H。YouareaGUESTinsuchplaces?
　　G。S。Andawelcomingone。
　　H。Itissurprising。Howdoesitcome?
　　G。S。Mygrandfather'snameisapassporttoallthecourtsinEurope。Ihaveonlytoutterthatnameandeverydoorisopentome。Iflitfromcourttocourtatmyownfreewillandpleasure，andamalwayswelcome。
　　IamasmuchathomeinthepalacesofEuropeasyouareamongyourrelatives。IknoweverytitledpersoninEurope，Ithink。Ihavemypocketsfullofinvitationsallthetime。
　　IamunderpromisetogotoItaly，whereIamtobetheguestofasuccessionofthenoblesthousesintheland。
　　InBerlinmylifeisacontinuedroundofgaietyintheimperialpalace。Itisthesame，whereverIgo。
　　H。Itmustbeverypleasant。ButitmustmakeBostonseemalittleslowwhenyouareathome。
　　G。S。Yes，ofcourseitdoes。ButIdon'tgohomemuch。
　　There'snolifethere——littletofeedaman'shighernature。
　　Boston'sverynarrow，youknow。Shedoesn'tknowit，andyoucouldn'tconvinceherofit——soIsaynothingwhenI'mthere:where'stheuse?Yes，Bostonisverynarrow，butshehassuchagoodopinionofherselfthatshecan'tseeit。
　　AmanwhohastraveledasmuchasIhave，andseenasmuchoftheworld，seesitplainenough，buthecan'tcureit，youknow，sothebestistoleaveitandseekaspherewhichismoreinharmonywithhistastesandculture。
　　Irunacrossthere，oneayear，perhaps，whenIhavenothingimportantonhand，butI'mverysoonbackagain。
　　IspendmytimeinEurope。
　　H。Isee。Youmapoutyourplansand……
　　G。S。No，excuseme。Idon'tmapoutanyplans。Isimplyfollowtheinclinationoftheday。Iamlimitedbynoties，norequirements，Iamnotboundinanyway。Iamtoooldatravelertohampermyselfwithdeliberatepurposes。
　　Iamsimplyatraveler——aninveteratetraveler——amanoftheworld，inaword——Icancallmyselfbynoothername。
　　Idonotsay，"Iamgoinghere，orIamgoingthere"——I
　　saynothingatall，Ionlyact。Forinstance，nextweekyoumayfindmetheguestofagrandeeofSpain，oryoumayfindmeoffforVenice，orflittingtowardDresden。
　　IshallprobablygotoEgyptpresently；friendswillsaytofriends，"HeisattheNilecataracts"——andatthatverymomenttheywillbesurprisedtolearnthatI'mawayoffyonderinIndiasomewhere。Iamaconstantsurprisetopeople。Theyarealwayssaying，"Yes，hewasinJerusalemwhenweheardofhimlast，butgoodnessknowswhereheisnow。"
　　PresentlytheGrandsonrosetoleave——discoveredhehadanappointmentwithsomeEmperor，perhaps。Hedidhisgracesoveragain:grippedmewithonetalon，atarm's-length，pressedhishatagainsthisstomachwiththeother，benthisbodyinthemiddlethreetimes，murmuring:
　　"Pleasure，'msure；greatpleasure，'msure。Wishyoumuchsuccess。"
　　Thenheremovedhisgraciouspresence。Itisagreatandsolemnthingtohaveagrandfather。
　　Ihavenotpurposedtomisrepresentthisboyinanyway，forwhatlittleindignationheexcitedinmesoonpassedandleftnothingbehinditbutcompassion。
　　Onecannotkeepupagrudgeagainstavacuum。
　　Ihavetriedtorepeatthislad'sverywords；
　　ifIhavefailedanywhereIhaveatleastnotfailedtoreproducethemarrowandmeaningofwhathesaid。
　　HeandtheinnocentchatterboxwhomImetontheSwisslakearethemostuniqueandinterestingspecimensofYoungAmericaIcameacrossduringmyforeigntramping。
　　Ihavemadehonestportraitsofthem，notcaricatures。
　　TheGrandsonoftwenty-threereferredtohimselffiveorsixtimesasan"oldtraveler，"andasmanyasthreetimeswithaserenecomplacencywhichwasmaddening
　　asa"manoftheworld。"TherewassomethingverydeliciousabouthisleavingBostontoher"narrowness，"unreprovedanduninstructed。
　　Iformedthecaravaninmarchingorder，presently，andafterridingdownthelinetoseethatitwasproperlyropedtogether，gavethecommandtoproceed。
　　Inalittlewhiletheroadcarriedustoopen，grassyland。
　　Wewereabovethetroublesomeforest，now，andhadanuninterruptedview，straightbeforeus，ofoursummit——
　　thesummitoftheRiffelberg。
　　Wefollowedthemule-road，azigzagcourse，nowtotheright，nowtotheleft，butalwaysup，andalwayscrowdedandincommodedbygoingandcomingfilesofrecklesstouristswhowerenever，inasingleinstance，tiedtogether。
