——allhavelefttheirrecordsorbeencelebratedatKarnak。PurposelyImingledtheminmymind——didnotattempttoputthemintheirproperorder，oreventodisentanglegodsandgoddessesfromconquerorsandkings。InthewarmandseductivenightKhunswhisperedtome："AslongagoatBekhtenIexorcisedthedemonfromthesufferingPrincess，sonowIexorcisefromtheseruinsallspiritsbutmyown。To-nighttheseruinsshallsuggestnothingbutmajesty，tranquillity，andbeauty。
　　TheirrecordsareforRa，andmustbestudiedbyhisrays。Inminetheyshallspeaknottotheintellectual，butonlytotheemotionsandthesoul。"
　　AndpresentlyIwentdown，andyieldingacompleteandhappyobediencetoKhuns，Iwanderedalongthroughthestupendousvestigesofpasteras，deadambitions，vanishedglory，andlong-outwornbelief，andI
　　ignorederas，ambitions，glory，andbelief，andthoughtonlyofform，andheight，ofthemiracleofblacknessagainstsilver，andofthepathosofstatueswhoseever-openeyesatnight，whenoneisnearthem，suggesttheworkingofsomeevilspell，perpetualwatchfulness，combinedwitheternalinactivity，theunslumberingmindcagedinthebodythatisparalysed。
　　ThereisatempleatKarnakthatIlove，andIscarcelyknowwhyI
　　careforitsomuch。ItisontherightofthesolitarylotuscolumnbeforeyoucometotheterrifichallofSeti。Somepeoplepassitby，havingbutlittletime，andbeinghypnotized，itseems，bythemoreastoundingruinthatliesbeyondit。Andperhapsitwouldbewell，onafirstvisit，toenteritlast;toletitsinfluencebethefinalonetorestuponyourspirit。ThisisthetempleofRamesesIII。，abrownplaceofcalmandretirement，anineffableplaceofpeace。Yes，thoughthebirdsloveitandfillitoftenwiththeirvoices，itisasanctuaryofpeace。Uponthefloorthesoftsandlies，placingsilencebeneathyourfootsteps。Thepalebrownofwallsandcolumns，almostyellowinthesunshine，isdelicateandsoothing，andinclinesthehearttocalm。Delicious，suggestiveofabeautifultapestry，richandornate，yetalwaysquiet，arethebrownreliefsuponthestone。Whatarethey？Doesitmatter？Theysoftenthewalls，makethemmorepersonal，moretender。Thatsurelyistheirmission。Thistempleholdsformeaspell。AssoonasIenterit，Ifeelthetouchofthelotus，asifaninvisibleandkindlyhandsweptablossomlightlyacrossmyfaceanddownwardtomyheart。Thiscourtyard，thesesmallchambersbeyondit，thatlastdoorwayframingalovelydarkness，soothemeevenmorethantheterra-cottahermitagesoftheCertosaofPavia。Andallthestatuesherearecalmwithanirrevocablecalmness，faithfulthroughpassingyearswithaverysoberfaithfulnesstothetempletheyadorn。Innootherplace，onefeelsit，couldtheybethusatpeace，withhandscrossedforeverupontheirbreasts，whicharetornbynoanxieties，thrilledbynojoys。Asonestandsamongthemorsittingonthebaseofacolumninthechamberthatliesbeyondthem，looksonthemfromalittledistance，theirattitudeislikeasummonstomentocontendnomore，tobestill，toenterintorest。
　　CometothistemplewhenyouleavethehallofSeti。Thereyouareinaplaceoftriumph。Scarlet，somesay，isthecolorofagreatnotesoundedonabugle。Thishallislikeabugle-callofthepast，thrillingevennowdownalltheageswithatriumphthatissurelygreaterthananyothertriumphs。Itsuggestsblaze——blazeofscarlet，blazeofbugle，blazeofglory，blazeoflifeandtime，ofambitionandachievement。Inthesecolumns，intheputtingupofthem，deadmensoughttoclimbtosunandstars，limitlessindesire，limitlessinindustry，limitlessinwill。Andatthetopsofthecolumnsbloomsthelotus，thesymbolofrising。Whatatriumphinstonethishallwasonce，whatatriumphinstoneitsruinisto-day！Perhaps，amongtemples，itisthemostwondrousthinginallEgypt，asitwas，nodoubt，themostwondroustempleintheworld;amongtemplesIsay，fortheSphinxisofallthemarvelsofEgyptbyfarthemostmarvellous。
　　Thegrandeurofthishallalmostmovesonetotears，likethemarchingpastofconquerors，stirstheheartwithleapingthrillsatthecapacitiesofmen。Throughthethicketofcolumns，tallasforesttrees，theintenseblueoftheAfricanskystaresdown，andtheirgreatshadowsliealongthewarmandsunlitground。Listen！Therearevoiceschanting。Menareworkinghere——workingasmenworkedhowmanythousandsofyearsago。ButthesearecallingupontheMohammedan’sgodastheyslowlydragtotheappointedplacesthemightyblocksofstone。Anditisto-dayaFrenchmanwhooverseesthem。
　　"Help！Help！Allahgiveushelp！
　　Help！Help！Allahgiveushelp！"
　　Thedustfliesupabouttheirnakedfeet。Triumphandwork;worksucceededbythetriumphallcansee。Iliketoheartheworkmen’svoiceswithinthehallofSeti。Iliketoseetheduststirredbytheirtrampingfeet。
　　AndthenIliketogooncemoretothelittletemple，toenterthroughitsdefacedgateway，tostandaloneinitssilencebetweentherowsofstatueswiththeirarmsfoldedupontheirquietbreasts，togazeintothetenderdarknessbeyond——thedarknessthatlooksconsecrated——tofeelthatpeaceismorewonderfulthantriumph，thattheendofthingsispeace。
　　Triumphanddeathlesspeace，thebugle-callandsilence——thesearethenotesofKarnak。
　　VIII
　　LUXOR
　　UponthewallofthegreatcourtofAmenhotepIII。inthetempleofLuxorthereisadeliciousdancingprocessioninhonorofRamesesII。
　　Itisveryfunnyandveryhappy;fullofthejoyoflife——asortofradiantcake-walkofoldEgyptiandays。Howsupplearethesedancers！
