首页 >出版文学> Wild Wales>第21章

第21章

  "Weare,yourreverence。"
  "Woulditnotbequiterighttosaddleandbridleyouall,andrideyouviolentlydownHolyheadortheGiant’sCausewayintothewaters,causingyoutoperishthere,liketheherdofswineofold?"
  "Itwould,yourreverence。"
  "Andknowingandconfessingallthis,youhavethecheektocomeandaskmeforablessing?"
  "Wehave,yourreverence。"
  "Well,howshallIgivetheblessing?"
  "Och,sureyourreverenceknowsverywellhowtogiveit。"
  "ShallIgiveitinIrish?"
  "Och,no,yourreverence—ablessinginIrishisnoblessingatall。"
  "InEnglish?"
  "Och,murder,no,yourreverence,GodpreserveusallfromanEnglishblessing!"
  "InLatin?"
  "Yes,sure,yourreverence;inwhatelseshouldyoublessusbutinholyLatin?"
  "Wellthenprepareyourselves。"
  "Wewill,yourreverence—stayonemomentwhilstIwhispertotheboysthatyourreverenceisabouttobestowyourblessinguponus。"
  Thenturningtotherestwhoallthistimehadkepttheireyesfixedintentlyuponus,hebellowedwiththevoiceofabull:
  "Downonyourmarrowbones,yesinners,forhisreverenceTobanisabouttoblessusallinholyLatin。"
  Hethenflunghimselfonhiskneesonthepier,andallhiscountrymen,baringtheirheads,followedhisexample—yes,therekneltthirtybare—headedEirionaichonthepierofCaerGybibeneaththebroilingsun。IgavethemthebestLatinblessingI
  couldremember,outoftwoorthreewhichIhadgotbymemoryoutofanoldPopishbookofdevotion,whichIboughtinmyboyhoodatastall。ThenturningtothedeputyIsaid,"Well,nowareyousatisfied?"
  "Sure,Ihavearighttobesatisfied,yourreverence;andsohaveweall—surewecannowallgoonboardthedirtysteamer,withoutfearoffireorwater,ortheblackguardHillofHowtheither。"
  "Thengetup,andtelltheresttogetup,andpleasetoknowandlettherestknow,thatIdonotchoosetoreceivefarthertrouble,eitherbywordorlook,fromanyofye,aslongasIremainhere。"
  "Yourreverenceshallbeobeyedinallthings,"saidthefellow,gettingup。Thenwalkingawaytohiscompanionshecried,"Getup,boys,andplasetoknowthathisreverenceTobanisnottobefarthertroubledbybeinglookedatorspokentobyanyoneofusaslongasheremainsuponthisdirtypier。"
  "Divilabitfarthertroubleshallhehavefromus!"exclaimedmanyavoice,astherestofthepartyarosefromtheirknees。
  InhalfaminutetheydisposedthemselvesinmuchthesamemannerasthatinwhichtheywerewhenIfirstsawthem—someflungthemselvesagaintosleepunderthewall,someseatedthemselveswiththeirbacksagainstit,andlaughedandchatted,butwithouttakinganynoticeofme;thosewhosatandchattedtook,orappearedtotake,aslittlenoticeasthosewholayandsleptofhisreverenceFatherToban。
  CHAPTERXLII
  GageofSuffolk—FellowinaTurban—TownofHolyhead—FatherBoots—AnExpedition—HolyHeadandFinisterrae—GryffithabCynan—TheFairies’Well。
  LEAVINGthepierIturnedupastreettothesouth,andwasnotlongbeforeIarrivedatakindofmarket—place,wherewerecartsandstalls,andontheground,oncloths,applesandplums,andabundanceofgreengages,—thelatter,whengood,decidedlythefinestfruitintheworld,afruit,fortheintroductionofwhichintoEngland,theEnglishhavetothankoneGageofanancientSuffolkfamily,atpresentextinct,afterwhosenamethefruitderivesthelatterpartofitsappellation。Strollingaboutthemarket—placeIcameincontactwithafellowdressedinaturbananddirtybluelinenrobesandtrowsers。Heboreabundleofpapersinhishand,oneofwhichheofferedtome。Iaskedhimwhohewas。
  "Arap,"hereplied。
  Hehadadark,cunning,roguishcountenance,withsmalleyes,andhadalltheappearanceofaJew。IspoketohiminwhatArabicI
  couldcommandonasudden,andhejabberedtomeinacorruptdialect,givingmeaconfusedaccountofacaptivitywhichhehadundergoneamidstsavageMahometans。AtlastIaskedhimwhatreligionhewasof。
  "TheChristian,"hereplied。
  "HaveyoueverbeenoftheJewish?"saidI。
  Hereturnednoanswersavebyagrin。
  Itookthepaper,gavehimapenny,andthenwalkedaway。ThepapercontainedanaccountinEnglishofhowthebearer,thesonofChristianparents,hadbeencarriedintocaptivitybytwoMahometanmerchants,afatherandson,fromwhomhehadescapedwiththegreatestdifficulty。
  "Prettyfools,"saidI,"mustanypeoplehavebeenwhoeverstoleyou;butohwhatfoolsiftheywishedtokeepyouaftertheyhadgotyou!"
