Buthefoundinhispreoccupationhehadtakenthewrongturninginthepath，andthathewasnowclosetothewallwhichboundedandoverlookedthehighway。Hereasingularspectaclepresenteditself。Acyclistcoveredwithdustwasseatedinthemiddleoftheroad，tryingtorestorecirculationtohisbruisedandinjuredlegbychafingitwithhishands，whilebesidehimlayhisdamagedbicycle。Hehadevidentlymetwithanaccident。InaninstantPaulhadclimbedthewallandwasathisside。
　　"CanIofferyouanyassistance？"heaskedeagerly。
　　"Thanks——no！I'vecomeabeastlycropperoversomethingorotheronthisroad，andI'monlybruised，thoughthemachinehassufferedworse，"repliedthestranger，inafresh，cheeryvoice。Hewasagood-lookingfellowofaboutPaul'sownage，andtheyoungAmerican'sheartwentouttowardshim。
　　"Howdidithappen？"askedPaul。
　　"That'swhatpuzzlesme，"saidthestranger。"Iwasgettingoutofthewayofaqueeroldchapintheroad，andIranoversomethingthatseemedonlyanoldscrollofpaper；buttheshockwassogreatthatIwasthrown，andIfancyIwasforafewmomentsunconscious。
　　YetIcannotseeanyotherobstructionintheroad，andthere'sonlythatbitofpaper。"Hepointedtothepaper，——ahalf-crushedrollofordinaryfoolscap，showingthemarkofthebicycleuponit。
　　AstrangeideacameintoPaul'smind。Hepickedupthepaperandexamineditclosely。Besidesthemarkalreadyindicated，itshowedtwosharpcreasesaboutnineincheslong，andanotherexactlyatthepointoftheimpactofthebicycle。Takingafoldedtwo-footrulefromhispocket，hecarefullymeasuredtheseparallelcreasesandmadeanexhaustivegeometricalcalculationwithhispencilonthepaper。Thestrangerwatchedhimwithawedandadmiringinterest。Rising，heagaincarefullyexaminedtheroad，andwasfinallyrewardedbythediscoveryofasharpindentationinthedust，which，onmeasurementandcomparisonwiththecreasesinthepaperandthecalculationshehadjustmade，provedtobeidentical。
　　"Therewasasolidbodyinthatpaper，"saidPaulquietly；"aparallelogramexactlynineincheslongandthreewide。"
　　"Isay！you'rewonderfullyclever，don'tyouknow，"saidthestranger，withunaffectedwonder。"Iseeitall——abrick。"
　　Paulsmiledgentlyandshookhishead。"Thatisthehastyinferenceofaninexperiencedobserver。YouwillobserveatthepointofimpactofyourwheeltheparallelcreaseisCURVED，asfromtheyieldingoftheresistingsubstances，andnotBROKEN，asitwouldbebythecrumblingofabrick。"
　　"Isay，you'reawfullydetective，don'tyouknow！justlikethatfellow——what'shisname？"saidthestrangeradmiringly。
　　ThewordsrecalledPaultohimself。Whywasheactinglikeadetective？andwhatwasheseekingtodiscover？Nevertheless，hefeltimpelledtocontinue。"Andthatqueeroldchapwhomyoumet——
　　whydidn'thehelpyou？"
　　"BecauseIpassedhimbeforeIranintothe——theparallelogram，andIsupposehedidn'tknowwhathappenedbehindhim？"
　　"Didhehaveanythinginhishand？"
　　"Can'tsay。"
　　"Andyousayyouwereunconsciousafterwards？"
　　"Yes！"
　　"Longenoughfortheculprittoremovetheprincipalevidenceofhiscrime？"
　　"Come！Isay，reallyyouare——youknowyouare！"
　　"Haveyouanysecretenemy？"
　　"No。"
　　"Andyoudon'tknowMr。Bunker，themanwhoownsthisvastestate？"
　　"Notatall。I'mfromUpperTooting。"
　　"Goodafternoon，"saidPaulabruptly，andturnedaway。
　　Itstruckhimafterwardsthathisactionmighthaveseemeduncivil，andeveninhuman，tothebruisedcyclist，whocouldhardlywalk。
　　Butitwasgettinglate，andhewasstillfarfromtheHall，which，oddlyenough，seemedtobenolongervisiblefromtheroad。Hewanderedonforsometime，halfconvincedthathehadpassedthelodgegates，yethopingtofindsomeotherentrancetothedomain。
　　Duskwasfalling；theroundedoutlinesoftheparktreesbeyondthewallweresolidmassesofshadow。Thefullmoon，presentlyrising，restoredthemagaintosymmetry，andatlasthe，tohisrelief，cameuponthemassivegateway。Twolionsrampedinstoneonthesidepillars。Hethoughtitstrangethathehadnotnoticedthegatewayonhispreviousentrance，butherememberedthathewasfullypreoccupiedwiththeadvancingfigureofhisuncle。InafewminutestheHallitselfappeared，andhereagainhewassurprisedthathehadoverlookedbeforeitsnobleproportionsandpicturesqueoutline。Itsbroadterraces，dazzlinglywhiteinthemoonlight；
　　itslonglineofmullionedwindows，suffusedwithawarmredglowfromwithin，madeitlooklikepartofawintrylandscape——andsuggestedaChristmascard。Thevenerableivythathidtheravagestimehadmadeinitswallslookedlikeblackcarving。Hisheartswelledwithstrangeemotionsashegazedathisancestralhall。
　　Howmanyofhisbloodhadlivedanddiedthere；howmanyhadgoneforthfromthatgreatporchtodistantlands！Hetriedtothinkofhisfather——alittlechild——peepingbetweenthebalustradesofthatterrace。Hetriedtothinkofit，andperhapswouldhavesucceededhaditnotoccurredtohimthatitwasaknownfactthathisunclehadboughttheestateandhouseofanimpoverishednoblemanonlytheyearbefore。Yet——hecouldnottellwhy——heseemedtofeelhigherandnoblerforthattrial。
　　Theterracewasdeserted，andsoquietthatasheascendedtoithisfootstepsseemedtoechofromthewalls。Whenhereachedtheportals，thegreatoakendoorswungnoiselesslyonitshinges——
　　openedbysomeunseenbutwaitingservitor——andadmittedhimtoaloftyhall，darkwithhangingsandfamilyportraits，butwarmedbyaredcarpetthewholelengthofitsstonefloor。Foramomenthewaitedfortheservanttoshowhimtothedrawing-roomorhisuncle'sstudy。Butnooneappeared。BelievingthistobeapartofthecharacteristicsimplicityoftheQuakerhousehold，heboldlyenteredthefirstdoor，andfoundhimselfinabrilliantlylitandperfectlyemptydrawing-room。Thesameexperiencemethimwiththeotherroomsonthatfloor——thedining-roomdisplayinganalreadyset，exquisitelyfurnishedanddecoratedtable，withchairsfortwentyguests！Hemechanicallyascendedthewideoakenstaircasethatledtothecorridorofbedroomsaboveacentralsalon。Herehefoundonlythesamesolitude。Bedroomdoorsyieldedtohistouch，onlytoshowthesamebrilliantlylitvacancy。HepresentlycameupononeroomwhichseemedtogiveunmistakablesignsofHIS
　　OWNoccupancy。Surelytherestoodhisowndressing-caseonthetable！andhisowneveningclothescarefullylaidoutonanother，asiffreshfromavalet'shands。Hesteppedhastilyintothecorridor——therewasnoonethere；herangthebell——therewasnoresponse！Buthenoticedthattherewasajugofhotwaterinhisbasin，andhebegandressingmechanically。
　　Therewaslittledoubtthathewasinahauntedhouse，butthisdidnotparticularlydisturbhim。Indeed，hefoundhimselfwonderingifitcouldbelogicallycalledahauntedhouse——unlesshehimselfwashauntingit，forthereseemedtobenootherthere。Perhapstheapparitionswouldcomelater，whenhewasdressed。Clearlyitwasnothisuncle'shouse——andyet，ashehadneverbeeninsidehisuncle'shouse，hereflectedthatheoughtnottobepositive。
　　Hefinisheddressingandsatdowninanarmchairwithakindofthoughtfulexpectancy。Butpresentlyhiscuriositybecameimpatientofthesilenceandmystery，andheventuredoncemoretoexplorethehouse。Openinghisbedroomdoor，hefoundhimselfagainuponthedesertedcorridor，butthistimehecoulddistinctlyhearabuzzofvoicesfromthedrawing-roombelow。Assuredthathewasnearasolutionofthemystery，herapidlydescendedthebroadstaircaseandmadehiswaytotheopendoorofthedrawing-room。
