CHAPTERI。
INTRODUCTORY。
THEancientandfamousmetropolisoftheNorthsitsoverlookingawindyestuaryfromtheslopeandsummitofthreehills。Nosituationcouldbemorecommandingfortheheadcityofakingdom；nonebetterchosenfornobleprospects。Fromhertallprecipiceandterracedgardensshelooksfarandwideontheseaandbroadchampaigns。
TotheeastyoumaycatchatsunsetthesparkoftheMaylighthouse，wheretheFirthexpandsintotheGermanOcean；andawaytothewest，overallthecarseofStirling，youcanseethefirstsnowsuponBenLedi。
ButEdinburghpayscruellyforherhighseatinoneofthevilestclimatesunderheaven。Sheisliabletobebeatenuponbyallthewindsthatblow，tobedrenchedwithrain，tobeburiedincoldseafogsoutoftheeast，andpowderedwiththesnowasitcomesflyingsouthwardfromtheHighlandhills。Theweatherisrawandboisterousinwinter，shiftyandungenialinsummer，andadownrightmeteorologicalpurgatoryinthespring。Thedelicatedieearly，andI，asasurvivor，amongbleakwindsandplumpingrain，havebeensometimestemptedtoenvythemtheirfate。Forallwholoveshelterandtheblessingsofthesun，whohatedarkweatherandperpetualtiltingagainstsqualls，therecouldscarcelybefoundamoreunhomelyandharassingplaceofresidence。ManysuchaspireangrilyafterthatSomewhere-elseoftheimagination，wherealltroublesaresupposedtoend。
TheyleanoverthegreatbridgewhichjoinstheNewTownwiththeOld-thatwindiestspot，orhighaltar，inthisnortherntempleofthewinds-andwatchthetrainssmokingoutfromunderthemandvanishingintothetunnelonavoyagetobrighterskies。HappythepassengerswhoshakeoffthedustofEdinburgh，andhaveheardforthelasttimethecryoftheeastwindamongherchimney-
tops！Andyettheplaceestablishesaninterestinpeople’shearts；gowheretheywill，theyfindnocityofthesamedistinction；gowheretheywill，theytakeaprideintheiroldhome。
Venice，ithasbeensaid，differsfromanothercitiesinthesentimentwhichsheinspires。Therestmayhaveadmirers；sheonly，afamousfairone，countsloversinhertrain。And，indeed，evenbyherkindestfriends，Edinburghisnotconsideredinasimilarsense。Theselikeherformanyreasons，notanyoneofwhichissatisfactoryinitself。Theylikeherwhimsically，ifyouwill，andsomewhatasavirtuosodotesuponhiscabinet。Herattractionisromanticinthenarrowestmeaningoftheterm。Beautifulassheis，sheisnotsomuchbeautifulasinteresting。Sheispre-eminentlyGothic，andallthemoresosinceshehassetherselfoffwithsomeGreekairs，anderectedclassictemplesonhercrags。Inaword，andaboveall，sheisacuriosity。
ThePalaceofHolyroodhasbeenleftasideinthegrowthofEdinburgh，andstandsgreyandsilentinaworkman’squarterandamongbreweriesandgasworks。Itisahouseofmanymemories。Greatpeopleofyore，kingsandqueens，buffoonsandgraveambassadors，playedtheirstatelyfarceforcenturiesinHolyrood。Warshavebeenplotted，dancinghaslasteddeepintothenight，-murderhasbeendoneinitschambers。TherePrinceCharlieheldhisphantomlevees，andinaverygallantmannerrepresentedafallendynastyforsomehours。Now，allthesethingsofclayaremingledwiththedust，theking’scrownitselfisshownforsixpencetothevulgar；
butthestonepalacehasoutlivedthesecharges。Forfiftyweekstogether，itisnomorethanashowfortouristsandamuseumofoldfurniture；butonthefifty-
