Ihadbroughtupatinkettlewithme。Thiswasagreatcomfortandacquisition，forbeforewehadnothinglargerthanpintpannikinstofetchupwaterinfromthecreek;thiswasallverywellbydaylight，butinthedarkthehundredyardsfromthehuttothecreekwerenoeasytravellingwithapannikinineachhand。Thegroundwasverystony，andcoveredwithburntIrishmanscrub，againstwhich（theIrishmanbeingblackandcharred，andconsequentlyinvisibleinthedark）Iwascontinuallystumblingandspillinghalfthewater。Therewasaterrace，too，sothatweseldomarrivedwithmuchmorethanhalfapannikin，andthekettlewasanimmensestepinadvance。TheIrishmancalleditvery"beneficial，"ashecalledeverythingthatpleasedhim。Hewasagreatcharacter：heusedto"destroy"hisfood，noteatit。IfIaskedhimtohaveanymorebreadormeat，hewouldsay，withperfectseriousness，thathehad"destroyedenoughthistime。"Hehadmanyotherquaintexpressionsofthissort，buttheydidnotservetomakethehutwater-
tight，andIwashalfregretfullyobligedtosendhimawayashorttimeafterwards。
Thewinter’sexperiencesatisfiedmethatthecountrythatH——andIhadfoundwouldnotdoforsheep，unlessworkedinconnectionwithmorethatwasclearofsnowthroughouttheyear。Assoon，therefore，asIwasconvincedthattheadjacentcountrywassafe，Iboughtit，andsettleduponitingoodearnest，abandoningtheVhut。Ididsowithsomeregret，forwehadgoodfareenoughinit，andIratherlikedit;wehadonlystonesforseats，butwemadesplendidfires，andgotfreshandcleansnow-grasstolieon，anddriedthefloorwithwood-ashes。Thenweconfinedthesnow-grasswithincertainlimitsbymeansofacoupleofpoleslaiduponthegroundandfixedintotheirplaceswithpegs;thenweputupseveralslingstohangoursaddle-bags，tea，sugar，salt，bundles，etc。;thenwemadeahorseforthesaddles——fourriding-saddlesandapack-saddle——andunderneaththiswentourtoolsatoneendandourculinaryutensils，limitedbutveryeffective，attheother。Havingmadeitneatwekeptitso，andofanightitworeanaspectofcomfortquitedomestic，eventothecat，whichwouldcomeinthroughaholeleftinthethatcheddoorforherespecialbenefit，andpurraregularhurricane。Weblessedherbothbydayandbynight，forwesawnoratsaftershecame;andgreatexcitementprevailedwhen，threeweeksafterherarrival，sheaddedalitterofkittenstoourestablishment。
CHAPTERVII
LoadingDray——Bullocks——WantofRoads——BanksPeninsula——FrontandBackRangesofMountains——River-beds——OriginofthePlains——Terraces——Tutu——
Fords——Floods——LostBullocks——ScarcityofFeaturesonthePlains——
Terraces——CrossingtheAshburton——ChangeofWeather——RooflessHut——
Brandy-keg。
IcompletedtheloadingofmydrayonaTuesdayafternoonintheearlypartofOctober，1860，anddeterminedonmakingMain’saccommodation-
housethatnight。OfthecontentsofthedrayIneedhardlyspeak，thoughperhapsafullenumerationofthemmightaffordnobadindextotherequirementsofastation;theyaremorenumerousthanmightatfirstbesupposed——rigidlyusefulandrarelyifeverornamental。
Flour，tea，sugar，tools，householdutensilsfewandrough，aploughandharrows，doors，windows，oatsandpotatoesforseed，andalltheusualdenizensofakitchengarden;these，withafewprivateeffects，formedthemainbulkofthecontents，amountingtoaboutatonandahalfinweight。Ihadonlysixbullocks，buttheseweregoodones，andworthmanyateamofeight;ateamofeightwilldrawfromtwotothreetonsalongaprettygoodroad。Bullocksareveryscarcehere;nonearetobegotundertwentypounds，whilethirtypoundsisnounusualpriceforagoodharnessbullock。Theycandomuchmoreinharnessthaninbowsandyokes，buttheexpenseofharnessandtheconstantdisorderintowhichitgets，renderitcheapertousemorebullocksinthesimplertackle。
Eachbullockhasitsname，andknowsitaswellasadogdoeshis。
Thereisgenerallyatingeofthecomicinthenamesgiventothem。
Manystationshaveasmallmobofcattlefromwhencetodrawtheirworkingbullocks，sothatafewmoreorafewlessmakeslittleornodifference。Theyarenotfedwithcornataccommodation-houses，ashorsesare;whentheirworkisdone，theyareturnedouttofeedtilldark，ortilleightornineo’clock。Abullockfillshimself，ifonprettygoodfeed，inaboutthreeorthreeandahalfhours;hethenliesdowntillveryearlymorning，atwhichtimethechancesaretentoonethat，awakeningrefreshedandstrengthened，hecommencestostraybackalongthewayhecame，orinsomeotherdirection;accordingly，itisacommoncustom，abouteightornineo’clock，toyardone’steam，andturnthemoutwiththefirstdaylightforanotherthreeorfourhours’feed。
Yardingbullocksis，however，abadplan。Theydotheirday’sworkoffromfifteentotwentymiles，orsometimesmore，atonespell，andtravelattherateoffromtwoandahalftothreemilesanhour。
TheroadfromChristChurchtoMain’sismetalledforaboutfourandahalfmiles;therearefencesandfieldsonbothsides，eitherlaiddowninEnglishgrassorsownwithgrain;thefencesarechieflylowditchandbankplantedwithgorse，rarelywithquick，thescarcityofwhichdetractsfromtheresemblancetoEnglishscenerywhichwouldotherwiseprevail。Thecopy，however，isslatternlycomparedwiththeoriginal;
thescarcityoftimber，thehighpriceoflabour，andthepressingurgencyofmoreimportantclaimsuponthetimeofthesmallagriculturist，preventhim，forthemostpart，fromattainingthespick-
and-spanneatnessofanEnglishhomestead。Manymakeshiftsarenecessary;abrokenrailorgateismendedwithapieceofflax，so，occasionally，aretheroads。IhaveseentheGovernmentroadsthemselvesbeingrepairedwithnoothermaterialthanstifftussocksofgrass，flax，andrushes：thisisbad，buttoacertainextentnecessary，wherethereissomuchtobedoneandsofewhandsandsolittlemoneywithwhichtodoit。
Aftergettingoffthecompletedportionoftheroad，thetrackcommencesalongtheplainsunassistedbythehandofman。Beforeone，andbehindone，andoneitherhand，wavestheyellowtussockuponthestonyplain，interminablymonotonous。Ontheleft，asyougosouthward，liesBanksPeninsula，asystemofsubmarinevolcanoesculminatinginaflatteneddome，littlemorethan3000feethigh。CookcalleditBanksIsland，eitherbecauseitwasanislandinhisday，orbecausenoone，tolookatit，wouldimaginethatitwasanythingelse。Mostprobablythelatteristhetruereason;though，asthelandisbeingraisedbyearthquakes，itisjustpossiblethatthepeninsulamayhavebeenanislandinCook’sdays，forthefootofthepeninsulaisverylittleabovethesea-level。ItisindeedtruethattheharbourofWellingtonhasbeenraisedsomefeetsincethefoundationofthesettlement，buttheopinionhereisgeneralthatitmusthavebeenmanycenturiessincethepeninsulawasanisland。