　　Iwasobligedtoexerttheutmostcareandcaution，forinmanyplacestheroadwasnottwoyardswide，andoftenthelowersideofitslopedawayinslantingprecipiceseightandevenninefeetdeep。Ihadtoencouragethemenconstantly，tokeepthemfromgivingwaytotheirunmanlyfears。
　　Wemighthavemadethesummitbeforenight，butforadelaycausedbythelossofanumbrella。Iwasallowingtheumbrellatoremainlost，butthemenmurmured，andwithreason，forinthisexposedregionwestoodinpeculiarneedofprotectionagainstavalanches；
　　soIwentintocampanddetachedastrongpartytogoafterthemissingarticle。
　　Thedifficultiesofthenextmorningweresevere，butourcouragewashigh，forourgoalwasnear。
　　Atnoonweconqueredthelastimpediment——westoodatlastuponthesummit，andwithoutthelossofasinglemanexceptthemulethatatetheglycerin。
　　Ourgreatachievementwasachieved——thepossibilityoftheimpossiblewasdemonstrated，andHarrisandIwalkedproudlyintothegreatdining-roomoftheRiffelbergHotelandstoodouralpenstocksupinthecorner。
　　Yes，Ihadmadethegrandascent；butitwasamistaketodoitineveningdress。Theplughatswerebattered，theswallow-tailswereflutteringrags，mudaddednograce，thegeneraleffectwasunpleasantandevendisreputable。
　　Therewereaboutseventy-fivetouristsatthehotel——
　　mainlyladiesandlittlechildren——andtheygaveusanadmiringwelcomewhichpaidusforallourprivationsandsufferings。Theascenthadbeenmade，andthenamesanddatesnowstandrecordedonastonemonumenttheretoproveittoallfuturetourists。
　　Iboiledathermometerandtookanaltitude，withamostcuriousresult:THESUMMITWASNOTASHIGHASTHEPOINTON
　　THEMOUNTAINSIDEWHEREIHADTAKENTHEFIRSTALTITUDE。
　　SuspectingthatIhadmadeanimportantdiscovery，Ipreparedtoverifyit。TherehappenedtobeastillhighersummitcalledtheGornerGrat，abovethehotel，andnotwithstandingthefactthatitoverlooksaglacierfromadizzyheight，andthattheascentisdifficultanddangerous，Iresolvedtoventureupthereandboilathermometer。SoIsentastrongparty，withsomeborrowedhoes，inchargeoftwochiefsofservice，todigastairwayinthesoilallthewayup，andthisIascended，ropedtotheguides。Thisbreezyheightwasthesummitproper——soIaccomplishedevenmorethanIhadoriginallypurposedtodo。Thisfoolhardyexploitisrecordedonanotherstonemonument。
　　Iboiledmythermometer，andsureenough，thisspot，whichpurportedtobetwothousandfeethigherthanthelocalityofthehotel，turnedouttobeninethousandfeetLOWER。Thusthefactwasclearlydemonstratedthat，ABOVEACERTAINPOINT，THEHIGHERAPOINTSEEMSTOBE，THELOWERITACTUALLYIS。Ourascentitselfwasagreatachievement，butthiscontributiontosciencewasaninconceivablygreatermatter。
　　Cavilersobjectthatwaterboilsatalowerandlowertemperaturethehigherandhigheryougo，andhencetheapparentanomaly。IanswerthatIdonotbasemytheoryuponwhattheboilingwaterdoes，butuponwhataboiledthermometersays。Youcan'tgobehindthethermometer。
　　IhadamagnificentviewofMonteRosa，andapparentlyalltherestoftheAlpineworld，fromthathighplace。
　　Allthecirclinghorizonwaspiledhighwithamightytumultofsnowycrests。OnemighthaveimaginedhesawbeforehimthetentedcampsofabeleagueringhostofBrobdingnagians。
　　Butlonely，conspicuous，andsuperb，rosethatwonderfuluprightwedge，theMatterhorn。Itsprecipitoussideswerepowderedoverwithsnow，andtheupperhalfhiddeninthickcloudswhichnowandthendissolvedtocobwebfilmsandgavebriefglimpsesoftheimposingtowerasthroughaveil。
　　[2]AlittlelatertheMatterhorntooktohimselfthesemblanceofavolcano；hewasstrippednakedtohisapex——
　　aroundthiscircledvastwreathsofwhitecloudwhichstrungslowlyoutandstreamedawayslantwisetowardthesun，atwenty-milestretchofrollingandtumblingvapor，andlookingjustasifitwerepouringoutofacrater。
　　Lateragain，oneofthemountain'ssideswascleanandclear，andanothersidedenselyclothedfrombasetosummitinthicksmokelikecloudwhichfeatheredoffandflewaroundtheshaft'ssharpedgelikethesmokearoundthecornersofaburningbuilding。TheMatterhornisalwaysexperimenting，andalwaysgetsupfineeffects，too。Inthesunset，whenallthelowerworldispalledingloom，itpointstowardheavenoutofthepervadingblacknesslikeafingeroffire。Inthesunrise——well，theysayitisveryfineinthesunrise。