　　Butalthoughthesoundofvoicesincreasedasheadvanced，whenheenteredtheroom，tohisutterastonishment，itwasasemptyasbefore。
　　Yet，inspiteofhisbewildermentandconfusion，hewasabletofollowoneofthevoices，which，initspeculiardistinctnessandhalf-perfunctorytone，heconcludedmustbelongtothehostoftheinvisibleassembly。
　　"Ah，"saidthevoice，greetingsomeunseenvisitor，"sogladyouhavecome。Afraidyourengagementsjustnowwouldkeepyouaway。"
　　Thenthevoicedroppedtoalowerandmoreconfidentialtone。"YoumusttakedownLadyDartman，butyouwillhaveMissMorecamp——aclevergirl——ontheothersideofyou。Ah，SirGeorge！Sogoodofyoutocome。AllwellatthePriory？Sogladtohearit。"（Lowerandmoreconfidentially。）"YouknowMrs。Monkston。You'llsitbyher。Alittlecutupbyherhusbandlosinghisseat。Trytoamuseher。"
　　Emboldenedbydesperation，Paulturnedinthedirectionofthevoice。"IamPaulBunker，"hesaidhesitatingly。"I'mafraidyou'llthinkmeintrusive，butIwaslookingformyuncle，and"——
　　"Intrusive，mydearboy！Thesonofmynearneighborinthecountryintrusive？Really，now，Ilikethat！Grace！"（thevoiceturnedinanotherdirection）"hereistheAmericannephewofourneighborBunkeratWiddlestone，whothinksheis'astranger。'"
　　"WeallknewofyourexpectedarrivalatWiddlestone——itwassogoodofyoutowaiveceremonyandjoinus，"saidawell-bredfemininevoice，whichPaulatonceassumedtobelongtothehostess。"ButImustfindsomeoneforyourdinnerpartner。Mary"
　　（herehervoicewaslikewiseturnedaway），"thisisMr。Bunker，thenephewofanoldfriendandneighborinUpshire；"（thevoiceagainturnedtohim），"youwilltakeMissMorecampin。Mydear"（onceagainaverted），"ImustfindsomeoneelsetoconsolepoordearLordBillingtreewith。"Herethehostess'svoicewasdrownedbyfresharrivals。
　　Bewilderedandconfusedashewas，standinginthisemptydesertofadrawing-room，yetencompassedoneverysidebyhumanvoices，somarvelouswasthepowerofsuggestion，heseemedtoalmostfeeltheimpactoftheinvisiblecrowd。Hewastryingdesperatelytorealizehissituationwhenasingularlyfascinatingvoiceathiselbowunexpectedlyassistedhim。Itwasevidentlyhisdinnerpartner。
　　"Isupposeyoumustbetiredafteryourjourney。Whendidyouarrive？"
　　"Onlyafewhoursago，"saidPaul。
　　"AndIdaresayyouhaven'tsleptsinceyouarrived。Onedoesn'tonthepassage，youknow；thetwentyhourspasssoquickly，andtheexperienceissoexciting——toUSatleast。ButIsupposeasanAmericanyouareusedtoit。"
　　Paulgasped。Hehadpassivelyacceptedthebodilessconversation，becauseitwasatleastintelligible！ButNOW！Washegoingmad？
　　Sheevidentlynoticedhissilence。"Nevermind，"shecontinued，"youcantellmeallaboutitatdinner。DoyouknowIalwaysthinkthatthissortofthing——whatwe'redoingnow，——thisridiculousformalityofreception，——whichIsupposeisafterallonlyaconcessiontoourEnglishforceofhabit，——isabsurd！Weoughttopass，asitwere，directlyfromourhousestothedinner-
　　table。Itsavestime。"
　　"Yes——no——thatis——I'mafraidIdon'tfollowyou，"stammeredPaul。
　　Therewasaslightpoutinhervoiceasshereplied："Nomatternow——wemustfollowthem——forourhostismovingoffwithLadyBillingtree，andit'sourturnnow。"
　　Sogreatwastheillusionthathefoundhimselfmechanicallyofferinghisarmashemovedthroughtheemptyroomtowardsthedoor。Thenhedescendedthestaircasewithoutanotherword，preceded，however，bythesoundofhishost'svoice。Followingthisasablindmanmight，heenteredthedining-room，whichtohisdiscomfiturewasasemptyasthesalonabove。Stillfollowingthehost'svoice，hedroppedintoachairbeforetheemptytable，wonderingwhatvariationoftheBarmecidefeastwasinstoreforhim。Yetthehumofvoicesfromthevacantchairsaroundtheboardsostronglyimpressedhimthathecouldalmostbelievethathewasactuallyatdinner。
　　"Areyouseated？"askedthecharmingvoiceathisside。
　　"Yes，"alittlewonderingly，ashiswastheonlyseatvisiblyoccupied。
　　"Iamsogladthatthissillyceremonyisover。Bytheway，whereareyou？"
　　Paulwouldhavelikedtoanswer，"Lordonlyknows！"buthereflectedthatitmightnotsoundpolite。"WhereamI？"hefeeblyrepeated。
　　"Yes；whereareyoudining？"
　　Itseemedacoolquestionunderthecircumstances，butheansweredpromptly，——
　　"Withyou。"
　　"Ofcourse，"saidthecharmingvoice；"butwhereareyoueatingyourdinner？"
　　Consideringthathewasnoteatinganything，Paulthoughtthiscoolerstill。Butheansweredbriefly，"InUpshire。"
　　"Oh！Atyouruncle's？"
　　"No，"saidPaulbluntly；"inthenexthouse。"
　　"Why，that'sSirWilliam's——ourhost's——andheandhisfamilyarehereinLondon。Youarejoking。"
　　"Listen！"saidPauldesperately。Theninavoiceunconsciouslyloweredhehurriedlytoldherwherehewas——howhecamethere——theemptyhouse——theviewlesscompany！Tohissurprisetheonlyresponsewasamusicallittlelaugh。Butthenextmomenthervoicerosehigherwithanunmistakableconcerninit，apparentlyaddressingtheirinvisiblehost。
　　"Oh，SirWilliam，onlythinkhowdreadful。Here'spoorMr。Bunker，aloneinanemptyhouse，whichhehasmistakenforhisuncle's——andwithoutanydinner！"
　　"Really；dear，dear！Howprovoking！ButhowdoeshehappentobeWITHUS？James，howisthis？"
　　"Ifyouplease，SirWilliam，"saidaservant'srespectfulvoice，"Widdlestoneisinthecircuitandisswitchedonwiththeothers。
　　Weheardthatagentleman'sluggagehadarrivedatWiddlestone，andwetelegraphedfortheroomstobemadeready，thinkingwe'dhaveherladyship'sorderslater。"
　　AsinglegleamofintelligenceflasheduponPaul。Hisluggage——
　　yes，hadbeensentfromthestationtothewronghouse，andhehadunwittinglyfollowed。Butthesevoices！whencedidtheycome？Andwherewastheactualdinneratwhichhishostwaspresiding？Itclearlywasnotatthisemptytable。
　　"Seethathehaseverythinghewantsatonce，"saidSirWilliam；
　　"theremustbesomeonethere。"ThenhisvoiceturnedinthedirectionofPaulagain，andhesaidlaughingly，"Possessyoursoulandappetiteinpatienceforamoment，Mr。Bunker；youwillbeonlyacoursebehindus。Butweareluckyinhavingyourcompany——evenatyourowndiscomfort。"
　　Stillmorebewildered，Paulturnedtohisinvisiblepartner。"MayIaskwhereYOUaredining？"
　　"Certainly；athomeinCurzonStreet，"returnedtheprettyvoice。
　　"Itwasrainingso，Ididnotgoout。"
　　"And——LordBillington？"falteredPaul。
　　"Oh，he'sinScotland——athisownplace。"
　　"Then，infact，nobodyisdininghereatall，"saidPauldesperately。
　　Therewasaslightpause，andthenthevoiceresponded，withatouchofstartledsuggestioninit："Goodheavens，Mr。Bunker！Isitpossibleyoudon'tknowwe'rediningbytelephone？"
　　"Bywhat？"