  Thepaperwasstuffedwithreligiousandanti—slaverycant,andmerelywantedalittleoftheteetotalnonsensetobeaperfectspecimenofhumbug。
  Istrolledforward,encounteringmorecartsandmoreheapsofgreengages;presentlyIturnedtotherightbyastreet,whichledsomewayupthehill。Thehousesweretolerablylargeandallwhite。Thetown,withitswhitehousesplacedbytheseaside,ontheskirtofamountain,beneathablueskyandabroilingsun,putmesomethinginmindofaMoorishpiraticaltown,inwhichIhadoncebeen。Becomingsoontiredofwalkingabout,withoutanyparticularaim,insogreataheat,Ideterminedtoreturntotheinn,callforale,anddeliberateonwhatIhadbestnextdo。SoI
  returnedandcalledforale。ThealewhichwasbroughtwasnotalewhichIamparticularlyfondof。ThealewhichIamfondofisaleaboutnineortenmonthsold,somewhathard,tastingwellofmaltandlittleofthehop—alesuchasfarmers,andnoblementoo,ofthegoodoldtime,whenfarmers’daughtersdidnotplayonpianosandnoblemendidnotselltheirgame,wereinthehabitofofferingtobothhighandlow,anddrinkingthemselves。Thealewhichwasbroughtmewasthinwashystuff,whichthoughitdidnottastemuchofhop,tastedstilllessofmalt,madeandsoldbyoneAllsopp,whoIamtoldcallshimselfasquireandagentleman—ashecertainlymaywithquiteasmuchrightasmanyalordcallshimselfanoblemanandagentleman;forsurelyitisnotafractionmoretrumperytomakeandsellalethantofattenandsellgame。ThealeoftheSaxonsquire,forAllsoppisdecidedlyanoldSaxonname,howeverunakintothepracticeofoldSaxonsquiresthesellingofalemaybe,wasdrinkableforitwasfresh,andtheday,asIhavesaidbefore,exceedinglyhot;soItookfrequentdraughtsoutoftheshiningmetaltankardinwhichitwasbrought,deliberatingbothwhilstdrinking,andintheintervalsofdrinking,onwhatIhadnextbestdo。Ihadsomethoughtsofcrossingtothenorthernsideofthebay,then,bearingthenorth—
  east,wendmywaytoAmlwch,followthewindingsofthesea—shoretoMathafarneithafandPentraethCoch,andthenreturntoBangor,afterwhichIcouldboastthatIhadwalkedroundthewholeofAnglesey,andindeedtroddennoinconsiderablepartofthewaytwice。Beforecoming,however,toanyresolution,Ideterminedtoasktheadviceofmyfriendthebootsonthesubject。SoI
  finishedmyale,andsentwordbythewaiterthatIwishedtospeaktohim;hecameforthwith,andaftercommunicatingmydeliberationstohiminafewwordsIcravedhiscounsel。Theoldman,afterrubbinghisrightforefingerbehindhisrightearforaboutaquarterofaminute,inquiredifImeanttoreturntoBangor,andonmytellinghimthatitwouldbenecessaryformetodoso,asI
  intendedtowalkbacktoLlangollenbyCaernarvonandBethGelert,stronglyadvisedmetoreturntoBangorbytherailroadtrain,whichwouldstartatsevenintheevening,andwouldconveymethitherinanhourandahalf。ItoldhimthatIhatedrailroads,andreceivedforanswerthathehadnoparticularlikingforthemhimself,butthatheoccasionallymadeuseofthemonapinch,andsupposedthatIlikewisedidthesame。Ithenobserved,thatifI