Ontheright，ataconsiderabledistance，risesthelongrangeofmountainswhichtheinhabitantsofChristChurchsupposetobethebackboneoftheisland，andwhichtheycalltheSnowyRange。Therealaxisoftheisland，however，liesmuchfartherback，andbetweenitandtherangenowinsightthelandhasnorest，butiscontinuallysteepupandsteepdown，asifNaturehaddeterminedtotryhowmuchmountainshecouldplaceuponagivenspace;shehad，however，stillsomeregardforutility，forthemountainsarerarelyprecipitous——verysteep，oftenrockyandshinglywhentheyhaveattainedagreatelevation，butseldom，ifever，untilinimmediateproximitytotheWestCoastrange，abruptlikethedescentfromthetopofSnowdontowardsCapelCurigortheprecipicesofClogwyndu’rarddu。ThegreatrangeistrulyAlpine，andthefrontrangeoccasionallyreachesanaltitudeofnearly7000feet。
Theresultofthisabsenceofprecipiceis，thattherearenowaterfallsinthefrontrangesandfewintheback，andthesefewveryinsignificantasregardsthevolumeofthewater。InSwitzerlandonehasthefallsoftheRhine，oftheAar，theGiesbach，theStaubbach，andcataractsgreatandsmallinnumerable;herethereisnothingofthekind，quiteasmanylargerivers，butfewwaterfalls，tomakeupforwhichtheriversrunwithanalmostincrediblefall。MountPeelistwenty-fivemilesfromthesea，andtheriver-bedoftheRangitataunderneaththatmountainis800feetabovethesealine，theriverrunninginastraightcoursethoughwindingaboutinitswastefulriver-
bed。Toallappearanceitisrunningthroughalevelplain。OftheremarkablegorgesthroughwhicheachriverfindsitswayoutofthemountainsintotheplainsImustspeakwhenItakemydraythroughthegorgeoftheAshburton，thoughthisistheleastremarkableofthemall;
inthemeantimeImustreturntothedrayonitswaytoMain’s，althoughIseeanotherdigressionawaitingmeassoonasIhavegotittwomilesaheadofitspresentposition。
Itistediousworkkeepingconstantcompanywiththebullocks;theytravelsoslowly。Letuslingerbehindandsunourselvesuponatussockoraflaxbush，andletthemtravelonuntilwecatchthemupagain。
Theyarenowgoingdownintoanoldriver-bedformerlytenantedbytheWaimakiriri，whichthenflowedintoLakeEllesmere，tenoradozenmilessouthofChristChurch，andwhichnowenterstheseaatKaiapoi，twelvemilesnorthofit;besidesthisoldchannel，ithasotherswhichithasdiscardedwithficklecapricefortheoneinwhichithappenstobeflowingatpresent，andwhichthereappearssomereasonforthinkingitissoongoingtotireof。Ifiteatsaboutahundredyardsmoreofitsgravellybankinoneplace，theriverwillfindanoldbedseveralfeetlowerthanitspresent;thisbedwillconductitintoChristChurch。
Governmenthadputupawoodendefence，atacostofsomethinglike2000
pounds，buttherewasnogettinganyfirmstarting-ground，andafewfreshescarriedembankment，piles，andallaway，andatealargesliceoffthebankintothebargain;thereisnothingforitbuttolettheriverhaveitsownway。Everyfreshchangeseveryford，andtoacertainextentalterseverychannel;afteranyfreshtherivermayshiftitscoursedirectlyontotheoppositesideofitsbed，andleaveChristChurchinundisturbedsecurityforcenturies;or，again，anyfreshmayrendersuchashiftinthehighestdegreeimprobable，andsoonerorlatersealthefateofourmetropolis。Atpresentnoonetroubleshisheadmuchaboutit，althoughafewyearsagotherewasaregularpanicuponthesubject。
Theseoldriverchannels，oratanyratechannelswhereportionsoftherivershaveatonetimecomedown，areeverywhereabouttheplains，buttheneareryougettoariverthemoreyouseeofthem;oneithersidetheRakaia，afterithasgotclearofthegorge，youfindchannelafterchannel，nowcompletelygrassedoverforsomemiles，betrayingtheactionofriverwaterasplainlyaspossible。Theriversafterleavingtheirseveralgorgeslie，asitwere，onthehighestpartofahugefanlikedelta，whichradiatesfromthegorgedowntothesea;theplainsarealmostentirely，formanymilesoneithersidetherivers，composedofnothingbutstones，allbetrayingtheactionofwater。Thesestonesaresocloselypacked，thatattimesonewondershowthetussocksandfine，sweetundergrowthcanforcetheirwayupthroughthem，andevenwherethegroundisfreefromstonesatthesurfaceIamsurethatatalittledistancebelowstoneswouldbefoundpackedinthesameway。Onecannottakeone’shorseoutofawalkinmanypartsoftheplainswhenoffthetrack——Imean，onecannotwithoutdoingviolencetoold-worldnotionsconcerninghorses’feet。
Isaidtheriverslieonthehighestpartofthedelta;notalwaysthehighest，butseldomthelowest。Thereisreasontobelievethatinthecourseofcenturiestheyoscillatefromsidetoside。Forinstance，fourmilesnorthoftheRakaiathereisaterracesometwelveorfourteenfeethigh;thewaterintheriverisninefeetabovethetopofthisterrace。Totheeyeofthecasualobserverthereisnoperceptibledifferencebetweenthelevels，stillthedifferenceexistsandhasbeenmeasured。Iamnogeologistmyself，buthavebeeninformedofthisbyonewhoisintheGovernmentSurveyOffice，anduponwhoseauthorityI
canrely。
ThegeneralopinionisthattheRakaiaisnowtendingrathertothenorthernside。Afreshcomesdownuponacrumblingbankofsandandlooseshinglewithincredibleforce，tearingitawayhourbyhourinravenousbites。Infordingtheriveronecrossesnowaconsiderablestreamonthenorthernside，wherefourmonthsagotherewashardlyany;
whileafteronehasdonewiththewaterpartofthestory，thereremainsalargeextentofriver-bed，intheprocessofgraduallybeingcoveredwithcabbage-trees，flax，tussock，Irishman，andotherplantsandevergreens;yetafteroneisonceclearoftheblankets（sotospeak）oftheriver-bed，thetracesoftheriverarenofresheronthesouthernthanonthenorthernside，evenifsofresh。
Theplains，atfirstsight，wouldappeartohavebeenbroughtdownbytheriversfromthemountains。Thestonesuponthemareallwater-worn，andtheyaretraversedbyagreatnumberofoldwater-courses，alltendingmoreorlessfromthemountainstothesea。How，then，arewetoaccountforthedeepandverywidechannelscutbytherivers？——forchannels，itmaybe，morethanamilebroad，andflankedoneithersidebysteepterraces，which，nearthemountains，areseveralfeethigh？Iftheriverscuttheseterraces，andmadethesedeepchannels，theplainsmusthavebeentherealreadyfortheriverstocutthem。ItmustberememberedthatIwritewithoutanyscientificknowledge。
