amafraidthenorthwindhasdesertedusfortheseason。”Havingenteredthelake,Iwentaboutamileandahalfaheadinmydiahbeeah,andanchoredforthenightinabroadandshallowportionofthewater,aforestbeingaboutamiledistantontheeastbank:thiswasagoodsignofterrafirma,buttherewasnodryspotuponwhichwecouldland。”TheriverwindstotheS。E。,andapparentlythenturnstothewest。Theeffluentthroughwhichwejoinedthislakeorrivermeetsitatrightangles,andtherivercontinuesitscoursetotheN。N。W。,asthoughitwerethemainchannelofafarmoreimportantstreamthanthehorribleditchbywhichwearrived。Theguide,however,assuresmethatitisblockedup,andlosesitselfinboundlessgrassandreeds。”IntheeveningIspiedahippopotamuswhichhadjustcomeoutofthehighgrassintotheopenriver。Itsnortedloudlyatthestrangesightofthehandsomely-painteddiahbeeah。Itooktheboat,anduponmynearapproachitwasfoolishenoughtoswimtowardsusangrily。AshotfromtheReillyNo。8,withoneofmyexplosiveshells,createdalivelydance,asthehippopotamusreceivedthemessageundertheeye。Rollingoverandover,withthelegsfrequentlyintheair,itraisedwavesthatrockedmylittleboatandmadeshootingdifficult;butuponacloseapproach,takinggoodcaretokeepoutofthereachofitsstruggles,I
gaveitaquietuswithahardenedsphericalballfromthesamerifle,whichpassedrightthroughthehead。Bysoundingwiththelongboat-hook,Ifoundthebodyatthebottominabouttenfeetofwater。Myexcellentcaptainofthediahbeeah,Faddul-Moolah,divedtothebottom,andsecuredthelegofthehippopotamusbyarope。Wetowedittothediahbeeah,fromthedeckofwhichmywifehadhadacapitalviewofthesport。Thisisafinefeastforthepeople。Myexplosiveshellisfrightfulinitseffects。”March29——Windstrongfromthesouth;thesteamerisnotyetoutofdifficulty。Mymenarebusycuttingupthehippopotamus。Isentofftheironboatwiththreequartersoftheanimaltothetroopsastern。Duringthenightacrocodiletookawayalltheoffalfromthesternofthediahbeeah。Theweatherismuchcooler,owingtothesouthwindandtheclearspaceinwhichwearenowanchored。”March30-Theriverisnowclearandunmistakable。Wetravelledabouttenmilesbypoling;thisisthebestday’sworkthatwehavemadesinceweenteredthischaoticregion。LieutenantBakercameonboardmydiahbeeah,havingbroughtupthesteamers。”Thecountrybegantolookmorehopeful。Aforestatafewmiles’
distanceonboththerightandleftbankoftheriverbetokeneddryland。Theriverflowedbetweenactualhonestbanks,whichalthoughonlyafewinchesabovethewaterwerepositiveboundaries。Theflatplainwascoveredwithlargewhiteant-hills,andthegroundwasevidentlyfirminthedistance,aswecoulddistinguishaherdofantelopes。”Aswewerequietlypolingthediahbeeahagainstthesluggishstream,weobservedwildbuffaloesthat,atadistanceofabout400yards,appearedtobeclosetothebankoftheriver。Iaccordinglystoppedthediahbeeah,and,accompaniedbyLieutenantBaker,Iapproachedtheminthesmallboat,rowedbytwomen。Afortunatebendoftheriver,andseveralclumpsofhighrushes,concealedtheboatuntilbyasuddenturnwecamewithinsixtyyardsoftwobullbuffaloes。HavingtoldMr。Bakertotakethefirstshot,hesentasphericalNo。8throughtheshoulderofthenearestbull,which,afterafewplunges,felldead。Theother,startledattheshot,dashedoff;atthesametimehereceivedashellfrommyrifleintheflank,andashotfromtheleft-handbarrelintherear。Withtheseshotshewentoffaboutthreehundredpaces,andlaydown,aswethought,todie。