  followedhisadviceIshouldnotseethenorthsideoftheislandnoritsprincipaltownAmlwch,andreceivedforanswerthatifI
  neverdid,thelosswouldnotbegreat—thatasforAmlwchitwasapoorpoverty—strickenplace—theinnashabbyaffair—themasteraveryso—soindividual,andthebootsafellowwithouteitherwitorliterature。ThatuponthewholehethoughtImightbesatisfiedwithwhatIhadseenforafterhavingvisitedOwenTudor’stomb,CaerGybiandhishotel,IhadinfactseenthecreamofMona。IthensaidthatIhadoneobjectiontomake,whichwasthatIreallydidnotknowhowtoemploythetimetillseveno’clock,forthatIhadseenallaboutthetown。
  "ButhasyourhonourascendedtheHead?"demandedFatherBoots。
  "No,"saidI;"Ihavenot。"
  "Then,"saidhe,"Iwillsoonfindyourhonourwaysandmeanstospendthetimeagreeablytillthestartingofthetrain。YourhonourshallascendtheHeadundertheguidanceofmynephew,aniceintelligentlad,yourhonour,andalwaysgladtoearnashillingortwo。BythetimeyourhonourhasseenallthewondersoftheHeadandreturned,itwillbefiveo’clock。Yourhonourcanthendine,andafterdinnertrifleawaytheminutesoveryourwineorbrandy—and—watertillseven,whenyourhonourcanstepintoafirst—classforBangor。"
  Iwasstruckwiththehappymannerinwhichhehadremovedthedifficultyinquestion,andinformedhimthatIwasdeterminedtofollowhisadvice。Hehurriedaway,andpresentlyreturnedwithhisnephew,towhomIofferedhalf—a—crownprovidedhewouldshowmeallaboutPenCaerGyby。Heacceptedmyofferwithevidentsatisfaction,andwelostnotimeinsettingoutuponourexpedition。
  Wehadtopassoveragreatdealofbrokenground,sometimesascending,sometimesdescending,beforewefoundourselvesuponthesideofwhatmayactuallybecalledtheheadland。Shapingourcoursewestwardwecametothevicinityofalighthousestandingonthevergeofaprecipice,thefootofwhichwaswashedbythesea。
  Leavingthelighthouseonourrightwefollowedasteepwindingpathwhichatlastbroughtustothetopofthepenorsummit,rising,accordingtothejudgmentwhichIformed,aboutsixhundredfeetfromthesurfaceofthesea。Herewasalevelspotsometwentyyardsacross,inthemiddleofwhichstoodaheapofstonesorcairn。Iaskedtheladwhetherthiscairnboreaname,andreceivedforanswerthatitwasgenerallycalledBar—cluderyCawrGlas,wordswhichseemtosignifythetopheapoftheGreyGiant。
  "Someking,giant,ormanofoldrenownliesburiedbeneaththiscairn,"saidI。"Whoeverhemaybe,Itrusthewillexcusemeformountingit,seeingthatIdosowithnodisrespectfulspirit。"I
  thenmountedthecairn,exclaiming:—
  "Wholies’neaththecairnontheheadlandhoar,Hishandyetholdinghisbroadclaymore,IsitBeli,thesonofBenlliGawr?"