　　2。NOTE——IhadtheveryunusuallucktocatchonelittlemomentaryglimpseoftheMatterhornwhollyunencumberedbyclouds。Ileveledmyphotographicapparatusatitwithoutthelossofaninstant，andshouldhavegotanelegantpictureifmydonkeyhadnotinterfered。
　　Itwasmypurposetodrawthisphotographallbymyselfformybook，butwasobligedtoputthemountainpartofitintothehandsoftheprofessionalartistbecauseIfoundIcouldnotdolandscapewell。
　　Authoritiesagreethatthereisnosuchtremendous"layout"
　　ofsnowyAlpinemagnitude，grandeur，andsublimitytobeseenfromanyotheraccessiblepointasthetouristmayseefromthesummitoftheRiffelberg。Therefore，letthetouristropehimselfupandgothere；forIhaveshownthatwithnerve，caution，andjudgment，thethingcanbedone。
　　Iwishtoaddoneremark，here——inparentheses，sotospeak——suggestedbytheword"snowy，"whichIhavejustused。
　　Wehaveallseenhillsandmountainsandlevelswithsnowonthem，andsowethinkweknowalltheaspectsandeffectsproducedbysnow。ButindeedwedonotuntilwehaveseentheAlps。Possiblymassanddistanceaddsomething——atanyrate，somethingISadded。Amongothernoticeablethings，thereisadazzling，intensewhitenessaboutthedistantAlpinesnow，whenthesunisonit，whichonerecognizesaspeculiar，andnotfamiliartotheeye。Thesnowwhichoneisaccustomedtohasatinttoit——paintersusuallygiveitabluishcast——butthereisnoperceptibletinttothedistantAlpinesnowwhenitistryingtolookitswhitest。Astotheunimaginablesplendorofitwhenthesunisblazingdownonit——well，itsimplyISunimaginable。
　　CHAPTERXXXIX
　　[WeTravelbyGlacier]
　　Aguide-bookisaqueerthing。ThereaderhasjustseenwhatamanwhoundertakesthegreatascentfromZermatttotheRiffelbergHotelmustexperience。YetBaedekermakesthesestrangestatementsconcerningthismatter:
　　1。Distance——3hours。
　　2。Theroadcannotbemistaken。
　　3。Guideunnecessary。
　　4。DistancefromRiffelbergHoteltotheGornerGrat，onehourandahalf。
　　5。Ascentsimpleandeasy。Guideunnecessary。
　　6。ElevationofZermattabovesea-level，5，315feet。
　　7。ElevationofRiffelbergHotelabovesea-level，8，429feet。
　　8。ElevationoftheGornerGratabovesea-level，10，289feet。
　　Ihaveprettyeffectuallythrottledtheseerrorsbysendinghimthefollowingdemonstratedfacts:
　　1。DistancefromZermatttoRiffelbergHotel，7days。
　　2。TheroadCANbemistaken。IfIamthefirstthatdidit，Iwantthecreditofit，too。
　　3。GuidesAREnecessary，fornonebutanativecanreadthosefinger-boards。
　　4。Theestimateoftheelevationoftheseverallocalitiesabovesea-levelisprettycorrect——forBaedeker。
　　Heonlymissesitaboutahundredandeightyorninetythousandfeet。
　　Ifoundmyarnicainvaluable。Mymenweresufferingexcruciatingly，fromthefrictionofsittingdownsomuch。
　　Duringtwoorthreedays，notoneofthemwasabletodomorethanliedownorwalkabout；yetsoeffectivewasthearnica，thatonthefourthallwereabletositup。
　　Iconsiderthat，morethantoanythingelse，Iowethesuccessofourgreatundertakingtoarnicaandparegoric。
　　Mymenarebeingrestoredtohealthandstrength，mymainperplexity，now，washowtogetthemdownthemountainagain。Iwasnotwillingtoexposethebravefellowstotheperils，fatigues，andhardshipsofthatfearfulrouteagainifitcouldbehelped。
　　FirstIthoughtofballoons；but，ofcourse，Ihadtogivethatideaup，forballoonswerenotprocurable。
　　Ithoughtofseveralotherexpedients，butuponconsiderationdiscardedthem，forcause。ButatlastIhitit。Iwasawarethatthemovementofglaciersisanestablishedfact，forIhadreaditinBaedeker；
　　soIresolvedtotakepassageforZermattonthegreatGornerGlacier。
　　Verygood。Thenextthingwas，howtogetdowntheglaciercomfortably——forthemule-roadtoitwaslong，andwinding，andwearisome。Isetmymindatwork，andsoonthoughtoutaplan。OnelooksstraightdownuponthevastfrozenrivercalledtheGornerGlacier，fromtheGornerGrat，asheerprecipicetwelvehundredfeethigh。Wehadonehundredandfifty-fourumbrellas——
　　andwhatisanumbrellabutaparachute?