How，again，arewetoaccountfortherepetitionofthephenomenonexhibitedbythelargerrivers，ineverytributary，smallorgreat，fromtheglacierstothesea？Theyareallaslikeaspeatopeainprinciple，thoughofcoursevaryingindetail。Yeteverytriflingwatercourse，asitemergesfrommountainoustolevelground，presentsthesamephenomenon，namely，alargegully，fartoolargeforthewaterwhichcouldeverhavecomedownit，graduallywideningout，andthendisappearing。Thegeneralopinionhereamongthereputedcognoscentiis，thatallthesegullieswereformedintheprocessofthegradualupheavaloftheislandfromthesea，andthattheplainswereoriginallysea-bottoms，slowlyraised，andstillslowlyraisingthemselves。
Doubtless，theriversbroughtthestonesdown，buttheyweredepositedinthesea。
Theterraces，whicharesoabundantalloverthebackcountry，andwhichrise，onebehindanother，tothenumber，itmaybe，oftwentyorthirty，withthemostunpicturesqueregularity（onmyruntherearefullytwenty），aresupposedtobeelevatedsea-beaches。Theyaretobeseenevenashighasfourorfivethousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea，andIdoubtnotthatageologistmightfindtracesofthemhigherstill。
Therefore，though，whenfirstlookingattheplainsandriver-bedflatswhicharesoabundantinthebackcountry，onemightbeinclinedtothinkthatnootheragentthantheriversthemselveshadbeenatwork，andthough，whenoneseesthedeltabelow，andtheemptygullyabove，likeaminute-glassaftertheegghasbeenboiled——thetopglassemptyofthesand，andthebottomglassfullofit——oneistemptedtorestsatisfied;yetwhenwelookcloser，weshallfindthatmoreiswantedinordertoaccountforthephenomenaexhibited，andthegeologistsoftheislandsupplythatmore，bymeansofupheaval。
Ipaythetributeofahumblesalaamtoscience，andreturntomysubject。
Wecrossedtheoldriver-bedoftheWaimakiriri，andcrawledslowlyontoMain’s，throughthedescendingtwilight。OneseesMain’saboutsixmilesoff，anditappearstobeaboutsixhoursbeforeonereachesit。
Alittlehumpforthehouse，andalongerhumpforthestables。
Thetutunothavingyetbeguntospring，IyardedmybullocksatMain’s。
Thisdemandsexplanation。Tutuisaplantwhichdiesawayinthewinter，andshootsupanewfromtheoldrootsinspring，growingfromsixinchestotwoorthreefeetinheight，sometimeseventofiveorsix。Itisofarichgreencolour，andpresents，atalittledistance，somethingtheappearanceofmyrtle。Onitsfirstcomingabovethegrounditresemblesasparagus。Ihaveseenthreevarietiesofit，thoughIamnotsurewhethertwoofthemmaynotbethesame，variedsomewhatbysoilandposition。Thethirdgrowsonlyinhighsituations，andisunknownupontheplains;ithasleavesveryminutelysubdivided，andlookslikeafern，buttheblossomandseedarenearlyidenticalwiththeothervarieties。Thepeculiarpropertyoftheplantis，that，thoughhighlynutritiousbothforsheepandcattlewheneatenuponatolerablyfullstomach，itisveryfataluponanemptyone。Sheepandcattleeatittoanyextent，andwithperfectsafety，whenrunninglooseontheirpasture，becausetheyarethenalwaysprettyfull;buttakethesamesheepandyardthemforsomefewhours，ordrivethemsothattheycannotfeed，thenturnthemintotutu，andtheresultisthattheyareimmediatelyattackedwithapoplecticsymptoms，anddieunlesspromptlybled。Nordoesbleedingbyanymeansalwayssavethem。Theworstofitis，thatwhenemptytheyarekeenestafterit，andnabitinspiteofone’smostfranticappeals，bothverbalandflagellatory。Somesaythattutuactslikeclover，andblowsoutthestomach，sothatdeathensues。
Theseed-stones，however，containedinthedarkpulpyberry，arepoisonoustoman，andsuperinduceapoplecticsymptoms。Theberry（aboutthesizeofasmallcurrant）israthergood，though（likealltheNewZealandberries）insipid，andisquiteharmlessifthestonesarenotswallowed。Tutugrowschieflyonandintheneighbourhoodofsandyriver-beds，butoccursmoreorlessalloverthesettlement，andcausesconsiderabledamageeveryyear。Horseswon’ttouchit。
As，then，mybullockscouldnotgettutedonbeingturnedoutempty，I
yardedthem。ThenextdaywemadethirteenmilesovertheplainstotheWaikitty（writtenWaikirikiri）orSelwyn。Stillthesamemonotonousplains，thesameinterminabletussock，dottedwiththesamecabbage-
trees。
Onthemorrow，tenmoremonotonousmilestothebanksoftheRakaia。
Thisriverisoneofthelargestintheprovince，secondonlytotheWaitaki。ItcontainsaboutasmuchwaterastheRhoneaboveMartigny，perhapsevenmore，butitratherresemblesanItalianthanaSwissriver。Withduecare，itisfordableinmanyplaces，thoughveryrarelysowhenoccupyingasinglechannel。Itis，however，seldomfoundinonestream，butflows，liketherestoftheserivers，withalternateperiodsofrapidandcomparativelysmoothwatereveryfewyards。Theplacetolookforafordisjustaboveaspitwheretheriverforksintotwoormorebranches;thereisgenerallyhereabarofshinglewithshallowwater，whileimmediatelybelow，ineachstream，thereisadangerousrapid。Averylittlepracticeandknowledgeofeachriverwillenableamantodetectafordataglance。Thesefordsshifteveryfresh。IntheWaimakiririorRangitata，theyoccureveryquarterofamileorless;intheRakaia，youmaygothreeorfourmilesforagoodone。
Duringafresh，theRakaiaisnotfordable，atanyrate，nooneoughttofordit;butthetwofirst-namedriversmaybecrossed，withgreatcare，inprettyheavyfreshes，withoutthewatergoinghigherthanthekneesoftherider。Itisalways，however，anunpleasanttasktocrossariverwhenfullwithoutathoroughpreviousacquaintancewithit;then，aglanceatthecolourandconsistencyofthewaterwillgiveagoodideawhetherthefreshiscomingdown，atitsheight，orfalling。Whentheordinaryvolumeofthestreamisknown，theheightofthewatercanbeestimatedataspotneverbeforeseenwithwonderfulcorrectness。
TheRakaiasometimescomesdownwitharun——awallofwatertwofeethigh，rollingoverandover，rushesdownwithirresistibleforce。I
knowagentlemanwhohadbeenlookingatsomesheepuponanislandintheRakaia，and，afterfinishinghissurvey，wasridingleisurelytothebankonwhichhishousewassituated。Suddenly，hesawtherivercomingdownuponhiminthemannerIhavedescribed，andnotmorethantwoorthreehundredyardsoff。Byaforcibleapplicationofthespur，hewasenabledtoreachterrafirma，justintimetoseethewatersweepingwithanawfulroaroverthespotthathehadbeentraversingnotasecondpreviously。Thisisnotfrequent：afreshgenerallytakesfourorfivehourstocomedown，andfromtwodaystoaweek，tendays，orafortnight，tosubsideagain。
IfIweretospeakoftheriseoftheRakaia，orratherofthenumerousbrancheswhichformit;oftheirvastandwastefulbeds;theglaciersthattheyspringfrom，oneofwhichcomesdownhalf-wayacrosstheriver-bed（thustendingtoprovethattheglaciersaredescending，fortheriver-bedisbothABOVEandBELOWtheglacier）;ofthewonderfulgorgewithitsterracesrisingshelfuponshelf，likefortifications，manyhundredfeetabovetheriver;thecrystalsfoundthere，andthewildpigs——Ishouldwearythereadertoomuch，andfillhalfavolume：
