Ireadseveralbooks，andherearesomeofthethingsIfoundout。One'sshoesmustbestrongandheavy，andhavepointedhobnailsinthem。Thealpenstockmustbeofthebestwood，forifitshouldbreak，lossoflifemightbetheresult。Oneshouldcarryanax，tocutstepsintheicewith，onthegreatheights。
　　Theremustbealadder，fortherearesteepbitsofrockwhichcanbesurmountedwiththisinstrument——orthisutensil——butcouldnotbesurmountedwithoutit；
　　suchanobstructionhascompelledthetouristtowastehourshuntinganotherroute，whenaladderwouldhavesavedhimalltrouble。Onemusthavefromonehundredandfiftytofivehundredfeetofstrongrope，tobeusedinloweringthepartydownsteepdeclivitieswhicharetoosteepandsmoothtobetraversedinanyotherway。
　　Onemusthaveasteelhook，onanotherrope——averyusefulthing；forwhenoneisascendingandcomestoalowbluffwhichisyettoohighfortheladder，heswingsthisropealoftlikealasso，thehookcatchesatthetopofthebluff，andthenthetouristclimbstherope，handoverhand——beingalwaysparticulartotryandforgetthatifthehookgiveswayhewillneverstopfallingtillhearrivesinsomepartofSwitzerlandwheretheyarenotexpectinghim。Anotherimportantthing——theremustbearopetotiethewholepartytogetherwith，sothatifonefallsfromamountainordownabottomlesschasminaglacier，theothersmaybracebackontheropeandsavehim。Onemusthaveasilkveil，toprotecthisfacefromsnow，sleet，hailandgale，andcoloredgogglestoprotecthiseyesfromthatdangerousenemy，snow-blindness。Finally，theremustbesomeporters，tocarryprovisions，wineandscientificinstruments，andalsoblanketbagsforthepartytosleepin。
　　IclosedmyreadingswithafearfuladventurewhichMr。WhymperoncehadontheMatterhornwhenhewasprowlingaroundalone，fivethousandfeetabovethetownofBreil。
　　Hewasedginghiswaygingerlyaroundthecornerofaprecipicewheretheupperedgeofasharpdeclivityofice-glazedsnowjoinedit。Thisdeclivitysweptdownacoupleofhundredfeet，intoagullywhichcurvedaroundandendedataprecipiceeighthundredfeethigh，overlookingaglacier。Hisfootslipped，andhefell。
　　Hesays:
　　"Myknapsackbroughtmyheaddownfirst，andIpitchedintosomerocksaboutadozenfeetbelow；theycaughtsomething，andtumbledmeofftheedge，headoverheels，intothegully；
　　thebatonwasdashedfrommyhands，andIwhirleddownwardinaseriesofbounds，eachlongerthanthelast；nowoverice，nowintorocks，strikingmyheadfourorfivetimes，eachtimewithincreasedforce。Thelastboundsentmespinningthroughtheairinaleapoffiftyorsixtyfeet，fromonesideofthegullytotheother，andIstrucktherocks，luckily，withthewholeofmyleftside。
　　Theycaughtmyclothesforamoment，andIfellbackontothesnowwithmotionarrested。Myheadfortunatelycametherightsideup，andafewfranticcatchesbroughtmetoahalt，intheneckofthegullyandonthevergeoftheprecipice。Baton，hat，andveilskimmedbyanddisappeared，andthecrashoftherocks——whichIhadstarted——astheyfellontotheglacier，toldhownarrowhadbeentheescapefromutterdestruction。Asitwas，Ifellnearlytwohundredfeetinsevenoreightbounds。
　　Tenfeetmorewouldhavetakenmeinonegiganticleapsofeighthundredfeetontotheglacierbelow。
　　"Thesituationwassufficientlyserious。Therockscouldnotbeletgoforamoment，andthebloodwasspurtingoutofmorethantwentycuts。Themostseriousoneswereinthehead，andIvainlytriedtoclosethemwithonehand，whileholdingonwiththeother。Itwasuseless；
　　thebloodgushedoutinblindingjetsateachpulsation。
　　Atlast，inamomentofinspiration，Ikickedoutabiglumpofsnowandstruckitasplasteronmyhead。
　　Theideawasahappyone，andtheflowofblooddiminished。
　　Then，scramblingup，Igot，notamomenttoosoon，toaplaceofsafety，andfaintedaway。Thesunwassettingwhenconsciousnessreturned，anditwaspitch-darkbeforetheGreatStaircasewasdescended；butbyacombinationofluckandcare，thewholefourthousandsevenhundredfeetofdescenttoBreilwasaccomplishedwithoutaslip，oroncemissingtheway。"
　　Hiswoundskepthimabedsomedays。Thenhegotupandclimbedthatmountainagain。ThatisthewaywithatrueAlp-climber；themorefunhehas，themorehewants。
　　CHAPTERXXXVII
　　[OurImposingColumnStartsUpward]
　　AfterIhadfinishedmyreadings，Iwasnolongermyself；
　　Iwastranced，uplifted，intoxicated，bythealmostincredibleperilsandadventuresIhadbeenfollowingmyauthorsthrough，andthetriumphsIhadbeensharingwiththem。Isatsilentsometime，thenturnedtoHarrisandsaid:
　　"Mymindismadeup。"
　　Somethinginmytonestruckhim:andwhenheglancedatmyeyeandreadwhatwaswrittenthere，hisfacepaledperceptibly。Hehesitatedamoment，thensaid:
　　"Speak。"
　　Ianswered，withperfectcalmness:
　　"IwillascendtheRiffelberg。"
　　IfIhadshotmypoorfriendhecouldnothavefallenfromhischairmoresuddenly。IfIhadbeenhisfatherhecouldnothavepleadedhardertogetmetogiveupmypurpose。
　　ButIturnedadeafeartoallhesaid。Whenheperceivedatlastthatnothingcouldaltermydetermination，heceasedtourge，andforawhilethedeepsilencewasbrokenonlybyhissobs。Isatinmarbleresolution，withmyeyesfixeduponvacancy，forinspiritIwasalreadywrestlingwiththeperilsofthemountains，andmyfriendsatgazingatmeinadoringadmirationthroughhistears。
　　Atlasthethrewhimselfuponmeinalovingembraceandexclaimedinbrokentones:
　　"YourHarriswillneverdesertyou。Wewilldietogether。"
　　Icheeredthenoblefellowwithpraises，andsoonhisfearswereforgottenandhewaseagerfortheadventure。
　　Hewantedtosummontheguidesatonceandleaveattwointhemorning，ashesupposedthecustomwas；
　　butIexplainedthatnobodywaslookingatthathour；
　　andthatthestartinthedarkwasnotusuallymadefromthevillagebutfromthefirstnight'sresting-placeonthemountainside。Isaidwewouldleavethevillageat3or4P。M。onthemorrow；meantimehecouldnotifytheguides，andalsoletthepublicknowoftheattemptwhichweproposedtomake。
　　Iwenttobed，butnottosleep。NomancansleepwhenheisabouttoundertakeoneoftheseAlpineexploits。
　　Itossedfeverishlyallnightlong，andwasgladenoughwhenIheardtheclockstrikehalfpastelevenandknewitwastimetogetupfordinner。Irose，jadedandrusty，andwenttothenoonmeal，whereIfoundmyselfthecenterofinterestandcuriosity；forthenewswasalreadyabroad。
　　Itisnoteasytoeatcalmlywhenyouarealion；butitisverypleasant，nevertheless。
　　Asusual，atZermatt，whenagreatascentisabouttobeundertaken，everybody，nativeandforeign，laidasidehisownprojectsandtookupagoodpositiontoobservethestart。Theexpeditionconsistedof198persons，includingthemules；or205，includingthecows。
　　Asfollows:
　　CHIEFSOFSERVICESUBORDINATES
　　Myself1VeterinarySurgeonMr。Harris1Butler17
　　Guides12Waiters4Surgeons1Footman1Geologist1
　　Barber1Botanist1HeadCook3Chaplains9Assistants15Barkeepers1ConfectioneryArtist1LatinistTRANSPORTATION，ETC。
　　27Porters3CoarseWashersandIroners44Mules1Fineditto44Muleteers7Cows2MilkersTotal，154men，51animals。GrandTotal，205。
　　RATIONS，ETC。APPARATUS
　　16CasesHams25SpringMattresses2BarrelsFlour2
　　Hairditto22BarrelsWhiskeyBeddingforsame1BarrelSugar2Mosquito-nets1KegLemons29Tents2，000CigarsScientificInstruments1BarrelPies97Ice-axes1TonofPemmican5CasesDynamite143PairCrutches7CansNitroglycerin2BarrelsArnica2240-footLadders1BaleofLint2MilesofRope27KegsParegoric154UmbrellasItwasfullfouro'clockintheafternoonbeforemycavalcadewasentirelyready。Atthathouritbegantomove。
　　Inpointofnumbersandspectaculareffect，itwasthemostimposingexpeditionthathadevermarchedfromZermatt。
　　Icommandedthechiefguidetoarrangethemenandanimalsinsinglefile，twelvefeetapart，andlashthemalltogetheronastrongrope。Heobjectedthatthefirsttwomileswasadeadlevel，withplentyofroom，andthattheropewasneverusedexceptinverydangerousplaces。
　　ButIwouldnotlistentothat。MyreadinghadtaughtmethatmanyseriousaccidentshadhappenedintheAlpssimplyfromnothavingthepeopletiedupsoonenough；
　　Iwasnotgoingtoaddonetothelist。Theguidethenobeyedmyorder。
　　Whentheprocessionstoodatease，ropedtogether，andreadytomove，Ineversawafinersight。Itwas3，122
　　feetlong——overhalfamile；everymanandmewasonfoot，andhadonhisgreenveilandhisbluegoggles，andhiswhiteragaroundhishat，andhiscoilofropeoveroneshoulderandundertheother，andhisice-axinhisbelt，andcarriedhisalpenstockinhislefthand，hisumbrellaclosedinhisright，andhiscrutchesslungathisback。
　　Theburdensofthepack-mulesandthehornsofthecowsweredeckedwiththeEdelweissandtheAlpinerose。
　　Iandmyagentweretheonlypersonsmounted。Wewereinthepostofdangerintheextremerear，andtiedsecurelytofiveguidesapiece。Ourarmor-bearerscarriedourice-axes，alpenstocks，andotherimplementsforus。
　　Weweremounteduponverysmalldonkeys，asameasureofsafety；intimeofperilwecouldstraightenourlegsandstandup，andletthedonkeywalkfromunder。
　　Still，Icannotrecommendthissortofanimal——atleastforexcursionsofmerepleasure——becausehisearsinterrupttheview。Iandmyagentpossessedtheregulationmountaineeringcostumes，butconcludedtoleavethembehind。