　　ImentionedthisnobleideatoHarris，withenthusiasm，andwasabouttoordertheExpeditiontoformontheGornerGrat，withtheirumbrellas，andprepareforflightbyplatoons，eachplatoonincommandofaguide，whenHarrisstoppedmeandurgedmenottobetoohasty。
　　HeaskedmeifthismethodofdescendingtheAlpshadeverbeentriedbefore。Isaidno，Ihadnotheardofaninstance。Then，inhisopinion，itwasamatterofconsiderablegravity；inhisopinionitwouldnotbewelltosendthewholecommandoverthecliffatonce；
　　abetterwaywouldbetosenddownasingleindividual，first，andseehowhefared。
　　Isawthewisdominthisideainstantly。Isaidasmuch，andthankedmyagentcordially，andtoldhimtotakehisumbrellaandtrythethingrightaway，andwavehishatwhenhegotdown，ifhestruckinasoftplace，andthenIwouldshiptherestrightalong。
　　Harriswasgreatlytouchedwiththismarkofconfidence，andsaidso，inavoicethathadaperceptibletrembleinit；
　　butatthesametimehesaidhedidnotfeelhimselfworthyofsoconspicuousafavor；thatitmightcausejealousyinthecommand，fortherewereplentywhowouldnothesitatetosayhehadusedunderhandedmeanstogettheappointment，whereashisconsciencewouldbearhimwitnessthathehadnotsoughtitatall，noreven，inhissecretheart，desiredit。
　　Isaidthesewordsdidhimextremecredit，butthathemustnotthrowawaytheimperishabledistinctionofbeingthefirstmantodescendanAlpperparachute，simplytosavethefeelingsofsomeenviousunderlings。No，Isaid，heMUSTaccepttheappointment——itwasnolongeraninvitation，itwasacommand。
　　Hethankedmewitheffusion，andsaidthatputtingthethinginthisformremovedeveryobjection。
　　Heretired，andsoonreturnedwithhisumbrella，hiseyeflamingwithgratitudeandhischeekspallidwithjoy。
　　Justthentheheadguidepassedalong。Harris'sexpressionchangedtooneofinfinitetenderness，andhesaid:
　　"Thatmandidmeacruelinjuryfourdaysago，andI
　　saidinmyheartheshouldlivetoperceiveandconfessthattheonlynoblerevengeamancantakeuponhisenemyistoreturngoodforevil。Iresigninhisfavor。
　　Appointhim。"
　　Ithrewmyarmsaroundthegenerousfellowandsaid:
　　"Harris，youarethenoblestsoulthatlives。Youshallnotregretthissublimeact，neithershalltheworldfailtoknowofit。Youshallhaveopportunityfartranscendingthisone，too，ifIlive——rememberthat。"
　　Icalledtheheadguidetomeandappointedhimonthespot。Butthethingarousednoenthusiasminhim。
　　Hedidnottaketotheideaatall。
　　Hesaid:
　　"TiemyselftoanumbrellaandjumpovertheGornerGrat!Excuseme，thereareagreatmanypleasanterroadstothedevilthanthat。"
　　Uponadiscussionofthesubjectwithhim，itappearedthatheconsideredtheprojectdistinctlyanddecidedlydangerous。
　　Iwasnotconvinced，yetIwasnotwillingtotrytheexperimentinanyriskyway——thatis，inawaythatmightcripplethestrengthandefficiencyoftheExpedition。
　　Iwasaboutatmywits'endwhenitoccurredtometotryitontheLatinist。
　　Hewascalledin。Buthedeclined，onthepleaofinexperience，diffidenceinpublic，lackofcuriosity，andIdidn'tknowwhatall。Anothermandeclinedonaccountofacoldinthehead；thoughtheoughttoavoidexposure。Anothercouldnotjumpwell——neverCOULDjumpwell——didnotbelievehecouldjumpsofarwithoutlongandpatientpractice。Anotherwasafraiditwasgoingtorain，andhisumbrellahadaholeinit。
　　Everybodyhadanexcuse。Theresultwaswhatthereaderhasbythistimeguessed:themostmagnificentideathatwaseverconceivedhadtobeabandoned，fromsheerlackofapersonwithenterpriseenoughtocarryitout。
　　Yes，Iactuallyhadtogivethatthingup——whiledoubtlessIshouldlivetoseesomebodyuseitandtakeallthecreditfromme。
