PISCATAQUARIVER
Thousingestbythegleamingisles，Bywoods，andfieldsofcorn，Thousingest，andthesunlightsmilesUponmybirthdaymorn。
ButIwithinacity，I，Sofullofvagueunrest，WouldalmostgivemylifetolieAnhouruponuponthybreast。
Toletthewherrylistlessgo，And，wraptindreamyjoy，Dip，andsurgeidlytoandfro，Liketheredharbor-buoy；
Tositinhappyindolence，Torestupontheoars，AndcatchtheheavyearthyscentsThatblowfromsummershores；
Toseetheroundedsungodown，AndwithitspartingfiresLightupthewindowsofthetownAndburnthetaperingspires；
AndthentohearthemuffledtollsFromsteeplesslimandwhite，Andwatch，amongtheIslesofShoals，TheBeacon’sorangelight。
ORiver！flowingtothemainThroughwoods，andfieldsofcorn，HearthoumylongingandmypainThissunnybirthdaymorn；
AndtakethissongwhichfancyshapesTomusiclikethineown，AndsingittothecliffsandcapesAndcragswhereIamknown！
CONTENTS
I。CAPTAINJOHNSMITH
II。ALONGTHEWATERSIDE
III。ASTROLLABOUTTOWN
IV。ASTROLLABOUTTOWN（continued）
V。OLDSTRAWBERRYBANK
VI。SOMEOLDPORTSMOUTHPROFILES
VII。PERSONALREMINISCENCES
INDEXOFNAMES
ANOLDTOWNBYTHESEA
I。
CAPTAINJOHNSMITH
ICALLitanoldtown，butitisonlyrelativelyold。Whenonereflectsonthecountlesscenturiesthathavegonetothefor-mationofthiscrustofearthonwhichwetemporarilymove，themostancientcitiesonitssurfaceseemmerelythingsoftheweekbeforelast。Itwasonlytheotherday，then——thatistosay，inthemonthofJune，1603——thatoneMartinPring，intheshipSpeedwell，anenormousshipofnearlyfiftytonsburden，fromBristol，England，sailedupthePiscataquaRiver。TheSpeedwell，numberingthirtymen，officersandcrew，hadforconsorttheDiscoverer，oftwenty-sixtonsandthirteenmen。
Afterfollowingthewindingsof"thebraveriver"fortwelvemilesormore，thetwovesselsturnedbackandputtoseaagain，havingfailedinthechiefobjectoftheexpedition，whichwastoobtainacargoofthemedicinalsassafras-tree，fromthebarkofwhich，aswellknowntoourancestors，couldbedistilledtheElixirofLife。
ItwasatsomepointontheleftbankofthePiscataqua，threeorfourmilesfromthemouthoftheriver，thatworthyMasterPringprobablyeffectedoneofhisseverallandings。Thebeautifulstreamwidenssuddenlyatthisplace，andthegreenbanks，thencoveredwithanetworkofstrawberryvines，andslopinginvitinglytothelipofthecrystalwater，musthavewonthetiredmariners。
Theexplorersfoundthemselvesontheedgeofavastforestofoak，hemlock，maple，andpine；buttheysawnosassafras-treestospeakof，nordidtheyencounter——whatwouldhavebeeninfinitelylesstotheirtaste——andred-men。HereandtherewerediscoverablethescatteredashesoffireswheretheIndianshadencampedearlierinthespring；theywereabsentnow，atthesilveryfalls，higherupthestream，wherefishaboundedatthatseason。ThesoftJunebreeze，ladenwiththedelicatebreathofwild-flowersandthepungentodorsofspruceandpine，ruffledtheduplicateskyinthewater；thenewleaveslispedpleasantlyinthetreetops，andthebirdsweresingingasiftheyhadgonemad。Norudersoundormovementoflifedisturbedtheprimevalsolitude。MasterPringwouldscarcelyrecognizethespotwerehetolandthereto-day。
ElevenyearsafterwardsamuchcleverermanthanthecommanderoftheSpeedwelldroppedanchorinthePiscataqua——CaptainJohnSmithoffamousmemory。AfterslayingTurksinhand-to-handcombats，anddoingallsortsofdoughtydeedswhereverhechancedtodecoratetheglobewithhispresence，hehadcomewithtwovesselstothefisheriesontherockyselvageofMaine，whencuriosity，orperhapsadeepermotive，ledhimtoexaminetheneighboringshorelines。Witheightofhismeninasmallboat，aship’syawl，heskirtedthecoastfromPenobscotBaytoCapeCod，keepinghiseyeopen。Thiskeepinghiseyeopenwasapeculiarityofthelittlecaptain；possiblyafamilytrait。ItwasSmithwhoreallydiscoveredtheIslesofShoals，exploringinpersonthosemassesofbleachedrock——those"islesassezhautes，"
ofwhichtheFrenchnavigatorPierredeGuast，SieurdeMonts，hadcaughtabird’s-eyeglimpsethroughthetwilightin1605。
CaptainSmithchristenedthegroupSmith’sIsles，atitlewhichposterity，withsingularpersistenceofingratitude，hasignored。