first，beholdthepalacereawakenedandmimickingitspast。TheLordCommissioner，akindofstagesovereign，sitsamongstagecourtiers；acoachandsixandclatteringescortcomeandgobeforethegate；atnight，thewindowsarelightedup，anditsnearneighbours，theworkmen，maydanceintheirownhousestothepalacemusic。Andinthisthepalaceistypical。Thereisasparkamongtheembers；fromtimetotimetheoldvolcanosmokes。Edinburghhasbutpartlyabdicated，andstillwears，inparody，hermetropolitantrappings。Halfacapitalandhalfacountrytown，thewholecityleadsadoubleexistence；ithaslongtrancesoftheoneandflashesoftheother；likethekingoftheBlackIsles，itishalfaliveandhalfamonumentalmarble。Therearearmedmenandcannoninthecitadeloverhead；youmayseethetroopsmarshalledonthehighparade；andatnightaftertheearlywintereven-fall，andinthemorningbeforethelaggardwinterdawn，thewindcarriesabroadoverEdinburghthesoundofdrumsandbugles。Gravejudgessitbewiggedinwhatwasoncethesceneofimperialdeliberations。ClosebyintheHighStreetperhapsthetrumpetsmaysoundaboutthestrokeofnoon；
andyouseeatroopofcitizensintawdrymasquerade；
tabardabove，heather-mixturetrowserbelow，andthementhemselvestrudginginthemudamongunsympatheticby-
standers。Thegroomsofawell-appointedcircustreadthestreetswithabetterpresence。AndyetthesearetheHeraldsandPursuivantsofScotland，whoareabouttoproclaimanewlawoftheUnitedKingdombeforetwo-scoreboys，andthieves，andhackney-coachmen。MeanwhileeveryhourthebelloftheUniversityringsoutoverthehumofthestreets，andeveryhouradoubletideofstudents，comingandgoing，fillsthedeeparchways。Andlastly，onenightinthespringtime-orsayonemorningrather，atthepeepofday-latefolkmayhearvoicesofmanymensingingapsalminunisonfromachurchononesideoftheoldHighStreet；andalittleafter，orperhapsalittlebefore，thesoundofmanymensingingapsalminunisonfromanotherchurchontheoppositesideoftheway。TherewillbesomethinginthewordsabovethedewofHermon，andhowgoodlyitistoseebrethrendwellingtogetherinunity。Andthelatefolkwilltellthemselvesthatallthissingingdenotestheconclusionoftwoyearlyecclesiasticalparliaments-theparliamentsofChurcheswhicharebrothersinmanyadmirablevirtues，butnotspeciallylikebrothersinthisparticularofatolerantandpeacefullife。
Again，meditativepeoplewillfindacharminacertainconsonancybetweentheaspectofthecityanditsoddandstirringhistory。Fewplaces，ifany，offeramorebarbaricdisplayofcontraststotheeye。Intheverymidststandsoneofthemostsatisfactorycragsinnature-aBassRockupondryland，rootedinagardenshakenbypassingtrains，carryingacrownofbattlementsandturrets，anddescribingitswar-likeshadowovertheliveliestandbrightestthoroughfareofthenewtown。
Fromtheirsmokybeehives，tenstorieshigh，theunwashedlookdownupontheopensquaresandgardensofthewealthy；andgaypeoplesunningthemselvesalongPrincesStreet，withitsmileofcommercialpalacesallbeflaggeduponsomegreatoccasion，see，acrossagardenedvalleysetwithstatues，wherethewashingsoftheOldTownflutterinthebreezeatitshighwindows。Andthen，uponallsides，whataclashingofarchitecture！Inthisonevalley，wherethelifeofthetowngoesmostbusilyforward，theremaybeseen，shownoneaboveandbehindanotherbytheaccidentsoftheground，buildingsinalmosteverystyleupontheglobe。EgyptianandGreektemples，VenetianpalacesandGothicspires，arehuddledoneoveranotherinamostadmireddisorder；while，aboveall，thebrutemassoftheCastleandthesummitofArthur’sSeatlookdownupontheseimitationswithabecomingdignity，astheworksofNaturemaylookdownthemonumentsofArt。ButNatureisamoreindiscriminatepatronessthanweimagine，andinnowayfrightenedofastrongeffect。ThebirdsroostaswillinglyamongtheCorinthiancapitalsasinthecranniesofthecrag；thesameatmosphereanddaylightclothetheeternalrockandyesterday’simitationportico；andasthesoftnorthernsunshinethrowsouteverythingintoaglorifieddistinctness-oreasterlymists，comingupwiththeblueevening，fusealltheseincongruousfeaturesintoone，andthelampsbegintoglitteralongthestreet，andfaintlightstoburninthehighwindowsacrossthevalley-thefeelinggrowsuponyouthatthisalsoisapieceofnatureinthemostintimatesense；thatthisprofusionofeccentricities，thisdreaminmasonryandlivingrock，isnotadrop-