  TherestoodIonthecairnoftheGreyGiant,lookingaroundme。
  Theprospect,oneveryside,wasnoble:theblueinterminableseatothewestandnorth;thewholestretchofMonatotheeast;andfarawaytothesouththemountainousregionofEryri,comprisingsomeofthemostromantichillsintheworld。InsomerespectsthisPenSantaidd,thisholyheadland,remindedmeofFinisterrae,theGalleganpromontorywhichIhadascendedsomeseventeenyearsbefore,whilstengagedinbattlingthePopewiththeswordofthegospelinhisfavouriteterritory。Botharebold,bluffheadlandslookingtothewest,bothhavehugerocksintheirvicinity,risingfromthebosomofthebrine。Foratime,asIstoodonthecairn,IalmostimaginedmyselfontheGalleganhill;muchthesamescenerypresenteditselfasthere,andasunequallyfiercestruckuponmyheadasthatwhichassaileditontheGalleganhill。ForatimeallmythoughtswereofSpain。Itwasnotlong,however,beforeIbethoughtmethatmylotwasnowinadifferentregion,thatIhaddonewithSpainforever,afterdoingforherallthatlayinthepowerofaloneman,whohadneverinthisworldanythingtodependupon,butGodandhisownslightstrength。Yes,IhaddonewithSpain,andwasnowinWales;and,afteraslightsigh,mythoughtsbecameallintenselyWelsh。IthoughtontheoldtimeswhenMonawasthegrandseatofDruidicalsuperstition,whenadorationwaspaidtoDwyFawr,andDwyFach,thesolesurvivorsoftheapocryphalDeluge;toHutheMightyandhisplough;toCeridwenandhercauldron;toAndrastheHorrible;toWynabNudd,LordofUnknown,andtoBeli,EmperoroftheSun。IthoughtonthetimeswhentheBealfireblazedonthisheight,ontheneighbouringpromontory,onthecope—stoneofEryri,andoneveryhighhillthroughoutBritainontheeveofthefirstofMay。IthoughtonthedaywhenthebandsofSuetoniuscrossedtheMenaistraitintheirbroad—bottomedboats,fellupontheDruidsandtheirfollowers,whowithwildlooksandbrandishedtorcheslinedtheshore,slewhundredswithmercilessbutcheryupontheplains,andpursuedtheremaindertotheremotestfastnessesoftheisle。I
  figuredtomyselflong—beardedmenwithwhitevestmentstoilinguptherocks,followedbyfiercewarriorswithglitteringhelmsandshortbroadtwo—edgedswords;IthoughtIheardgroans,criesofrage,andthedull,awfulsoundofbodiesprecipitateddownrocks。
  ThenasIlookedtowardstheseaIthoughtIsawthefleetofGryffithAbCynansteeringfromIrelandtoAberMenai,Gryffith,thesonofafugitiveking,borninIreland,intheCommotofColumbcille,Gryffiththefrequentlybaffled,theoftenvictorious;
  onceamanacledprisonersweatinginthesun,inthemarket—placeofChester,eventuallykingofNorthWales;Gryffith,who"thoughhelovedwellthetrumpet’sclanglovedthesoundoftheharpbetter";wholedonhiswarriorstotwenty—fourbattles,andpresidedoverthecompositionofthetwenty—fourmeasuresofCambriansong。ThenIthought—。ButIshouldtirethereaderwereItodetailalltheintenselyWelshthoughtswhichcrowdedintomyheadasIstoodontheCairnoftheGreyGiant。
  Satiatedwithlookingaboutandthinking,Isprangfromthecairnandrejoinedmyguide。Wenowdescendedtheeasternsideofthehilltillwecametoasingularlookingstone,whichhadmuchtheappearanceofaDruid’sstone。Iinquiredofmyguidewhethertherewasanytaleconnectedwiththisstone。
  "None,"hereplied;"butIhaveheardpeoplesaythatitwasastrangestone,andonthataccountIbroughtyoutolookatit。"