　　Theyseemtohavenobones。Oneafteranothertheycomeinlineuponthemightywall，andeachonebendsbackwardtothekneesoftheonewhofollows。AsIstoodandlookedatthemforthefirsttime，almostIheardthetwitterofflutes，therusticwailoftheAfricanhautboy，themonotonousboomofthederabukkeh，criesofafar-offgaietysuchasoneoftenhearsfromtheNilebynight。Butthesecriescamedownthelongavenuesofthecenturies;thisgaietywasdistantinthevastyhallsofthelong-deadyears。NevercanIthinkofLuxorwithoutthinkingofthosehappydancers，withoutthinkingofthelifethatgoesinthesunondancingfeet。
　　Thereareafewplacesintheworldthatoneassociateswithhappiness，thatoneremembersalwayswithasmile，alittlethrillattheheartthatwhispers"Therejoyis。"OfthesefewplacesLuxorisone——Luxorthehomeofsunshine，thesuaveabodeoflight，ofwarmth，ofthesweetdaysofgoldandsheeny，goldensunsets，ofsilver，shimmeringnightsthroughwhichthesongsoftheboatmenoftheNilegofloatingtothecourtsandthetombsofThebes。TherosesbloominLuxorunderthemightypalms。Alwayssurelybeneaththepalmstherearetheroses。Andthelateen-sailscomeuptheNile，lookinglikewhite-wingedpromisesoffuturegoldendays。Andatdawnonewakeswithhopeandhearsthesongsofthedawn;andatnoononedreamsofthehappinesstocome;andatsunsetoneissweptawayonthegoldintotheheartofthegoldenworld;andatnightonelooksatthestars，andeachstarisatwinklinghope。SoftaretheairsofLuxor;
　　thereisnoharshnessinthewindthatstirstheleavesofthepalms。
　　Andthelandissteepedinlight。FromLuxoronegoeswithregret。Onereturnstoitwithjoyondancingfeet。
　　OnedayIsatinthetemple，inthehugecourtwiththegreatdoublerowofcolumnsthatstandsonthebanksoftheNileandlookssosplendidfromit。Thepalebrownofthestonebecamealmostyellowinthesunshine。Fromtheriver，hiddenfrommestoleupthesongsoftheboatmen。NearerathandIheardpigeonscooing，cooinginthesun，asifalmosttooglad，andseekingtomanifesttheirgladness。Behindme，throughthecolumns，peepedsomehousesofthevillage：thewhitehomeofIbrahimAyyad，theperfectdragoman，grandsonofMustaphaAga，whoentertainedmeyearsago，andwhosehousestoodactuallywithintheprecinctsofthetemple;housesofotherfortunatedwellersinLuxorwhosenamesIdonotknow。ForthevillageofLuxorcrowdsboldlyaboutthetemple，andthechildrenplayinthedustalmostatthefootoftheobelisksandstatues。Highonabrownhumpofearthabuffalostoodalone，languishingserenelyinthesun，gazingatmethroughthecolumnswithlighteyesthatwerefullofasortoffollyofcontentment。Somegoatstrippedby，brownagainstthebrownstone——thedarkbrownearthofthenativehouses。Intimatelifewashere，strikingthenoteofcozinessofLuxor。HerewasnoneofthesadnessandthemajestyofDenderah。GrandaretheruinsofLuxor，nobleisthelineofcolumnsthatboldlyfrontstheNile，butTimehasgiventhemnakedtotheairandtothesun，tochildrenandtoanimals。
　　Insteadofbats，thepigeonsflyaboutthem。Thereisnodreadfuldarknessintheirsanctuaries。Beforethemthelifeoftheriver，behindthemthelifeofthevillageflowsandstirs。UponthemlooksdowntheMinaretofAbuHaggag;andasIsatinthesunshine，thewarmthofwhichbegantolessen，Isawuponitsloftycircularbalconythefigureofthemuezzin。Heleanedover，bendingtowardthetempleandthestatuesofRamesesII。andthehappydancersonthewall。Heopenedhislipsandcriedtothem：
　　"Godisgreat。Godisgreat……IbearwitnessthatthereisnogodbutGod……IbearwitnessthatMohammedistheApostleofGod……Cometoprayer！Cometoprayer！……Godisgreat。Godisgreat。ThereisnogodbutGod。"
　　Hecircledroundtheminaret。HecriedtotheNile。HecriedtotheColossisittingintheirplain，andtotheyellowprecipicesofthemountainsofLibya。HecriedtoEgypt：
　　"Cometoprayer！Cometoprayer！ThereisnogodbutGod。ThereisnogodbutGod。"
　　Thedaysofthegodsweredead，andtheirruinedtempleechoedwiththeproclamationoftheonegodoftheMoslemworld。"Cometoprayer！
　　Cometoprayer！"Thesunbegantosink。
　　"Sunsetandeveningstar，andoneclearcallforme。"
　　Thevoiceofthemuezzindiedaway。Therewasasilence;andthen，asifinanswertothecryfromtheminaret，IheardthechimeoftheangelusbellfromtheCatholicchurchofLuxor。
　　"Twilightandeveningbell，andafterthatthedark。"
　　Isatverystill。Thelightwasfading;alltheyellowwasfading，too，fromthecolumnsandthetemplewalls。Istayedtillitwasdark;
　　andwiththedarktheoldgodsseemedtoresumetheirinterruptedsway。Andsurelythey，too，calledtoprayer。FordonottheseruinsofoldEgypt，likethemuezzinupontheminaret，liketheangelusbellinthechurchtower，callonetoprayerinthenight？Sowonderfularetheyunderstarsandmoonthattheystirthefleshlyandtheworldlydesiresthatlielikedriftedleavesaboutthereverenceandtheaspirationthatarethehiddencoreoftheheart。Anditisreleasedfromitsburden;anditawakesandprays。
　　Amun-Ra，Mut，andKhuns，thekingofthegods，hiswife，motherofgods，andthemoongod，weretheThebantriadtowhomtheholybuildingsofThebesonthetwobanksoftheNilewerededicated;andthistempleofLuxor，the"HouseofAmunintheSouthernApt，"wasbuiltfifteenhundredyearsbeforeChristbyAmenhotepIII。RamesesII。，thatvehementbuilder，addedtoitimmensely。OnewalksamonghistraceswhenonewalksinLuxor。Andhere，asatDenderah，Christianshaveletloosethefurythatshouldhavehadnoplaceintheirreligion。Churchesfortheirworshiptheymadeindifferentpartsofthetemple，andwhentheywerenotpraying，theybrokeinpiecesstatues，defacedbas-reliefs，andsmashedupshrineswithavigorquiteasgreatasthatdisplayedinpreservationbyChristiansofto-day。Nowtimehascalledatruce。Safearethestatuesthatareleft。Anddaybydaytwogreatreligions，almostasifinhappybrotherlylove，sendforththeirsummonsbythetemplewalls。Andjustbeyondthosewalls，uponthehill，thereisaCopticchurch。PeacereignsinhappyLuxor。Thelionliesdownwiththelamb，andthechild，ifitwill，mayharmlesslyputitshandintothecockatrice’sden。