sceneinatheatre，butacityintheworldofevery-dayreality，connectedbyrailwayandtelegraph-wirewithallthecapitalsofEurope，andinhabitedbycitizensofthefamiliartype，whokeepledgers，andattendchurch，andhavesoldtheirimmortalportiontoadailypaper。Byallthecanonsofromance，theplacedemandstobehalfdesertedandleaningtowardsdecay；birdswemightadmitinprofusion，theplayofthesunandwinds，andafewgipsiesencampedinthechiefthoroughfare；butthesecitizenswiththeircabsandtramways，theirtrainsandposters，arealtogetheroutofkey。Charteredtourists，theymakefreewithhistoriclocalities，andreartheiryoungamongthemostpicturesquesiteswithagrandhumanindifference。Toseethemthrongingby，intheirneatclothesandconsciousmoralrectitude，andwithalittleairofpossessionthatvergesontheabsurd，isnottheleaststrikingfeatureoftheplace。*
*Thesesentenceshave，Ihear，givenoffenceinmynativetown，andaproportionablepleasuretoourrivalsofGlasgow。Iconfessthenewscausedmebothpainandmerriment。MayIremark，asabalmforwoundedfellow-
townsmen，thatthereisnothingdeadlyinmyaccusations？
Smallblametothemiftheykeepledgers：’tisanexcellentbusinesshabit。Churchgoingisnot，thateverIheard，asubjectofreproach；decencyoflinenisamarkofprosperousaffairs，andconsciousmoralrectitudeoneofthetokensofgoodliving。Itisnottheirfaultitthecitycallsforsomethingmorespeciousbywayofinhabitants。Amaninafrock-coatlooksoutofplaceuponanAlporPyramid，althoughhehasthevirtuesofaPeabodyandthetalentsofaBentham。Andletthemconsolethemselves-theydoaswellasanybodyelse；thepopulationof（letussay）Chicagowouldcutquiteasruefulafigureonthesameromanticstage。TotheGlasgowpeopleIwouldsayonlyoneword，butthatisofgold；IHAVENOTYETWRITTENABOOKABOUTGLASGOW。
Andthestoryofthetownisaseccentricasitsappearance。Forcenturiesitwasacapitalthatchedwithheather，andmorethanonce，intheevildaysofEnglishinvasion，ithasgoneupinflametoheaven，abeacontoshipsatsea。Itwasthejousting-groundofjealousnobles，notonlyonGreenside，orbytheKing’sStables，wheresettournamentswerefoughttothesoundoftrumpetsandundertheauthorityoftheroyalpresence，butineveryalleywheretherewasroomtocrossswords，andinthemainstreet，wherepopulartumultundertheBlueBlanketalternatedwiththebrawlsofoutlandishclansmenandretainers。DowninthepalaceJohnKnoxreprovedhisqueenintheaccentsofmoderndemocracy。
Inthetown，inoneofthoselittleshopsplasteredlikesomanyswallows’nestsamongthebuttressesoftheoldCathedral，thatfamiliarautocrat，JamesVI。，wouldgladlyshareabottleofwinewithGeorgeHeriotthegoldsmith。UponthePentlandHills，thatsoquietlylookdownontheCastlewiththecitylyinginwavesaroundit，thosemadanddismalfanatics，theSweetSingers，haggardfromlongexposureonthemoors，satdayandnightwith’tearfulpsalmns’toseeEdinburghconsumedwithfirefromheaven，likeanotherSodomorGomorrah。There，intheGrass-market，stiff-necked，covenantingheroes，offereduptheoftenunnecessary，butnotlesshonourable，sacrificeoftheirlives，andbadeeloquentfarewelltosun，moon，andstars，andearthlyfriendships，ordiedsilenttotherollofdrums。DownbyyonoutletrodeGrahameofClaverhouseandhisthirtydragoons，withthetownbeatingtoarmsbehindtheirhorses’tails-asorryhandfulthusridingfortheirlives，butwithamanattheheadwhowastoreturninadifferenttemper，makeadashthatstaggeredScotlandtotheheart，anddiehappilyinthethickoffight。ThereAikenheadwashangedforapieceofboyishincredulity；