　　"Telephone。Yes。We'reatelephonicdinner-party。Wearedininginourownhouses；but，beingallfriends，we'reswitchedontoeachother，andconverseexactlyaswewouldattable。Itsavesagreattroubleandexpense，foranyoneofuscangivetheparty，andthepoorestcanequalthemostextravagant。Peoplewhoareobligedtodietcanpartakeoftheirownslopsathome，andyetminglewiththegourmetswithoutawkwardnessorthenecessityofapology。Wearesparedthespectacle，atleast，ofthosewhoeatanddrinktoomuch。Wecanswitchoffaboreatonce。Wecanretirewhenwearefatigued，withoutleavingablankspacebeforetheothers。Andallthiswithoutsayinganythingofthehigherspiritualandintellectualeffect——freedfrommaterialgrossnessofappetiteandshow——whichthedinnerpartythusattains。Butyouaresurelyjoking！You，anAmerican，andnotknowit！Why，itcomesfromBoston。Haven'tyoureadthatbook，'JumpingaCentury'？
　　It'sbyanAmerican。"
　　AstrangeilluminationcameuponPaul。Wherehadheheardsomethinglikethisbefore？Butatthesamemomenthisthoughtsweredivertedbythematerialentranceofafootman，bearingasilversalverwithhisdinner。Itwaspartofhissingularexperiencethatthevisibleentranceofthisreal，commonplacemortal——theonlyonehehadseen——inthemidstofthisvoicelesssolitudewasdistinctlyunreal，andhadalltheeffectofanapparition。Hedistrusteditandthedishesbeforehim。Buthislivelypartner'svoicewasnowaddressinganunseenoccupantofthenextchair。Hadshegottiredofhisignorance，orwasitfemininetacttoenablehimtoeatsomething？Heacceptedthelatterhypothesis，andtriedtoeat。Buthefelthimselffollowingthefascinatingvoiceinallthecharmofitsyouthfulandspiritualinflections。Takingadvantageofitsmomentarysilence，hesaidgently，——
　　"Iconfessmyignorance，andamwillingtoadmitallyouclaimforthiswonderfulinvention。Butdoyouthinkitcompensatesforthelossoftheindividualperson？Takemyowncase——ifyouwillnotthinkmepersonal。Ihaveneverhadthepleasureofseeingyou；doyoubelievethatIamcontentwithonlythatsuggestionofyourpersonalitywhichthesatisfactionofhearingyourvoiceaffordsme？"
　　Therewasapause，andthenaverymischievousringinthevoicethatreplied："Itcertainlyisapersonalquestion，anditisanotherblessingofthisinventionthatyou'llneverknowwhetherI
　　amblushingornot；butIforgiveyou，forIneverbeforespoketoanyoneIhadneverseen——andIsupposeit'sconfusion。Butdoyoureallythinkyouwouldknowme——theREALone——anybetter？Itistherealpersonwhothinksandspeaks，nottheoutwardsemblancethatwesee，whichveryoftenunfairlyeitherattractsorrepelsus？WecanalwaysSHOWourselvesatourbest，butwemust，atlast，revealourtruecolorsthroughourthoughtsandspeech。
　　Isn'titbettertobeginwiththerealthingfirst？"
　　"Ihope，atleast，tohavetheprivilegeofjudgingbymyself，"
　　saidPaulgallantly。"Youwillnotbesocruelasnottoletmeseeyouelsewhere，otherwiseIshallfeelasifIwereinsomedream，andwillcertainlybeopposedtoyourpreferenceforrealities。"
　　"Iamnotcertainifthedreamwouldnotbemoreinterestingtoyou，"saidthevoicelaughingly。"ButIthinkyourhostessisalreadysaying'good-by。'Youknoweverybodygoesatonceatthiskindofparty；theladiesdon'tretirefirst，andthegentlemenjointhemafterwards。Inanothermomentwe'llALLbeswitchedoff；
　　butSirWilliamwantsmetotellyouthathiscoachmanwilldriveyoutoyouruncle's，unlessyouprefertotryandmakeyourselfcomfortableforthenighthere。Good-by！"
　　Thevoicesaroundhimseemedtogrowfainter，andthenutterlycease。Thelightssuddenlyleapedup，wentout，andlefthimincompletedarkness。Heattemptedtorise，butindoingsooversetthedishesbeforehim，whichslidtothefloor。Acoldairseemedtoblowacrosshisfeet。The"good-by"wasstillringinginhisearsashestraightenedhimselftofindhewasinhisrailwaycarriage，whosedoorhadjustbeenopenedforayoungladywhowasenteringthecompartmentfromawaysidestation。"Good-by，"sherepeatedtothefriendwhowasseeingheroff。TheWriterofStorieshurriedlystraightenedhimself，gatheredupthemagazinesandpapersthathadfallenfromhislap，andglancedatthestationwalls。Theoldillustrationsglancedbackathim！Helookedathiswatch；hehadbeenasleepjusttenminutes！
　　BOHEMIANDAYSINSANFRANCISCO
　　ItisbutjusttotherespectablememoryofSanFranciscothatinthesevagrantrecollectionsIshoulddeprecateatonceanysuggestionthatthelevityofmytitledescribeditsdominanttoneatanyperiodofmyearlyexperiences。Onthecontrary，itwasasingularfactthatwhiletherestofCaliforniawasswayedbyaneasy，carelessunconventionalism，orsweptoverbywavesofemotionandsentiment，SanFranciscopreservedanintenselymaterialandpracticalattitude，andevenacertainausteremorality。Idonot，ofcourse，alludetothebriefdaysof'49，whenitwasastragglingbeachofhutsandstrandedhulks，buttotheearlierstagesofitsdevelopmentintothemetropolisofCalifornia。Itsfirsttotteringstepsinthatdirectionweremarkedbyadistinctgravityanddecorum。Evenduringtheperiodwhentherevolversettledsmallprivatedifficulties，andVigilanceCommitteesadjudicatedlargerpublicones，anunmistakableseriousnessandrespectabilitywastherulingsignofitsgoverningclass。ItwasnotimprobablethatunderthereignoftheCommitteethelawlessandviciousclassweremoreappalledbythemoralspectacleofseveralthousandblack-coated，serious-mindedbusinessmeninembattledprocessionthanbymereforceofarms，andone"suspect"——
　　aprize-fighter——isknowntohavecommittedsuicideinhiscellafterconfrontationwithhisgraveandpassionlessshopkeepingjudges。EventhatpeculiarqualityofCalifornianhumorwhichwasapttomitigatetheextravagancesoftherevolverandtheuncertaintiesofpokerhadnoplaceinthedecorousandresponsibleutteranceofSanFrancisco。Thepresswassober，materialistic，practical——whenitwasnotseverelyadmonitoryofexistingevil；
　　thefewsmallerpapersthatindulgedinlevitywereconsideredlibelousandimproper。FancywasdisplacedbyheavyarticlesontherevenuesoftheStateandinducementstotheinvestmentofcapital。Localnewswasunderanimpliedcensorshipwhichsuppressedanythingthatmighttendtodiscouragetimidorcautiouscapital。Episodesofromanticlawlessnessorpatheticincidentsofmininglifewerecarefullyedited——withthecommentthatthesethingsbelongedtothepast，andthatlifeandpropertywerenow"assafeinSanFranciscoasinNewYorkorLondon。"
　　Wonder-lovingvisitorsinquestofscenescharacteristicofthecivilizationwerecoldlysnubbedwiththisassurance。Fires，floods，andevenseismicconvulsionsweresubjectedtoalikegrimlymaterialisticoptimism。Ihaveavividrecollectionofaponderouseditorialononeofthesevererearthquakes，inwhichitwasassertedthatonlytheUNEXPECTEDNESSoftheonsetpreventedSanFranciscofrommeetingitinawaythatwouldbedeterrentofallfutureattacks。Theunconsciousnessofthehumorwasonlyequaledbythegravitywithwhichitwasreceivedbythewholebusinesscommunity。Strangelyenough，thisgravematerialismflourishedsidebysidewith——andwasevensustainedby——anarrowreligiousstrictnessmorecharacteristicofthePilgrimFathersofapastcenturythantheWesternpioneersofthepresent。SanFranciscowasearlyacityofchurchesandchurchorganizationstowhichtheleadingmenandmerchantsbelonged。ThelaxSundaysofthedyingSpanishraceseemedonlytoprovokearevivaloftherigorsofthePuritanSabbath。WiththeSpaniardandhisSundayafternoonbullfightscarcelyanhourdistant，theSanFranciscopulpitthunderedagainstSundaypicnics。Oneofthepopularpreachers，declaiminguponthepracticeofSundaydinner-giving，averredthatwhenhesawaguestinhisbestSundayclothesstandingshamelesslyuponthedoorstepofhishost，hefeltlikeseizinghimbytheshoulderanddragginghimfromthatthresholdofperdition。