thebullocksmustagainclaimourattention，andIunwillinglyreverttomysubject。
OnthenightofourarrivalattheRakaiaIdidnotyardthebullocks，astheyseemedinclinedtostayquietlywithsomeothersthatwereabouttheplace;nextmorningtheyweregone。Weretheyuptheriver，ordowntheriver，acrosstheriver，orgoneback？YouareatCambridge，andhavelostyourbullocks。TheywerebredinYorkshire，buthavebeenusedagooddealintheneighbourhoodofDorchester，andmayhaveconsequentlymadeineitherdirection;theymay，however，haveworkeddowntheCam，andbeinfullfeedforLynn;or，again，theymaybesnuglystowedawayinagullyhalf-waybetweentheFitzwilliamMuseumandTrumpington。YousawamobofcattlefeedingquietlyaboutMadingleyontheprecedingevening，andtheymayhavejoinedinwiththese;orweretheyattractedbythefinefeedintheneighbourhoodofCherryhinton？Whereshallyougotolookforthem？
Mattersinreality，however，arenotsobadasthis。Abullockcannotwalkwithoutleavingatrack，ifthegroundhetravelsoniscapableofreceivingone。Again，ifhedoesnotknowthecountryinadvanceofhim，thechancesarestrongthathehasgonebackthewayhecame;hewilltravelinatrackifhehappenstolightonone;hefindsiteasiergoing。Animalsarecautiousinproceedingonwardswhentheydon’tknowtheground。Theyhaveeveralionintheirpathuntiltheyknowit，andhavefounditfreefrombeastsofprey。If，however，theyhavebeenseenheadingdecidedlyinanydirectionover-night，inthatdirectiontheywillmostlikelybefoundsoonerorlater。Bullockscannotgolongwithoutwater。Theywilltraveltoariver，thentheywilleat，drink，andbemerry，andduringthatperiodoffatalsecuritytheywillbecaught。
Ourshadgonebacktenmiles，totheWaikitty;wesoonobtainedcluesastotheirwhereabouts，andhadthembackagainintimetoproceedonourjourney。Theriverbeingverylow，wedidnotunloadthedrayandputthecontentsacrossintheboat，butdrovethebullocksstraightthrough。Eighteenwearymonotonousmilesoverthesameplains，coveredwiththesametussockgrass，anddottedwiththesamecabbage-trees。
Themountains，however，grewgraduallynearer，andBanksPeninsuladwindledperceptibly。ThatnightwemadeMr。M-’sstation，andwerethankful。
Againwedidnotyardthebullocks，andagainwelostthem。Theywereonlyfivemilesoff，butwedidnotfindthemtillafternoon，andlostaday。Astheyhadtravelledinallnearlyfortymiles，Ihadhadmercyuponthem，intendingthattheyshouldfillthemselveswellduringthenight，andbereadyforalongpullnextday。Eventhemercifulmanhimself，however，wouldexceptaworkingbullockfromthebeastswhohaveanyclaimuponhisgoodfeeling。Lethimgostraininghiseyesexaminingeverydarkspotinacircumferencemanylongmilesinextent。
Lethimgallopacoupleofmilesinthisdirectionandtheother，anddiscoverthathehasonlybeenlesseningthedistancebetweenhimselfandagroupofcabbage-trees;lethimfeeltheword"bullock"eatingitselfinindeliblecharactersintohisheart，andhewillrefrainfrommercytoworkingbullocksaslongashelives。Butastherearefewpositivepleasuresequalinintensitytothenegativeoneofreleasefrompain，soitiswhenatlastagroupofsixoblongobjects，fivedarkandonewhite，appearsinremotedistance，distinctandunmistakable。Yes，theyareourbullocks;asighofrelieffollows，andwedrivethemsharplyhome，gloatingovertheirdistendedtonguesandslobberingmouths。Ifthereisonethingabullockhatesworsethananotheritisbeingdriventoofast。Hisheavylumberingcarcaseismatedwithanolesslumberingsoul。Heisagood，slow，steady，patientslaveifyoulethimtakehisowntimeaboutit;butdon’thurryhim。Hehasplayedaveryimportantpartintheadvancementofcivilisationandthedevelopmentoftheresourcesoftheworld，apartwhichthemorefieryhorsecouldnothaveplayed;letusthenbearwithhisheavytrailinggaitanduncouthmovements;onlynexttimewewillkeephimtight，eventhoughhestarveforit。Ifbullocksbeinvariablydrivensharplybacktothedray，whenevertheyhavestrayedfromit，theywillsoonlearnnottogofaroff，andwillbecuredevenofthemostinveteratevagranthabits。
NowwefollowuponebranchoftheAshburton，andcommencemakingstraightforthemountains;still，however，weareonthesamemonotonousplains，andcrawlourtwentymileswithveryfewobjectsthatcanpossiblyserveaslandmarks。Itiswonderfulhowsmallanobjectgetsanameinthegreatdearthoffeatures。Cabbage-treehill，half-
waybetweenMain’sandtheWaikitty，isanalmostimperceptiblerisesometenyardsacrossandtwoorthreefeethigh：thecabbage-treeshavedisappeared。BetweentheRakaiaandMr。M-’sstationisaplacetheycallthehalf-waygully，butitisneitheragullynorhalf-way，beingonlyagripintheearth，causingnoperceptibledifferenceinthelevelofthetrack，andextendingbutafewyardsoneithersideofit。
SobetweenMr。M-’sandthenexthalting-place（savetwosheep-stations）
Iremembernothingbutarathercuriouslyshapedgowai-tree，andadeadbullock，thatcanformmilestones，asitwere，tomarkprogress。Eachperson，however，forhimselfmakesinnumerableones，suchaswhereonepeakinthemountainrangegoesbehindanother，andsoon。
InthesmallRiverAshburton，orratherinoneofitsmosttrivialbranches，wehadalittlemisunderstandingwiththebullocks;theleaders，forsomereasonbestknowntothemselves，slewedsharplyround，andtiedthemselvesintoaninextricableknotwiththepolars，whilethebodybullocks，byamanoeuvrenotunfrequent，shifted，orasitistechnicallytermedslipped，theyokeundertheirnecks，andthebowsover;theoffbullockturninguponthenearsideandthenearbullockupontheoff。BywhatmeanstheydothisIcannotexplain，butbelieveitwouldmakeaconjuror’sfortuneinEngland。Howtheygotthechainsbetweentheirlegsandhowtheykickedtoliberatethemselves，howweabusedthem，and，finally，unchainingthem，setthemright，Ineednothereparticularise;wefinallytriumphed，butthisdelaycausedusnottoreachourdestinationtillafterdark。
Herethegoodwomanofthehousetookusintoherconfidenceinthematterofhercorns，fromtheirritatedconditionofwhichshearguedthatbadweatherwasabouttoensue。Thenextmorning，however，westartedanew，and，afteraboutthreeorfourmiles，enteredthevalleyofthesouthandlargerAshburton，biddingadieutotheplainscompletely。
AndnowthatIapproachthedescriptionofthegorge，Ifeelutterlyunequaltothetask，notbecausethesceneisawfulorbeautiful，forinthisrespectthegorgeoftheAshburtonislessremarkablethanmost，butbecausethesubjectofgorgesisrepletewithdifficulty，andIhaveneverheardasatisfactoryexplanationofthephenomenatheyexhibit。