there，afewyearsafterwards，DavidHumeruinedPhilosophyandFaith，anundisturbedandwell-reputedcitizen；andthither，inyetafewyearsmore，Burnscamefromtheplough-tail，astoanacademyofgiltunbeliefandartificialletters。There，whenthegreatexoduswasmadeacrossthevalley，andtheNewTownbegantospreadabroaditsdraughtyparallelograms，andrearitslongfrontageontheopposinghill，therewassuchaflitting，suchachangeofdomicileanddweller，aswasneverexcelledinthehistoryofcities：thecobblersucceededtheearl；thebeggarensconcedhimselfbythejudge’schimney；whathadbeenapalacewasusedasapauperrefuge；andgreatmansionsweresoparcelledoutamongtheleastandlowestinsociety，thatthehearthstoneoftheoldproprietorwasthoughtlargeenoughtobepartitionedoffintoabedroombythenew。
CHAPTERII。
OLDTOWN-THELANDS。
THEOldTown，itispretended，isthechiefcharacteristic，and，fromapicturesquepointofview，theliver-wingofEdinburgh。Itisoneofthemostcommonformsofdepreciationtothrowcoldwateronthewholebyadroitover-commendationofapart，sinceeverythingworthjudging，whetheritbeaman，aworkofart，oronlyafinecity，mustbejudgeduponitsmeritsasawhole。TheOldTowndependsformuchofitseffectonthenewquartersthatliearoundit，onthesufficiencyofitssituation，andonthehillsthatbackitup。Ifyouweretosetitsomewhereelsebyitself，itwouldlookremarkablylikeStirlinginabolderandloftieredition。ThepointistoseethisembellishedStirlingplantedinthemidstofalarge，active，andfantasticmoderncity；fortherethetwore-actinapicturesquesense，andtheoneisthemakingoftheother。
TheOldTownoccupiesaslopingridgeortailofdiluvialmatter，protected，insomesubsidenceofthewaters，bytheCastlecliffswhichfortifyittothewest。Ontheonesideofitandtheotherthenewtownsofthesouthandofthenorthoccupytheirlower，broader，andmoregentlehill-tops。Thus，thequarteroftheCastleover-topsthewholecityandkeepsanopenviewtoseaandland。Itdominatesformilesoneveryside；andpeopleonthedecksofships，orploughinginquietcountryplacesoverinFife，canseethebannerontheCastlebattlements，andthesmokeoftheOldTownblowingabroadoverthesubjacentcountry。Acitythatissetuponahill。Itwas，Isuppose，fromthisdistantaspectthatshegothernicknameofAULDREEKIE。Perhapsitwasgivenherbypeoplewhohadnevercrossedherdoors：dayafterday，fromtheirvariousrusticPisgahs，theyhadseenthepileofbuildingonthehill-top，andthelongplumeofsmokeovertheplain；soitappearedtothem；soithadappearedtotheirfatherstillingthesamefield；andasthatwasalltheyknewoftheplace，itcouldbeallexpressedinthesetwowords。
Indeed，evenonanearerview，theOldTownisproperlysmoked；andthoughitiswellwashedwithrainalltheyearround，ithasagrimandsootyaspectamongitsyoungersuburbs。Itgrew，underthelawthatregulatesthegrowthofwalledcitiesinprecarioussituations，notinextent，butinheightanddensity。
Publicbuildingswereforced，wherevertherewasroomforthem，intothemidstofthoroughfares；thorough-fareswerediminishedintolanes；housessprangupstoryafterstory，neighbourmountinguponneighbour’sshoulder，asinsomeBlackHoleofCalcutta，untilthepopulationsleptfourteenorfifteendeepinaverticaldirection。
ThetallestoftheseLANDS，astheyarelocallytermed，havelongsincebeenburntout；buttothisdayitisnotuncommontoseeeightortenwindowsataflight；andthecliffofbuildingwhichhangsimminentoverWaverleyBridgewouldstillputmanynaturalprecipicestoshame。