ItwasatardysenseofjusticethatexpresseditselfafewyearsagoinerectingonStarIslandasimplemarbleshafttothememoryofJOHNSMITH——themultitudinous！Perhapsthislongdelayisexplainedbyanaturalhesitationtolabelamonumentsoambiguously。
ThemodernJason，meanwhile，wasnotwithouthonorinhisowncountry，whatevermayhavehappenedtohiminhisownhouse，forthepoetGeorgeWitheraddressedacopyofpompousverses"TohisFriendCaptainSmith，uponhisDescriptionofNewEngland。""Sir，"
hesays——
"Sir：yourRelationsIhaueread：whichshewTher’sreasonIshouldhonorthemandyou：
AndiftheirmeaningIhavevnderstood，Idaretocensurethus：YourProject’sgood；
Andmay（iffollow’d）doubtlessequitthepaineWithhonour，pleasureandatrebblegaine；
BesidethebenefitthatshallariseTomakemorehappyourPosterities。"
TheearliestmapofthisportionofourseaboardwaspreparedbySmithandlaidbeforePrinceCharles，whoaskedtogivethecountryaname。HechristeneditNewEngland。InthatremarkablemapthesiteofPortsmouthiscallHull，andKitteryandYorkareknownasBoston。
ItwasdoubtlessowingtoCaptainJohnSmith’srepresentationonhisreturntoEnglandthattheLaconiaCompanyselectedthebanksofthePiscataquafortheirplantation。SmithwasonanintimatefootingwithSirFerinandGorges，who，fiveyearssubsequently，madeatourofinspectionalongtheNewEnglandcoast，incompanywithJohnMason，thenGovernorofNewfoundland。OneoftheresultsofthissummercruiseisthetownofPortsmouth，amongwhoseleafyways，andintosomeofwhoseold-fashionedhouses，I
purposetotakethereader，ifhehaveanidlehouronhishands。
Shouldwemeettheflittingghostofsomeold-timeworthy，onthestaircaseoratalonelystreetcorner，thereadermustbepreparedforit。
II。
ALONGTHEWATERSIDE
ITisnotsupposablethattheearlysettlersselectedthesiteoftheirplantationonaccountofitspicturesqueness。Theywereinfluencedentirelybythelayoftheland，itsnearnessandeasyaccesstothesea，andthesecureharboritofferedtotheirfishing-vessels；yettheycouldnothavechosenamorebeautifulspothadbeautybeenthesoleconsideration。ThefirstsettlementwasmadeatOdiorne’sPoint——thePilgrims’RockofNewHampshire；
theretheManor，orMason’sHall，wasbuiltbytheLaconiaCompanyin1623。Itwasnotuntil1631thattheGreatHousewaserectedbyHumphreyChadbornonStrawberryBank。Mr。Chadborn，consciouslyorunconsciously，sowedaseedfromwhichacityhassprung。
ThetownofPortsmouthstretchesalongthesouthbankofthePiscataqua，abouttwomilesfromtheseaasthecrowflies——threemilesfollowingtheserpentinecourseoftheriver。Thestreambroadenssuddenlyatthispoint，andatfloodtide，lyingwithoutarippleinabasinformedbytheinterlockedislandsandthemainland，itlooksmorelikeanislandlakethanariver。Totheunaccustomedeyethereisnovisibleoutlet。StandingononeofthewharvesatthefootofStateStreetorCourtStreet，astrangerwouldatfirstscarcelysuspectthecontiguityoftheocean。Alittleobservation，however，wouldshowhimthathewasinaseaport。Therichredrustonthegablesandroofsofancientbuildingslookingseawardwouldtellhimthat。Thereisafitfulsalineflavorintheair，andifwhilehegazedadensewhitefogshouldcomerollingin，likealineofphantombreakers，hewouldnolongerhaveanydoubts。
Itisofcoursetheoldestpartofthetownthatskirtstheriver，thoughfewofthenotablehousesthatremainaretobefoundthere。LikeallNewEnglandsettlements，Portsmouthwasbuiltofwood，andhasbeensubjectedtoextensiveconflagrations。Yourarelycomeacrossabrickbuildingthatisnotshockinglymodern。ThefirsthouseofthekindwaserectedbyRichardWibirdtowardsthecloseoftheseventeenthcentury。
Thoughmanyoftheoldlandmarkshavebeensweptawaybythefatefulhandoftimeandfire，thetownimpressesyouasaveryoldtown，especiallyasyousaunteralongthestreetsdownbytheriver。Theworm-eatenwharves，someofthemcoveredbyasparse，unhealthybeardofgrass，andtheweather-stained，unoccupiedwarehousesaresufficienttosatisfyamoderateappetiteforantiquity。Thesedesertedpiersandtheselongrowsofemptybarracks，withtheirsarcasticcranesprojectingfromtheeaves，ratherpuzzlethestranger。Whythisgreatpreparationforacommercialactivitythatdoesnotexist，andevidentlyhadnotforyearsexisted？Therearenoshipslyingatthepier-heads；