　　Againsttheactualheathenthefeelingwasevenstronger，andreacheditsclimaxoneSundaywhenaChinamanwasstonedtodeathbyacrowdofchildrenreturningfromSunday-school。Iamofferingtheseexampleswithnoethicalpurpose，butmerelytoindicateasingularcontradictoryconditionwhichIdonotthinkwritersofearlyCalifornianhistoryhavefairlyrecorded。Itisnotmyprovincetosuggestanytheoryfortheseappallingexceptionstotheusualgood-humoredlawlessnessandextravaganceoftherestoftheState。Theymayhavebeenessentialagenciestothegrowthandevolutionofthecity。Theywereundoubtedlysincere。TheimpressionsIproposetogiveofcertainscenesandincidentsofmyearlyexperiencemust，therefore，betakenaspurelypersonalandBohemian，andtheirselectionasequallyindividualandvagrant。I
　　amwritingofwhatinterestedmeatthetime，thoughnotperhapsofwhatwasmoregenerallycharacteristicofSanFrancisco。
　　Ihadbeenthereaweek——anidleweek，spentinlistlessoutlookforemployment；afullweekinmyeagerabsorptionofthestrangelifearoundmeandaphotographicsensitivenesstocertainscenesandincidentsofthosedays，whichstartoutofmymemoryto-dayasfreshlyasthedaytheyimpressedme。
　　Oneoftheserecollectionsisof"steamernight，"asitwascalled，——thenightof"steamerday，"——precedingthedepartureofthemailsteamshipwiththemailsfor"home。"Indeed，atthattimeSanFranciscomaybesaidtohavelivedfromsteamerdaytosteamerday；billsweremadedueonthatday，interestcomputedtothatperiod，andaccountssettled。Thenextdaywastheturningofanewleaf：anotheressaytofortune，anotherinspirationofenergy。
　　Sorecognizedwasthefactthatevenordinarychangesofcondition，socialanddomestic，wereputasideuntilAFTERsteamerday。"I'llseewhatIcandoafternextsteamerday"wasthecommoncautiousorhopefulformula。Itwasthe"Saturdaynight"ofmanyawage-
　　earner——andtohimanightoffestivity。Thethoroughfareswereanimatedandcrowded；thesaloonsandtheatresfull。IcanrecallmyselfatsuchtimeswanderingalongtheCityFront，asthebusinesspartofSanFranciscowasthenknown。Herethelightswereburningallnight，thefirststreaksofdawnfindingthemerchantsstillattheircounting-housedesks。Irememberthedimlinesofwarehousesliningtheinsecurewharvesofrottenpiles，halffilledin——thathadceasedtobewharves，buthadnotyetbecomestreets，——theirtreacherousyawningdepths，withtheuncertaingleamoftarlikemudbelow，attimesstillvocalwiththelapandgurgleofthetide。Iremembertheweirdstoriesofdisappearingmenfoundafterwardimbeddedintheoozeinwhichtheyhadfallenandgaspedtheirlifeaway。Irememberthetwoorthreeships，stillleftstandingwheretheywerebeachedayearortwobefore，builtinbetweenwarehouses，theirbowsprojectingintotheroadway。Therewasthedignityoftheseaanditsboundlessfreedomintheirbeautifulcurves，whichtheabuttinghousescouldnotdestroy，andevensomethingofthesea'slonelinessinthefar-
　　spacedportsandcabinwindowslitupbythelampsoftheprosaiclandsmenwhopliedtheirtradesbehindthem。Oneoftheseships，transformedintoahotel，retaineditsname，theNiantic，andpartofitscharacteristicinteriorunchanged。Iremembertheseships'
　　oldtenants——therats——whohadincreasedandmultipliedtosuchanextentthatatnighttheyfearlesslycrossedthewayfarer'spathateveryturn，andeveninvadedthegildedsaloonsofMontgomeryStreet。IntheNiantictheirpit-a-patwasmetoneverystaircase，anditwassaidthatsometimesinanexcessofsociabilitytheyaccompaniedthetravelertohisroom。Intheearly"cloth-and-
　　papered"houses——socalledbecausetheceilingswerenotplastered，butsimplycoveredbystretchedandwhitewashedcloth——theirscamperingswereplainlyindicatedinzigzagmovementsofthesaggingcloth，ortheybecameactuallyvisiblebyfinallydroppingthroughtheholestheyhadworninit！Irememberthehousewhosefoundationsweremadeofboxesofplugtobacco——partofajettisonedcargo——usedinsteadofmoreexpensivelumber；andtheadjacentwarehousewherethetrunksoftheearlyandforgotten"forty-niners"werestored，and——neverclaimedbytheirdeadormissingowners——werefinallysoldatauction。Irememberthestrongbreathoftheseaoverall，andtheconstantonsetofthetradewindswhichhelpedtodisinfectthedepositofdirtandgrime，decayandwreckage，whichwerestirredupinthelaterevolutionsofthecity。
　　OrIrecall，withthesamesenseofyouthfulsatisfactionandunabatedwonder，mywanderingsthroughtheSpanishQuarter，wherethreecenturiesofquaintcustoms，speech，anddresswerestillpreserved；wheretheproverbsofSanchoPanzawerestillspokeninthelanguageofCervantes，andthehigh-flownillusionsoftheLaManchianknightstillapartoftheSpanishCalifornianhidalgo'sdream。Irecallthemoremodern"Greaser，"orMexican——hisindexfingersteepedincigarettestains；hisvelvetjacketandhiscrimsonsash；themany-flouncedskirtandlacemantaofhiswomen，andtheircaressingintonations——theonemusicalutteranceofthewholehard-voicedcity。IsupposeIhadaboy'sdigestionandbluntnessoftasteinthosedays，forthecombinedodoroftobacco，burnedpaper，andgarlic，whichmarkedthatmelodiousbreath，didnotaffectme。
　　PerhapsfrommyPuritantrainingIexperiencedamorefearfuljoyinthegamblingsaloons。Theywerethelargestandmostcomfortable，evenastheywerethemostexpensivelydecoratedroomsinSanFrancisco。HereagainthegravityanddecorumwhichIhavealreadyalludedtowerepresentatthatearlierperiod——thoughperhapsfromconcentrationofanotherkind。PeoplestakedandlosttheirlastdollarwithacalmsolemnityandaresignationthatwasalmostChristian。Theoaths，exclamations，andfeverishinterruptionswhichoftencharacterizedmoredignifiedassemblieswereabsenthere。Therewasnoroomforthelesservices；therewaslittleornodrunkenness；thegaudilydressedandpaintedwomenwhopresidedoverthewheelsoffortuneorperformedontheharpandpianoattractednoattentionfromthoseasceticplayers。Themanwhohadwontenthousanddollarsandthemanwhohadlosteverythingrosefromthetablewithequalsilenceandimperturbability。Ineverwitnessedanytragicsequeltothoselosses；Ineverheardofanysuicideonaccountofthem。NeithercanIrecallanyquarrelormurderdirectlyattributabletothiskindofgambling。Itmustberememberedthatthesepublicgameswerechieflyrougeetnoir，monte，faro，orroulette，inwhichtheantagonistwasFate，Chance，Method，ortheimpersonal"bank，"whichwassupposedtorepresentthemall；therewasnoindividualoppositionorrivalry；nobodychallengedthedecisionofthe"croupier，"ordealer。
　　Irememberaconversationatthedoorofonesaloonwhichwasascharacteristicforitsbrevityasitwasatypeoftheprevailingstoicism。"Hello！"saidadepartingminer，asherecognizedabrotherminercomingin，"whendidyoucomedown？""Thismorning，"