Thecellarsarealreadyhighabovethegazer’shead，plantedonthesteephill-side；asforthegarret，allthefurnituremaybeinthepawn-shop，butitcommandsafamousprospecttotheHighlandhills。ThepoormanmayroostupthereinthecentreofEdinburgh，andyethaveapeepofthegreencountryfromhiswindow；heshallseethequartersofthewell-to-dofathomsunderneath，withtheirbroadsquaresandgardens；heshallhavenothingoverheadbutafewspires，thestonetop-gallantsofthecity；andperhapsthewindmayreachhimwitharusticpureness，andbringasmackoftheseaoroffloweringlilacsinthespring。
ItisalmostthecorrectliterarysentimenttodeploretherevolutionaryimprovementsofMr。Chambersandhisfollowing。Itiseasytobeaconservatorofthediscomfortsofothers；indeed，itisonlyourgoodqualitieswefinditirksometoconserve。Assuredly，indrivingstreetsthroughtheblacklabyrinth，afewcuriousoldcornershavebeensweptaway，andsomeassociationsturnedoutofhouseandhome。Butwhatslicesofsunlight，whatbreathsofcleanair，havebeenletin！Andwhatapicturesqueworldremainsuntouched！
Yougounderdarkarches，anddowndarkstairsandalleys。Thewayissonarrowthatyoucanlayahandoneitherwall；sosteepthat，ingreasywinterweather，thepavementisalmostastreacherousasice。Washingdanglesabovewashingfromthewindows；thehousesbulgeoutwardsuponflimsybrackets；youseeabitofsculptureinadarkcorner；atthetopofall，agableandafewcrowstepsareprintedonthesky。Here，youcomeintoacourtwherethechildrenareatplayandthegrownpeoplesitupontheirdoorsteps，andperhapsachurchspireshowsitselfabovetheroofs。Here，inthenarrowestoftheentry，youfindagreatoldmansionstillerect，withsomeinsigniaofitsformerstate-somescutcheon，someholyorcourageousmotto，onthelintel。Thelocalantiquarypointsoutwherefamousandwell-bornpeoplehadtheirlodging；andasyoulookup，outpopstheheadofaslatternlywomanfromthecountess’swindow。TheBedouinscampwithinPharaoh’spalacewalls，andtheoldwar-shipisgivenovertotherats。Wearealreadyafarwayfromthedayswhenpowderedheadswereplentifulinthesealleys，withjolly，port-winefacesunderneath。
EveninthechiefthoroughfaresIrishwashingsflutteratthewindows，andthepavementsareencumberedwithloiterers。
Theseloiterersareatruecharacterofthescene。
SomeshrewdScotchworkmenmayhavepausedontheirwaytoajob，debatingChurchaffairsandpoliticswiththeirtoolsupontheirarm。Butthemostpartareofadifferentorder-skulkingjail-birds；unkempt，bare-footchildren；big-mouthed，robustwomen，inasortofuniformofstripedflannelpetticoatandshorttartanshawl；
amongthese，afewsurpervisingconstablesandadismalsprinklingofmutineersandbrokenmenfromhigherranksinsociety，withsomemarkofbetterdaysuponthem，likeabrand。InaplacenolargerthanEdinburgh，andwherethetrafficismostlycentredinfiveorsixchiefstreets，thesamefacecomesoftenunderthenoticeofanidlestroller。Infact，fromthispointofview，Edinburghisnotsomuchasmallcityasthelargestofsmalltowns。Itisscarcepossibletoavoidobservingyourneighbours；andIneveryetheardofanyonewhotried。Ithasbeenmyfortune，inthisanonymousaccidentalway，towatchmorethanoneofthesedownwardtravellersforsomestagesontheroadtoruin。OnemanmusthavebeenupwardsofsixtybeforeIfirstobservedhim，andhemadethenadecent，personablefigureinbroad-clothofthebest。Forthreeyearshekeptfalling-greasecomingandbuttonsgoingfromthesquare-skirtedcoat，thefacepuffingandpimpling，theshouldersgrowingbowed，thehairfallingscantandgreyuponhishead；andthelastthateverIsawofhim，hewasstandingatthemouthofanentrywithseveralmeninmoleskin，threepartsdrunk，andhisoldblackraimentdaubedwithmud。IfancythatIstillcanhearhimlaugh。Therewassomethingheart-breakinginthisgradualdeclensionatsoadvancedanage；youwouldhavethoughtamanofsixtyoutofthereachofthesecalamities；youwouldhavethoughtthathewasnichedbythattimeintoasafeplaceinlife，whencehecouldpassquietlyandhonourablyintothegrave。