　　Outofrespectforthegreatnumbersoftouristsofbothsexeswhowouldbeassembledinfrontofthehotelstoseeuspass，andalsooutofrespectforthemanytouristswhomweexpectedtoencounteronourexpedition，wedecidedtomaketheascentineveningdress。
　　Wewateredthecaravanatthecoldstreamwhichrushesdownatroughneartheendofthevillage，andsoonafterwardleftthehauntsofcivilizationbehindus。
　　Abouthalfpastfiveo'clockwearrivedatabridgewhichspanstheVisp，andafterthrowingoveradetachmenttoseeifitwassafe，thecaravancrossedwithoutaccident。
　　Thewaynowled，byagentleascent，carpetedwithfreshgreengrass，tothechurchatWinkelmatten。
　　Withoutstoppingtoexaminethisedifice，IexecutedaflankmovementtotherightandcrossedthebridgeovertheFindelenbach，afterfirsttestingitsstrength。
　　HereIdeployedtotherightagain，andpresentlyenteredaninvitingstretchofmeadowlandwhichwasunoccupiedsavebyacoupleofdesertedhutstowardthefurthestextremity。
　　Thesemeadowsofferedanexcellentcamping-place。Wepitchedourtents，supped，establishedapropergrade，recordedtheeventsoftheday，andthenwenttobed。
　　Weroseattwointhemorninganddressedbycandle-light。Itwasadismalandchillybusiness。Afewstarswereshining，butthegeneralheavenswereovercast，andthegreatshaftoftheMatterhornwasdrapedinacablepallofclouds。
　　Thechiefguideadvisedadelay；hesaidhefeareditwasgoingtorain。Wewaiteduntilnineo'clock，andthengotawayintolerablyclearweather。
　　Ourcourseledupsometerrificsteeps，denselywoodedwithlarchesandcedars，andtraversedbypathswhichtherainshadgutteredandwhichwereobstructedbyloosestones。
　　Toaddtothedangerandinconvenience，wewereconstantlymeetingreturningtouristsonfootandhorseback，andasconstantlybeingcrowdedandbatteredbyascendingtouristswhowereinahurryandwantedtogetby。
　　Ourtroublesthickened。Aboutthemiddleoftheafternoontheseventeenguidescalledahaltandheldaconsultation。
　　Afterconsultinganhourtheysaidtheirfirstsuspicionremainedintact——thatistosay，theybelievedtheywerelost。IaskediftheydidnotKNOWit?No，theysaid，theyCOULDN'Tabsolutelyknowwhethertheywerelostornot，becausenoneofthemhadeverbeeninthatpartofthecountrybefore。Theyhadastronginstinctthattheywerelost，buttheyhadnoproofs——exceptthattheydidnotknowwheretheywere。Theyhadmetnotouristsforsometime，andtheyconsideredthatasuspicioussign。
　　Plainlywewereinanuglyfix。Theguideswerenaturallyunwillingtogoaloneandseekawayoutofthedifficulty；
　　soweallwenttogether。Forbettersecuritywemovedslowandcautiously，fortheforestwasverydense。
　　Wedidnotmoveupthemountain，butaroundit，hopingtostrikeacrosstheoldtrail。Towardnightfall，whenwewereabouttiredout，wecameupagainstarockasbigasacottage。Thisbarriertookalltheremainingspiritoutofthemen，andapanicoffearanddespairensued。
　　Theymoanedandwept，andsaidtheyshouldneverseetheirhomesandtheirdearonesagain。Thentheybegantoupbraidmeforbringingthemuponthisfatalexpedition。
　　Someevenmutteredthreatsagainstme。
　　Clearlyitwasnotimetoshowweakness。SoImadeaspeechinwhichIsaidthatotherAlp-climbershadbeeninasperilousapositionasthis，andyetbycourageandperseverancehadescaped。Ipromisedtostandbythem，Ipromisedtorescuethem。Iclosedbysayingwehadplentyofprovisionstomaintainusforquiteasiege——anddidtheysupposeZermattwouldallowhalfamileofmenandmulestomysteriouslydisappearduringanyconsiderabletime，rightabovetheirnoses，andmakenoinquiries?No，Zermattwouldsendoutsearching-expeditionsandweshouldbesaved。
　　Thisspeechhadagreateffect。Themenpitchedthetentswithsomelittleshowofcheerfulness，andweweresnuglyundercoverwhenthenightshutdown。InowreapedtherewardofmywisdominprovidingonearticlewhichisnotmentionedinanybookofAlpineadventurebutthis。
　　Irefertotheparegoric。Butforthatbeneficentdrug，wouldhavenotoneofthosemensleptamomentduringthatfearfulnight。Butforthatgentlepersuadertheymusthavetossed，unsoothed，thenightthrough；forthewhiskeywasforme。Yes，theywouldhaveriseninthemorningunfittedfortheirheavytask。Asitwas，everybodysleptbutmyagentandme——onlyweandthebarkeepers。
　　Iwouldnotpermitmyselftosleepatsuchatime。
　　Iconsideredmyselfresponsibleforallthoselives。
　　Imeanttobeonhandandready，incaseofavalanchesupthere，butIdidnotknowitthen。
　　Wewatchedtheweatherallthroughthatawfulnight，andkeptaneyeonthebarometer，tobepreparedfortheleastchange。Therewasnottheslightestchangerecordedbytheinstrument，duringthewholetime。