　　wasthereply。"Madeastrikeonthebar？"suggestedthefirstspeaker。"Youbet！"saidtheother，andpassedin。Ichancedanhourlatertobeatthesameplaceastheymetagain——theirrelativepositionschanged。"Hello！Wharnow？"saidtheincomer。
　　"Backtothebar。""Cleanedout？""Youbet！"Notawordmoreexplainedacommonsituation。
　　Myfirstyouthfulexperienceatthosetableswasanaccidentalone。
　　Iwaswatchingrouletteoneevening，intenselyabsorbedinthemeremovementoftheplayers。Eithertheyweresopreoccupiedwiththegame，orIwasreallyolderlookingthanmyactualyears，butabystanderlaidhishandfamiliarlyonmyshoulder，andsaid，astoanordinaryhabitue，"Efyou'renotchippin'inyourself，pardner，s'poseyougiveMEashow。"NowIhonestlybelievethatuptothatmomentIhadnointention，norevenadesire，totrymyownfortune。ButintheembarrassmentofthesuddenaddressIputmyhandinmypocket，drewoutacoin，andlaidit，withanattemptatcarelessness，butavividconsciousnessthatIwasblushing，uponavacantnumber。TomyhorrorIsawthatIhadputdownalargecoin——thebulkofmypossessions！Ididnotflinch，however；I
　　thinkanyboywhoreadsthiswillunderstandmyfeeling；itwasnotonlymycoinbutmymanhoodatstake。Igazedwithamiserableshowofindifferenceattheplayers，atthechandelier——anywherebutatthedreadfulballspinningroundthewheel。Therewasapause；thegamewasdeclared，therakerattledupanddown，butstillIdidnotlookatthetable。Indeed，inmyinexperienceofthegameandmyembarrassment，IdoubtifIshouldhaveknownifI
　　hadwonornot。IhadmadeupmymindthatIshouldlose，butI
　　mustdosolikeaman，and，aboveall，withoutgivingtheleastsuspicionthatIwasagreenhorn。Ievenaffectedtobelisteningtothemusic。Thewheelspunagain；thegamewasdeclared，therakewasbusy，butIdidnotmove。AtlastthemanIhaddisplacedtouchedmeonthearmandwhispered，"Bettermakeastraddleanddivideyourstakethistime。"Ididnotunderstandhim，butasI
　　sawhewaslookingattheboard，Iwasobligedtolook，too。I
　　drewbackdazedandbewildered！Wheremycoinhadlainamomentbeforewasaglitteringheapofgold。
　　Mystakehaddoubled，quadrupled，anddoubledagain。Ididnotknowhowmuchthen——-Idonotknownow——itmayhavebeennotmorethanthreeorfourhundreddollars——butitdazzledandfrightenedme。"Makeyourgame，gentlemen，"saidthecroupiermonotonously。
　　Ithoughthelookedatme——indeed，everybodyseemedtobelookingatme——andmycompanionrepeatedhiswarning。ButhereImustagainappealtotheboyishreaderindefenseofmyidioticobstinacy。Tohavetakenadvicewouldhaveshownmyyouth。I
　　shookmyhead——Icouldnottrustmyvoice。Ismiled，butwithasinkingheart，andletmystakeremain。Theballagainspedroundthewheel，andstopped。Therewasapause。Thecroupierindolentlyadvancedhisrakeandsweptmywholepilewithothersintothebank！Ihadlostitall。PerhapsitmaybedifficultformetoexplainwhyIactuallyfeltrelieved，andeventosomeextenttriumphant，butIseemedtohaveassertedmygrown-upindependence——
　　possiblyatthecostofreducingthenumberofmymealsfordays；
　　butwhatofthat！Iwasaman！IwishIcouldsaythatitwasalessontome。Iamafraiditwasnot。ItwastruethatIdidnotgambleagain，butthenIhadnoespecialdesireto——andtherewasnotemptation。Iamafraiditwasanincidentwithoutamoral。
　　YetithadonetouchcharacteristicoftheperiodwhichIliketoremember。Themanwhohadspokentome，Ithink，suddenlyrealized，atthemomentofmydisastrouscoup，thefactofmyextremeyouth。Hemovedtowardthebanker，andleaningoverhimwhisperedafewwords。Thebankerlookedup，halfimpatiently，halfkindly——hishandstrayingtentativelytowardthepileofcoin。
　　Iinstinctivelyknewwhathemeant，and，summoningmydetermination，methiseyeswithalltheindifferenceIcouldassume，andwalkedaway。
　　Ihadatthatperiodasmallroomatthetopofahouseownedbyadistantrelation——asecondorthirdcousin，Ithink。Hewasamanofindependentandoriginalcharacter，hadaUlysseanexperienceofmenandcities，andanoldEnglishnameofwhichhewasproud。
　　WhileinLondonhehadprocuredfromtheHeralds'Collegehisfamilyarms，whosecrestwasstampeduponaquantityofplatehehadbroughtwithhimtoCalifornia。Theplate，togetherwithanexceptionallygoodcook，whichhehadalsobrought，andhisownepicureantastes，heutilizedintheusualpracticalCalifornianfashionbystartingaratherexpensivehalf-club，half-restaurantinthelowerpartofthebuilding——whichheruledsomewhatautocratically，asbecamehiscrest。Therestaurantwastooexpensiveformetopatronize，butIsawmanyofitsfrequentersaswellasthosewhohadroomsattheclub。Theyweremenofverydistinctpersonality；afewcelebrated，andnearlyallnotorious。
　　TheyrepresentedaBohemianism——ifsuchitcouldbecalled——lessinnocentthanmylaterexperiences。Iremember，however，onehandsomeyoungfellowwhomIusedtomeetoccasionallyonthestaircase，whocapturedmyyouthfulfancy。Imethimonlyatmidday，ashedidnotrisetilllate，andthisfact，withacertainscrupulouseleganceandneatnessinhisdress，oughttohavemademesuspectthathewasagambler。Inmyinexperienceitonlyinvestedhimwithacertainromanticmystery。
　　OnemorningasIwasgoingouttomyveryearlybreakfastatacheapItaliancafeonLongWharf，Iwassurprisedtofindhimalsodescendingthestaircase。Hewasscrupulouslydressedevenatthatearlyhour，butIwasstruckbythefactthathewasallinblack，andhisslightfigure，buttonedtothethroatinatightlyfittingfrockcoat，gave，Ifancied，asingularmelancholytohispaleSouthernface。Nevertheless，hegreetedmewithmorethanhisusualserenecordiality，andIrememberedthathelookedupwithahalf-puzzled，half-amusedexpressionattherosymorningskyashewalkedafewstepswithmedownthedesertedstreet。IcouldnothelpsayingthatIwasastonishedtoseehimupsoearly，andheadmittedthatitwasabreakinhisusualhabits，butaddedwithasmilingsignificanceIafterwardsrememberedthatitwas"anevenchanceifhediditagain。"Aswenearedthestreetcorneramaninabuggydroveupimpatiently。Inspiteofthedriver'sevidenthaste，myhandsomeacquaintancegotinleisurely，and，liftinghisglossyhattomewithapleasantsmile，wasdrivenaway。Ihaveaverylastingrecollectionofhisfaceandfigureasthebuggydisappeareddowntheemptystreet。Ineversawhimagain。ItwasnotuntilaweeklaterthatIknewthatanhourafterheleftmethatmorninghewaslyingdeadinalittlehollowbehindtheMissionDolores——shotthroughtheheartinaduelforwhichhehadrisensoearly。
　　Irecallanotherincidentofthatperiod，equallycharacteristic，buthappilylesstragicinsequel。Iwasintherestaurantonemorningtalkingtomycousinwhenamanenteredhastilyandsaidsomethingtohiminahurriedwhisper。Mycousincontractedhiseyebrowsandutteredasuppressedoath。Thenwithagestureofwarningtothemanhecrossedtheroomquietlytoatablewherearegularhabitueoftherestaurantwaslazilyfinishinghisbreakfast。Alargesilvercoffee-potwithastiffwoodenhandlestoodonthetablebeforehim。Mycousinleanedovertheguestfamiliarlyandapparentlymadesomehospitableinquiryastohiswants，withhishandrestinglightlyonthecoffee-pothandle。