OneoftheearliestmarksoftheseDEGRINGOLADESis，thatthevictimbeginstodisappearfromtheNewTownthoroughfares，andtakestotheHighStreet，likeawoundedanimaltothewoods。Andsuchanoneisthetypeofthequarter。Italsohasfallensocially。A
scutcheonoverthedoorsomewhatjarsinsentimentwherethereisawashingateverywindow。Theoldman，whenI
sawhimlast，worethecoatinwhichhehadplayedthegentlemanthreeyearsbefore；andthatwasjustwhatgavehimsopre-eminentanairofwretchedness。
Itistruethattheover-populationwasatleastasdenseintheepochoflordsandladies，andthatnow-a-
dayssomecustomswhichmadeEdinburghnotoriousofyorehavebeenfortunatelypretermitted。Butanaggregationofcomfortisnotdistastefullikeanaggregationofthereverse。Nobodycareshowmanylordsandladies，anddivinesandlawyers，mayhavebeencrowdedintothesehousesinthepast-perhapsthemorethemerrier。Theglassesclinkaroundthechinapunch-bowl，someonetouchesthevirginals，therearepeacocks’feathersonthechimney，andthetapersburnclearandpaleintheredfirelight。Thatisnotanuglypictureinitself，norwillitbecomeuglyuponrepetition。Allthebetterifthelikeweregoingonineverysecondroom；theLAND
wouldonlylookthemoreinviting。Timesarechanged。
Inonehouse，perhaps，two-scorefamiliesherdtogether；
and，perhaps，notoneofthemiswhollyoutofthereachofwant。Thegreathotelisgivenovertodiscomfortfromthefoundationtothechimney-tops；everywhereapinching，narrowhabit，scantymeals，andanairofsluttishnessanddirt。Inthefirstroomthereisabirth，inanotheradeath，inathirdasordiddrinking-
bout，andthedetectiveandtheBible-readercrossuponthestairs。Highwordsareaudiblefromdwellingtodwelling，andchildrenhaveastrangeexperiencefromthefirst；onlyarobustsoul，youwouldthink，couldgrowupinsuchconditionswithouthurt。AndevenifGodtempersHisdispensationstotheyoung，andalltheilldoesnotarisethatourapprehensionsmayforecast，thesightofsuchawayoflivingisdisquietingtopeoplewhoaremorehappilycircumstanced。SocialinequalityisnowheremoreostentatiousthanatEdinburgh。Ihavementionedalreadyhow，tothestrolleralongPrincesStreet，theHighStreetcallouslyexhibitsitsbackgarrets。Itistrue，thereisagardenbetween。Andalthoughnothingcouldbemoreglaringbywayofcontrast，sometimestheoppositionismoreimmediate；sometimesthethingliesinanutshell，andthereisnotsomuchasabladeofgrassbetweentherichandpoor。TolookovertheSouthBridgeandseetheCowgatebelowfullofcryinghawkers，istoviewonerankofsocietyfromanotherinthetwinklingofaneye。
OnenightIwentalongtheCowgateaftereveryonewasa-bedbutthepoliceman，andstoppedbyhazardbeforeatallLAND。Themoontoucheduponitschimneys，andshoneblanklyontheupperwindows；therewasnolightanywhereinthegreatbulkofbuilding；butasIstoodthereitseemedtomethatIcouldhearquiteabodyofquietsoundsfromtheinterior；doubtlessthereweremanyclocksticking，andpeoplesnoringontheirbacks。Andthus，asIfancied，thedenselifewithinmadeitselffaintlyaudibleinmyears，familyafterfamilycontributingitsquotatothegeneralhum，andthewholepilebeatingintunetoitstimepieces，likeagreatdisorderedheart。Perhapsitwaslittlemorethanafancyaltogether，butitwasstrangelyimpressiveatthetime，andgavemeanimaginativemeasureofthedisproportionbetweenthequantityoflivingfleshandthetriflingwallsthatseparatedandcontainedit。