therearenogangsofstevedoresstaggeringundertheheavycasesofmerchandise；hereandthereisabargeladendowntothebulwarkswithcoal，andhereandthereasquare-riggedschoonerfromMainesmotheredwithfragrantplanksandclapboards；animportedcitizenisfishingattheendofthewharf，aruminativefreckledsonofDrogheda，inperfectsympathywiththeindolentsunshinethatseemstobesoleproprietorofthesecrumblingpilesandridiculouswarehouses，fromwhicheventheghostofprosperityhasflown。
Onceuponatime，however，PortsmouthcarriedonanextensivetradewiththeWestIndies，threateningasamaritimeporttoeclipsebothBostonandNewYork。Atthewindowsofthesemustycounting-roomswhichoverlooktherivernearSpringMarketusedtostandportlymerchants，inkneebreechesandsilvershoe-bucklesandplum-coloredcoatswithrufflesatthewrist，waitingfortheirshipstocomeuptheNarrows；thecriesofstevedoresandthechantsofsailorsatthewindlassusedtoechoalongtheshorewhereallissilencenow。Forreasonsnotworthsettingforth，thetradewiththeIndiesabruptlyclosed，havingruinedaswellasenrichedmanyaPortsmouthadventurer。Thisexplainstheemptywarehousesandtheunusedwharves。Portsmouthremainstheinterestingwidowofaonceverylivelycommerce。I
fancythatfewfortunesareeithermadeorlostinPortsmouthnowadays。Formerlyitturnedoutthebestships，asitdidtheablestshipcaptains，intheworld。Therewerefamiliesinwhichtheloveforbluewaterwasinimmemorialtrait。Theboyswerealwayssailors；"agrey-headedshipmaster，ineachgeneration，retiringfromthequarter-decktothehomestead，whileaboyoffourteentookthehereditaryplacebeforethemast，confrontingthesaltsprayandthegale，whichhadblastedagainsthissireandgrandsire。"（1。HawthorneinhisintroductiontoTheScarletLetter。）Withthousandsofmilesofsea-lineandascoreortwoofthefinestharborsontheglobe，wehaveadroitlyturnedoverourcarryingtradetoforeignnations。
Inotherdays，asIhavesaid，ahighmaritimespiritwascharacteristicofPortsmouth。Thetowndidaprofitablebusinessinthewarof1812，sendingoutalargefleetofthesauciestsmallcraftonrecord。Apleasantstoryistoldofoneoftheselittleprivateers——theHarlequin，ownedandcommandedbyCaptainElihuBrown。TheHarlequinonedaygavechasetoalargeship，whichdidnotseemtohavemuchfightaboard，andhadgotitintoclosequarters，whensuddenlytheshystrangerthrewopenherports，andprovedtobeHisMajesty’sShip-of-WarBulwark，seventy-fourguns。PoorCaptainBrown！
Portsmouthhasseverallargecottonfactoriesandoneortwocorpulentbreweries；itisawealthyoldtown，withalikingforfirstmortgagebonds；butitswarmestloverwillnotclaimforitthedistinctionofbeingagreatmercantilecentre。Themajorityofheryoungmenareforcedtoseekotherfieldstoreap，andalmosteverycityintheUnion，andmanyacityacrossthesea，canpointtosomeeminentmerchant，lawyer，orwhatnot，as"aPortsmouthboy。"PortsmouthevenfurnishedthelatekingoftheSandwichIslands，Kekuanaoa，withaprimeminister，andhisnankeenMajestyneverhadabetter。Theaffectionwhichalltheseexilescherishfortheirbirthplaceisworthyofremark。Ontwooccasions——in1852and1873，thetwohundredandfiftiethanniversaryofthesettlementofStrawberryBank——thetransplantedsonsofPortsmouthwereseizedwithanimpulsetoreturnhome。Simultaneouslyandalmostwithoutconcertedaction，thelinesofpilgrimstookuptheirmarchfromeveryquarteroftheglobe，andsweptdownwithmusicandbannersonthemotherlyoldtown。
Tocomebacktothewharves。IdonotknowofanyspotwithsuchafascinatingairofdreamsandidlenessaboutitastheoldwharfattheendofCourtStreet。Theveryfactthatitwasonceanoisy，busyplace，crowdedwithsailorsandsoldiers——inthewarof1812——givesanemphasistothequietthatbroodsoveritto-day。Theloungerwhositsofasummerafternoononarustyanchorflukeintheshadowofoneofthesilentwarehouses，andlookonthelonelyriverasitgoesmurmuringpastthetown，cannotbetoogratefultotheIndiatradeforhavingtakenitselfoffelsewhere。