　　Perhapsbecauseitissosurrounded，sohauntedbylifeandfamiliarthings，becausethepigeonsflyaboutit，thebuffalostaresintoit，thegoatsstirupthedustbesideitscolumns，thetwitteringvoicesofwomenmakeamusicnearitscourts，manypeoplepaylittleheedtothisgreattemple，gainbutasmallimpressionfromit。ItdecoratesthebankoftheNile。Youcanseeitfromthedahabiyehs。Formanythatisenough。Yetthetempleisanobleone，and，forme，itgainsadefiniteattractionallitsownfromthebusylifeaboutit，thecheerfulhumandstir。Andifyouwantfullytorealizeitsdignity，youcanalwaysvisititbynight。Thenthecriesfromthevillagearehushed。Thehousesshownolights。OnlythevoicesfromtheNilestealuptotheobeliskofRameses，tothepylonfromwhichtheflagsofThebesonceflewonfestaldays，totheshrineofAlexandertheGreat，withitsvulturesanditsstars，andtotheredgranitestatuesofRamesesandhiswives。
　　Theselastareasexpressiveasandofcoursemoredefinitethanmydancers。Theyarefullofcharacter。Theyseemtobreatheouttheessenceofavanisheddomesticity。Colossalarethestatuesoftheking，solid，powerful，andtremendous，boldlyfacingtheworldwiththecalmofonewhowasthought，andpossiblythoughthimself，tobenotmuchlessthanadeity。Anduponeachpedestal，shrinkingdelicatelyback，wasoncealittlewife。Somelittlewivesareleft。
　　Theyaredeliciousintheirmodesty。Eachstandsawayfromtheking，shyly，respectfully。Eachissosmallastobebelowhisdown-
　　stretchedarm。Each，withasurelyfurtivegesture，reachesoutherrighthand，andattainstheswellingcalfofhernoblehusband’sleg。
　　Plumparetheirlittlefaces，butnotbad-looking。Onecannotpitytheking。Nordoesonepitythem。Forthesewerenot"Lesdesenchantees，"
　　therestless，sad-heartedwomenofanEasternworldthatknowstoomuch。Theirlongingssurelycannothavebeenverygreat。TheirworldwasprobablyboundedbythecalfofRameses’sleg。Thatwas"thefarhorizon"ofthelittleplump-facedwives。
　　Thehappydancersandthehumblewives，theyalwayscomebeforemewiththetempleofLuxor——joyanddiscretionsidebyside。Andwiththem，tomyears，thetwovoicesseemtocome，muezzinandangelusbell，minglingnotinwar，butpeace。WhenIthinkofthistemple，I
　　thinkofitsjoyandpeacefarlessthanofitsmajesty。
　　Andyetitismajestic。Lookatit，asIhaveoftendone，towardsunsetfromthewesternbankoftheNile，orclimbthemoundbeyonditsnorthernend，wherestandsthegrandentrance，andyourealizeatonceitsnobilityandsolemnsplendor。Fromthe/Loulia’s/deckitwasaprocessionofgreatcolumns;thatwasall。Butthedecorativeeffectofthesecolumns，soaringabovetheriveranditsvividlife，isfine。
　　Bydayallisturmoilontheriver-bank。Bargesareunloading，steamersarearriving，andthrongsofdonkey-boysanddragomansgodowninhastetomeetthem。Servantsruntoandfroonerrandsfromthemanydahabiyehs。Bathersleapintothebrownwaters。Thenativecraftpassbywiththeirenormoussailsoutspreadtocatchthewind，bearingserriedmobsofmen，andblack-robedwomen，andlaughing，singingchildren。Theboatmenofthehotelssingmonotonouslyastheyloungeinthebig，whiteboatswaitingfortravellerstoMedinet-Abu，totheRamesseum，toKurna，andthetombs。Andjustabovethemrisethelonglinesofcolumns，ancient，tranquil，andremote——infinitelyremote，foralltheirnearness，castingdownuponthesunlitgaietythelongshadowofthepast。
　　Fromtheedgeofthemoundwherestandsthenativevillagetheeffectofthetempleismuchlessdecorative，butitsdetailedgrandeurcanbebettergraspedfromthere;forfromthereoneseesthegreattowersofthepropylon，tworowsofmightycolumns，theredgraniteObeliskofRamesesthegreat，andtheblackgranitestatuesoftheking。Ontherightoftheentranceagiantstands，ontheleftoneisseated，andalittlefartherawayathirdemergesfromtheground，whichreachestoitsmightybreast。
　　Andtherethechildrenplayperpetually。AndtheretheEgyptianssingtheirserenades，makingthepipeswailandstrikingthederabukkeh;
　　andtherethewomengossipandtwitterlikethebirds。Andthebuffalocomestotakehissun-bath;andthegoatsandthecurly，brownsheeppassinsprightlyandcalmprocessions。Theobeliskthere，likeitsbrotherinParis，presidesoveracheerfulnessoflife;butitisalifethatseemsakintoit，notalienfromit。AndthekingwatchesthesimplicityofthiskeenexistenceofEgyptofto-dayfaruptheNilewithacalmthatonedoesnotfearmaybebrokenbyunsympatheticoutrage，orbyanyvisionoftooperpetualforeignlife。ForthetouristseachyeararebutanepisodeinUpperEgypt。Stilltheshadoof-mansingshisancientsong，violentandpathetic，boldastheburningsun-rays。Stillthefellaheenploughwiththecamelyokedwiththeox。Stillthewomenarecoveredwithprotectiveamuletsandholdtheirblackdraperiesintheirmouths。TheintimatelifeoftheNileremainsthesame。Andthatlifeobeliskandkinghaveknownforhowmany，manyyears！
　　AndsoIlovetothinkofthisintimacyoflifeaboutthetempleofthehappydancersandthehumblelittlewives，anditseemstometostrikethekeynoteofthegoldencozinessofLuxor。
　　IX
　　COLOSSIOFMEMNON
　　Nevertheless，sometimesonelikestoescapefromthethingoneloves，andtherearehourswhenthegayvoicesofLuxorfatiguetheears，whenonedesiresagreatcalm。Thentherearesilentvoicesthatsummononeacrosstheriver，whenthedawnisbreakingoverthehillsoftheArabiandesert，orwhenthesunisdecliningtowardtheLibyanmountains——voicesissuingfromlipsofstone，fromthetwilightofsanctuaries，fromthedepthsofrock-hewntombs。