Therewasnothingfanciful，atleast，buteverycircumstanceofterrorandreality，inthefalloftheLANDintheHighStreet。Thebuildinghadgrownrottentothecore；theentryunderneathhadsuddenlyclosedupsothatthescavenger’sbarrowcouldnotpass；cracksandreverberationssoundedthroughthehouseatnight；theinhabitantsofthehugeoldhumanbee-hivediscussedtheirperilwhentheyencounteredonthestair；somehadevenlefttheirdwellingsinapanicoffear，andreturnedtothemagaininafitofeconomyorself-
respect；when，intheblackhoursofaSundaymorning，thewholestructurerantogetherwithahideousuproarandtumbledstoryuponstorytotheground。Thephysicalshockwasfeltfarandnear；andthemoralshocktravelledwiththemorningmilkmaidintoallthesuburbs。
Thechurch-bellsneversoundedmoredismallyoverEdinburghthanthatgreyforenoon。Deathhadmadeabraveharvest，and，likeSamson，bypullingdownoneroof，destroyedmanyahome。Nonewhosawitcanhaveforgottentheaspectofthegable；hereitwasplastered，therepapered，accordingtotherooms；herethekettlestillstoodonthehob，highoverhead；andthereacheappictureoftheQueenwaspastedoverthechimney。So，bythisdisaster，youhadaglimpseintothelifeofthirtyfamilies，allsuddenlycutofffromtherevolvingyears。
TheLANDhadfallen；andwiththeLANDhowmuch！Farinthecountry，peoplesawagapinthecityranks，andthesunlookedthroughbetweenthechimneysinanunwontedplace。Andallovertheworld，inLondon，inCanada，inNewZealand，fancywhatamultitudeofpeoplecouldexclaimwithtruth：’ThehousethatIwasborninfelllastnight！’
CHAPTERIII。
THEPARLIAMENTCLOSE。
TIMEhaswroughtitschangesmostnotablyaroundtheprecinctsofSt。Giles’sChurch。Thechurchitself，ifitwerenotforthespire，wouldbeunrecognisable；theKRAMESareallgone，notashopislefttoshelterinitsbuttresses；andzealousmagistratesandamisguidedarchitecthaveshornthedesignofmanhood，andleftitpoor，naked，andpitifullypretentious。AsSt。Giles’smusthavehadinformerdaysarichandquaintappearancenowforgotten，sotheneighbourhoodwasbustling，sunless，andromantic。Itwasherethatthetownwasmostoverbuilt；buttheoverbuildinghasbeenallrootedout，andnotonlyafreefair-wayleftalongtheHighStreetwithanopenspaceoneithersideofthechurch，butagreatporthole，knockedinthemainlineoftheLANDS，givesanoutlooktothenorthandtheNewTown。
ThereisasillystoryofasubterraneanpassagebetweentheCastleandHolyrood，andaboldHighlandpiperwhovolunteeredtoexploreitswindings。Hemadehisentrancebytheupperend，playingastrathspey；thecuriousfooteditafterhimdownthestreet，followinghisdescentbythesoundofthechanterfrombelow；untilallofasudden，aboutthelevelofSt。Giles’s，themusiccameabruptlytoanend，andthepeopleinthestreetstoodatfaultwithhandsuplifted。Whetherhewaschokedwithgases，orperishedinaquag，orwasremovedbodilybytheEvilOne，remainsapointofdoubt；
butthepiperhasneveragainbeenseenorheardoffromthatdaytothis。PerhapshewandereddownintothelandofThomastheRhymer，andsomeday，whenitisleastexpected，maytakeathoughttorevisitthesunlitupperworld。ThatwillbeastrangemomentforthecabmenonthestancebesidesSt。Giles’s，whentheyhearthedroneofhispipesreascendingfromthebowelsoftheearthbelowtheirhorses’feet。
Butitisnotonlypiperswhohavevanished，manyasolidbulkofmasonryhasbeenlikewisespiritedintotheair。Here，forexample，istheshapeofaheartletintothecauseway。ThiswasthesiteoftheTolbooth，theHeartofMidlothian，aplaceoldinstoryandnamefathertoanoblebook。Thewallsarenowdowninthedust；
thereisnomoreSQUALORCARCERISformerrydebtors，nomorecagefortheold，acknowledgedprison-breaker；butthesunandthewindplayfreelyoverthefoundationsofthejail。Noristhistheonlymemorialthatthepavementkeepsofformerdays。Theancientburying-