Whataslumberous，delightful，lazyplaceitis！Thesunshineseemstolieafootdeepontheplanksofthedustywharf，whichyieldsuptothewarmthavagueperfumeofthecargoesofrum，molasses，andspicethatusedtobepileduponit。Theriverisasblueastheinsideofaharebell。Theoppositeshore，inthestrangelyshiftingmagiclightsofskyandwater，stretchesalonglikethesilverycoastoffairyland。Directlyoppositeyouisthenavyyard，anditsneatofficers’quartersandworkshopsandarsenals，anditsvastshiphouses，inwhichthekeelofmanyafamousfrigatehasbeenlaid。Thosemonsterbuildingsonthewater’sedge，withtheirroofspiercedwithinnumerablelittlewindows，whichblinklikeeyesinthesunlight，andtheshiphouses。Onyourrightliesaclusterofsmallislands，——thereareadozenormoreintheharbor——onthemostextensiveofwhichyouseethefading-awayremainsofsomeearthworksthrownupin1812。Betweenthis——Trefethren’sIsland——andPeirce’sIslandlietheNarrows。Perhapsabarkorasloop-of-warismakinguptotown；thehulkishiddenamoungtheislands，andthetopmastshavetheeffectofsweepingacrossthedryland。Onyourleftisalongbridge，morethanaquarterofamileinlength，setuponpileswherethewateristwentyorthirtyfeetdeep，leadingtothenavyyardandKittery——theKitterysooftenthethemeofWhittier’sverse。
Thisisamereoutlineofthelandscapethatspreadsbeforeyou。
Itschangefulbeautyofformandcolor，withthesummercloudsfloatingoverit，isnottobepaintedinwords。Iknowofmanyaplacewherethesceneryismorevariedandstriking；butthereisamandragoraqualityintheatmosphereherethatholdsyoutothespot，andmakesthehalf-hoursseemlikeminutes。Icouldfancyamansittingontheendofthatoldwharfverycontentedlyfortwoorthreeyears，provideditcouldbealwaysinJune。
Perhaps，too，onewoulddesireittobealwayshighwater。Thetidefallsfromeighttotwelvefeet，andwhenthewatermakesoutbetweenthewharvessomeofthepicturesquenessmakesoutalso。Acorrodedsectionofstovepipemailedinbarnacles，ortheskeletonofahoopskirtprotrudingfromthetidemudliketheremainsofsomeold-timewreck，isapttobreaktheenchantment。
IfearIhavegiventhereaderanexaggeratedideaofthesolitudethatreignsalongtheriver-side。Sometimesthereissocietyhereofanunconventionalkind，ifyoucaretoseekit。
Asidefromtheforeigngentlemanbeforementioned，youarelikelytoencounter，fartherdowntheshoretowardthePointofGraves（aburial-placeofthecolonialperiod），abatteredandagednativefishermanboilinglobstersonalittlegravellybench，wheretheriverwhispersandlispsamongthepebblesasthetidecreepsin。Itisaweather-beatenex-skipperorex-pilot，withstrandsofcoarsehair，likeseaweed，fallingaboutafacethathastheexpressionofahalf-openclam。Heisalwaysreadytotalkwithyou，thisamphibiousperson；andifheisnotthemostentertainingofgossips——moreweather-wisethatOldProbabilities，andasfullofmovingincidentasOthellohimself——thenheisnotthewintery-hairedshipmanIusedtoseeafewyearsagoonthestripofbeachjustbeyondLibertyBridge，buildinghisdrift-woodfireunderagreattinboiler，andmakingitlivelyforalotofreluctantlobsters。
Iimaginethatverylittlechangehastakenplaceinthisimmediatelocality，knownprosaicallyasPuddleDock，duringthepastfiftyorsixtyyears。TheviewyougetlookingacrossLibertyBridge，WaterStreet，isprobablythesameineveryrespectthatpresenteditselftotheeyesofthetownfolkacenturyago。Theflagstaff，ontheright，istherepresentativeoftheold"standardofliberty"whichtheSonsplantedonthisspotinJanuary，1766，signalizingtheiroppositiontotheenforcementoftheStampAct。OnthesameoccasionthepatriotscalledatthehouseofMr。GeorgeMeserve，theagentfordistributingthestampsinNewHampshire，andrelievedhimofhisstamp-master’scommission，whichdocumenttheycarriedonthepointofaswordthroughthetowntoLibertyBridge（theSwingBridge），wheretheyerectedthestaff，withthemotto，"Liberty，Property，andnoStamp！"
TheStampActwastogointooperationonthefirstdayofNovember。Onthepreviousmorningthe"NewHampshireGazette"
appearedwithadeepblackborderandallthetypographicalemblemsofaffliction，forwasnotLibertydead？Atallevents，the"Gazette"itselfwasasgoodasdead，sincetheprintercouldnolongerpublishitifheweretobehandicappedbyaheavytax。