　　Then——possiblybecause，mycuriosityhavingbeenexcited，Iwaswatchinghimmoreintentlythantheothers——Isawwhatprobablynooneelsesaw——thathedeliberatelyupsetthecoffee-potanditscontentsovertheguest'sshirtandwaistcoat。Asthevictimsprangupwithanexclamation，mycousinoverwhelmedhimwithapologiesforhiscarelessness，and，withprotestationsofsorrowfortheaccident，actuallyinsistedupondraggingthemanupstairsintohisownprivateroom，wherehefurnishedhimwithashirtandwaistcoatofhisown。Thesidedoorhadscarcelycloseduponthem，andIwasstilllostinwonderatwhatIhadseen，whenamanenteredfromthestreet。HewasoneofthedesperatesetIhavealreadyspokenof，andthoroughlywellknowntothosepresent。Hecastaglancearoundtheroom，noddedtooneortwooftheguests，andthenwalkedtoasidetableandtookupanewspaper。Iwasconsciousatoncethatasingularconstrainthadcomeovertheotherguests——anervousawkwardnessthatatlastseemedtomakeitselfknowntothemanhimself，who，afteranaffectedyawnortwo，laiddownthepaperandwalkedout。
　　"Thatwasamightyclosecall，"saidoneoftheguestswithasighofrelief。
　　"Youbet！Andthatcoffee-potspillwastheluckiestkindofaccidentforPeters，"returnedanother。
　　"Forboth，"addedthefirstspeaker，"forPeterswasarmedtoo，andwouldhaveseenhimcomein！"
　　Awordortwoexplainedall。Petersandthelastcomerhadquarreledadayortwobefore，andhadseparatedwiththeintentionto"shootonsight，"thatis，wherevertheymet，——aformofduelcommontothosedays。Theaccidentalmeetingintherestaurantwouldhavebeentheoccasion，withtheusualsanguinaryconsequence，butforthewordofwarninggiventomycousinbyapasser-bywhoknewthatPeters'antagonistwascomingtotherestauranttolookatthepapers。HadmycousinrepeatedthewarningtoPetershimselfhewouldonlyhavepreparedhimfortheconflict——whichhewouldnothaveshirked——andsoprecipitatedtheaffray。
　　Theruseofupsettingthecoffee-pot，whicheverybodybutmyselfthoughtanaccident，wastogethimoutoftheroombeforetheotherentered。Iwastooyoungthentoventuretointrudeuponmycousin'ssecrets，buttwoorthreeyearsafterwardsItaxedhimwiththetrickandheadmitteditregretfully。Ibelievethatastrictinterpretationofthe"code"wouldhavecondemnedhisactasunsportsmanlike，ifnotUNFAIR！
　　Irecallanotherincidentconnectedwiththebuildingequallycharacteristicoftheperiod。TheUnitedStatesBranchMintstoodverynearit，anditstall，factory-likechimneysovershadowedmycousin'sroof。Somescandalhadarisenfromanallegedleakageofgoldinthemanipulationofthatmetalduringthevariousprocessesofsmeltingandrefining。Oneoftheexcusesofferedwasthevolatilizationofthepreciousmetalanditsescapethroughthedraftofthetallchimneys。AllSanFranciscolaughedatthisexplanationuntilitlearnedthatacorroborationofthetheoryhadbeenestablishedbyanassayofthedustandgrimeoftheroofsinthevicinityoftheMint。Thesehadyieldeddistincttracesofgold。SanFranciscostoppedlaughing，andthatportionofitwhichhadroofsintheneighborhoodatoncebeganprospecting。Claimswerestakedoutontheseairyplacers，andmycousin'sroof，beingtheverynextonetothechimney，andpresumably"inthelead，"wasdisposedoftoaspeculativecompanyforaconsiderablesum。I
　　remembermycousintellingmethestory——fortheoccurrencewasquiterecent——andtakingmewithhimtotherooftoexplainit，butIamafraidIwasmoreattractedbythemysteryofthecloselyguardedbuilding，andthestrangelytintedsmokewhicharosefromthistemplewheremoneywasactuallybeing"made，"thanbyanythingelse。NordidIdreamasIstoodthere——averylanky，open-mouthedyouth——thatonlythreeorfouryearslaterIshouldbethesecretaryofitssuperintendent。InmymoreadventurousambitionI
　　amafraidIwouldhaveacceptedthesuggestionhalf-heartedly。
　　Merelytohavehelpedtostampthegoldwhichotherpeoplehadadventurouslyfoundwasbynomeansapartofmyyouthfuldreams。
　　AtthetimeoftheseearlierimpressionstheChinesehadnotyetbecometherecognizedfactorsinthedomesticandbusinesseconomyofthecitywhichtheyhadcometobewhenIreturnedfromtheminesthreeyearslater。Yettheywereeventhenamoreremarkableandpicturesquecontrasttothebustling，breathless，andbrand-newlifeofSanFranciscothantheSpaniard。Thelatterseldomflauntedhisfadeddignityintheprincipalthoroughfares。"John"
　　wastobemeteverywhere。Itwasacommonthingtoseealongfileofsampancooliescarryingtheirbasketsslungbetweenthem，onpoles，jostlingamodern，well-dressedcrowdinMontgomeryStreet，ortogetawhiffoftheirburnedpunkinthesidestreets；whiletheroadleadingtotheirtemporaryburial-groundatLoneMountainwaslitteredwithslipsofcoloredpaperscatteredfromtheirfunerals。TheybroughtanatmosphereoftheArabianNightsintothehard，moderncivilization；theirshops——notalwaysconfinedatthattimetoaChinesequarter——werereplicasofthebazaarsofCantonandPeking，withtheirquaintdisplayoflittledishesonwhichtidbitsoffooddelicacieswereexposedforsale，allofthedimensionsandunrealityofadoll'skitchenorachild'shousekeeping。
　　TheywerearevelationtotheEasternimmigrant，whosepreconceivedideasofthemwereborrowedfromtheballetorpantomime；theydidnotwearscallopeddrawersandhatswithjinglingbellsontheirpoints，nordidIeverseethemdancewiththeirforefingersverticallyextended。Theywerealwaysneatlydressed，eventhecommonestofcoolies，andtheirfestivedressesweremarvels。Astraderstheyweregraveandpatient；asservantstheyweresadandcivil，andallweresingularlyinfantineintheirnaturalsimplicity。Thelivingrepresentativesoftheoldestcivilizationintheworld，theyseemedlikechildren。Yettheykepttheirbeliefsandsympathiestothemselves，neverfraternizingwiththefanqui，orforeigndevil，orlosingtheirsingularracialqualities。Theyindulgedintheirownpeculiarhabits；oftheirsocialandinnerlife，SanFranciscoknewbutlittleandcaredless。Evenatthisearlyperiod，andbeforeIcametoknowthemmoreintimately，Irememberanincidentoftheirdaringfidelitytotheirowncustomsthatwasaccidentallyrevealedtome。IhadbecomeacquaintedwithaChineseyouthofaboutmyownage，asI
　　imagined，——althoughfrommereoutwardappearanceitwasgenerallyimpossibletojudgeofaChinaman'sagebetweenthelimitsofseventeenandfortyyears，——andhehad，inaburstofconfidence，takenmetoseesomecharacteristicsightsinaChinesewarehousewithinastone'sthrowofthePlaza。IwasstruckbythesingularcircumstancethatwhilethewarehousewasanerectionofwoodintheordinaryhastyCalifornianstyle，therewerecertainbrickandstonedivisionsinitsinterior，likesmallroomsorclosets，evidentlyaddedbytheChinamentenants。Mycompanionstoppedbeforealong，verynarrowentrance，amerelongitudinalslitinthebrickwall，andwithawinkofinfantinedeviltrymotionedmetolookinside。Ididso，andsawaroom，reallyacell，offairheightbutscarcelysixfeetsquare，andbarelyabletocontainarude，slantingcouchofstonecoveredwithmatting，onwhichlay，atapainfulangle，arichlydressedChinaman。Asingleglanceathisdull，staring，abstractedeyesandhalf-openedmouthshowedmehewasinanopiumtrance。Thiswasnotinitselfanovelsight，andIwasmovingawaywhenIwassuddenlystartledbytheappearanceofhishands，whichwerestretchedhelplesslybeforehimonhisbody，andatfirstsightseemedtobeinakindofwickercage。