　　ThepeaceoftheplainofThebesintheearlymorningisveryrareandveryexquisite。Itisnotthepeaceofthedesert，butrather，perhaps，thepeaceoftheprairie——anatmospheretender，delicatelythrilling，softlybright，hopefulinitsgleamingcalm。OftenandoftenhaveIleftthe/Loulia/veryearlymooredagainstthelongsandisletthatfacesLuxorwhentheNilehasnotsubsided，Ihaverowedacrossthequietwaterthatdividedmefromthewesternbank，and，withahappyheart，IhaveenteredintothelovelypeaceofthegreatspacesthatstretchfromtheColossiofMemnontotheNile，tothemountains，southwardtowardArmant，northwardtoKerekten，toDanfik，toGueziret-Meteira。Thinkofthecolorofyoungclover，ofyoungbarley，ofyoungwheat;thinkofthetimbreofthereedflute’svoice，thin，clear，andfrailwiththefrailtyofdewdrops;thinkofthetorrentsofspringrushingthroughtheveinsofagreat，wideland，andgrowingalmoststillatlastontheirjourney。Spring，youwillsay，perhaps，andhighNilenotyetsubsided！ButEgyptisthefavoredlandofaspringthatisalreadyalertattheendofNovember，andinDecemberispushingforthitsgreen。TheNilehassunkawayfromthefeetoftheColossithatithasbathedthroughmanydays。Ithasfreedtheplaintothefellaheen，thoughstillitkeepsmyislandinitsclasp。AndHapi，orKam-wra，the"GreatExtender，"andRa，havemadethiswonderfulspringtobloomonthedarkearthbeforetheChristian’sChristmas。
　　Whatapastoralitis，thisplainofThebes，inthedawnofday！Thinkofthereedflute，Ihavesaid，notbecauseyouwillhearit，asyouridetowardthemountains，butbecauseitsvoicewouldbeutterlyinplacehere，inthisarcadyofEgypt，playingnotarantella，butoneofthosesongs，halfbird-like，andhalfsadly，mysteriouslyhuman，whichcomefromthesouloftheEast。Insteadofit，youmaycatchdistantcriesfromthebankoftheriver，wheretheshadoof-mantoils，liftingeverthewaterandhisvoice，theonetoearth，theother，itseems，tosky;andthecreakinglayofthewater-wheel，whichpervadesUpperEgyptlikeanatmosphere，andwhich，thoughperhapsatfirstitirritates，atlastseemstoyouthesoundofthesouloftheriver，ofthesunshine，andthesoil。
　　Muchofthelandlookspainted。Soflatisit，soyoungarethegrowingcrops，thattheyarelikeacoatingofgreenpaintspreadoveramightycanvas。Butthedourariseshigherthantheheadsofthenakedchildrenwhostandamongittowatchyoucanterpast。Andinthefardistanceyouseedimgroupsoftrees——sycamoresandacacias，tamarisksandpalms。Beyondthemistheveryheartofthis"landofsandandruinsandgold";Medinet-Abu，theRamesseum，Deir-elMedinet，Kurna，Deir-el-Bahari，thetombsofthekings，thetombsofthequeensandoftheprinces。Inthestripofbarelandatthefootofthosehard，andyetpoeticmountains，havebeenduguptreasuresthefameofwhichhasgonetotheendsoftheworld。Butthisplain，wherethefellaheenarestoopingtothesoil，andthewomenarecarryingthewater-jars，andthechildrenareplayinginthedoura，andtheoxenandthecamelsareworkingwithploughsthatlooklikerelicsoffar-
　　offdays，isthepossessionofthetwogreatpresidingbeingswhomyouseefromanenormousdistance，theColossiofMemnon。AmenhotepIII。
　　putthemwheretheyare。Sowearetold。Butinthisearlymorningitisnotpossibletothinkofthemasbeingbroughttoanyplace。
　　Seated，theonebesidetheother，facingtheNileandthehomeoftherisingsun，theirimmenseaspectofpatiencesuggestswill，calmly，steadilyexercised，suggestschoice;that，forsomereason，asyetunknown，theychosetocometothisplain，thattheychoosesolemnlytoremainthere，waiting，whiletheharvestsgrowandaregatheredabouttheirfeet，whiletheNilerisesandsubsides，whiletheyearsandthegenerationscome，liketheharvests，andarestoredawayinthegranariesofthepast。Theircalmbroodsoverthisplain，givestoitapersonalatmospherewhichsetsitquiteapartfromeveryotherflatspaceoftheworld。ThereisnoplacethatIknowontheearthwhichhasthepeculiar，bright，ineffablecalmoftheplainoftheseColossi。Ittakesyouintoitsbreast，andyouliethereinthegrowingsunshinealmostasifyouwereachildlaidinthelapofoneofthem。Thatlegendofthesingingatdawnofthe"vocalMemnon，"howcouldithavearisen？Howcouldsuchcalmnesssing，suchpatienceeverfindavoice？UnliketheSphinx，whichbecomesevermoreimpressiveasyoudrawneartoit，andismostimpressivewhenyousitalmostatitsfeet，theColossiloseinpersonalityasyouapproachthemandcanseehowtheyhavebeendefaced。
　　Fromafaronefeelstheirminds，theirstrange，unearthlytemperamentscommandingthispastoral。Whenyouarebesidethem，thisfeelingdisappears。Theirfeaturesaregone，andthoughintheirattitudesthereispower，andthereissomethingthatawakensawe，theyaremorewonderfulasafar-offfeatureoftheplain。Theygainingrandeurfromthenightinstrangenessfromthemoonrise，perhapsspeciallywhentheNilecomestotheirfeet。Morethanthreethousandyearsold，theylooklesseternalthantheSphinx。Likethem，theSphinxiswaiting，butwithagreaterpurpose。TheSphinxreducesmanreallytonothingness。TheColossileavehimsomeremnantsofindividuality。OnecanconceiveofStraboandAEliusGallus，ofHadrianandSabina，ofotherswhocameoverthesunlitlandtoheartheunearthlysonginthedawn，beingofsome——notmuch，butstillofsome——importancehere。