"Thedaywasusheredinbythetollingofallthebellsintown，thevesselsintheharborhadtheircolorshoistedhalf-masthigh；aboutthreeo’clockafuneralprocessionwasformed，havingacoffinwiththisinscription，LIBERTY，AGED145，STAMPT。Itmovedfromthestatehouse，withtwounbraceddrums，throughtheprincipalstreets。AsitpassedtheParade，minute-gunswerefired；attheplaceofintermentaspeechwasdeliveredontheoccasion，statingthemanyadvantageswehadreceivedandthemelancholyprospectbeforeus，attheseemingdepartureofourinvaluableliberties。Butsomesignoflifeappearing，Libertywasnotdepositedinthegrave；itwasrescuedbyanumberofhersons，themottochangedtoLibertyrevived，andcarriedoffintriumph。ThedetestableActwasburiedinitsstead，andtheclodsofthevalleywerelaiduponit；thebellschangedtheirmelancholysoundtoamorejoyfultone。"（1。AnnalsofPortsmouth，byNathanielAdams，1825。）
Withthissideglanceatoneofthecurioushumorsofthetime，weresumeourperegrinations。
Turningdownalaneonyourleft，afewrodsbeyondLibertyBridge，youreachaspotknownasthePointofGraves，chieflyinterestingasshowingwhatagraveyardmaycometoifitlastlongenough。In1671oneCaptainJohnPickering，ofwhomweshallhavemoretosay，cededtothetownapieceofgroundonthisneckforburialpurposes。Itisanodd-shapedlot，comprisingabouthalfanacre，inclosedbyacrumblingredbrickwalltwoorthreefeethigh，withwoodcapping。Theplaceisovergrownwiththistles，rankgrass，andfungi；theblackslateheadstoneshavemostlyfallenover；thosethatstillmakeapretenseofstandingslanttoeverypointofthecompass，andlookasiftheywerebeingblownthiswayandthatbyamysteriousgalewhichleaveseverythingelseuntouched；themoundshavesunktothecommonlevel，andtheoldundergroundtombshavecollapsed。Hereandtherethemossandweedsyoucanpickoutsomenamethatshinesinthehistoryoftheearlysettlement；hundredsoftheflowerofthecolonyliehere，buttheknownandtheunknown，gentleandsimple，mingletheirdustonaperfectequalitynow。Themarblethatonceboreahaughtycoatofarmsisassmoothasthehumblestslatestoneguiltlessofheraldry。Thelionandtheunicorn，wherevertheyappearonsomecrackedslab，areverymuchtamedbytime。Theoncefat-facedcherubs，withwingateithercheek，arethemerestskeletonsnow。Pride，pomp，grief，andremembranceareallatend。Noreverentfeetcomehere，notearsfallhere；theoldgraveyarditselfisdead！Amoredismal，uncannyspotthanthisattwilightwouldbehardtofind。Itisnoticedthatwhentheboyspassitafternightfall，theyalwaysgobywhistlingwithagayetythatisperfectlyhollow。
Letusgetintosomecheerfulerneighborhood！
III。
ASTROLLABOUTTOWN
ASyouleavetheriverfrontbehindyou，andpass"uptown，"thestreetsgrowwider，andthearchitecturebecomesmoreambitious——streetsfringedwithbeautifuloldtreesandlinedwithcommodiousprivatedwellings，mostlysquarewhitehouses，withspacioushallsrunningthroughthecentre。PrevioustotheRevolution，whitepaintwasseldomusedonhouses，andthediamond-shapedwindowpanewasalmostuniversal。Manyoftheresidencesstandbackfromthebrickorflagstonesidewalk，andhaveprettygardensatthesideorintherear，madebrightwithdahliasandsweetwithcinnamonroses。Ifyouchancetoliveinatownwheretheauthoritiescannotrestuntiltheyhavedestroyedeveryprecioustreewithintheirblightingreach，youwillbeespeciallycharmedbythebeautyofthestreetsofPortsmouth。
Insomepartsofthetown，whenthechestnutsareinblossom，youwouldfancyyourselfinagardeninfairyland。Inspring，summer，andautumnthefoliageisthegloryofthefairtown——herluxuriantgreenandgoldentreeses！NothingcouldseemmoreliketheworkofenchantmentthanthespectaclewhichcertainstreetsinPortsmouthpresentinthemidwinterafteraheavysnowstorm。