　　Well，Ihadtogooverland——therewasnootherway。
　　ImarchedtheExpeditiondownthesteepandtediousmule-pathandtookupasgoodapositionasIcoulduponthemiddleoftheglacier——becauseBaedekersaidthemiddleparttravelsthefastest。Asameasureofeconomy，however，Iputsomeoftheheavierbaggageontheshorewardparts，togoasslowfreight。
　　Iwaitedandwaited，buttheglacierdidnotmove。
　　Nightwascomingon，thedarknessbegantogather——stillwedidnotbudge。Itoccurredtomethen，thattheremightbeatime-tableinBaedeker；itwouldbewelltofindoutthehoursofstarting。Icalledforthebook——itcouldnotbefound。Bradshawwouldcertainlycontainatime-table；
　　butnoBradshawcouldbefound。
　　Verywell，Imustmakethebestofthesituation。SoI
　　pitchedthetents，picketedtheanimals，milkedthecows，hadsupper，paregorickedthemen，establishedthewatch，andwenttobed——withorderstocallmeassoonaswecameinsightofZermatt。
　　Iawokeabouthalfpasttennextmorning，andlookedaround。
　　Wehadn'tbudgedapeg!AtfirstIcouldnotunderstandit；
　　thenitoccurredtomethattheoldthingmustbeaground。
　　SoIcutdownsometreesandriggedasparonthestarboardandanotherontheportside，andfooledawayupwardofthreehourstryingtosparheroff。Butitwasnouse。
　　Shewashalfamilewideandfifteenortwentymileslong，andtherewasnotellingjustwhereaboutssheWASaground。
　　Themenbegantoshowuneasiness，too，andpresentlytheycameflyingtomewithashyfaces，sayingshehadsprungaleak。
　　Nothingbutmycoolbehavioratthiscriticaltimesavedusfromanotherpanic。Iorderthemtoshowmetheplace。
　　Theyledmetoaspotwhereahugeboulderlayinadeeppoolofclearandbrilliantwater。Itdidlooklikeaprettybadleak，butIkeptthattomyself。Imadeapumpandsetthementoworktopumpouttheglacier。
　　Wemadeasuccessofit。Iperceived，then，thatitwasnotaleakatall。Thisboulderhaddescendedfromaprecipiceandstoppedontheiceinthemiddleoftheglacier，andthesunhadwarmeditup，everyday，andconsequentlyithadmelteditswaydeeperanddeeperintotheice，untilatlastitreposed，aswehadfoundit，inadeeppooloftheclearestandcoldestwater。
　　PresentlyBaedekerwasfoundagain，andIhuntedeagerlyforthetime-table。Therewasnone。Thebooksimplysaidtheglacierwasmovingallthetime。Thiswassatisfactory，soIshutupthebookandchoseagoodpositiontoviewthesceneryaswepassedalong。Istoodtheresometimeenjoyingthetrip，butatlastitoccurredtomethatwedidnotseemtobegaininganyonthescenery。Isaidtomyself，"Thisconfoundedoldthing'sagroundagain，sure，"——andopenedBaedekertoseeifIcouldrunacrossanyremedyfortheseannoyinginterruptions。Isoonfoundasentencewhichthrewadazzlinglightuponthematter。Itsaid，"TheGornerGlaciertravelsatanaveragerateofalittlelessthananinchaday。"Ihaveseldomfeltsooutraged。
　　Ihaveseldomhadmyconfidencesowantonlybetrayed。
　　Imadeasmallcalculation:Oneinchaday，saythirtyfeetayear；estimateddistancetoZermatt，threeandone-eighteenthmiles。Timerequiredtogobyglacier，ALITTLEOVERFIVEHUNDREDYEARS!Isaidtomyself，"IcanWALKitquicker——andbeforeIwillpatronizesuchafraudasthis，Iwilldoit。"
　　WhenIrevealedtoHarristhefactthatthepassengerpartofthisglacier——thecentralpart——thelightning-expresspart，sotospeak——wasnotdueinZermatttillthesummerof2378，andthatthebaggage，comingalongtheslowedge，wouldnotarriveuntilsomegenerationslater，heburstoutwith:
　　"ThatisEuropeanmanagement，allover!Aninchaday——thinkofthat!Fivehundredyearstogoatrifleoverthreemiles!