　　BeforetheSphinxnooneisimportant。ButinthedistanceoftheplaintheColossishedarealmagicofcalmandsolemnpersonality，andsubtlyseemtomingletheirspiritwiththeflat，greenworld，sowide，sostill，sofecund，andsopeaceful;withthesoftairsthataresurelyscentedwithaneternalspringtime，andwiththelightthatthemorningrainsdownonwheatandclover，onIndiancornandbarley，andonbrownmenlaboring，who，perhaps，fromthepatienceoftheColossiinreposehavedrawnapatienceinlaborthathasinitsomethingnotlesssublime。
　　FromtheColossionegoesonwardtowardthetreesandthemountains，andverysoononecomestotheedgeofthatstrangeandfascinatingstripofbarrenlandwhichisstrewnwithtemplesandhoneycombedwithtombs。Thesunburnsdownonit。Theheatseemsthrownbackuponitbythewalloftawnymountainsthatboundsitonthewest。Itisdusty，itisarid;itishauntedbyswarmsofflies，bytheguardiansoftheruins，andbymenandboystryingtosellenormousscarabsandnecklacesandamulets，madeyesterday，andthedaybefore，inthemanufactoryofKurna。Frommanypointsitlooksnotunlikeastrangelyprolongedrubbish-heapinwhichbusygiantshavebeendiggingwithhugespades，makingmoundsandpits，cavernsandtrenches，pilinguphereamonstrousheapofstones，castingdownthereamightystatue。
　　Buthowitfascinates！Ofcurseoneknowswhatitmeans。OneknowsthatonthisstripoflandNavilledugoutatDeir-el-BaharithetempleofMentu-hotep，anddiscoveredlater，inhershrine，Hathor，thecow-goddess，withthelotus-plantsstreamingfromhersacredforeheadtoherfeet;thatlongbeforehimMarietteherebroughttothelightatDrah-abu’l-Neggahthetreasuresofkingsofthetwelfthandthirteenthdynasties;thatatthefootofthosetiger-coloredprecipicesTheodoreM。DavistheAmericanfoundthesepulcherofQueenHatshepsu，theQueenElizabethoftheoldEgyptianworld，and，later，thetombofYuaaandThuaa，theparentsofQueenThiy，containingmummy-casescoveredwithgold，jarsofoilandwine，gold，silver，andalabasterboxes，abeddecoratedwithgildedivoryachairwithgildedplasterreliefs，chairsofstate，andachariot;thathereMaspero，VictorLoret，BrugschBey，andotherpatientworkersgavetotheworldtombsthathadbeenhiddenandunknownforcenturies;thattheretothenorthisthetempleofKurna，andovertheretheRamesseum;thatthoserowsoflittlepillarscloseunderthemountain，andlookingstrangelymodern，arethepillarsofHatshepsu’stemple，whichbearsuponitswallsthepicturesoftheexpeditiontothehistoriclandofPunt;thatthekingswereburiedthere，andtherethequeensandtheprincesofthevanisheddynasties;thatbeyondtothewestisthetempleofDeir-el-Medinetwithitsjudgmentofthedead;thatherebythenativevillageisMedinet-Abu。Oneknowsthat，andsotheimaginationisawake，readytopaintthelilyandtogildthebeatengold。Butevenifonedidnotknow，Ithinkonewouldbefascinated。
　　Thisturmoilofsun-bakedearthandrock，grey，yellow，pink，orange，andred，awakensthecuriosity，summonstheloveofthestrange，suggeststhatitholdssecretstocharmthesoulsofmen。
　　X
　　MEDINET-ABU
　　AttheentrancetothetempleofMedinet-Abu，nearthesmallgroupsofpalmsandthefewbrownhouses，oftenhaveIturnedandlookedbackacrosstheplainbeforeenteringthroughthefirstbeautifuldoorway，toseethepatientbacksandrightsidesoftheColossi，thefar-off，dreamymountainsbeyondKarnakandtheNile。Andagain，whenIhaveenteredandwalkedalittledistance，Ihavelookedbackatthealmostmagicalpictureframedinthedoorway;atthebottomofthepicturealayerofbrownearth，thenastripofsharpgreen——thecultivatedground——thenablurofpaleyellow，thenadarknessoftrees，andjustthehintofahillfar，veryfaraway。Andalways，inlooking，Ihavethoughtofthe"Sposalizio"ofRaphaelintheBreraatMilan，ofthetinydreamofbluecountryframedbythetempledoorwaybeyondtheVirginandSaintJoseph。ThedoorwaysofthetemplesofEgyptareverynoble，andnowherehaveIbeenmorestruckbytheirnobilitythaninMedinet-Abu。Setinhugewallsofmassivemasonry，whichriseslightlyabovethemoneachside，withaprojectingcornice，intheirsimplicitytheylookextraordinarilyclassical，intheirsobrietymysterious，andintheirgreatsolidityquitewonderfullyelegant。Andtheyalwayssuggesttomethattheyaregivingaccesstocourtsandchamberswhichstill，eveninourtimes，arededicatedtosecretcults——tothecultsofIsis，ofHathor，andofOsiris。
　　ClosetotherightofthefrontofMedinet-Abutherearetreescoveredwithyellowflowers;beyondarefieldsofdoura。Behindthetempleisasterilitywhichmakesonethinkofmetal。Agreatcalmenfoldstheplace。ThebuildingsareofthesamecolorastheColossi。WhenI
　　speakofthebuildings，Iincludethegreattemple，thepavilionofRamesesIII。，andthelittletemple，whichtogethermaybesaidtoformMedinet-Abu。WhereasthetempleofLuxorseemstoopenitsarmstolife，andthegreatfascinationoftheRamesseumcomespartlyfromitsinvasionbyeverytravelingairandhappysun-ray，itsopennessandfreedom，Medinet-Abuimpressesbyitscolossalairofsecrecy，byitsfortress-likeseclusion。Itswallsareimmenselythick，andarecoveredwithfiguresthesamecolorasthewalls，someofthemverytall。Thick-set，massive，heavy，almostwarlikeitis。Twoseatedstatueswithin，statueswithanimals’faces，steel-colored，orperhapsalittledarkerthanthat，looklikesavagewardersreadytorepelintrusion。
　　Passingbetweenthem，delicatelyasAgag，oneentersanopenspacewithruins，upontherightofwhichisalow，smalltemple，greyinhue，andcoveredwithinscriptions，whichlooksalmostbowedunderitstremendousweightofyears。Fromthisdignified，thoughtiny，veterantherecomesaperpetualsoundofbirds。ThebirdsinEgypthavenoreverenceforage。NeverhaveIseenthemmorerestless，moregay，ormoreimpertinent，thanintheimmemorialruinsoftheancientland。