Youmaywalkformilesunderwonderfulsilveryarchesformedbytheoverhangingandinterlacedboughsofthetrees，festoonedwithadraperyevenmoregracefulanddazzlingthanspringtimegivesthem。Thenumerouselmsandmapleswhichshadetheprincipalthoroughfaresarenottheresultofchance，buttheamplerewardofthelovingcarethatistakentopreservethetrees。ThereisasocietyinPortsmouthdevotedtoarboriculture。Itisnotunusualthereforpersonstoleavelegaciestobeexpendedinsettingoutshadeandornamentaltreesalongsomefavoritewalk。RichardsAvenue，along，unbuiltthoroughfareleadingfromMiddleStreettotheSouthBurying-Ground，perpetuatesthenameofacitizenwhogavethelaborofhisownhandstothebeautifyingofthatwindsweptandbarrenroadthecemetery。Thisfondnessandcarefortreesseemstobeamatterofheredity。Sofarbackas1660theselectmeninstitutedafineoffiveshillingsforthecuttingoftimberoranyotherwoodfromoffthetowncommon，exceptingunderspecialconditions。
Inthebusinesssectionofthetowntreesarefew。ThechiefbusinessstreetsareCongressandMarket。MarketStreetisthestrongholdofthedry-goodsshops。Thereareseasons，Isuppose，whentheseshopsarecrowded，butIhaveneverhappenedtobeinPortsmouthatthetime。Iseldompassthroughthenarrowcobble-pavedstreetwithoutwonderingwherethecustomersarethatmustkeepalltheseflourishinglittleestablishmentsgoing。
CongressStreet——amoreelegantthoroughfarethanMarket——istheNevskiProspektofPortsmouth。AmongtheprominentbuildingsistheAthenaeum，containingareading-roomandlibrary。Fromthehighroofofthisbuildingthestrollerwilldowelltotakeaglanceatthesurroundingcountry。Hewillnaturallyturnseawardforthemorepicturesqueaspects。Ifthedayisclear，hewillseethefamousIsleofShoals，lyingninemilesaway——Appledore，Smutty-Nose，StarIsland，WhiteIsland，etc。；
therearenineoftheminall。OnAppledoreisLaighton’sHotel，andnearitthesummercottageofCeliaThaxter，thepoetoftheIsles。OnthenorthernendofStarIslandisthequainttownofGosport，withatinystonechurchperchedlikeasea-gullonitshighestrock。AmilesouthwestformStarIslandliesWhiteIsland，onwhichisalighthouse。Mrs。Thaxtercallsthisthemostpicturesqueofthegroup。Perilousneighbors，Omariner！inanybuttheserenestweather，thesewrinkled，scarred，arestorm-smittenrocks，flankedbywickedsunkenledgesthatgrowwhiteatthelipwithragewhenthegreatwindsblow！
Howpeacefulitalllooksoffthere，onthesmoothemeraldsea！
andhowsoftlythewavesseemtobreakonyonderpointwheretheunfinishedfortis！ThatistheancienttownofNewcastle，toreachwhichfromPortsmouthyouhavetocrossthreebridgeswiththemostenchantingsceneryinNewHampshirelyingoneitherhand。AtNewcastlethepoetStedmanhasbuiltforhissummeringsanenviablelittlestonechateau——aseashellintowhichIfancythesirenscreeptowarmthemselvesduringthewintermonths。Soitisneverwithoutitssinger。
OppositeNewcastleisKitteryPoint，aromanticspot，whereSirWilliamPepperell，thefirstAmericanbaronet，oncelived，andwherehistombnowis，inhisorchardacrosstheroad，afewhundredyardsfromthe"goodlymansion"hebuilt。Theknight’stombandtheoldPepperellHouse，whichhasbeensomewhatcurtailedofitfairproportions，aretheobjectsoffrequentpilgrimagestoKitteryPoint。
Fromtheelevation（theroofoftheAthenaeun）thenavyyard，theriverwithitsbridgesandislands，theclusteredgablesofKitteryandNewcastle，theillimitableoceanbeyondmakeapictureworthclimbingfourorfiveflightsofstairstogazeupon。Glancingdownonthetownnestledinthefoliage，itseemslikeatowndroppedbychanceinthemidstofaforest。Amongtheprominentobjectswhichliftthemselvesabovethetreetopsarethebelfriesofthevariouschurches，thewhitefa鏰deofthecustomhouse，andthemansardandchimneysoftheRockingham，theprincipalhotel。ThepilgrimwillbesurprisedtofindinPortsmouthoneofthemostcompletelyappointedhotelsintheUnitedStates。TheantiquarianmaylamentthedemolitionoftheoldBellTavern，andthinkregretfullyofthegoodcheeroncefurnishedthewayfarerbyMasterStaversatthesignoftheEarlofHalifax，andbyMasterStoodleyathisinnonDanielStreet；
buttheordinarytravelerwillthankhisstars，andconfessthathislineshavefalleninpleasantplaces，whenhefindshimselfamongthefrescoesoftheRockingham。