　　ButIamnotabitsurprised。It'saCatholicglacier。
　　Youcantellbythelookofit。Andthemanagement。"
　　Isaid，no，IbelievednothingbuttheextremeendofitwasinaCatholiccanton。
　　"Well，then，it'sagovernmentglacier，"saidHarris。
　　"It'sallthesame。Overherethegovernmentrunseverything——soeverything'sslow；slow，andill-managed。Butwithus，everything'sdonebyprivateenterprise——andthenthereain'tmuchlollingaround，youcandependonit。
　　IwishTomScottcouldgethishandsonthistorpidoldslabonce——you'dseeittakeadifferentgaitfromthis。"
　　IsaidIwassurehewouldincreasethespeed，iftherewastradeenoughtojustifyit。
　　"He'dMAKEtrade，"saidHarris。"That'sthedifferencebetweengovernmentsandindividuals。Governmentsdon'tcare，individualsdo。TomScottwouldtakeallthetrade；
　　intwoyearsGornerstockwouldgototwohundred，andinsideoftwomoreyouwouldseealltheotherglaciersunderthehammerfortaxes。"Afterareflectivepause，Harrisadded，"Alittlelessthananinchaday；alittlelessthananINCH，mindyou。Well，I'mlosingmyreverenceforglaciers。"
　　Iwasfeelingmuchthesamewaymyself。Ihavetraveledbycanal-boat，ox-wagon，raft，andbytheEphesusandSmyrnarailway；butwhenitcomesdowntogoodsolidhonestslowmotion，Ibetmymoneyontheglacier。
　　Asameansofpassengertransportation，Iconsidertheglacierafailure；butasavehicleofslowfreight，Ithinkshefillsthebill。Inthematterofputtingthefineshadesonthatlineofbusiness，IjudgeshecouldteachtheGermanssomething。
　　IorderedthementobreakcampandprepareforthelandjourneytoZermatt。Atthismomentamostinterestingfindwasmade；adarkobject，beddedintheglacialice，wascutoutwiththeice-axes，anditprovedtobeapieceoftheundressedskinofsomeanimal——ahairtrunk，perhaps；
　　butacloseinspectiondisabledthehair-trunktheory，andfurtherdiscussionandexaminationexplodeditentirely——thatis，intheopinionofallthescientistsexcepttheonewhohadadvancedit。Thisoneclungtohistheorywithaffectionatefidelitycharacteristicoforiginatorsofscientifictheories，andafterwardwonmanyofthefirstscientistsoftheagetohisview，byaveryablepamphletwhichhewrote，entitled，"Evidencesgoingtoshowthatthehairtrunk，inawildstate，belongedtotheearlyglacialperiod，androamedthewastesofchaosinthecompanywiththecave-bear，primevalman，andtheotherOo"liticsoftheOldSilurianfamily。"
　　Eachofourscientistshadatheoryofhisown，andputforwardananimalofhisownasacandidatefortheskin。
　　IsidedwiththegeologistoftheExpeditioninthebeliefthatthispatchofskinhadoncehelpedtocoveraSiberianelephant，insomeoldforgottenage——butwedividedthere，thegeologistbelievingthatthisdiscoveryprovedthatSiberiahadformerlybeenlocatedwhereSwitzerlandisnow，whereasIheldtheopinionthatitmerelyprovedthattheprimevalSwisswasnotthedullsavageheisrepresentedtohavebeen，butwasabeingofhighintellectualdevelopment，wholikedtogotothemenagerie。
　　Wearrivedthatevening，aftermanyhardshipsandadventures，insomefieldsclosetothegreatice-archwherethemadVispboilsandsurgesoutfromunderthefootofthegreatGornerGlacier，andherewecamped，ourperilsoverandourmagnificentundertakingsuccessfullycompleted。
　　WemarchedintoZermattthenextday，andwerereceivedwiththemostlavishhonorsandapplause。Adocument，signedandsealedbytheauthorities，wasgiventomewhichestablishedandendorsedthefactthatIhadmadetheascentoftheRiffelberg。ThisIweararoundmyneck，anditwillbeburiedwithmewhenIamnomore。
　　CHAPTERXL
　　[PiteousRelicsatChamonix]
　　Iamnotsoignorantaboutglacialmovement，now，asI
　　waswhenItookpassageontheGornerGlacier。
　　Ihave"readup"since。Iamawarethatthesevastbodiesoficedonottravelatthesamerateofspeed；
　　whiletheGornerGlaciermakeslessthananinchaday，theUnter-AarGlaciermakesasmuchaseight；andstillotherglaciersaresaidtogotwelve，sixteen，andeventwentyinchesaday。Onewritersaysthattheslowestglaciertravelstwenty-givefeetayear，andthefastestfourhundred。
　　Whatisaglacier?Itiseasytosayitlookslikeafrozenriverwhichoccupiesthebedofawindinggorgeorgullybetweenmountains。Butthatgivesnonotionofitsvastness。Foritissometimessixhundredfeetthick，andwearenotaccustomedtoriverssixhundredfeetdeep；no，ourriversaresixfeet，twentyfeet，andsometimesfiftyfeetdeep；wearenotquiteabletograspsolargeafactasanice-riversixhundredfeetdeep。