　　Beyondisanenormousportal，ontheloftyceilingofwhichstilllingertracesoffadedredandblue，whichgivesaccesstoagreathallwithrowsofmightycolumns，thoseonthelefthandround，thoseontherightsquare，andalmostterriblymassive。Thereisinthesenograce，asinthegiantlotuscolumnsofKarnak。Prodigious，heavy，barbaric，theyarelikeahymninstonetoStrength。Thereissomethingbrutalintheiraspect，whichagainmakesonethinkofwar，ofassaultsrepelled，hordesbeatenbacklikewavesbyasea-wall。Andstillanothergreathall，withmoregiganticcolumns，liesinthesunbeyond，andadoorwaythroughwhichseemstostarefiercelytheedgeofahardandfierymountain。Althoughoneisroofedbythesky，thereissomethingoppressivehere;animprisonedfeelingcomesoverone。I
　　couldneverbefondofMedinet-Abu，asIamfondofLuxor，ofpartsofKarnak，ofthewholeofdelicious，poeticalPhilae。Thebigpylons，withtheirgreatwallsslopinginward，sand-colored，andglowingwithverypaleyellowinthesun，theresistantwalls，thebrutalcolumns，thehugeandalmostsavagescaleofeverything，alwaysremindmeoftheviolenceinmen，andalso——Iscarcelyknowwhy——makemethinkoftheNorth，ofsullenNortherncastlesbythesea，inplaceswhereskiesaregrey，andthewhiteoffoamandsnowismarriedinangrynights。
　　AndyetinMedinet-Abutherereignsasplendidcalm——acalmthatsometimesseemsmassive，resistant，asthecolumnsandthewalls。
　　Peaceiscertainlyinclosedbythestonesthatcallupthoughtsofwar，asif，perhaps，theirpurposehadbeenachievedmanycenturiesago，andtheywerequitofenemiesforever。RamesesIII。isconnectedwithMedinet-Abu。HewasoneofthegreatestoftheEgyptiankings，andhasbeencalledthe"lastofthegreatsovereignsofEgypt。"Heruledforthirty-oneyears，andwhen，afterafirstvisittoMedinet-
　　Abu，Ilookedintohisrecords，Iwasinterestedtofindthathisconquestsandhiswarshad"acharacteressentiallydefensive。"Thisdefensivespiritisincarnatedinthestonesoftheseruins。OnereadsinthemsomethingofthesoulofthiskingwholivedtwelvehundredyearsbeforeChrist，andwhodesired，"inremembranceofhisSyrianvictories，"togivetohismemorialtempleanoutwardmilitaryaspect。
　　Inoticedamilitaryaspectatonceinsidethistemple;butifyoucirclethebuildingsoutsideitismoreunmistakable。Fortheeastfronthasabattlementedwall，andthebattlementsareshield-shaped。
　　Thisfortress，ormigdol，anamewhichtheancientEgyptiansborrowedfromthenomadictribesofSyria，iscalledthe"PavilionofRamesesIII。，"andhisprincipalbattlesarerepresenteduponitswalls。Themonarchdoesnothesitatetospeakofhimselfintermsofpraise，suggestingthathewasliketheGodMentu，whowastheEgyptianwargod，andwhosecultatThebeswasatoneperiodmoreimportanteventhanwasthecultofAmun，andalsoplainlyhintingthathewasabravefellow。"I，RamesestheKing，"hemurmurs，"behavedasaherowhoknowshisworth。"Ifhieroglyphsaretobetrusted，variousEgyptiankingsofancienttimesseemtohavehadsomevaguesuspicionoftheirownvalue，andthewallsofMedinet-Abuare，tospeaksincerely，onemightyboast。Inhislateryearsthekinglivedinpeaceandluxury，surroundedbyaviciousandintriguingCourt，hauntedbymagicians，hags，andmystery-mongers。Dealersinmagicmaystillbefoundontheothersideoftheriver，inhappyLuxor。ImadetheacquaintanceoftwowhenIwasthere，oneofwhomofferedforacoupleofpoundstoprovidemewithapreservativeagainstallsuchdangersasbesetthetravellerinwildplaces。Inordertoproveitsefficacyheaskedmetocometohishousebynight，bringingadogandmyrevolverwithme。Hewouldhangthecharmaboutthedog’sneck，andIwasthentoputsixshotsintotheanimal’sbody。Hepositivelyassuredmethatthedogwouldbeuninjured。Ihalf-promisedtocomeand，whennightbegantofall，lookedvaguelyaboutforadog。AtlastIfoundone，butithowledsodismallywhenIaskedIbrahimAyyadtotakepossessionofitforexperimentalpurposes，thatIweaklygaveuptheproject，andleftthemagicianclamoringforhishundredandninety-fivepiastres。
　　ItswarlikeaspectgivesaspecialpersonalitytoMedinet-Abu。Theshield-shapedbattlements;thecourtyards，withtheirbrutalcolumns，narrowingastheyrecedetowardsthemountains;theheavygateways，withsuperimposedchambers;thetowers;quadrangularbastiontoprotect，inclinedbasementtoresisttheattacksofsappersandcauseprojectilestorebound——allthesethingscontributetothisverydefiniteeffect。
　　IhaveheardtravelersontheNilespeakpiteouslyoftheconfusionwakenedintheirmindsbyahurriedsurveyofmanytemples，statues，monuments，andtombs。Butifonestayslongenoughthisconfusionfadeshappilyaway，andonedifferentiatesbetweentheantiquepersonalitiesofAncientEgyptalmostaseasilyasonedifferentiatesbetweenthepersonalitiesofone’sfamiliarfriends。AmongthesepersonalitiesMedinet-Abuisthewarrior，standinglikeMentu，withthesolardisk，andthetwoplumeserectabovehisheadofahawk，firmlyplantedatthefootoftheThebanmountains，readytorepelallenemies，tobeatbackallassaults，stronganddetermined，powerfulandbrutallyserene。
　　XI
　　THERAMESSEUM
　　"This，mylord，isthethinking-placeofRamesestheGreat。"
　　SosaidIbrahimAyyadtomeonemorning——Ibrahim，whoisalmostasprolificintheabruptcreationofpeersasifhewereademocraticgovernment。
　　Ilookedaboutme。Westoodinaruinedhallwithcolumns，architravescoveredwithinscriptions，segmentsofflatroof。Hereandtheretracesofpainting，dull-red，pale，etherealblue——the"love-color"ofEgypt，astheEgyptiansoftencallit——stilladheredtothestone。