Itisnot，however，myprovincetoattemptthis。ImustcontentmyselfwithnarratingwhatIsee。
First，thereistheriver，flowingveryrapidlyuponabedoflargeshingle，withalternaterapidsandsmoothplaces，constantlyforkingandconstantlyreunitingitselfliketangledskeinsofsilverribbonsurroundinglozenge-shapedisletsofsandandgravel。Oneithersideisalongflatcomposedofshinglesimilartothebedoftheriveritself，butcoveredwithvegetation，tussock，andscrub，withfinefeedforsheeporcattleamongtheburntIrishmanthickets。Theflatissomehalf-milebroadoneachsidetheriver，narrowingasthemountainsdrawincloseruponthestream。Itisterminatedbyasteepterrace。Twentyorthirtyfeetabovethisterraceisanotherflat，wewillsaysemicircular，forIamgeneralising，whichagainissurroundedbyasteeplyslopingterracelikeanamphitheatre;abovethisanotherflat，recedingstillfartherback，perhapshalfamileinplaces，perhapsalmostcloseabovetheonebelowit;abovethisanotherflat，recedingfarther，andsoon，untiltheleveloftheplainproper，orhighestflat，isseveralhundredfeetabovetheriver。IhavenotseenasingleriverinCanterburywhichisnotmoreorlessterracedevenbelowthegorge。Theangleoftheterraceisalwaysverysteep：Iseldomseeonelessthan45degrees。Onealwayshastogetoffandleadone’shorsedown，exceptwhenanartificialcuttinghasbeenmade，oradvantagecanbetakenofsomegullythatdescendsintotheflatbelow。Tributarystreamsareterracedinlikemanneronasmallscale，whileeventhemountaincreeksrepeatthephenomenainminiature：theterracesbeingalwayshighestwheretheriveremergesfromitsgorge，andslowlydwindlingdownasitapproachesthesea，tillfinally，insteadoftheriverbeingmanyhundredfeetbelowtheleveloftheplains，asisthecaseatthefootofthemountains，theplainsneartheseaareconsiderablybelowthewaterintheriver，asonthenorthsideoftheRakaia，beforedescribed。
OurroadlayuptheAshburton，whichwehadrepeatedlytocrossandrecross。
Adraygoingthroughariverisaprettysightenoughwhenyouareutterlyunconcernedinthecontentsthereof;therushingwaterstemmedbythebullocksandthedray，theenergeticappealsofthedrivertoTommyorNobblertoliftthedrayoverthelargestonesintheriver，thecreakingdray，thecrackingwhip，formatoutensembleratheragreeablethanotherwise。Butwhenthebullocks，havingpulledthedrayintothemiddleoftheriver，refuseentirelytopullitoutagain;whentheleadersturnsharproundandlookatyou，orsticktheirheadsunderthebelliesofthepolars;whenthegentlepatsontheforeheadwiththestockofthewhipproveunavailing，andyouareobligedtohaverecoursetostrongmeasures，itislessagreeable：especiallyiftheanimalsturnjustafterhavinggotyourdrayhalf-wayupthebank，and，twistingitrounduponasteeplyinclinedsurface，throwthecentreofgravityfarbeyondthebase：overgoesthedrayintothewater。Alas，mysugar！mytea！myflour！mycrockery！Itisallover——dropthecurtain。
Ibegtostatemydraydidnotupsetthistime，thoughthecentreofgravityfellfarwithoutthebase：whatNewtonsaysonthatsubjectiserroneous;soarethoseillustrationsofnaturalphilosophy，inwhichaloadeddrayisrepresentedasnecessarilyabouttofall，becauseadottedlinefromthecentreofgravityfallsoutsidethewheels。Ittakesagreatdealmoretoupsetawell-loadeddraythanonewouldhaveimagined，althoughsometimesthemostunforeseentriflewilleffectit。
Possiblythevalueofthecontentsmayhavesomethingtodowithit;butmyideasarenotyetfullyformeduponthesubject。
Wemadeaboutseventeenmilesandcrossedtherivertentimes，sothatthebullocks，whichhadneverbeforebeenaccustomedtoriver-work，becamequiteusedtoit，andmanageable，andhavecontinuedsoeversince。
Wehaltedforthenightatashepherd’shut：awakeningoutofslumberI
heardthefitfulgustsofviolentwindcomepuff，puff，buffet，anddieawayagain;nor’-westerallover。Iwentoutandsawtheunmistakablenorth-westcloudstearingawayinfrontofthemoon。IrememberedMrs。
W-’scorns，andanathematisedtheminmyheart。
ItmaybeimaginedthatIturnedoutofacomfortablebed，slippedonmyboots，andthenwentout;nosuchthing：wewerealllyinginourclotheswithoneblanketbetweenusandthebarefloor——ourheadspillowedonoursaddle-bags。
ThenextdaywemadeonlythreemilestoMr。P-’sstation。Thereweunloadedthedray，greasedit，andrestoredhalftheload，intendingtomakeanotherjourneyfortheremainder，astheroadwasverybad。
Onedrayhadbeenoverthegroundbeforeus。Thattookfourdaystodothefirsttenmiles，andthenwasdelayedseveralweeksonthebankoftheRangitatabyaseriesofveryheavyfreshes，sowedeterminedontryingadifferentroute：wegotfartheronourfirstdaythanourpredecessorhaddoneintwo，andthenPossum，oneofthebullocks，laydown（Iamafraidhehadhadanawfulhammeringinaswampycreekwherehehadstuckfortwohours），andwouldnotstiraninch;soweturnedthemalladriftwiththeiryokeson（hadwetakenthemoffwecouldnothaveyokedthemupagain），whereatPossumbeganfeedinginamannerwhichplainlyshowedthattherehadnotbeenmuchamisswithhim。Butduringtheintervalthatelapsedbetweenourgettingintotheswampycreekandgettingoutofitagreatchangehadcomeovertheweather。
WhilepoorPossumwasbeingchastisedIhadbeenrecliningonthebankhardby，andoccasionallyintercedingfortheunhappyanimal，themenwereallathim（butwhatisonetodoifone’sdrayisburiednearlytotheaxleinabog，andPossumwon’tpull？）;soIwastakingiteasy，withoutcoatorwaistcoat，andeventhenfeelingasifnoplacecouldbetoocooltopleaseme，forthenor’-westerwasstillblowingstrongandintenselyhot，whensuddenlyIfeltachill，andlookingatthelakebelowsawthatthewhite-headedwaveshadchangedtheirdirection，andthatthewindhadchoppedroundtosou’-west。
Weleftthedrayandwentonsometwoorthreemilesonfootforthepurposeofcampingwheretherewasfirewood。Therewasahut，too，intheplaceforwhichweweremaking。Itwasnotyetroofed，andhadneitherdoornorwindow;butasitwasnearfirewoodandwaterwemadeforit，hadsupper，andturnedin。
Inthemiddleofthenightsomeone，pokinghisnoseoutofhisblanket，informedusthatitwassnowing，andinthemorningwefounditcontinuingtodoso，withagoodsprinklingontheground。Wethoughtnothingofit，and，returningtothedray，foundthebullocks，putthemto，andstartedonourway;butwhenwecameabovethegully，atthebottomofwhichthehutlay，wewereobligedtogivein。Therewasaverybadcreek，whichwetriedinvainforanhourorsotocross。Thesnowwasfallingverythickly，anddrivingrightintothebullocks’