ObliquelyoppositethedoorstepoftheAthenaeum——wearesupposedtobeonterrafirmaagain——standstheOldNorthChurch，asubstantialwoodenbuilding，handsomelysetonwhatiscalledTheParade，alargeopenspaceformedbythejunctionofCongress，Market，Daniel，andPleasantstreets。Hereindaysinnocentofwater-worksstoodthetownpump，whichonmorethanoneoccasionservedaswhipping-post。
ThechurchesofPortsmoutharemoreremarkablefortheirnumberthantheirarchitecture。WiththeexceptionoftheStoneChurchtheyareconstructedofwoodorplainbrickinthesimpleststyle。St。John’sChurchistheonlyonelikelytoattracttheeyeofastranger。ItisfinelysituatedonthecrestofChurchHill，overlookingtheever-beautifulriver。Thepresentedificewasbuiltin1808onthesiteofwhatwasknownasQueen’sChapel，erectedin1732，anddestroyedbyfireDecember24，1806。
ThechapelwasnamedinhonorofQueenCaroline，whofurnishedthebooksforthealtarandpulpit，theplate，andtwosolidmahoganychairs，whicharestillinuseinSt。John’s。Withinthechancelrailisacuriousfontofporphyry，takenbyColonelJohnTuftonMasonatthecaptureofSenegalfromtheFrenchin1758，andpresentedtotheEpiscopalSocietyon1761。Thepeculiarlysweet-tonedbellwhichcallstheparishionersofSt。
John’stogethereverySabbathis，Ibelieve，thesamethatformerlyhunginthebelfryoftheoldQueen’sChapel。Ifso，thebellhasahistoryofitsown。ItwasbroughtfromLouisburgatthetimeofthereductionofthatplacein1745，andgiventothechurchbytheofficersoftheNewHampshiretroops。
TheOldSouthMeeting-Houseisnottobepassedwithoutmention。
Itisamongthemostagedsurvivalsofpre-revolutionarydays。
Neitheritsarchitecturenotitsage，however，isitschiefwarrantforournotice。Theabsurdnumberofwindowsinthisbatteredoldstructureiswhatstrikesthepasser-by。Thechurchwaserectedbysubscription，andthesecloselysetlargewindowsareduetoHenrySherburne，oneofthewealthiestcitizensoftheperiod，whoagreedtopayforwhateverglasswasused。Ifthebuildingcouldhavebeencomposedentirelyofglassitwouldhavebeendonebythethriftyparishioners。
Portsmouthisrichingraveyards——theyseemtobeaNewEnglandspecialty——ancientandmodern。Amongtheoldburial-placestheoneattachedtoSt。John’sChurchisperhapsthemostinteresting。Ithasnotbeenpermittedtofallintoruin，liketheoldcemeteryatthePointofGraves。Whenaheadstoneheretopplesoveritiskindlyliftedupandsetonitspinsagain，andencouragedtodoitsduty。Ifitutterlyrefuses，andisnotshammingdecrepitude，ithasitsfacesponged，andisallowedtorestandsunitselfagainstthewallofthechurchwitharowofotherexempts。Thetreesarekeptpruned，thegrasstrimmed，andhereandthereisarosebushdroopingwithaweightofpensivepaleroses，asbecomesarosebushinachurchyard。
Theplacehasaboutitanindescribablesoothingatmosphereofrespectabilityandcomfort。HereresttheremainsoftheprincipalandloftiestinrankintheirgenerationofthecitizensofPortsmouthpriortotheRevolution——stanch，royalty-lovinggovernors，counselors，andsecretariesoftheProvidenceofNewHampshire，allsnuglygatheredunderthemotherlywingoftheChurchofEngland。Itisalmostimpossibletowalkanywherewithoutsteppingonagovernor。Yougrowhaughtyinspiritafterawhile，andscorntotreadonanythinglessthanoneofHisMajesty’scolonelsorsecretaryundertheCrown。HerearethetombsoftheAtkinsons，theJaffreys，theSherburnes，theSheafes，theMarshes，theMannings，theGardners，andothersofthequality。Allaroundyouunderfootaretumbled-incoffins，withhereandtherearustyswordatop，andfadedescutcheons，andcrumblingarmorialdevices。Youaremovingintheverybestsociety。
This，however，isnottheearliestcemeteryinPortsmouth。Anhour’swalkfromtheEpiscopalyardwillbringyoutothespot，alreadymentioned，wherethefirsthousewasbuiltandthefirstgravemade，atOdiorne’sPoint。TheexactsiteoftheManorisnotknown，butitissupposedtobeafewrodsnorthofanoldwellofstill-flowingwater，atwhichtheTomsonsandtheHiltonsandtheircomradesslakedtheirthirstmorethantwohundredandsixtyyearsago。Oriorne’sPointisownedbyMr。EbenL。Odiorne，alinealdescendantoftheworthywhoheldthepropertyin1657。
Notfarfromtheoldspringistheresting-placeoftheearliestpioneers。