  Alittlefartherdownheshowedmepartofaruinedwall。
  "Whatnamedoesthisbear?"saidI。
  "ClawddyrAfalon,"hereplied。"Thedykeoftheorchard。"
  "Astrangeplaceforanorchard,"Ireplied。"Iftherewaseveranorchardonthisbleakhill,theapplesmusthavebeenverysour。"
  Overrocksandstoneswedescendedtillwefoundourselvesonaroad,notveryfarfromtheshore,onthesouth—eastsideofthehill。
  "Iamverythirsty,"saidI,asIwipedtheperspirationfrommyface;"howIshouldlikenowtodrinkmyfillofcoolspringwater。"
  "Ifyourhonourisinclinedforwater,"saidmyguide,"IcantakeyoutothefinestspringinallWales。"
  "Praydoso,"saidI,"forIreallyamdyingofthirst。"
  "Itisonourwaytothetown,"saidthelad,"andisscarcelyahundredyardsoff。"
  Hethenledmetothefountain。Itwasalittlewellunderastonewall,ontheleftsideoftheway。Itmightbeabouttwofeetdeep,wasfencedwithrudestones,andhadabottomofsand。
  "There,"saidthelad,"isthefountain。ItiscalledtheFairies’
  Well,andcontainsthebestwaterinWales。"
  Ilaydownanddrank。Oh,whatwaterwasthatoftheFairies’
  Well!Idrankanddrank,andthoughtIcouldneverdrinkenoughofthatdeliciouswater;theladallthetimesayingthatIneednotbeafraidtodrink,asthewateroftheFairies’Wellhadneverdoneharmtoanybody。AtlengthIgotup,andstandingbythefountainrepeatedthelinesofabardonaspring,notofaWelshbutaGaelicbard,whichareperhapsthefinestlinesevercomposedonthetheme。YetMacIntyre,forsuchwashisname,waslikemyselfanadmirerofgoodale,tosaynothingofwhiskey,andlovedtoindulgeinitatapropertimeandplace。Butthereisatimeandplaceforeverything,andsometimesthewarmestadmirerofalewouldpreferthelymphofthehill—sidefountaintothechoicestalethateverfoamedintankardfromthecellarsofHolkham。Herearethelinesmostfaithfullyrendered:—
  "Thewildwineofnature,Honey—likeinitstaste,Thegenial,fair,thinelementFilteringthroughthesands,Whichissweeterthancinnamon,Andiswellknowntoushunters。
  O,thateternal,healingdraught,Whichcomesfromundertheearth,WhichcontainsabundanceofgoodAndcostsnomoney!"
  ReturningtothehotelIsatisfiedmyguideanddined。AfterdinnerItrifledagreeablywithmybrandy—and—watertillitwasnearseveno’clock,whenIpaidmybill,thoughtofthewaiteranddidnotforgetFatherBoots。Ithentookmydeparture,receivingandreturningbows,andwalkingtothestationgotintoafirst—
  classcarriageandsoonfoundmyselfatBangor。
  CHAPTERXLIII
  TheInnatBangor—PortDynNorwig—SeaSerpent—ThoroughlyWelshPlace—BlessingofHealth。
  IWENTtothesameinnatBangoratwhichIhadbeenbefore。ItwasSaturdaynightandthehousewasthrongedwithpeoplewhohadarrivedbytrainfromManchesterandLiverpool,withtheintentionofpassingtheSundayintheWelshtown。Itookteainanimmensediningorball—room,whichwas,however,socrowdedwithgueststhatitswallsliterallysweated。AmidstthemultitudeIfeltquitesolitary—mybelovedoneshaddepartedforLlangollen,andtherewasnoonewithwhomIcouldexchangeathoughtorawordofkindness。Iaddressedseveralindividuals,andineveryinstancerepented;fromsomeIgotnoanswers,fromotherswhatwasworsethannoanswersatall—ineverycountenancenearmesuspicion,brutality,orconceit,wasmostlegiblyimprinted—IwasnotamongstWelsh,butthescumofmanufacturingEngland。