faces。Wewereallverycoldandweary，anddeterminedtogodowntothehutagain，expectingfineweatherinthemorning。Wecarrieddownakettle，acampoven，someflour，tea，sugar，andsaltbeef;alsoanovelortwo，andthefuturetowelsoftheestablishment，whichwantedhemming;alsothetwocats。Thusequippedwewentdownthegulley，andgotbacktothehutaboutthreeo’clockintheafternoon。Thegulleyshelteredus，andtherethesnowwaskindandwarm，thoughbitterlycoldontheterrace。WethrewafewburntIrishmansticksacrossthetopofthewalls，andputacoupleofcounterpanesoverthem，thusobtainingalittleshelternearthefire。Thesnowinsidethehutwasaboutsixinchesdeep，andsoonbecamesloppy，sothatatnightwepreferredtomakeaholeinthesnowandsleepoutside。
Thefallcontinuedallthatnight，andinthemorningwefoundourselvesthicklycovered。Itwasstillsnowinghard，sotherewasnostirring。
Wereadthenovels，hemmedthetowels，smoked，andtookitphilosophically。Therewasplentyoffirewoodtokeepuswarm。Bynightthesnowwasfullytwofeetthickeverywhere，andinthedriftsfiveandsixfeet。Ideterminedthatwewouldhavesomegrog，andhadnosoonerhintedthebrightideathantwovolunteersundertooktheratherdifficulttaskofgettingit。Theterracemusthavebeen150
feetabovethehut;itwasverysteep，intersectedbynumerousgulliesfilledwithdeeplydriftedsnow;fromthetopitwasyetafullquarterofamiletotheplacewherewehadleftthedray。Stillthebravefellows，inspiredwithhope，startedinfullconfidence，whileweputourkettleonthefireandjoyfullyawaitedtheirreturn。Theyhadbeengoneatleasttwohours，andweweregettingfearfulthattheyhadbroachedthecaskandhelpedthemselvestooliberallyontheway，whentheyreturnedintriumphwiththetwo-gallonkeg，vowingthatneverintheirlivesbeforehadtheyworkedsohard。Howunjustlywehadsuspectedthemwillappearinthesequel。
Greatexcitementprevailedoverdrawingthecork。Itwasfast;itbrokethepointofsomeone’sknife。"Shoveitin，"saidI，breathlesswithimpatience;no——no——ityielded，andshortlyafterwards，givingupallopposition，camequicklyout。Atinpannikinwasproduced。Withagurglingsoundoutflowedthepreciousliquid。"Halloa！"saidone;
"it’snotbrandy，it’sportwine。""Portwine！"criedanother;"itsmellsmorelikerum。"Ivotedforitsbeingclaret;anothermoment，however，settledthequestion，andestablishedthecontentsofthecaskasbeingexcellentvinegar。Thetwounfortunatemenhadbroughtthevinegarkeginsteadofthebrandy。
Therestmaybeimagined。Thatnight，however，twoofuswereattackedwithdiarrhoea，andthevinegarprovedofgreatservice，forvinegarandwaterisanadmirableremedyforthiscomplaint。
Thesnowcontinuedtillafternoonthenextday。Itthensulkilyceased，andcommencedthawing。Atnightitfrozeveryhardindeed，andthenextdayanor’-westersprangupwhichmadethesnowdisappearwiththemostastonishingrapidity。Nothavingthenlearntthatnoamountofmeltingsnowwillproduceanyimportanteffectupontheriver，and，fearingthatitmightrise，wedeterminedtopushon：butthiswasasyetimpossible。Nextmorning，however，wemadeanearlystart，andgottriumphantlytoourjourney’sendatabouthalf-pastteno’clock。Myowncountry，whichlayconsiderablylower，wasentirelyfreeofsnow，whilewelearntafterwardsthatithadneverbeendeeperthanfourinches。
CHAPTERVIII
TakinguptheRun——HutwithintheBoundary——LandRegulations——RacetoChristChurch——ContestforPriorityofApplication——Successfulissue——
WindsandtheirEffects——TheirconflictingCurrents——SheepcrossingtheRiver。
Therewasalittlehutonmyrunbuiltbyanotherperson，andtenantedbyhisshepherd。G-hadanapplicationfor5，000acresinthesameblockofcountrywithmine，andastheboundarieswereuncertainuntilthewholewassurveyed，andtherunsdefinitelymarkedoutontheGovernmentmaps，hehadplacedhishutuponaspotthatturnedouteventuallynottobelongtohim。IhadwaitedtoseehowthelandwasallottedbeforeItookitup。Knowingthecountrywell，andfindingitallottedtomysatisfaction，Imademybargainonthesamedaythatthequestionwassettled。ItookatracingfromtheGovernmentmapupwithme，andwearrivedontherunaboutafortnightaftertheallotment。Itwasnecessaryformetowaitforthis，orImighthavemadethesamemistakewhichG-haddone。Hishutwasplacedwhereitwasnowofnousetohimwhatever，butontheverysiteonwhichIhadmyselfintendedtobuild。Itisbeyondallpossibilityofdoubtuponmyrun;butG-isaverydifficultmantodealwith，andIhavehadahardtasktogetridofhim。Toallowhimtoremainwherehewaswasnottobethoughtof：
butIwasperfectlyreadytopayhimforhishut（suchasitis）andhisyard。KnowinghimtobeatP-’s，Isetthementotheircontract，andwentdownnextdaytoseehimandtoofferhimanycompensationforthelossofhishutwhichathirdpartymightarrange。Icoulddonothingwithhim;hethreatenedfiercely，andwouldhearnoreason。MyonlyremedywastogodowntoChristChurchatonceandbuythefreeholdofthesitefromtheGovernment。
TheCanterburyregulationsconcerningthepurchaseofwastelandsfromtheCrownareamongtheverybestexisting。TheyareallfreetoanypurchaserwiththeexceptionofafewGovernmentreservesforcertainpublicpurposes，asrailway-townshipreserves，andsoforth。Everyrun-
holderhasapre-emptiverightover250acresroundhishomestead，and50acresroundanyotherbuildingshemayhaveuponhisrun。Hemustregisterthisright，oritisofnoavail。Bythismeansheissecuredfromanenemybuyinguphishomesteadwithouthispreviousknowledge。
Whoeverwishestopurchaseasheepfarmer’shomesteadmustfirstgivehimaconsiderablenotice，andthencanonlybuyiftheoccupantrefusestodosoatthepriceof2poundsanacre。OfcoursetheoccupantwouldNOTrefuse，andthethingisconsequentlyneverattempted。Alltherest，however，ofanyman’srunisopentopurchaseattherateof2
poundsperacre。Thispriceissufficienttopreventmonopoly，andyetnothighenoughtointerferewiththesmallcapitalist。Thesheepfarmercannotbuyuphisrunandstandinthewayofthedevelopmentofthecountry，andatthesametimeheissecuredfromthelossofitthroughothersbuying，becausethepriceistoohightomakeitworthaman’swhiletodosowhensomuchbetterinvestmentsarestillopen。Ontheplains，however，manyrun-holdersarebecomingseriouslyuneasyevenatthepresentprice，andblocksof1000acresarefrequentlyboughtwithaviewtotheirbeingfencedinandlaiddowninEnglishgrasses。
Inthebackcountrythishasnotyetcommenced，norisitlikelytodosoformanyyears。
Buttoreturn。Firstly，G-hadnotregisteredanypre-emptiveright，and，secondly，ifhehaditwouldhavebeenworthless，becausehishutwassituatedonmyrunandnotonhisown。Iwassurethathehadnotboughtthefreehold;Iwasalsocertainthathemeanttobuyit。So，wellknowingtherewasnotamomenttolose，IwenttowardsChristChurchthesameafternoon，andsuppedatashepherd’shutthreemileslowerdown，andintendedtotravelquietlyallnight。
