcessive。Thesnowfallsheavilyandwithoutinterruption。Theguidestakenorest。
EVENING。MyDearHessie,wehavebeentwodaysonMontBlanc,inthemidstofaterriblehurricaneofsnow,wehavelostourway,andareinaholescoopedinthesnow,atanaltitudeof15,000feet。Ihavenolongeranyhopeofdescending。
Theyhadwanderedaround,andaround,intheblindingsnow-storm,hopelesslylost,inaspaceonlyahundredyardssquare;andwhencoldandfatiguevanquishedthematlast,theyscoopedtheircaveandlaydowntheretodiebyinches,UNAWARETHATFIVESTEPSMOREWOULDHAVE
BROUGHTTHEMINTOTHETRUTHPATH。Theyweresoneartolifeandsafetyasthat,anddidnotsuspectit。
第20章