groundofEdinburghlaybehindSt。Giles’sChurch，runningdownhilltotheCowgateandcoveringthesiteofthepresentParliamentHouse。IthasdisappearedasutterlyastheprisonortheLuckenbooths；andforthoseignorantofitshistory，Iknowonlyonetokenthatremains。IntheParliamentClose，troddendailyunderfootbyadvocates，twolettersandadatemarktheresting-placeofthemanwhomadeScotlandoveragaininhisownimage，theindefatigable，undissuadableJohnKnox。Hesleepswithincallofthechurchthatsooftenechoedtohispreaching。
Hardbythereformer，abandy-leggedandgarlandedCharlesSecond，madeoflead，bestridesatun-belliedcharger。TheKinghashisbackedturned，and，asyoulook，seemstobetrottingclumsilyawayfromsuchadangerousneighbour。Often，forhourstogether，thesetwowillbealoneintheClose，foritliesoutofthewayofallbutlegaltraffic。Ononesidethesouthwallofthechurch，ontheotherthearcadesoftheParliamentHouse，enclosethisirregularbightofcausewayanddescribetheirshadowsonitinthesun。Ateitherend，fromroundSt。Giles’sbuttresses，youcommandalookintotheHighStreetwithitsmotleypassengers；butthestreamgoesby，eastandwest，andleavestheParliamentClosetoCharlestheSecondandthebirds。Onceinawhile，apatientcrowdmaybeseenloiteringthereallday，someeatingfruit，somereadinganewspaper；andtojudgebytheirquietdemeanour，youwouldthinktheywerewaitingforadistributionofsoup-tickets。Thefactisfarotherwise；withinintheJusticiaryCourtamanisupontrialforhislife，andthesearesomeofthecuriousforwhomthegallerywasfoundtoonarrow。
Towardsafternoon，iftheprisonerisunpopular，therewillbearoundofhisseswhenheisbroughtforth。Onceinawhile，too，anadvocateinwigandgown，handuponmouth，fullofpregnantnods，sweepstoandfrointhearcadelisteningtoanagent；andatcertainregularhoursawholetideoflawyershurriesacrossthespace。
TheParliamentClosehasbeenthesceneofmarkingincidentsinScottishhistory。Thus，whentheBishopswereejectedfromtheConventionin1688，’allfourteenofthemgatheredtogetherwithpalefacesandstoodinacloudintheParliamentClose：’poorepiscopalpersonageswhoweredonewithfairweatherforlife！Someofthewest-countrySocietariansstandingby，whowouldhave’rejoicedmorethaningreatsums’tobeattheirhanging，hustledthemsorudelythattheyknockedtheirheadstogether。Itwasnotmagnanimousbehaviourtodethronedenemies；butone，atleast，oftheSocietarianshadgroanedintheBOOTS，andtheyhadallseentheirdearfriendsuponthescaffold。Again，atthe’woefulUnion，’itwasherethatpeoplecrowdedtoescorttheirfavouritefromthelastofScottishparliaments：peopleflushedwithnationality，asBoswellwouldhavesaid，readyforriotousacts，andfreshfromthrowingstonesattheauthorof’RobinsonCrusoe’ashelookedoutofwindow。
Oneofthepiousintheseventeenthcentury，goingtopasshisTRIALS（examinationsaswenowsay）fortheScottishBar，beheldtheParliamentCloseopenandhadavisionofthemouthofHell。This，andsmallwonder，wasthemeansofhisconversion。Norwasthevisionunsuitabletothelocality；forafteranhospital，whatuglierpieceisthereincivilisationthanacourtoflaw？Hithercomeenvy，malice，andalluncharitablenesstowrestleitoutinpublictourney；crimes，brokenfortunes，severedhouseholds，theknaveandhisvictim，gravitatetothislowbuildingwiththearcade。TohowmanyhasnotSt。Giles’sbelltoldthefirsthourafterruin？IthinkIseethempausetocountthestrokes，andwanderonagainintothemovingHighStreet，stunnedandsickatheart。
Apairofswingdoorsgivesadmittancetoahallwithacarvedroof，hungwithlegalportraits，adornedwithlegalstatuary，lightedbywindowsofpaintedglass，andwarmedbythreevastfires。ThisistheSALLEDES
PASPERDUSoftheScottishBar。Here，byaferociouscustom，idleyouthsmustpromenadefromtentilltwo。