  Everybedinthehousewasengaged—thepeopleofthehouse,however,providedmeabedataplacewhichtheycalledthecottage,onthesideofahillintheoutskirtsofthetown。ThereIpassedthenightcomfortablyenough。AtabouteightinthemorningIarose,returnedtotheinn,breakfasted,anddepartedforBethGelertbywayofCaernarvon。
  ItwasSunday,andIhadoriginallyintendedtopassthedayatBangor,andtoattenddivineservicetwiceattheCathedral,butI
  foundmyselfsoveryuncomfortable,owingtothecrowdofinterlopers,thatIdeterminedtoproceedonmyjourneywithoutdelay;makingupmymind,however,toenterthefirstchurchI
  shouldmeetinwhichservicewasbeingperformed;foritisreallynotgoodtotravelontheSundaywithoutgoingintoaplaceofworship。
  Thedaywassunnyandfiercelyhot,asallthedayshadlatelybeen。InaboutanhourIarrivedatPortDynNorwig:itstoodontherightsideoftheroad。Thenameofthisplace,whichIhadheardfromthecoachmanwhodrovemyfamilyandmetoCaernarvonandLlanberisafewdaysbefore,hadexcitedmycuriositywithrespecttoit,asitsignifiesthePortoftheNorwayman,soInowturnedasidetoexamineit。"Nodoubt,"saidItomyself,"theplacederivesitsnamefromthepiraticalDanesandNorsehavingresortedtoitintheoldtime。"PortDynNorwigseemstoconsistofacreek,astaithe,andaboutahundredhouses:afewsmallvesselswerelyingatthestaithe。Istoodabouttenminutesuponitstaringabout,andthenfeelingratheroppressedbytheheatofthesun,Ibentmywaytoasmallhousewhichboreasign,andfromwhichaloudnoiseofvoicesproceeded。"Haveyougoodale?"saidIinEnglishtoagood—lookingbuxomdameofaboutforty,whomI
  sawinthepassage。
  Shelookedatmebutreturnednoanswer。
  "Oesgenochcwrwda?"saidI。
  "Oes!"sherepliedwithasmile,andopeningthedoorofaroomontheleft—handbademewalkin。
  Ienteredtheroom;sixorsevenmen,seeminglysea—faringpeople,wereseateddrinkingandtalkingvociferouslyinWelsh。Theirconversationwasaboutthesea—serpent:somebelievedintheexistenceofsuchathing,othersdidnot。Afteralittletimeonesaid,"Letusaskthisgentlemanforhisopinion。"
  "Andwhatwouldbetheuseofaskinghim?"saidanother,"wehaveonlyCumraeg,andhehasonlySaesneg。"
  "IhavealittlebrokenCumraeg,attheserviceofthisgoodcompany,"saidI。"WithrespecttothesnakeoftheseaIbegleavetosaythatIbelieveintheexistenceofsuchacreature;
  andamsurprisedthatanypeopleinthesepartsshouldnotbelieveinit:why,thesea—serpenthasbeenseenintheseparts。"
  "Whenwasthat,GwrBoneddig?"saidoneofthecompany。
  "Aboutfiftyyearsago,"saidI。"OnceinOctober,intheyear1805,asasmallvesseloftheTraethwasupontheMenai,sailingveryslowly,theweatherbeingverycalm,thepeopleonboardsawastrangecreaturelikeanimmensewormswimmingafterthem。Itsoonovertookthem,climbedonboardthroughthetiller—hole,andcoileditselfonthedeckunderthemast—thepeopleatfirstweredreadfullyfrightened,buttakingcouragetheyattackeditwithanoaranddroveitoverboard;itfollowedthevesselforsometime,butabreezespringinguptheylostsightofit。"
  "Andhowdidyoulearnthis?"saidthelastwhohadaddressedme。
  "Ireadthestory,"saidI,"inapureWelshbookcalledtheGreal。"
  "Inowrememberhearingthesamething,"saidanoldman,"whenI
  wasaboy;ithadsliptoutofmymemory,butnowIrememberallaboutit。TheshipwascalledtheROBERTELLIS。Areyouoftheseparts,gentleman?"