　　Wordscannotdescribethecomfortthatthatfriendly，hopeful，steadfastthingwastomeinthatseasonoftrouble。Itwasadefectivebarometer，andhadnohandbutthestationarybrasspointer，butIdidnotknowthatuntilafterward。IfIshouldbeinsuchasituationagain，Ishouldnotwishforanybarometerbutthatone。
　　Allhandsroseattwointhemorningandtookbreakfast，andassoonasitwaslightweropedourselvestogetherandwentatthatrock。Forsometimewetriedthehook-ropeandothermeansofscalingit，butwithoutsuccess——thatis，withoutperfectsuccess。Thehookcaughtonce，andHarrisstartedupithandoverhand，buttheholdbrokeandiftherehadnothappenedtobeachaplainsittingunderneathatthetime，Harriswouldcertainlyhavebeencrippled。
　　Asitwas，itwasthechaplain。Hetooktohiscrutches，andIorderedthehook-ropetobelaidaside。
　　Itwastoodangerousanimplementwheresomanypeoplearestandingaround。
　　Wewerepuzzledforawhile；thensomebodythoughtoftheladders。Oneofthesewasleanedagainsttherock，andthemenwentupittiedtogetherincouples。
　　Anotherladderwassentupforuseindescending。
　　Attheendofhalfanhoureverybodywasover，andthatrockwasconquered。Wegaveourfirstgrandshoutoftriumph。
　　Butthejoywasshort-lived，forsomebodyaskedhowweweregoingtogettheanimalsover。
　　Thiswasaseriousdifficulty；infact，itwasanimpossibility。
　　Thecourageofthemenbegantowaverimmediately；oncemorewewerethreatenedwithapanic。Butwhenthedangerwasmostimminent，weweresavedinamysteriousway。
　　Amulewhichhadattractedattentionfromthebeginningbyitsdispositiontoexperiment，triedtoeatafive-poundcanofnitroglycerin。Thishappenedrightalongsidetherock。Theexplosionthrewusalltotheground，andcovereduswithdirtanddebris；itfrightenedusextremely，too，forthecrashitmadewasdeafening，andtheviolenceoftheshockmadethegroundtremble。
　　However，weweregrateful，fortherockwasgone。
　　Itsplacewasoccupiedbyanewcellar，aboutthirtyfeetacross，byfifteenfeetdeep。TheexplosionwasheardasfarasZermatt；andanhourandahalfafterward，manycitizensofthattownwereknockeddownandquiteseriouslyinjuredbydescendingportionsofmulemeat，frozensolid。Thisshows，betterthananyestimateinfigures，howhightheexperimenterwent。
　　Wehadnothingtodo，now，butbridgethecellarandproceedonourway。Withacheerthemenwentattheirwork。
　　Iattendedtotheengineering，myself。Iappointedastrongdetailtocutdowntreeswithice-axesandtrimthemforpierstosupportthebridge。Thiswasaslowbusiness，forice-axesarenotgoodtocutwoodwith。Icausedmypierstobefirmlysetupinranksinthecellar，anduponthemIlaidsixofmyforty-footladders，sidebyside，andlaidsixmoreontopofthem。
　　UponthisbridgeIcausedabedofboughstobespread，andontopoftheboughsabedofearthsixinchesdeep。
　　Istretchedropesuponeithersidetoserveasrailings，andthenmybridgewascomplete。Atrainofelephantscouldhavecrosseditinsafetyandcomfort。Bynightfallthecaravanwasontheothersideandtheladdersweretakenup。
　　Nextmorningwewentoningoodspiritsforawhile，thoughourwaywasslowanddifficult，byreasonofthesteepandrockynatureofthegroundandthethicknessoftheforest；butatlastadulldespondencycreptintothemen'sfacesanditwasapparentthatnotonlythey，buteventheguides，werenowconvincedthatwewerelost。
　　Thefactthatwestillmetnotouristswasacircumstancethatwasbuttoosignificant。Anotherthingseemedtosuggestthatwewerenotonlylost，butverybadlylost；
　　fortheremustsurelybesearching-partiesontheroadbeforethistime，yetwehadseennosignofthem。
　　Demoralizationwasspreading；somethingmustbedone，anddonequickly，too。Fortunately，Iamnotunfertileinexpedients。Icontrivedonenowwhichcommendeditselftoall，foritpromisedwell。Itookthree-quartersofamileofropeandfastenedoneendofitaroundthewaistofaguide，andtoldhimtogofindtheroad，whilethecaravanwaited。Iinstructedhimtoguidehimselfbackbytherope，incaseoffailure；incaseofsuccess，hewastogivetheropeaseriesofviolentjerks，whereupontheExpeditionwouldgotohimatonce。
　　Hedeparted，andintwominuteshaddisappearedamongthetrees。Ipayedouttheropemyself，whileeverybodywatchedthecrawlingthingwitheagereyes。Theropecreptawayquiteslowly，attimes，atothertimeswithsomebriskness。Twiceorthriceweseemedtogetthesignal，andashoutwasjustreadytobreakfromthemen'slipswhentheyperceiveditwasafalsealarm。Butatlast，whenoverhalfamileofropehadsliddenaway，itstoppedglidingandstoodabsolutelystill——oneminute——twominutes——three——whileweheldourbreathandwatched。
　　Wastheguideresting?Washescanningthecountryfromsomehighpoint?Washeinquiringofachancemountaineer?