"ThisfirstcemeteryofthewhitemaninNewHampshire，"writesMr。Brewster，（1。Mr。CharlesW。Brewster，fornearlyfiftyyearstheeditorofthePortsmouthJournal，andtheauthoroftwovolumesoflocalsketchestowhichthewriterofthesepageshereacknowledgeshisindebtedness。）"occupiesaspaceofperhapsonehundredfeetbyninety，andiswellwalledin。Thewesternsideisnowusedasaburial-placeforthefamily，buttwothirdsofitisfilledwithperhapsfortygraves，indicatedbyroughheadandfootstones。Whothererestnoonenowlivingknows。Butthesamecareistakenoftheirquietbedsasiftheywereoftheproprietor’sownfamily。In1631Masonsentoverabouteightyemigrantsmanyofwhomdiedinafewyears，andheretheywereprobablyburied。Heretoo，doubtless，resttheremainsofseveralofthosewhosenamesstandconspicuousinourearlystaterecords。"
IV。
ASTROLLABOUTTOWN（continued）
WHENWashingtonvisitedPortsmouthin1789hewasnotmuchimpressedbythearchitectureofthelittletownthathadstoodbyhimsostoutlyinthestruggleforindependence。"Therearesomegoodhouses，"hewrites，inadiarykeptthatyearduringatourthroughConnecticut，Massachusetts，andNewHampshire，"
amongwhichColonelLangdon’smaybeesteemedthefirst；butingeneraltheyareindifferent，andalmostentirelyofwood。Onwonderingatthis，asthecountryisfullofstoneandgoodclayforbricks，Iwastoldthatonaccountofthefogsanddamptheydeemedthemwholesomer，andforthatreasonpreferredwoodbuildings。"
ThehouseofColonelLangdon，onPleasantStreet，isanexcellentsampleofthesolidanddignifiedabodeswhichourgreat-grandsireshadthesensetobuild。Theartoftheirconstructionseemstohavebeenalostartthesefiftyyears。
HereGovernorJohnLangdonresidedfrom1782untilthetimeofhisdeathin1819——aperiodduringwhichmanyanillustriousmanpassedbetweenthosetwowhitepillarsthatsupportthelittlebalconyoverthefrontdoor；amongtherestLouisPhilippeandhisbrothers，theDucsdeMontpensierandBeaujolais，andtheMarquisdeChastellus，amajor-generalintheFrencharmy，servingundertheCountdeRochambeau，whomheaccompaniedfromFrancetotheStatesin1780。Thejournalofthemarquiscontainsthisreferencetohishost："AfterdinnerwewenttodrinkteawithMr。Langdon。Heisahandsomeman，andofnoblecarriage；hehasbeenamemberofCongress，andisnowoneofthefirstpeopleofthecountry；hishouseiselegantandwellfurnished，andtheapartmentsadmirablywellwainscoted"（thisreadslikeMr。SamuelPepys）；"andhehasagoodmanuscriptchartoftheharborofPortsmouth。Mrs。Langdon，hiswife，isyoung，fair，andtolerablyhandsome，butIconversedlesswithherthanherhusband，inwhosefavorIwasprejudicedfromknowingthathehaddisplayedgreatcourageandpatriotismatthetimeofBurgoynes’sexpedition。"
ItwasattheheightoftheFrenchRevolutionthatthethreesonsoftheDued’OrleanswereentertainedattheLangdonmansion。
Yearsafterward，whenLouisPhilippewasonthethroneofFrance，heinquiredofaPortsmouthladypresentedathiscourtifthemansionofcebraveGouverneurLangdonwasstillinexistence。
Thehousestandsbackadecorousdistancefromthestreet，undertheshadowsofsomegiganticoaksorelms，andpresentsanimposingappearanceasyouapproachitoverthetessellatedmarblewalk。Ahundredortwofeetoneithersideofthegate，andabuttingonthestreet，isasmallsquarebuildingofbrick，onestoryinheight——probablytheporter’slodgeandtool-houseofformerdays。Thereisalargefruitgardenattachedtothehouse，whichisinexcellentcondition，takinglifecomfortably，andhavingthecomplacentairofawell-preservedbeauoftheancienregime。TheLangdonmansionwasownedandlongoccupiedbythelateRev。Dr。Burroughs，foraperiodofforty-sevenyearstheesteemedrectororSt。John’sChurch。
AttheotherendofPleasantStreetisanothernotablehouse，towhichweshallcomebyandby。ThoughPresidentWashingtonfoundPortsmouthbutmoderatelyattractivefromanarchitecturalpointofview，thevisitorofto-day，ifhehaveanantiquariantaste，willfindhimselfembarrassedbythenumberoflocalitiesandbuildingsthatappealtohisinterest。ManyofthesebuildingswerenewandundoubtedlycommonplaceenoughatthedateofWashington’svisit；timeandassociationhavegiventhemaquaintnessandasignificancewhichnowmaketheirarchitectureaquestionofsecondaryimportance。