  "No,"saidI,"Iamnotoftheseparts。"
  "ThenyouareofSouthWales—indeedyourWelshisverydifferentfromours。"
  "IamnotofSouthWales,"saidI,"Iamtheseednotofthesea—
  snakebutofthecoilingserpent,forsooneoftheoldWelshpoetscalledtheSaxons。"
  "ButhowdidyoulearnWelsh?"saidtheoldman。
  "Ilearneditbythegrammar,"saidI,"alongtimeago。"
  "Ah,youlearntitbythegrammar,"saidtheoldman;"thataccountsforyourWelshbeingdifferentfromours。WedidnotlearnourWelshbythegrammar—yourWelshisdifferentfromours,andofcoursebetter,beingtheWelshofthegrammar。Ah,itisafinethingtobeagrammarian。"
  "Yes,itisafinethingtobeagrammarian,"criedtherestofthecompany,andIobservedthateverybodynowregardedmewithakindofrespect。
  Ajugofalewhichthehostesshadbroughtmehadbeenstandingbeforemesometime。Inowtasteditandfounditverygood。
  Whilstdespatchingit,IaskedvariousquestionsabouttheoldDanes,thereasonwhytheplacewascalledtheportoftheNorwegian,andaboutitstrade。ThegoodfolksknewnothingabouttheoldDanes,andaslittleastothereasonofitsbeingcalledtheportoftheNorwegian—buttheysaidthatbesidesthatnameitborethatofMelinHeli,orthemillofthesaltpool,andthatslateswereexportedfromthence,whichcamefromquarriescloseby。
  Havingfinishedmyale,IbadethecompanyadieuandquittedPortDynNorwig,oneofthemostthoroughlyWelshplacesIhadseen,forduringthewholetimeIwasinit,IheardnowordsofEnglishuttered,exceptthetwoorthreespokenbymyself。InaboutanhourIreachedCaernarvon。
  TheroadfromBangortoCaernarvonisverygoodandthesceneryinteresting—finehillsborderitontheleft,orsouth—east,andontherightatsomedistanceistheMenaiwithAngleseybeyondit。
  NotfarfromCaernarvonasandbankcommences,extendingformilesuptheMenai,towardsBangor,anddividingthestraitintotwo。
  IwenttotheCastleInnwhichfrontsthesquareormarket—place,andbeingshownintoaroomorderedsomebrandy—and—water,andsatdown。Twoyoungmenwereseatedintheroom。Ispoketothemandreceivedcivilanswers,atwhichIwasratherastonished,asI
  foundbythetoneoftheirvoicesthattheywereEnglish。Theairofonewasfarsuperiortothatoftheother,andwithhimIwassooninconversation。Inthecourseofdiscourseheinformedmethatbeingamartyrtoill—healthhehadcomefromLondontoWales,hopingthatchangeofair,andexerciseontheWelshhills,wouldaffordhimrelief,andthathisfriendhadbeenkindenoughtoaccompanyhim。ThathehadbeenaboutthreeweeksinWales,hadtakenalltheexercisethathecould,butthathewasstillveryunwell,sleptlittleandhadnoappetite。Itoldhimnottobediscouraged,buttoproceedinthecoursewhichhehadadoptedtilltheendofsummer,bywhichtimeIthoughtitveryprobablethathewouldberestoredtohishealth,ashewasstillyoung。Atthesewordsofmineabeamofhopebrightenedhiscountenance,andhesaidthathehadnootherwishthantoregainhishealth,andthatifhedidheshouldbethehappiestofmen。TheintensewishofthepooryoungmanforhealthcausedmetothinkhowinsensibleI
  hadhithertobeentothepossessionofthegreatestofallterrestrialblessings。Ihadalwayshadthehealthofanelephant,butIneverrememberedtohavebeensensibletothemagnitudeoftheblessingorintheslightestdegreegratefultoGodwhogaveit。IshudderedtothinkhowIshouldfeelifsuddenlydeprivedofmyhealth。Farworse,nodoubt,thanthatpoorinvalid。Hewasyoung,andinyouththereishope—butIwasnolongeryoung。Atlast,however,IthoughtthatifGodtookawaymyhealthHemightsofaraltermymindthatImightbehappyevenwithouthealth,ortheprospectofit;andthatreflectionmademequitecomfortable。
  CHAPTERXLIV
  NationalSchool—TheYoungPreacher—PontBettws—SpanishWords—TwoTongues,TwoFaces—TheElephant’sSnout—LlynCwellyn—
  TheSnowdonRanger—MyHouse—CastellyCidwm—DescenttoBethGelert。
  ITmightbeaboutthreeo’clockintheafternoonwhenIleftCaernarvonforBethGelert,distantaboutthirteenmiles。I
  journeyedthroughabeautifulcountryofhillanddale,woodsandmeadows,thewholegildedbyabundanceofsunshine。AfterwalkingaboutanhourwithoutintermissionIreachedavillage,andaskedamanthenameofit。
  "Llan—something,"hereplied。