　　Stop，——hadhefaintedfromexcessoffatigueandanxiety?
　　Thisthoughtgaveusashock。IwasintheveryfirstactofdetailinganExpeditiontosuccorhim，whenthecordwasassailedwithaseriesofsuchfranticjerksthatI
　　couldhardlykeepholdofit。Thehuzzathatwentup，then，wasgoodtohear。"Saved!saved!"wasthewordthatrangout，alldownthelongrankofthecaravan。
　　Weroseupandstartedatonce。Wefoundtheroutetobegoodenoughforawhile，butitbegantogrowdifficult，byandby，andthisfeaturesteadilyincreased。Whenwejudgedwehadgonehalfamile，wemomentlyexpectedtoseetheguide；butno，hewasnotvisibleanywhere；
　　neitherwashewaiting，fortheropewasstillmoving，consequentlyhewasdoingthesame。Thisarguedthathehadnotfoundtheroad，yet，butwasmarchingtoitwithsomepeasant。Therewasnothingforustodobutplodalong——andthiswedid。Attheendofthreehourswewerestillplodding。Thiswasnotonlymysterious，butexasperating。Andveryfatiguing，too；forwehadtriedhard，alongatfirst，tocatchupwiththeguide，buthadonlyfaggedourselves，invain；foralthoughhewastravelingslowlyhewasyetabletogofasterthanthehamperedcaravanoversuchground。
　　Atthreeintheafternoonwewerenearlydeadwithexhaustion——andstilltheropewasslowlyglidingout。
　　Themurmursagainsttheguidehadbeengrowingsteadily，andatlasttheywerebecomeloudandsavage。
　　Amutinyensued。Themenrefusedtoproceed。Theydeclaredthatwehadbeentravelingoverandoverthesamegroundallday，inakindofcircle。Theydemandedthatourendoftheropebemadefasttoatree，soastohalttheguideuntilwecouldovertakehimandkillhim。
　　Thiswasnotanunreasonablerequirement，soIgavetheorder。
　　Assoonastheropewastied，theExpeditionmovedforwardwiththatalacritywhichthethirstforvengeanceusuallyinspires。Butafteratiresomemarchofalmosthalfamile，wecametoahillcoveredthickwithacrumblyrubbishofstones，andsosteepthatnomanofusallwasnowinaconditiontoclimbit。
　　Everyattemptfailed，andendedincripplingsomebody。
　　WithintwentyminutesIhadfivemenoncrutches。
　　Wheneveraclimbertriedtoassisthimselfbytherope，ityieldedandlethimtumblebackward。Thefrequencyofthisresultsuggestedanideatome。Iorderedthecaravanto'boutfaceandforminmarchingorder；
　　Ithenmadethetow-ropefasttotherearmule，andgavethecommand:
　　"Marktime——bytherightflank——forward——march!"
　　Theprocessionbegantomove，totheimpressivestrainsofabattle-chant，andIsaidtomyself，"Now，iftheropedon'tbreakIjudgeTHISwillfetchthatguideintothecamp。"
　　Iwatchedtheropeglidingdownthehill，andpresentlywhenIwasallfixedfortriumphIwasconfrontedbyabitterdisappointment；therewasnoguidetiedtotherope，itwasonlyaveryindignantoldblackram。
　　ThefuryofthebaffledExpeditionexceededallbounds。
　　Theyevenwantedtowreaktheirunreasoningvengeanceonthisinnocentdumbbrute。ButIstoodbetweenthemandtheirprey，menacedbyabristlingwallofice-axesandalpenstocks，andproclaimedthattherewasbutoneroadtothismurder，anditwasdirectlyovermycorpse。EvenasIspokeI
　　sawthatmydoomwassealed，exceptamiraclesupervenedtodivertthesemadmenfromtheirfellpurpose。Iseethesickeningwallofweaponsnow；IseethatadvancinghostasIsawitthen，Iseethehateinthosecrueleyes；
　　IrememberhowIdroopedmyheaduponmybreast，Ifeelagainthesuddenearthquakeshockinmyrear，administeredbytheveryramIwassacrificingmyselftosave；
　　IhearoncemorethetyphoonoflaughterthatburstfromtheassaultingcolumnasIcloveitfromvantorearlikeaSepoyshotfromaRodmangun。
　　Iwassaved。Yes，Iwassaved，andbythemercifulinstinctofingratitudewhichnaturehadplantedinthebreastofthattreacherousbeast。Thegracewhicheloquencehadfailedtoworkinthosemen'shearts，hadbeenwroughtbyalaugh。Theramwassetfreeandmylifewasspared。
　　Welivedtofindoutthatthatguidehaddesertedusassoonashehadplacedahalf-milebetweenhimselfandus。
　　Toavertsuspicion，hehadjudgeditbestthatthelineshouldcontinuetomove；sohecaughtthatram，andatthetimethathewassittingonitmakingtheropefasttoit，wewereimaginingthathewaslyinginaswoon，overcomebyfatigueanddistress。Whenheallowedtheramtogetupitfelltoplungingaround，tryingtoriditselfoftherope，andthiswasthesignalwhichwehadrisenupwithgladshoutstoobey。Wehadfollowedthisramroundandroundinacircleallday——athingwhichwasprovenbythediscoverythatwehadwateredtheExpeditionseventimesatoneandsamespringinsevenhours。