　　Thishall，dignified，grand，buthappy，wasopenonallsidestothesunandair。FromitIcouldseetamarisk-andacacia-trees，andfar-
　　offshadowymountainsbeyondtheeasternvergeoftheNile。Andthetreeswerestillascarventhingsinanatmospherethatwasamiracleofclearnessandofpurity。Behindme，andnear，thehardLibyanmountainsgleamedinthesun。Somewhereaboywassinging;andsuddenlyhissingingdiedaway。AndIthoughtofthe"LayoftheHarper"whichisinscribeduponthetombsofThebes——thosetombsunderthosegleamingmountains：
　　"Fornoonecarriesawayhisgoodswithhim;
　　Yea，noonereturnsagainwhohasgonethither。"
　　IttooktheplaceofthesongthathaddiedasIthoughtofthegreatking’sglory;thathehadbeenhere，andhadlongsincepassedaway。
　　"Thethinking-placeofRamesestheGreat！"
　　"Suttinly。"
　　"Youmustleavemealonehere，Ibrahim。"
　　Iwatchedhisgold-coloredrobevanishintothegoldofthesunthroughthecoppercolorofthecolumns。AndIwasquitealoneinthe"thinking-place"ofRameses。Itwasabrilliantday，theskydarksapphireblue，withouteventhespectreofacloud，oranyairy，vaporousveil;theheatalreadyintenseinthefullsunshine，butdeliciousifoneslidintoashadow。Islidintoashadow，andsatdownonawarmblockofstone。Andthesilencefloweduponme——thesilenceoftheRamesseum。
　　Was/Horbehutet/，thewingeddisk，withcrowned/uroei/，eversetupabovethistemple’sprincipaldoortokeepitfromdestruction？Idonotknow。But，ifhewas，hefailedperfectlytofulfilhismission。
　　AndIamgladhefailed。Iamgladoftheruinthatishere，gladthatwallshavecrumbledorbeenoverthrown，thatcolumnshavebeencastdown，andceilingstornofffromthepillarsthatsupportedthem，lettinginthesky。Iwouldhavenothingdifferentinthethinking-
　　placeofRameses。
　　Likeacloud，agreatgoldencloud，agloryimpendingthatwillnot，cannot，bedissolvedintotheether，heloomedovertheEgyptthatisdead，heloomsovertheEgyptofto-day。Everywhereyoumeethistraces，everywhereyouhearhisname。YousaytoatallyoungEgyptian："Howbigyouaregrowing，Hassan！"
　　Heanswers，"Comebacknextyear，mygentleman，andIshallbelikeRamesestheGreat。"
　　Oryouaskoftheboatmanwhorowsyou，"HowcanyoupullalldayagainstthecurrentoftheNile？"Andhesmiles，andliftinghisbrownarm，hesaystoyou："Look！IamstrongasRamesesthegreat。"
　　Thisfamiliarfamecomesdownthroughsometwentyyears。Carveduponlimestoneandgranite，nowitseemsengravenalsooneveryEgyptianheartthatbeatsnotonlywiththemovementofshadoof，orisnotburiedintheblacksoilfertilizedbyHapi。Thuscaninordinatevanityprolongthetruetriumphofgenius，andimpressitsownviewofitselfuponthemindsofmillions。ThisRamesesisbelievedtobethePharaohwhooppressedthechildrenofIsrael。
　　AsIsatintheRamesseumthatmorning，Irecalledhisface——thefaceofanartistandadreamerratherthanthatofawarriorandoppressor;Asiatic，handsome，notinsensitive，notcruel，butsubtle，aristocratic，andrefined。IcouldimagineitbendingabovethelittleserpentsofthesistrumastheyliftedtheirmelodiousvoicestobidTyphondepart，orwatchingthedancingwomen’srhythmicmovements，orsmilinghalfkindly，halfwithirony，uponthelovelornmaidenwhomadeherplaint：
　　"Whatissweettothemouth，tomeisasthegallofbirds;
　　Thybreathalonecancomfortmyheart。"
　　AndIcouldimagineitlookingprofoundlygrave，notsad，amongthecolumnswiththeiropeninglotusflowers。ForitisthehalloflotuscolumnsthatIbrahimcallsthethinking-placeoftheking。
　　ThereissomethingbothlovelyandtouchingtomeinthelotuscolumnsofEgypt，inthetallmassesofstoneopeningoutintoflowersnearthesun。Nearthesun！Yes;onlythatobviousfalsehoodwillconveytothosewhohavenotseenthemtheeffectofsomeofthehypostylehalls，thecolumnsofwhichseemliterallysoaringtothesky。Andflowersofstone，youwillsay，rudelycarvedandrugged！Thatdoesnotmatter。Therewaspoetryinthemindsthatconceivedthem，inthethoughtthatdirectedthehandswhichshapedthemandplacedthemwheretheyare。InEgyptperpetuallyonefeelshowtheancientEgyptianslovedthe/Nymphaealotus/，whichisthewhitelotus，andthe/Nymphaeacoeruloea/，thelotusthatisblue。DidtheynotplaceHorusinitscup，andupontheheadofNefer-Tum，thenaturegod，whorepresentedintheirmythologytheheatoftherisingsun，andwhoseemstohavebeencreditedwithpowertograntlifeintheworldtocome，setitasasortofregalornament？ToSetiI。，whenhereturnedingloryfromhistriumphsovertheSyrians，weregivenbouquetsoflotus-blossomsbythegreatofficersofhishousehold。Thetinycolumnofgreenfeldsparendinginthelotustypifiedeternalyouth，evenasthecarnelianbuckletypifiedthebloodofIsis，whichwashedawayallsin。Kohlpotswerefashionedintheformofthelotus，cartouchessprangfromit，wineflowedfromcupsshapedlikeit。ThelotuswaspartoftheverylifeofEgypt，astherose，theAmericanBeautyrose，ispartofoursociallifeofto-day。Andhere，intheRamesseum，I
　　foundcampaniform，orlotus-flowercapitalsonthecolumns——herewhereRamesesonceperhapsdreamedofhisSyriancampaigns，orofthatfamouscombatwhen，"likeBaalinhisfury，"hefoughtsingle-handedagainstthehostoftheHittitesmassedintwothousand，fivehundredchariotstooverthrowhim。
　　TheRamesseumisatemplenotofwinds，butofsoftandkindlyairs。
　　TherecomesZephyrus，whisperinglovetoFloraincarnateintheLotus。
　　Toeverysunbeam，toeverylittlebreeze，theruinsstretchoutarms。
　　Theyadorethedeep-bluesky，theshining，siftedsand，untrammelednature，allthatwhispers，"Freedom。"