　　Theglacier'ssurfaceisnotsmoothandlevel，buthasdeepswalesandswellingelevations，andsometimeshasthelookofatossingseawhoseturbulentbillowswerefrozenhardintheinstantoftheirmostviolentmotion；
　　theglacier'ssurfaceisnotaflawlessmass，butisariverwithcracksorcrevices，somenarrow，somegapingwide。
　　Manyaman，thevictimofasliporamisstep，hasplungeddownonoftheseandmethisdeath。Menhavebeenfishedoutofthemalive；butitwaswhentheydidnotgotoagreatdepth；thecoldofthegreatdepthswouldquicklystupefyaman，whetherhewashurtorunhurt。
　　Thesecracksdonotgostraightdown；onecanseldomseemorethantwentytofortyfeetdownthem；consequentlymenwhohavedisappearedinthemhavebeensoughtfor，inthehopethattheyhadstoppedwithinhelpingdistance，whereastheircase，inmostinstances，hadreallybeenhopelessfromthebeginning。
　　In1864apartyoftouristswasdescendingMontBlanc，andwhilepickingtheirwayoveroneofthemightyglaciersofthatloftyregion，ropedtogether，aswasproper，ayoungporterdisengagedhimselffromthelineandstartedacrossanice-bridgewhichspannedacrevice。
　　Itbrokeunderhimwithacrash，andhedisappeared。
　　Theotherscouldnotseehowdeephehadgone，soitmightbeworthwhiletotryandrescuehim。AbraveyoungguidenamedMichelPayotvolunteered。
　　Tworopesweremadefasttohisleatherbeltandheboretheendofathirdoneinhishandtotietothevictimincasehefoundhim。Hewasloweredintothecrevice，hedescendeddeeperanddeeperbetweentheclearbluewallsofsolidice，heapproachedabendinthecrackanddisappearedunderit。Down，andstilldown，hewent，intothisprofoundgrave；whenhehadreachedadepthofeightyfeethepassedunderanotherbendinthecrack，andthencedescendedeightyfeetlower，asbetweenperpendicularprecipices。Arrivedatthisstageofonehundredandsixtyfeetbelowthesurfaceoftheglacier，hepeeredthroughthetwilightdimnessandperceivedthatthechasmtookanotherturnandstretchedawayatasteepslanttounknowndeeps，foritscoursewaslostindarkness。Whataplacethatwastobein——especiallyifthatleatherbeltshouldbreak!Thecompressionofthebeltthreatenedtosuffocatetheintrepidfellow；
　　hecalledtohisfriendstodrawhimup，butcouldnotmakethemhear。Theystillloweredhim，deeperanddeeper。
　　Thenhejerkedhisthirdcordasvigorouslyashecould；
　　hisfriendsunderstood，anddraggedhimoutofthoseicyjawsofdeath。
　　Thentheyattachedabottletoacordandsentitdowntwohundredfeet，butitfoundnobottom。Itcameupcoveredwithcongelations——evidenceenoughthatevenifthepoorporterreachedthebottomwithunbrokenbones，aswiftdeathfromcoldwassure，anyway。
　　Aglacierisastupendous，ever-progressing，resistlessplow。
　　Itpushesaheadofitsmassesofboulderswhicharepackedtogether，andtheystretchacrossthegorge，rightinfrontofit，likealonggraveoralong，sharproof。Thisiscalledamoraine。Italsoshovesoutamorainealongeachsideofitscourse。
　　Imposingasthemodernglaciersare，theyarenotsohugeasweresomethatonceexisted。Forinstance，Mr。Whympersays:
　　"AtsomeveryremoteperiodtheValleyofAostawasoccupiedbyavastglacier，whichfloweddownitsentirelengthfromMontBlanctotheplainofPiedmont，remainedstationary，ornearlyso，atitsmouthformanycenturies，anddepositedthereenormousmassesofdebris。ThelengthofthisglacierexceededEIGHTYMILES，anditdrainedabasintwenty-fivetothirty-fivemilesacross，boundedbythehighestmountainsintheAlps。Thegreatpeaksroseseveralthousandfeetabovetheglaciers，andthen，asnow，shatteredbysunandfrost，poureddowntheirshowersofrocksandstones，inwitnessofwhichtherearetheimmensepilesofangularfragmentsthatconstitutethemorainesofIvrea。
　　"ThemorainesaroundIvreaareofextraordinarydimensions。
　　ThatwhichwasontheleftbankoftheglacierisaboutTHIRTEENMILESlong，andinsomeplacesrisestoaheightofTWOTHOUSANDONEHUNDREDANDTHIRTYFEET
　　abovethefloorofthevalley!Theterminalmorainesthosewhicharepushedinfrontoftheglaciers
　　coversomethingliketwentysquaremilesofcountry。
　　AtthemouthoftheValleyofAosta，thethicknessoftheglaciermusthavebeenatleastTWOTHOUSANDfeet，anditswidth，atthatpart，FIVEMILESANDAQUARTER。"
　　Itisnoteasytogetatacomprehensionofamassoficelikethat。Ifonecouldcleaveoffthebuttendofsuchaglacier——anoblongblocktwoorthreemileswidebyfiveandaquarterlongandtwothousandfeetthick——