　　AsexpertawoodmanasIam，Ihadsomehowfailedtonoticethisuntilmyattentionwascalledtoitbyahog。
　　Thishogwasalwayswallowingthere，andashewastheonlyhogwesaw，hisfrequentrepetition，togetherwithhisunvaryingsimilaritytohimself，finallycausedmetoreflectthathemustbethesamehog，andthisledmetothedeductionthatthismustbethesamespring，also——whichindeeditwas。
　　Imadeanoteofthiscuriousthing，asshowinginastrikingmannertherelativedifferencebetweenglacialactionandtheactionofthehog。Itisnowawell-establishedfactthatglaciersmove；Iconsiderthatmyobservationsgotoshow，withequalconclusiveness，thatahoginaspringdoesnotmove。Ishallbegladtoreceivetheopinionsofotherobserversuponthispoint。
　　Toreturn，foranexplanatorymoment，tothatguide，andthenIshallbedonewithhim。Afterleavingtheramtiedtotherope，hehadwanderedatlargeawhile，andthenhappenedtorunacrossacow。Judgingthatacowwouldnaturallyknowmorethanaguide，hetookherbythetail，andtheresultjustifiedhisjudgment。
　　Shenibbledherleisurelywaydownhilltillitwasnearmilking-time，thenshestruckforhomeandtowedhimintoZermatt。
　　CHAPTERXXXVIII
　　[IConquertheGornerGrat]
　　Wewentintocamponthatwildspottowhichthatramhadbroughtus。Themenweregreatlyfatigued。
　　Theirconvictionthatwewerelostwasforgotteninthecheerofagoodsupper，andbeforethereactionhadachancetosetin，Iloadedthemupwithparegoricandputthemtobed。
　　NextmorningIwasconsideringinmymindourdesperatesituationandtryingtothinkofaremedy，whenHarriscametomewithaBaedekermapwhichshowedconclusivelythatthemountainwewereonwasstillinSwitzerland——yes，everypartofitwasinSwitzerland。Sowewerenotlost，afterall。Thiswasanimmenserelief；itliftedtheweightoftwosuchmountainsfrommybreast。Iimmediatelyhadthenewsdisseminatedandthemapwasexhibited。
　　Theeffectwaswonderful。Assoonasthemensawwiththeirowneyesthattheyknewwheretheywere，andthatitwasonlythesummitthatwaslostandnotthemselves，theycheeredupinstantlyandsaidwithoneaccord，letthesummittakecareofitself。
　　Ourdistressesbeingatanend，InowdeterminedtorestthemenincampandgivethescientificdepartmentoftheExpeditionachance。First，Imadeabarometricobservation，togetouraltitude，butIcouldnotperceivethattherewasanyresult。Iknew，bymyscientificreading，thateitherthermometersorbarometersoughttobeboiled，tomakethemaccurate；Ididnotknowwhichitwas，soIboiledthemboth。Therewasstillnoresult；
　　soIexaminedtheseinstrumentsanddiscoveredthattheypossessedradicalblemishes:thebarometerhadnohandbutthebrasspointerandtheballofthethermometerwasstuffedwithtin-foil。Imighthaveboiledthosethingstorags，andneverfoundoutanything。
　　Ihuntedupanotherbarometer；itwasnewandperfect。
　　Iboiledithalfanhourinapotofbeansoupwhichthecooksweremaking。Theresultwasunexpected:theinstrumentwasnotaffectingatall，buttherewassuchastrongbarometertastetothesoupthattheheadcook，whowasamostconscientiousperson，changeditsnameinthebilloffare。Thedishwassogreatlylikedbyall，thatIorderedthecooktohavebarometersoupeveryday。
　　Itwasbelievedthatthebarometermighteventuallybeinjured，butIdidnotcareforthat。Ihaddemonstratedtomysatisfactionthatitcouldnottellhowhighamountainwas，thereforeIhadnorealuseforit。
　　ChangesintheweatherIcouldtakecareofwithoutit；
　　Ididnotwishtoknowwhentheweatherwasgoingtobegood，whatIwantedtoknowwaswhenitwasgoingtobebad，andthisIcouldfindoutfromHarris'scorns。HarrishadhadhiscornstestedandregulatedatthegovernmentobservatoryinHeidelberg，andonecoulddependuponthemwithconfidence。SoItransferredthenewbarometertothecookingdepartment，tobeusedfortheofficialmess。
　　Itwasfoundthatevenaprettyfairarticleofsoupcouldbemadefromthedefectivebarometer；soIallowedthatonetobetransferredtothesubordinatemess。
　　Inextboiledthethermometer，andgotamostexcellentresult；
　　themercurywentuptoabout200degreesFahrenheit。