　　Ithensawthathisfinger-nailsweresevenoreightincheslong，andweresupportedbybamboosplints。Indeed，theywerenolongerhumannails，buttwistedanddistortedquills，givinghimtheappearanceofhavinggiganticclaws。"VellybigChinaman，"
　　whisperedmycheerfulfriend；"first-chopman——highclassee——nocanwashee——nocaneat——nodlinke，nocatcheehimowngluballeesamenotheeman——Chinaboymustcatcheeglubforhim，alleetime！Oh，himfirst-chopman——youbettee！"
　　Ihadheardofthissingularcustomofindicatingcastebefore，andwasamazedanddisgusted，butIwasnotpreparedforwhatfollowed。
　　Mycompanion，evidentlythinkinghehadimpressedme，grewmorerecklessasshowman，andsayingtome，"Nowmeshoweeyouonefunnything——heapmakeeyoulaugh，"ledmehurriedlyacrossalittlecourtyardswarmingwithchickensandrabbits，whenhestoppedbeforeanotherinclosure。SuddenlybrushingpastanastonishedChinamanwhoseemedtobestandingguard，hethrustmeintotheinclosureinfrontofamostextraordinaryobject。ItwasaChinaman，wearingahuge，square，woodenframefastenedaroundhisnecklikeacollar，andfittingsotightlyandrigidlythatthefleshroseinpuffywealsaroundhischeeks。Hewaschainedtoapost，althoughitwasasimpossibleforhimtohaveescapedwithhiswoodencagethroughthenarrowdoorwayasitwasforhimtoliedownandrestinit。YetIamboundtosaythathiseyesandfaceexpressednothingbutapathy，andtherewasnoappealtothesympathyofthestranger。Mycompanionsaidhurriedly，——
　　"Vellybadman；stealeeheapfromChinamen，"andthen，apparentlyalarmedathisownindiscreetintrusion，hustledmeawayasquicklyaspossibleamidashrillcacklingofprotestationfromafewofhisowncountrymenwhohadjoinedtheonewhowaskeepingguard。
　　Inanothermomentwewereinthestreetagain——scarceastepfromthePlaza，inthefulllightofWesterncivilization——notastone'sthrowfromthecourtsofjustice。
　　Mycompaniontooktohisheelsandleftmestandingtherebewilderedandindignant。IcouldnotrestuntilIhadtoldmystory，butwithoutbetrayingmycompanion，toanelderacquaintance，wholaidthefactsbeforethepoliceauthorities。Ihadexpectedtobecloselycross-examined——tobedoubted——tobedisbelieved。Tomysurprise，Iwastoldthatthepolicehadalreadycognizanceofsimilarcasesofillegalandbarbarouspunishments，butthatthevictimsthemselvesrefusedtotestifyagainsttheircountrymen——anditwasimpossibletoconvictoreventoidentifythem。"Awhitemancan'ttelloneChinesefromanother，andtherearealwaysadozenof'emreadytoswearthatthemanyou'vegotisn'ttheone。"IwasstartledtoreflectthatI，too，couldnothaveconscientiouslysworntoeitherjailororthetorturedprisoner——orperhapseventomycheerfulcompanion。Thepolice，onsomepretext，madearaiduponthepremisesadayortwoafterwards，butwithoutresult。I
　　wonderediftheyhadcaughtsightofthehigh-class，first-chopindividual，withthehelplesslyoutstretchedfingers，asthatstoryIhadkepttomyself。
　　ButthesebarbaricvestigesinJohnChinaman'shabitsdidnotaffecthisrelationswiththeSanFranciscans。Hewassingularlypeaceful，docile，andharmlessasaservant，and，withrareexceptions，honestandtemperate。Ifhesometimesmatchedcunningwithcunning，itwastheflatteryofimitation。HedidmostofthemenialworkofSanFrancisco，anddiditcleanly。Exceptthatheexhaledapeculiardruglikeodor，hewasnotpersonallyoffensiveindomesticcontact，andbyvirtueofbeingtherecognizedlaundrymanofthewholecommunityhisownblouseswerealwaysfreshlywashedandironed。Hisconversationalreservearose，notfromhishavingtodealwithanunfamiliarlanguage，——forhehadpickedupapicturesqueandvariedvocabularywithease，——butfromhisnaturaltemperament。Hewasdevoidofcuriosity，andutterlyunimpressedbyanythingbutthepurelybusinessconcernsofthoseheserved。Domesticsecretsweresafewithhim；hisindifferencetoyourthoughts，actions，andfeelingshadallthecontemptwhichhisthreethousandyearsofhistoryandhisinnatebeliefinyourinferiorityseemedtojustify。Hewasblindanddeafinyourhouseholdbecauseyoudidn'tinteresthimintheleast。Itwassaidthatagentleman，whowishedtotesthisimpassiveness，arrangedwithhiswifetocomehomeonedayand，inthehearingofhisChinesewaiterwhowasmorethanusuallyintelligent——todisclosewithwell-simulatedemotionthedetailsofamurderhehadjustcommitted。Hedidso。TheChinamanhearditwithoutasignofhorrororattentioneventotheliftingofaneyelid，butcontinuedhisdutiesunconcerned。Unfortunately，thegentleman，inordertoincreasethehorrorofthesituation，addedthatnowtherewasnothingleftforhimbuttocuthisthroat。AtthisJohnquietlylefttheroom。ThegentlemanwasdelightedatthesuccessofhisruseuntilthedoorreopenedandJohnreappearedwithhismaster'srazor，whichhequietlyslipped——asifithadbeenaforgottenfork——besidehismaster'splate，andcalmlyresumedhisserving。Ihavealwaysconsideredthisstorytobequiteasimprobableasitwasinartistic，fromitstacitadmissionofacertaininterestonthepartoftheChinaman。Ineverknewonewhowouldhavebeensufficientlyconcernedtogofortherazor。
　　Histaciturnityandreticencemayhavebeenconfoundedwithrudenessofaddress，althoughhewasalwayscivilenough。"IseeyouhavelistenedtomeanddoneexactlywhatItoldyou，"saidalady，commendingsomeperformanceofherservantafterapreviouslengthylecture；"that'sverynice。""Yes，"saidJohncalmly，"youtalkeealleetime；talkeealleetoomuch。""IalwaysfindLingverypolite，"saidanotherlady，speakingofhercook，"butIwishhedidnotalwayssaytome，'Goodnight，John，'inahighfalsettovoice。"Shehadnotrecognizedthefactthathewassimplyrepeatingherownsalutationwithhismarvelousinstinctofrelentlessimitation，evenastovoice。Ihesitatetorecordtheendlessstoriesofhismisapplicationofthatfacultywhichwerethencurrent，fromtheoneofthelaundrymanwhoremovedthebuttonsfromtheshirtsthatweresenttohimtowashthattheymightagreewiththeconditionoftheoneofferedhimasapatternfor"doingup，"tothatoftheunfortunateemployerwho，whileshowingJohnhowtohandlevaluablechinacarefully，hadthemisfortunetodropaplatehimself——anaccidentwhichwasfollowedbythepromptbreakingofanotherbytheneophyte，withtheadditionof"Oh，hellee！"inhumbleimitationofhismaster。
　　Ihavespokenofhisgeneralcleanliness；Iamremindedofoneortwoexceptions，whichIthink，however，wereerrorsofzeal。Hismannerofsprinklingclothesinpreparingthemforironingwaspeculiar。Hewouldfillhismouthwithperfectlypurewaterfromaglassbesidehim，andthen，byonedexterousmovementofhislipsinaprolongedexpiration，squirtthewaterinanalmostinvisiblemistyshoweronthearticlebeforehim。ShockingasthiswasatfirsttothesensibilitiesofmanyAmericanemployers，itwasfinallyaccepted，andevencommended。Itwassometimeafterthisthatthemistressofahousehold，admiringthedeftwayinwhichhercookhadspreadawhitesauceoncertaindishes，wascheerfullyinformedthatthemethodwas"alleesame。"