Iintendedtostalkhimfrombehindthewhiteant-hills,butmysailors,inintenseexcitement,rushedforward,supposingthathisbeefwastheirown,andalthoughbadlyhit,heagainroseandcanteredofftilllostinhighrushes。”March31-Asweproceeded,thebanksbecamedrier。Thetwosteamershadarrivedduringthenight,andthewholefleetiscomingupastern。Theriverisnowaboutfiftyyardswide,butIamgettingnervousaboutthedepth;thewaterisveryshallowinsomeofthebends,andIfeartherewillbegreatdifficultyingettingthroughwiththesteamersandheavyvessels。Mydiahbeeah,whichisofiron,althoughroomy,isexceedinglylight,andonlyrequirestwofeetthreeinchesofwater。Wehavebeenfifty-onedaysfromKhartoum。NeverhaveIknownsomiserableavoyage。
Windfreshfromthesouth。”
CHAPTERIII
THERETREAT”April1——Allthevesselsarestuckfastforwantofwater!Thisisterrible。Iwentoninadvancewithmydiahbeeah,accompaniedbyMr。
Baker,foraboutthreemilestoexplore。Throughoutthisdistancethegreatestdepthwasaboutfourfeet,andtheaveragewasunderthreefeet。Atlengththediahbeeah,whichdrewonlytwofeetthreeinches,wasfastaground!Thiswasatapointwheretworaisedmounds,ordubbas,wereonoppositesidesoftheriver。Ileftthevessel,andwithMr。Baker,Iexploredintherowingboatforabouttwomilesinadvance。
Afterthefirstmile,theboatgroundedinaboutsixinchesofwateruponfirmsand。Theriver,afterhavingdeepenedforashortspace,wassuddenlydividedintothreeseparatechannels,allofwhichweretooshallowforthepassageofthediahbeeah,andtwowereeventooshallowtoadmitthesmallboat。Theboatmenjumpedout,andwehauledheruptheshallowsuntilwereachedthemainstream,abovethethreechannels,whichranfromtheS。S。E。,buthavingnogreatermeandepththanabouttwofeetsixinches。”Wecontinuedforsomedistanceupthestreamwiththesameunfortunateresults。Thebanks,althoughfloodedduringthewetseason,werenowdry,andaforestwasaboutamiledistant。Havinglefttheboatandascendedawhiteant-hill,abouteightfeethigh,inordertotakeaviewofthecountry,Iobservedaherdofverybeautifulantelopes,ofakindthatwerequiteunknowntome。”Bycarefulstalkingontheflatplainfromoneant-hilltoanother,I
obtainedafairshotatabout140yards,andkilled。Bothmaleandfemalehavehorns,thereforeIfounditdifficulttodistinguishthesexatthatdistance。Iwasdelightedwithmyprize;itwasafemale,weighing,Ishouldestimate,abouttwentystone,clean。Thehidewasadeepreddishyellow,withblackshouldersandlegs,alsoblackfromthehindquartersdownthehindlegs。Itbelongedtothespecieshippotragus,andhadhornsthatcurvedbackwards,somethingsimilartothehippotragusniger,butmuchshorter。[*]
[*Footnote:VideAppendix。Thisantelope,whichIconsideredtobeanewspecies,provedtobetheDamalisSenegalensisofWesternAfrica。]”Wesooncutitintoquarters,andcarriedittotheboat。Thislittlesuccessinsporthadcheeredmeforthemoment;butthehappyexcitementquicklypassedaway,andwereturnedtothediahbeeahquitedisheartened。Itissimplyimpossibletocontinuethevoyage,asthereisnomeansoffloatingthevessels。”To-morrowIshallexplorethechannelNo。3,whichrunsfromtheW。S。W。”April2——Iexploredthewestchannel。Thisisverynarrow,andovergrownwithgrass。Afteraboutamilewearrivedatashallowplaceonlytwofeetdeep。Thewholeriverisabsolutelyimpracticableatthisseason。Duringtherains,andeventotheendofDecember,whentheriverisfull,thevesselscouldpass,butatnoothertime。Allmylabourhasbeenuseless,butitwouldbeutterlyabsurdtoattemptafurtheradvance。IhavethereforedeterminedtoreturnatoncetotheShillookcountry,andestablishastation。Mr。Higginbothamandpartywillthenunitewithus,andIwillcollecttheentireforcefromKhartoum,andstartwiththeexpeditioncompleteintheendofNovember。