　　IntheopinionoftheotherscientistsoftheExpedition，thisseemedtoindicatethatwehadattainedtheextraordinaryaltitudeoftwohundredthousandfeetabovesea-level。
　　Scienceplacesthelineofeternalsnowatabouttenthousandfeetabovesea-level。Therewasnosnowwherewewere，consequentlyitwasproventhattheeternalsnow-lineceasessomewhereabovetheten-thousand-footlevelanddoesnotbeginanymore。Thiswasaninterestingfact，andonewhichhadnotbeenobservedbyanyobserverbefore。
　　Itwasasvaluableasinteresting，too，sinceitwouldopenupthedesertedsummitsofthehighestAlpstopopulationandagriculture。Itwasaproudthingtobewherewewere，yetitcausedusapangtoreflectthatbutforthatramwemightjustaswellbeentwohundredthousandfeethigher。
　　Thesuccessofmylastexperimentinducedmetotryanexperimentwithmyphotographicapparatus。Igotitout，andboiledoneofmycameras，butthethingwasafailure；
　　itmadethewoodswellupandburst，andIcouldnotseethatthelenseswereanybetterthantheywerebefore。
　　Inowconcludedtoboilaguide。Itmightimprovehim，itcouldnotimpairhisusefulness。ButIwasnotallowedtoproceed。Guideshavenofeelingforscience，andthisonewouldnotconsenttobemadeuncomfortableinitsinterest。
　　Inthemidstofmyscientificwork，oneofthoseneedlessaccidentshappenedwhicharealwaysoccurringamongtheignorantandthoughtless。AportershotatachamoisandmisseditandcrippledtheLatinist。
　　Thiswasnotaseriousmattertome，foraLatinist'sdutiesareaswellperformedoncrutchesasotherwise——
　　butthefactremainedthatiftheLatinisthadnothappenedtobeinthewayamulewouldhavegotthatload。Thatwouldhavebeenquiteanothermatter，forwhenitcomesdowntoaquestionofvaluethereisapalpabledifferencebetweenaLatinistandamule。
　　IcouldnotdependonhavingaLatinistintherightplaceeverytime；so，tomakethingssafe，Iorderedthatinthefuturethechamoismustnotbehuntedwithinlimitsofthecampwithanyotherweaponthantheforefinger。
　　Mynerveshadhardlygrownquietafterthisaffairwhentheygotanothershake-up——onewhichutterlyunmannedmeforamoment:arumorsweptsuddenlythroughthecampthatoneofthebarkeepershadfallenoveraprecipice!
　　However，itturnedoutthatitwasonlyachaplain。
　　Ihadlaidinanextraforceofchaplains，purposelytobepreparedforemergencieslikethis，butbysomeunaccountableoversighthadcomeawayrathershort-handedinthematterofbarkeepers。
　　Onthefollowingmorningwemovedon，wellrefreshedandingoodspirits。Irememberthisdaywithpeculiarpleasure，becauseitsawourroadrestoredtous。Yes，wefoundourroadagain，andinquiteanextraordinaryway。
　　Wehadploddedalongsometwohoursandahalf，whenwecameupagainstasolidmassofrockabouttwentyfeethigh。
　　Ididnotneedtobeinstructedbyamulethistime。
　　IwasalreadybeginningtoknowmorethananymuleintheExpedition。Iatonceputinablastofdynamite，andliftedthatrockoutoftheway。Buttomysurpriseandmortification，Ifoundthattherehadbeenachaletontopofit。
　　Ipickedupsuchmembersofthefamilyasfellinmyvicinity，andsubordinatesofmycorpscollectedtherest。
　　Noneofthesepoorpeoplewereinjured，happily，buttheyweremuchannoyed。Iexplainedtotheheadchaleteerjusthowthethinghappened，andthatIwasonlysearchingfortheroad，andwouldcertainlyhavegivenhimtimelynoticeifIhadknownhewasupthere。IsaidIhadmeantnoharm，andhopedIhadnotloweredmyselfinhisestimationbyraisinghimafewrodsintheair。
　　Isaidmanyotherjudiciousthings，andfinallywhenI
　　offeredtorebuildhischalet，andpayforthebreakages，andthrowinthecellar，hewasmollifiedandsatisfied。
　　Hehadn'tanycellaratall，before；hewouldnothaveasgoodaview，now，asformerly，butwhathehadlostinviewhehadgainedincellar，byexactmeasurement。
　　Hesaidtherewasn'tanotherholelikethatinthemountains——
　　andhewouldhavebeenrightifthelatemulehadnottriedtoeatupthenitroglycerin。
　　Iputahundredandsixteenmenatwork，andtheyrebuiltthechaletfromitsowndebrisinfifteenminutes。
　　Itwasagooddealmorepicturesquethanitwasbefore，too。ThemansaidwewerenowontheFeil-Stutz，abovetheSchwegmatt——informationwhichIwasgladtoget，sinceitgaveusourpositiontoadegreeofparticularitywhichwehadnotbeenaccustomedtoforadayorso。