TheAshburton，however，washeavilyfreshed，andthenightwaspitchdark。Aftercrossingandre-crossingitfourtimesIwasafraidtogoon，andcampingdown，waitedfordaylight。Resumingmyjourneywithearlydawn，Ihadnotgonefarwhen，happeningtoturnround，Isawamanonhorsebackaboutaquarterofamilebehindme。IknewatoncethatthiswasG-，andlettinghimcomeupwithme，werodeforsomemilestogether，eachofusofcoursewellawareoftheother’sintentions，buttoopolitictosquabbleaboutthemwhensquabblingwasnomannerofuse。ItwasthenearlyontheWednesdaymorning，andtheBoardsatonthefollowingday。AbookiskeptattheLand-Officecalledtheapplication-book，inwhichanyonewhohasbusinesswiththeBoardentershisname，andhiscaseisattendedtointheorderinwhichhisnamestands。TheracebetweenG-andmyselfwasastowhoshouldfirstgethisnamedowninthisbook，andsecuretheownershipofthehutbypurchasingthefreeholdoftwentyacresroundit。Wehadnearlyahundredmilestoride;theofficeclosedatfourintheafternoon，andIknewthatG-couldnotpossiblybeintimeforthatday;Ihadthereforetillteno’clockonthefollowingmorning;thatistosay，abouttwenty-fourhoursfromthetimewepartedcompany。KnowingthatI
couldbeintownbythattime，Itookiteasily，andhaltedforbreakfastatthefirststationwecameto。G-wenton，andIsawhimnomore。
Ifearedthatourapplicationswouldbesimultaneous，orthatweshouldhaveanindecorousscuffleforthebookintheLandOfficeitself。Inthiscase，therewouldonlyhaveremainedtheunsatisfactoryalternativeofdrawinglotsforprecedence。Therewasnothingforitbuttogoon，andseehowmatterswouldturnup。Beforemidday，andwhilststillsixtymilesfromtown，myhorseknocked-upcompletely，andwouldnotgoanotherstep。G-’shorse，onlytwomonthsbefore，hadgoneahundredmilesinlessthanfifteenhours，andwasnowpittedagainstmine，whichwasthoroughlydone-up。Ratheranticipatingthis，Ihaddeterminedonkeepingthetracks，thuspassingstationswhereImighthaveachanceofgettingafreshmount。G-tookashortcut，savingfullytenmilesindistance，buttravellingoveraverystonycountry，withnotrack。A
trackisagreatcomforttoahorse。
Ishallneverforgetmyreliefwhen，atastationwhereIhadalreadyreceivedgreatkindness，Iobtainedtheloanofahorsethathadbeentakenupthatmorningfromathree-months’spell。Nogreaterservicecould，atthetime，havebeenrenderedme，andIfeltthatIhadindeedmetwithafriendinneed。
Theprospectwasnowbrilliant，savethattheRakaiawassaidtobeveryheavilyfreshed。FearingImighthavetoswimforit，IleftmywatchatM-’s，andwentonwiththesatisfactoryreflectionthat，atanyrate，ifIcouldnotcross，G-couldnotdosoeither。Tomydelight，however，theriverwasverylow，andIfordeditwithoutthesmallestdifficultyalittlebeforesunset。Afewhoursafterwards，downitcame。IheardthatG-wasanhouraheadofme，butthiswasofnoconsequence。Ridingtenmilesfarther，andnowonlytwenty-fivemilesfromChristChurch，Icalledatanaccommodation-house，andheardthatG-waswithin，sowenton，anddeterminedtocampandrestmyhorse。
Thenightwasagainintenselydark，anditsooncameontorainsoheavilythattherewasnothingforitbuttostartagainforthenextaccommodation-house，twelvemilesfromtown。Isleptthereafewhours，andbyseveno’clocknextmorningwasinChristChurch。SowasG。WecouldneitherofusdoanythingtilltheLandOfficeopenedatteno’clock。AttwentyminutesbeforetenIrepairedthither，expectingtofindG-inwaiting，andanticipatingarow。Ifitcametofists，I
shouldgettheworstofit——thatwasamoralcertainty——andIreallyhalf-fearedsomethingofthekind。Tomysurprise，theoffice-doorswereopen——alltheroomswereopen——andonreachingthatinwhichtheapplication-bookwaskept，Ifounditalreadyuponthetable。Iopeneditwithtremblingfingers，andsawmyadversary’snamewritteninboldhandwriting，defyingme，asitwere，todomyworst。
Theclock，astheclerkwasreadytowitness，wastwentyminutesbeforeten。IlearntfromhimalsothatG-hadwrittenhisnamedownabouthalfanhour。Thiswasallright。Mycoursewastowaittillafterten，writemyname，andopposeG-’sapplicationashavingbeenenteredunduly，andbeforeoffice-hours。IhavenodoubtthatIshouldhavesucceededingainingmypointinthisway，butamucheasiervictorywasinstoreforme。
Runningmyeyethroughthelistofnames，tomygreatsurpriseIsawmyownamongthem。Ithadbeenenteredbymysolicitor，onanothermatterofbusiness，thepreviousday，butitstoodnextBELOWG-’s。G-’sname，then，hadclearlybeeninsertedunfairly，outofdueorder。ThewholethingwasmadecleartotheCommissionersoftheWasteLands，andIneednotsaythatIeffectedmypurchasewithoutdifficulty。Afewweeksafterwards，allowinghimforhishutandyard，IboughtG-outentirely。
IwillnowreturntotheRangitata。
Thereisalargeflatoneithersideofit，slopingverygentlydowntotheriver-bedproper，whichisfromonetotwomilesacross。Theoneflatbelongstome，andthatonthenorthbanktoanother。Theriverisveryeasilycrossed，asitflowsinagreatmanychannels;inafresh，therefore，itisstilloftenfordable。Wefounditexceedinglylow，astheprecedingcoldhadfrozenupthesources，whilstthenor’-westerthatfollowedwasofshortduration，andunaccompaniedwiththehottropicalrainwhichcausesthefreshes。Thenor’-westersarevulgarlysupposedtocausefreshessimplybymeltingthesnowuponthebackranges。We，however，andallwholivenearthegreatrange，andseethenor’-westerwhilestillamongthesnowyranges，knowforcertainthattheriverdoesnotrisemorethantwoorthreeinches，norloseitsbeautifulmilkybluecolour，unlessthewindbeaccompaniedwithrainuponthegreatrange——rainextendingsometimesaslowdownasthecommencementoftheplains。Theserainsarewarmandheavy，andmakethefeedbeautifullygreen。
Thenor’-westersareaveryremarkablefeatureintheclimateofthissettlement。Theyareexcessivelyviolent，sometimesshakingtheveryhouse;hot，dry，fromhavingalreadypouredouttheirmoisture，andenervatingliketheItaliansirocco。Thefactseemstobe，thatthenor’-westwindscomeheatedfromthetropics，andchargedwithmoisturefromtheocean，andthisisprecipitatedbytheice-fieldsofthemountainsindelugesofrain，chieflyonthewesternside，butoccasionallyextendingsomedistancetotheeast。Theyblowfromtwoorthreehourstoasmanydays，andiftheylastanylengthoftime，aregenerallysucceededbyasuddenchangetosou’-west——thecold，rainy，orsnowywind。Wecatchthenor’-westinfullforce，butareshelteredfromthesou’-west，which，withus，isaquietwind，accompaniedwithgentledrizzlingbutcoldrain，and，inthewinter，snow。