　　Hisrecreationsatthattimewerechieflygambling，fortheChinesetheatrewhereinthelatterproducedhisplays（whichlastedforseveralmonthsandcomprisedtheeventsofawholedynasty）wasnotyetbuilt。ButhehadoneortwocompaniesofjugglerswhooccasionallyperformedalsoatAmericantheatres。Irememberasingularincidentwhichattendedthedebutofanewlyarrivedcompany。ItseemedthatthecompanyhadbeentakenontheirChinesereputationsolely，andtherehadbeennopreviousrehearsalbeforetheAmericanstagemanager。ThetheatrewasfilledwithanaudienceofdecorousandrespectableSanFranciscansofbothsexes。
　　Itwassuddenlyemptiedinthemiddleoftheperformance；thecurtaincamedownwithanalarmedandblushingmanagerapologizingtodesertedbenches，andtheshowabruptlyterminated。ExactlyWHAThadhappenedneverappearedinthepublicpapers，norinthepublishedapologyofthemanager。Itaffordedafewdays'mirthforwickedSanFrancisco，anditwasepigrammaticallysummedupintheremarkthat"nowomancouldbefoundinSanFranciscowhowasatthatperformance，andnomanwhowasnot。"YetitwasallegedevenbyJohn'sworstdetractorsthathewasinnocentofanyintendedoffense。Equallyinnocent，butperhapsmoremorallyinstructive，wasanincidentthatbroughthiscareerasasingularlysuccessfulphysiciantoadisastrousclose。AnordinarynativeChinesedoctor，practicingentirelyamonghisowncountrymen，wasreputedtohavemadeextraordinarycureswithtwoorthreeAmericanpatients。Withnootheradvertisingthanthis，andapparentlynootherinducementofferedtothepublicthanwhattheircuriositysuggested，hewaspresentlybesiegedbyhopefulandeagersufferers。Hundredsofpatientswereturnedawayfromhiscrowdeddoors。Twointerpreterssat，dayandnight，translatingtheillsofailingSanFranciscotothismedicaloracle，anddispensinghisprescriptions——usuallysmallpowders——inexchangeforcurrentcoin。InvaintheregularpractitionerspointedoutthattheChinesepossessednosuperiormedicalknowledge，andthattheirreligion，whichproscribeddissectionandautopsies，naturallylimitedtheirunderstandingofthebodyintowhichtheyputtheirdrugs。FinallytheyprevaileduponaneminentChineseauthoritytogivethemalistoftheremediesgenerallyusedintheChinesepharmacopoeia，andthiswasprivatelycirculated。ForobviousreasonsImaynotrepeatithere。Butitwassummedup——
　　againaftertheusualCalifornianepigrammaticstyle——bytheremarkthat"whateverwerethecomparativemeritsofChineseandAmericanpractice，asimpleperusalofthelistwouldprovethattheChinesewerecapableofproducingthemostpowerfulemeticknown。"Thecrazesubsidedinasingleday；theinterpretersandtheiroraclevanished；theChinesedoctors'signs，whichhadmultiplied，disappeared，andSanFranciscoawokecuredofitsmadness，atthecostofsomethousanddollars。
　　MyBohemianwanderingswereconfinedtothelimitsofthecity，fortheverygoodreasonthattherewaslittleelsewheretogo。SanFranciscowasthenboundedononesidebythemonotonouslyrestlesswatersofthebay，andontheotherbyastretchofequallyrestlessandmonotonouslyshiftingsanddunesasfarasthePacificshore。Tworoadspenetratedthiswaste：onetoLoneMountain——thecemetery；theothertotheCliffHouse——happilydescribedas"aneight-miledrivewithacocktailattheendofit。"Norwasthehumorentirelyconfinedtothisfelicitousdescription。TheCliffHouseitself，halfrestaurant，halfdrinkingsaloon，frontingtheoceanandtheSealRock，wheredisportingsealswerethechiefobjectofinterest，haditsownpeculiarsymbol。Thedecanters，wine-glasses，andtumblersatthebarwereallengravedinoldEnglishscriptwiththelegalinitials"L。S。"（LocusSigilli），——
　　"theplaceoftheseal。"
　　Ontheotherhand，LoneMountain，adrearypromontorygivingupontheGoldenGateanditsstrikingsunsets，hadlittletosoftenitsweirdsuggestiveness。Asthecommongoalofthesuccessfulandunsuccessful，thecarvedandletteredshaftofthemanwhohadmadeaname，andthestaringblankheadboardofthemanwhohadnone，climbedthesandyslopestogether。Ihaveseenthefuneralsoftherespectablecitizenwhohaddiedpeacefullyinhisbed，andthenotoriousdesperadowhohaddied"withhisbootson，"followedbyanequallyimpressivecortegeofsorrowingfriends，andoftentheself-samepriest。Butmoreawfulthanitsbarrenlonelinesswastheutterabsenceofpeacefulnessandrestinthisdismalpromontory。Bysomewickedironyofitssituationandclimateitwasthepersonificationofunrestandchange。Theincessanttradewindscarrieditsloosesandshitherandthither，uncoveringthedecayingcoffinsofearlypioneers，toburythewreathsandflowers，laidonagraveofto-day，undertheirobliteratingwaves。
　　Notreetoshadethemfromtheglaringskyabovecouldliveinthosewinds，noturfwouldlietheretoresisttheencroachingsandbelow。Thedeadwereharriedandhustledevenintheirgravesbythepersistentsun，theunremittingwind，andtheunceasingsea。
　　Thedepartingmournersawthecontouroftheverymountainitselfchangewiththeshiftingdunesashepassed，andhislastlookbeyondrestedonthehurrying，eagerwavesforeverhasteningtotheGoldenGate。
　　IfIwereaskedtosaywhatonethingimpressedmeasthedominantandcharacteristicnoteofSanFrancisco，Ishouldsayitwasthisuntiringpresenceofsunandwindandsea。Theytypified，eveniftheywerenot，asIsometimesfancied，theactualincentivetothefierce，restlesslifeofthecity。IcouldnotthinkofSanFranciscowithoutthetradewinds；Icouldnotimagineitsstrange，incongruous，multigenerousprocessionmarchingtoanyothermusic。
　　Theywerealwaysthereinmyyouthfulrecollections；theywerethereinmymoreyouthfuldreamsofthepastasthemysteriousvientesgeneralesthatblewthePhilippinegalleonshome。
　　Forsixmonthstheyblewfromthenorthwest，forsixmonthsfromthesouthwest，withunvaryingpersistency。Theywerethereeverymorning，glitteringintheequallypersistentsunlight，tochasetheSanFranciscanfromhisslumber；theywerethereatmidday，tostirhispulseswiththeirbeat；theywerethereagainatnight，tohurryhimthroughthebleakandflaringgas-litstreetstobed。
　　Theylefttheirmarkoneverywindwardstreetorfenceorgable，ontheoutlyingsanddunes；theylashedtheslowcoastershome，andhurriedthemtoseaagain；theywhippedthebayintoturbulenceontheirwaytoContraCosta，whoselevelshorelandoakstheyhadtrimmedtowindwardascleanlyandsharplyaswithapruning-
　　shears。Untiringthemselves，theyallowednolaggards；theydrovetheSanFranciscanfromthewallagainstwhichhewouldhaveleaned，fromthescantshadeinwhichatnoontidehemighthaverested。Theyturnedhissmallestfiresintoconflagrations，andkepthimeveralert，watchful，andeager。Inreturn，theyscavengedhiscityandhelditcleanandwholesome；insummertheybroughthimthesoftsea-fogforafewhourstosoothehisabradedsurfaces；inwintertheybroughttherainsanddashedthewholecoast-linewithflowers，andthestaringskyaboveitwithsoft，unwontedclouds。Theywerealwaysthere——strong，vigilant，relentless，material，unyielding，triumphant。