　　SoIfeltthatdaywhenIbrahimleftme，soIfeelalwayswhenIsitintheRamesseum，thatexultantvictimofTime’sherenotsacrilegioushand。
　　Allstrongsoulscryoutsecretlyforlibertyasforasacrednecessityoflife。LibertyseemstodrenchtheRamesseum。Andallstrongsoulsmustexultthere。Thesunhastakenitasabelovedpossession。Nomassywallskeephimout。Noshield-shapedbattlementsrearthemselvesupagainsttheouterworldasatMedinet-Abu。Nohugepylonscastdownuponthegroundtheirformsindarkness。Thestoneglowswiththesun，seemsalmosttohaveasoulglowingwiththesense，thesun-raysense，offreedom。TheheartleapsupintheRamesseum，notfrivolously，butwithastrange，suddenknowledgeofthedepthsofpassionatejoythereareinlifeandinbountiful，gloriousnature。Insteadofthestrengthofaprisononefeelstheecstasyofspace;insteadofthesafetyofinclosure，theraptureofnakedpublicity。ButthepublictowhomthisplaceofthegreatkingisconsignedisapublicofThebanhills;ofthesunbeamsstrikingfromthemoverthewideworldtowardtheeast;oflightairs，ofdriftingsandgrains，ofsingingbirds，andofbutterflieswithpurewhitewings。IfyouhaveeverriddenanArabhorse，mountedintheheartofanoasis，tothevergeofthegreatdesert，youwillrememberthebound，thrillingwithfieryanimation，whichhegiveswhenhesetshisfeetonthesandbeyondthelasttalldate-palms。AboundlikethatthesoulgiveswhenyousitintheRamesseum，andseethecrowdingsunbeams，thefar-offgrovesofpalm-trees，andthedrowsymountains，likeshadows，thatsleepbeyondtheNile。Andyoulookup，perhaps，asIlookedthatmorning，anduponalotuscolumnnearyou，relieved，youperceivethefigureofayoungmansinging。
　　Ayoungmansinging！Lethimbethetutelarygodofthisplace，whoeverhebe，whetheronlysomehumble，happyslave，orthe"superintendentofsongandoftherecreationoftheking。"RathereventhanAmun-Ralethimbethegod。Forthereissomethingnoblyjoyousinthisarchitecture，adignitythatsings。
　　Ithasbeensaid，butnotestablished，thatRamesestheGreatwasburiedintheRamesseum，andwhenfirstIentereditthe"LayoftheHarper"cametomymind，withthesadnessthatattendsthepassingawayofgloryintotheshadesofdeath。ButanoptimismalmostasdeterminedasEmerson’swasquicklybredinmethere。Icouldnotbesad，thoughIcouldbehappilythoughtful，inthelightoftheRamesseum。AndevenwhenIleftthethinking-place，and，comingdownthecentralaisle，sawintheimmersingsunshineoftheOsirideCourtthefallencolossusoftheking，Iwasnotstrucktosadness。
　　Imaginethegreatestfigureintheworld——suchafigureasthisRameseswasinhisday——withallmight，allglory，allclimbingpower，allvigor，tenacityofpurpose，andgranitestrengthofwillconcentratedwithinit，strucksuddenlydown，andfallingbackwardinacollapseofwhichthethundermightshakethevitalsoftheearth，andyouhavethisprostratecolossus。Evennowoneseemstohearitfall，tofeelthewarmsoiltremblingbeneathone’sfeetasoneapproachesit。Arowofstatuesofenormoussize，witharmscrossedasifinresignation，glowinginthesun，incolornotgoldoramber，butadelicate，desertyellow，watchnearitlikeservantsofthedead。Onaslightlylowerlevelthanthereitlies，andalittlenearertheNile。Onlytheupperhalfofthefigureisleft，butitssizeisreallyterrific。Thiscolossuswasfifty-sevenfeethigh。Itweighedeighthundredtons。Eighthundredtonsofsyenitewenttoitsmaking，andacrosstheshouldersitsbreadthis，orwas，overtwenty-twofeet。
　　Butonedoesnotthinkofmeasurementsasonelooksuponit。Itisstupendous。Thatisobviousandthatisenough。Nordoesonethinkofitsfinish，ofitsbeautiful，richcolor，ofanyofitsdetails。Onethinksofitasatremendouspersonagelaidlow，asthemightiestofthemightyfallen。OnethinksofitasthedeadRameseswhoseglorystillloomsoverEgyptlikeagoldencloudthatwillnotdisperse。Onethinksofitasthesoulthatcommanded，andlo！thereroseupabovethesands，atthefootofthehillsofThebes，theexultantRamesseum。
　　XII
　　DEIR-EL-BAHARI
　　PlaceforQueenHatshepsu！Surelyshecomestoasoundofflutes，amerrynoiseofthin，brightmusic，backedbyaclashingofbarbariccymbals，alongthecorridorsofthepast;thisqueenwhoisshownuponEgyptianwallsdressedasaman，whoissaidtohavewornabeard，andwhosenttothelandofPuntthefamousexpeditionwhichcoveredherwithgloryandbroughtgoldtothegodAmun。TomemostfemininesheseemedwhenIsawhertempleatDeir-el-Bahari，withitsbrightnessanditssuavity;itsprettyshallownessandsunshine;itswhite，andblue，andyellow，andred，andgreenandorange;allverytrimandfanciful，allverysmartanddelicate;fulloffinesseandlaughter，andbreathingouttomeofthetwentiethcenturythecoquetryofawomanin1500B。C。AftertheterrificmasculinityofMedinet-Abu，afterthegreatfreedomoftheRamesseum，andthegrandeurofitscolossus，themanhoodofalltheagesconcentratedingranite，thetempleatDeir-el-Baharicameuponmelikeadelicatewoman，perfumedandarranged，clothedinacreationofwhiteandblueandorange，standing——eversoknowingly——againstabackgroundoforangeandpink，ofredandofbrown-red，asmilingcoquetteofthemountain，agayandsweetenchantresswhoknewherprettypowersandmeanttoexercisethem。
　　Hatshepsuwithabeard！NeverwillIbelieveit。Orifsheeverseemedtowearone，IwillswearitwasonlythetattooedornamentwithwhichallthelovelywomenoftheFayumdecoratetheirchinsto-day，throwingintoreliefthesmiling，softlips，thedelicatenoses，theliquideyes，andleadingonefromitstepbysteptothebeautiesitprecedes。