　　WealsolearnedthatwewerestandingatthefootoftheRiffelbergproper，andthattheinitialchapterofourworkwascompleted。
　　Wehadafineview，fromhere，oftheenergeticVisp，asitmakesitsfirstplungeintotheworldfromunderahugearchofsolidice，wornthroughthefoot-wallofthegreatGornerGlacier；andwecouldalsoseetheFurggenbach，whichistheoutletoftheFurggenGlacier。
　　Themule-roadtothesummitoftheRiffelbergpassedrightinfrontofthechalet，acircumstancewhichwealmostimmediatelynoticed，becauseaprocessionoftouristswasfilingalongitprettymuchallthetime。[1]Thechaleteer'sbusinessconsistedinfurnishingrefreshmentstotourists。
　　Myblasthadinterruptedthistradeforafewminutes，bybreakingallthebottlesontheplace；butIgavethemanalotofwhiskeytosellforAlpinechampagne，andalotofvinegarwhichwouldanswerforRhinewine，consequentlytradewassoonasbriskasever。
　　1。"Prettymuch"maynotbeelegantEnglish，butitishightimeitwas。Thereisnoelegantwordorphrasewhichmeansjustwhatitmeans——M。T。
　　LeavingtheExpeditionoutsidetorest，Iquarteredmyselfinthechalet，withHarris，proposingtocorrectmyjournalsandscientificobservationsbeforecontinuingtheascent。
　　Ihadhardlybegunmyworkwhenatall，slender，vigorousAmericanyouthofabouttwenty-three，whowasonhiswaydownthemountain，enteredandcametowardmewiththatbreezeself-complacencywhichistheadolescent'sideaofthewell-bredeaseofthemanoftheworld。
　　Hishairwasshortandpartedaccuratelyinthemiddle，andhehadallthelookofanAmericanpersonwhowouldbelikelytobeginhissignaturewithaninitial，andspellhismiddlenameout。Heintroducedhimself，smilingasmirkysmileborrowedfromthecourtiersofthestage，extendedafair-skinnedtalon，andwhilehegrippedmyhandinithebenthisbodyforwardthreetimesatthehips，asthestagecourtierdoes，andsaidintheairiestandmostcondescendingandpatronizingway——Iquiterememberhisexactlanguage:
　　"Verygladtomakeyouracquaintance，'msure；verygladindeed，assureyou。I'vereadallyourlittleeffortsandgreatlyadmiredthem，andwhenIheardyouwerehere，I……"
　　Iindicatedachair，andhesatdown。ThisgrandeewasthegrandsonofanAmericanofconsiderablenoteinhisday，andnotwhollyforgottenyet——amanwhocamesonearbeingagreatmanthathewasquitegenerallyaccountedonewhilehelived。
　　Islowlypacedthefloor，ponderingscientificproblems，andheardthisconversation:
　　GRANDSON。FirstvisittoEurope?
　　HARRIS。Mine?Yes。
　　G。S。Withasoftreminiscentsighsuggestiveofbygonejoysthatmaybetastedintheirfreshnessbutonce。
　　Ah，Iknowwhatitistoyou。Afirstvisit!——ah，theromanceofit!IwishIcouldfeelitagain。
　　H。Yes，Ifinditexceedsallmydreams。Itisenchantment。
　　Igo……
　　G。S。Withadaintygestureofthehandsignifying"Sparemeyourcallowenthusiasms，goodfriend。"Yes，_I_know，Iknow；yougotocathedrals，andexclaim；andyoudragthroughleague-longpicture-galleriesandexclaim；andyoustandhere，andthere，andyonder，uponhistoricground，andcontinuetoexclaim；andyouarepermeatedwithyourfirstcrudeconceptionsofArt，andareproudandhappy。Ah，yes，proudandhappy——thatexpressesit。
　　Yes-yes，enjoyit——itisright——itisaninnocentrevel。
　　H。Andyou?Don'tyoudothesethingsnow?
　　G。S。I!Oh，thatisVERYgood!Mydearsir，whenyouareasoldatravelerasIam，youwillnotasksuchaquestionasthat。_I_visittheregulationgallery，moonaroundtheregulationcathedral，dothewornroundoftheregulationsights，YET?——Excuseme!
　　H。Well，whatDOyoudo，then?
　　G。S。Do?Iflit——andflit——forIameveronthewing——butI
　　avoidtheherd。TodayIaminParis，tomorrowinBerlin，anoninRome；butyouwouldlookformeinvaininthegalleriesoftheLouvreorthecommonresortsofthegazersinthoseothercapitals。Ifyouwouldfindme，youmustlookintheunvisitednooksandcornerswhereothersneverthinkofgoing。Onedayyouwillfindmemakingmyselfathomeinsomeobscurepeasant'scabin，anotherdayyouwillfindmeinsomeforgottencastleworshipingsomelittlegemorartwhichthecarelesseyehasoverlookedandwhichtheunexperiencedwoulddespise；
　　againyouwillfindmeasguestintheinnersanctuariesofpalaceswhiletheherdiscontenttogetahurriedglimpseoftheunusedchambersbyfeeingaservant。