　　hecouldcompletelyhidethecityofNewYorkunderit，andTrinitysteeplewouldonlystickupintoitrelativelyasfarasashingle-nailwouldstickupintothebottomofaSaratogatrunk。
　　"ThebouldersfromMontBlanc，upontheplainbelowIvrea，assureusthattheglacierwhichtransportedthemexistedforaprodigiouslengthoftime。Theirpresentdistancefromthecliffsfromwhichtheywerederivedisabout420，000feet，andifweassumethattheytraveledattherateof400feetperannum，theirjourneymusthaveoccupiedthemnolessthan1，055years!Inallprobabilitytheydidnottravelsofast。"
　　Glaciersaresometimeshurriedoutoftheircharacteristicsnail-pace。Amarvelousspectacleispresentedthen。
　　Mr。WhymperreferstoacasewhichoccurredinIcelandin1721:
　　"ItseemsthatintheneighborhoodofthemountainKotlugja，largebodiesofwaterformedunderneath，orwithintheglacierseitheronaccountoftheinteriorheatoftheearth，orfromothercauses，andatlengthacquiredirresistiblepower，toretheglaciersfromtheirmooringontheland，andsweptthemovereveryobstacleintothesea。
　　Prodigiousmassesoficewerethusborneforadistanceofabouttenmilesoverlandinthespaceofafewhours；
　　andtheirbulkwassoenormousthattheycoveredtheseaforsevenmilesfromtheshore，andremainedagroundinsixhundredfeetofwater!Thedenudationofthelandwasuponagrandscale。Allsuperficialaccumulationsweresweptaway，andthebedrockwasexposed。Itwasdescribed，ingraphiclanguage，howallirregularitiesanddepressionswereobliterated，andasmoothsurfaceofseveralmiles'
　　arealaidbare，andthatthisareahadtheappearanceofhavingbeenPLANEDBYAPLANE。"
　　TheaccounttranslatedfromtheIcelandicsaysthatthemountainlikeruinsofthismajesticglaciersocoveredtheseathatasfarastheeyecouldreachnoopenwaterwasdiscoverable，evenfromthehighestpeaks。Amonsterwallorbarrieroficewasbuiltacrossaconsiderablestretchofland，too，bythisstrangeirruption:
　　"OnecanformsomeideaofthealtitudeofthisbarrieroficewhenitismentionedthatfromHofdabrekkafarm，whichlieshighuponafjeld，onecouldnotseeHjorleifshofdiopposite，whichisafellsixhundredandfortyfeetinheight；butinordertodosohadtoclamberupamountainslopeeastofHofdabrekkatwelvehundredfeethigh。"
　　Thesethingswillhelpthereadertounderstandwhyitisthatamanwhokeepscompanywithglacierscomestofeeltolerablyinsignificantbyandby。TheAlpsandtheglacierstogetherareabletotakeeverybitofconceitoutofamanandreducehisself-importancetozeroifhewillonlyremainwithintheinfluenceoftheirsublimepresencelongenoughtogiveitafairandreasonablechancetodoitswork。
　　TheAlpineglaciersmove——thatisgranted，now，byeverybody。
　　Buttherewasatimewhenpeoplescoffedattheidea；
　　theysaidyoumightaswellexpectleaguesofsolidrocktocrawlalongthegroundasexpectleaguesoficetodoit。
　　Butproofafterproofasfurnished，andthefinallytheworldhadtobelieve。
　　Thewisemennotonlysaidtheglaciermoved，buttheytimeditsmovement。Theycipheredoutaglacier'sgait，andthensaidconfidentlythatitwouldtraveljustsofarinsomanyyears。Thereisrecordofastrikingandcuriousexampleoftheaccuracywhichmaybeattainedinthesereckonings。
　　In1820theascentofMontBlancwasattemptedbyaRussianandtwoEnglishmen，withsevenguides。Theyhadreachedaprodigiousaltitude，andwereapproachingthesummit，whenanavalanchesweptseveralofthepartydownasharpslopeoftwohundredfeetandhurledfiveofthemallguidesintooneofthecrevicesofaglacier。
　　Thelifeofoneofthefivewassavedbyalongbarometerwhichwasstrappedtohisback——itbridgedthecreviceandsuspendedhimuntilhelpcame。Thealpenstockorbatonofanothersaveditsownerinasimilarway。
　　Threemenwerelost——PierreBalmat，PierreCarrier，andAugusteTairraz。Theyhadbeenhurleddownintothefathomlessgreatdeepsofthecrevice。
　　Dr。Forbes，theEnglishgeologist，hadmadefrequentvisitstotheMontBlancregion，andhadgivenmuchattentiontothedisputedquestionofthemovementofglaciers。
　　Duringoneofthesevisitshecompletedhisestimatesoftherateofmovementoftheglacierwhichhadswallowedupthethreeguides，andutteredthepredictionthattheglacierwoulddeliverupitsdeadatthefootofthemountainthirty-fiveyearsfromthetimeoftheaccident，orpossiblyforty。
　　Adull，slowjourney——amovementimperceptibletoanyeye——
　　butitwasproceeding，nevertheless，andwithoutcessation。