AlthoughIamgrievouslydisappointed,Iamconvincedthatthisisthewisestcourse。Duringtherainyseasonthetroopsshallcultivatecorn,andIshallexploretheoldWhiteNileinasteamer,andendeavourtodiscoveranavigablechannelviatheoriginalroutebytheBahrGazal。”Iwasobligedwithaheavyhearttogivethesadordertoturnback;at3p。m。wearrivedattheassembledfleet。”Isummonedalltheofficers,andinthepresenceofRaoufBeyI
explainedthenecessity。Thevesselsimmediatelycommencedthereturnvoyage,alltheofficersandmenbeingdelightedattheideaofaretreatwhichtheyimaginedwouldtakethemtoKhartoum,andterminatetheexpedition;thusIhadlittlesympathy——However,Ideterminedtomakearrangementsforthefollowingseasonthatwouldenablemetocutthrougheverydifficulty。Ikepttheseintentionstomyself,oronlysharedthemwithmywifeandLieutenantBaker。”April3——Washeddecksearly,andsentoffthreesoldiers,thusreducingtheescortonthediahbeeahtosevenmen。”Theentirefleetwasinfullretreatwithwindandstreaminfavour。I
wouldnotpermitthediahbeeahthathadalwaysledtheadvancetoaccompanythemintheretreat;thereforeIallowedthemtopushonahead。”Ashowerofrainfellto-day;alsoyesterday。”Afewminutesafterstarting,boththesteamersstuckfast。AsIwaswalkingthepoopofthediahbeeah,Inoticedwiththetelescopeanantelopestandingonthesummitofanant-hillaboutamileandaquarterdistant。Thereisnochangesodelightfulasalittlesportifyouareinlowspirits;thus,takingtherifle,Iroweduptheriverforabouthalfamileinthesmallboat,andthenlanding,Iobtainedtherightwind。Itwasexceedinglydifficulttoapproachgameintheseextensivetreelessflats,anditwouldhavebeenquiteimpossible,haditnotbeenfortheinnumerablehillsofthewhiteants;thesearethepeculiarfeaturesoftheseswampycountries,andtheintelligenceoftheinsectsdirectstheirarchitecturetoaheightfarabovethelevelofthehighestfloods。Theearthusedintheirconstructionisthesubsoil,broughtupfromaconsiderabledepth,astheant-hillsareyellow,whilethesurfacesoilisblack。Theearthisfirstswallowedbytheinsectandthusitbecomesmixedwithsomealbuminousmatterwhichconvertsitintoacementthatresiststheactionofrain。Thesehillsweregenerallyabouteightfeethighintheswampydistricts,butIhavefrequentlyseenthemabovetenfeet。Theantelopesmakeuseofsuchant-hillsaswatchtowers,fromwhichloftypositiontheycanobserveanenemyatagreatdistance。Itisthecustomofseveralvarietiestoplacesentrieswhiletheherdisgrazing,anduponthisoccasion,althoughthesentrywasalonevisible,Ifeltsurethattheherdwassomewhereinhisneighbourhood。Ihavenoticedthatthesentriesaregenerallybulls。OnthisoccasionIresolved,ifpossible,tostalkthewatchman。Iwasshootingwithaveryaccurateexpressrifle,aNo。70
boreofPurdey’s,belongingtomyfriend,SirEdwardKerrison,whohadkindlylentittomeasafavouriteweaponwhenIleftEngland。Thegrasswasverylow,andquitegreen,asithadbeenfiredbythewanderingnativessometimesince;thus,inplacestherewerepatchesofthetallwitheredherbagethathadbeenonlypartiallyconsumedbythefirewhileunripe:thesepatcheswereanassistanceinstalking。
第9章