Thenor’-westerisfirstdescriedontheriver-bed。Throughthedoorofmyhut，fromwhichthesnowyrangeisvisible，atourearlybreakfast，I
seealovelysummer’smorning，breathlesslyquiet，andintenselyhot。
Suddenlyalittlecloudofdustisdrivendowntheriver-bedamileandahalfoff;itincreases，tillonewouldthinktheriverwasonfire，andthattheoppositemountainswereobscuredbyvolumesofsmoke。
Stillitiscalmwithus。Byandby，asthedayincreases，thewindgathersstrength，and，extendingbeyondtheriver-bed，givestheflatsoneithersideabenefit;thenitcatchesthedowns，andgenerallyblowshardtillfourorfiveo’clock，whenitcalmsdown，andisfollowedbyacoolandtranquilnight，delightfultoeverysense。If，however，thewinddoesnotcease，andithasbeenrainingupthegorges，therewillbeafresh;and，iftherainhascomedownanydistancefromthemainrange，itwillbeaheavyfresh;whileiftherehasbeenaclaportwoofthunder（averyrareoccurrence），itwillbeafreshinwhichtheriverwillnotbefordable。Thefloodscomeandgowithgreatrapidity。
Theriverwillbegintoriseaveryfewhoursaftertheraincommences，andwillgenerallyhavesubsidedtoitsformerlevelaboutforty-eighthoursaftertherainhasceased。
Aswegenerallycomeinforthetail-endofthenor’-westernrains，sowesometimes，thoughlessfrequently，getthatofthesou’-westwindsalso。Thesou’-westraincomestousuptheriverthroughthelowergorge，andisconsequentlysou’-eastrainwithus，owingtothedirectionofthevalley。Butitisalwayscalledsou’-westifitcomesfromthesouthwardatall。Infact，thereareonlythreerecognisedwinds，thenorth-west，thenorth-east，andthesouth-west，andIneverrecollectperceivingthewindtobeinanyotherquarter，savingfromlocalcauses。Thenorth-eastismostprevalentinsummer，andblowswithdelightfulfreshnessduringthegreaterpartoftheday，oftenrenderingthehottestweatherverypleasant。
Itiscurioustowatchthebattlebetweenthenorth-westandsouth-eastwind，asweoftenseeit。Forsomedays，perhaps，theuppergorgesmayhavebeenobscuredwithdarkandsurgingclouds，andthesnowyrangeshiddenfromview。Suddenlythemountainsatthelowerendofthevalleybecomebanked-upwithclouds，andthesandbeginstoblowuptheriver-
bedsomemilesbelow，whileitisstillblowingdownwithus。Thesoutherly"burster，"asitiscalled，graduallycreepsup，andatlastdrivestheotheroffthefield。Afewchillypuffs，thenagreatone，andinaminuteortwotheairbecomescold，evenintheheightofsummer。Indeed，Ihaveseensnowfallonthe12thofJanuary。Itwasnotmuch，buttheairwasascoldasinmid-winter。
Theforceofthesouth-westwindisherebrokenbythefrontranges，andontheseitoftenleavesitsrainorsnow，whilewearequiteexemptfromeither。Wefrequentlyhearbothofmorerainandofmoresnowontheplainsthanwehavehad，thoughmyhutisatanelevationof1840
feetabovethelevelofthesea。Ontheplains，itwilloftenblowforforty-eighthours，accompaniedbytorrentsofpelting，pitilessrain，andissometimessoviolent，thatthereishardlyanypossibilityofmakingheadwayagainstit。Sheepracebeforeitashardastheycangohelter-skelter，leavingtheirlambsbehindthemtoshiftforthemselves。
Thereisnoshelterontheplains，and，unlessstoppedbytheshepherds，theywilldrivefromonerivertothenext。Theshepherds，therefore，haveahardtimeofit，fortheymustbeouttillthewindgoesdown;
andtheworsetheweatherthemoreabsolutelynecessaryitisthattheyshouldbewiththesheep。Differentflocksnotunfrequentlyjoinduringthesegales，andthenuisancetoboththeownersisverygreat。
Inthebackcountry，sheepcanalwaysfindshelterinthegullies，orundertheleeofthemountain。
Wehaveherebeensingularlyfavouredwithregardtosnowthislastwinter，forwhereasIwasabsolutelydetainedbythesnowupontheplainsonmywayfromChristChurch，becausemyhorsewouldhavehadnothingtoeathadIgoneon，whenIarrivedathomeIfoundtheyhadbeenallastonishmentastowhatcouldpossiblyhavebeenkeepingmesolongaway。
Thenor’-westerssometimesbloweveninmid-winter，butaremostfrequentinspringandsummer，sometimescontinuingforafortnighttogether。
Duringanor’-wester，thesandontheriver-bedisblinding，fillingeyes，nose，andears，andstingingsharplyeveryexposedpart。Ilatelyhadthefelicityofgettingasmallmobofsheepintotheriver-bed（withaviewofcrossingthemontomyowncountry）whilstthiswindwasblowing。Therewereonlybetweensevenandeighthundred，andaswewerethree，withtwodogs，weexpectedtobeabletoputthemthroughourselves。Wedidsothroughthetwofirstconsiderablestreams，andthencouldnotgetthemtomoveonanyfarther。Astheypaused，Iwilltaketheopportunitytodigressanddescribetheprocessofputtingsheepacrossariver。
Thefirstthingistocarefullysecureaspotfittedforthepurpose，forwhichtheprincipalrequisitesare：first，thatthecurrentsetfortheoppositebank，sothatthesheepwillbecarriedtowardsit。Sheepcannotswimagainstastrongcurrent，andifthestreambeflowingevenlydownmid-channel，theywillbecarrieddownalongwaybeforetheyland;if，however，itsetsatalltowardsthesidefromwhichtheystarted，theywillprobablybelandedbythestreamonthatsameside。
Thereforethecurrentshouldflowtowardstheoppositebank。Secondly，theremustbeagoodlanding-placeforthesheep。Aspotmustnotbeselectedwherethecurrentsweepsunderneathahollowbankofgraveloraperpendicularwallofshingle;thebankontowhichthesheeparetolandmustshelve，nomatterhowsteeply，provideditdoesnotriseperpendicularlyoutofthewater。Thirdly，agoodplacemustbechosenforputtingthemin;thewatermustnotbecomedeepallatonce，orthesheepwon’tfaceit。Itmustbeshallowatthecommencement，sothattheymayhavegottoofartorecedebeforetheyfindtheirmistake。
Fourthly，thereshouldbenotutuintheimmediatevicinityofeithertheplacewherethesheepareputintotheriverorthatontowhichtheyaretocomeout;for，inspiteofyourmostfranticendeavours，youwillbeveryliabletogetsomesheeptuted。Theserequisitesbeingsecured，thedepthofthewateris，ofcourse，amatterofnomoment;
thenarrownessofthestreambeingapointoffargreaterimportance。
Theseriversaboundinplacescombiningeveryrequisite。
Thesheepbeingmobbeduptogethernearthespotwheretheyareintendedtoenterthewater，thebestplanistosplitoffasmallnumber，sayahundredorhundredandfifty（alargermobwouldbelesseasilymanaged），dogthem，barkatthemyourselffuriously，beatthem，spreadoutarmsandlegstopreventtheirescaping，andraisealltheunpleasantdinabouttheirearsthatyoupossiblycan。Inspiteofallthatyoucandotheywillverylikelybreakthroughyouandmakeback;